What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Chimneys are used to remove combustion products and generate traction in furnaces. By design and location relative to the furnace, chimneys are root, top-mounted and in the form of a channel in the main wall. Pipes installed on the furnace are called shell-mounted. This is actually an extension of the furnace smoke channel; they are convenient in that they do not take up space in the room. The root chimneys are arranged in the form of a stand-alone pipe stand near the furnace on its own foundation.

Their use is especially justified in wooden houses with a group arrangement of heating devices. In brick buildings, it is better to arrange smoke channels in the internal capital walls.

Wall chimneys do not take up living space and do not require materials.

The determination of the cross-section of the chimney flue is carried out depending on the heat transfer of the furnaces. The size cross section channels must correspond to the number of flue gases flowing through them and be at least 130x130mm for furnaces with heat transfer up to 3500W. For furnaces with a heat transfer of more than 3500W, the pipe section is made 130x250mm. For Russian stoves and fireplaces with a large portal, the chimney section is 260x260mm.

Depending on the size of the channel, the laying is carried out in different ways: in four bricks "four", five bricks "five" or six bricks "six".

The chimney consists of the following parts:

Masonry chimney does not differ from the masonry of the stove.

The difficulty is its laying in the place of its transition through the attic floor and the widening device above the roof. The main requirement is the verticality of the array, dense filling of the joints, achieving a smooth surface of the smoke channels.

The masonry of the top-mounted pipe is a continuation of the masonry of the stove, since it is installed on its ceiling and is carried out on the same mortar before crossing the attic floor.

At the point where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a horizontal cutting is arranged - the widening of the walls. Horizontal cutting is done to counter fire safety.

Cutting and pipe are placed simultaneously with the dressing of the seams, outer wall gradually expands, and the inner channel goes in one section.

This is achieved by overlapping the outer masonry by 4 cm in each row.

Non-combustible insulation, such as basalt mats, must be installed between the groove and the timber beams.

In a freshly cut wooden house, the cutting should be done taking into account the shrinkage of the walls, lowering it by 4% of the height of the walls.

It is better to lay the riser within the attic space along the beacon.

To do this, lay 2-3 rows of pipes over the cutting. A plumb line is lowered to one of the corners from the plane of the roof.

Brick chimney masonry

A nail is driven into the point on the roof lathing from which the plumb line is lowered. A nylon thread is tied to the nail, and the lower end of the thread is tied to a nail hammered into the seam of the chimney masonry in the corner. The laying is carried out along this corner, checking after 3-4 rows with a square or measuring diagonals.

The greatest difficulty is the laying of the pipe above the roof.

There, the masonry is carried out on a complex clay-cement mortar. I make the solution as follows: add 1 liter of cement for 10 liters to the clay-sand mortar from which the oven is served, a little water and mix thoroughly with a mixer.

If the pipe is laid without adding cement, it may turn out like this.

The pipe stand is taken out above the lower edge of the roof by 2 rows and the otter is laid down - the expansion of the pipe that protects the stand from precipitation.

They lay it with careful dressing of the stitches. The first row is increased by overlapping a brick by a quarter in one direction to form an overhang over the roof towards the slope. The second row begins to form an overhang from the sides and make it overlap on both sides by a quarter of a brick.

The inner walls of the canal lead strictly vertically. Since the pipes can be of different cross sections, and the roof has a different slope, the otter is laid individually each time. Here is one of the options for the ordering of the otter and the order of the fluff.

Laying fluff is a rather laborious and time-consuming job. To increase productivity, the fluff can be made of reinforced concrete. For reinforcement, 5-7 mm reinforcement is used at the rate of 4-5 bars on each side of the slab.

Two rods of reinforcement must necessarily lie on the brickwork.

The fluffing plate can be made on-site or separately with subsequent laying. In both cases, it is necessary to make a formwork. When fabricated on site, the formwork is secured as tightly as possible. The width of each side of the formwork must be at least 250mm from the "smoke". Between the fluff and the ceiling, be sure to put thermal insulation material... In this photo, these are two layers of 5mm asbestos.

When passing the ceiling with a double-circuit metal pipe, the hole in the ceiling is closed with a sheet of galvanized iron, on which basalt insulation and wraps around the pipe.

Sometimes, to simplify laying, instead of laying an otter, I make such a belt.

Above the otter, lay the neck of a pipe of the same section as the riser.

Finish the laying with a head. To protect the pipe from atmospheric precipitation, it is advisable to install a cap made of galvanized iron or other material on it. The cap protects the top of the pipe and prevents moisture from penetrating into the duct.

The head of the pipe plays only a decorative role, it does not have to be done.

If a head is made at the pipe, then the internal section at this point should not change so that there are no swirls of smoke in the pipe.

In order for the water not to stagnate on the horizontal surfaces of the otter and the head, they are plastered with a slope.

The height of the pipe above the roof has a significant effect on the operation of the furnace.

If the chimney is located in the area of ​​the wind support, then in windy weather, smoke can go into the room. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to lay the height of the pipe relative to the ridge of the roof according to the figure.

If you do not adhere to this rule, then this can happen.

After finishing laying the pipe, so that precipitation does not fall into the attic and does not damage the pipe riser, you need to close the gap between the pipe and the roof with galvanized iron or other material.

Here is a pipe version without an otter.

To prevent water from flowing down the pipe under the roof, an incision is made along the pipe with a grinder to a depth of 10 mm.

Then the sheet of the apron is inserted and the groove is filled with sealant.

You can learn more about laying chimneys and working on the roof in the DIY Stoves video tutorial.

Here are photos of finished pipes.

Protective materials for wooden structures
Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation
You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation
To the rescue - sandwich pipes
Pipe insulation in a primordial Russian bath
Stove fire protection

If you decide to build a bathhouse, then do not forget about the high-quality insulation of the stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may have serious problems with the fire of the building ceiling. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on the pressing problem today - do-it-yourself pipe insulation in a bath.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and the stove quickly heat up, a fire may occur. Moreover, according to tradition, wood is the material for the bath.

Even in the old days, it was customary to insulate walls, a ceiling, a stove, a chimney with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials that are rather poorly conductive. thermal energy and resistant to high temperatures.

So how to overlay the pipe from the stove today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for the purpose of fire safety and protection against condensation, so that cooling is slower and the flue system lasts longer.

It is a misconception that a few metal sheets will be enough to isolate from fire, with which they knock off the ceiling around the chimney. After all, the metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and it will not work as a heat insulator either.

A red brick is not always needed for lining a pipe, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties.

The reason is that such a design is not combined for every bath in design.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney from a fire, consider two options insulating materials as:

Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation

It is a unique material with polyethylene foam sandwiched between a pair of foil sheets.

With the help of thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate the chimney, moreover, independently.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of foil serves as a reliable protection of the pipe from significant overheating. With the help of wire or scotch tape, a metal master is attached to the thermal insulation, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second one plays a reflective function and can store up to 90% of thermal energy in a building. Folgoizol is a harmless material in comparison with other analogues, since compacted food foil acts as a foil. The material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures in the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, a good insulator.

Who else does not know how to insulate the chimney pipe in a sauna, we recommend covering the ceiling of the steam room, walls and chimney with foil-insulating material. As a result, you will get a room that resembles a thermos in design. The heat will remain in the sauna, and the bath will quickly pick up the temperature, and then slowly cool down.

To the rescue - sandwich pipes

For those who wish to equip a safe chimney in the bath, we suggest using a sandwich pipe.

This design includes several sections that can be easily placed into each other, i.e. looks like a layered cake.

We lay out the chimney made of brick

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

• layer of of stainless steel(from the inside);
• insulation in the form of basalt / mineral wool (in the middle);
• zinc coated steel (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of a chimney built into common system, and is designed to simultaneously solve two problems:

• protection against accumulation of soot inside;
• maintaining optimal temperature outside.

It is easy to assemble the sandwich pipe by yourself and use it for a sauna with an iron stove or a bath.

What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to overlay the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a primordial Russian bath

At elevated temperatures, refractory red brick retains its operational properties, therefore it is in demand when building a chimney in a bath with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed the protection of the pipe from fire and long-term preservation of heat.

The service life of the structure depends on how well the brick pipe is folded. Do not skimp on materials during the construction of the chimney, because

then the repair will be much more expensive for you.

Let's take a closer look at how to isolate a pipe in a bath from the ceiling:

1. Use asbestos to line the pipe outlet on the ceiling and through the roof.
2. Using galvanized material, insulate the walls from the inside of the pipe.

   Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrosion.

3. Run a box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling.
4. Pour expanded clay into the box to preserve heat and protect wooden floors from fire.

You professionally wrapped the pipe, but the work on the arrangement of the chimney did not end there.

The next step is measures to insulate the stove, ceiling and walls of the bath.

Stove fire protection

Modern metal stoves are mounted on a foundation, while sheathed with sheets of the same material on the back and side of the wall. If you independently beat the stove with only metal, then its appearance will not be very aesthetic. It is better to make the external brickwork with red brick, which insulates the stove from fire and keeps the heat in the bath.

Due to the fact that asbestos emits toxic substances at elevated temperatures, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room.

Natural felt is considered harmless, which, moreover, is a good insulator. For the price, this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering it emits a specific smell (felt does not ignite), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the stove on a wooden floor, then first it is better to spread the felt material in a couple of layers, then lay out the brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is advised to lay sheets of metal as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

And you will no longer have any questions about how to wind chimney pipes.

Before the start construction works smoke brick channels must be prepared, corresponding to the special design of the furnace, the features of the internal layout of the premises, the structural differences of the roof.

Continue until they cover the neck of the cut (workpiece). It should be noted that regardless of the external size of the inner section, the vertical smoke along the entire length is the same and is approximately 140x270 millimeters (average parameters, but in fact it can vary depending on the heater power and the size of the smoke).

After five rows of doors, the cut begins to adhere to the outer dimensions of the first row of approximately 590 x 450 mm, which is achieved by inserting half and a quarter of bricks. To avoid deflection in the flue section, insert 60 mm brick slabs inserted inside. In the third row, the dimensions of the brick chimney change again and are already 510 × 650 millimeters.

Brick slabs are also inserted inside. The outer dimensions of the fourth row are made of 570 × 710 millimeters, and inside there are bricks with a thickness of 90-100 millimeters. The fifth and sixth lines are made of solid bricks and strictly follow the dress code. If necessary, cutting can be continued for another type.

After the wall is completed, the brick-built brick structure is moved to the attic where the hoist is set up.

To reach it outwards, there must be the first hole on the roof. The foundation is very quick and easy to build, since it involves the implementation of conventional masonry and does not require manipulating the dimensions of the pipes.

When it comes to the roof, all the work goes to the roof. The vortex pattern continues to rise one or two rows above the roof, after which the construction of the otter begins.

This chimney segment consists of nine types, while it is positioned so that the outer dimension of each successive row exceeds the previous brick block.

At the same time, the size of the flue must remain the same, so choose carefully interior panels with which it is configured. At the beginning, the bricks are laid in such a way that only one gap is formed in front, and the outer size of the chimney does not change at the edges. In the third row, the otter gets wider due to the advanced bricks, which means that the front ledge gradually begins to appear on the sides.

In the fourth row, the side projections increase in length. The more their length increases in the fifth row, the greater the difference between the chimney and the roof overlap. In the sixth order, this gap is almost completely closed, and in the seventh case, the formation of the side surfaces is completed.

As a result of all the transformations described above, an anterior and two lateral projections are formed, the latter protrusions remain.

As you can see, at the moment there is nothing that even many experienced builders would ask the question of how to build a brick chimney, because the matter is rather complicated and requires the greatest attention and compliance with all technological requirements.

The last fourth projections are formed in the eighth order. Observation of brick ligation and careful selection is of particular importance. brick slabs, which allow the flue duct to remain unchanged with a constant change in the external dimensions of the pipe.

Brick chimney - we build a reliable structure independently

Finally, the ninth type of otter is defined similarly to the eighth, and at the same time the chimney neck already begins at this stage. Its size can vary depending on the height of the chimney. At this stage, you must adhere to the rules and regulations that apply to the height of the chimney above the roof, as this will have serious consequences for the draft during the operation of the stove (see “Chimney with hands”).

So, we figured out how to build a brick chimney, but you need to look for some of the nuances and problems that you will have to face in the process.

During the implementation of the wall, it is necessary to control the thoroughness of the ligation of the bricks with each other, especially in half, quarter and other parts and brick slabs.

A skilled worker with stoves will not be a big problem to distribute a part of the required size from all bricks, but for those with insufficient experience it can be very difficult.

The best way out of this position is to buy a special grinder... This makes it easy to obtain chimney masonry elements of the required size, which is especially important if panels are needed to form a smoke channel between the cutter or otters.

It is important to remember that the thickness of the seam directly affects the strength of the brick, and as it is thinner, the chimney will become stronger.

In this regard, you must carefully measure the location of the future installation, in accordance with this data, use the cutting line of the knives and only after that you cut. Sometimes it may even be necessary for some of the bricks to be irregular in shape, so a mistake here can cost broken bricks and time to waste.

To summarize all of the above, it is easy to understand that it is very difficult to install a brick chimney with your own hands on a person who does not have enough experience.

But don't give up, because this is an easy way for beginners to take advantage of the building. Also read: "Do-it-yourself chimney."

Alternative construction of a brick chimney

If the above method of laying the chimney seems too difficult and impossible for someone, then do not give up and do not give up. There is an alternative way to install a brick chimney that has the least skill. This means the implementation of normal masonry, in which the entire chimney, arising from the pipe and ending with the head, will have the same size.

There is a logical question: what in this case cuts and tears? They will also be, but they will also be made of concrete. Also read: "Diagram of a chimney for a gas boiler".

Brick bricks for gas boilers and ventilation, detailed video instruction:

Before starting work, you must first place metal rods, wire or reinforcement with a diameter of 5-7 millimeters.

When installing the chimney in places where it is necessary to cut the otter, the parts of the envelope should be installed in the brick. It is important to ensure that no metal elements cross the flue duct. After completing the chimney wall, you only need to install the support in the right place, prepare the cement mortar and fill it (see also: "Do-it-yourself chimney cleaning - methods").

As you can see, even without much experience and with minimal knowledge of brick bricks, your hands to build a chimney, without resorting to the help of builders, and instead chose to install metal pipes which, when executed, are much worse than brick chimneys.

If you have something that does not work right away, do not panic, just study the diagram more carefully, see tips experienced craftsmen, try to figure out what is causing the problem, the next attempt will most likely be successful.

The reward for hard work and inertia will be a good and functional chimney that will last for over a decade and ensure the heating equipment works properly.

Also read: "The device of the chimney in the bathroom."

The technology of laying a brick chimney itself is quite simple and straightforward, since, unlike the brick oven itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot ignore the colossal significance of this department of the furnace, since the quality of heating the house and the safety of both the structure itself and the people living in it directly depend on it.

Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on the recommendations of experienced craftsmen and on the developed and tested design schemes.
When erecting a chimney, it should be remembered that the evenness of the inner walls of the channel is no less important than the aesthetics of the outer masonry. This circumstance determines not only the stability of the required thrust in the furnace, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves on smooth walls, without protruding solution and deepened seams, a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste, and the channel overgrows much slower.

What are the types of brick chimneys?
Chimneys of brick ovens may have different types, depending on the place of their installation, the design of the stove, as well as on how many heating devices will be connected to the pipe. So, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

Mounted chimneys. The most widely used designs are shell pipes... They are good because they are compact and do not take up additional space in the room at all, but simply are a vertical continuation of the oven.
A stacked chimney is, in fact, an upward extension of the stove. Very often, the orders of the furnace include immediately the layout of the initial section of the pipe.
They are erected on top of the last brick row overlapping the furnace, around the hole left.

Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, rafter system and rises above the roof.

Indigenous chimneys. This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove to it, or several heating devices located on one or even several floors.

The main chimney allows connecting metal stoves to it. And also several heating devices located at different levels of the building.
In addition to metal, such a pipe can be connected and brick ovens... This type of chimney is especially convenient in the event that it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in adjacent rooms.

For example, a kitchen needs an oven with hob, and for the next room - only heating. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a main chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heating devices are connected.

To a pipe of this type, not only two, but also three to four stoves can be connected, located on different floors of the house. In any case, it is necessary to very accurately calculate the size of the internal channel of the chimney, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices work simultaneously.

Wall chimneys are built near the main (external or internal) walls or built into them. They can be used, just like the indigenous ones, to connect several stoves located on different floors of a building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is located, as it were, outside living quarters, without occupying their area. For example, on the first floor of the house a fireplace can be built and connected to the wall chimney (there the chimney will look more like a top-mounted one according to the principle of structure), and on the second floor a chimney pipe of a metal stove is cut in (the same as in the version with a fundamental requirement).

The disadvantages of this chimney option are the considerable cost of the project and the laboriousness of the work. Firstly, much more building material will be required to erect this structure.

Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise in winter period, with temperature drops, condensation will form in the internal ducts, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, if this option of the chimney is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the area inside the premises and bring the pipe along inner wall at home.

Parameters of brick chimneys
The main sections of the brick chimney
The brick chimney is subdivided into departments that have a purpose and are named differently.

These features must be clarified immediately, so that in the future it would be easier to understand the description of the work on the construction of the pipe (Figure 5).
1 - The head of the pipe. Laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are shifted to the outside to form a kind of "visor", as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the walls of the pipe from atmospheric precipitation.

2 - The neck of the pipe is located immediately under the head and has the same perimeter along its entire height, without protrusions, extensions or narrowings.
3 - "Otter" has a more complex masonry scheme, since it has a protective function. First, the "otter" masonry, hanging over the gap formed at the junction of the roofing material and the pipe walls, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of waterproofing material.

Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the place of passage through the roofing, due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.
4 - A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted in the lower part of the otter, forms a kind of ebb, which closes the joint between the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 - "Flare" - this expanded part of the pipe, located in the area of ​​its passage through the attic floor.

The walls of the "fluff", like the "otters", are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and they should not be allowed to overheat.

6 - Roofing structure.
7 - A riser is a straight section of a pipe that has an even masonry along its entire height and is located in the attic space from "fluff" to "otter".
8 - Attic floor.

9 - On top of the head, an umbrella-cap is very often fixed, which will protect the inner channel of the chimney from water and debris getting into it.

The main function of the chimney is to effectively remove the combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere.

How to build a brick chimney: a treasure trove of useful tips for self-construction

For this, the chimney is connected to numerous ducts in the furnace structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then during the operation of the heater, good draft should be created inside the channels, which will contribute to the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the fact that the heat generated by it will literally fly out of the furnace "into the pipe".

In a word, everything needs a "golden mean".

Scheme of the correct ratio of the height of the chimney, depending on the location on the roof (Figure 6):
If the chimney exits through the roof covering at a distance L1 not exceeding 1500 mm from the ridge (when measured horizontally), then its upper end edge must be raised above the ridge by at least 500 mm.
The chimney passing through the roof at a distance of 1500 to 3000 mm from the ridge (L2 in the diagram) must be at least at the level of the ridge.

The chimney, installed from the ridge more than 3000 mm (L3), should be located on a conditional line drawn through the ridge point at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizontal with its upper edge.

In any of the above cases, regardless of the distance to the ridge, the height of the pipe above roofing cannot be less than 500 mm. This fully applies to all flat roofs.

At the end of the topic of chimney parameters - an important remark. Self-calculation is great, but the role of a properly designed and folded chimney is so great (both for heating efficiency and for ensuring safety) that the best option there will always be professional design.

Amateur performance in such important matters is a very risky business.

A brick chimney is a classic solution that has been used in everyday life for a long time and does not lose its popularity, despite the fact that more and more modern solutions are being introduced today.

This structure is being erected at the stage of building the object and can have a different configuration.

1. Features of brick chimneys
2. Types of bricks used for the chimney
3. Pros and cons of brick construction
4. Preparation for work
5. Step-by-step description of work
6. Features and nuances of masonry

A little about chimneys made of bricks

The heating system and the outflow of combustion products in the house must be organized without fail.

For this purpose, in particular, a brick chimney is used, through which the exhaust air is removed during the operation of the heating devices. Usually, a discharge structure made of such material is used for single heating and heating devices.

According to the configuration, the brick chimney can be square or round.

But the second option will cost more due to the complexity of the masonry. The outlet structure is being erected in parallel with the construction of the walls of the building. Today it is allowed to build a chimney with a side length of at least 140 mm, and if the configuration is round, then the diameter should be 140 mm. In the old days, the allowable limit was 150 mm.

We watch the video, a little about installation works brick chimney:

The thickness of the walls is also regulated by certain norms.

It is not recommended to break the integrity of the structure with holes for cable and so on. The brick chimney must be solid, and in addition to this, the inner surface of the pipe must be as smooth as possible, without brick protrusions and cement flows along the seams.

Type of bricks for chimney and their features

Gas heating determines the type of material used in the construction of the outlet structure.

The difference between them lies in the value of the withstand temperature.

So, in the first case it comes about 800 degrees, and in the second - about 1,000 degrees.

All other options, for example, lightweight, porous or hollow material, are prohibited. Unlike the walls of the house, brick chimneys of different types cannot be plastered from the inside.

The erection of various parts of the structure is marked by the application cement mortar, excellent in composition.

For that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof, a cement-sand working mixture is used.

Brick chimney - what you need to know

For masonry below the level of the roof, cement-lime or lime mortar should be used.

If we compare different types of brick chimneys with other structures, for example, with a sandwich chimney, then in this case a single-wall solution is used. "Sandwich" is a double-walled version, that is, it is assumed that the chimney consists of two pipes: a larger and a smaller diameter.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick construction

Brick chimneys of different types have acquired a high degree of popularity due to a number of features, which will be discussed below:

• Increased resistance to high temperatures, as already mentioned, fireclay bricks withstand a limit of up to 1,000 degrees, while the products of combustion from the stove and fireplace reach the limit of 750 degrees;
• The increased degree of thermal conductivity ensures a high efficiency of heating equipment, since brick chimneys of different types do not contribute to a rapid outflow of heat;
• The cost of construction from this material is low;
• Aesthetic value is equally important, especially in cases where a building is being erected in a certain style.

But in addition to the advantages, the brick square chimney has a number of significant disadvantages:

• The corners of the structure contribute to the formation of vortex flows, which in turn represent a factor of counteraction to the outflow of combustion products;
• The walls of the outlet structure are not always perfectly smooth, which contributes to the settling of soot on the rough surface, and this eventually leads to a decrease in the working space, as a result of which traction worsens;
• Regular exposure to aggressive environments and temperature changes, which contributes to the formation of condensation, leads to the fact that chimneys for red brick stoves gradually collapse.

Taking into account all of the above, and also taking into account the features of other types of outlet structures, the user decides for himself which of the options is preferable.

But still, the most common today is the brickwork of the chimney.

Preparation for work

The beginning of any type of construction work is the preparation of a project. In order for the outlet structure to function effectively, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:

1. The dimensions of the pipe, namely its height and diameter, are determined by the characteristics of the heating equipment. But a brick multi-format chimney pipe cannot be less than 5 m.

   The relationship between these parameters and the traction force is obvious, since the larger the pipe section with insufficiently powerful heating equipment, the weaker the air outflow will be. And if the diameter of the pipe is too small, then even if there is sufficient height, chimneys for red brick stoves will "smoke".

2. The construction of a discharge structure in rooms that are well heated is carried out without pipe insulation.

   But in the area adjacent to the ceiling (up to 60 cm in length), a "sandwich" structure is mounted.

3. The construction of a brick chimney implies the need to provide free access for maintenance. For this, the butt joints of the structure are located at different levels with the ceiling. Otherwise, if difficulties arise in the operation of the system, it will be very problematic to get to the desired section of the pipe.

We watch the video, the beginning of the pipe:

It is important to have a good idea of ​​what elements the construction of a brick chimney is made of.

So, the main components of the structure:

• Sliding pipe - is led from the furnace itself;
• Fluff - this is the name of the brickwork of the chimney pipe, which is made with a broadening of up to 300 mm, but at the same time the original inner diameter of the pipe is preserved;
• Riser - rises in the attic and runs to the very roof;
• Otter - laying of the chimney pipe, which is carried out with a broadening of up to 100 mm and is an obstacle to the penetration of precipitation into the room;
• Neck - is built on the principle of a riser and is erected immediately after the otter;
• The head is the last section with a broadening that crowns the pipe.

Description of work

It has already been said above about which brick a multi-format chimney is laid from.

Having dealt with the stages of work, you can proceed to the beginning of the masonry:

1. An overhead pipe is under construction. The laying is carried out by means of the bandaging method. At this stage, you should stop before reaching about 6 brick rows to the overlap.
2. A do-it-yourself red brick chimney is further built with a widening, which is called fluff.

   Recommended dimensions of this element: 140X270 mm along the inner perimeter of the pipe, and outside the values ​​590X450 mm are selected. Construction is carried out using plates to get the desired result. The next row has parameters: 510X650 mm, while plates with a thickness of 60 mm are also used. The result is a row with dimensions of 570X710 mm. When the broadening is ready, another row of the same dimensions is erected, taking into account the dressing.

3. A brick multi-format chimney for a metal furnace is built further along the dimensions of the overhead pipe, but above the fluff.

   This part is called the riser. At this stage, you must first prepare the outlet for the pipe in the roof.

4. Chimneys for red brick stoves are built after the riser is removed from the roof no higher than 2 rows. Then the laying of the otter begins. This is another widening. In height, this section is equal to nine rows, each of which is wider than the previous one by about half a brick. Brick plates are still installed inside the widening. As you can see, it is possible to build a brick multi-format chimney for a metal stove and other heating equipment on your own, but the main difficulty is precisely these areas with widening.
5. When thinking about how to build a red brick chimney with the highest quality, one should take into account the need to close the hole formed between the roof and the pipe.

   This is done by increasing the width of the brick rows.

6. When choosing which brick is suitable for a chimney, you need to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue. Since during the construction of the neck, it is desirable that its quality and color harmoniously fit into the overall picture of the house.

   The head is built according to the fluffing principle.

Masonry features

In addition to which brick to choose for the chimney, you should also pay attention to the thickness of the joints. The thinner they are, the more durable the structure can be obtained as a result. If it was not possible to give a beautiful shape to the broadenings, you can correct the flaws with a concrete mixture.

We look detailed video, stages of work:

Plugging a brick multi-format chimney is not a prerequisite.

But such a measure allows a completely sealed pipe to be obtained, which will increase the reliability and efficiency of the structure. Plugging implies the installation of a stainless steel pipe inside the brick walls of the chimney. This option is only possible on straight sections.

Thus, in addition to the main stages of work, there are a number of nuances, which you also need to find out about in advance, so that the chimney design turns out to be flawless and lasts as long as possible.

If you want to enjoy the warmth in your home and at the same time protect it from fire, try building a classic brick chimney, such a structure is relatively easy to build with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology of its construction.

In any private dwelling where one or another autonomous heating system functions, a structure must be installed that removes the products of fuel combustion. Now there are a lot of the latest solutions that allow you to organize such a system. They involve the use of the most modern materials and technology.

At the same time, brick chimneys, proven over centuries of stable operation, do not give up their positions. They, like many decades ago, are being built by the owners of small country houses, and the owners of luxury cottages. Brick chimneys have many operational advantages:

• The availability of material for construction and the relatively low cost of installation work.
• High resistance to high temperatures. Chimneys made of high-quality bricks can withstand heating up to 900–1000 ° С.
• Excellent design appearance. This is of great importance for residential buildings that are built in any original style.
• Increased thermal conductivity. Due to this, the heating equipment installed in the house is characterized by a high efficiency rate. Brick chimneys trap heat inside the dwelling, counteracting its rapid outflow.

Brick chimney

The designs under consideration for the removal of combustion products also have disadvantages. Under the influence of temperature jumps and due to the influence of aggressive media, the brick begins to collapse. There is no particular problem with this. A brick chimney can always be repaired, restoring its performance. The second minus is that the walls of the described structures from the inside are quite difficult to make perfectly smooth. Because of this, soot collects on them, which causes a deterioration in the draft of the chimney.

This phenomenon is due to a decrease in the space (working) inside the structure. This problem is also solvable. You just need to regularly clean the brick chimney from soot. And then there will be no difficulties (really insoluble) with its operation.

In shape, a brick structure can be round or square. There is no fundamental difference in the operation of such chimneys. But craftsmen usually equip square structures to drain soot. They are much easier and faster to build than round structures.

Also chimneys made of bricks are usually subdivided into: mounted and root. The packaged structure is an integral element (furnace), its continuation, without which the unit cannot be operated. But chimneys of the root type are installed as stand-alone structures. They are placed next to the stove and connect the soot pipe to the heating unit by means of a pipe. Chimneys of the root type should be placed on a base separate from the stove and house. This, of course, complicates the installation work.

Back-mounted structure made of bricks

Most often, such structures are used to remove smoke from heating units made of brick or cast iron.

An important nuance. It is allowed to connect not one furnace to the main structure, but several at once. Moreover, it can be, and a unit that runs on gas. For the construction of the chimneys of interest to us, hollow, porous and lightweight bricks cannot be used. Use only fireclay or solid red blocks that can withstand high temperatures without problems.

The shell-on structure consists of several zones. For an ordinary person, their names may not sound very common. Next, we present the main parts of brick smoke exhaust structures and describe their features:

1. The lower part of the chimney - the overhead pipe - is mounted directly on the heating unit. When installing bricks, they are laid with a special dressing.
2. After the overhead pipe, there is a fluffing (otherwise - cutting). This part is understood as the expansion of the chimney, which they begin to lay out for 5-6 brick rows from the overlap between the floors of the house. There is one subtlety here. Only the outer part of the fluff is made wider by 25–40 cm. But its inner diameter is similar to the section of the entire chimney. The fluff protects the floors from high temperatures. It, in fact, performs the function of thermal insulation. That is why its walls are made so thick.
3. There is a neck in the fluff. It is designed to install a special valve, which makes it possible to change the furnace draft by adjusting the intensity of fuel combustion.
4. A pillar of bricks with a smoke exhaust duct laid inside it is called a riser. Structurally, it is placed before the fluff and after it - in the attic floor. The riser is laid up to the very roof of the building.
5. Above the roof, an otter is mounted - an extension (about 10 cm on each side) of a special type. It protects the attic from rainfall.
6. There is another neck above the otter. Its parameters are similar to those of the chimney.

The main parts of a brick smoke exhaust structure

The end of the smoke-removing structure is the head. It consists of an otter platform and a cap protruding above the neck. An umbrella, deflector or cap is installed on the head (or rather, on its cap), which prevent debris carried by the wind and atmospheric precipitation from entering the pipe. The main chimneys have a similar design. But, as mentioned, several heating units can be connected to them. Therefore, the structure will have several sections and risers.

First you need to decide on the scheme according to which you will mount the chimney. It can be ordered from specialists or found ready plan on the Internet at specialized sites. The scheme you like must be carefully studied. After that, you can start construction work.

Laying is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. First of all, an overhead pipe should be erected. Its lower part is installed on a layer of mortar consisting of clay and dry clean construction sand... The laying of the pipe is carried out by the method of bandaging (each row is shifted sideways by half of the brick to ensure maximum adhesion). Before reaching the overlap of 5-6 lines, you stop mounting the overhead pipe.
2. The laying of the fluff is in progress. The standard size of the broadening along the outer perimeter of the chimney is 59x45 cm, along the inner - 14x27 cm. The expansion of the pipe is achieved by displacing the laid bricks along the edges of each row by about 4 cm. Important! When the laying of the fluff is over, be sure to overlay the expansion made with 10 mm asbestos in sheets or any other non-combustible material.
3. Now we are making an otter. This stage requires home master special accuracy and care. Each row of the otter should protrude to the outside by 1/3 and form a kind of step. The masonry of the first line is similar in size to the last row of the earlier expansion. Then lay out the second step and all the following.

Masonry brick smoke exhaust pipe

The next step is the installation of the riser. Its laying is done in the attic. The riser must be built close to the roof structure of the house. It passes through the roof and emerges 50–80 cm above the ridge of the building. The masonry ends with the arrangement of the chimney neck. At its end, a head is placed, on which a protective device (cap, umbrella) is put on.

You can study all the stages of laying a brick chimney in more detail in the video that we attach to this section. Look carefully at it and you are guaranteed to be able to make a reliable chimney with your own hands.

Finally, I want to give a few useful tips for novice home craftsmen who have no real experience in building chimneys. Consider the following:

1. It is advisable to make the seams of the masonry thin (no more than 1.5 cm). In this case, the smoke-evacuating structure will serve you for many decades.
2. It is convenient to trim bricks with a manual cut-off grinder.
3. When building otters and butchering, you can mount in brickwork metal rods to increase the reliability of the structure. At the same time, do not allow the reinforcement elements to block the smoke channel.
4. All corners of the chimney must be straight, and the walls must be perfectly even. When laying out each element of the structure, use a plumb line and a building level.
5. To increase the reliability and stability of the chimney structure, attach it to the wall every 0.3 m with steel anchors (of course, if the chimney is located directly at the wall surface).

Installation of metal rods in the brickwork of the chimney

Experienced experts also advise laying fiberglass or asbestos material in the area where the chimney connects to the roof and ceiling. This will almost completely eliminate the risk of fire.

Brick is a material that is widely used in the world. It is a unified and versatile artificial building stone. Thus, a brick is used for the construction of multiple objects: country cottage area, house, industrial buildings and elements of these buildings. It is worth understanding the specific features of working with brick as the most demanded building material on the example of laying pipes from it.

Brick is a unified and versatile artificial building stone.

Bricklayer

As a mortar for laying bricks, it is best to use a cement-sand compound, in which the ratio of cement and sand is 1: 4-6. Its task is to eliminate the displacement of the bricks relative to each other. During the masonry process, the brick is heavily loaded by displacement and compression, however, not by rupture. Thus, this solution has a rather lean appearance. Sometimes, to increase plasticity, a part of clay or lime is added to it.

The main tools used in the masonry process:

• trowel (it is used to apply the solution);
• pickaxe (represents a hammer with a sharpened striker; used for undercut and splitting bricks);
• grinder (allows for a fairly accurate brick trimming);
• building level (helps to lay the brick evenly);
• plumb line;
• high strength cords.

Features of chimney pipes

Some people wonder what material is the right way to fold the chimney yourself. The answer to this question is obvious, however, there are some nuances that must be taken into account when choosing a specific one. Specific areas of application of bricks are diverse: with its help, they can produce cladding and masonry of walls of load-bearing, non-load-bearing type and other elements of structures. Apart from this, there is one that is used for laying foundations, walls, vaults and bricks for stacking a pipe, a production furnace.

Brick pipes, in turn, serve to remove flue gases during the heating of the stove and to use the stove without fear. A brick chimney is a profitable and reliable solution. Despite the fact that such structures are used quite actively, there should be no problems with finding a decent employee. A traditional brick chimney is installed at the stage of building a house. You can build it yourself as a self-supporting structure or as part of a building wall. Regardless of which channels will be placed in the chimney brick (chimney, ventilation, gas discharge), the construction process always has one algorithm.

The main components of the pipe:

• otter;
• roof;
• neck;
• metal cap;
• insulation;
• smoke damper;
• rafters;
• cement solution;
• head;
• chimney;
• fluff;
• lathing;
• overlapping beam.

Rooftop accommodation

The pipe should be properly equipped in the immediate vicinity of the ridge of the roof, however, this is not always possible to implement, since the stove can be placed in a hard-to-reach part of the house. Thus, depending on where the oven is located, the height of the structure to be folded is determined.

In the case when the structure is located no further than 1.5 meters from the ridge, then its height should be 0.5 - 0.6 meters. If the distance from the ridge is 1.5 - 3 meters, then the head should be at the level of the ridge or even rise.

Laying fluff and otter

A fluff is a large expansion of the pipe in the area of ​​its intersection with the attic floor. The main task of this component is to protect wooden coatings from fire and strong overheating. The correct thickness of the fluff should be at least one brick. In this case, a thermal insulating layer is simply necessary. The latter is best created using felt impregnated with a solution of clay or an asbestos sheet. A stove that is planned to be heated for more than 3 hours also applies to this rule.

In the case when it was not possible to create a layer of thermal insulation, it would be correct to increase the thickness to one and a half bricks. With an increase in the heating time to more than 3 hours, the thickness of the cut must be increased to two bricks without insulation or with the creation of a layer of thermal insulation.

The otter serves to prevent snow and rain from entering the attic through the cracks between the roof and the chimney. These slots are closed with a collar made of roofing metal.

The otter is a kind of pipe extension located above the roof. It looks like a small overflow, the purpose of which is to protect the house from the penetration of precipitation from the atmosphere. Reinforced concrete and brick can be used to create an otter.

This component consists of 10 rows:

1. The first row has five bricks.
2. The second row must be increased on both sides by one quarter of a brick (while on one side you need to mount an insert in three quarters of a brick, and on the other - in a quarter).
3. The third row is equipped with a canopy on both sides of the pipe.

45 degree roof otter masonry

Accordingly, the fourth and subsequent rows are necessary in order to increase the resulting canopy. The seventh row extends the canopy to three sides of the pipe. The eighth row creates a canopy on four sides. The ninth row is placed by analogy with the eighth (while the process is complemented by bandaging the seams), and the tenth is placed exactly like the first.

In order to guarantee the flow of water from the otter and the head and to protect them from various kinds of destruction, a cement solution is applied to the top of the structure, which is subsequently leveled and smoothed out.

Before starting construction operations yourself, it is advised to prepare chipped and broken bricks: three-quarters and plates, halves and fours.

Cladding of inner pipe planes

The inner part of the chimney is lined at the construction stage. This greatly increases the strength of the structure. It is possible to carry out the lining of the chimney using hard casing or soft corrugated pipes. In the latter case, the work is simplified. In addition, you can find a method of lining the inner planes of chimneys and pipes using metal foil with a polymer film.

External finishing

The outer plane of the pipe is finished mainly for insulation overall design... It will be about heating the riser. Pipe finishing can be performed using several technologies. One of the most common methods is plastering, which is carried out along the entire plane of the riser using lime-cement mortar, to which slag is added. It is worth noting that the slag must be sieved in advance. To do this, use a sieve with a maximum mesh size of 5 mm. The plaster should be laid on the pipe in two layers (each layer is 5-6 mm thick). In order to prevent the mortar from shedding, it must be placed on a wire mesh, where the cross-section of the cells does not exceed 2 cm. During the drying process of the plaster, certain cracks may appear in it (they should be repaired with a similar solution).

Chimney. Peculiarities

The stove includes the placement of a chimney in the inside. Such channels are connected to the chimney and the firebox. The chimney can be either long or short, with one or several turns - chimneys. In particular, the latter are referred to as smoke channels. They can be horizontal and vertical, as well as release and lifting. The cross-section of the channels should be 252x252 mm (brick by brick), 130x130mm (in half a brick) and 250x130mm (in half a brick). The inner plane of the channels should have an even shape to reduce the resistance to gas movement. The task of absolutely each of the channels is to accumulate the heat of the exhaust gases and give it to heating the house.

Base for construction

A foundation is a component that you need to equip any chimney with. It can be folded from solid brick, stone, but it is mainly created using reinforced concrete. The base has the shape of a rectangular parallelepiped and is at least 30 cm high.Its width and length are selected in such a way that it protrudes at least 15 cm from each side.However, the designer should always make a decision about its dimensions, taking into account the bearing capacity the mass of the pipe and its base. In addition, he has the right to determine the class of concrete and the number of required reinforcement.

In the process of creating the foundation of a brick chimney, it is important to take into account the parameters of the protective layer of the main reinforcement, which can be:

• 5 cm (in the case of a lean concrete base);
• 7 cm (if the foundation does not include insulation).

Remember! If the chimney is located in the interior of the house, then the sole of its base can be 50 cm below floor level. However, if the pipe is part of the outer wall, then the base of the foundation should be located at the depth of the foundation of the house, that is, below the freezing limit of the soil.

Chimney barrel

The minimum dimensions of channels made of bricks should be 14x14 cm, that is, 1 / 2x1 / 2. Depending on the purpose and efficiency of the channel height, it is possible to erect a chimney of a larger section, for example, 14x20 cm, 20x27cm, 20x20 cm.

It is advised to fold these components in the form of a square or rectangle, the aspect ratio of which is 2: 3. For laying brick channels, the same mortar is used as for the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings. In the process of laying, the usual suture dressing is mainly used - a variable laying of spoon and butt rows.

The oven must have a smooth plane of the channels, without any depressions and protrusions. Thus, it is recommended to build them using steel or wooden templates. As the masonry progresses, the template is gently lifted up by the handles, thus ensuring the exact size and smoothness of the channel walls.

A brick chimney is usually erected with a deviation from the vertical (relative). In this case, the inner walls of the channels are laid using bricks perpendicular to the slope line. The outer side of the chimney shafts must be embroidered or plastered along the entire height, with the exception of areas of passage through fire-resistant coatings (for example, reinforced concrete).

If the channels of the brick chimney are laid in outside wall houses and if they pass through the attic, then the outer walls of the pipe must be made brick thick (25 cm) or additionally insulated, for example, using mineral wool.

Chimney complex

The most modern brick chimney mechanism is the chimney complex. It is a correctly assembled set of hollow-type modular blocks made of lightweight concrete. A ceramic pipe insulated with mineral wool is mounted inside them. The systems are supplied in various pipe diameters: from 14 to 60 cm and can be used with any available heating equipment (boiler, stove, fireplace). These systems also make it possible to group chimney, ventilation and flue ducts in the chimney using special combined modular components.

Wall fillet

Now a traditional kiln is being built in close proximity to the supporting structures of the walls. Moreover, it can be laid out not from brick, but, for example, from aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete or ceramic porous blocks of the hollow type. In this situation, it is necessary to connect the structure of the pipe and walls using anchors made of strip steel 1.5 x 20 mm or wire with a diameter of 6 mm. However, given the large dimensions of current wall materials, the anchors need to be folded in each row of the wall. In this case, the chimney must be laid at a minimum depth of 20 cm in order for the stove to function reliably.

Hello, friends!

Agree, in our age of glass and stainless steel, sometimes you really want a little warmth and comfort. Remember how we drew a house with a chimney as a child? And the Russian stove and brick chimney have always been an integral part of any fairy tale.

The chimney is an important part of the heating system, which is a vertical pipe folded in a certain way.

The function of the chimney is to remove combustion products and provide an oxygen supply (draft) required for fuel combustion.

How the chimney works

A brick chimney consists of several parts, located inside and outside the room. The pipe walls in contact with the ceilings should be as thick as possible. This is required by fire safety regulations. Going beyond the roof, the bricks of the walls should cover the hole in the roof.

There are three types of construction - simplified, classic single and expanded with ventilation holes.

The diagrams of all brick chimneys are about the same. Consider the main, classic:

1. ... Manufactured in different types and forms. Designed to protect against the penetration of atmospheric precipitation, dust and dirt into the pipe. Attaches to the protruding parts of the head.
2. Head. Consists of protruding bricks. Protects the pipe neck from dripping down the protective umbrella.
3. Neck of the pipeline.
4. Waterproofed surface of an otter. Designed to remove sediments that have fallen on the neck. Most often it is insulated with a cement layer.
5. Otter. Part of the pipe with thickened walls. It is located in the place where the chimney passes through the roof. Thicker walls are regulated by fire safety rules, they protect the insulation and other flammable layers of the roofing cake from overheating.
6. Roof;
7. Lathing;
8. Rafter system;
9. Riser. Located in the attic.
10. Fluff. The part of the pipe is similar in principle to the otter. It has the same thick walls that protect the floor between the living room and the attic from overheating. Sometimes, instead of fluffing, a metal box is mounted, filled with bulk non-combustible materials (sand, etc.). The thickness of this protective layer is 100-150mm.
11. Overlapping;
12. Insulation. ... Serves to protect wooden beams overheating overlapping;
13. ... Allows you to regulate the removal of combustion products.
14. The neck of the pipe connecting the stove to the chimney.

Principle of operation

The basic principle of the chimney is based on the temperature difference between the air inside the chimney and outside. This difference creates cravings. The higher the pipe and the temperature difference, the greater the thrust. Because the density of cold air is greater than that of warm air, there is a pressure difference at the base of the house and the top of the chimney. This difference ensures the flow of cold air into the house. Thus, the stove in the house not only warms, but also creates natural ventilation.

The thrust depends on the channel cross-sectional area and the pipe height. For example, to create good draft in the fireplace, the chimney cross-section should be at least 1/10 of the area of ​​the inlet.

At the same time, too wide a pipe reduces thrust. Therefore, it would be more correct to increase its height. For stoves and fireplaces optimal height pipes - 5m from the grate level.

Types and designs

What kind of brick is needed for a chimney?

Only red baked brick is suitable for the installation of chimneys. The use of silicate is prohibited, due to its instability to high temperatures.

It is impossible to save on brick, this is fraught with the destruction of the entire structure and large expenses for its alteration.

Red brick has its own characteristics and is divided into 3 grades:

1. The first grade is the optimal option for the chimney. It features the highest clay density, low porosity, smooth edges and smooth edges. Frost resistant. When tapped, it emits a moderately sonorous sound. Scarlet to orange in color.
2. Grade II (unburned) is acceptable for use. Has a pale reddish or pinkish color, dull response when tapped. The brick is rather porous, the ribs are crumbled. It can be used in the chimney device, but subject to additional processing.
3. The third grade is pre-burnt, not suitable for laying pipelines. Dark red, fragile, sonorous. It cracks easily under the influence of temperature differences and mechanical stress.

The option with a higher cost is fireclay bricks. It is more often used in the construction of fireboxes and fireplaces, rather than outlet pipes. It is a derivative of special fireclay (refractory) mixed with quartz. Withstands temperatures up to 900C.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any constructive solution The brick chimney has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• Resistance to high temperatures of flue gases;
• Brick keeps warm for a long time;
• Low material cost;
• Aesthetic appearance, style.

• Swirls appear in the corners of the chimney;
• Soot lingers on rough walls;
• Large weight of the structure, and, accordingly, increased load on the foundation.

The service life of such a chimney

The service life of brick chimneys is short. In a good variant it is 7-12 years old.

The lifespan of the pipeline can be increased by protection from the outside and from the inside, by maintenance and regular cleaning.

Do it yourself or order

At the beginning of the 20th century, when gas and electric heating was absent, stoves made of stone and brick were ubiquitous. There were many good styling masters, much more than now.

If you decide to order a fireplace or stove and turn to the help of a specialist, be sure to pay attention to his professionalism. To do this, it will not be superfluous to look at the documents confirming his qualifications and get acquainted with the portfolio of works. A poorly constructed chimney is life-threatening. Insufficient cravings will lead to the formation of dangerous carbon monoxide, which kills more than one and a half million people every year. In addition, backdraft can lead to fire. Even if the catastrophe can be avoided, the chimney will still have to be moved, and this is double spending.

Therefore, do not skimp on good master... But it makes no sense to overpay, for example, for fireclay bricks recommended by many stackers. Regular red - withstands temperatures up to 80C, and at a price it is almost 2 times cheaper.

If it was decided to make a chimney yourself - carefully read all the requirements of building codes and fire safety.

I will give all the necessary ones below. In addition, you should accurately calculate the dimensions, draw up a drawing, familiarize yourself with all the necessary literature and watch a couple of dozen videos on the topic.

The chimney can be of 3 types:

• Nasadny. Here, the oven acts as a base. The minimum wall thickness of the oven is 2 bricks.

• Root. Located on a separate foundation. The flue pipe of the boiler or stove is connected to the chimney by means of a connecting cross-over hose.

• Wall. It is a channel in a load-bearing wall.

By the way, a brick pipe is not needed for a metal furnace - an ordinary iron pipe is enough.

Building regulations

Chimneys for private houses and baths are regulated by the following building codes:

1. SP 7.13130.2013 "Requirements for fire safety";
2. SNiP 41-01-2003 - "Air conditioning, ventilation, heating";
3. VDPO - "Rules for production work, repair of smoke channels and furnaces."

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

Requirements for fire safety of chimneys are reduced to the following main points.

• The wall thickness of the outlet pipe must be at least 120mm;
• Between inner layer the roofing cake and the chimney must provide for a fire retreat - at least 130mm;
• When applied in construction attic floor combustible insulation - it is imperative to organize protection in the form of sand filling;
• The fluff should end at least 70 mm from the upper and lower boundaries of the overlap;
• The distance from the inner surface of the hot chimney to the combustible structures of the ceiling (fire cut) must be 500 mm or more;
• The walls of the furnace retreat from the combustible structural elements by at least 250 mm;
• The distance between the upper edge of the furnace and the roof slabs is 350 mm for intermittent furnaces and 1 m for furnaces with a constant one. This condition is swinging a kiln made of three rows of bricks. In case there are 2 rows, the distances need to be increased by one and a half times;
• Do not connect two heat sources to one flue gas system.

Traction force

The traction force is ensured by a correctly selected pipe cross-section and its height. The cross-section of the smoke ducts made of bricks is calculated based on the power of the heater.

The chimney height is calculated using special programs and formulas, but there is one rule - the height of the chimney above the ridge should be less than 500mm (if the distance from the chimney to the ridge is less than 3m).

In a vertical brick chimney, draft is generated by convection.

A prerequisite for the occurrence of an upward flow is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the exhaust products of combustion: the larger it is, the stronger the thrust.

Therefore, for the normal functioning of the chimney, it is important to take care of its insulation. How the insulation will arrange, I will tell you a little later.

Making and installing a chimney with your own hands

Before you start assembling the chimney with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the finished drawings and make your own according to your calculated dimensions. I will attach approximate drawings and diagrams for clarity.

Drawing and diagrams

Fig. 1 Fuser device:

Fig 2. Connection diagram of the stove and chimney:

Calculating the height of a brick pipe

For normal draft, it is necessary to correctly calculate the height of the pipe.

The optimum length from the grate is at least 5m. This parameter changes depending on the section of the pipe.

Another calculation option is to build on the ridge height (as indicated in SNiP). Let me remind you that if the pipe is at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge, its height should not be less than 0.5 m above it, if further, it can be flush with the ridge and higher.

If the required distance exceeds 3 m - the height of the pipeline outlet is calculated according to the following method - a conditional line is drawn from the top of the ridge along the slope of the roof with an inclination of 10 degrees downward relative to the horizontal. It is necessary to make such calculations on the drawing.

Calculation of the chimney cross-section

Let us summarize the data of the dependence of the chimney cross section on the power of the heating device in the table:

If the power of the furnace is unknown, it can be approximately calculated using the formula:

• W is the power of the heat generator, kW;
• Vt is the volume of the furnace, m3;
• 0.63 - furnace load factor;
• 0.8 - fuel combustion coefficient;
• E is the calorific value of the fuel, kW * h / m3. Depends on wood species and wood moisture;

• T is the burning time of one fuel load.

This formula is only valid for stoves and does not apply to fireplaces.

Installation video

And of course, some useful videos on the topic:

Installation features

The simplest option for installation is a top-mounted chimney. How to lay out the pipe with your own hands? Consider the way of laying a classic chimney for a sauna stove:

• We calculate the parameters of the chimney using one of the methods given above;

The standard section of the channel for a sauna stove is 250 × 120mm - this is just the size of a red brick, in addition, you will need half bricks. They can be bought or cut off;

The mortar is laid with a thickness of no more than 1 cm, a clay composition with the addition of cement is preferable;

• We prepare everything you need - bricks, mortar, tools;
• Take measurements for fluff, gate and otter;
• Masonry should be started from the stove, checking each row with a building level. Periodically clean the canal from excess solution;
• Advice - after laying the first two or three rows of bricks, fix the ropes at the corners of the future chimney and stretch them to the ceiling (strictly vertically). The position of the chimney is controlled by them;
• At the installation site of the gate valve, it is necessary to fix the frame;
• Continue laying bricks until fluffed. Before the device of the fluff, it is necessary to count the number of its rows. In one row, the channel diameter increases by ¼ of the brick width. Brick leads should be tightly attached to the floor beams, there should be no gaps between them, otherwise the chimney will stagger
• The fluff should be laid according to the scheme (see above-fig. 1). It can be changed based on its size;
• After laying the fluff, we continue laying the chimney;
• We begin to lay the otter from the underside of the roof, the increase in the chimney cross-section when laying the otter should take place taking into account the slope of the roof slope, gradually;
• Advice - to increase stability, metal plates should be embedded in the otter;
• If necessary, trim the ends of the bricks;
• Head device. To do this, increase the outer perimeter by a quarter of a brick;
• Finishing row. We mount a bird net into it. We attach a protective cap from above with dowels.

Frequent errors and problems during installation

The main mistakes made when laying the chimney yourself.

• Selection of low-quality bricks;
• Seams are too thick;
• Incorrect solution composition;
• Incorrect calculation of the chimney height;
• Non-observance of uniformity when laying the channel;
• Failure to comply with the fire safety requirements listed above.

Due to installation errors, turbulence occurs, loss of channel tightness, poor draft. All this leads to a deterioration in the operational properties of the chimney.

Maintenance and cleaning

During operation, a soot deposit forms on the pipe walls, which must be removed. Professionals recommend cleaning the chimney at least 2 times a year - at the beginning and at the end of the heating season.

There are several cleaning methods:

• Traditional methods

Periodic burning aspen firewood and potato peelings helps to blow out all the soot from the walls of the chimney;

• Chemical method

Special log-chimney sweep impregnate chemical compositions that interact with deposits in the pipe and contribute to their destruction;

• Mechanical cleaning

Most effective method. For mechanical cleaning, you can invite a professional with special equipment, or you can try to clean it yourself with a brush. Cleaning takes place not only from the roof, but also from below, through the cleaning doors.

Sometimes it can be difficult to start a fire. One of the reasons is the presence of condensation, which impairs the movement of gases.

If the chimney is not insulated, heat transfer from hot gases to environment... If there is a significant temperature difference between the inside and outside of the chimney, a "dew point" occurs. At this point, the condensate vapors are converted to liquid. This liquid destroys the chimney.

How to insulate

The easiest way to insulate brickwork from the outside is with plastering. To do this, a special mesh is put on the pipe, on which several layers of plaster are applied. Practice shows that the lifespan of a chimney protected in this way increases by 2-3 times.

In addition, materials with a low heat transfer coefficient are used for insulation - mineral wool, glass wool, basalt fiber.

In recent years, polystyrene concrete has become popular for insulation. It can be used to make a protective casing for a chimney of any shape.

Some would-be craftsmen cover the chimney with insulation, without arranging a metal casing, and from above this entire structure is covered with foil. Such a system is fundamentally wrong and will do more harm than good.

In the last decade, the construction of summer cottages and country houses fireplaces and stoves are used for heating. But such devices cannot work without a chimney. Previously, furnaces and, accordingly, chimneys were installed by experienced stove-makers, whose knowledge was passed on from generation to generation. Today, the experience of the old masters is almost completely forgotten, but thanks to the use the latest materials and development, the construction of a chimney does not pose any particular problems, especially since a high-quality sandwich pipe can be purchased in a store. Nevertheless, many continue to build brick chimneys for fireplaces, considering them the most authentic and durable. How to build a correct and high-quality chimney for your heating equipment will be discussed in this publication.

Learning the basics

Before you start laying a brick chimney, you should study SNiP 41-01-2003, which regulates the creation heating systems in private homes. You should especially carefully read section 6.6 of this set of rules, which indicates all the parameters of the chimneys.

There are three main types of flue pipes:

Consider the elements of the most common shell-on chimney. It consists of:

• A shell pipe, which is located on the ceiling of the furnace. The laying of this section of the chimney is done with the binding of each brick in a row with bricks of the next row. The laying of this section is done almost to the ceiling, 5 rows before it.
• Next comes the expansion of the masonry, without increasing the internal dimensions of the channel. This area is called "fluff". The fluff (cutting) is laid with expansion from row to row to the passage through the ceiling.
• A straight chimney - "riser" is placed on the fluff (already in the attic). This part of the chimney reaches the roof.
• To pass through the roof, an extension of the "riser" masonry is made, which is called "otter". It prevents moisture from entering attic through the roof.
• A straight section of the chimney is laid, which is called the "neck" of the chimney.
• It, again, ends with an expansion. An umbrella or deflector is mounted on the head to prevent debris, precipitation, etc. from entering the channel.

The figure below shows a standard type of chimney with an indication of all its elements.

Choosing a chimney masonry scheme

A masonry scheme is a drawing of the ordinal brickwork, following which a chimney is created with certain parameters (shape and section of the channel, laying and bandaging of each row of bricks). There are many masonry schemes, among which the chimneys were the most popular among our ancestors:

• Straight.
• Vertical single-turn single-channel.
• Vertical single-turn multichannel.
• Vertical multiturn.
• Direct-flow with slits.
• Countercurrent with slits.

When choosing a particular masonry scheme, one should be guided by the purpose of the heated room, the type and power of the heater, the type of fuel used, the required heat capacity of the chimney itself, the expediency of a certain design and the material from which it is complex.

The cross-sectional area of ​​the flue duct should be calculated: for 1 kW of heating equipment power, there must be 0.08 m 2 of the flue cross-sectional area.

The specific heat should be discussed in more detail.

As you know, the chimney serves not only for the removal of fuel combustion products, but also as an additional source of heating the room. Since the gases discharged into the pipe have high fever, why not use them for heating, for example, an attic space?

Single-turn multichannel chimneys have the highest heat capacity with comparative ease of construction. The choice of such a scheme depends on the purpose of the room. For example, the laying of a chimney from three wells, experts recommend using in baths. The five-channel circuit is best used to remove gases from a residential building.

Brick, mortar and necessary tools

For the construction of a brick smoke exhaust system, the required amount of brick and a specially prepared mortar will be required. The brick should be red, solid and burnt, with a flat surface and right angles. Cracked bricks are not allowed.

The use of high-quality bricks with smooth edges will allow you to build a chimney with the same and thin seams.

Chimney masonry solutions are simple, complex and mixed. A simple type of solution includes a binder and an aggregate. Mixed and complex solutions contain several types of binders and aggregates. As binders of the solution are usually used:

• Clay.
• Lime mixture.
• Plaster mix.
• Cement.

Clean sieved sand is most often used as aggregates. The mortar, where clay is used as the main binder, is used for laying stoves and fireplaces and chimney sections to the roof. The simplest and most "time-tested" clay mortar for laying chimneys consists of sand and clay in a ratio of 1: 1 or 2: 1. The mass fraction of sand in the solution depends on the fat content of the clay. The volume of water should be equal to a quarter of the volume of clay used.

It is quite simple to determine the “fat content” of the clay: it is necessary to form a ball from the clay, with a diameter of about 50 cm. After complete drying (about 3 days), look at the product. If there are cracks, then the clay is oily. If, when the ball falls from a meter height, it does not split, then such clay can be used to prepare a solution.

The quality of the prepared clay mixture can be determined as follows: dip a trowel soaked in water into the solution (without filler). If clay sticks to it, then the composition is "greasy" and sand should be added. If the mixture pushes the water out, then it is "skinny" and you need to add clay.

It is better to start making a solution for laying a chimney in a shallow and wide container. First, soak the required amount of clay. After a while, the clay must be shoveled, breaking lumps. Add some water again if necessary. When the clay is soaked, you should transfer its layer to the flooring and moisten with water. Cut into plates with a shovel blade and shovel again. This procedure should be repeated 3-5 times until all the lumps are completely broken and the solution turns into a plastic and homogeneous mass. If necessary, sand should be added to the solution.

Now a few lines about the instrument. To build a brick chimney, you must have tools:

• Master OK.
• Kirochka.
• Level.
• Roulette.

For cutting material it is best to use a "grinder" with a set of cutting discs.

Instructions for self-laying chimney

Consider the most simple scheme stacked chimney masonry with one straight channel.

The first thing to do is prepare the clay mortar. It should be prepared at the rate of 2.5 buckets per 100 pieces. bricks.

1. The first row of five whole bricks is laid. With this scheme, the section of the smoke channel will be 140 mm by 270 mm.

Observing the dressing, the first section of the pipe is laid out, which ends 5 rows before the ceiling.


Check your work with a level, both horizontally and vertically.

We begin the formation of the fluff. Keep track of the dimensions of the channel. During the formation of the fluff, you should insert the plates cut from the brick using the "grinder"


For each subsequent row of fluff, the thickness of the plates should be increased, observing the dimensions of the channel 140 x 270 mm.

2. For the fourth row of fluff, its outer dimensions should be 570 x 710 mm.
   
3. The last row of fluff is laid out already in the attic.
   

Next, the formation of the so-called riser begins.


This element is erected so high that the structure is one row higher than the roof.


4. For the passage through the roof, an otter is created, consisting of nine rows of bricks.
   
5. The fifth row of this element should begin to cover the gap between the chimney and the roof.
   

The sixth row should completely cover the gap between roofing material and a chimney.

Watch the size of the channel. It must not change over the entire length of the flue pipe.

6. The next two rows continue to form the pipe extension. The final part of the construction of the Otter is the ninth row, which should be the same size as the eighth.
   
7. The neck of the chimney is laid out.
8. The height of the masonry neck depends on the shape of the roof and the height of the ridge. If the pipe is between 1.5 and 3 m from the ridge, then the neck is brought out to a height of 500 mm above the ridge. If the chimney is at a distance of more than 3 m from the ridge, then the chimney neck is laid out with the ridge at the same level.
   
9. The final step in building a brick chimney is to create a head. It is made from two to three rows of bricks.
   

At the end of the construction of the chimney, install a protective umbrella on its head to prevent the ingress of debris and atmospheric precipitation.