What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

When decorating the sauna premises from the inside, it is necessary to use only natural materials. This moment is very important, since the release of harmful chemical substances in the process of adopting procedures, can harm human health.

Even when using standard building materials, the decoration of the bath and sauna can turn out to be original and interesting, as in the photo. All work does not require the possession of special information and skills, so you can create an interior interior on your own.

Selection of materials for decoration

The ideal material for sauna furnishings is, of course, wood. Wood for rooms should be of high density, resistant to decay processes, and have a beautiful pattern. Experts do not advise using pine materials for these purposes, since when heated they will release resin in large quantities.

If you have the financial opportunity, it is advisable to give preference to Canadian cedar, rosewood or African oak. Such wood for finishing the sauna has a subtle aroma, has beautiful view and pleasant shades.

Birch, ash, linden, alder and aspen are more affordable. The linden croaker with a bast coating is especially in demand when decorating a bath, since its surface is pleasant to the touch, heats up slightly and has a porous structure, due to which it has the ability to regulate the level of humidity in the steam room. The finishing of the washing room in the bath is also mandatory, which must be foreseen in advance.

As for birch or alder, their wood is valued for healing properties, and ash for durability and the presence of a beautiful cut of the core.

If you are decorating your sauna with wood, it is not necessary to use the same wood for the cladding of the washing room as for the steam room. For this room, pine lining is quite suitable, since thanks to the resin contained in this wood, the material is not afraid of strong moisture, does not rot, and retains an attractive appearance for a long time. Spruce lining is characterized by similar qualities, therefore, the washing room is also decorated with it.

Of no small importance is the quality of the wood used. Such finishing materials for the sauna should have a minimum number of knots, be thoroughly dried, without dark spots and curvatures, with an even and light shade on the cut. The presence of a gray color indicates the low quality of the product and inappropriate storage conditions.

Together with wood, other finishing materials for baths and saunas are used in the construction process. Since surface areas near the stove are exposed to high temperatures, they require facing with stone or heat-resistant tiles. It is recommended to use it when laying out the walls of the shower, the floor and some areas in washing department.

Since the tiled flooring it is cold to the touch, rectangular or square wooden pallets are installed on it for comfort. The room looks unusual and stylish if the interior decoration of the sauna is made by a competent combination of ceramics, wood and stone.

Proper surface preparation

Before starting the cladding work, it is necessary to prepare the walls, ceiling and floor. They should be insulated from moisture, insulated and ensured strength. Wooden surfaces the ceiling and walls must be treated with a penetrating primer with an antiseptic additive. If the walls of the sauna are made of bricks or blocks, they are leveled with cement plaster.

In the process of finishing work, the following materials and tools will be needed:

• drill;
• jigsaw;
• notched trowel;
• hammers (rubber and regular);
• screwdriver;
• building level;
• vapor barrier film;
• insulation;
• heat-resistant tiles;
• timber and slats;
• lining;
• adhesive composition for tiles;
• nails and screws.

Finishing technology

Finishing work in the sauna and bath is carried out step by step:

Floor cladding. Finishing should start from the floor. As a rule, clinker tiles are laid out, in which the surface does not slip even when wet. The glue is diluted, the tiles are laid out and a notched trowel is used.

The cladding begins to be made from the corner opposite entrance doors in the steam room. A layer of heat-resistant glue is applied to the concrete base and leveled with a spatula. The first of the tiles is laid and pressed against the base. Plastic crosses are placed between the wall and the edge of the product.

Then they start laying adjacent elements, inserting crosses between them, and thus ensure the uniformity of the seams. In the process of installing the tiles, it is necessary to check the horizontal position of its location; in the presence of protruding fragments, use a rubber hammer. Remove excess adhesive with a dry cloth.

When the floor cladding is completed, grout the joints using special compounds that are applied with a spatula and then carefully rubbed into the joints between the elements. Excess funds are removed. At the end of the work, the floor surface is wiped with a damp cloth. Allow the glue to dry. During this time, wooden lattices can be made.

Arrangement of lathing on the walls. When the saunas are lined from the inside, for the installation of a vapor barrier and insulation, you need to make a crate from a bar with a section of 50x50 millimeters and nail it to the walls. If they are lined with blocks or bricks, then anchor bolts are used for fastening. The sheathing on the crate is fixed perpendicular to the location of the beams (for more details: ""). The distance between adjacent posts should be 50 centimeters.

Installation of thermal insulation. On the crate, using a stapler, fix the waterproofing membrane so that it sags a little. Between the racks made of timber, a heater is placed in one or two layers, while the thickness of the material should not exceed this parameter at the racks. If there are cracks and gaps, they are eliminated with polyurethane foam.

Then the last layer of vapor barrier film is laid. On the frame, it is fixed with brackets, observing a 10-centimeter overlap. Seams should be sealed with tape.

Wall cladding. At this stage, the decoration of the sauna depends on the personal preferences of its owners. One of the options is full wall cladding with clapboard or wooden fragments. The second method is a combination of wood and tiles or facing the stove with masonry. You can also show your imagination and create in the sauna original interior(in more detail: "").

Before the start of finishing work, wooden elements are brought into the room for a day for acclimatization. First, they mark out the areas where the tiles and wood will be located, and only then they do the cladding. Take wooden slats and stuff them perpendicular to the racks. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the lining is fixed on them. Level check the vertical arrangement of the planks.

In the room of a paired tile insert, experts advise doing only around the stove, and in the washing compartment and in the dressing room, it is allowed to veneer any of the surfaces. If there are joints between ceramic products and the extreme wooden element, you need to make them as even and dense as possible; for this, the gaps are sealed with mastic.

Ceiling finishing. First, the beams on the ceiling are covered with a waterproofing film, which is secured with staple brackets. The empty space between them is filled thermal insulation material... Its thickness should not be greater than that of the ceiling beams. The thermal protection layer is carefully covered with a vapor barrier film or foil is used, and the seams are sealed with adhesive tape.

To the beams, every 50 centimeters, 2-centimeter thick slats are stuffed. The finishing is fixed to them, which is the lining.

Manufacturing of shelves and their subsequent installation

Saunas play an important role in the interior design of furnishings. Particular attention is paid to the shelves. As a rule, they are made of rectangular shape and set in 2-3 levels. How they look can be seen in the photo. It is possible to sheathe them with linden boards either solidly or leaving small gaps.

Place the shelves in the steam room in one of three ways:

• as a “coupe”;
• stepped;
• L-shaped.

In the first case, equip the lower stationary and upper lifting shelves, which are adjacent to the wall. This method is ideal for saunas with a small area, as it saves space in it. If necessary, the seat can be lifted and fixed against the wall in this position.

In the second version, three shelves of different widths are mounted at one of the walls. They are placed one above the other. The widest one is placed at the bottom, while it will be the coldest.

With the L-shaped method, 2 shelves are mounted on both sides of the corner, and a third is placed above one of them.

All three options assume a standard arrangement of shelves, but if you connect your imagination, the interior of the steam room can be made much more interesting. For example, a lighter material is used for sheathing the shelf, and a darker element is attached along the edge. The corners of the structure can be rounded, and lattice elements can be inserted between the solid rows of the sheathing.

When building and finishing a sauna with your own hands, you need to remember that a difficult job is ahead, which will require a significant investment of time, effort and money. In order for the acceptance of procedures in it to bring joy to both the soul and the body, its interior decoration must be done in compliance with all technological processes.

Build a bath box is only the beginning of a set of works, after which from ordinary premises everyone's favorite building will turn out. The interior decoration of baths and saunas is able to create exactly the microclimate that will heal, help produce the "hormone of joy", and allow the body to recover after a hard working week. Therefore, it should be treated with the utmost care.

In addition to the steam room, attention should be paid to the relaxation room, where you will have to spend most of the time. Finishing should create a calm, serene atmosphere, while the floor, ceiling and walls should be in harmony with each other.

Choosing materials

Hardly any other finishing materials for baths and saunas will be able to compete with natural wood. You can use not only the lining, but also an ordinary board, creating an original interior for it.

For example, linden boards are opened to the width of a log, without the need to shave them off the sides, and use a thickness of no more than 10 mm. Then they are stuffed onto the wall with a slight overlap.

The result is an inexpensive yet effective cladding.

1. If there is no opportunity to purchase expensive and high quality materials, then pine remains. It is affordable, and the price is quite consistent with its quality. However, it must be remembered that it emits tar when heated, which can cause burns in the steam room.
   Its vapors are also harmful to health. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of resin pockets in the boards.

1. If you decide not to save on - larch and linden. No matter how much time has passed, the latter will always look like new, it does not darken and does not crack. In addition, the aroma of the material has a positive effect on human health.
   Larch, on the other hand, can resist the appearance of mold and fungi in the room, is not subject to rotting and is used for a very long time. But for the dressing room, then you can choose pine or cheaper materials for decoration.

Advice: if you want to decorate the bath with more interesting material, then purchase abasha wood.
Its main advantage is low thermal conductivity and the ability to adjust to the temperature of the human body.
Planks from it will never be hot in the steam room, so there is no need to worry about possible burns.

Wall and ceiling decoration

The interior decoration of the bath and sauna has general structure installation:

1. Make a crate from a wooden bar with a section of 50x50 mm or 100x100 mm, i.e. it should be the same as the thickness of the insulation, namely mineral wool. Before attaching it to the walls and ceiling, you should cover them with a vapor barrier so that the insulation does not get wet. In concrete, brick and stone walls, fasteners are made with self-tapping screws and dowels, in wooden ones - with self-tapping screws.

1. It is imperative to insulate the steam room and the bath in general so that the heat remains in the room. Mineral wool insulation is best suited for this, since it has zero flammability and low thermal conductivity. One or two layers are laid in the crate, depending on the territorial location of the object. On top of the insulation, a vapor barrier film and foil insulation are attached with foil inside the steam room.

1. The last stage is the interior decoration of the bath and sauna with the selected material. Details on how to attach a wooden lining to the crate are written on our website. (See also the article.)

Tip: you can soak the boards with special products to increase their service life, you don't need to do this in the steam room.

The sauna or bath does not differ from the wall arrangement. It should only be taken into account that all the heat in the steam room will be concentrated near it, so it should be insulated much more reliably.

Do not install pine or spruce wood on the ceiling, otherwise, after the temperature rises, resin will begin to drip from them, causing great trouble for bathers.

Floor making

Most often, the floor in the sauna is tiled ceramic tiles, while you should choose non-slip options. Today, such special types can be found in almost all hardware stores.

The material is very durable, which is its main advantage. You can also use ceramic tiles to decorate the shower part of the bath. Instructions for laying it on a concrete floor are available on our website.

Tip: For better fall protection on wet tiles, install a wooden batten on the floor, which will practically save you this trouble.

In the rest room, it is better to give preference to wood, in particular larch. It is durable, does not decay, and in terms of service life can be quite comparable to tiles. However, the price of the material is quite high.

Finish the floor after installing the thermal insulation layer on it. Usually, expanded clay is used for this, filling it between wooden logs, and stuffing the finishing floor on top. In the concrete base, place the insulation stand between the layers of concrete, and put the tiles on top.

Arrangement

Bath furniture should also be special, it is better if it is made of wood, complementing the overall interior. For a double shelf and their backs, do not cover with any compounds, much less paint. Try to use linden or other similar material, the same abashi, which will not injure the skin with a burn.

A good solution would be to place wooden bunks around the perimeter in the recreation room; here you can also use ordinary pine, and a table between them.

Output

Bath or sauna decoration - necessary stage construction, which actually creates a steam room, a washing room and a rest room. It is better to use wood suitable for the room for walls and ceilings, and tiles or larch for the floor. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

The decoration of the bathhouse differs in many respects from that of living quarters, both in the materials used and in technology. The most important thing you need to know when starting to decorate the bath inside is you cannot build a turnkey bath, and then think about how to finish it. The decoration of the bath is carried out in conjunction with insulation and insulation, and as for the floor, then as part of the work on its construction. The reason is the special conditions of the microclimate of the bath and the stay of people in it.

Sauna atmosphere

The cornerstones of insulation - vapor barrier is applied from the wetter side, and insulation from the cold side. In the bath, both of them regularly find themselves inside, just, so to speak, in working mode, during washing. So, you need to be insulated from the inside? But in winter, the bath periodically gets completely cold, and then how to prevent dampness of building structures?

The second point is the bath spirit. Even in the old days, not everyone could afford to build an "original" bathhouse, but nowadays it is available only to a few. The bath is not breathable - just a heat chamber and the health benefits of it, to put it mildly, are questionable. So how, then, is it still possible to steam in a building made of available materials, which can be erected and equipped on its own?

Finally, the main rooms of the bath are the washing room and the steam room.... In them, in addition to sharp jumps in temperature and humidity, there is always an abundant spill of water on the floor and walls. How to avoid unsanitary conditions in such conditions? All these tasks are taken over by the interior decoration of the bath. Of course, at the same time, it must also fulfill its usual functions, decorative and ergonomic.

What else to finish?

Large public baths, starting from Ancient Rome, were finished and are now often finished with mineral materials - stone, tiles. For their small bathhouse, they are definitely not suitable: with a decrease in the size of the structure per unit of its volume, an ever larger area of ​​external surfaces is accounted for, and with it heat loss. Then, in order to make the stone bath breathe, it needs high, from 4-5 m, ceilings and well-thought-out ventilation and hot air supply systems; the construction of Roman baths still fascinates engineers and builders.

Have you been to the hammam? How much is there in height from the heels of a pair to the lowest point of the ceiling? If less than 4.2 m, what kind of equipment is hiding in the technical rooms? How much does it cost, does it consume fuel and electricity? In the conditions of a private economy, the interior decoration of the bath has no alternative to be wooden. This makes it difficult for her to achieve proper hygiene, but there is another way to put a healthy bath in terms of less than approx. 12x16 m no.

What to strive for?

The structure of the bath can be brick, from foam and gas blocks, wooden lumber, frame or log; We do not touch such exotic things as, say, an earthen bath. Except for one of these cases (see below), the structure of the bathhouse is not capable of breathing, as a bathhouse should, by itself. The builders of baths for the final finishing of a 4x6 m box on a turnkey basis take about ... 500 thousand rubles, and the materials account for no more than 20-25% of this amount! It follows that decorating the bath with your own hands is justified at least economically. Now let's summarize what we should get technically:

1. When heated to 70-90 degrees, the finish of the bath should not exude vapors harmful to health, but should keep its shape and mechanical characteristics;
2. The risk of injury (burns, slipperiness, scratches / splinters) from the finish of the bath should be excluded;
3. The interior decoration of the bath should quickly absorb and well retain heat, gradually releasing it into the room after heating;
4. The properties of the finish must be maintained for a long time under the influence of cyclic thermal shock and 100% humidity;
5. The finish of the bath should be pleasant to the eye and to the touch with steamed leather.

About burns

Bath as a bath

The simplest decoration of a Russian bath is simply its absence, see fig. More precisely, the absence of a solid finish: a bathhouse made of a wild, matched-to-size log breathes perfectly on its own thanks primarily to the open ends of the logs - the wood absorbs and gives off water vapor several times faster through the fibers than across the layers, but warms up from heat radiation and from contact with heated air evenly. Therefore, in the original Russian bath, the required ratio of temperature and humidity is naturally maintained in a wide range of heating intensity.

The original Russian bath is of 3 types - vigorous, from oak, condovaya, most often from pine, and light, linden. The latter is the most useful, but if it appears on sale, if it appears, it is prohibitively expensive. A full-fledged replacement for him in terms of sanitary and hygienic indicators, but only for 5-7 years - poplar. Steaming in a vigorous oak bath is not for everyone's health; it is definitely not recommended for women and children.

Pine bath without interior decoration it will be useful and rather perfumed if its frame is made of ordinary commercial pine-wood. Expensive, but unusually resistant to moisture, rot and pests, tar pine goes to 1-2 lower crowns. However, the pine bath must first be "burned", the residual volatile substances must be expelled from the logs, and the heavy resin fractions must be made bituminous. To do this, in the summer, in dry hot weather, in a new bath in the morning, all doors, entrance and interior doors, windows, upper air vents are opened wide (see below) and all containers are emptied, including a sewage pit, if it is under the floor. Then the stove is heated at maximum until lunchtime; here for the first time you need an eye and an eye - suddenly something is wrong in the fire-prevention pipe cutting (also see below). After lunch, the furnace is stopped, the bath is allowed to cool until the next morning, and this procedure is repeated 3-5 times. Suddenly the weather turned bad - it's okay, a break won't hurt.

However, it is possible to use a Russian log bath without additional finishing only if the log house is properly baked. Since ancient times, baths have been caulked with moss, but now the best way- jute. In the process of construction, the crowns are caulked with a strip in a stretch (see the figure on the right), and after dry shrinkage of the frame, the slots in the set are clogged with a jute rope (top left photo in the figure above). If the bathhouse is built in compliance with these requirements, the floor in it is also laid as it should, see below, and how it should be pressed, only decorative functions remain behind its decoration; you just need to leave more wall surfaces free and do not cover the outer and inner ends of the logs.

About finishing the sauna

The northern country of Finland has never been rich in forest suitable for building a bath. Abundant spruce there in this case is not the best option: it is difficult and long to expel resin from its solid massif. Therefore, the Finns initially assigned the health-improving functions of the bath to its less costly inner lining: the traditional finish of the sauna is a plank upright made of seasoned spruce boards, see fig.

Avid Finnish bath lovers, after steaming in their own and in a real Russian bath, say: yours is better. Not much, but it still feels better. However, the sauna is much simpler, cheaper, it can be made compact even in a corner of a city apartment and even mobile, which determined its widespread use. The design of the sauna is very plastic, therefore, if you want to get just a sauna, then when finishing according to the methods described below, take a seasoned air-dry spruce for covering.

Baths thanks to decoration

So, a properly equipped bathhouse made of any other material, except for solid logs, should breathe like a bath, thanks mainly to the wall decoration. It is more necessary for the ceiling to suppress heat loss so that the air under it does not become saturated with moisture, but, having cooled down a little, immediately flows down to the floor. Paul gets the most: he must be safe, i.e. not slippery, hygienic, warm, especially resistant to rot, mold, pests, to ensure the drain of spilled water and, at the same time, do not interfere with the ventilation of the subfloor, otherwise the whole structure will become damp. And the base of the bath, as you know, is strongly discouraged above 200 mm.

Note: To finishing works in the bath, you can start only after the foundation and the box on it have shrunk. The timing of technical breaks for shrinkage depends on the design of the foundation and the structure of the bath.

You need to learn from simple to complex, but in practice, for complete success, you need to deal first of all with the most difficult cases. Therefore, let's go, first, as is customary in construction, from bottom to top, from floor to roof; secondly, since there is a stove in the bath, it will be necessary to involve the principle of "from the stove". That is, we will carry out the interior decoration of the bath in this order, assuming that the box with windows and doors is already on the foundation:

1. If the stove is brick - laying its foundation and building the stove;
2. Sub-floor device;
3. Laying the finished floor separately for the premises - a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a rest room (if any);
4. Wall decoration and upper air vents;
5. Installation of a metal stove and arrangement of its chimney;
6. Ceiling decoration;
7. Installation of partitions and a little about the equipment and lighting of the bath.

Note: the overhead vents in the bath are often forgotten, but in vain. Especially in the steam room, they can be vital in order to instantly relieve steam, suddenly someone becomes ill. An unheated bath must be kept with open upper vents to avoid dampness of the walls.

Brick oven

Sauna stoves are a separate topic, and brick stoves are a special one in a separate one. Here we will focus only on the fire-prevention section of the chimney, because without it, it is impossible to begin further arrangement with it, and no one has yet invented chimneys hanging without a stove.

A brick sauna stove is heated intensively, but not constantly and for a short time, so that the danger of soot ignition in it is small. Therefore, the cutting of its chimney is not broadened, but in 7 rows; for the order, see pos. 1 fig. V attic floor a hatch is cut out for cutting, pos. 2, and produce additional insulation with vermiculite, pos. 3. In the case of using a widened groove, the hatch is respectively expanded and additional insulation then it is no longer needed, on the right to pos. 3. Cutting the passage through the roof is common, but that's another topic.

Rough floor

The subfloor beams of the bathhouse should rest on concrete posts from 200x200 mm or on brick posts from 380x380 mm. Under each column, an anti-ebb sand cushion of at least 300 mm with a thickness (thickness) and with an extension of 150 mm beyond the contour of the column is arranged. The step of installing the supports is no more than 1.2 m along the long side of the structure and no more than 2 m along the short side. If the subfloor frame is spinal or lattice (see below), then the arrangement of the supports is drawn up so that there is a column under each crosshair of the beams. Because the basement of the bath is low, then in all respects it is convenient to take ready-made concrete foundation blocks 200x200x400 mm without a tooth, with smooth ends on the floor props. The columns are aligned to the horizon along the foundation by filling and tamping sand cushions and, before laying the floor beams, they are covered with 2 layers of waterproofing, like the foundation.

Material and impregnation

The ideal material for floor beams and 1-2 lower rims of a log house is a healthy straight-grained tar pine, freshly cut in the midst of spring. Bark beetles, woodworms and fungi do not touch this: they will choke in the resin. The abundant resin in it is bituminized by the end of summer, and the tree will become resistant to moisture, rot and pests no worse than bog oak. In any preprocessing tar does not need, but, unfortunately, this material is very expensive, and in many countries logging during the spring sap flow is generally prohibited.

It is better to take larch on the beams and boards of the subfloor: impregnation of fire retardants and biocides with inexpensive and safe solutions of borax and boric acid is enough for it; larch is not afraid of water anyway. Oak too, but it is more expensive, and the bath does not need an addition of strength. Other commercial wood for the floor must also be impregnated with water-repellent compounds - water repellents. Of these, only expensive refined mineral oils and no less expensive synthetic ones based on silicone are suitable for the bath. It is better to forget about bituminous mastic and even more about surrogates like working off, if we are talking about a bath.

Note: without exception, all wood materials for finishing the bath are brought into it before use and left for 1-3 days for acclimatization. Otherwise finished structure one of them will almost certainly warp soon or she will dry out.

Frames and beams

If the width of the bathhouse structure is more than 4 m, the subfloor frame needs a spine frame (item 1 in the figure) or a lattice made of 150x150 bars. In this case, its beams cut into each other in half a tree. The frame, like the entire floor of the bath, is made floating with a deformation gap around the perimeter of 20-40 mm. The gap is not tightly filled with jute rope or mineral cardboard.

In a bath with a width of up to 4 m, the base of the subfloor is made of beams from 150x50 beams. After cutting to size, cranial bars 40x40 or 50x50 are stuffed on them below, and the beams are laid out in places with a step of 400-500 mm, pos. 2. The beams are fixed against displacement by pieces of the same timber, cut according to the template, pos. 3. In log buildings, it is permissible to lay the floor beams into the grooves of the lower rim of the log house freely, without a tie-in, pos. 4, with a gap along the groove contour of 4-6 mm. Further, the cells of the beam structure are filled with subfloor boards, pos. 5. They are attached to the cranial bars with galvanized or phosphated nails or self-tapping screws.

First and second features

It is necessary to lay the rough floor of the bath across the spans between the beams from pieces of boards cut to size. As we will see further, then, when laying the finished floor, the cracks in it and in rough floor will turn out perpendicular, which will facilitate the very difficult task of warming the bath floor.

The second feature is that it is better to take a cheap debarked croaker on the rough floor of the bath and lay it with the bulges up. The outer dense and resistant layer of wood in the slab boards is not disturbed, which will give the floor resistance, and the bulge of the boards will exclude stagnation of water spilled on the floor. Gorbylins, due to a decrease in the thickness of the trunk from the bottom up, converge to one end, therefore, the rough floor is collected from the slab, picking up the boards and laying them alternately with thin ends in one and the other side.

Lags

Finally, logs of the finished floor with a width of 50 mm are installed on the floor beams without a tie-in, pos. 6. They are also attached to the beams with galvanized or phosphated steel corners from 30x30x2 and also corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws from 6x25. "From" in the first case refers primarily to the thickness of the metal of the corner, so that it will last for at least 15 years in the bathing conditions.

Third feature

The height of the log under the final floor in the bath is taken differently for different premises: 50 mm in the washing room, 75-100 mm in the dressing room and rest room and 200 mm in the steam room. Why - see below.

Finishing floor

So why are the floor logs in the bath different? First of all, because it is possible to apply the usual scheme of floor insulation (see the figure on the right) in the bathhouse only for the dressing room and the rest room. In the steam room and the washing room, it is sure to spill on the floor hot water; In principle, only extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is capable of preserving its qualities and not becoming a focus of rot in such conditions from insulation materials, but it, like other types of foam, has been seriously discredited according to recent studies.

Not so long ago, in several countries (Holland, Canada, Russia, etc.) experiments were completed, at the beginning of which foam plates different types were imposed on the walls from various building materials and walled up under plaster of different composition... On autopsy, after 10 years, it turned out that from the original foam thickness of 80-100 mm… 17-23 mm remained!

As it turned out in the course of the analysis, the foam plastics are destroyed to liquid styrene, and that is evaporated under the influence of subtle traces of chemically active volatile organic matter in the air, up to the components of the aroma of flowers and the smell of the coniferous forest. Industrial emissions and gasoline fumes are, of course, even worse. Speed chemical reactions and vapor diffusion in solids depend on temperature according to power laws, therefore, in a bath, foam insulation is unlikely to last 10 years under concrete, which, it seems, has already been encountered by many users.

It follows that there is only one way to insulate the floor in the washing and steam baths: air-to-air, like a gas view in bell-type furnaces. Its essence is that a pillow of cold dense gases / air keeps warm ones on itself, but for this it is necessary to exclude convection by limiting the contact area of ​​cold and warm layers... The effect is the stronger, the greater the temperature difference and, consequently, the density of the cold and warm interlayers.

The construction of the floor with cells of the subfloor and final floor intersecting with the beams and slots prevents convection, keeping it above the floor warm air... Raising the floor of the steam room above the washing room by 150 mm is necessary due to the temperature difference in them. In a steam room, a less heated air cushion in the floor is more stable and warmer than in a washing room. Leaking there from below, it feeds the cooled air in the floor of the washing room: there it, finally cooling down, goes into the underground. The temperature difference between the top and bottom of the washroom is much smaller, convection through the floor can go through narrow cracks and the room will quickly get cold.

As for the elevation of the floors of the dressing room and the rest room, it is sanitary standards should be from 3 cm. This value was obtained from the statistics of pipeline accidents in bathrooms - per 1 sq. m of floor in such cases, up to 25 liters of water is poured out. Layer 3 cm per 1 sq. m gives 30 liters, i.e. with a margin, so as not to flow into living rooms. For a bath, this calculation is invalid, but - the norm is the norm, and there will be no thinness from an elevation of more than 3 cm. Finally, the outflow of the "cold" (which is warm for other rooms) air cushion from the floor of the steam room will also heat the floors of the dressing room with the rest room.

Clean floor - washing

As you can see, the critical point for warming the bath floor is the washing floor. If you do it, as is often advised, inclined with a point surface runoff, this is not the best option:

• There are no non-leaking wooden floors, and stagnant water in the gaps between the boards contributes to the emergence of foci of rot and mold.
• The possibility of air-to-air floor insulation is excluded, because the air above and below the floor is physically separated.
• The risk of injury to the floor increases, because it is at least a little, but inclined and wet all the time.

The floor of the washing room with a dispersed drain and a catcher in the subfield, pos. 1 in fig. In addition, this design makes it possible to additionally insulate the subfloor with a layer of expanded clay under the concrete screed. It is best if the catcher covers the entire area of ​​the bath. If not, it should extend under the steam room, and its wings should go under the dressing room and the rest room by at least 60 cm.

The crevice floor in the washing room is made of larch or oak boards with a rounded edging, pos. 2. Slots on pos. 3 shows the maximum permissible width so that you can catch a small object that has fallen into the underground with your fingers, a hook or tweezers / platypuses; in fact, 0.5-1 cm slots are enough for the floor in the sink to work as it should.

Clean floor - steam room

In a steam room with a clean floor, it is easier - here there is a volley runoff only if it rolls out of the gang, and the subfloor heats up well. Therefore, the floor of the steam room can be laid from the same boards as in the washing room, laid back to back.

Walls

If, laying the floors in the bath, you had to think more about their own functionality, then on the walls one cannot ignore the structural features of the bath and the decorative qualities of the finish. First of all, you need to decide what is the best wood finish: molded from natural wood or more resistant, but not emitting useful substances (eg phytoncides) MDF. In any case, at the same stage, the type of insulation material is determined. The choice depends on the properties of the material of the structure of the bath - timber / galvanized log, frame / from foam blocks, brick / aerated concrete blocks. The structure of a bath made of monolithic foam concrete has the same properties as of foam blocks.

Insulation

It is usually recommended to insulate the bath with mineral wool, as well as living quarters, which is not the best choice: mineral wool is hygroscopic, wet loses its insulating qualities and cakes irreversibly. According to the complex of properties, cellulose insulation - ecowool should be recognized as the best insulation material for a bath. Much has been written about her merits; for a bath, the main thing is that ecowool practically does not lose its insulating qualities after 72 hours of being in an atmosphere with 100% humidity. In addition, ecowool, using a hand-held blow molding machine, which can be rented, is blown into the cavity without any special difficulties, see Fig.

Thermal insulation with ecowool is more expensive than mineral wool, by about 25%. But let's take into account that the area of ​​the surface to be insulated with a decrease in the size of the building falls squarely. If, for example, when insulating a house of 100 sq. m ecowool overrun Money comes out 100 thousand rubles, then for a bath in 20 sq. m (4x5 m), its absolute value will decrease 25 times and amount to 4 thousand rubles, which will not be seen in the estimate for the bath.

In general, ecowool was purposely created for warming baths, but from now on we will be guided by the more popular mineral wool everywhere. Keep in mind that for ecowool, almost always foil vapor barrier can be replaced with glassine or craft paper, and where not, it will be indicated separately.

Foam blocks and gas blocks

They are often confused or considered the same material, so let's clarify: foam concrete absorbs vapors and liquid water a lot and quickly, but just as easily gives off moisture. Aerated concrete is vapor-permeable almost like wood. It draws liquid water into itself slowly and in a smaller volume, but, being damp, it dries no better than a brick.

Board and lining

You can decorate the walls of the bathhouse with a clean-cut board as you like, but you will not do without cracks in them. The wall cladding of the washing and steam rooms with a simple grooved board can only be carried out upright: the shelves and the tongue-and-groove pocket of horizontally sewn boards will become moisture traps and foci of wood damage.

When cladding walls in a bath with clapboard, it is not so much the material that matters as the profile of the board. For cladding with horizontal belts, the Standard profile is more suitable, at the top in Fig. on the right or Softline (with rounded bevels) without a ventilation groove on the back side: ventilation of the cladding will be provided by the vertical arrangement of the battens of the battens, see below. For sheathing upright on a horizontal crate, profiles are needed in a wide ventilation groove, in the center; the crossing lathing in the bath is unsuitable, because ventilation of the cladding will be poor in any case. Profiles with narrow ventilation slots are also unsuitable, see below in the figure: they are intended for installation without lathing on flat walls in dry rooms.

How the walls of the bath breathe and get wet

Saunas made of rounded logs and squared beams breathe more often and deeper in comparison with the original Russian ones, because in both cases, the upper dense layer of wood is cut off and its pores are open over the entire surface of the material. Baths made of foam concrete / foam blocks and the frame breathe in the same way, but they damp faster and lose their heat-insulating properties; dry also quickly. Compared to humans, they are easily out of breath and catch cold, but easily recover. A gas-block bathhouse breathes lightly and deeply, but if you have already caught a cold, i.e. damp, sick (dries) long and hard. A brick bathhouse breathes shallowly and heavily, and it gets sick in the same way as aerated concrete one.

Tree species

To deepen and slow down the breathing of the bath, the inner lining of oak or beech is capable; to a lesser extent - ash and maple. To make it more frequent and lighter - from linden, alder, aspen; the finishing of a pair of wood of these species will be the best. Birch and hornbeam are easily affected by fungi and pests, as well as a wet nut. Of the conifers for a very mediocre bathhouse, matured pine after "pressing", as described above, is suitable. Other breeds advertised for bath decoration have not yet been properly tested for the expiration of substances that are not beneficial to health, with one exception.

This exception is Japanese cryptomeria; it goes on sale under the name koto or kote. The Japanese make their baths, hot tubs and other washing accessories from koto. Cryptomeria trim alone is capable of giving the bath even deep breathing and a healthy mind. Cryptomeria is resistant to diseases and pests, it grows rather quickly, and it renews well. Therefore, its technical culture has already spread quite widely, and the cryptomeria clapboard is cheaper than the fake one. Its color is light, slightly darker than that of maple; the texture is fine. In addition to the steam room, the tree is suitable for finishing the washroom. Keep in mind.

Boarding / clapboard

Schemes for lining the walls of the bath with wooden moldings are given on the left in Fig. Let's immediately pay attention to the inset: with a herringbone, like there, the walls of the bath cannot be sheathed - rot will go from the pockets under the sheathing. On pos. 1 - a diagram of the inner lining of the walls of the bath from a bar, rounded logs and foam blocks. The thermal insulating properties of such a bath are good, the vapor permeability of the walls is close to optimal, therefore, there is enough foil vapor barrier under the cladding to protect the structure from trapping condensates during the cooling of the bath. For cladding, MDF lining is suitable. The foam block bath will additionally need to be protected from getting wet from the outside without loss of vapor permeability, see at the end. The lining for its sheathing needs a wooden one, which makes breathing heavier in the bath, see above. Vapor barrier is necessary for any insulation material.

On pos. 2 is a diagram of the inner lining of a bath made of other materials, including gas blocks. Their heat-insulating qualities are high, but this material must be protected in every possible way from the ingress of liquid moisture on the wall, even for a short time. For this purpose, the finishing of the washing bath from gas blocks necessarily includes in its structure waterproofing from a microperforated membrane (under-roofing film): membrane waterproofing retains the smallest droplets of condensate, but allows water vapor, which then migrates through the wall to the outside. Breathing from this gas-block bath will, of course, not be good.

Bath from a bar natural moisture(the cheapest) when erecting a log house, it must be buried in a stretch, see fig. on right. In a bath made of bricks and foam blocks, the lathing for the sheathing is mounted on the bare aligned walls, pos. 3 in Fig. above. Then they put / spray a heater and apply a metallized vapor barrier - foil insulation, etc., circling the battens of the crate with it. Place the battens on top of the insulation, as in pos. 6 - a serious mistake: through their fasteners, moisture will penetrate into the insulation and the wall; the fasteners of the sheathing and insulation clamping strips are small, they do not pierce the crate through and through, see also below.

The overlap of strips (tapes) of insulation is 15-20 cm; the joints are glued with special tape. The upper tape should overlap the lower one to drain any condensation. If the roof of the bath is insulated, then the probability of condensation at the top of the wall is higher than on the ceiling. In this case, before rolling out the last tape of wall insulation, the ceiling is insulated (pos. 6), and the overlap of the last tape is given both to the previous wall and to the insulation of the ceiling.

Actually, the cladding of the walls of the bath has no significant features, except for one: the finishing of the steam room in the bath with clapboard should be done only and only with standard fasteners - clamps, see Fig. Temperature jumps in the steam room can reach 80 degrees in the Moscow region and over 100 degrees in Siberia; thermal deformations will also be of the corresponding magnitude. Any simplifications and cost reductions that are acceptable in living rooms, such as small nails driven obliquely into the groove of the tongue and groove, in the steam room will soon lead to warping of the casing, damage to the insulation and blocking of the walls.

Top vents

Ventilation vents under the ceiling of the bath - the upper air vents - are necessary, as mentioned above, to keep the temperature and humidity of the unheated bath on par with the outside and so that you can quickly relieve steam in case of emergency. But it is impossible to make them in the form of simple ventilation windows with blind hatches-covers: during thermal bath procedures, condensation may fall out in the ventilation duct, which will immediately go into the wall and / or insulation. Therefore, the upper air vents in the bath are made with inserts from the wall material (see the figure on the right) or, say, foam, in this case it is quite applicable.

Stove and chimney

The easiest way to install metal sauna stove shown in pos. 1 fig., But this is far from optimal: there is no sight, and the injury and fire hazard does not decrease, because the fence is combustible and permeable. A solid brick fence (pos. 2) is more reliable, but takes more useful area, the excess of which in homemade baths not visible. Brick oven, pos. 3, in addition, requires laying the foundation for it and long technical breaks for its shrinkage and the structure of the furnace. The best thing, perhaps, would be to install a sauna stove in a niche lined with artificial stone (item 4) or porcelain stoneware; one and the other are firmly glued to the wood with appropriate assembly adhesives.

A wide range of sandwich-type chimneys for ovens is currently on sale. They look neat, inset at the top left in the figure:

But, firstly, they do not get rid of metalwork and welding and construction works, as can be seen from the diagram in the center in fig; There are also enough other difficulties and subtleties when installing a sandwich chimney (see video).

Video: installation of a sandwich chimney

Secondly, many happy owners of "steep" chimneys, in practice, have recognized cases like the one, the consequences of which are shown in the sidebar at the top right. Manufacturers do not deceive consumers here, but the latter, choosing cheaper, unknowingly connect chimneys-sandwiches for fireplaces to the sauna stoves, which are absolutely unsuitable for bathing conditions. And for more or less a sandwich chimney suitable for a bath or heating-cooking stove, you need to pay at least 30 thousand rubles.

Meanwhile, there is a way to make a simple and safe chimney for a sauna stove with your own hands, spending no more effort than installing a branded sandwich, and much less money. This is a sleeve of ordinary steel chimney... How it is done is shown in pos. 1 fig., And what it looks like in real life - in pos. 2 and 3. If the pipe under the bottom of the sleeve is red-hot, the temperature of the attachment points of the base plate of the brick cut at +60 in the room will not exceed +95 permissible for wood. Insulation of the base plate from below is necessary so that, with a weak firebox or at the beginning of the heating of a cold room, soot precipitation in the chimney does not increase and / or acid condensate does not fall out.

Ceiling

The task of the ceiling of the bath, as mentioned above, is quite simple: it must prevent heat loss through itself, so that convection in both heated and cold baths occurs without reaching dew in the rooms. Therefore, the ceiling of the bath is made of the usual hemmed one from the same board or lining as the walls, according to the standard scheme shown with the dimensions on the left in Fig. Option of 2-step ceiling insulation for a bath with warm attic, inhabited attic or home bath is given on the right in the same place.

Partitions and other

Partitions of any bath in all respects it is more desirable to put light frame on a clean floor. Their heat and sound insulation can be foam, because this design is quite maintainable. There is only one limitation: sheathing is made of the same materials as the walls; plywood, fiberboard, and gypsum plasterboard, even if they are moisture resistant, are unsuitable, they are not for bathing conditions.

The second thing that has more to do with the decoration of the bath than with its equipment and furnishings is the shelves. Schemes and sizes of bath shelves for steam rooms of different sizes and layouts are given in Fig.:

As for their design, the simplest thing here would be a set of conventional lattice ladders made of deciduous tree species suitable for a bath (see above).

Such loungers are laid on wooden runners installed on the walls in the order of their sheathing, see Fig. on right. This solution makes it possible to configure the shelves as needed or to completely remove them for cleaning, sanitization or repair.

About bath lighting

According to the safety rules, the entire bath belongs to premises that are especially dangerous in terms of the degree of electric shock and fire hazard. In such conditions, a general 12 V power supply and luminaires in a waterproof design are permissible. Everything would be fine, but the wiring for the same power turns out to be high-current, in a humid heated environment it is unreliable and unsafe, and the bulbs quickly burn out. Therefore, in recent years, expensive, but completely safe light-guide illuminators are increasingly used to illuminate the washing and steam rooms. In them, a projector lamp illuminates a beam of light guides, the branches of which are bred at the points of the location of the illuminators. Among other things, the light-guide lighting of the bath allows you to obtain beautiful lighting effects, see fig.:

From the opposite

Well, it turns out that the decoration of the bath largely determines the pleasure and benefits of it? Why not, in this case, think of a bathhouse, following from the finish to the outside? It is true that many bath designers do just that. Let's try to think of a small bathhouse for ourselves, with a minimum of justified costs for it, as pleasant and beneficial as possible. The result is:

• The foundation is tape, not buried, or columnar with a base. With the size of the building in plan up to 6x6 m, the forces of frost heaving on ordinary soils practically will not tilt the structure, the bath will simply rise and fall a little during the year.
• On weak, subsiding and strongly abutting soils - a strip foundation of normal depth.
• The structure of the bath - foam blocks on the usual masonry cement-sand mortar.
• Exterior decoration and thermal insulation - ventilated facade made of dry-formed facing bricks; half-brick masonry, connections to the load-bearing wall - steel anchors with deformation bending seam in seam.
• The floor is made of larch planks along the logs on the beams made of it.
• The drain from the washing and steam room through the slit floor scattered into the concrete trap.
• Sewage pit - at a distance from the building.
• Insulation - ecowool.
• The finishing of the washing and steam room is the simplest upright board.
• Wood for finishing the steam room - linden, cryptomeria, alder, aspen, poplar.
• Wood for finishing the washing room - larch, cryptomeria, pine, oak, ash, maple.
• Decorating the dressing room and rest room - according to your means and desire.
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How to choose the right materials for decoration, and what qualities should they have? First of all, it should be the massiveness of the material, high heat capacity and good resistance to moisture and hot steam. Secondly, the building material must be safe to use, environmentally friendly, durable, aesthetically attractive and fit into the interior of the sauna. The most acceptable in this regard is wooden lining, although other types of finishes can be used.

The classic option is wood. It not only has a presentable appearance, but also has good moisture resistance and does not overheat. Natural board does not emit an unpleasant odor or harmful substances. Optimum temperature for a steam room with wooden lining - +120 0 C. But it is worth considering the high humidity in the room, therefore wooden board need "acclimatization". It is advisable that she lay in the sauna for several days and be treated with a special impregnation.

A photo of the interior decoration of the sauna, as shown below, assumes that all surfaces are lined with clapboard. The most durable will be boards made of larch, oak, cedar or ash, they can be used for floors and ceilings.

Since the humidity in the sauna is lower than in the Russian bath, spruce, pine lining, linden are used for the walls of the rest room. But for a steam room, it is better to choose poplar, aspen or birch, which, when heated, do not emit a pungent odor. Such a lining heats up slowly, but not excessively and retains pleasant heat for a long time.

Coniferous trees, fiberboard, chipboard, plastic lining and linoleum are not used for finishing the steam room. At high temperatures, these materials release dangerous toxins.

For the beautiful and non-standard interior boards can be combined with each other, as in the photo below.

At the place of installation of the fireplace and in the washroom, cladding with bricks or glazed tiles is used.

In terms of style, rooms decorated under Turkish hamam mosaic tiles.

DIY sauna decoration

The work starts from laying the floor and ends with the installation of the ceiling. For floors, it is undesirable to choose Oak planks as they become too slippery in humid conditions. All planes are carefully aligned.

To begin with, a thermal insulation layer is laid, for brick saunas an additional vapor barrier is required, and a lath is made of wood. The slats are fixed at a distance of 65-70 cm. The lining is attached to it. Nails are not used, the euro lining is chosen or from the spike in the groove structures. The battens are fastened with stainless steel nails.

The ceiling above the fireplace or electric stove is raised by 15 cm.

The first rail is fixed and the rest are laid from it. If the walls in the sauna are perfectly flat, it is allowed to install the lining without lathing.

The tiles are laid with a rough face and a smooth base. This will prevent mold from falling and spreading between the tiles and the wall. There are a lot of modern types of tiles, but if you are laying it yourself and for the first time, it is better to choose the traditional square or rectangular.

The section of the wall near the firebox is trimmed with stone or heat-resistant tiles.

If the entire room is equipped with tiles, start laying ceramics from the most noticeable angle. Before work, the tiles must be soaked in water for a couple of minutes. Swollen tiles will absorb less glue, which will help save on it. When laying, use crosses-spacers and a comb-type trowel. After the glue dries, the seams are rubbed.

For ceilings, film vapor barrier and basalt fiber, sawdust or shavings are used as thermal insulation. A well-dried hardwood board is suitable for finishing.

By design, the ceiling can be made flat, panel or hemmed. The finished steam room will look harmonious with the ceilings made from the same elements as the wall or floor decoration, as well as with contrasting options.

In a spacious sauna or a building with an attic, you can additionally equip a pool, allocate a place on the veranda for a barbecue, place a playroom or a bar on the second floor.

The article will be useful to those who plan to independently carry out the interior decoration of the bath rooms. Detailed step by step instructions with a photo will help to produce cladding and cladding with high quality and in compliance with construction technologies.

In a classic Russian bath, there are necessarily rooms such as:

• steam room;
• washing;
• vestibule (changing room).

If the area allows, modern buildings will equip a separate recreation room, billiard room, pool, veranda, barbecue area and even a full kitchen.

In spite of fashion trends, the basic requirements for the bath remain unchanged:

• in the steam room, persistent hot steam is needed,
• in the washing room - non-slip floors and the possibility of convenient bathing procedures,
• in general, the premises have a comfortable microclimate and aesthetically pleasing environment.

The functionality of the bathrooms depends a lot on the correct finishing. Even if your structure is built of rounded logs, and the walls look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing from the inside, it is recommended to make the interior decoration of the bath, as this will significantly extend its service life.

Each room has a number of features that must be considered when choosing materials and cladding methods.

Steam room

When finishing the steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• sharp temperature drops, the upper limit of which can reach 120˚С;
• the presence of hot steam emitted by a powerful and concentrated stream;
• high humidity.

A universal cladding option for a steam room is a cladding board, which should have the following properties:

• do not absorb moisture;
• have a low heat capacity, therefore, do not heat up from high temperatures and contribute to the rapid heating of the steam room;
• have a pleasant color and smell, while not emitting resin when heated;
• protect walls from rot and mold, help purify the air.

Of the whole variety of lining, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abasha wood are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a cladding material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well dried and hewn, without knots and notches on the surface, it will reliably serve for many years.

The lining in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.

Before sheathing The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, and it is it that is most often used in finishing. Often, such insulation is used as basalt wool. It is more durable, as it is not subject to deterioration from the influence of high temperatures. However, cork agglomerate is considered the best insulation for baths. It is anti-allergenic, not subject to rotting, burning and the appearance of fungus.

The floor in the steam room is made warm, not slippery and pleasant to walk with bare feet.

Wall paneling prices

Video - Interior of the steam room

Washing room

In the washing department, they usually not only rinse the body, but here you can relax after a hot steam room, have a relaxing massage, apply products for face, body or hair care. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.

The lining of the sink is done either with ceramic tiles or wood. Moreover, if deciduous varieties of lining were used in the steam room, then in the washing room preference is given to conifers - larch, spruce or pine. The resin they contain is water-repellent and protects materials from decay.

Particular attention is paid to the floor, it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to fill the base in the washing room with concrete, on which the tiles are laid out. Although it is possible and wooden version floor.

To prevent slipping on a wet surface, it is recommended to make a flooring on the tiles in the form of removable wooden logs. They should be dried after completing the bath procedures.

Wooden flooring on a tiled floor - photo

Tambour, changing room, recreation room

Along with the washing room and the steam room, the rest of the bath rooms retains high air humidity. Here you can use both hardwood and softwood for decoration. The following materials are also used:

A combination of various types of finishes is common in such rooms, for example, wooden lining, tiles and natural stone.

Prices for porcelain stoneware tiles

porcelain stoneware tiles

Video - Shower and relaxation room in a thermo alder bath

Ceiling decoration in the bath

During operation, the ceiling is exposed to aggressive effects of hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the ceilings with steam and heat insulation to prevent damage to materials. For these purposes, aluminum foil or a building membrane is often used. They are equally effective at ensuring their tightness.

For vapor barrier, do not use foil with glued cotton wool. It is much thinner and less convenient for cladding work. Also, do not use foil with glued polypropylene foam. It is toxic when heated and therefore unacceptable for use in bathrooms.

It is important to carefully glue all joints with aluminum tape. If in the process of attaching the material you accidentally damaged it, immediately glue this place, then you can forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be broken.

A pipe hole must be laid out in the steam room. It is equipped with a box made of thin sheet stainless steel, which is filled with expanded clay.

The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet that protects the wood from excessive heat.

Step-by-step instructions for installing lining on the ceiling

Step 1. Slats with a cross-section of 2 * 4 cm are sewn onto the ceiling with a lathing step of 40-45 cm. At the points of attachment of the frame, it is necessary to provide for ventilation gaps of at least 10 mm.

Step 2... The slats are placed horizontally on the walls, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.

Step 3. From one of the walls, wood panels begin to be fastened. The groove of the first plank is directed outward and the spike of the next is hammered into it. It is possible, and vice versa, there is no fundamental difference.

On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet, this will avoid damage to the material.

Step 4. The strips can be fixed with special clamps, they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the simplest and in a convenient way is the use of a construction stapler. It reliably fixes the lining and significantly reduces the time for installation.

Step 5. On the sides, gaps are left from the walls in the amount of 2-2.5 cm.This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation finishing material... The gaps are subsequently hidden by the skirting board.

The first and final panels are nailed with small studs. They are driven in at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood with a doboiner.

It is important to monitor the verticality of the planks, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. A simple building meter can be used instead. In this case, you are measuring the distance from the wall to the edge. installed panels on the one hand and the other.

If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is neatly knocked out to the desired level. For this, a small piece of the same panel is used, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or a hammer).

The panels are trimmed in the following way: they fix a wooden plate, under which a sharpened chip is carefully hammered.

The walls in the steam room are trimmed with wood. In the rest of the rooms, you can use tiles or stone.

Wall decoration with clapboard

The basic technique for installing wood panels on walls is no different from fixing them to the ceiling.

Step 1. We fill horizontally around the entire perimeter thick bar- every 80-100 cm.

Step 2. We put insulation from mineral wool... We cut the insulation to the required size with a sharp knife. We put it between the bars without tamping.

Step 3. We lay a vapor barrier, carefully glue all joints with aluminum tape.

Note! Carefully monitor the quality insulation in the corners.

Step 4. To provide a ventilation gap, we fill in the distance rail. The cladding is always performed at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining strips. Thus, if you plan to arrange the panels vertically, the lathing is nailed horizontally.

First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. For an even placement of the horizontal slats, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame slats, that is, at the floor and above the ceiling.

The next rail is packed after 40-50 cm, and further along the perimeter, with the same pitch, the rest of the bars are attached. Always check the levelness of the installation with a level or plumb line.

Step 5. Doors and windows are enclosed in separate bars.

Step 6... We proceed to fastening the panels.

When cladding walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to fasten the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure a quick drainage of moisture to the floor, without retaining it in the grooves of the panels.

If you decide to do a horizontal finish, then lay the boards with the spike upwards so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, the boards are fastened from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The lathing is nailed vertically.

Wooden panels are fastened with clamps, ordinary nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, the cap is completely sunk into the wood.

Be sure to leave 2-3 cm gaps when attaching the lining from the ceiling and floor for ventilation.

Often the lining has to be cut. For these purposes, use a saw with fine teeth or an electric jigsaw.

Before attaching the last rail, it is trimmed to the right size and attached to the crate. On the first panel of the next wall, a ridge is cut off and installed end-to-end against the last rail of the first wall. Corner trimming requires special precision. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent corners of the panels must adjoin joint to joint, without gaps.

Vapor barrier prices

vapor barrier

Video - Decorating the bath with clapboard

Insulating the oven from the wall

Special attention should be paid to the insulation of the stove from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:

• stainless steel - attached directly to the wall behind the oven;
• minerite - heat-resistant plates made in Finland, consisting of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing fibers. Mounted on 2 sheets if the oven is located in the immediate vicinity of the wall. When the stove is more than 40 cm away, one sheet of minerite is sufficient .;
• heat-resistant tiles made of kaolin clay, for example, from the Russian company Terracott;
• profile iron - the most budgetary option for insulation;
• red solid brick - laid out between the wall and the stove to the base of the pipe. If desired, you can insulate the entire space to the ceiling.

Minerite prices

Wall cladding with tiles

Quite often the walls in the washing department or in the rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look to the room.

Step-by-step installation instructions tile on the walls in the bath includes preparatory stage and cladding.

1) Preparation

If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust, rough plaster is performed, and irregularities are leveled with a solution.

Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing felt or tar paper. It is nailed down with a construction stapler, and a fine mesh netting is sewn on top. Finish preparatory work by applying cement mortar that completely covers the metal mesh.

A perfectly flat wooden beam is nailed at the floor level, from which it will begin fine finishing... You can use a metal UD profile, which is fixed along the level along the wall.

To control vertical rows, use a conventional plumb line or laser level.

2) Laying tiles

For fixing the tiles, you can use both a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5), and ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue designed for baths; it withstands large temperature drops and high humidity well.

Before starting work, the tile is immersed in a container with water and left until all the air is released from it. This will provide better adhesion to the mortar.

The cladding is started from the bottom, from the attached level.

It is important to lay out the first row ideally evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.

Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, while the glue should slightly protrude beyond its edges. To get the square perfectly straight, adjust it with a rubber mallet.

Pay attention to the gap between the rows of tiles, it should be the same along the entire length and height. To do this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are installed in the corners of the tile in the gap.

After 2 days, the glue is completely dry and the level can be removed.

The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the cladding. It dries for 11-12 hours.

The final step is to clean the walls from the remnants of grout and other contaminants. The tiles are thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

Tiles create a lot of room for creative expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the easiest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly one above the other.

The runaway pattern looks like this.

Stacking tiles

Diagonal cladding.

To create complex combinations of tiles of different colors, it is recommended that you first lay out the drawing on the floor, then outline a diagram on the wall, and only then proceed with the decoration.

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Video - The principle of laying tiles

Wall cladding with terracotta flagstone

Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture resistant and durable, withstands high temperatures and allows you to create an original and beautiful design walls.

The technology of its laying is somewhat different from cladding with ordinary thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta is a heavier material and requires special glue or mastic.

Below are step-by-step instructions for cladding with terracotta flagstone.

1. Apply mastic to the flagstone in a thick thick layer. More glue is required than with lighter tiles.
2. Press it against the wall and align.

   

3. We install the rest of the plates.
4. For even joints, we lay pieces of drywall between the plates.

   

5. When laying parallel rows, do not forget to check the horizon with a level.
6. Grouting can be done after 10 hours. For this we use a special wide-joint heat-resistant grout. We dilute it with water and beat with a construction mixer until a homogeneous consistency. A properly prepared mass resembles thick sour cream.
7. We release the structure from plasterboard squares.
8. We fill the construction gun with grout. Cut off the nozzle of the gun at an angle of 60 degrees, the hole should be 8-10 mm.
9. Fill the gaps between the plates with grout. The squeezed out mass should not go beyond the level of the cladding, and also fall on the front side of the slabs.

   

   Be careful when handling the gun. If the mastic does get on the decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off right away. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried composition without rubbing it.

10. The grout is distributed along the joint in any direction convenient for you. You can first walk along the horizontal joints, then along the vertical ones, or vice versa.
11. After 2 hours, we proceed to decorative jointing. This will give a finished, finished look to the cladding.

    

12. For jointing, you can use a simple screwdriver with a width work surface 7-8mm or rigid wire ring.
13. Finally, put on clean gloves and run your index finger along all the seams.

    

Bath floor decoration

If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.

Begin the cladding from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, a perfect horizon is not created on the floor, i.e. the tile is located at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

Before applying the mortar, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.

1. A cement mortar is poured onto the concrete.
2. Smooth with a spatula.
3. The surface is covered according to the size of the tile, in this case two rows are laid out simultaneously.
4. The notched side of the trowel creates a pattern on the mortar for better adhesion of the facing surface.
5. Lay out tiled rows. Using a rubber hammer and a level, the desired slope is set and leveled. Please note that for the first row, the tiles do not need to be immersed in water first. The rest of the base is covered with a soaked cladding.

   

   Photo - laying tiles on the floor

   

6. In the corners, the tiles are cut to the required dimensions. To do this, marks are made on the tile, along which they are drawn with a tile cutter.
7. The same plastic crosses are inserted into the gaps.

   

8. After a couple of days, the joints can be filled with grout.

   

It takes a lot of time and effort to independently finish a bath. It is required to solve a number of important problems - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during the bath procedures.

Tile on the floor - photo

Video - How to put tiles on a wooden floor in a bath