What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

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When hunting, fishing and hiking, it is vital to quickly warm up and prepare food in the event of an acute shortage of fuel; perhaps - without leaving the tent. At the dacha - in the summer, cook dinner or boil water without wasting gas, without starting a house stove or building an outdoor summer stove. The choice of one or another portable compact heating and cooking device or campfire equipment is another matter. But in any case, a device known as a splinter or a Bond stove will help out: such a stove on waste wood fuel can be built from improvised materials, using only a knife, it is omnivorous and in some, the most difficult cases (see below) will be able to regularly perform its function in places where wood fuel is not and cannot be.

A country stove, a splinter, folded weighing up to 1.5-2 kg and a volume of less than 2 cubic meters in it. dm allows you to cook soup for the family; marching for the preparation of one portion is three times easier and folded takes 0.2-0.3 cubic meters. dm. The cost of high-quality materials for durable wood chips is unlikely to require more than 300 rubles, and you can almost always get by with free helpers. For reference: a more or less reliable all-weather gas burner will cost from 1000 rubles; to it you will need to buy a 3 liter cylinder. All this economy will pull (with a filled cylinder) 4-5 kg ​​and will take the same cubic meter. dm.

A bit of history

The splinter oven, apparently, was invented by Russian gold diggers in Chukotka, when American canned food began to arrive there through Alaska (then still Russian). After the transfer of Alaska to the ownership of the United States, many of our compatriots remained there; the name of the protagonist of one of Jack London's famous stories of the Alaskan cycle is Souvarine. To the American prospectors - the pioneers of the Klondike, the splinter was known as the Russian Can Stove (Russian can stove).

The properties of the wood chip as a means of survival were fully appreciated by the Stalinist convicts. The officers of the NKVD also learned about the splinter from them. The pre-war Scout Survival Manuals contain instructions on how to make a wood chip. She was nicknamed the Bond stove thanks to the scriptwriter of one of the Bond episodes - an avid hunter, fisherman and a lone tourist. The scriptwriter and the actor who played agent 007 in that episode need to say a tremendous thank you in no uncertain terms. Einstein once said: “If you have an apple and I have an apple, and we exchange them, then each of us will have an apple. And if you have an idea and I have an idea, and we share them, then each of us will have two ideas. " The idea of ​​Russian Can Stove has already saved the lives of dozens of people during the exploration of the Klondike; by now, their number throughout the world is probably measured in hundreds, if not thousands.

Buy or do?

This article describes how to make a wood chip with your own hands. There are many types of ready-made camping wood chips on sale, but the point is not even clearly overpriced; in monetary terms, they are generally acceptable. The point is that marketing-oriented “enhancements” to many of the factory chips actually rob them of their main strengths: simplicity, reliability and versatility(see below, about turbo splits). That's why it is better to make a wood chip stove with your own hands.

Combustion types

The simplest splinter is actually a basket brazier on a fiery burning. Make one from purchased semi-finished products for 150-200 rubles. can be at home in half an hour (see below), but a splinter on the flame will be very voracious. In nature, it will be necessary to prepare a site for it, as for a fire: coals from the side holes can be shot quite far. In terms of heating technology, a fiery wood chip has one advantage over a fire: the fuel load does not spread, so you can use hard burning - cones, mountain and desert bushes.

A good wood chip stove uses pyrolysis and afterburning of exhaust gases to one degree or another ( wood gas, wood gas); there are also purely pyrolysis, especially economical wood chips, see below about turbo ovens. Efficiency combined with even greater omnivorousness brings pyrolysis chips to the fore in the event of a fuel shortage. V emergency situations a splinter on sluggish, but very long and extremely economical surface burning, see at the end, can literally be salutary.

For example

The simplest flaming chip can be built from ORDNING cutlery dryers sold in Ikea, trade item 300.118.32, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. The advantage of this workpiece is the material, rather thick food grade stainless steel, so the "Ikeevskaya" splinter will serve for a long time. However, it will only fit for a morning mug of tea or soup from a bag, so the blank needs to be supplemented with a bolt burner (pos. 4): ORDNING diameter is 130 mm, which is a bit too much for a mug.

Already with the soup on the Ikeevsky chipboard, problems arise: one load of even pine or birch chips is not enough, so you have to cut out a window for additional loading, pos. 3. It is inconvenient to shove small chips into it, especially with numb hands in the cold. The Ikeevskaya chipboard is not very stable, and an awkward beginner will almost certainly knock it over when refueling.

Finally, you can run the Ikeevskaya woodchip only on the street, but then you need legs. No matter how you do them (pos. 5 and 6), in a backpack they cling to something and tear something. In general, it will be of use from the Ikeevskaya wood chip if you carry it in the trunk on a fishing trip alone for or in the country to quickly warm up small portions of food.

Video: an example of making wood chips from an ikeevsky dryer

With pyrolysis

Turbo - not turbo?

"Turbo" is a catchy slogan, and manufacturers and traders underneath it have let the supercharged wood chips go to the masses; they are repeated by many amateurs, see fig. on right. But on a hike, it is enough to be a novice companion to understand: batteries for a boost motor are the stove's volatility and completely unnecessary expenses. Also, a micromotor with a fan in field conditions is prone to breakdowns, and the pressurization pipe sticks out and interferes with the proper packing of the backpack. However, hunters, fishermen and tourists up to the coolest pros walking in the "seven" (the route of the highest, 7th, category of difficulty) should not dump the turbo chips from the account.

In fact, a turbo shredder is a pyrolysis camp stove, the design of which is shown in Fig. below the list; other sizes can be taken proportionally. Fuel is charged up to the lower edge of the secondary air holes; ignition - from above. The American tourists brought the splinter to such a state. It must be said that meticulous attention to detail is the strongest aspect of American technical culture during its heyday; now, alas, there are clear signs of decline. For a single trip, the pyrolysis chip stove is too big, but if a group is walking, then it shows undoubted advantages:

• On a load of 2-3 dozen pine cones, you can cook lunch for 2-3 people.
• Zone high temperatures concentrates along the axis of the stove (where there is a flame in the figure), therefore, a durable pyrolysis chip can be made from cans of canned food or thin galvanized.
• It can also operate on dry gas hydrate fuel (dry alcohol).
• It can be used as a heating system without alteration in the surface combustion mode, see at the end.
• It is enough to put the overturned burning stove immediately level, so that it continues to work.
• The scattering of sparks and embers is excluded, and the bottom heats up to less than 80 degrees, so launching in a tent is possible.

The latter case is, of course, extraordinary. It is necessary to take precautions so as not to burn out, and in no case climb into the sleeping bags until the stove is completely burnt out and is not emptied of ash. In addition, if the tent is made of synthetic materials, you need to put some kind of tarpaulin or something similar under the stove, otherwise the bottom of the tent in that place will become brittle.

Partial pyrolysis

American interest in complete pyrolysis in field ovens is largely attributable to local environmental laws; however, outside the zone of its action there are tourists there for the weekend and treat nature in a terrifyingly ugly manner. So - you can collect cones, but you cannot take from a tree. Raise the dry forest from the ground - no thicker than a certain size. For a broken off live branch in some states and Canada, you can go to jail. And he broke it - in the wildest wilderness, suddenly, out of nowhere, an inspector appears with an M14 rifle, and then, as in tsarist Russia: once it came to the protocol, the matter was tobacco.

In the Russian Federation, there are no draconian restrictions on the use of natural resources, so domestic amateurs prefer to make rather effective, but much simpler structural chips with partial pyrolysis and variable combustion. At first, such a stove burns like a fiery one. As the light fractions of the fuel burn out and its loading subsides, the role of pyrolysis with afterburning from secondary air becomes more and more important, and coals burn out to ash during pyrolysis. In terms of efficiency, camp stoves with a variable combustion mode are somewhat inferior to purely pyrolysis ones, but temperature regime they are almost as smooth and cooking takes almost the same amount of time. All the samples considered below (except for the emergency ones at the end) work exactly according to this principle.

Under the bowler hat

Most of all, tourists, hunters and single fishermen use wood chips. A typical set of their equipment also includes an army bowler hat, so a splinter for a bowler hat is quite popular. Unfortunately, the authors of the most advanced designs in the search for heat engineering, if they know something, they successfully ignore this information. There are not many well-developed designs; one of them is shown in fig. Legs and burner made of fragments of a hacksaw for metal (in the middle in the top row) in plain sight for clarity; normally they fit into the pot.

Product material - tin can or thin galvanized. The bottom pattern is drawn around the lid of the pot: there is a flange on it, in the stowed position the pot enters the stove with a minimum gap and no extra volume is required for laying. Additional holes in the bottom for the installation mustache of the legs are shown with red arrows.

Special bowler hat

Once upon a time, tourist mini-bowlers were sold in the Soviet "Sport goods". Those who had served their time in the communications troops as cablemen or at the low-channel radio relay stations R-405, R-405, etc., who often went to the points, were surprised to recognize in them the "secret" pots for cooking from high-calorie concentrates that were used in their control rooms. Only in the army was a stove for dry alcohol and small-scale fuel attached to the special pot, i.e. splinter. In the Gorbachev era, its description was published by MK (declassified?); a drawing of a splinter for a tourist pot, see fig. The air inflow for the afterburning of wood gas is fully provided by the gaps between the knitting needles with a diameter of 2 and 4 mm holes for them. The advantage of this wood chip is very quick cooking food and absolute windproofness. No laws of heating technology prevent you from making the same stove under an ordinary army kettle.

Note: best material on the stove-splinter for the pot - stainless steel from the old tank washing machine... It is rather difficult to process it, but the stove will turn out to be light, durable, easy to clean and eternal. It will also become a little more economical (stainless steel conducts heat worse than structural steel) and will be less overgrown with carbon deposits.

Foldable

The next most popular wood chip oven is a camping and country folding folding stove. Such chips are assembled into a working configuration from flat parts, folded into a compact package. It is placed in a cooking utensil or in a special pocket inside the backpack so that the corners do not break anything. Due to the compactness of the folded form, the parts of the folding chips can be made from ordinary structural steel with a thickness of 1-2 mm. The stacking weight in the stowed position then increases to 0.8-1.2 kg, but the stove turns out to be quite durable without the use of special steels. In addition, the same approach allows you to make an oversized dacha woodchip, on which you can cook lunch for everyone in the boiler or boil a bucket of water.

Mini hiking

The drawings of the parts from which the folding mini-shredder is assembled are given in Fig. above. The build process is straightforward:

• wing a Det. 4 is inserted into the cutout a 'Det. 2;
• hooks b of Part 1 are inserted into the cutouts b ’Det. 2;
• Parts 1 are slightly parted to the sides and upset down to the stop;
• Det. 4 rises and Part 1 is brought together so that its wings c 'enter the cutouts c of Part 1;
• the stove is fixed in the assembled state by putting Det 3 with its grooves d 'on the hooks d of Details 1.

Folding country house

A country folding splinter must, firstly, withstand a significant load. Secondly, with its increased size, it becomes difficult to provide a variable combustion mode by simply drilling holes in the sidewalls. Thirdly, a summer cottage splinter should make it possible to put dishes of different sizes on it, and at the same time, the requirements for maximum compactness when folded and minimum weight are not necessary for it. In fig. given the patterns of the sidewalls of a summer cottage wood chip oven that satisfies these conditions; side of a square scale grid- from 10 to 50 mm, depending on the purpose of the furnace and the availability of material.

Material - structural steel with a thickness of 1.5-2.5 mm. The blades of the sidewalls filled with red, forming a burner, are bent inward at angles of 45 degrees after cutting the blanks. This ensures, firstly, the possibility of placing pots of various sizes on the burner. Second, together with the shaped cutouts at the top, the dimensions and configuration of the bottom of the installed vessel, the inflow of secondary air is regulated, i.e. This stove is self-adjusting for cooking utensils. Put a frying pan or a small saucepan - it will burn longer, but the heat will be weaker. Under a large cauldron with a rounded bottom it is stronger, under a bucket it is even stronger, and under boiled water it will “scorch” at its maximum.

Note: in order for this oven to be as stable as possible under heavy dishes, the assembly grooves in the sidewalls (filled in green in the figure) must be made exactly as wide as the thickness of the sheet of the metal used.

About pyramidal chips

Sometimes amateur designers, in order to achieve a more complete combustion of fuel, make folding chips of a pyramidal shape. Indeed, in such furnaces, the proportion of pyrolysis in the heat release increases. But the additional heat is easily lost, which is clearly seen in Fig. on right. The stove is not a cooling tower after all.

Emergency

Finally, let's see how to make a splinter in an emergency from scrap materials. On pos. 1-3 fig. the same Russian Can Stove, which survived unchanged to the Bond stove. Such a wood chip is mainly heating: the combustion in it is quiet, superficial. A splinter on surface burning produces a low flame, but a lot of soft heat. When starting up in a tent, you can use a metal bowl as a pallet, in which small stones are thrown approx. the same size. Not sand, you need a flow of air! It is also necessary to put something under the bowl that is not self-igniting and does not conduct heat well: the bottom of the stove, when the load burns out, heats up to 300-400 degrees, and the bottom of the bowl through pebbles 2-3 cm across to 140-160 degrees.

Incidentally, the best fuel loading for a surface burning emergency chip is a tightly tucked bale. toilet paper, also tightly stuffed medical cotton wool, etc. loose fuel, in which there is more cellulose and less of something else. To ignite, you need 30-100 ml of alcohol or any other flammable liquid, strong alcohol (vodka, cognac, local moonshine) or vegetable oil... Loading fuel with a pencil, writing pen or sharpened stick is pierced along the axis to the bottom, poured over with kindling and set on fire. It burns for a long time, without soot, it gives a lot of heat.

If among the empty cans there is a pair that fit into one another, then from the cans it is possible to quickly collect a more economical and suitable for making tea or soup in a mug, a splinter with a mixed combustion mode, pos. 4 and 5. The holes, of course, do not have to be so neat, they can simply be punched with a knife. If the stove is loaded with loose fuel, holes in the inner can must be pierced from the inside so that burrs do not interfere with the loading. Also in the shell (cylindrical sidewall) of the inner can of holes, 1-3 rows are punched at the top. The branch fuel is loaded up to the bottom edge of the holes top row, pos. 5. These, of course, are not all options for stoves-shredders in case of emergency; other quite effective designs of camp stoves from cans are also possible, see eg. video:

Video: a splinter from a tin can

The introduction of new rules and laws on fire safety in the forests, as well as the prohibition on making an open fire in any place that was not equipped for this purpose, pushed me to the idea of ​​how to satisfy my needs without breaking the law. The fine for this administrative offense is probably quite affordable. Personally, I have not undergone this offensive and unpleasant procedure, and in order to avoid this in the future, I designed an oven (or a kerosene stove, if you like!) For heating and cooking food in a pot. You could, of course, buy a gas kerosene stove, but it is quite expensive. And why buy it if you have hands and a head! This oven turned out to be small and light. Fits freely in a backpack.

It will take

• Tin can for three liters.
• A small piece of metal, approximately 10 × 10 cm. 1 mm thick.
• Grinder.
• Bolts and nuts from a metal constructor (or similar, of the same size).
• Marker.
• Small hinge loop.
• Wrench and screwdriver for the size of nuts and bolts.
• Drill.
• Drills 3 mm. and 10 mm.

Making a primus stove

I immediately thought about a lid for it. Even if it is not a frying pan, at least it will be possible to cover the contents of the pot from dust and debris. I chose options for a long time, how to make a lid on a pot and stopped at the simplest - from another cover!)))

I just had an aluminum lid from a small saucepan lying around. Naturally, it is larger in diameter than a liter mug, so I had to cut off the excess pores in the circle. Food grade aluminum is quite soft, you can literally wrinkle it with your hands and cut it quite easily.

I put the lid on my bowler hat and traced it around with a pencil. Then he cut it off with scissors for metal. I filed the edges of the lid so that they did not protrude beyond the side of the pot. Otherwise, the bow will interfere with covering the pot with a lid.

The factory lid has a small groove along the edge that prevents it from sliding to the side. Since I do not know how to mint, and I am not sure that it is possible to work with aluminum of this thickness, I had to invent another way to keep the lid on the pot. I couldn't think of anything better how to simply make small cuts on three sides of the lid and bend the resulting petals inside the pot. Now they rest against the wall of the pot from the inside and the lid does not come off.

The shop lid had a black plastic handle. I decided to remove it to make it a little more compact. I simply drilled the rivet on which it was held and broke off the handle. I decided to make a new one in the form of a folding wire bracket.

Drilled holes for rivets in the cover and in the mounting plate.

Since there is enough left in the lid big hole from the old handle, I made another plate that will cover it from the back side.

The foldable handle on the lid must be locked in an upright position. Otherwise, it will be difficult to remove the hot lid from the boiling pot.

Since the metal of the bicycle spoke is resilient enough, the handle itself will act as a spring. You just need to bend it a little more than the size of the mounting plate needs. And at the edges of the plate itself, I made three small cuts with a file. One - to fix the vertical position of the handle, and two on the sides - for the horizontal position.

It remains only to put everything together and rivet. I used pieces of aluminum wire for the rivets. You can, of course, use a modern rivet, but "we are not looking for easy ways")))

The resulting lid weighs 33 grams. The handle holds firmly in both upright and folded positions.

After trying on the bowler hat, it turned out that its bow still slightly interferes with covering it with a lid. Therefore, I had to make another, longer bow and bend it a little differently, and pierce the edges with a file on the lid itself.

Yes, I also drilled a few holes along the edge. Well, sort of, so that you can see: steam is coming, so the water is boiling. Maybe they don't need them, but let them be)))

If the bracket handle gets very hot, maybe I will glue pieces of cork on it.

As I expected, the handle of the lid heats up so much that it cannot be gripped with bare hands. So I want to try the cork handle option.

If you come across an old thermos with an aluminum or stainless steel case, do not rush to scrapped it. Two hours will be enough for a skilled craftsman to make an original and comfortable bowler hat.

For work, you will need a minimum of tools and materials that everyone has:
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- file;
- hacksaw for metal;
- drill;
- a piece of wire or an electrode made of of stainless steel, a few rivets, a newspaper or a sheet of drawing paper, a marker or some paint, thread.

Having carefully disassembled the structure, you can proceed to the first and, perhaps, the most important operation - marking. A sheet of paper tightly wrapped without distortions at the desired height will help to get a straight and clearly visible line for cutting on a cylindrical surface. Having fixed it from unrolling with a piece of adhesive tape, it is enough to walk along the edge with a marker or a brush so that after removal there is a clearly distinguishable border.

The bottom part cut off from the body with a hacksaw or grinder is the main workpiece, and the eyes are cut from the top. Due to the same curvature and material, a snug fit and the absence of galvanic effects that contribute to corrosion are ensured, but they can, of course, be made from scraps of galvanized sheet. Sharp edges of the lugs and the main workpiece are dulled by a file or a piece abrasive wheel manually.

It is undesirable to drill a canopy - it is better, in order to avoid deformations, to support the bottom part with the inner surface on the corner of a table or workbench, placing a piece of timber. The diameter of the drill must be selected so that the rivets fit tightly into the holes.

Step three: making the handle and assembling

A stainless steel handle curved on a pipe or log is inserted into the holes and the edges are bent with pliers. Those who like to add a design twist to the product can experiment with its shape and size.

Conclusion

If you don't want to mess with rivets, there is an option to cut out a solid body with lugs - this will slightly complicate sawing, but will eliminate the need to repeatedly drill holes in a stainless steel that is difficult to give in to this operation.

Actually, the pot from the thermos is already ready - it's time to think about outdoor recreation with friends, where you can trump with your skillful hands!