What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

What is forgetting the keys - probably everyone knows, even the most organized and responsible person. Without keys, you can not get into your own country house, into the garage, which is often not too close to the house, into the study, even into your own apartment, if you leave and return earlier than other family members. And how sometimes it drains your nerves when you are very late, but you cannot leave the house just for the reason that a bunch of keys have disappeared somewhere!

The time has come to get rid of these problems and finally do wall key holder- a very convenient and extremely practical thing, which, moreover, can look original in the interior of the room. Of course, you can buy a ready-made thing, however, if you are reading these lines, then this option is not suitable for you and it is time to take up the tools. In this case, we will try to help with ideas. Moreover, it is always more pleasant to use a good-quality thing made with your own hands.

Key holders are usually pocket and external - wall, wardrobe and table. The first variety is leather or from another suitable material a case like a regular wallet or glasses case, but its purpose is to conveniently store keys in one place, while protecting nearby fragile things from scratches and other damage. The keys themselves are securely attached to the case with metal carabiners.

External key holders are arranged according to the general principle and differ, by and large, only by their location - a separate element on the wall, using the surfaces of corridor furniture, in a tabletop design. Common to all of them are hooks or others, alternative views fasteners located localized on a special, open or in the form of a locker, surface.

Often, the housekeeper, through the efforts of the craftsmen, turns into common place storage of all frequently lost items - in addition to keys, these can be glasses, lighters, flash drives, mobile phones, etc. In this case, in addition to standard hooks, the housekeeper acquires special shelves, pockets, cells, etc., as fantasy and personal preferences tell home master.

Below are illustrations of finished products: the procedure, materials and tools, design, as well as the size and type of the key holder itself, depend only on your personal skills, abilities and tastes - in any case, it is much more interesting to draw, draw with dimensions and choose the fastening methods yourself and finishing parts than to assemble according to drawings and other people's instructions. We hope you find a suitable one from a variety of options, or get inspired to create an original thing.

1. Frame made of wood, 13x18 cm or more. The key holder in the photo is 17x22 cm.The width of the baguette profile itself should be at least 2.5-3 cm.). If we take a plastic frame, then the width of the baguette must be at least 3 cm and it cannot be overloaded with keys too much. It is best if the frame has its own suspension on the d-rings, and not the usual photo back. If they are not there, then you can buy them at a baguette workshop or some hobby stores. 2. A beautiful napkin or a picture with the desired image, or a ready-made decoupage krata. 3. A standard set of materials for decoupage - glue, white primer, acrylic varnish, brush. 4. Key hooks (see the photo for an option - half-ring screws, buttons or classic hooks) - they can be purchased in hardware stores5. Knife, ruler, simple pencil, screwdriver, awl or drill, several screws 3.5x16 cm.

Subsequence

The master class consists of two stages - performing decoupage and assembling a key holder. I start with decoupage. 1. I disassemble the frame, take out the backdrop from it and pass it with white soil in 2 layers. Waiting to dry or blow-dry. 2. I glue the selected fragment of the decoupage card on the glue. 3. After drying, I varnish in 2 layers. I wait again for it to dry, then insert it into the frame. All in all, nothing complicated. Now the master class is approaching the most interesting stage with different options - attaching hooks. 4. If the frame is wooden, then choose directly on it where the hooks will be screwed and outline holes for self-tapping screws with an awl or pencil, we drill and fasten the hooks. That's all. Worse if the frame is plastic. Then either at our own peril and risk we attach hooks on the sides of the baguette itself, or we make a more reliable structure, as in the example in the photo. To do this, we assemble a wooden stretcher inside. You can either order it ready-made in a baguette workshop, or assemble it yourself from a bar 2-3 cm wide. and attach to the frame using mounting tape. To show how all this can be done, I completed my master class just from a plastic frame. How to do this is shown in detail in the photo of the back side. If you are reluctant to tinker with the stretcher, then you can go the other way - at the very beginning of the work, remove the backdrop from the frame, measure the ruler and cut out exactly the same piece of plywood or chipboard on which you decoupage, and then insert it into the frame. And attach the hooks directly to the plywood. 5. I hang it on the wall for 2 self-tapping screws, on which I put on the D-rings of the frame. We do not hang on a rope or cable, it will dangle and the keys will start to fall. The master class is over. The housekeeper is ready!

This master class shows, perhaps, the easiest and most budgetary way to make a housekeeper with your own hands. It is simple in materials, manufacturing techniques and does not require much time.

Other ideas for making a key holder

There are many more different ways and ideas for making such a wonderful interior gift - from embroidery, with a photo, comic and others. I will share my ideas with you.

With embroidery

One of the coziest and warmest options is making a key holder with embroidery. The photo shows three examples of such solutions, moreover, each embroidery is framed not just in a frame, but in the form of an opening box, inside which hooks are attached. The box inside can be painted over with acrylic paint or sheathed with velvet mat. It will take a long time to make a gift, but the result will be worth it! An easier way is to arrange the embroidery in a frame and attach the hooks directly to the baguette, as in the following photo. Another idea with embroidery for a wedding or housewarming is to make a metric for the newlyweds or newcomers on the embroidery with their names and the date of an important event. Such a gift immediately becomes personal and even more expensive for its addressee.

With photo

If there is no time for embroidery, then why not insert a finished photo into a frame? Then the hooks can be simply screwed onto the baguette, as our master class tells. The idea is simple to implement, but it will turn out to preserve the personality of the gift, especially if, instead of a simple photo, you make a small photo collage and decorate it using the digital scraping technique.

With humor

The wall key holder can be decorated in a comic style. Here is a short master class: take out the backdrop from the finished frame, sew several items onto it - a banknote, vintage keys or any other suitable items. At the bottom, attach the sign printed on the printer "in case of urgent need to break the glass!", Then put it all back into a frame under the glass.

From the branch

A rather extravagant option for fans of eco-style can be made from a thick branch. The tree will have to be thoroughly dried and soaked through with furniture varnishes, then attach the hooks and get this pretty non-standard solution for the interior.

From a ready-made base

The easiest option is to make a housekeeper from a ready-made decoupage base, which are sold in hobby stores. Plywood blank can be made in any shape, for example, in the form of a house. You will have to decorate it using decoupage technique.

From old furniture

Another mega-creative option is to make a housekeeper out of an old cabinet door. How to implement it, the following video master class tells in detail:

Table-type key holders

If your hallway has bedside tables or shelves, then you can easily place a table-type key holder on them. If it turned out to be problematic to purchase a finished product, then you can take an ordinary vase or box with which it will be convenient to take keys. There are also a lot of finished products of this plan, it is enough to visit the shops.

Wall-mounted key holders

The simplest and most popular option for housekeepers is wall models... They represent a rigid base on which there are several hooks. This option is often used by home craftsmen, just connect your imagination, and your apartment is decorated with an original piece of furniture.

Such housekeepers can be different types and forms. Therefore, when choosing them, you need to focus on the design of your interior.

The key holder should not stand out in the interior, it is better if it becomes its original addition and a convenient household item.

Key holders within

Such housekeepers look very aesthetically pleasing in any apartments or houses. Their background can even be a photograph, not to mention a beautiful landscape. The only thing to consider is that the picture or photo can get scratched over time, so they need to be protected with something.

If, instead of a picture, you install a stiffer base, and fix several hooks on it, then you will get an excellent key holder design. You can also use another option, when the key hooks are attached directly to the frame, and a beautiful picture is placed inside. But this requires a frame made of a more durable material, a cast or overhead strip will not withstand such an onslaught.

Housekeeper locker

This is another option for a wall-mounted key holder. If you are not a supporter of the fact that the keys are freely available to everyone, then you can try to find a more secluded place for them. A key holder in the form of a locker will perfectly cope with this task. If you are a supporter of hand-made products, then so much the better, because there are a lot of ideas for embodiment.

The locker can be such that not only keys can fit in it, but also other items that are in frequent use. The cabinet itself is adorned with beautiful paintings, photographs or decorative elements. A watch can be located on the front.

The next advantage of this option is the ability to install a secret lock on the cabinet. Of course, this is already an overkill, but for some it is a way out.

Housekeeper houses

This version of the key holder is a kind of locker model. And although the model is somewhat rustic, its roof gives it a special charm, which is why the product is very popular.

This design has several advantages. For example, compact dimensions, agree that the cabinet on the wall takes up a lot of space. But most importantly, the housekeeper fits perfectly into any interior, especially since when making it at home, you can use fragments and details for decorating it, which were used during the renovation of the hallway.

Organizer key holder

Organizers have become popular not so long ago, but now they make our life easier and more planned. Oddly enough, housekeepers can also have this function.

This model will be appreciated by all family members, in addition to the fact that the keys will be in a permanent place, and other useful items of reminders, receipts or notes about upcoming purchases can be placed in it.

If you wish, you can also place a reminder board there, on which you can write something and then erase it. Several shelves or pockets are useful for storing other items, glasses, or writing pens.

Decorative key holders

All hand-made models can be attributed to decorative key holders. Agree that it is very difficult to repeat a purchased product according to its design, and why, but making something according to your own design will be much more interesting. Especially if a person's imagination works well and has a sense of proportion.

Here are some examples of wild fantasy:

How to make a housekeeper from a photo frame

If, after reading our article, you fired up the idea of making a housekeeper with your own hands, but nothing suitable was found at hand, except for a photo frame, then do not despair, and feel free to get to work, this is exactly the material that you need.

What you need to prepare for work besides the photo frame:

several hooks;
glue;
2 tassels;
dye.

The execution of work can be divided into several stages:

First of all, you need to choose the color of the key holder. To do this, compare the design of your interior with one or another option. Experts recommend not to make an exact binding in the design, otherwise you will have to look for another key holder in case of repairs in the hallway.
If the frame already has some kind of coating, but it is very old, or peeled off, then it must be cleaned, sanded and recoated with the selected color.

In order for the new paint to lie flat on the wooden base, use a primer in the work.

After the paint on the frame is dry, you can start hanging hooks on it.
Now your main task is to decide where and how such a key holder will be attached. The place for it is chosen in such a way that it is convenient for all family members to use it. Therefore, the height of the frame is calculated depending on the height of the smallest in the family.

If you have a lot of knowledge in carpentry, then you can use your knowledge and make a key holder yourself from the remains of a tree. And we will analyze a simpler version of the product, made of plywood.

How to make a plywood key holder

To create a housekeeper from this material, you need to make a lot of effort. But first, draw on paper what you want to end up with. Look for ideas for implementation on the Internet or think over a scheme for plywood blanks.

There is only one way to simplify this task. In order not to engage in cutting plywood blanks, you can purchase them ready-made. Then you just have to find a basis for the housekeeper and skillfully distribute all the elements on it.

If you do not like easy ways or the work itself is a joy to you, then all the blanks can be made according to your own drawings and diagrams. To do this, you need to prepare:

plywood or fiberboard;
acrylic paint;
napkins on the fabric;
paper napkins;
brushes;
glue;
several hooks;
sandpaper.

The process of making a key holder can be divided into several stages:

It is no coincidence that acrylic paint is used for these works. It dries very quickly, which allows you to start further work after a short period of time.

You can choose any technique as a design. Someone loves decoupage, and someone is closer to a mosaic or painting, but in one case or another it is better to give preference to a proven option so as not to spoil the product.

We will analyze the design option using decoupage.

If this is your first work, then take as a basis small drawings that will not occupy the entire surface of the future housekeeper. Let these be the key parts of the drawings, which receive all the attention.

How to perform decoupage on a housekeeper:

Use your hands to cut out drawings of the desired size from a napkin. Carefully separate the two lower layers, and apply the first layer, with a pattern, to the surface of the key holder.
Take the decoupage glue. If it was not at hand, then you can always replace it with ordinary PVA, diluted with water, in a 1: 2 ratio. Stir the two together and, using a brush, gently begin to apply it to the design attached to the plywood blank.
Work starts from the central part of the fragment in order to exclude material wrinkles.
After the adhesive has dried, the entire surface is varnished in several layers. When applying the next layer, the previous one should dry.
After the last layer has dried, you can start the process of attaching the hooks. How they will be located will depend on your imagination.

It remains to attach the key holder to the wall and the work is ready. Now your keys will always be in place. There are many more options for making key holders, you can see one of them in the video presented:

In conclusion, we can say that the housekeeper is an irreplaceable piece of furniture in every family. In order to exclude everyday searches for the loss, it is better to take care of their storage place, especially since the housekeeper will be able to effectively complement the interior of your hallway with its appearance. There are a lot of options for this product, from banal decorated jars on the nightstand to lockers with secret mechanisms. What you want to see in your hallway is up to you, especially since such a product can be easily made with your own hands.

Beauty and safety in one product

A key holder means a small product (mainly made of wood or other natural material), the appearance of which is determined by the imagination of the author, but the functional component is reduced to storing keys, small accessories. Often, it is they who are most often lost from the owners.

A small fixture can be:

Pocket. In 90% of cases, this is a small wallet where keys are stored. Its main purpose is to keep intact not only the "trifle", but also the screens of mobile phones, tablets and other gadgets. Many people prefer pocket models because of their practicality and compactness.
Wall mounted. Located on the wall near the front door, in the area of direct access and visibility. These are not only the usual hooks, but also real works of decorative art made of plywood, solutions made using decoupage technology.
Door. It is hung on one of the locker doors in the hallway or corridor. If possible, you can use usable space doors.
Desktop. Mostly these are small boxes decorated with original patterns. The design can be different, and special key rings are used to hang the keys.

It is not at all necessary that the wall key holder serve as a storage place for keys. It can be supplemented with a diary or a tear-off notepad. Arrangement of additional shelves will allow you to place shoe cream, "spatula" or a brush for cleaning on them.

A wide range of products for the hallway is on sale. But such products do not differ in visual sophistication, and in fact, it is often the design that is a reflection of wealth and versatility. inner peace owners of the house. From this point of view, it is more profitable to make a wall key holder yourself from scrap materials, especially if you have basic skills in working with tools.

Housekeeper with key chains

Before making a housekeeper with your own hands, you should decide on an idea for this product. The best choice is considered wooden model on the wall, due to the simplicity of manufacture, wide design possibilities and optimal functionality. A striking example of this is a house made of plywood.

For its manufacture, it is necessary to prepare the following tools, materials and compositions:

a piece of plywood from 25x15 to 25x25 cm in size;
stain;

A do-it-yourself house-shaped housekeeper assumes that the product is given the shape of a residential object. And if the main part is decorated with decor or decoupage, then they give the key rings any desired shape (as an option - parents and children). Many figures and objects can be found on the Internet.

The key holder is made in the sequence presented below.

Plywood blank for the future house is processed at the ends. The corners should be rounded and the chamfer completely removed from the surface. We do it all sandpaper.

We apply a printed image to the surface (in our case, a house). It is very important that the bottom of the picture matches the edge wood material.

The leaf with the image of the house is fixed (with pushpins), and then outlined, transferred to the surface (for a carbon copy).

Figures are transferred under the key rings in the same way.

At the next stage, you need to cut through the contour of the figures with a hand jigsaw.

At the bottom end, the workpiece is cut by 3-5 mm (the key rings holding the keys should protrude slightly above the wooden structure).

To eliminate chips and roughness, the surface is polished. Small holes are made under the rings.

Decoupage - The best way decorate the finished product. Alternatively, the pattern can be burned with a wood burner.

The key holder is ready for use! All that remains is to screw it to the wall surface at the front door. Use it for your own pleasure, and do not lose the keys.

What shape of the housekeeper to choose?

Under the housekeeper today they know compact decorative items, and not just a flat, rough wardrobe, which "housewives" use to decorate their own interior. In form, they naturally stand out, moreover, like a natural work of art, however, hooks are screwed into each. By the way, this is not necessary, there are also unusual products. However, this is the only part you need to get from a hardware store if you want to do it yourself.

What is of interest is how housekeepers evolved over time. Everything came from a simple board in a frame on the surface of the wall, apparently since the keys in the old days were mostly of massive size. It was easier to arrange them on an ordinary board, sometimes decorated with a colored background. By the way, the placement of the keys could be horizontal, for the production of the effect, but they themselves, by the type of arrangement, were wall-mounted products.

With a certain period, the place for the keys began to be replaced by multifunctional devices, or mixed together with the rest of the necessary little things in the front drawers. We believe this should not last further, the wall key holder carries the sacred meaning and beauty of the interior aesthetics. And in this sense, those owners who preserved the old customs still preferred the smaller option. In other words, the housekeeper is a plate, with similar metal hooks can be found to this day.

Continuing the excursion into history, I would like to pay my own attention to the choice of the owners of private buildings, where there were charming outbuildings. The keys there were not very small, thanks to this they used parquet boards in frames with individual numbers. A similar housekeeper hung on the surface of the wall at the entrance to the kitchen from the courtyard. Often heavy keychains were stored on it.

We insulate metal door

All types of key holders described earlier are intended for open access. At the same time, in order to protect property from third-party intrusion into the home, all very often use key-holders, cabinets with secret locking devices. This is almost a real safe, but with a lesser degree of protection. However, exactly the same housekeepers decorate rooms for concierges, from the outside they look like solid and good furniture made to order.

Our craftsmen, who were born in the USSR, had a good gift for adapting all the materials that were at hand, and then they found the most spontaneous solutions. So, in one of the famous magazines of that time, the project of the house's housekeeper was published. This is a special case, since the "house" made on the basis of an old clock that was out of order resembled the same key cabinet.

Its subsequent renewal allowed enthusiasts to make housekeepers in all sorts of variations and forms, decorated as if by pictures. We want to offer one of such professional classes for making a housekeeper with our own hands for our readers.

What is it like

A key holder is a small device, the design of which is limited only by the creative skills of a specific person. It happens:

Wall mounted. Placed in most cases closer to the exit at eye level, so that it is always available to the eye. As a rule, it has hooks in its own design, or a more creative version of the fastening of the bundle can be used.
Pocket. It is itself a small wallet in which the keys are hidden. Such a product is useful in that it makes it possible to remove the occurrence of scratches on any gadgets, and also to eliminate the occurrence of holes in pockets and bags.
Desktop. In this case, it is made in the form of a small box with beautiful patterns. In order to remember to put the keys into it, a specialized keychain is put on them.
Placed on the locker door. Most have a dressing table near the exit. Why not use the surface inside the door with greater benefit?

Housekeeper drawer

This item does not have to be the only place where the keys reside. In addition, it can be adapted for business or other notes. A non-standard mount will be useful for glasses or a cell phone. Moreover, additional shelves will allow you to remember where the brush and shoe polish were left the previous time. Here you can also save portable drives (flash drives), well, or their covers, which are sure to try to get lost somewhere. If the wall key holders are close to the doors, then it is better to provide additional levels of protection so that no one, having put his hand in, could take possession of the ligament.

There are a very large number of ready-made options. They are designed taking into account the place where they will be applied. For office or other companies, metal products are made that have a built-in lock. Hotels can boast of solutions that are made under certain interior... Warehouses do not stand out for their elegance, but are designed in order to fulfill their own important function, and not please the eye. But the renovation of an apartment or house is a reflection of the inner world of its residents. This requires a personal approach.

Pocket housekeeper

It is more comfortable to carry things with you when they are carefully packed. A pocket housekeeper is considered not only a practical companion item, but also part of the image of its owner. It can be realized with each drawing or be with the family coat of arms and initials. All this can be done without assistance. For one of the popular options, you will need:

a flap of skin measuring 16 × 10.5 cm;
rivets for leather color;
riveter;
preparation for a housekeeper with carbines;
scissors;
punch.

Pocket housekeeper

The key holder will look more beautiful if its edges are rounded. For marking, you can use a bottle cap, an intercom key, or something appropriate. Then the actions go in this order:

A blank with carbines is attached to the future installation site.
Hole marks are transferred to the skin cover.
A bunch of keys lies in the middle and the edges are wrapped. This will make it possible to measure where the rivets should be determined in order for the product to close. Appropriate marking is performed.
In the free space, which is located under the keys, a lining of similar leather is made. This will make it possible to secure the back wall and eliminate its wear.
Holes are made according to the markings.
The workpiece is attached with rivets, and then the rivets are attached to the cuffs.

An additional highlight will be a line from the opposite thread, which can be performed with a small indent from the edge.

Another 1 option can be performed according to the principle of a multifunctional device. In order to establish exactly which piece of leather will be needed, you need to concentrate all the keys into one press and fasten them with something. You will need to attach them to the material and mark the width with a margin of a couple of millimeters. Further, gates are performed and marks are applied. One side remains open, and the strap serves as a retainer. The point is that the keys will be in the case, and you can pull them out like a penknife. Additional elements will require eyelets and furniture fasteners. The final one in most cases is used to secure adjacent cabinets. It is a threaded bolt that goes into the tube. Their hats are created in the same way.

A hole is made in the places where the keys will be fixed.
The components fit into place, with small leather pads placed between them to prevent chafing or clanging.
Furniture fasteners are installed.
Rivets are attached to the strap and to one of the sides.
A grommet is placed below, to which it will be possible to fix a keychain or something else.

Someone loves a wallet-shaped housekeeper. For this, a piece of skin is selected, a zipper is sewn into it. The ends are sewn up. A small braid with a ring or carabiner is fixed in the middle. A bunch of keys is hung on it.

Table key keeper

Tabletop

The table key holder is most often located on the pier glass. It is placed in the most conspicuous place so that, entering the living area, without looking, throw the keys and go about your own business. In her role, you can use any small saucer or jewelry packaging. There is ready-made solutions as products in the shape of a shell or small cabinets.

As you can see, wood or iron key holders are affordable solution... You can make them personally, using what exists nearby. Most of the solutions given can be used as a basis for your research. We are very interested in what ideas you have. Do not forget to share them in the comments to the publication.

How to make a beautiful Japanese-style wood housekeeper:

Master class on making a pocket key holder:

Iron housekeeper

As a key

Baguette key holder

Wall-mounted key box

Far from large settlements summer cottages with fruit trees, shrubs, vegetable gardens and berry crops, the problem of disposal of not only household waste, but also rotten fruit and vegetable products is always relevant. In this situation, the solution to the problem of getting rid of organic residues is often a do-it-yourself compost box, the manufacturing options for which are distinguished by constructive simplicity and availability of materials.

Before building a composter, they usually look through numerous photographic materials on the Internet, choosing the right constructive option with affordable budget components. With proper installation in compliance with the following technologies for assembling and using the container, the composting of waste will occur with high efficiency, and the garden composter will serve for a rather long time.

Rice. 1 Composters in the finished product area

Composting is an aerobic (with air access) process of decomposition (reheating) of vegetable and household organic waste of animal origin with the help of: bacteria; microorganisms; decomposers (bacteria and fungi that destroy the remains of living things); detritus feeders (animals and protozoa that eat decaying organic matter); mushrooms; worms (vermicomposting). The end result of biodegradation occurring in the compost pit (destruction of complex compounds as a result of the activity of living organisms) is the formation of a useful nutrient mass for plants - humus (humus).

In households, the compost box performs two main functions: recycling organic waste and processing it into useful fertilizer. When composting in the laid-up mass, the following processes take place:

the quantitative indicator of chemical elements useful for the nutrition of plant crops increases - phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen and others;
the content of hemicellulose, cellulose and pectin components in humus decreases, causing the transition of nitrogen-phosphorus compounds well absorbed by vegetation into another organic state that is not absorbed by plants;
microflora harmful to human health is neutralized, causing pathogenic bacterial diseases, helminth egg-laying is destroyed;
the formed finished mass is made free-flowing, its introduction into the ground is greatly simplified.

Rice. 2 Layout of composting

Composting raw materials

In households, the following types of waste are the main components for filling in compost containers:

organic matter of animal origin: manure and its slurry, spoiled feed, bird droppings, feces;
vegetable - weeds from vegetable gardens, parts of garden plants after processing (tomato stepchildren), grass cut from lawns, vegetable, fruit and berry cleaning, unsuitable for food;
after processing agricultural products - tops from root crops, corn stalks, stems of sunflowers, flax and hemp fire;
from woodworking and trees: shavings, bark, sawdust, leaves, small twigs;
household - residues from processing plant food (vegetable and fruit peels, seed husks, coffee and tea cake), egg shells;
peat.

All raw materials for composting are conventionally divided into two categories (table Fig. 3):

brown- has a high carbon content (leaves and needles of trees, woodworking waste, straw and stems of plants).
green- with a high concentration of nitrogen (all plants and plant waste, food residues, manure).

Empirically, the optimal ratio of green and brown mass for effective decay has been calculated, it is 25 - 30 units to 1. For example, if we take one part of leaves with an indicator of 60: 1 and two parts of manure with a ratio of 15: 1, then we get three parts humus 90: 3, that is, the best ratio of components, 30: 1.

To improve the quality of the compost, it adds phosphorite and dolomite flour, mineral fertilizers, ash, sometimes soil is used, pouring layers of waste into it.

Rice. 3 Table of ratios of carbon to nitrogen for organics

Do not put into the compost bin:

plants with germinated seeds, freshly dug roots of wheatgrass and horsetail crops;
potato and tomato tops infected with powdery mildew and late blight, vegetation covered with herbicides;
seeds of fruit trees;
garbage that does not contain organic matter;
unsuitable for food organic residues from the slaughter of animals, protein waste;
excrement from some pets.

When constructing a compost box, owners of summer cottages and backyards should take into account the factors necessary for efficient processing waste, microorganisms for life require:

carbon- promotes the formation of energy during oxidation and reduction processes with the release of thermal energy;
nitrogen- participates in nitrogen metabolism of the soil, converting toxic ammonia into less harmful nitrates and biologically inert atmospheric nitrogen;
oxygen- required for carrying out oxidative processes with the participation of carbon and the implementation chemical reactions decomposition of organic matter;
water- the necessary and best environment for biological processes involving microorganisms.

The presence and ratio of these chemical elements determines the rate of reaction and, accordingly, the maturation of the compost.

Important: Since the processes take place with the participation of aerobic bacteria, which need good air access, to obtain compost, it needs regular aeration - mixing (shoveling) with a pitchfork or a shovel.

The average time for obtaining the finished product is about 2 years from the moment of laying; when using acceleration methods (organic destructors or aeration), the compost matures within 1 season.

Rice. 4 How the composter works

Considering the above, the compost bin must meet the following requirements:

Since oxygen is needed for the vital activity of aerobic bacteria, which carry out the main work on the decomposition of organic matter, the box is not made hermetically closed. Its walls and bottom should have slots or openings for ventilation and air access to the widest possible area of humus.
Excess moisture leads to the leaching of humus from the container, so it is equipped with a protective cover.
To saturate the compost mass with air, it must be periodically stirred - for convenient access to the lower layers, the box is collected not too deep or narrow.
The process of humus formation takes at least 1 season, while the material for making the box is constantly in a humid environment with microorganisms. It is desirable that the details of its design have the longest possible service life.
Since the compost heap is usually constantly replenished with organic waste, which is poured through the top, and the humus located for a long time at the bottom is often ripe and can be ready for use, it should be possible to remove the lower layers of fertilizer in the structure. To do this, slide-out strips are mounted in the bottom or in the front of the box from below.

Rice. 5 Composting wooden boxes

Manufacturing materials

Before making a compost box for recycling waste with your own hands, they select the material for its manufacture, most often they consider the following options:

Wood

For the manufacture of a wooden box, boards are used that are unnecessary in household, ready-made pallets, timber, it makes no sense to use plywood, fiberboard or chipboard sheets that have too low moisture resistance. Since untreated wood will not last too long, it is covered with moisture-repellent materials - of various kinds paints, varnishes, hydrophobic impregnations, waterproofing mixtures, bituminous mastics.

Note: Economical and efficient ways of processing wood - impregnating it with machine oil or waste oil, you can simply wrap individual boards with plastic wrap and nail them to the frame.

Metal

Using regular steel for the box with high moisture and fertilizer that will be applied to the soil to feed edible crops is not a good option, given that rust will contaminate the compost. That's why the best way- the use of corrosion-resistant materials in the structure of the box, the most budgetary of which are galvanized sheet (metal profile) and aluminum.

The metal box can be assembled from individual narrow plates or corners (to increase strength), screwed to a wooden frame made of timber treated with water-repellent compounds.

Rice. 6 Composters made of polymers

Polymers

Making a compost bin or barrel from polymers is the most successful option in terms of corrosion resistance and a service life of plastics, up to 50 years. The trade network sells factory composters for summer cottages, which have an aesthetic appearance, various constructive and color solution, a convenient system of access to the lower layers of humus. The price of plastic composters is not so small, a rather nondescript product can be bought for 2,000 rubles, the cost of imported boxes or large-volume products reaches 15,000 rubles.

Other materials

In addition to the traditional components, the compost bin can be built from the following materials:

Net... There are mesh types of compost containers on the market that provide the best air exchange, similar devices can be made yourself from a mesh-type mesh. During operation, the mesh box will have to be closed from above with a waterproof lid, and during operation it is difficult to mix the compost mass.

Note: Often, when constructing a composter box, a synthetic mesh is used, which closes the gaps between wooden planks, preventing the contents from falling out, with this design, the distance between the strips can be increased up to 50 mm.

Rice. 7 Mesh boxes

Slate. Recently, slate has significantly lost ground when used as roofing material, one of the ways of its use is the construction of containers for waste processing from sheets. In many variants of boxes, the walls are made of solid sheets, which prevents air exchange.

Brick. A reliable and durable box can be folded from bricks or any building blocks, when laying it is possible to make cells for air exchange, the main disadvantage of a monolithic structure is difficulty in mixing and removing ripe masses.

How to make a wooden composter

It is not so difficult to make a compost box with your own hands, having studied the corresponding drawings and photos on the Internet. For the construction of a wooden composter, boards of small width up to 100 mm of arbitrary length are suitable, for their fastening you will need a bar with a section of about 50x50 mm. To increase the service life of all wood parts, it is advisable to treat it with water-repellent agents before installation.

Before making a garden composter, an assembly diagram is drawn, after which the building materials are sawn into pieces of the required length in accordance with a previously drawn drawing. To assemble the boxes, you will need a tape measure, a hacksaw (jigsaw) or a circular saw for wood, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver (Phillips screwdriver), a crowbar and a shovel for digging holes in the ground.

Rice. 8 Metal containers

The step-by-step instructions for assembling a wooden box are as follows:

They dig 4 holes in the ground, observing the required distances, to a depth of at least 30 cm, insert pre-cut bars about 130 cm long into them, fill the holes tightly with stones and compact the soil.
The horizontal wooden strips are screwed to the vertical bars along the perimeter with self-tapping screws, leaving a distance of 2 - 5 cm between them. Another option is to assemble the box on the ground and then immerse it in the dug holes.
To prevent the penetration of precipitation into the box, a light removable frame is made of wooden strips knocked down along the perimeter of the container (they can be fastened together with flat corners), a stretched polyethylene film or a thin sheet of tin is nailed to it from above.
In the lower part, to extract the ripe humus, two strips are made removable by inserting them into the grooves of a curved rigid metal plate.

Even faster, you can make a wooden box from 4 ready-made pallets (transport pallets), for this they are installed vertically or horizontally close to each other and connected to each other in the corners on self-tapping screws or using wooden planks. The design usually provides for the possibility of removing one of the pallets for mixing and retrieving the compost mass.

Rice. 9 Wooden box assembly drawing

When making a compost bin, the following tips may be helpful:

The easiest way is to make a container from a wooden bar and slats; before installation, they should be impregnated with a water-repellent compound, it is cheaper to use waste engine oil.
Since the ripening time of humus when adding accelerators takes 1 year, it is better to add them in early spring in such a way that fertilizer is laid out before planting crops.
In the process of maturation, the compost heap must be periodically moistened and mixed; cow dung, chamomile, dandelion, and yarrow infused with water are used as a home ripening accelerator.
The composter must be located in a shaded place at the maximum distance from water intake sources () if they are available on the site, optimal height the box is 1 m.

Rice. 10 Types of composting facilities

The use of compost technologies in households makes it possible not only to dispose of a significant amount of waste, but also to obtain on their basis an environmentally friendly fertilizer for feeding vegetable crops. If you have financial means, it is not at all necessary to make a composter container yourself from improvised components - a number of easy-to-use models made of durable corrosion-resistant polymers with an aesthetic appearance and a color suitable for most areas are sold in the retail network.

High-quality compost is one of the most effective and safe organic fertilizers, perfect for feeding fruit, berry and vegetable crops. To properly prepare the fertilizer, you need to make a compost pit with your own hands. We will consider manufacturing options and photos in detail in this article.

Plant and household organic residues that have undergone the processes of decomposition and decay in such a pit are transformed into a universal fertilizer. Under natural conditions, this period takes from one to two years. However, the use of suitable structures, timely maintenance of their contents and the use of special additives can significantly reduce the time and get ready-made compost in a few months.

Compost is excellent for use as a quality due to its homogeneous structure and external resemblance to fertile chernozem soil.

Basic rules for constructing a compost pit

The compost maturation pit is a real bioreactor, the main purpose of which is to stimulate the emergence and maintenance of biochemical reactions necessary for the decomposition of ingredients and their transformation into fertilizer.

The main principles of the correct arrangement and placement of such a pit on the site:

You need to place the pit in partial shade;
The distance to water sources must be at least 25 m;
It is desirable that there are no trees nearby;
You can bury the hole in the ground no more than 50 cm, but from above it should rise by about 1 m;
Consideration should be given to the possibility of loosening the compost;
It is necessary to alternate layers of organic and plant waste with soil.

The size of the pit must be selected depending on the amount of waste, focusing on the average annual volume.

Types of compost pits

There are several options for making compost pits, heaps and bins, with certain advantages and disadvantages.

Standard compost heap

The easiest way is to make an ordinary compost heap on the site, choosing the most appropriate place for its placement, sufficiently remote from residential buildings, fruit trees and vegetable garden.

The manufacturing method is as simple as possible:

In the chosen place, you need to start laying all the waste in layers, alternating plant and organic. Grass and fresh manure are desirable ingredients.
In a heap, "grown" up to 1 m in height, you need to make several small depressions and carefully pour into them a special composition designed to accelerate the maturation of the compost.
The pile should be regularly loosened with a pitchfork and, if there is insufficient moisture, it should be watered moderately.

By maintaining optimal humidity and warm enough weather, the compost in the heap will be ready within a few months. To provide the garden with fertilizer on a consistent basis, it is best to make several piles in succession.

Compost pile or pit, fenced with netting or any other material

To make the compost heap as easy to use as possible, you need to shield it with a fine-mesh metal mesh:

Pick up a strong metal wire, bend it into a circle of a suitable diameter and connect with pliers. You can take a ready-made metal hoop.
Cut the metal mesh of the required length, bend all sharp edges so as not to scratch your hands and connect it together, firmly bending the segments with pliers.
In the same way, attach the net to the wire circle and place it over the compost heap, digging in a little. To make the structure better keep its shape, you can take two circles - attach one at the bottom, and the other at the top.
To give strength, place several metal rods or pieces of strong wire inside the mesh, dig them into the ground and attach them tightly to the mesh itself.

The described method of organization makes it easy to get the finished compost, simply by raking it out of the lower mesh cells, or gently lift the mesh, taking out the finished fertilizer.

Using this method, you can make a compost pit with your own hands. The options for its manufacture in the photo suggest a not too high fence with a net, so that there is access to the mixing of decomposing waste. The pit must be strengthened inside so that the walls do not crumble, digging the mesh structure directly into the ground.

Instead of a grid, you can use metal racks, corners and wooden sticks, fastened together with strong wire. It turns out a fence that resembles an ordinary fence. Wooden sticks can be knocked together with horizontally placed boards. A round pile or pit will be inconvenient in such cases, so it is better to choose a square or rectangular shape.

Ordinary slate, corrugated sheets, polycarbonate and other similar materials will do. When using them, it is important to ensure the flow of air into the compost pit by making ventilation holes.

Simple compost pit

In a great way, dried grass and tops left over from different plants is a simple compost pit dug into the ground. You need to do it like this:

Remove the top layer of the earth and dig a hole no more than 50 cm deep, so that it is convenient to get to the very bottom. The optimal width and length for universal pits are 1 and 2 m, respectively.
Put hay, tree bark, branches, grass or leaves at the bottom.
Place waste on top in layers, alternating organic and inorganic.
To provide optimal temperature cover the pit with a tarp or plastic wrap.

Basically, a pit is not much different from a compost heap, but it is more difficult to maintain it in proper condition, since it can be difficult to loosen and mix the compost. The main advantage over a heap is space savings.

Concrete compost pit

To create a stationary compost pit, you can use concreting technology:

Dig a hole 20-30 cm deeper than the planned burial.
Build a formwork around the pit, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm.
Mix and pour concrete solution.
After complete drying, remove the formwork.
Place at the bottom drainage layer from dry twigs, leaves or hay.
Provide for the possibility of covering the pit with plywood or film.

A similar structure can also be made using concrete rings. A stationary pit is the best choice for those who plan to use it for many years. For such a pit, the issue of ventilation and stimulation of waste decomposition is relevant.

Compost bins from old plastic barrels

Good closed compost bins come from old plastic drums. The size of the barrel must be selected, focusing on a certain amount of waste.

The simplest construction can be done like this:

Rinse the barrel well if it has previously contained any chemicals.
Cut off one side to provide free access to the ground.
Make wide enough slots in the bottom of the barrel or a special hinged door so that you can easily get the finished compost.
Place the barrel in a pre-selected location with the lid facing up. If a convenient lid was not provided in the barrel, you can make it yourself by attaching it to the hinges.

The plastic barrel is absolutely not subject to rotting, but due to the tightness, the compost in it can decompose incorrectly. To cope with this is the placement on bare ground, without a bottom, the creation of additional ventilation holes and the use of special mixtures to accelerate the decomposition of waste.

To significantly accelerate the maturation of the compost, you can use a special design with a rotating plastic barrel located horizontally.

Not everyone can make such an adaptation on their own, but ready-made options are often quite expensive. The main advantage of such a structure is that the fertilizer in it can be ready within 3-4 weeks.

Wooden compost bins

In addition to plastic barrels and do-it-yourself compost pits, the production options for which are discussed above, boxes made of ordinary wood have proven themselves well, providing optimal ventilation necessary for the compost to mature.

Such boxes are made according to the same principle as containers from plastic barrels, only the lower part is left open or a hinged door is installed for easy removal of the fertilizer. To make wood last longer, it must be treated with special compounds.

There is another version of the boxes, assuming the presence of a wooden bottom. In this case, drainage from dry branches, straw and similar materials is placed on the "floor". The bottom is often made of a metal mesh stuffed onto a wooden frame.

Easy to use three-section wooden boxes, separated by partitions. Such structures are made in the same way as ordinary boxes, only they provide for the presence of three compartments. One for the ready-made fertilizer for two years "aging", the other for the maturing compost and the third for fresh waste.

Such boxes require a sufficiently large free area on the site. However, they are the most versatile tools to ensure that there is always ready compost available.

A great way to speed up the maturation time of the compost and improve its quality is to plant Californian worms, which can loosen the waste a little and give it a uniform structure. The worms can be planted in any compost heap, pits and boxes.

Compost is one of the most effective and readily available fertilizers in the country. It is free, contains many substances useful for plants, improves the structure of the soil, it is done, albeit for a long time, but without much effort. In order for the fertilizer to be correct and to be used for its intended purpose, you need a suitable compost box, which is easy to build with your own hands.

General rules for making compost containers

These rules follow from the peculiarities of making plant fertilizers. In order for the compost not to burn out and turn out to be really useful for the garden, several conditions are needed:

Based on these rules, we understand that a good compost bin should consist of walls with holes and a dense, moisture-proof lid. Two compartments are needed: in one the compost is prepared, from the second it is used. Sometimes three divisions are made. It is better to put the structure away from the house and the recreation area so that the unpleasant smell does not interfere with enjoying the delights of summer cottage life. The place should be far enough away from neighbors. It's great if the sun shines and a shadow falls on the box one by one.

The compost bin should be located far from the residential building

Separately, it should be said about the bottom of the compost bin. Some gardeners don't do it at all, just placing the box on the ground. This can lead to the fact that melt water most of the beneficial fertilizer will simply wash out. In addition, it will be inconvenient to get it, as it will partially mix with the ground. Therefore, two options are advised:

make good drainage - lay on the bottom a layer of branches and boards with a thickness of at least 25 cm, like a warm bed;
make a ventilated bottom from boards, polypropylene mesh, metal grate - what is available on the farm.

A plastic or iron bottom is preferable here, as it is more durable.

Composting options: how and from what can be made

As a rule, waste materials are used to make such a box:

old (but not rotten!) boards;
slate from a broken roof;
the remains of corrugated board from the roof or fence;
unnecessary mesh-netting.

Any structural elements that tend to rot and rust must be treated with protective materials.

To wooden box lasted longer for compost, it is necessary to treat the boards with an antiseptic against decay

Compost box made of boards

For a compost with a size of 1 × 2 m you will need:

You can take boards from an old fence or buy the cheapest slab (lumber processed only on one side).

The compost is made in the following sequence:

A layer of sod and fertile soil is removed from the intended installation site.
Bars are dug in along the edges of the box according to the scheme three on the long side and two on the short side.
The compost bin is best made of two or three compartments.
Long two-meter boards are attached to three bars using nails or self-tapping screws. Then short boards are drilled on the sides of the structure. The distance between the boards for ventilation can be left 3-5 cm.
2 lids are made from short boards. To facilitate the structure, you can make it not solid, but either with a lattice, or like a wicket, when a frame is made around the perimeter of the lid and another board is attached obliquely.
A grate-style compost bin lid is easier to raise and lower than a solid lid
The lids are upholstered with strong black foil and hinges are attached to them and to the box. A hook can be attached to hold the lids open.
If you make a hatch from below for removing the finished fertilizer, it can also be made on hinges and equipped with a hook.
The lid is attached to the box with hinges, and to keep it open, use a hook

Video: how to make a do-it-yourself compost bin from boards

Compost box made of corrugated board

If large-scale construction is underway at the dacha, including replacing the roof, as a rule, sheets of corrugated board remain. They will also make an excellent compost, but ventilation needs to be carefully considered. To make it you will need:

Construction is carried out in steps:

Video: how to make a compost box from corrugated board with your own hands

Compost bin made of mesh

Such a box will be quite light, if necessary, it can be moved to another place. For construction you will need:

Manufacturing procedure:

Slate compost

Materials and tools that will be required:

Box constructions include the following points:

Since the slate is wavy, ventilation takes place through the ripple slots on the sides and through the holes from old nails.

A slate compost bin is made according to the same principle as a high bed

Table: Comparison of the pros and cons of different compost bin options

Compost box - essential accessory suburban area, because you can put plant residues and food waste into it and get an excellent natural fertilizer. A competent design of the box and the right material will ensure good processing of green mass into compost.

Do-it-yourself compost box from what to make

To make compost in the country, people use various materials at hand. Some simply dig holes and throw the torn weeds into them, others adapt old containers (barrels, boxes, etc.) for this purpose, and still others take the matter of making compost so seriously that they build special boxes for this purpose. Naturally, the most optimal material for the manufacture of this device is wood - of course, they do not buy it on purpose, but used is used. For example, they disassemble unnecessary wooden crafts- in most cases, pallets for building and other materials. The board used for them is usually good and for such a device it suits perfectly well - a box for compost from pallets serves for a very long time.

Compost box from pallets photo

In addition to such wood, you will additionally need wooden bar section 50 by 50 mm, a large ridge of self-tapping screws, trimming of the UD gypsum plasterboard profile (guides will be made of them, which will allow easy access to the finished compost, which is usually located at the bottom of the box). Also, it will not be superfluous to think about tools - the boards will need to be cut, and the screws will need to be screwed. In addition, you will need a shovel to install the shields - in principle, this is a standard country tool that is available in any country house. And one more thing - despite the fact that solid wood is used for the manufacture of pallets, it will not be superfluous to take care of its safety. Soak it with an antiseptic compound and, if possible, paint - after such processing of the wood, the compost box made from it will serve for a very long time. You can see how a compost bin is made with your own hands in this short video.

How to make a compost box with your own hands dimensions and markings

In principle, no one will give you any exact dimensions of compost bins - for the most part, their dimensions are due to the area of the dacha (or rather, the amount of grass pulled out per year) and the size of the source material. You have boards 2000mm long, which means that the dimensions of the box should be adjusted to fit them. This will not work with pallets, since their width is about 1000 mm - not enough, of course, but there is a way out. You just have to do not a single box, but a double one. On the one hand, this is even better - you get a two-year compost bin. You load the grass into one this year (next season it will be used as a ready-made fertilizer), and the cut grass will be loaded into the second compartment. This gives you the right amount of compost.

How to make a compost box in the country photo

As far as the design of the compost bin is concerned, we have decided on it. Now you can safely do the preparatory work. They are not complicated and all you have to do is three things.

First of all, mark in the selected place of the summer cottage a rectangle with a size of 1115mm by 2230mm and install four pins in its corners, on which to pull the thread.
According to the stretched thread along the long side of the box (on both sides), at a distance of 1115mm from any corner, install a couple more pins - these are the middle posts dividing the product into two equal parts.
Dig holes 300-400mm deep in the places marked with pins.

In principle, this is all the preparation, after finishing with which it will be possible to safely proceed to the manufacture of the box itself - this is what we will do next.

Benefits of compost

Quality compost is saturated with nutrients from the decomposition of organic materials.

Useful substances are in a form easily assimilated by plants. The compost mass is comparable in its characteristics to mullein and can be applied even under garden crops that cannot tolerate fresh manure. There are many uses for the compost site:

Laying in holes when planting vegetables, flowers, shrubs and trees.
Spreading on the ground before planting root crops.
Embedding into the soil during autumn and spring digging.
Mulching of trunks.

Compost is good in every sense.

This is great for plants. organic fertilizer, for the earth - a good loosening agent, and for people - an easy way to get rid of waste.

Features of Finnish waste composting technology

The process of maturation of compost in natural conditions is quite long: 2 - 2.5 years until fully cooked. There are components that rot faster - green grass, straw, cleaning. Others need more time and fast ingredients help them.

It is better to compost waste according to Finnish technology in boxes self-made, since their manufacture will cost much less than buying factory containers. The principle is to empty one of the boxes one by one and use the finished mixture as fertilizer in the garden.

Bookmarking process:

The first box receives spring garden waste, is filled with accelerators and left for 2 months. After this time, the mixture will be ready.

Waste is placed in the second box one month after the first box.

In the third - after another 1.5 months.

After two months, the waste in the first box, with proper care, will ripen and can be used as fertilizer. After collecting the compost, the waste from the second box is transferred to the first. Perhaps questions will arise - why do the extra work:

Firstly, it is necessary to stir up the mass in any case. This speeds up the maturation process. This is done once a week. Thus, the decaying residues are enriched with oxygen and the bacteria multiply and feed faster.

Secondly, there is less risk of being mistaken about where which compost is located. And the first box will always contain ready-made fertilizer, in the second - ripening, in the third - a new bookmark.

By the same principle, you can build a compost pit using Finnish technology with your own hands, but the difference will be that the waste is processed by another type of microorganism - anaerobic, which does not need air.

The principle of operation of a purchased tank

Finnish dry closets are in demand, which work with microorganisms that process organic matter.

They are designed for outdoor and indoor use. country houses... The principle of operation is as follows:

The insulated sealed tank with a closed bottom is installed indoors or outdoors.

Above the seat there is a tank, into which a natural filler - peat or sawdust - is poured. After each trip to the toilet, a certain amount of this substance is poured into the waste container.

The dry closet is equipped with ventilation, which prevents odors from accumulating inside the room. The pipe is led out to the roof both from the house and from the outside toilet.

Periodically, a biological solution of bacteria is added inside, so that the processing process takes place faster. There is access to the bottom of the composter from the back of the house. It can be opened with a special door and the finished fertilizer can be taken away.

The toilet does not require any special costs, electricity or water. The filler can be any carbonaceous material.

Selection of materials for self-production

The best material for making a composter using Finnish technology is wood. This is the most common material and can be replaced at any time. Many summer residents use pallets, the advantage of which is that they have already been treated with antiseptics against decay and moisture. It is easy to nail a couple more planks to the pallets to make the gaps smaller and control the air flow.

The slate composter is a fragile invention. In addition, according to reviews, the compost takes longer to mature in it. Without prior experience, making holes for screws will be problematic.

A metal mesh is also suitable for composting, but it is installed on wooden or metal corner supports. To prevent the mesh from stretching, it is fixed with several boards around the perimeter.

For the construction of a stationary composter, foam blocks with holes are suitable.

This is an environmentally friendly material that solves two problems at once - the stability of the structure and the ventilation of the compost. Roofing and attaching awnings to concrete is easier than slate. But you will have to buy material if there are no blocks left from the construction site in the storerooms, as well as buy cement and a trowel to fasten the blocks together.

Scheme of a three-section box according to Finnish technology

As described above, optimal sizes composter - 1 m height, 1 m width, 3 m length. The length will need to be divided by two partitions. The dimensions of the common door are 1 m by 1 m.

The dimensions of the lower door are 50 cm high, 1 m wide - it is mounted in a common sash. The roof can be made sloping or gable, while divided by canopies in half, so that it is convenient to open the drawer, turn the contents over and lay a new one.

If you make a more voluminous box, then in height and width it can be increased by 50 cm. The length remains unchanged. In length, any compost pit or heap is made arbitrarily.

How to make a compost bin step by step instructions

Some gardeners make a compost heap instead of a compost bin, but it is important to remember that the latter option has many disadvantages. First of all, this is an unsightly appearance - it is unlikely that your guests will be delighted to see an unpleasant smelling mass in the middle of the site

In addition, it is problematic in this case to stack organic residues and kitchen waste. In addition, if you put all the ingredients haphazardly, it will all roll down, which will cause a lot of hassle.

Someone chooses a pit instead of preparing a compost heap. Yes, this option is also possible, but only if you put all the ingredients at the same time and forget about its existence for at least two years. In this case, the compost will be prepared under anaerobic conditions.

This means that the garden will have an incredibly specific "aroma". This is acceptable in a large area where you can find a remote place to organize a compost pit. on small garden plots for 10 "acres" it is best to choose a compost bin.

Moreover, the compost bin can be easily built from materials that are at hand. However, before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with some of the rules for the construction of such a structure.

It is best to build a compost heap out of wood, especially since there are obviously board trimmings on any site. True, you still should not take very bad wood, especially if you want the structure to be not only strong and durable, but also beautiful. It is best to take rather thick boards for construction, having soaked them in advance with a composition from decay.

You cannot do without this, since the contents of such a box will be quite "aggressive", saturated with various bacteria and microorganisms, which can lead to wood rot.

All walls, except for the front one, must be made with slots, which is important for aeration and normal air access. And the front sweat is done a little differently:

About a third of it is made stationary.
Above, transverse boards are laid end-to-end so that they can be removed to the required height.

Everything is simple here: you need to fill the vertical bars so that "grooves" are formed, where we put the boards. Such a scheme will allow you to take out the compost with maximum convenience when it is ready.

There is an option on which you can save money - all walls except the front are made not of boards, but of sheet slate. The advantages of such material include the fact that it does not rot, which means it will theoretically last longer. True, in this case, the box should be more spacious so that oxygen can quietly "walk" inside.

One more important point- placement of the compost bin. Undoubtedly, it should not be placed in a visible area - choose a secluded corner so that it is not completely in the open sun, but not in the shade - the sun is required in order to maintain the required level of humidity inside the container. It is also worth considering approaches for laying out new ingredients.

What are the optimal dimensions for such a structure? It all depends on factors such as:

The area of the cultivated garden.
The number of people in the family.
Time spent in the garden.

The size of the site greatly affects the size of the compost bin. For example, if you have a large garden and a lawn for a lawn, from where you will get the "ingredients" for compost, it is worth making a larger box, but if the site is very small, of course, you definitely do not need a large structure.

This also applies to the number of members of your family - how more people, the more waste, which means the box itself should be larger

It is also important how often you visit the country - you live there all warm season or come a couple of times a month

Filling the compost bin

At the bottom of the composter, drainage is arranged from large branches left after tree pruning.

Waste is laid in alternating layers 30-40 cm thick, using various materials and spilling water from a watering can. The more varied the filling of the pledged "pie", the better the finished product.

Among the possible compost bin fillers, the most common components are:

Sideral plants. Increases nitrogen content and decomposes quickly.
When laying, they are shuffled with coarse materials (bark, chips, sawdust).
Foliage. Nutrients contains little, is laid dried and crushed.
Straw and hay. Provides a porous structure to the compost, allowing air to enter. They retain moisture well. They are laid in thin layers, alternating with green tops.
Sawdust and bark. They decompose poorly, therefore they are introduced together with manure, tops and bone meal or urea.
Kitchen waste. They rot quickly, significantly enriching the compost.
They are placed in a box mixed with other materials.
Manure. A valuable ingredient in a compost bin. Accelerates the decay process, as it contains a lot of nitrogen. The laid layer of manure is sprinkled on top with earth.

Bones, coals, diseased plants, bindweed roots and similar aggressive weeds are not suitable for composting.

The contents of the compost box are mixed every 2-3 months, new portions of organic matter are added as they become available.

The finished mass has a crumbly structure, dark color, and smells like forest land.

Of course, compost can be bought ready-made, but only self-produced home fertilizer claims to be called “garden gold”.

Filling the compost bin

The do-it-yourself compost box is filled with various organic garbage that lends itself well to the decay process, waste from the kitchen. And of course, the main filling of the box is plant residues. This is mowed lawn grass, rotten hay, moldy straw. Last year's castings, weeds, sawdust and shavings from wood waste are removed into the compost bin. In general, the compost bin is filled with everything that can rot, excluding chemical waste, plastic, polyethylene, glass.

In order for the decay processes to occur faster in the compost box, the compost must be periodically turned over, watered with water, slurry. You can put a layer of fresh manure on the bottom of the box in advance, thereby providing a greenhouse effect. Heat will rise upward, accelerating decay.

Decomposition conditions of plant materials

It seems that it is enough to throw leaves and branches in a heap, add green tops and then nature will do everything.

In fact, certain factors affect the maturation of compost:

The moisture content in the compost is maintained taking into account the different ability of materials to absorb water: it is higher in fibrous and wood waste than in green mass. Accordingly, sawdust, shavings and hay require more moisture than tops and grass.
Oxygen is necessary for the growth of microorganisms, which is achieved by a slot ventilation device and by limiting the depth of the compost container.
Temperature determines the rate of decomposition.
In the first months, microbiological activity leads to the heating of the compost to 60–70 ° C, while the organic material is detoxified. At this stage, the contents of the composter need additional moisture.

An effective method of accelerating the decay of biomass is the introduction of compost bacteria at the preparation stage, which immediately begin to process waste at a high speed.

Of course, the remains of plants piled up in a pile will someday perepere, but this will happen a few years later.

The process is much faster in a container - a purchased plastic or homemade wooden one.

Garden composter which to choose Review of the best types for giving 100 photos

The latter are connected with each other by blocks and serve as a door necessary for raking out the ripe compost.

The folding parts are suspended on hinges, and as a fixing device they hammer in a thick nail and bend it with pliers at right angles.

With a shovel, outline the perimeter of the box, overturn the structure on its side and remove the fertile soil layer under it.

Bricks are laid under the corner and middle posts, the structure is turned over into place.

To keep the doors open, hooks and rings are made of steel wire, fixed in the wood by means of bent nails with a cut off head.

A simple compost bin is ready without a significant investment.

Start filling the compartment, using the selected soil as a separator for the layers to be laid.

General rules for making compost containers

These rules follow from the peculiarities of making plant fertilizers. In order for the compost not to burn out and turn out to be really useful for the garden, several conditions are needed:

air access, since bacteria need oxygen to process plant residues;
moisture, so that the mass of plants folded in a box decomposes;
protection from rain and snow, otherwise all the resulting compost will simply be washed away with water;
cover from the sun and wind so that grass, branches and other waste does not dry out too much;
the ability to cook for a long time to achieve the desired consistency.

The compost bin should be located far from the residential building

Separately, it should be said about the bottom of the compost bin. Some gardeners don't do it at all, just placing the box on the ground. This can lead to the fact that melt water will simply wash out most of the useful fertilizer. In addition, it will be inconvenient to get it, as it will partially mix with the ground. Therefore, two options are advised:

make good drainage - lay on the bottom a layer of branches and boards with a thickness of at least 25 cm, like a warm bed;
make a ventilated bottom from boards, polypropylene mesh, metal grate - what is available on the farm.

A plastic or iron bottom is preferable here, as it is more durable.

How to do the stages of work with your own hands

The first thing to do is to dig a hole for the corner supports. Use a drill or an ordinary shovel for this. When the poles are installed and the ground is compacted, boards or pallets are nailed. Screws will work, but a drill is needed. The gap between the boards is about 1 cm.

The bottom of the composter is made at a distance of 10 cm from the ground. This is necessary so that the nutrient liquid does not go into the soil, and the contents of the compost heap are additionally ventilated from below. Sometimes the bottom is covered with durable material - film or plastic.

The roof is knocked down from the boards as tightly as possible so that precipitation does not penetrate into the composter and create a swamp in it. This lowers the combustion temperature and slows down maturation. The roof consists of two equal parts, which are connected by awnings.

The lower unloading doors are attached last. They can be made only in the first box, since in the second the components will be ripened and laid.

Video: DIY compost bin

Foam block composter

For a massive stationary composter, the number of blocks must be correctly calculated. To prevent the mass from sagging, the site is concreted before laying out the walls - this will be the bottom of the compost heap. When the concrete has completely hardened, you can make walls.

It is recommended to make the front wall two times lower so that it is convenient to work with a pitchfork and make the roof sloping. Such a structure is usually mounted behind a house or other place where the sun shines least of all. It should be borne in mind that rotting waste emits a characteristic odor, so they are looking for a suitable place right away - it will be impossible to transfer the concrete structure.

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Homemade compost bin

It is not necessary to use new lumber for the construction of a compost bin; in the home garden there will always be suitable blanks from unnecessary pallets or old window frames.

More or less whole boards without visible rot, at least 90 cm long, are chosen from such rubbish, the number of which depends on their width. You will also need four long blanks (200 cm) and six bars with a cross section of about 5x10 cm.

Compost bin drawing:

It is convenient to use a wooden box of the indicated sizes, its contents “breathe” and quickly warms up.

One compartment is intended for fresh waste, after filling to the top, the biomass is left to rot, and the next components are placed in the second compartment.

This design allows you to receive a new portion of organic fertilizer every year.

The selected boards are marked out according to the drawing, trying not to use the chipped and cracked ends.

The workpieces are sawn with a hacksaw and cut off if you plan to treat the parts with protective compounds.

Assembling the compost bin starts with making two long shields.