What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Without watering the garden and vegetable garden fruit trees and other crops will not produce the harvest you expected, and in dry seasons they will die altogether. There are several ways to water the garden and garden, and before resorting to one of them or using the whole complex, you need to familiarize yourself with the watering rules.

Watering rates for plants in the garden and in the garden

Watering your garden in summer, spring and fall is difficult but necessary. Therefore, irrigation systems must be easy to manufacture, reliable and safe to maintain.

The industry-standard small sprinkler heads make watering much easier. The nozzle is inserted into a hose, which is vertically secured with a wire or clamp on a pole stuck in the ground. When fed into the hose, water is sprayed, moistening the soil. Having finished watering one area, the hose with the pole is rearranged to another place, and the process is repeated.

You can run a pipeline with vertical pipes, attaching a nozzle to each, and opening the valve to water the entire area at once. Pipe irrigation is often used. In this case, pipes with holes are laid in the garden. The water supplied under pressure through the holes enters the furrows dug to a depth of 20–30 cm near the plants at a distance of 0.5–1 m from their trunks (depending on age).

According to the need for water, fruit crops can be arranged as follows (from more demanding to less demanding): quince, apple, pear, plum, Walnut, cherry, cherry, peach, apricot.

Watering of orchards is carried out taking into account the phases of the growing season of fruit plants. Before flowering, there is usually enough moisture accumulated in the soil in winter.

During the flowering period, gardens are watered if the soil is dry and flowering is abundant.

In June - July, the garden usually needs watering if the amount of rainfall is insufficient. Water during this period is required for the growth of shoots, fruits and the laying of fruit buds.

It is recommended to irrigate fruit-bearing gardens during the summer in case of insufficient rainfall five to six times in the southern regions and 3-4 times in the north, and young plantations - 3-4 times more often. With a high yield and a sufficient amount of fertilizers, the number of irrigations should be increased.

Irrigation rates for gardens depend on the age of plants, soil composition, yield, etc. It is believed that for a garden area of ​​5 acres (0.05 ha), an average of 15–30 m3 of water is required per irrigation. Loosening of the soil is necessary 1-2 days after each watering. In the case of mulching the soil, the number of irrigations can be halved.

The amount of water available to plants depends on many factors. Including on the type and depth of the soil, the depth of the root system, the rate of water loss during evaporation, on the temperature and rate of moisture entering the soil.

The rate at which water is extracted from the soil is a function of root concentration. The deeper the root system, the lower the speed. More than 40% of water is extracted from the upper root layer.

The water entering the soil moves at the speed with which the field moisture capacity is created. The movement of water in the soil from bottom to top is carried out by capillary forces. The loss of water to evaporation affects only the upper layers of the soil. During periods of prolonged drought, it is easy to recognize plants with a shallow root system.

The correct watering time is especially important for development vegetable crops and getting the maximum yield. In addition, watering norms must be observed. For example, just wetting the soil surface is not enough for water to penetrate the root system. According to the observations of specialists, a 3-centimeter layer of water penetrates into the soil to a depth of 25 cm. To soak a 0.5 hectare site to such a depth, 130,000 liters of water should be spent. During prolonged drought, frequent light watering does not benefit the plants, since the water does not reach the main volume of the root system, and a hard crust appears on the ground. At the same time, superficial lateral roots are formed in plants, which also suffer during prolonged dry weather.

Sandy soils dry out much faster than clay soils and require more frequent watering. To find out how things are with the soil moisture on the site, you need to dig a hole 20-30 cm deep with a shovel. If the soil at such a depth is slightly wet or dry, you should immediately water it.

Most of all, moisture is required for vegetable crops during intensive growth, that is, from late spring to mid-summer, when the development of plants is determined precisely by the availability of water. In late summer, excess moisture can harm some crops. For example, melons and watermelons are not watered during ripening. Tomatoes can also crack from excess moisture before they turn red. But still, for most plants, watering rates are determined at the rate of 10-15 l / m2 per week. Irrigation rates for ornamental crops are close to those for vegetable crops.

Most of the water is absorbed by plants in spring and summer. Particular attention should be paid to watering when planting trees and shrubs so that the soil fits tightly to their roots. Plants in open ground in summer they naturally dry out under the influence sun rays although they get enough moisture with winter rainfall. It is interesting that a 1 mm layer of rainwater gives 10 m3 per hectare, that is, 10 tons. Snow cover 40 cm thick - 1000 tons of water per hectare, or 100 liters per 1 m2. It is necessary to ensure that the soil near the walls, fences and under the trees fully receives moisture, since there are certain difficulties when watering in these places. Plants in pots and tubs dry out quickly and need regular watering in summer.

How to properly water fruit trees and garden watering video

Lack of water adversely affects the growth, fruiting and winter hardiness of fruit trees. But an excess of moisture is even more destructive for them. In waterlogged soil, gas exchange decreases, vital microbiological processes slow down, the temperature in the habitat of the root system decreases, which can lead to the death of some of the roots. For fruit trees, frequent watering is also harmful when only the surface layer of the soil is moistened. This only brings harm, since it prevents free air exchange. Watering of fruit trees should be carried out to a depth of 60-80 cm. To determine the availability of water in the soil, it is necessary to dig a hole with a scoop to a depth of 40-50 cm, take a lump of earth in a handful and squeeze it tightly. If it retains its shape, then the humidity is normal, and if the earth crumbles in the palm of your hand, watering is required. True, for sandy soil, this method is less indicative.

Before watering fruit trees properly, you need to determine when to do it. Under one of the trees, when planting at a depth of 1–1.5 m, a plastic vessel is buried, half filled with gravel, and then soil from the surface of the site. The vessel is connected with a hose to another, buried nearby at the same level. Above it, a bottle with a capacity of 20 liters is stuck in the ground with the neck down. 2 tubes are passed through the bottle cork: atmospheric air enters one, and the other is lowered into the second plastic vessel.

As the wood depletes moisture, its amount in the first vessel will begin to decrease, and water from the bottle will flow into the second vessel. To know exactly when to start watering, a critical level mark is made on the wall of the bottle. The soil layer in the garden must be moistened to the depth of the vital activity of the root system, for which 600–1000 m3 of water should be consumed per hectare with a single irrigation. If we talk about watering each tree, then for a 3-5-year-old specimen, a single watering should be 5-8 buckets, for a 7-10-year-old - 12-15 buckets, and older trees are watered even more abundantly. For example, with a crown diameter of 3 m, an apple tree needs 20 buckets of water during the first spring irrigation and 30-35 buckets during the second.

And how to water the garden, taking into account the composition of the soil? With light sandy soils, more frequent watering is necessary, but with a lower rate of water consumption; with heavy clayey - rare, but abundant.

Here you can watch a video of watering your garden with the most common method:

Proper watering of vegetable crops

With a lack of moisture in the soil, the growth of cultivated crops stops, water evaporates through the leaves, from the soil surface around the plants.

On a hot day, moisture evaporation can reach 5 l / m2. But this does not mean that vegetable crops need to be watered daily, excessive moisture, as already mentioned, can also inhibit growth.

A lot of water is required for seed germination and normal development of seedlings, but how much depends not only on weather conditions, but also on the type of crops. Leafy vegetables that eat leaves or shoots (cauliflower and cabbage) respond well to frequent, regular watering from the germination phase. The optimal weekly rate during dry periods during the growing season is 10-15 l / m2.

In crops such as peas and beans, excessive soil moisture at the beginning of the growing season can cause increased leaf growth to the detriment of fruit development. In this case, in the germination phase, there is no need for artificial irrigation (except for the drought period), but during flowering and the beginning of fruit formation, watering is required 1-2 times a week at a water consumption of 5-10 l / m2.

According to the rules for watering plants in the garden, it is best to irrigate vegetable crops in the evening or morning hours. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is moistened to a great depth.

When watering vegetable crops, spraying water over the surface often leads to excessive evaporation, and moisture does not even have time to reach the plant root system.

At the same time, evening watering can lead to the development of some diseases of vegetable crops, since the soil may not dry out until morning.

To avoid the need for constant watering, water-retaining measures should be carried out.

On those soils that poorly retain water, deep digging is recommended, which increases the thickness of the root layer and, as a result, the water reserves available to plants. The most effective way to preserve moisture is to add manure, compost, peat, humus to the soil. All organic matter should be thoroughly mixed with the soil.

In order to save moisture, it is important to destroy weeds in time, at the very beginning of their growth. Row spacing and plant spacing in a row also play a role in determining the watering rate. Empirically establish optimal areas nutrition of various vegetable plants.

To reduce water loss from the soil surface, mulching crops with compost or rotted leaves is very effective. The mulching material must be laid out after rain or watering.

To avoid compaction of the top layer of the earth, it must be well loosened before mulching. In addition, the mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds. And if they do appear, it is easier to pull them out of the loose substrate.

Seeds require a certain amount of water to germinate, so the soil must be moist when sowing. Usually it is watered in 1-2 days. In this case, a favorable water-air regime is formed in the soil for the emergence of seedlings. You can water the furrows just before sowing, spending 0.6–0.8 liters per running meter.

After planting seedlings in a permanent place, it must be watered. Before rooting, the water consumption per plant should be 0.1 liters per day, provided that the soil is thoroughly mulched.

For correct watering vegetable crops it is best to moisten not the entire garden bed, but only the root zone. On large areas, such irrigation is uneconomical; in this case, it is recommended to use sprinklers and moisten the soil daily, although this is fraught with overconsumption of water.

Types of watering plants in the garden

There are 4 main types of plant irrigation: surface irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, subsoil irrigation and stream irrigation. With surface irrigation, water is distributed over the soil surface.

When sprinkling under pressure, the water is sprayed as rain. With subsoil irrigation, it flows to the root system of the plant, passing over the impermeable soil layer. With trickle irrigation, water rises under pressure through thin pipes to individual plants.

The simplest type of watering a garden is with a watering can. The garden tools it is on sale in several types of different volumes, but it is more advisable to use a 10-liter watering can on the site. Larger watering cans are difficult to use, while smaller ones require frequent refills.

The watering can should have a comfortable handle and a long spout. Most watering cans are equipped with fine-hole or mesh nozzles that are used when watering seeds and seedlings. They start it on one side, carry a watering can over the seedlings, trying to maintain a constant pressure of water.

Known to all gardeners such a method of moistening the soil in the area, as watering from a hose, which is connected to a water tap or a drain tap from a container. When using the hose, make sure that the water jet does not wash away the soil or expose the roots of the plants.

How to properly water the plants in the garden with a hose? When watering vegetable crops, it is necessary to guide the hose to the aisles to ensure a quick flow of water to the root system of the plants. The hose should not be kinked at the folds, then it will retain its elasticity for several years. Nylon braided hoses are considered the most durable.

Many people use hoses for irrigation with holes made at different angles.

Such perforated hoses are laid across the irrigated area and are constantly transferred from place to place to uniformly moisten the soil.

A sprinkler can be connected to the hose. The oscillating type sprinkler consists of a perforated tube swinging from side to side and distributing water along a rectangular or square bed. The rotary type sprinkler sprays water through one or more nozzles, which make a circular motion under the pressure of water. Both types of sprinklers are installed in parks, lawns and summer cottages and backyards. In this case, the uniformity of irrigation is determined by the amount of water falling into empty cans, placed along the perimeter or circumference of the site.

Long tubes with fine holes for drip irrigation are used to gradually distribute the water supplied to flower gardens, greenhouses and potted plants.

The listed methods mainly relate to watering vegetable and ornamental crops.

Watering methods for plants in the garden

There are some peculiarities in the technique of watering a fruit-bearing garden. If the garden is large, the trees are watered along the furrows between the rows.

At the same time, the distance between furrows on light soils should be 70-80 cm, on heavy (clay) - up to 1.5 m.The depth of the furrows is 20-25 cm, width - 0.5 m.

But in gardens in summer cottages and household plots, as a rule, watering of trees is traditionally carried out in near-trunk circles, or rather, in ditches dug along their circumference. After watering, the circular ditches are covered with earth. Do not water trees in the grooves of the trunk circle, dug in the form of a funnel. In this case, the water does not reach the end roots of the tree, and watering closer to the trunk has no practical benefit.

Subsoil irrigation is very effective for watering your garden. For example, on each square meter a hole with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm is drilled with a soil drill, which is clogged with crushed stone, broken brick or coarse sand.

Trees are watered precisely through such wells, through which liquid fertilizers are also applied. At the same time, a crust does not form on the surface, and all nutrients and precious moisture penetrate immediately into the deep layers of the soil. Such holes can perform their functions for a long time.

A simpler method of watering plants is to punch holes for irrigation with scrap and then fill them with earth.

Often, gardeners water trees with a hose, throwing it into a circle near the trunk, while doing other things. After a while, the hose is moved to the trunk circle of another tree, completely disregarding the amount of water that entered the roots of the first tree. And determining the norm is not difficult at all. You just need to know how many buckets are needed to water a particular tree and the time it takes to fill one bucket from a hose. Then it will be possible to judge the amount of water that entered the trunk circle.

The timing of watering for the garden also has its own peculiarity. The most optimal for fruit trees in the central regions of Russia are the following:

• in spring, before budding on trees, when rapid growth begins, and there is not enough water in the soil;
• 15-20 days after the end of the flowering of trees, since at this time the ovaries of fruits start to grow, which fall off with insufficient moisture;
• 15-20 days before harvesting the fruits, but not when they ripen;
• in late autumn, in October, during the period of leaf fall (such pre-winter watering is called moisture charging).

Garden watering systems

When choosing a source of drinking water supply for a country or manor house, one should take into account the local conditions that determine the choice of a particular water intake system. This requires the calculation of water consumption rates, which depend not only on the level of home improvement, but also on the availability of a vegetable garden, a garden, a subsidiary farm. It is necessary to take into account the significant water consumption for household needs.

Very often, water is supplied to the centralized water supply system according to a certain schedule. Therefore, it is recommended to have a guaranteed supply of it on the site. In most cases, when organizing a garden irrigation system, preference is given to underground sources.

For irrigation water supply, a special water supply system is sometimes arranged with water supply through ground pipes or special watercourses.

It is good to water the garden and vegetable garden with rainwater, which should be collected and stored in open tanks installed in places where it flows from the roofs.

In shallow places groundwater arrange small-pipe wells for one or several adjacent sections.

Refreshing watering in summer

In order for fruit and berry crops to receive moisture in time and with high quality, the gardener needs to know and apply several types of watering. Each of these species is suitable for a particular time of the year and plays a special role in the development of the plant and its protection from adverse conditions.

Summer watering(summer watering, seasonal watering) is also called regular, or vegetative, regular watering. It is carried out not only in the summer months, but throughout the entire active growing season (from the end of the spring frosts to the beginning of the first autumn frosts). Trees and shrubs begin to need watering immediately after the onset of warm sunny days, when their buds and flowers bloom, shoots come to life. But with a sufficient thickness of snow cover in the first days of the warm period, watering is sometimes not needed: plants feed on moisture from melting snow.

Refreshing watering, or sprinkling, is carried out in hot weather. This type of irrigation is not acceptable for all crops. Sprinkling should not be done during particularly hot hours. This type of irrigation increases the humidity of the air and somewhat reduces its temperature. Sprinkling is finely dispersed watering, so you need to use a sprayer, sprayer or a special nozzle on the hose, you just can't water the plants from above with streams of water.

Fertilizing watering Is a special purpose watering, a method of applying liquid fertilizers to the soil. But simultaneously with the receipt of nutrients with such watering, the tree or shrub also receives the moisture it needs.

Moisture-charging autumn watering of trees in the garden

Moisture-charging (podzimny) watering is used in the fall. It is necessary to create a moisture reserve in the soil. In autumn, after the end of fruiting, trees and shrubs begin to actively develop their absorbing roots, accumulate nutrients in tissues. Although there may be almost no active suction zone at the roots, all of the above processes require a constant optimum soil moisture. In summer, the soil layer, in which the plant roots are located, dries up to a large extent, therefore, before starting to prepare for the cold season, this layer needs high-quality moisture. The roots of plants, which begin to experience a moisture deficit by the fruiting period, also need water-charging irrigation. At the same time, in the fall, mechanical absorption of moisture begins to prevail (through the pores in the wood of the roots), and not physiological (with the help of active absorbing roots).

After properly carried out autumn watering of trees, the soil becomes more resistant to cold snap, gives off heat more slowly (i.e., after watering, its heat capacity increases). The plants themselves, with their buds, tolerate lower temperatures better.

Water-charging irrigation begins in the second half of September and ends in early October. These irrigations should not depend on rains that occur or are absent during the specified period: even heavy downpours cannot compensate for the lack of moisture in the root layer of the soil, therefore this type of irrigation should be carried out in any weather.

During the autumn watering of the garden, the soil is moistened to a sufficiently large depth (more than with summer watering). Each plant has its own recommendations for carrying out water-charging irrigation, including the depth of soil wetting and the depth of the annular irrigation groove. The fact is that the soil must be moistened to a depth of 90-100 cm, and it is impossible to achieve this with ordinary surface irrigation, therefore ring grooves are necessary (the only exception can be sandy soils, grooves are needed even on light loams). Have different plants the root system is located at different distances from the soil surface, therefore, the depth of the grooves, for example, for apple and cherry trees, will not be the same. The grooves are dug around the trunk at a distance of 60–80 cm from each other.

How to water the trees in the garden according to the norms? The watering rate is determined in liters for each tree, depending on its breed and age (fruiting or young). The rate can be reduced if, during the main growing season, seasonal watering was carried out regularly and abundantly. In this case, first check the condition of the soil, digging it up with a shovel. Unlike summer watering, the soil is soaked not only to the depth of placement of thin roots, but a little deeper (by about 10 cm). After watering, the grooves are filled (if necessary) with fertilizer and leveled with a hoe.

Moisture-charging watering of trees is carried out by uniformly moistening the soil in the near-trunk circle, pouring water into specially made wells in the near-trunk circle or into a furrow that is dug around the near-trunk circle. The main thing is that the soil is saturated with water to a great depth, up to the root zone.

In this case, you should be careful: you cannot overmoisten the soil, that is, when sprinkling, water should flow in small quantities and through a very fine mesh of the sprayer. It is also important to know that the most dangerous effect on plants is night frosts (before 5 am).

Anti-freeze watering: how to water plants before frost

Anti-freeze watering (watering before frost) is carried out in early spring and in late autumn to protect the vegetative parts of plants from frost. Fruit and berry crops are especially susceptible to frost damage during the period of flowering and the formation of an ovary: the yield may not only decrease, but completely die.

Water has a high heat capacity; when temperatures drop, it releases heat, increasing the thermal conductivity of the soil after the latter is moistened. In spring, mild frosts affect plants less if the soil under them is moderately moist. In autumn, the danger is reduced due to the heat storage associated with the heat capacity of the water. Water for watering plants before frost when low temperatures air (but not negative - in this case, watering is contraindicated) is often warmer than the soil and air, that is, it is itself a source of heat. In this case, the leaves can be completely moistened using a sprayer or a spray nozzle on the hose. But this event is effective only in the absence of the threat of severe frosts. Anti-freeze sprinkling irrigation is carried out at a temperature not colder than -2 ... -7 ° C. The temperature is monitored precisely at the level of the location of the flowers and buds of the plant. At negative temperatures, sprinkling allows the formation of an ice crust on the leaves, under which the temperature does not drop below 0 ° C, due to which the vegetative parts of the plant do not freeze.

Watering before frost begins about two days before the onset of cold weather. For sprinkling, spray nozzles are used, usually located on automatic irrigation devices. The fact is that during freezing, sprinkling should not be interrupted for more than 20–40 minutes, otherwise the air temperature may drop sharply, and the opposite (negative) effect of the procedure will occur. Therefore, sprinkling should be continuous, in extreme cases it can be carried out intermittently for several minutes.

Watering methods for the garden and garden: surface method and sprinkling system

There are three methods for watering a garden: surface irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, and subsoil irrigation.

There are several surface irrigation methods, for garden plot not all of them are suitable.

1. Surface furrow irrigation. It is carried out as follows. In the row spacing, furrows are made with a width of 20-30 cm with a slight slope, into which water is supplied from a watering hose. At the end of watering, after a while, the furrows are closed.

2. Surface watering in bowls. When using this method, a bowl-shaped hole is dug under the crown of a fruit tree. The size of the bowl, that is, its diameter, depends on the age of the tree, planting density, but it should not be less than the projection of the crown of the tree itself. Along the edges of the finished hole, an earthen roller 20-25 cm high is poured. The bowls under the neighboring trees are connected by a common groove. Water is fed into this groove from a watering hose, and already along the groove, water enters the wells.

When using sprinkler irrigation, moisture enters not only the soil, but also into the air. Water entering the soil through the air is enriched with oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen compounds. The difference between sprinkler irrigation and surface irrigation is that surface irrigation requires careful planning and leveling of the land plot. This is due to the fact that during irrigation water does not move over the soil surface, thereby not washing away its fertile layer.

Before watering the garden with sprinkling, they must loosen the soil, and if necessary, apply fertilizers. For such irrigation, you will need special devices - sprinklers. These devices can be fan-shaped, pulsed, or in the form of a pistol. They spray water at different heights and in different directions, and the height, direction and even the size of the drops can be adjusted. The devices are installed under the crowns of shrubs and fruit trees and are used for watering the surface layer.

Water the garden, lawns and flower beds by sprinkling only in the evening, when there is no bright sun. If you do this during the day, the leaves of the plants will get burned, as the water droplets act as collecting lenses and focus the sun's rays.

Irrigation methods for an orchard

There are several ways to irrigate a garden, the most popular of which are semi-soil and drip.

Subsoil irrigation. When using this method of irrigation, a system of pottery, asbestos-cement or polyethylene pipes is used, through the holes of which water is supplied under pressure to the soil. Sometimes, with such irrigation of the orchard, fertilizers are supplied to the roots of the plant along with water.

The main disadvantage of this method is its high cost. Laying pipes throughout the site is a very laborious process and should be carried out at the planning and construction stage of the garden plot. Moreover, the quality irrigation water often leaves much to be desired, so the pipes serve for a relatively short time, quickly become clogged and silted.

Drip irrigation. This is a type of subsoil irrigation. This method is very convenient and easy to implement. Drip irrigation is carried out through a system of small diameter plastic pipes. 2-3 droppers are placed under one fruit tree or berry bush at a depth of 30-35 cm. The advantage of this type of irrigation is that water consumption is reduced several times, and it is also possible to constantly maintain the required soil moisture. In addition, fertilization can be carried out along with the water supply.

Rules for watering plants in the garden and in the garden

Rational watering of plants according to the rules includes several mandatory components.

1. Optimum temperature water for irrigation.

2. Watering method. Watering at the root and together with leaves is possible, as well as sprinkling (watering through a sprayer from above). Sprinkling can be not only superficial (with wetting of leaves and branches), but also basal - in this case, only the soil in the near-trunk circle is wetted, but with the help of sprinkler nozzles, due to which the soil is not washed out and washed out of it nutrients due to the high water pressure. For different plants in different periods of the year, these types of watering are required in different proportions.

3. Watering time. Watering is usually done in the morning or evening. In the hot period of the day, when sprinkling, burns may appear on the leaves, and it is better to water at the root not in the midst of the day.

4. Amount of water. Watering rates usually indicate either a unit of area or a single plant. For trees and large shrubs, the latter option is more typical.

5. But there are also general rules glaze applicable for all fruit and berry crops.

6. The moisture content of the soil should be optimal. Waterlogged soil is a serious problem, as is drying out of the soil, since it can reduce the plant's resistance to pests and diseases, and impair soil aeration. The lump of optimally moistened soil should be compressed in the hand without releasing water and without crumbling. This figure is suitable even for sandy soils.

7. The rate of moisture absorption by the soil depends on the mechanical composition of the soil. Heavy loams are impregnated with water more slowly, so it is better to moisten the soil not with too much water pressure (for a longer time), but using more of it. Sandy soils need to be watered more often, since moisture is not able to linger for a long time in such soils, and the soil dries out faster. Observing this rule of watering the garden, clay soils are watered less often so as not to cause waterlogging, because moisture can "stand" in them for a long time.

8. Watering woody plants should be sparse and abundant. Frequent watering "little by little" is more harmful than beneficial. Watering is carried out, as a rule, to the depth of occurrence of active (thin, absorbent) plant roots.

9. Average rate of one-time watering for trees aged 3-5 years is 50–80 liters per plant or more. The same indicator for trees aged 7-10 years is equal to 120-150 liters.

10. Fruiting trees and shrubs need more abundant watering than young plants of the same species.

11. Any root watering(not only moisture charging) can be carried out into the annular grooves. After watering, fertilizers are poured into the grooves, if necessary, covered with soil or mulching material.

12. Trees and shrubs should not be watered in a near-trunk funnel., and even more so pour water on the root collar of the tree. With such watering, moisture will flow in excess to the main (tap) root and in a deficiency - to the peripheral (active) roots. But it is the peripheral roots that are absorbing, that is, they absorb the main amount of nutrients and moisture for the plant. Therefore, the main place for watering is a circle, which is a projection of the crown onto the surface of the earth, as well as the soil near this circle. In general, watering in the near-stem circle should be uniform, without "dry" places.

13. An unusual but effective way of watering- with the help of pre-drilled holes under the tree with a diameter of 10–12 cm and the depth required for irrigation of a certain culture. Wells are made with a drill and filled with pebbles, crushed stone, bricks or coarse sand. One well is arranged per m2 of the area of ​​the near-trunk circle.

14. For regular watering with a hose it is difficult to determine the amount of water that has entered the soil. Before starting such irrigation, by turning on the water at a certain pressure, you can calculate how long it will take for water with such a pressure to fill a container, for example, with a volume of 10 liters. Then, by simple calculations, it is easy to find out how long it will take to water a particular plant in this way.

15. Seasonal watering is essential., as a rule, during the following vegetation periods of trees and shrubs: before spring budding; 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering; 2-3 weeks before harvest. The rest of the time, watering is carried out as needed and for special purposes (water-charging, anti-freeze, refreshing, fertilizing).

16. Nutritional area of ​​a tree or shrub usually determined approximately by the diameter of the crown (slightly wider than the projection of the crown onto the surface of the earth). This indicator is useful to know for calculating watering.

17. If during watering a young tree or shrub surface roots are exposed, they should be immediately covered with moist soil.

To understand whether a particular plant needs watering, it is necessary to assess the condition of the soil next to it. Its moisture content should not be determined by the top layer, which is most often dry (this is due to the fact that most of the moisture from the soil surface is lost during evaporation). You should pay attention to the active layer of soil, where the root system of the plant is located. If we talk about fruit trees such as apple and pear, then this layer is located at a depth of 90-120 cm, for cherries, plums and apricots - at a depth of 80 cm, for berry crops - 50 cm.

To assess the moisture content of the soil along the periphery of the crown of the plant, dig a small hole up to 1 m deep, take a lump of soil from the wall of the hole and squeeze it in your hand. If a lump forms and does not break when dropped from a height of 1.5 m, then the soil moisture is about 70%. If a lump of earth is crumbling, it means that the soil needs to be watered.

The optimal level of soil moisture is considered to be a level equal to 75-80%. To keep moisture in the soil for as long as possible, after watering it is loosened and peat or rotted sawdust is introduced into it.

How to properly water trees and other plants in the garden

And a few more tips on how to properly water your garden to ensure profuse flowering and good productivity.

First watering is necessary for plants in spring, when the buds have not blossomed. During this period, the phase of its active growth begins, and it really needs moisture.

Second watering should be carried out approximately 15-20 days after the end of the growing season of trees and shrubs, since it is at this time that the ovaries grow, and if the soil is too dry, then the newly set fruits may fall off.

Third watering spend 15-20 days before removing fruits from trees and shrubs.

If the third watering is carried out immediately before harvesting, then this can lead to falling and cracking of the fruits.

And the last watering is carried out in late autumn, when active leaf fall begins. It is also called moisture charging.

Early varieties of apple and pear trees require less water than later varieties.

If pear trees are over-watered, they can suffer from excess moisture.

Stone fruit tree species (apricot, cherry, plum) should be watered less frequently than pome fruit (apple, pear).

Expecting a rich harvest from certain trees or shrubs, special attention should be paid to watering these particular trees or shrubs. They will need more water than trees with lower yields or those that rest from fruiting.

Rainwatering can help save buds from frost, which often occurs in spring. Swollen buds and flower buds are the most vulnerable parts of fruit trees, and they must be protected from exposure to low and freezing temperatures to preserve the harvest.

Young fruit trees need to be watered less than adults. This is especially true in the second half of summer, since excess moisture will provoke additional growth of shoots that will freeze out during the winter.

With frequent use of fertilizers and the accumulation of salts in the soil of the garden, which harms the growth of most plants, flush watering is carried out. A large amount of water washes the salts dissolved in it to a great depth, clearing the soil layer in which the bulk of the roots is located. For flushing irrigation, 2000-8000 liters of water are consumed for every 10 m2 of soil. The need for it may arise if mineral fertilizers, natural organic fertilizers(compost, manure, peat) do not cause such an effect, although they also need to be dosed.

How to understand that we have a plant suffering from waterlogging? Falling leaves is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they literally fall off - they darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (aglaonema, dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but they still hold on to the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but at first they become discolored, becoming pale yellow. But in other cases, a characteristic difference between leaves that die from waterlogging is leaf darkening. The leaf does not just turn yellow, it just darkens, the color turns from a healthy juicy green muddy-bog shade, gradually turns into brown. If overmoistening was preceded by overdrying, then the leaf first turns yellow, then the leaf petiole and the leaf itself darken.

Decayed roots exfoliate, the top layer of the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers, leaving a thin, hard core. These roots all died from waterlogging.

And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, some plants have juicy Brown color.

Sudden or gradual flying around leaves, blackening of shoots, damp sour earth ...

The trunk still seems alive, green, but the roots have rotted, the plant can no longer be saved.

When there is not enough water for the plant, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissue may lose elasticity, droop, or may remain dry. After watering, the turgor is restored, the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then mezhilkovy chlorosis may appear, the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When waterlogged, the leaves may lose their elasticity, droop, but after watering the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur from watering. cold water... Ideally, the water temperature for irrigation should be 2-3 ° C higher than the room temperature, but not lower than 22 ° C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, it causes the death of the suction roots from hypothermia, and, as a result, leaves fall.

As for the hardness of the water, it cannot be the reason for the sudden fall of leaves and the death of the plant. If you water the plants with hard water, even the most capricious ones that are sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to lose their leaves en masse. All harm manifests itself gradually: first, chlorosis spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks depressed, but leaves do not fall off.

In case of massive leaf fall, when the leaves fall off not one after another, but dozens at once, the reasons may be as follows: sudden hypothermia (for example, when transporting home), watering with concentrated fertilizer (burning roots), severe drying out, and only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes fly around en masse (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from waterlogging, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. It is not always possible to feel the soil with your finger at a depth (for example, the roots have grown a lot), and only after taking the plant out of the pot, you can determine whether the earth is wet inside the root ball.

Some growers pull until the last, not wanting to take out the plant and examine the roots. They are either selflessly confident that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, do not even hesitate - remove and inspect the roots. Sometimes the root system of plants grows in this way: at the top, the roots are not thick, the soil dries out easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot the roots twist a tight ring, the interlacing of the roots makes it difficult to dry, and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small, clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.

On tangerine, the result of waterlogging and acidification of the earth. Chlorosis is a lack of various trace elements.

Such a deplorable state is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp earth on a cold balcony, on the street.

There is also a deplorable symptom, characteristic of the strongest prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and wilting of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture has occurred, then the case is already very much neglected, often it is simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all the shoots have rotted (turned yellow or darkened), there is nothing to save. A similar picture is possible only with strong hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when overdrying. When dry, wilting begins from old leaves, from the lower shoots, the trunk is bare from below. When waterlogged, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.

And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaena, dieffenbachia, any succulents (fat women, adeniums, etc.), cacti are a sure sign of excess moisture.

Another symptom, which is not entirely correct and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think, is the presence of mushroom mosquitoes. If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too abundantly, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps it has become a habit of over-watering. Unlike mosquitoes, podura (colembola) are white or dirty gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the earth in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is flooded more than once.

Rescue measures for flooded plants

When you nevertheless establish that the plant has been flooded, you need to urgently take action. If you have established the fact of waterlogging after you removed the plant from the pot, then you have to transplant. If the fact of waterlogging was determined by indirect signs (leaf fall, damp earth to the touch), then the need for a transplant depends on the severity of the situation that has arisen.

• If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch has withered in the mighty crown, and the soil in the pot is light enough, then you can not replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially abundant watering, the soil spreads, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, then the roots suffer from lack of air. If the seedlings are watered, then the seedlings may not come to the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
• If there are small drainage holes in the pot, you can widen them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
• Personally, I never try to just loosen the ground, it is not too reliable and justified in cases where a flooded plant in a very large pot, transplanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very rise in temperature will accelerate the drying of the earth.
• In all other cases, it is better to transplant the plant.

Signs of a bay in orchids - the leaves of the phalaenopsis turn yellow, they are lethargic, wrinkled. The bark dries for a very long time, the roots rot from constant contact with a damp surface.

Rotten roots must be pruned. In some cases, the new pot will have to be made smaller than it was before.

So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the soil and roots. Is the earth still damp and how much? Count when you last watered and how much it dried. Sometimes a person is convinced that the soil is dry for a long time, say, a week has passed after watering, and upon examination it turns out that the soil inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this, or calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, bays happen systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically revise the system of care: perhaps change the soil in the pots to a more structured, loose one, increase the drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; move the plants to a warmer room or water less often when the ground dries out more. Sometimes you literally have to slap yourself on the hands so that you do not rise with a watering can above the plant ahead of time ...

Examine the roots. Rotten can be seen right away - they delaminate, if you grab the root with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, under it there is a bundle of blood vessels that looks like a wire, a hard rod. If such a stratification occurs, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not exfoliate; if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not come off. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy succulent roots rot completely, and this can also be seen immediately - they are dark, dirty gray or brown in color, sometimes softened. Often, healthy roots and rotten ones can be identified by the contrast in appearance, some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only outside, but also at breaks or cliffs.

There are times when rotten roots easily break off and, when the plant is removed from the pot, fall off along with the ground. If you did not find definitely rotten roots, but the earth and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we blot with a bark ball in any hygroscopic material: in a heap of old newspapers, in a roll toilet paper... You can even put a plant with an open root system (without a pot) to dry for several hours.

Having found rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many of them. This is the source of the infection, there is nothing to regret. We cut everything to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cuts with charcoal (wood, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If neither is available, crush an activated charcoal tablet. If there are very few roots left, much less than there were, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.

I have already said that too spacious a pot itself, not filled with roots, does not contribute to the rapid growth of plants, and in some cases even hurts. In a spacious pot, the plant is easier to pour. And even if watered carefully, the plant seeks to build up the root system, to master a large surface of the earth, and only then enhances the growth of the ground part.

Substrate for aroid, bromeliad and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, a substrate: earth, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine cork, pine bark and moss (its very small). The decaying anthurium transplanted into this mixture bloomed in a month and releases a third bud.

If you have a tendency to flood your plants, use clay pots to plant your plants. But there is one important point: the inside of the pot must not be glazed. If the walls of a clay pot are covered with glaze from the inside, it is no better than a plastic one.

So, you need to pick up a pot for the root ball remaining after removing the rot. In this case, the rule will be effective: a smaller pot is better than a larger one. It's okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, they will notify you with their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant into a larger pot and that's it. During the growing season, plants can be transplanted at any time and more than once. Most plants, if they get sick after transplanting, stop growing, then this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.

After transplanting, you cannot put the plants in the sun, even the most light-loving ones, they should be shaded for a week. You cannot water the plants on the same day, especially those reanimated from overflow - these are generally watered for the first time in 2-3 days. Do not fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting patients (including flooded ones), you can not add dry fertilizers (no manure, no dung, no granular fertilizers). Do not seal the transplanted plant in a plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes a real evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, devoid of watering, in the first days must be placed in conditions high humidity... And many tend to shove the plant in a bag and tie it tighter. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But oxygen access is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes with roots and leaves, if the plant was flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms have developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then it simply needs fresh air!

Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten its edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray it 1-2 times a day, if the plants do not tolerate water getting on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide tray of water on an inverted saucer.

If the plant has rotten tops, the ends of the shoots, they must be cut to healthy tissues. If there is an opportunity, at the same time, cut the healthy branches for rooting in order to be able to preserve at least something, if the bay has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots are still vigorous until they fade (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be cut from them. In some cases, when the roots decay, toxins (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of the activity of bacteria and fungi) and cuttings get into the vascular system of plants, and cuttings, even healthy-looking ones, do not take root, they are already doomed ...

After transplanting, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only in the dark (most stimulants decompose in the light). If the leaves have dark spots, decayed tops of the shoots, it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add the fungicide to the water for irrigation. Suitable fungicides: Fundazol, Maxim, Hom, Oxyhom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh dry soil, the plant can be watered with zircon solution.

If a plant with a wide rosette of leaves, in the form of a funnel, like bromeliads, then it is necessary to dry the base of the leaves, turned out to be flooded. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with its leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, gently remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in the winter.

Another important point: after the flooding, the soil in the pot sours: the roots of plants continue to emit carbon dioxide, humus renewal slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients pass into a form indigestible to plants. For example, iron transforms into an oxidized form (F3 +), from which a rusty brown crust forms on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not assimilated, as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: there are signs of deficiency of calcium, iron, nitrogen. At this stage, some growers do not pay attention to the condition of the soil, and are in a hurry to treat the effect, not the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer, turn yellow. At times, it gets better (for example, after spraying with ferovite), and after fertilizing the soil, it gets even worse.

In such a situation, the only way out is to completely replace the land. And if you are in a hurry to apply fertilizers, then it is advisable to rinse the roots when transplanting under a stream of warm water. Then dry, remove rotten ones, sprinkle with charcoal and plant in fresh, dry soil.

If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth dries for a long time! Such a salt crust must be removed, the top layer of the earth must be replaced with a fresh one.

Olga Gorbatova
Labor in nature "Teaching children to water indoor plants" ( younger group)

Program tasks:

Learn children practical skills watering

To acquaint children with the structure of the labor process

To cultivate an attitude towards plants as to living beings, to bring up the desire to regret plant, effectively help him

Vocabulary work:

Plant, watering can, pot with a tray, stem, leaves, root, to water, moist earth, beautiful, healthy.

Equipment:

Models labor process, apron, oilcloth, watering can with water, flower in a pot with a pallet

Aprons, oilcloths, watering cans, flowers in pots with a pallet

Preliminary work:

Observing plant(acquaintance with the features of appearance, structure, observation plant in favorable and unfavorable conditions (lack of moisture, monitoring the labor of a teacher on watering plants in a corner of nature(acquaintance with the model labor process)

OD move

Organization children:

Children stand at the tables arranged with the letter P

Introductory part

Children, Mishka came to us and brought a flower with him.

The bear greets the children.

Guys, let's ask Mishka why he is so sad, not funny?

Teddy bear says he is sad because his beloved the plant was so beautiful, as in the picture (shows the model, now it has become like this (shows plant) ... Mishka says that he does not know what happened to him, sorry for him plant, that's why he is sad.

And you feel sorry for Mishkino plant? (yes, sorry)

Let's take pity on Mishka with you, say gentle words to him, don't cry Mishka, we will help you, and you will be cheerful, joyful again.

Children, why Mishkino the plant became like this? What did he forget to do?

Let's hear what it asks for plant.

The plant asks so that it poured and then it will get better.

Guys, Mishka says he can't water and now probably his the plant will die.

Children, can we help Mishka? (Can)

How? (we can teach him water the plant)

Goal setting:

Let's teach the Bear correctly water the plant

Children, we want plant how did you feel? (Good)

To make it what it is? (talking to the children; so that plant felt good with the leaves looking up, so that the stem was looking up, so that the ground was moist). In order not to forget about it, let's put a picture (model - plant in good condition)

Which plant now? (examination is underway plants: state of leaves, stem, ground). In order not to forget which plant now, put a picture (model - plant in an unfavorable state). Plant you need to help sooner. To do this, you need to choose the right tools.

Children, Bear says that he knows what to do.

Look, he brought a watering can. Look, the watering can has a handle so we can hold the watering can, the watering can has a spout, water is pouring out of the spout, there is a hole, water is poured into this hole.

Children, what is missing in Mishka's watering can? (water)

What kind of watering can you need to take? In order not to forget that you need to take a watering can with water, put a picture (model - means labor: watering can)

Now what are we going to do?

Children, Bear says that he remembered how to water and wants to show us (Bear holds the watering can with one hand, pours water on the leaves, at the root, wants to pour out all the water from the watering can at once).

Bear, you are not right watering the plant... You cannot pour water under the root and on the leaves, and immediately pour out all the water from the watering can. The plant may die.

Look, children how I will water the plant... Before starting work, I will put on an apron so as not to wet and stain my clothes. The flower is in a pot with a pallet on oilcloth. I take a watering can with some water, I put the watering can spout to the edge of the pot, pour the water slowly, gradually until the water appears on the pan.

In order not to forget that the plant needs to be watered, put the picture(model labor actions) .

Children what will become plant if we pour it right? ( plant will be in good condition, the stem will be even, the drooping sluggish leaves will also rise, they will be even, elastic.)

In order not to forget, we will put a picture (model - plant in good condition)

Anchoring

Before starting work, what will we do? (put on an apron)

How are we going to hold the watering can? (spout at the edge of the pot)

How much water will we pour? (until water appears on the pallet)

What will become plant after watering? (plant will be in good condition)

Independent work

Teddy bear, to your we helped the plant, now it will get better.

Some the plants in our group need help too, water them so that they do not become like in the picture (I show the model - plant in an unfavorable state)

Children, would you like to help?

Then you need to find plants who are thirsty. Here's how in the picture (the model is shown plants in an unfavorable state)

The bear, together with the teacher, is watching child labor, ask clarifying questions. When difficulties I come to help the children.

I remind the children that it is time to finish work and that it is necessary to bring workplace in order.

Didactic game "Where is the bear hiding?"

Didactic task: specify the name of acquaintances plants

Game rule: find Bear

Game action: finding the playable character and naming plants behind which he hid

Children, soon ours plants become as beautiful, healthy as in the picture (showing the model - plant in a favorable state)

They will feel good about themselves. We have done two good deeds today: helped plants and taught Mishka to water his plant.

The bear says thank you to all of you, now his plant will feel good. He's very happy about that. Now Mishka has learned water the plant, and will always take care of him so that it is in good condition and pleases with its beauty.

Children, are you glad you helped plants? (emotionally share the joy children)

For any indoor plant, the correct or incorrect care is almost always related to the quality of watering. The ability to find a balance, to approach the process of soil moistening reasonably, not to go to extremes and "listen" to plants is the main rule of correct watering. But not the only one. After all, to find the golden mean between poor and over-watering is not easy at all. Basic rules for watering indoor plants will avoid major mistakes with this important procedure. Let's get to know them better.

1. Good watering starts with water quality

Indoor plants should not be watered with water with untested characteristics, especially tap water, not settled, cold or hot. The water temperature should match the room temperature. It is necessary to defend it before watering for at least 2-3 days.

The ideal option is melt, rainwater (subject to a favorable environmental situation) or filtered "drinking" water. It is better not to water indoor plants with boiled water (with rare exceptions), and mineralization is generally strictly prohibited. Distilled water may be needed for some plants.

2. Watering should be done only when needed.

Checking the degree of drying out of the substrate and controlling the rate of moisture consumption by the plant at different stages of development will allow avoiding gross errors with watering. Whatever the standard recommendations, you need to judge the need for watering only by the soil.

Before taking up the watering can, it is worth checking whether the plant needs watering:

• Check the moisture content of the upper layer of the substrate (superficially and at a depth of 1 to 2 cm, lightly rubbing the ground between the fingers;
• Compare whether the pot has become lighter (the weight of the pot before and after watering is significantly different).

3. No watering for everyone at once!

Allocating a specific day / days of the week for watering and watering all plants indiscriminately at the same time is the biggest mistake. This is certainly more convenient. But indoor plants are all different, and it is also worth watering them at different times.

Indoor plants can be grouped according to the degree of moisture-loving (moisture-loving, moderately moisture-loving or drought-resistant) and even by origin (desert, subtropical, tropical). But it's better to check the individual variety and species recommendations and make a schedule for each plant.

A good strategy is to keep simple records or tables, or use tags and labels on pots with information about:

• how often and abundantly you need to water the plant at different stages of development;
• how much water can be left in the pallets;
• what should be the water.

Always highlight plants with special "markers" that are watered through trays, using the wick method, pouring water into the funnels of leaves, or by dipping.

4. Extremes are unacceptable

Drought and waterlogging are two poles in determining improper irrigation. And both are considered invalid. The substrate for any indoor plant should not be wet in the upper 2-3 cm longer than a few minutes after watering.

Even for moisture-loving species, the top layer of the substrate should be allowed to dry before the next watering. And for drought-resistant and requiring minimal watering plants, you should not bring the matter to the complete drying of the substrate at the bottom of the pot (except for the bulbous and tuberous wintering in complete dryness, and capable of withstanding the dryness of the cacti).

Emergencies, including departures, happen to all growers. But if regular care is negligent, to allow constant overflows or underfill plants, then you should not expect health and beauty from them.

In watering indoor plants, one rule always works: not adding a little is always better than overdoing it with the amount of water.

5. Frequency and abundance of watering are equally important.

Watering is frequent (daily or every other day), medium or moderately frequent (after 2-3 days) and rare (no more than once a week). But besides the frequency for all indoor plants, the quality of the soil getting wet is also important.

How strongly the substrate will be saturated with water - the abundance of watering - is determined by the several top centimeters of the soil. Abundant or generous watering immediately makes the soil very wet, after a couple of minutes - damp, and only after a while - wet.

With standard moderate watering, the soil is never soggy: after sputum, it should become evenly moist in a couple of minutes. And light watering is such in which the soil with a little dampness immediately becomes wet.

Determine the degree of moisture tactilely:

• wet soil "drips", when the substrate is squeezed, drops of water appear;
• damp soil crumples easily and sticks;
• wet rolls down, wrinkles, but does not stick to the hand;
• dry - crumbles when squeezed.

Any watering is considered correct only when the amount of water allows the entire earthen lump to be wetted evenly, to the lowest layers - so that a little water is released from the drainage holes not immediately, but some time after watering.

Too fast drainage or lack of water in the sump, signaling water impermeability or inability to retain water in the substrate, are equally undesirable.

For high-quality irrigation, it is better to divide the water into several passes and observe the saturation of the earthen clod, giving the water a chance not to pour out immediately, but to be evenly distributed.

6. Scattering and neatness is the best watering strategy

Watering should not be done in one place with a strong jet of water, which compacts and erodes the substrate. For watering, it is advisable to use convenient watering cans specially designed for indoor plants with scattering nozzles. It is necessary to direct the water along the perimeter of the pot, not high, avoiding the formation of pits, slowly, without "puddles" and water accumulation above the soil.

Particular attention should be paid to accuracy: not all indoor plants are sensitive to wetting, but none will thank you with decorativeness when watering carelessly. Water should not be directed to the trunks and under the roots, to the root collars and growth points, to soak and spray the leaves.

If there are signs of soil compaction, crusting, poor saturation of the substrate, you should immediately take care of loosening. In case of severe pollution or mold, change the topsoil.

7. Watering should not be done in the middle of the day.

Indoor plants are best watered in the early morning or evening during the warm season and only in the early morning during cold seasons. Watering should not be carried out in direct sun, in the middle of the day.

8. Water should not stagnate in the trays

Even for plants requiring immersion or sump watering, the amount of time to leave water in the outer container should be limited. With classic overhead watering, any remaining water in the trays should be drained after 5-8 minutes.

Even 10 minutes of stagnation of water in the lower part of the substrate and oversaturation of drainage with water can lead to the onset of negative processes for rot-sensitive species.

9. Correction of watering at the slightest change

Watering is rarely possible with an established frequency. If the weather is hot, heating works harder, air humidity drops, the plant is actively developing, watering needs to be increased. But not in abundance, but in frequency, compensating for all factors.

It should always be remembered that numerous other factors affect the irrigation schedule:

• the size of the pot (the larger the container, the less often watering should be);
• pot materials (plants in ceramic containers are watered more abundantly);
• leaf size and density;
• location in the room and frequency of ventilation;
• air humidity level;
• the degree of filling of the substrate with roots;
• drafts, etc.

10. Using smart assistants

Today, both budget and elite systems have been developed for indoor plants to avoid difficulties with watering. The simplest and most affordable indicators, auto-irrigation flasks, double-walled containers, hydroponics installations will allow you to keep watering to a minimum.

Even a simple moisture level indicator will eliminate the need to constantly check the soil by touch. And if there are difficulties with determining whether a plant needs watering or is it better to wait, be sure to get such smart assistants.

Houseplants are found in almost every home. This is the best interior decoration. For green pets to grow beautiful and healthy, they need to provide proper care... In this article, we will learn how to care for indoor plants.

General rules of care

There are many different types of indoor plants. Each variety is distinguished by its external characteristics and care features. However, there are general rules for growing all houseplants. Let's take a look at the points of how they should be properly looked after.

Moderation

Most houseplant species are easy to care for.... Many of the green pets are unpretentious, so they can be grown by novice growers. In any case, when caring for indoor plants, it is necessary to observe moderation in everything. The necessary watering and feeding is required to be made without undue zeal. There should be no excess in liquid or fertilizers.... And they need to be added in a timely manner. If you do not observe moderation in caring for indoor plants, you can face a lot of serious problems.

For example, waterlogging of the soil often entails rotting of the root system of plantings. As a result, the flowers can begin to hurt a lot, and subsequently risk dying.

Compliance with the rest period

When caring for indoor plants, one must not forget about the period of rest necessary for them. In winter, many well-known varieties of home flowers go into a kind of "reduced power consumption" mode. During this period, there is no need to make additional fertilizing. Watering and other caring manipulations should be reduced.

Maintaining appearance

It is equally important to maintain a healthy and attractive indoor plant appearance. It is required to promptly remove dried buds, inflorescences, leaf blades and shoots. The listed manipulations will contribute to the preservation and attractiveness and health of plants.

Deprived of dead components, flowers will not waste vitality, feeding unnecessary parts.

Disease and Pest Control

Every florist knows what indoor plants need daily inspection. This makes it easier to keep track of the health of green pets. Subject to regular examinations, a person can notice in time the onset of diseases that have affected the plants. Most often, you can see damage by fungus or viruses on indoor flowers. Time started correct treatment will have more success.

Set of tools

Any operations carried out for the care of plants, be it watering, planting, transplanting or fertilizing, are carried out using the appropriate equipment. Consider what exactly a florist needs to grow green pets.

• Watering can. When buying this device, it is recommended to select options with an elongated spout. Using such watering can options, watering is much more convenient and easier. At the same time, water will be able to break through even through thick leaves. indoor flower... With the right watering can, watering the plant will be complete and safe.
• Flask... Everyone knows what this device looks like. The elongated tip of the elongated structure and the spherical water container make the flask an indispensable item for automatic watering of indoor flowers during the departure of the owners. It is enough to pour clean water into the container and stick it into the ground with the tip down. The soil will be saturated with the necessary moisture gradually, as it dries.
• Sprayer... The spray can be used if you do not care for all types of indoor plants. Some varieties do not need wetting of the leaf plates. But it must be borne in mind that with the onset of too hot days, the foliage can still dry out, which will negatively affect appearance landings, so a spray can be a very useful tool.
• A tray of water. Most often, this detail is used if the houseplant grows in a room with very dry air. You should not put the flower pot directly into the water. It is advisable to add expanded clay or pebbles. These components will gradually absorb excess moisture, transferring it to the rhizomes. The described method of caring for flowers is especially in demand and useful if they are located in close proximity to heating devices. With the advent of winter seasons, they will need regular feeding with life-giving moisture, which the florist should not forget.

All the equipment you need to care for plants can be bought in special garden stores. Usually such devices are inexpensive.

Indoor plants need to be provided optimal conditions content. Let's consider in detail what the florist should take care of.

Location and lighting

Many indoor plants need adequate lighting. Typically, daylight hours should be between 12 and 16 hours per day. At times when the plant is dormant, this time frame can be shortened. Since climatic conditions in our country are not always favorable, people often have to resort to auxiliary lighting (special lamps are suitable). This is especially true for thermophilic tropical flowers that prefer to grow on the sunny side.

It is not recommended to expose indoor plants on the windowsill in the most direct rays of the sun. In such conditions, green pets risk getting burns. The sun should not be abundant. Diffused light or light partial shade is ideal - it all depends on the preferences of a particular type of plant. It should be borne in mind that with insufficient lighting, the processes of photosynthesis will inevitably slow down... This will negatively affect the health of the flower.

Temperature

At home, thermophilic plants are most often grown that cannot survive on the street. Such plantings need a warm, room temperature in the room where they grow. Optimum performance ranges from +16 to +22 degrees Celsius.

Even tropical species of indoor plants "don't like" excessive heat. Do not try to create a jungle-like environment in your home. Rare indoor flowers will "like" temperature indicators exceeding +24 degrees. And there are crops that grow better in an environment of light coolness (for example, at a temperature of +15 degrees Celsius).

Humidity

The main percentage of indoor plants belongs to the moisture-loving category. The humidity level should be slightly above average. At the same time, one should not forget about the direct origin of home flowers - most of them come from the humid tropics. High humidity indicators have a beneficial effect not only on the condition of plants, but also on people.

Try to keep the air surrounded by indoor flowers not dry. This will have a bad effect on their appearance and health in general. This will increase the risk of pest attacks.

The soil

It is important to take care of using a quality primer for flowers. Indoor plants have nowhere else to take nutrients, except from the soil mixture. The soil should contain not only all the necessary nutrients. The land must also have a suitable structure. It should not be overly loose or overly dense. It is important to take care of the drainage layer in the plant pot. Drainage layer needed for almost all home colors.

Pot

Modern growers can independently choose in which tank to grow indoor plants. There are a lot of suitable containers on sale made of different materials: pots, flowerpots, boxes. All flower dishes are divided into 2 types:

• for growing- such pots already have drainage holes;
• for decor- pots are meant, in which there are no additional holes, so they can be placed anywhere without fear of possible leaks.

Houseplants do better in growing tanks. However, such containers look much simpler; they will hardly be able to effectively decorate the interior with them.

How to water?

Growing your favorite plants at home, it is important to take care of their proper watering. All crops love moisture. In a closed ground in a pot, flowers have nowhere to get it, so a person should not forget about the timely introduction of the liquid that feeds the planting. Some crops easily survive temporary drought (for example, succulent), but there are varieties that begin to wither rapidly if you miss at least a couple of waterings.

Bulbous plants survive drought most easily. They already have a certain amount of moisture that collects in their fleshy areas. But flowers with thin stems risk dying from lack of moisture. The frequency of watering directly depends on the season, the particular type of indoor plants, and the ambient temperature. In winter, autumn and in cool conditions, you should less often moisturize your home flowers. Anyway Before watering, make sure that the top soil layer in the plant pots is dry.

Loosening

So that a white salt crust does not accumulate on the upper part of the substrate, as well as in order to increase the permeable qualities, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil. But you need to pay attention to the structure of the root system of plants. - if it is superficial, the utmost care is required.

Trimming and shaping

Many of the novice florists who do not have rich experience are slightly afraid of the procedure for pruning indoor plants, considering it both difficult and traumatic. But there is nothing to be afraid of. If everything is done correctly and the flower is formed carefully, there will be no problems. Green pets will not be affected in any way.

If you need to remove the growth point at the top of the plantings, then here you can use the simplest technology - topping... If the flower has thin stems, it is permissible to pinch it with 2 fingers. If it comes about a fleshy plant, it is best to use scissors - it will be more convenient and easier. Always use a pruner, knife or scissors for trimming. This procedure cannot be performed manually.

How to transplant?

A transplant is required for all types of indoor plants, especially when it comes to young plantings. They grow pretty fast, so they need a transplant every spring in the first 3 years of life... For adult indoor flowers, frequent transplants are no longer needed. They have to be transplanted to another place only as needed - depending on the growth rate, plant size and other circumstances.

At times, houseplants need unscheduled transplant. Most often, you have to resort to it if there are certain diseases or serious damage by dangerous pests. If there is too much waterlogging of the soil mixture, it is better to replant the plants as soon as possible, without waiting for rotting of the rhizomes. If the transplant is planned, a fresh flower pot is selected 2-3 cm larger in diameter.

Mature and slowly growing crops are often transplanted into the same pot, you just need to change the land in it.

Fertilizers and growth stimulants

Indoor plants must be fertilized with mineral balanced compositions. They must be saturated essential components (from potassium to phosphorus). The use of high-quality fertilizers strictly according to the instructions will lead to an improvement in the general condition of the plantings, an improvement in root formation and rooting will occur. Fit saturated products like "Kornevin".

Liquid formulations should be used according to the scheme: every 2 weeks during the period of active growth (from April to September). Fertilizing candles are simply inserted into the substrate where they feed the soil. The granular components are spread on the surface of the soil mixture. The use of complex dressings is necessary for many indoor plants in August.

How to propagate?

There are various ways of breeding houseplants. Let's analyze the most popular ones. Generative reproduction occurs by planting new seeds in a suitable substrate. Vegetative methods include grafting. To do this, cut off the top of the stem of the plant. The stalk must be planted in the soil mixture, watered in a timely manner. The container is covered with a film.

Popular reproduction by children... They are separated with fingers, planted in prepared containers with earth. When young flowers grow up, they will need to be planted in separate pots. Mustache reproduction is widespread. The algorithm of actions is simple: from the ends of the shoots, the daughter processes - the whiskers - are removed. They must be planted in moistened ground, if it was possible to take them together with the roots. If the sample is taken without roots, the antennae are rooted, as in the case of cuttings.

Secrets of experienced florists

If you want your indoor plants to grow beautiful and healthy, it is worth taking on board a few secrets of experienced florists.

• If you have ornamental plants growing at home, and you notice that their leaf plates have faded, it will be possible to return them to their previous appearance with the help of a decoction cooked on a banana peel.
• If you decide to plant a capricious plant at home that requires more complex professional care, it can be slightly protected from pests by transplanting it into soil, in which there are 4 match heads.
• If indoor plants suffer from a dangerous scale insect or spider mite. "First aid" will be a soap solution (a simple laundry soap) diluted with a few drops of rubbing alcohol. After processing according to this scheme, the planting is not touched for another day.
• Spraying a plant will be an excellent prevention of the appearance of a red spider mite. This procedure gives the plants more. More than just humidifying the air.
• Carrying out pruning indoor plants, it is always necessary to remove too long branches and old stems, which no longer have leaf plates.
• If you decide to grow bright houses tropical plants, they will need to provide conditions that are as close to natural as possible.