• What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

    Currently, the so-called "frame" houses are gaining more and more popularity in the construction industry. This is due to the fact that such structures require a minimum of materials during construction, take a small amount of time, and are also very simple to assemble.

    The walls of a house of this kind represent a kind of peculiar "layered cake", the filling of which is represented by several types of different building materials... It depends on the correct choice and subsequent installation of these materials whether the structure will reliably protect its inhabitants from cold and extraneous noise.

    Wall device of a frame house

    Each of the load-bearing walls of the house on the basis of the frame is a kind of structure, in the manufacture of which vertical supports, as well as horizontal lintels, are used. The space between these materials is completely filled with various fillers, and from the outside, the building is clad with boards and finishing materials.

    Depending on what kind of insulation, as well as insulating materials will be selected as the main construction works, depends on how well the walls retain heat inside the premises.

    Features of the wall structure of a frame house

    Despite all the seeming simplicity of construction work, the walls of a house based on a frame must meet certain standards and requirements, non-observance of which can lead to such negative consequences as the loss of a large amount of heat and an insufficient level of sound insulation.

    The main requirements of this kind include the following:

    1. Heat-insulating and sound-insulating materials must be selected in accordance with quality standards, and also be in the optimal price range in order to avoid unnecessary cash costs.
    2. The walls of the building must be of a certain thickness which matches climatic zone, in which the construction of a house or other structure is carried out.
    3. Construction must take place in accordance with certain rules, applied to the laying and installation of a particular material.
    4. In order to avoid the ingress of moisture and condensation on the materials that are directly in the inner filling of the puff cake of the wall, when laying them, you should use special plastic films of special strength.
    5. You should also observe the norms for laying heat-insulating materials, to avoid getting them wet by precipitation such as snow or rain.

    Construction of external walls

    The outer walls of a frame house are composed of several basic layers. For a clearer explanation, these layers are listed in order starting from the inner wall of the house:

    They are used as a building frame wooden beam ki of various thicknesses, from which a kind of frame is pre-assembled. Further, this structure is sheathed with boards, which must be treated with special chemicals that prevent the formation of rot and mold.

    ... This layer includes materials such as drywall, plaster, concrete. That is, directly what is used as the final, decorative wall decoration.
    Vapor barrier layer. For this purpose, materials are used that prevent the loss of the main amount of heat by the walls of the building, as well as prevent the formation of condensate, which contributes to the destruction inner layers... Accordingly, the choice of this material should be taken seriously.

    This is followed by a layer of insulation. Most the best option in this case it will be basalt insulation, which not only provides effective heat retention, but is also able to last for a long period of time.

    OSB board.

    Exterior finishing. In this case, it is possible to use various decorative materials, such as metal siding.

    The device of internal partitions of a frame house

    Mainly device interior walls the home is made in the same way as the outside. The only exception is the absence of a vapor barrier layer and external decorative finishing, which, accordingly, is replaced by the internal one.

    However, there are simplified methods for erecting the internal walls of a frame house, which can be used if the construction budget is very limited. For this, sheets of drywall are used, which are installed on a wooden frame frame.

    However, this construction method cannot provide a sufficient level of sound insulation, as well as thermal insulation. Accordingly, it is applied only in exceptional cases when there is no possibility of using other technologies and materials.

    Frame house wall: doing it right

    In order for a house built on the basis of a frame to meet all accepted standards quality, it is necessary to follow certain rules, the neglect of which can lead to the loss of such important qualities as the building's ability to retain heat and prevent the penetration of extraneous noise.

    Wall thickness

    The thickness of the walls of the building depends entirely on what the purpose of the house will be, whether it will be a capital structure or, for example, a summer building, and also varies depending on the selected thermal insulation material.

    The thickness of the walls is due to the beams that were used as the frame frame. That is, it is the thickness of the timber that determines the final result.

    Mostly the walls of houses intended for living in them during the exclusively summer period reach a thickness of about four centimeters, excluding decorative finishes, both internal and external.

    The thickness of the walls of a capital structure is about twenty to forty centimeters, depending on the climatic zone in which the structure is located.

    Insulation


    As insulation when building walls frame houses the following materials are most commonly used:

    • Styrofoam. The most economical option, which has a lot of disadvantages, such as fragility.
    • Mineral wool. An option located in the middle price category, which is currently in high demand. Perfectly retains heat, and also prevents the penetration of extraneous noise into the room.
    • Polyurethane foam, ecowool. Quite expensive heaters, the price of which, however, fully justifies itself. They do not require an additional layer of vapor and waterproofing. They perfectly keep warm and retain all their basic qualities for a long period of time.

    Correct laying of insulation

    The insulation must be laid in accordance with certain standards, otherwise the material will not provide sufficient reliable heat insulation. The layer of material can be laid either directly inside the frame frame, or used as an external wall padding.
    In the second case, an additional layer of plywood sheets is required, which will ensure reliable fixation of the insulation, and also significantly level the surface.

    When laying, it should be remembered that if mineral wool or foam is used as a heater, an additional layer of vapor barrier is required.

    It is also necessary to ensure that there are no significant gaps between the plates of the selected material. They should be laid as tightly as possible.

    • In the event that small gaps remain between the plates of the material, they must be eliminated using narrow strips of the same insulation.
    • It is best to lay the material directly inside the frame structure, as this will ensure its reliable fixation, and also somewhat simplify construction.
    • When installing the thermal insulation layer, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material.

    Steam and waterproofing

    As vapor and waterproofing, a special film of special strength is mainly used, which is laid both from the outside and from the inside of the walls.

    Seeming from the outside monolithic wall any house in fact has long been a "layer cake". This fully applies to the now popular frame structures. It is important to understand how they work and what affects specifications houses.

    Peculiarities

    The walls of a frame house can be very different in design, it depends on whether the building is being created for urban life in the first place or as a summer cottage. The situation is different when choosing concrete blocks and other standardized materials, where only the thickness can be varied, but not the sequence of layers. In the case of a frame type building, it will be possible to use smaller posts and use available materials for cladding.

    It is worth taking into account not only the responsibility of the structure being created, but also the climatic properties of the area.

    Device

    Pie walls sheathed various materials outside, is built according to the universal rule. Namely: the permeability for steam should gradually increase from one layer to another. Given the low permeability of OSB to water vapor, it is not recommended to use this material for cladding. A membrane is usually placed behind the front layer to extinguish the negative effects of the wind. It is desirable that this protection also has a waterproofing function.

    Next is the vapor barrier. As a result, the main task is solved: the prevention of the penetration of drafts and precipitation, melt water into the thickness of the wall. And thanks to the vapor-retaining layer, water vapor does not penetrate sufficiently intensively from the rooms into the insulating part.

    Internal wooden lintels, contrary to some recommendations, do not need to be equipped. External counterinsulation is only required to increase the energy efficiency of the home, helping to block the penetration of cold through:

    • overlapping;
    • strapping;
    • crossbars.

    The need for such thermal insulation arises only with a small thickness of the main insulation. It is necessary to put the jumpers mentioned above to strengthen the rigidity of the frames only when mounting it on jibs. They are mounted on the inner walls when sheathing the house with solid slabs. When calculating the total thickness of structures, it should be remembered that strictly minimum parameters are recorded in SNiP. They are suitable for a reference point, but builders and experienced customers always carry out calculations on an individual basis to take into account all the nuances.

    Only the owners themselves can make the right choice, focusing primarily on their own tastes, material capabilities and climatic requirements. But many years of practice made it possible to find out some universal requirements and points. In houses intended for permanent habitation, the walls are made with a thickness of 15 cm. This allows you to use a typical edged board of the most massive format and insulate the wall with the most different ways... Similar requirements are imposed on those buildings in which they plan to live only in winter.

    Summer country houses can do without significant insulation. Lack of heating in winter avoids dew point and damage to base materials. You can confine yourself to one layer of insulation, and make the walls about 5 cm. It seems that everything is simple, but there is one thing that can radically change things. The thinner outer wall, the less its bearing capacity.

    The roof, even the lightest and most compact, weighs hundreds of kilograms. And snow drifts will press from above, regardless of whether someone is in the house at this time or not. In large buildings, it is recommended to install walls from a 50x150 mm board, mounting the insulation in the form of a single layer. This will ensure durability and at the same time maintain the basic qualities of the home. Dachas are built at their own discretion, since they live in them only periodically; but it is better to immediately play it safe and prepare a full-fledged house with walls from 10 cm.

    More scrupulous assessments already imply the collection of various information, the use of formulas and coefficients, it is very difficult to find all the necessary data. For non-specialists, it is easier and faster to use various online calculators. If several such resources give one figure, and the builders insist on another, there is reason to think about whether they are really such “professionals”. There is another calculation method based on standard sizes edged boards... They look at what boards are required for the frame, form a sketch, determine how window and door openings will be placed.

    Drawing a diagram or drawing in detail or in its most general form, it is not enough to come up with a "beautiful move", you should also take care of the maximum reliability of the structure. You need to think about:

    • points of use of fasteners and their types;
    • arrangement of air vents and ventilation;
    • connecting the wall with the roof and foundation;
    • optimal sizes and shapes of windows, doors.

    A good set of working drawings attached to the project must indicate what dimensions of the racks are used, how far they are from each other, where the jibs are mounted. Make sure that it shows how the posts will be connected in the corners, whether they correspond to the warm corner technology, what will be the abutment of the interior walls. Instead of a picking list, true professionals use the exact dimensions of any fragment of the structure in the same place where it was drawn. As you know, many still include OSB in a residential frame house, because this material has a number of attractive properties.

    In essence, this is the same wood, only stronger and more flexible at the same time. Ease of processing allows you to form even very intricate architectural elements. Sandwich panels, due to their homogeneous structure, do not have voids that inevitably appear in knotted sawn timber. High density (150% more than chipboard) is also a significant plus, as is the moisture resistance of an oriented slab. When assembling, it is permissible to use all currently existing types of fasteners.

    But even these advantages and the comfortable cost of oriented slabs do not mean that one should forget about their reduced permeability to water vapor. Therefore, it is worth looking for a completely different material for the front finishing of a frame house.

    When choosing a specific solution and executing it, the following mistakes can be made:

    • neglect of the dew point;
    • lack of adhesive tape at the joints of the vapor barrier;
    • vapor barrier of the building insulation from both sides at once;
    • lack of vapor barrier in principle;
    • lack of wind protection, or installing it under the inner layers.

    Such moments seem obvious to the limit, but in reality, it is precisely such errors that cause a lot of problems for residents. wooden houses frame type. It is better not to invent something from scratch, but to use the varieties of "pies" that have been worked out for a long time. Violation of the technology leads to the soaking of the insulation, to the appearance of mold nests on the racks and their rotting.

    According to experts, the most correct sequence of materials is as follows:

    • basic decoration of interior walls with gypsum plasterboard;
    • steam barrier;
    • insulating layer;
    • hard board material;
    • wind protection;
    • exterior decoration (for example, siding fixed to a counter-grill and separated from it by an air gap).

    To understand why such a sequence is considered optimal, you need to understand the essence of the physical processes occurring in the thickness of the frame wall. When the temperature drops, water vapor passing through it condenses (settles) from the air. In addition to the degree of heating, the appearance of such condensation is also influenced by the air humidity both inside and outside. The larger it is, the more high temperature condensation begins to form.

    For vapor barrier, high-density polyethylene is often used, its thickness is at least 200 microns.

    Mounting

    The polyethylene vapor barrier is attached using a construction stapler. The staples are driven into the racks every 300 - 400 mm. The joint lines must be pasted over with bituminous glue. When joining is not overlapped, it is recommended to use a special type of adhesive tape. Instead of polyethylene, you can mount foil insulation with your own hands.

    On top of this material, each joint is covered with a butyl tape. Some experts suggest using not only OSB, but also fiberboard, tongue-and-groove board or plywood as a power cladding attached inside the house. This solution allows the formation of walls with intensive ventilation at the micro level. But full-fledged air exchange can only be ensured with the help of real ventilation.

    Important: if rigid sheathing materials are installed with a gap, additional protection from steam is needed.

    For installation in load-bearing walls, wooden beams and boards, moisture-resistant plywood are used. The overwhelming majority of developers and teams make a choice in favor of a planed timber without profiling, made in the form of a square or a rectangle. Products must undergo active chamber drying, the size of at least one side must be 10 cm and larger. You can tie the bars either with exactly the same products or with a board - the technology allows both. Profiled products are attractive in appearance and help to save money, because they not only form a frame, but also become internal walls.

    The use of laminated veneer lumber has its advantages - high speed of installation, and the absence of unnecessary complications. In addition, the force and deflection are almost not reflected in this material.

    Important: if waterproof plywood is found in the step-by-step instructions, you cannot confuse it with moisture resistant. Only the first type of material is acceptable for decorating walls outside. An alternative to these materials and oriented slabs for exterior decoration frame houses are SIP panels.

    Industrial production and a wide range of standard sizes facilitate installation. In addition, the relatively low weight provides significant savings in the construction of walls and roofs. Bearing and external walls are installed at the same time. There is no way to refuse special load-bearing walls in a 6x6 m house. It is not difficult to recognize the need for this element: if it is possible to support the ends of the floor lags on the outer walls without deflection, there is simply no need for supporting structures.

    Soundproofing material can be used both in the external walls and in the interior partitions. The differences are that inside the house it is less relevant.

    In addition, you need to think about the combination of thermal and acoustic properties in one substance, this will allow:

    • reduce costs and thickness of structures;
    • facilitate them;
    • simplify installation.

    The filling of the load-bearing walls with insulation can be partial, but care must be taken to securely connect the mineral wool to the structure. This is achieved by increasing the number of brackets in the upper part and around the perimeter in comparison with the insulation of the sides of the house. The distance between the staples is exactly 100 mm. A membrane or other fabric as protection against noise is relatively well suited for load-bearing walls. When the dwelling is heated on both sides of such a wall, it is permissible to use cardboard paper.

    Contrary to popular belief, a strong unpleasant smell will cease to excite tenants in a week. But the cost savings will delight them for a very long time. A construction stapler helps to fix the noise insulation. Inch boards are placed on top, the gaps between which are determined by the type finishing material... For gypsum board, as well as for lining, leave a gap of 600 mm between the middle of the boards; the bottom and top boards are positioned regardless of the spacing.

    It is very important to capture the description appearance lathing on paper and photograph it in high resolution. When you need to screw the hardware into the wall, there will be no need to act by trial and error. At the points where reinforcement is needed, it is advisable to fill the boards immediately. This applies to the attachment points of any hanging cabinets, large shelves and mirrors. returning to interior partitions, it must be said about two methods of their creation.

    Warm, comfortable, modern - the frame will be so provided that it is built according to all the rules. Particular attention should be paid to the correct pie of the frame wall. The users of the site argue about what should be, what materials can be taken to replace those already familiar to us.

    We list the main mistakes that some make when constructing a frame wall:

    • do not take into account the possibility of a dew point;
    • do not mount vapor barrier material;
    • install a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation;
    • do not glue the joints of the vapor barrier;
    • do not mount the windscreen or install it under the slab sheathing.

    There is only one way to avoid these mistakes: to use reliable pie schemes that have been worked out over the years.

    1. Neglecting vapor barrier and wind protection

    Many novice developers do not think about what processes can occur inside the wall. The insulation starts to get wet, and the frame racks become moldy and rot. This is due to the fact that the wind protection is not installed, or the sequence of the layers of the wall cake is disrupted.

    Wall cake in a frame house:

    According to Linkozavr, the classic cake of the frame wall, (from the inside - out) is:

    1. Drywall - as a base layer for interior decoration.

    2. Vapor barrier.

    3. Insulation (mineral wool).

    4. OSB. Layers of a frame house

    5. Wind protection.

    6. Exterior finish: air-gap siding on counter grill, etc.

    The layers in a frame house should be located exactly like this, it is impossible to replace this sequence with another, and each element performs a strictly defined function.

    Denis Reznichenko, Moscow(nickname on the forum silent):

    - The vapor barrier is installed from the inside, because it limits the flow of moisture into the wall. Wind protection is always placed outside, because it prevents the wind from blowing through the thermal insulation, protects it from precipitation and allows excess moisture to escape.

    Pie wall of a frame house.

    To understand the need for high-quality vapor barrier, you need to understand the term "dew point".

    Dew point is a condition in which, under the influence of low temperature, water vapor contained in the air begins to condense, forming water droplets.

    The appearance of the dew point depends on:

    • air temperature (inside and outside the room);
    • relative humidity (indoor and outdoor).

    The higher the relative humidity, the higher the dew point temperature.

    When moisture condensation occurs, the following occurs:

    • the insulation gets wet and loses its thermal insulation properties;
    • the wall begins to freeze;
    • frame boards become moldy and rot.

    2. Incorrectly mounted vapor barrier

    The most common mistake in the construction of a frame is an incorrectly mounted vapor barrier. Because of this, moisture passes unhindered into the insulation.

    Roracotta:

    - The simplest and cheap way- use ordinary high-density polyethylene as a vapor barrier, not less than 200 microns.

    You can install a vapor barrier in three steps:

    1. Polyethylene is mounted with an overlap between rolls, about 15 centimeters in each direction.

    2. Polyethylene beats with a stapler on the racks, with a step between the staples of 30-40 cm.

    3. All joints are carefully glued with bituminous glue. If the joints do not overlap, then they must be glued with a special adhesive tape.

    Foil insulation can be used as a vapor barrier. This, due to the foil layer, does not allow steam to penetrate into the insulation. Everything the joints are glued with butyl rubber tape.


    Frame house pie with OSB outside

    The classic pie of a frame wall involves the installation of a power cladding - OSB slabs outside the house. In addition to such a scheme, another one is also used - the so-called "inverted" frame, where the load-bearing sheathing is oriented towards the inside of the house. Let's see why this option is being done.

    OSB slab is low vapor permeable, and classical violates main principle building a frame structure - vapor permeability should increase from the inside to the outside.

    Dmitry1000:

    - In my opinion, even if I make an internal vapor barrier, dew will still fall out in the insulation, because from the inside of the house there is a vapor barrier, and from the outside - OSB, and the moisture trapped in the insulation simply has nowhere to go.

    Let's see if this is actually correct.

    Paulspb suggests the following calculation:

    - The total generation of water vapor in a house with an area of ​​120 sq. m, with a family of three, will be - 6320 g / day. At ceiling height one-storey house in 2.8 m, the volume of the house is approximately equal to 336 m3, the amount of "generated" moisture, that is, remaining in the air after ventilation, will be - 2670 g, or 7.95 g / m3.

    Now let's imagine it's winter outside and -10. At 100% humidity, the air contains 2.37 g / m3 of water. There is much more moisture inside the house - about 10.32 g / m3. This leads to the movement of steam from the inside out through the building envelope.

    Paulspb:

    - Water vapor will escape through the walls and ceiling, the total area of ​​which is about 240 sq. M.

    In this case, 10.9 g of water should pass through 1 square meter of surface per day.

    An OSB slab with a thickness of 20 mm passes 5.39 g of steam per day through 1 square meter. A slab in 12 mm - 8.98 g of steam, in 10 mm - 10.8 g.

    OSB with a thickness of 9 - 12 mm has a low vapor permeability. OSB with a thickness of 18 mm and above is practically vapor tight.

    Since external structures most often try to sheathe OSB with a thickness of 9 or 12 mm, moisture will gradually come out.

    The classic correct pie for the wireframe.

    3. Correct wall frame house: breathable.

    You can often hear the expression: "breathing" frame walls, i.e. those that let steam in both directions and regulate the air exchange in the room.

    User with nickname Vitla offers a pie like this (from the inside out):

    1. Drywall.

    3. Thermal insulation

    4. Wind and moisture protection.

    5. Ventzazor.

    6. Exterior decoration.

    - The load-bearing sheathing must be fixed from the inside of the house. Suitable for this purpose: OSB, plywood, fiberboard, or you can replace them with a grooved board. GKL takes excess moisture from the room, and, if necessary, gives it back. That is, this kind of cake turns out to be "breathing", which is important for a comfortable stay in the house.

    Correct pie frame wall with OSB cladding

    Let's figure out whether such a scheme has the right to life

    “There are no“ breathing ”walls. My advice is to do a standard assembly and a reliable vapor barrier.

    Correct pie of the frame wall
    Roracotta:

    - Any correct frame needs a reliable vapor barrier.

    Air exchange in the frame is provided by ventilation, not by "breathing" structures!

    In addition, the OSB power casing, installed from the inside without additional vapor barrier, allows steam to pass through.

    Because OSB is mounted with a small gap between the sheets (3-5 mm), then without additional vapor barrier, moisture-saturated steam will enter the insulation through this gap.

    Frame house pie with osb
    When installing OSB from the inside, it is difficult to insulate an open wall in the rain or in winter. The slab, installed outside, additionally connects the floors of the first and second floors, the frame posts and acts as a load-bearing element.

    4. Pie of a frame house with OSB outside - Western approach

    Roracotta:

    - In Canada, it is unprofitable to insulate walls by laying fiberglass wadded insulation with a thickness of more than 150 mm.

    Do this: stack mineral wool 15 cm thick, and outside, on the OSB, foam plastic with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm is attached.

    Thus, the cold bridges are completely eliminated, and a very warm structure is obtained.

    - With such insulation, a special drainage membrane is laid between the OSB and the foam.

    It is not worth using extruded polystyrene foam as an additional external insulation. Due to its almost zero vapor permeability, EPS locks moisture inside. This can lead to a dew point on the inside of such a heater.

    Options for the wall design of a frame house without OSB

    In the Scandinavian countries, another option is used, and the pie (outside - in) is as follows:

    1. Facade gypsum board or windproof film.

    2. Racks of the frame, filled with insulation.

    3. Vapor barrier

    4. GKL on the crate.

    An interesting point: neither OSB boards nor plywood to replace it as a power frame cladding in such a pie are used, and all communications are carried out in an air gap between drywall and vapor barrier.

    Porcupine:

    - In Finland, in such a pie of a frame house, the replacement of OSB is basalt wool. A layer of vapor barrier is always put into the construction of the cake! Conventional polyethylene film is commonly used.

    The inner lining of the frame should be less vapor permeable than the outer one.

    .

    Frame house- this is an opportunity not very expensive and quickly enough to solve the housing problems of the family. Durable, practical, warm house- this is lightweight construction, which can stand for more than a dozen years. At the same time, a complex heavy foundation is not required for construction, but there is difficulty - frame walls. Wall structures must be properly insulated and waterproofed, then your house is not afraid of any temperature drops, the microclimate will remain comfortable and the house will really find comfort.

    Inexpensive does not mean bad

    The main popularity of the technology lies in the possibility of using inexpensive building materials, which reduces the cost of the project. Minimal use of wood, no brickwork, blocks of gas, foam concrete - this parameter greatly facilitates the total mass of the structure, which means that it is possible to save on arranging the supporting base without losing the practical and strength characteristics of the whole house.

    One more positive moment- quick installation of the walls of the house. Technologically, the box is erected literally in 4-6 weeks, and there is no further shrinkage, which saves time for construction. A simplified design and a variety of projects allow you to implement the most complex layouts without special financial investments.

    Interesting! Frame walls ideally hide communications, so during construction you will not have to additionally mount boxes that hide the elements, which is also very convenient.

    Structurally, the house consists of a supporting frame, insulation, which is laid inside, external and internal cladding, supplemented by layers. An impressive list of the advantages of the technology can be summarized as follows: the wall of a frame house with a minimum thickness, in relation to any other type of building, retains all practical qualities, while observing best ratio building area to useful area internal premises.

    Depending on the type and thickness of the insulation used, the wall panels have the following energy saving parameters:

    • mineral wool 150 mm thick = R 3.2;
    • mineral wool 200 mm thick = R 4.3;
    • expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 150 mm = R 3.7;
    • expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 200 mm = R 5.

    Important! To ensure the preservation of all qualities, the frame house should be erected from dry lumber. The use of raw elements will lead to the drying out of the structure, which means the appearance of deformation, the weakening of the fasteners. Subsequently, the house will require renovation and renovation. Frequently used boards have parameters of 150 * 50 mm or 200 * 50 mm, the width of the elements depends on the thickness of the insulation used. The outer cladding allows the use of OSB boards, plywood with the required level of moisture resistance, DSP, in addition to protective functions, the cladding gives the frame strength. An ordinary dense mineral wool layer is well suited as a heater (cotton wool should be counted on the example of a vertical structure, not horizontal, otherwise it will slide) or a layer of expanded polystyrene materials.

    Using foam is a cheap measure, but not the most profitable. In order for the foam to hold well, you will have to close up all the cracks and joints polyurethane foam... The cost of such an attachment reduces the price difference and sometimes increases total cost works. In addition, polystyrene is a material in which rodents often arrange nests, and this quality obviously negates all the advantages.

    One of the important elements of arranging frame walls is the installation of a vapor barrier. The materials are lined from the outside, protecting the insulation from getting wet. The tightness and quality of vapor barrier materials must be very high, in addition, all gaps must be glued with double-sided tape. However, if you use polystyrene insulation, vapor barrier is not required, since the material itself perfectly removes moisture.

    Important! The presence of a vapor barrier creates a closed air environment inside the walls, which means that ventilation is necessary. Its arrangement is thought over at the stage of project creation.

    The construction of a frame house can be done in two ways:

    1. application piece materials, preparation of which, sawing and assembly is carried out at the construction site;
    2. the use of large-panel dimensional elements called shields. The manufacture of products allows only industrial versions, the material is delivered to the construction site in the desired configuration and only assembly and installation is performed on site. The process is quite easy and fast, but the weight of the panel structures sometimes requires the use of special equipment.

    Advice! The panel technology is available in several versions: the presence of only one-sided plating, which implies the arrangement of the paneling on the other side of the panel after the construction of the box and the presence of double-sided plating. In the second case, the walls of the frame house are completely ready and you just need to install them in place. As a rule, these are SIP panels equipped with a thick layer of expanded polystyrene, which performs two functions at once: thermal insulation and vapor barrier. At the same time, the panels have increased strength in comparison with the standard frame frame.

    Disadvantages of wall frame structures

    One and the main disadvantage is the accumulation of moisture in the frame. This problem can occur in the thickness of the insulation material and will lead to the appearance of corrosion plaques, mold, dampness. Such a house will not last long.

    Therefore, it is very important to choose the highest quality insulation and waterproof it as carefully as possible. At the same time, remember that the thermal insulation is not to the taste of rodents, bugs, and is not subject to decay and deformation. As soon as this problem is solved, you can build a house that will give you more than a dozen years of flawless operation.

    Frame walls: construction of elements

    The structure of the wall of a frame house has several mandatory nodes: a rigidly connected frame element with horizontal straps, additional structures, vertical posts, internal filler and sheathing. In a cross-section, a similar "pie" looks like this (materials are given taking into account standard construction):

    • sheathing made of imitation timber;
    • lathing;
    • vapor barrier membrane;
    • wood board (chipboard);
    • wall frame structure (board, timber);
    • thermal insulation material;
    • soundproofing;
    • plywood board;
    • external finishing.

    Now let's look at which “pie” is especially right. The technology requires the use of only high-quality dry wood, otherwise drying will lead to irreversible consequences. For example, a wet board with a width of 150 mm in the process of shrinking will turn into a board with a width of 145-147 mm, which means 3-5 mm of gaps, which will significantly reduce the thermal qualities of the house.

    Warming involves the use different material, the main thing is that it stays stably in a vertical plane, does not roll down and does not gather like an accordion at the bottom. It is best to use a material of a slab character or fix the sheets with foam.

    The vapor barrier is always equipped with an overlap, from bottom to top. The overlap line is indicated on the roll with a dotted line or line.

    Important! The thickness of the insulating layer is selected taking into account the climatic characteristics of the region.

    Depending on the wall panels used, it sometimes happens that the thickness of the thermal insulation is slightly larger than the inner cavity of the wall frame. The solution to the problem is the use of an additional wooden frame or a slab element mounted under the outer cladding. It does not matter which construction option is chosen, the layers of the "pie" are rigidly fastened and fixed by means of plastic sleeves in order to minimize the risks of deformation of the insulation during operation. The frame posts should not be located in increments of more than 0.6 m.

    If the thickness of the insulating material is more than 20 cm, a double frame is made. The procedure lightens the weight load on the main wall element. The use of modular-type blocks facilitates the construction process, while the block device has parameters prepared in advance for each individual region. Most often, these are OSB boards with polystyrene or mineral wool insulation. This design provides high energy savings and is easy to connect on site.

    The design of small-sized walls of a frame house, if the construction is carried out from such elements, is no different from shields, only when arranging a vapor barrier layer you will have to lay the panels in one piece, and reinforce the joints with silicone mass.

    As for what should be the thickness of the wall of a frame house built for permanent residence, then experts recommend sizes of at least 15 cm. This does not apply to the whole "pie", but only to the insulation. For a temporary structure, 10 cm of mineral wool is enough, but then in winter you will have to warm up the dacha in order to stay there overnight. Thus, adding up all the thicknesses, we get the full thickness of the wall panel of the frame house.

    Important! Thermal insulation with mineral wool, as the most common material, has its own thickness parameters: insulation is mainly used with an average of 15-18 cm, and taking into account the complete structure of the structure, the wall thickness will be 22-24 cm.

    Today we will consider with you frame walls, the construction principle of which is simple and ingenious at the same time. For example, consider a wooden frame, which is currently used for the construction of 80 percent of all frame residential low-rise buildings.

    So, wooden frame walls. The construction principle is simple and in essence resembles, on the one hand, a children's designer, on the other hand, labor lessons at school. Remember we banged stools in labor lessons? So, the principle of constructing a frame wall is exactly the same. Each adjacent post, each frame element support each other through fasteners and ties.

    It turns out that any individual part of the supporting frame, be it a rack or a jib, is, individually, rather fragile. However, in a bundle, when all the frame parts are properly assembled and secured, the frame elements create an amazingly strong system.

    This page presents general schemes frame walls and their individual elements. As can be seen from the drawings, the following principles must be followed when installing a frame wall:

    1. The rigidity of the structure.
    2. Reasonable use of material.
    3. Construction speed.

    In fact, these are racks that are interconnected by jibs. Using the bottom and top harness the load is transferred from the roof through the struts to the foundation. Power elements of window and doorways unload these units and remove the load from the window and door blocks.

    The outer cladding of the frame wall also serves as a load-bearing element. Sometimes the reinforcement is done not through the outer skin, but through the inner one. Sheathing can be made either with any rigid slab material (plywood, OSB), or with thin boards (20-30 mm thick) diagonally.

    The use of DSP to strengthen the frame is unreasonable, since in this material hardware (nails, screws) do not have a rigid attachment. Over time, the design will begin to "walk", which will contradict the principle number 1.


    1. Any structure of a frame house, the nodes of which are calculated and correctly executed, is reliable by default. You can read the nodes of the frame yourself on a calculator, or you can use ready-made ...

    2. To imagine what a cake of a wall of a frame house with mineral wool as insulation looks like, just look at the diagrams located on this page. For different conditions ...

    3. This page shows a sectional frame wall together with insulation that is mounted between the frame posts. Simply put, a sectional frame wall is like this ...

    4. Vapor barrier during the construction of a frame house is used to exclude moisture from the house into thermal insulation materials located in the walls of the frame. One of the main conditions for using a heat insulator ...

    5. The most simple construction the walls of the frame house are vertical posts connected by the upper and bottom strapping and tied with jibs for additional structural rigidity. When using a slab ...