What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

The use of a bath has long been considered not only hygienic, but also a health-improving procedure. People who visit the bath are less likely to get colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases of the nervous system. It is considered traditional wooden bath: the walls of the steam room "breathe" in it, which contributes to improved ventilation of hot air.

Peculiarities

Today, there are many different options for interior decoration of the bath - these are gas silicate blocks, and bricks, and so far only magnelite, which is gaining popularity. However, the most suitable finish continues to be considered natural materials, namely - from wood. Thanks to the wooden lining, it becomes possible to create a specific microclimate and a cozy atmosphere necessary for a bath or sauna. When planning to sheathe the bath with clapboard with your own hands, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also carefully follow the rules for such decoration inside the room.

The choice of lining and the calculation of the area

For quality work it is necessary to choose the right material and calculate its quantity.

It is necessary to sheathe the inner surface of a room such as a bathhouse only with those materials that can withstand:

• large temperature drops;
• high humidity;
• constant contact with water and various substances.

Board type and grade of material

To date, the building materials market is filled with a variety of clapboard from many manufacturers. Lamels are produced both in Russia and abroad. Euro lining is produced with different options section of the profile. Also, wooden lining can differ in the quality of the surface of the back and front side of the board, the shape of the lock and its size, the type of material and other equally important parameters.

Most often they use lining of several popular profiles.

• Euro lining, which has clear sharp edges and forms seams visible to the naked eye when sheathing.
• Softline with more rounded corners.
• Calm. The seam with such a finish is almost invisible, because it has no shelves-recesses. It can imitate a timber, have both sufficiently sharp and smoother rounded edges.

• Loundhouse, the front side of which is not smooth, but with different patterns. The pattern on the lamellas of the lamella is applied using curly milling on more expensive materials and using hot stamping on cheaper materials.
• Blockhouse (siding).
• Double-sided lining. Both the groove and the spike of such a board are exactly in the middle, so both sides are equally even - you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (the ability to "breathe"), so it is not very well suited for interior decoration in wet rooms such as baths, swimming pools or saunas.

To determine the grade of the purchased lining, you can use the European DIN standard. The difficulty lies in the fact that many manufacturers use various GOSTs and even their own specifications, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to look at the surface quality of the material itself, and not at the marking. All lining is made using the same equipment and using a single technology, therefore, the grade of material is determined during inspection after the completion of the manufacturing process.

• Premium (or extra). Almost perfect lining quality. No twigs or cracks are allowed on the lamellas. A light blue tint, small chippings, roughness and unevenness are possible only from the inside.
• Class A. Branches on such a board should not be more than 1 cm in diameter and occur no more often than once on a one meter long section. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, blind. It is advisable that the manufacturer putty them on his own. All other defects are permissible only on the inside.
• Class B. Knots in diameter can be no more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. It is also allowed to have through cracks and open pockets.
• Class C- this is the entire remaining lining, on which both blue spots and a large number of large knots are visible. They can be uneasy even on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that lining of this class cannot be used for finishing walls.

Wood

The bath is not only a steam room, but also a washing room, a dressing room or even a pool. For each of the premises, it will be more appropriate to choose a certain type of wood.

Wood is divided into two categories:

• coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
• deciduous: linden, aspen and others.

One of the most popular material options for euro lining is lime board. Linden is quite strong, does not change the structure of fibers for a long time and is resistant to various negative factors. The atmosphere of the linden bath is saturated with freshness and purity.

It is easy to work with aspen clapboard, time makes this material only stronger. If the surface of such a lining darkens, it is easy for it to return to its original appearance by sanding the surface. Both linden and aspen are used to decorate the hottest and wettest room in saunas - the steam room.

It is also allowed to use cedar for its decoration, however, due to the fact that the cedar heats up very quickly, discomfort may arise when you touch the loungers and walls made of this material. Conifers are used for sheathing mainly the washing or dressing room. Pine and spruce give off resin abundantly and, like cedar, have a high heating rate, but using this material will save you money and choose from an extensive decorative range of lining. It should be noted that coniferous wood must be first degummed in order to avoid a large number of streaks on the walls.

Mount options

There are two options for placing the elements in the sauna cladding. You can upholster the wall with eurolining by placing the boards both horizontally and vertically. For each of the options, a certain type of frame is required, which is also made of a bar connected by ordinary nails. Each of the methods has both advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages of the horizontal option are:

• a decrease in the chance of water getting into and stagnant in the seams, since the fastening is carried out with a thorn up, which allows water that has already got inside to drain down;
• the frame for this method of fastening the lining is made vertically and allows air to circulate more evenly in the room;
• even the wood itself High Quality is subject to decay processes, and the horizontal method of attaching the lamellas will make it possible to replace only the material that is located below and has been more damaged, without dismantling the entire wall;
• when laying the lining horizontally, drying of wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.

It is faster and easier to finish a vertical sauna with Euro lining than a horizontal one. This method also has its advantages:

• rapid drainage of moisture along vertical seams in the wall;
• when using the "groove-comb" system, the risk of water stagnation and destruction of material fibers from constant moisture is reduced;
• this finish better maintains the high temperature of the room.

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting the cladding itself, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the surface to be sheathed and choose exactly how the lining will be attached to the walls: horizontally or vertically. The floor and ceiling of the sauna can be insulated from the inside with cotton wool or another type of insulation. Any insulation must not only be correctly selected and installed, but also covered with a layer of insulating material with foil on top to avoid exposure to moisture. Such material must be nailed to the wall before installing the battens. It is also necessary to mount a ventilation system and a stove, and only then can the frame be nailed to the walls, on which the lining itself is attached. First of all, the crate is installed and the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, and only then they begin to work with the walls.

Lathing

After all preparatory work you can proceed to creating a wooden frame - lathing. First, you need to carefully prepare the beam itself. It can be either planed or left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber is treated with impregnations. First of all, the racks are attached - they are installed perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the timber in advance, since the vertical and horizontal layouts can be combined on the same wall. The profile can be fixed with ordinary nails if the bathhouse is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall using dowels. It should be noted that the length of the timber must be made slightly longer than the length of the insulation nailed to the wall.

Next, the racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb line, tape measure or level. If the wall is not level enough, you can add an extra piece of board or use a suspension for a plasterboard frame.

Ventilation

For the full functioning of a bath or sauna, as well as in order to comply with safety precautions, it is imperative that there is good ventilation.

The technology of its installation is as follows.

• Already during the installation of the battens, it is necessary to mark in advance those places that are intended for the ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the other is not higher than 150-300 mm above the floor level. It is better if the second hole is located near the oven.
• For the duct, it is better to use an aluminum corrugation with a cross-sectional diameter of 100 mm. It is necessary to place the holes for mounting the corrugation in easily accessible places in order to be able to quickly adjust the supply of fresh air.

• The use of foam as a heat-insulating material when installing ventilation is strongly discouraged. It is better to use non-flammable materials such as basalt (mineral) wool.

Warming

It is necessary to dwell in more detail on the insulation of the walls. The bath room, due to the constantly high humidity, needs special fastening and multilayer insulation.

First, you need to lay a waterproofing material on the wall so that moisture does not begin to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproofing material to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the wall surface with wooden slats. The wool itself must be laid between the frame (beams) of the crate with an overlap of 10 mm.

Over mineral wool it is necessary to lay a foil film, which not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the outgoing heat into the room. Such a vapor barrier can be attached with a construction stapler directly to the overlapping battens of the sheathing.

You can also use more in a simple way and insulate the walls of the sauna with the already foil-clad basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining.

Mounting

Fastening of euro lining in baths and saunas is done only by a hidden method. Firstly, the hardware used to attach the lamellas to the frame heats up so much that it can cause painful sensations when touching its head. Secondly, the metal of the fastener can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the lamella. And, finally, thirdly, these fasteners look too sloppy, especially when using very light-colored lining.

The plating of the steam room in the bath must always be carried out first on the ceiling. It starts from front door... The lining is attached either to nails or using a clipper, since a small finishing nail will not be able to support the weight of the lamella hanging from the ceiling in this position. Kleimer is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better preserves the lining board from damage during installation. The last boards are quite difficult to hammer into the groove with a nail or put on the clamps, so you can use a secret nail without a head. When hammering in such a nail, it is very easy to hit the board itself and damage it, therefore it is necessary to use a doboiner. At the joints with the walls, it is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm so that the air circulates freely, and the lamellas, slightly swelling from moisture, do not break each other.

The cladding of the walls of the steam room is carried out by analogy with the cladding of the ceiling. It is better to start from the corner, leaving a gap near the floor of 10-30 mm in order to avoid rotting of the boards at their joints with the floor. It is not worth joining individual parts of the lining close to when finishing a room such as a bath. It is better to leave a small margin so that during swelling, the entire wall cladding does not deform and does not go in a "wave" due to constant contact with water.

The gap is done as follows:

• initially, the lamella is pushed all the way into the groove of the other lamella already installed, along the seam line of the connection of the two boards, small marks are made with a sharp object;
• the board is slightly removed relative to the marks made and leveled;
• the algorithm is repeated with each next lamella;
• the joints of the lining will look more neat if you maintain equal indents both on all walls and on the ceiling lining.

The lamellas can also be used to sheathe doorways by cutting the boards to the required length. The openings themselves can subsequently be framed with platbands.

Window slope it is installed using a starter bar attached to a plastic lamella. In this case, the wooden lining is attached with one end to the wooden beam, and the rest to the plastic. Such a simple option is suitable for reinforced-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate frame on the slope and lay a wooden lining on it. This method works well for wooden windows that have a decent depth. If the slope of the wall is not wide at all, you can simply revet it with a wooden strip.

The finishing of the washroom is carried out in the same way as the finishing of the steam room, however, it is imperative that the lower ends of the boards (or the boards themselves, which are stacked near the floor with a horizontal installation method), must be fixed at a height of at least 30 mm from the floor. Also, in the washing room, you can use PVC lining or plastic panels, which are decorated with wood to create a unified design. Tiles and ceramics are also great for alternative finishes.

The installation of the dressing room is no different from the installation of the washing room, but the lining cannot be mounted near the firebox. It is better to overlay the walls near the stove with brick or stone. Sheets of metal or other non-combustible coating are often used. It is not allowed to adhere the chimney to anything other than a metal screen fixed to the ceiling. It is advisable to wrap the chimney behind the screen with mineral wool.

In a real Russian bath, there must be a steam room in which you can improve your health and physically relax. Therefore, this room must have beautiful view... During the operation of the steam room, there are always peak temperatures and high air humidity. In order to be able to use it for many years, you should carefully consider the interior decoration, which will protect the walls from aggressive influences, and the person from allergies and burns.

The choice of finishing material for the steam room

Baths with their own hands were built by our ancestors. In those days, tow, hemp, felt and other natural materials were used to insulate them. But today technology has gone far ahead, and hardware stores offer a large selection of modern heat and vapor barrier materials:

1. Basalt wool is especially popular when decorating a steam room and many other rooms. It can withstand high temperatures, does not burn or rot. At the same time, basalt wool does not emit toxic substances, which is very important for a room that is intended for the health of the body. It is indispensable as a heat-insulating material when decorating sections of the ceiling and walls, which are located next to the chimney and stove.
2. You can choose mineral wool. It is produced from rock waste. It is durable, environmentally friendly and resistant to microorganisms. Available in slabs or rolls.
3. Foil film is an effective vapor barrier material.

Which wood to choose?

Russian baths do it yourself traditionally finished with wood, which easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a unique aroma and many other positive qualities.

Hardwood lining is suitable for finishing the steam room. It has a low heat capacity, due to which the room heats up quickly, while the walls do not heat up much. Therefore, there will be no discomfort when it comes into contact with the walls from the lining in the steam room.

You can choose the lining of linden, birch, aspen or larch. Each of these trees has its own characteristics:

Incredibly rich and expensive it will turn out a steam room, finished wood from the African abachi tree... It is a dense wood with low thermal conductivity, smooth structure and rich color palette. The steam room can turn out from yellowish-straw to light brown in color with dark blotches.

Phased decoration of the steam room in the bath

TO installation works do it yourself, you need to start after all the necessary communications have been laid and an electrician has been installed.

For finishing, you need the following tools:

Floor installation

First of all, the floor is made in the whole bath. Its level in the washroom must be below the floor level in the steam room. The floor can be made of wood or concrete. But most often they stop at the first option.

For installing a wooden floor do it yourself you will need:

1. Install the support beams on the foundation.
2. Screw planed boards to them in steps of 5-10 mm, the thickness of which should be 50 mm.

There must be at least 50 cm between the ground and the floor. Holes must be provided in the foundation for fresh air.

Installation of battens and insulation

The surface of the walls and ceiling is pretreated with antifungal antiseptics. It is also necessary to close even the smallest gaps. Differences in the walls, which are revealed by the building level, are leveled with wooden spacers. Otherwise, the mounting rails may be at different heights.

Do-it-yourself installation of lathing and insulation consists of the following stages:

1. Insulation from moisture must be protected on both sides. Therefore, a membrane is attached to the leveled surfaces using a stapler.
2. To install the lathing, beams 50x25 mm and 60x27 mm are used. They must be well dried and free from defects, cracks and knots. Optimal distance between the bars - 0.6 m.
3. Before installing the bars, guides are mounted on the level. Then the extreme bars are installed. Their position must be checked with a level and a plumb line.
4. There should be a gap between the pillar and the floor plane, which will protect the tree from deformation during its "movement". Therefore, the bars are fixed with special corners.
5. Grooves are cut in the upright bars. Bars of a smaller section will be installed in them. This method of fastening will help to avoid deformation.
6. All lathing fitted to the level is fixed. If necessary, gaskets can be used.
7. Insulation is placed in the finished frame with your own hands. It is advisable to secure the cotton wool with a polypropylene twine, otherwise it may deform or slip over time.
8. The second layer of vapor barrier is attached to the insulation with the rough side using a stapler.

If the walls in the steam room curved or semicircular, then to maintain a given shape, the timber should be used in parts.

Wood treatment with antiseptic

Before using the lining for finishing the bath, it should be adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. The wood should lie indoors for several days. After that, it is recommended to treat it with special antiseptics, a wide variety of which are offered by hardware stores.

To process the lining with antiseptics with your own hands you will need:

In order for the composition to lay tenaciously on the tree, the wood is preliminarily sanded with sandpaper... It is necessary to impregnate the lining and timber from all sides. If linseed oil is used for processing, then it is preheated for steam bath... The oil temperature should be 40–45 degrees.

The antiseptic is applied in two or three layers, each of which must dry for at least 12 hours. It will take at least two days to completely dry all layers at a temperature of 20 degrees.

Installation of lining

You can arrange the lining as you like. It all depends on the individual design idea. It is best to place the boards horizontally in the bath. For vertical finishing the lining will heat up unevenly because the temperature at the bottom of the room is the lowest, and faith is the highest. As a result, over time, the boards will "lead".

Sheathing starts from the ceiling, on which the pre-cut lining is installed according to the "groove-tenon" system. It is attached to the crate with clamps (special metal holders). Then staples or nails are hammered into them. The metal elements will be invisible, since the cleamer will be overlapped by the spike of the next board.

When finishing the ceiling, remember to cut a rectangular opening for the chimney. In the attic, a layer of insulation must be laid, on top of which a wind and steam protection membrane and floorboards are attached.

DIY wall decoration goes in parallel with the installation of shelves and consists of the following stages:

When installing the lining, do not forget about holes for switches, routing the electrical cable, ventilation doors and lighting fixtures, which are installed at the final stage of finishing the bath.

After completing all finishing works the selected stove is installed in the steam room on the prepared base. From above it is equipped with a pipe and a gate, and from the side a water tank is attached to it. The chimney is led out through the ceiling and insulated with non-combustible material.

In the presence of quality materials, necessary tools and instructions on the process of finishing the steam room work is quite easy do it yourself... Already a day after the end of all work, the bathhouse can be flooded and enjoy the steam in the self-finished steam room.

Decorating with your own hands a steam room in a bath: selection and preparation of material, stage-by-stage finishing of a steam room with a photo

Decorating the ceiling, walls, floor of the steam room in the bath with your own hands

The best option is the do-it-yourself steam room in the bath. Simply put, it is the owner of the building who is obliged to plan the entire paired area for convenience and safety. He needs to think over many subtleties in advance for a pleasant and healthy stay.

Decorating a steam room in a bath with your own hands, at first glance, is not difficult. But in fact, this is a complex process that must be performed not only correctly and beautifully, but also with high quality. You will learn how to do this in this article. I will talk about the materials that are more suitable for such a case, as well as their pros and cons.

Steam room finishing sequence

Let's start with the main thing, with the size of the steam room in the bath, and how to choose it correctly. A few tips on how not to miscalculate with the parameters of the steam room when building it.

A stove lined with brick, or completely made of brick, heats up longer, but it also keeps heat much longer than from iron. Burns from such a stove can be not as serious as, for example, from a red-hot iron. The next step in finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands will be no less important.

The choice of material for finishing

It is best to finish with wood, because it smells very good, but there are some species that are not suitable.

You can finish with lining made of hardwood. The lining made of these types of wood is great for cladding a steam room in a bath, it can withstand high temperatures, and due to the low heat capacity of the lining, the room warms up faster, and the walls will not get very hot.

Advantages and disadvantages of each of the materials

Linden , the owner of a snow-white color, does not deform when the temperature changes, and is moisture resistant. Such a clapboard can be sheathed near the stove, as well as the ceiling, since it heats up longer than other rocks. When heated, it emits a subtle, non-intrusive aroma. And so that it does not darken in the future, it is treated with a special substance.

Minuses in the fact that it is subject to rotting and possibly insects will start in it. So when choosing it, keep in mind that you will have to change such material often.

Larch , perfectly tolerates both temperature changes and humidity. This type of wood is considered to be durable. Well suited for covering a steam room.

Minus the fact that it is difficult to cut along it, since the structure is very dense. Therefore, it is necessary to work with it carefully and only with high-quality instruments.

Birch , due to its loose structure, dries strongly. This is noticeable when preparing it, so that it is worth preparing with a margin. But this drying contributes to the excellent absorption of the special protective substance during processing.

Minus in the fact that it begins to decompose with moisture and even a protective agent will not save it. Plus she has a lot of knots.

Aspen , a very strong breed, has high strength, is resistant to moisture and does not have cracks, these qualities are an indicator of the wood on the good side. Aspen is the most suitable for steam room cladding.

Minuses the fact that it still undergoes rotting, of course much less than linden. And when choosing such a lining, you should pay attention to resin stones and knots, because in a hot steam room, if the resin comes into contact with the skin, you can burn yourself.

Cedar , when heated, it emits a pleasant and healthy aroma essential oils... It is easy to handle and cut. Cedar is durable and is not afraid of moisture.

Minus the fact that such a lining is not affordable for everyone.

Steam room thermal insulation

Everyone knows that before sheathing the steam room, the room must be insulated and a vapor barrier installed.

The choice of material for finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands is great. To date, there are several types specifically for the steam room. Such materials that tolerate temperature changes well, and do not emit harmful substances when heated, do not rot and do not contribute to the appearance of fungus. They are also resistant to fire and will last for many years.

Basalt and mineral wool are the most popular cladding materials. And foil film is great for vapor barrier. Foiled material is used to sheathe walls and ceilings and use them to waterproof them. It looks like a roll of basalt wool only with a layer of foil.

Ceiling insulation

We fix the foil material to the ceiling with a stapler, with the reflective side inside the room. We overlap the joints and glue them with aluminum tape.

Fastening the lathing for the future ceiling (for cladding to hide the foil layer), fasten it with screws, across the beams.

Also, do not forget in the attic, before filling the ceiling with insulation (earth, expanded clay), put a film on it so that dust does not get inside the room, or cover up all the cracks between the boards.

Thermal insulation of walls

The wall cladding technology in the steam room is the same as for the ceiling. Just before insulating the walls in the bath, it is necessary to smooth out all the cracks and joints. The insulation is attached parallel to the floor, from top to bottom. Laying is done in three layers: hydro, heat, and vapor barrier.

The first layer of waterproofing is needed so that condensation does not settle on the walls. The second layer for insulation, it is laid in a crate of a bar. The third layer is needed to protect the insulation from moisture.

Floor insulation

A floor made of concrete is certainly more durable than wood, but such floors are cold, so people still prefer wood.

For wood floor, the foundation is poured, the beams fall, logs on them. The voids formed between the logs and beams are filled with insulation material, most often it is expanded clay or sand. Next, a vapor barrier is laid, and the "first floor", and on it insulation material and waterproofing, and only then we make the finishing floor.

For concrete floors, the base is made of concrete and crushed stone, 12-15cm thick. Waterproofing can be applied after the concrete mixture is completely dry. It can be roofing material or bituminous mastics. The concrete is coated several times with bituminous mastic, and only then we lay down the waterproofing. Insulation can be mineral wool, perlite or expanded clay with a layer of 10-15 cm. The next layer of the floor is already done on the heat-insulating surface.

Wood treatment with antiseptics

To wood paneling served for a long time, and was not covered with fungus. It must be treated with an antiseptic, since the tree absorbs moisture well, and the loose environment is favorable for microbes, then soon they will populate the entire wooden territory and destroy it, and later pests will populate it and completely destroy it. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to carry out a hygienic procedure for the tree before using it.

The impregnation should have protective properties, but not interfere with the "breathing" of the tree. Processing by impregnation of wood, indoors, must be environmentally friendly, and not emit hazardous substances when heated. Floor impregnation should not form a slippery film on the surface after drying. Treat shelves, benches and countertops only with an impregnation that can withstand frequent wet cleaning. The shelves are treated with a special agent with deep absorption, it should not form a film on the surface. Impregnations for wood are both aerosol and in the form of gels and solutions.

All antiseptic impregnations must be applied in a protective respirator to avoid poisoning.

Wood is also protected from fire, with a substance such as a fire retardant. Of course, this substance will resist combustion only for a while, since it is impossible to completely ensure the wood is incombustible.

Before applying the product, we clean the surface of contamination, if necessary, then we grind the canvas. The composition is applied with a roller or brush, of course, if it is not an aerosol. We pay special attention to painting the ends. You can use the room only after the protective coating has completely dried.

The process of finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands

Do-it-yourself steam room decoration is easiest to show in the photo, but I will try to explain it intelligibly, but of course I will also provide the necessary photos.

The best material for decoration is lining, it looks good in the interior. In addition, if you wish, you can make it yourself, and there is a huge selection of it on the shelves of the store. This material allows the wall to breathe and is easy to install. It can be fastened with clamps or nails without caps.

We will decorate the steam room in the bath with our own hands step by step, the first thing we will analyze is the ceiling, then the walls and the floor.

Ceiling decoration

The decoration of the room is done all under one style, if the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, then it is better to finish the walls as well. If you want natural wood, then you should take care of its quality, it must be processed with special means. These funds will provide her with many years of service, will keep her appearance much longer. They are also carried out so that the wood does not burn for some time.

The choice of lining is very large, so you will find for yourself the kind of wood from which the lining will be made. You will also select for yourself the money.

The ceilings are also trimmed with cork, this is an environmentally friendly material. It does not emit hazardous substances when heated, just like the lining. It is very easy to install and not difficult to work with. But its disadvantage is the high price.

Wall decoration

Also, they prefer to sheathe the walls with clapboard made of wood. In this case, it is better to fasten it with a gap in order to avoid deformation of the tree from swelling. This gap will save you from redoing the entire trim, it will allow it to move if necessary.

Think over the design in advance, you will always have time to buy, take a closer look at different types finishes, and choose the one that suits you best.

Floor finishing

The floor can be made of wood or tiled. The tile is not afraid of moisture, but it is not very pleasant to step on it after the steam room, moreover, you can slip, therefore, most often a wooden flooring is laid on it in the form of a crate or a coating that is easy to care for, for example, cork.

If you want to lay tiles, then first apply a screed and level the surface. It is laid on special glue, and the seams are treated with moisture-resistant grout.

Wood floors are both leaky and non-penetrating. Leaking floors are when boards are laid on logs with a gap of 5-30mm, and non-leaking ones are laid close to each other and grooved boards are chosen for them.

I provide a photo of decorating a steam room in a bath with my own hands.

Types of shelves and their installation

Sauna shelves are divided into several types:

1. Coupe- recumbent places are located one above the other;
2. Complex shelves- this is when pull-out structures of the lower shelf, or hinged upper shelves are used;
3. In the form of the letter "G"- this is when there are places for seating, benches are placed along two adjacent walls, thereby forming the letter "G".
4. Stepped shelves- in fairly large steam rooms, there are two, or even three rows of steps, which can accommodate several people.

Examples of steam room schemes

Finishing touches

The last thing to do is install wooden skirting boards and moldings. Check if you did everything right.

Step-by-step finishing of the steam room in the bath with your own hands, BuildDom

DIY steam room - step by step instructions

Without a steam room, the bath becomes ordinary premises where people wash. It is steam that has healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives strength and vigor of spirit. At first glance, the arrangement of the steam room is not particularly difficult. This small space has a minimum of architectural delights. However, when arranging it, a number of important rules must be observed. Only then can the steam room bring real pleasure to lovers of a real Russian bath.

DIY steam room - step-by-step instruction

Project selection

It is necessary to design a steam room before starting the construction of a bath. Its dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

The maximum number of people who will take a steam bath at the same time... The overall dimensions of the room depend on the answer to this question. According to the norms, for each person in the steam room, there must be at least 0.7 m2.

The height of the tallest member of the family. This indicator is a guideline for calculating the height of the room. It should be about 20 cm larger than his height. Calculations should take into account the fact that the ceiling will be additionally insulated and, therefore, its level will be lower by a few centimeters. Even a tall person sitting on the top shelf should not touch the ceiling with his head. But too high a height of the steam room is not welcomed. This can lead to unnecessary energy consumption and insufficient heating. All hot air will go up, without exerting the proper effect on steaming people. The optimal ceiling height is from 2.2 to 2.4 m.

Type of placement on the shelves: sitting or lying. The seated arrangement in the steam room allows you to make it compact. Shelves that assume the adoption of procedures in a recumbent position require more space. In this case, the room should be 20 cm wider than the height of the tallest family member.

The first sketch below shows a small sauna with a steam room, in which only sitting is placed on the shelves.

The other two figures show schematically more spacious rooms in which you can bathe while lying down.

Accommodation options in the steam room.

1), 10), 11) Clothes hanger, wardrobe.

2) Rest room.

Having schematically depicted the location of the stove and shelves in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying mistakes during construction.

Type, power and dimensions of the stove. According to fire regulations (SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)), the stove should be placed in the bath at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected non-combustible materials, then you need to retreat from them 26 cm.

The iron stove has high power, compact size and the ability to quickly warm up even a large steam room. However, its surface is very hot, there is a risk of accidental burns in case of careless actions. In view of this. in the steam room, there should be a free distance between the shelves and the iron stove.

A brick heater does not heat up so quickly and its size is much larger than that of a metal one. However, it keeps warm longer and it is impossible to get seriously burned on it. Therefore, there is no need to position the oven at a substantial distance from the shelves.

In the case of installing an electric heater, it makes sense to make the steam room as small as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

Electric heater in the steam room

So, when planning a steam room, you should think carefully about everything even at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof have been erected, you can proceed directly to work on internal arrangement steam rooms.

Floor installation

The floor in the entire bath is done first. The floor level in the steam room should be higher than the level of the clean floor in the washroom.

Floor laying scheme in the bath

There are several options for its device.

Wooden floor

The easiest is to install a wooden floor. For this, support logs are installed on the foundation.

Planed boards with a thickness of 50 mm are screwed onto them at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

A version of the leaking floor in the bath. Boards are laid with a small gap

It is important that at least 50 cm remains between the floor and the ground level, and there are openings in the foundation for fresh air.

This will provide good, natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will dry evenly after the end of the bath procedures. However, this flooring option should only be used in areas with warm and temperate climates. In northern areas, this ventilation can lead to the fact that the heat from the steam room is eroded too quickly.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor in a steam room can last much longer than a wooden one. However, the cost of arranging it will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally lay a finishing coating on it.

Before starting installation work cement screed in the steam room and the washing room, a pit should be dug 10 to 15 cm deep to drain the water. The walls can be fixed with cement or tiles. An iron grate is laid on top of it. From the pit, water will go through the drain pipe into the sewer.

Scheme of a concrete floor with a pit

As soon as the water drain is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the screed.

Concrete Floor Layer Layout

The level of the clean floor in the steam room should be higher than in the washing room. Therefore, before starting work on the walls, a mark is made to which the floor structure will reach. And then they lay down the distance from it, which is necessary for laying all the layers of the screed.

Indoor floor construction

For marking it is convenient to use laser level

The order of work on the arrangement of the concrete floor

Rubble pillow. In this case, a reinforcing mesh has been added.

First layer of concrete. You can add a little water glass to the solution to improve the properties of the screed.

All waterproofing seams are reliably coated for sealing

Filling the screed on the lighthouses

Rule. The arrows show the direction of movement (left-right and forward)

Vapor barrier and ceiling decoration

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the steam room is of paramount importance, since the hot air from the stove rises upwards. Therefore, the presence of places on the ceiling through which it could freely go outside is unacceptable.

Ceiling insulation works are carried out in the following sequence.

Chimney opening

Hole for installing ceiling split

Laying insulation in the attic

Laying the floorboard from the attic side

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bath are built of foam blocks or frame technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation... Inside, you should get a thermos impervious to cold, which will perfectly keep the heat emanating from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and long-term maintenance of the desired temperature in the steam room.

Before starting work, an opening is cut in the wall for installing the furnace.

Then, a wind and steam protection film is attached to the walls.

At the next stage, a basalt non-combustible insulation is tightly laid between the bars.

Lathing and laid insulation

After that, waterproofing is nailed to the bars with galvanized staples.

Foil insulation and counter battens for lining

The following can be used as a protective material:

foil with a density of 150 to 200 microns;

foamed foamed penoizol;

waterproofing membrane for a bath.

Strips of moisture-resistant material are nailed with staples with an overlap of at least 15 cm, the joints are sealed with special tape.

Then, slats 25 mm thick and 30 to 50 mm wide are horizontally attached to the bars with galvanized self-tapping screws at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The lathing should be installed as evenly as possible; for this, a laser level or plumb line should be used. The installation is started from the two extreme slats, then a lace is pulled between them. And already focusing on it, they nail the rest of the crate.

At the next stage, the clapboard is directly attached. To do this, use either ordinary galvanized nails 40-50 mm long, or special clamps.

Finally, smooth ventilation holes are cut in the walls. From above, they are masked with plugs or flaps. If necessary, a fan is mounted in the supply or exhaust opening.

If the walls in the steam room are made of logs or profiled beams, then they do not require such careful insulation. In this case, it will be enough to fix the foil or foil-clad foam insulation on them. Then nail the crate and install the lining.

Scheme of warming and finishing a bath from a bar

Furnace installation

The stove in the steam room can be installed iron, brick or electric. The place for it should be chosen at the design stage of the bath. The furnace of the stove can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.

Installation procedure in a steam iron furnace:

install the oven on a previously prepared base;

they lay bricks along the walls and inside the partition;

Installed ceiling bead

a pipe and a gate are installed on the stove, a tank is connected and a double-walled chimney is brought out through the ceiling, insulating it with non-combustible material;

Ceiling bead is fully insulated

fixed on the roof a metal sheet with a hole through which the pipe passes.

Chimney passage through the roof

Installing the sauna heater

The electric oven is installed on a prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require the installation of a chimney.

It is imperative to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.

Brick oven

The brick oven is laid out at the stage of the construction of the bath.

Only that part of it should go into the steam room, in which there will be stones. The firebox is best placed in a dressing room or on the street.

Door assembly

The door to the steam room is installed last. It should close tightly and not let heat out. Doors made of solid wood or tempered glass are best suited for this purpose.

Installation wooden door consists of the following stages:

collect from a bar 100 * 150 (depending on the diameter of the log) a rectangular casing box ("okosyachka");

a doorway is fitted under the casing;

a spike is cut out at the ends of the bar in the opening, which should be slightly smaller in size than the groove on the casing box (it should be borne in mind that jute or tow must be laid between the box and the bar);

Thorn cutting scheme

first a threshold is placed in the opening, and then the lateral parts of the casing;

Installation of a door frame in a log house

the upper part of the box is installed so that it is located 3-5 cm below the doorway (this will allow the timber to move freely during shrinkage);

Shrinkage compensation gap

you cannot screw the casing to the timber, it must move freely along the grooves, the cracks between it and the wall are carefully caulked;

hang the door, nail the trims with finishing nails.

Another way to install a wooden door is to cut grooves in the opening.

Wooden blocks are installed in them so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And the door frame is already directly attached to them.

Fixing the window to the rail and hanging the door

Glass doors are attached to special hinges.

How to make shelves correctly

The number of shelves in the steam room depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the height of the owners of the bath. In the standard version, three-level shelves are allowed, each of which is 35 cm high. However, two shelves are also possible. In a small steam room, the lower level of the bench may be equipment retractable mechanism and move out as needed.

First, you need to choose the shape of the shelves and assemble the frame. It is best made from larch. There are a lot of options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

Wooden boards are laid on top of the installed frame.

The boards in them should be located loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Shields should be made of linden or aspen. Conifers are not suitable for this purpose, since resin is released from them under the influence of high temperatures.

Effective ventilation

An important stage in the arrangement of the steam room is ventilation. In its absence, a long stay in the steam room becomes unsafe for human health. And improper installation of air ducts can lead to heat loss and unnecessary fuel costs for full heating of the room.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room. This will lead to large losses of heat, and hence a decrease in the effectiveness of the adoption of bath procedures.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room.

The most common and are several options for the location of ventilation ducts in the steam room.

During the immediate acceptance of the bath procedures, the ventilation holes in the walls can be closed with valves. And then open them as needed.

Ventilation grill with latch

As ventilation ducts, you should use galvanized or stainless pipes... It is not recommended to use plastic structures in the steam room. The pipes must be fastened to special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust duct should be slightly larger than that of the supply duct.

Having decided on the ventilation scheme, holes of the required dimensions should be made in the walls or floor.

Their diameter depends on the area of ​​the ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventilation ducts into them.

The ventilation duct is inserted into the hole

The distance remaining between the wall and the pipe must be laid with a non-combustible insulation. Fasten the protective grill from the street side.

The arrow shows the protective grille

Electricity

At the final stage of arranging the steam room, electrical wiring is installed. All switches and junction boxes should be located outside the steam room and shower room.

Junction box in the bath

The wires are laid in the corrugation over the lining.

Corrugated wiring

In the steam room, they are covered with wooden skirting boards from above.

The wiring is hidden behind the skirting board

The luminaires in the steam room must be protected with wooden bars.

Do-it-yourself steam room - step-by-step instructions for arranging and finishing!

Decorating the steam room in 3 stages: equipping a branch of hell in our bathhouse!

Only natural wood can cope with the heat from the stove!

Decorating a steam room in a bath with your own hands is an extremely responsible event. And although the masters do not have a single recipe, and it cannot be, everyone agrees on one thing: it is very important to minimize heat loss, since this is the only way we will ensure an even and stable heat, to maintain which you will not have to constantly burn cubic meters of firewood or kilowatts of electricity.

In practice, it is not easy to achieve such a result, but if you follow the advice I have given (I managed to check most of them in practice), then everything will work out!

Step 1. Thermal insulation

Preparing the walls

I will begin the story of how to properly decorate a steam room in a bath with a description of the thermal insulation process. High-quality insulation and protection of heat-insulating material from moisture - these are our priorities!

At the first stage, we need to prepare the walls and ceiling. The preparation algorithm depends on the material from which the walls are made:

Before sheathing, we must caulk the timber

1. We caulk the wooden blockhouse without fail... To do this, fill all the gaps between the beams / logs with moss, tow, jute fiber, etc. We carefully seal the caulking material to avoid blowing and heat loss.
2. We treat the wooden surfaces themselves with an antiseptic... Its role is obvious: no matter how well we waterproof the room, high humidity will provoke the development of bacteria and fungi. So it's best to take action in advance.

Gas and foam concrete must be primed

1. We treat walls made of concrete or brick with a primer with waterproofing and antiseptic components... This will protect the substrate from moisture and will also help prevent the development of fungal infections.
2. In a bath made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and other porous materials, it is also worth priming the walls. A primer based on polymeric materials penetrates into the pores of the material and reduces its moisture content, which is highly desirable in this situation.

Only after completion preprocessing walls, you can proceed to the installation of the thermal insulation circuit.

Frame and insulation

Insulation of walls and ceilings in a bath is a process that each master does according to his own scheme. The sequence of finishing can be different, and the materials used are different, so here I will give a universal option:

1. On the walls and ceiling I stuff the sheathing beams. The distance from the wall to the edge of the timber should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation material used, therefore sometimes it is necessary to put cranial bars under the crate.

Lathing for thermal insulation material

1. When installing the lathing, I provide for the laying of communications: with a drill I make holes in the bars through which I pass a heat-resistant metal hose with wires for lighting the steam room.
2. Be sure to equip the ventilation hole: I stuff the frame from a bar around the perimeter of the air vent, and leave the passage itself free.

Outside, it is worth installing a ventilation grill to protect against insects and rodents, which usually burst into a warm room in "slender rows".

1. After completing this stage, I put plates of heat-insulating material in the lathing cells. It is best to use mineral wool with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm, since polymer materials(polystyrene, polystyrene) when heated to 1200C either melt or actively emit volatile toxins.

Thermal insulation with mineral fiber boards

1. On top of the heat-insulating layer, I put a vapor barrier that protects the mineral wool from moisture. If previously glassine was mainly used for this, today it is best to use polymer films with foil: the foil coating not only prevents the insulation from wetting, but also acts as a thermal mirror, reflecting infrared rays back into the steam room.

Vapor barrier materials must be laid with an overlap, fastening the edges with heat-resistant tape.

Foil vapor barrier should cover the entire insulation

1. The next step is the installation of the counter-lattice. To do this, on top of the vapor barrier, I stuff slats with a thickness of 20 - 40 mm: they will form a gap for air circulation under the lining of the lining. The presence of such a gap contributes to effective ventilation of the insulated wall and the normalization of humidity in the room.

In a brick bath or in a bath made of foam / aerated concrete, you can also use foam glass insulation. The high density of the material allows it to be mounted without a frame, directly on load-bearing walls:

Fastening scheme of foam glass panels

1. We glue blocks of foam glass on all surfaces using a heat-resistant compound.
2. For reliability, we fix each block with a "mushroom" dowel.
3. On top of the blocks we stuff a counter-lattice for mounting the lining.

Floors and ceilings

The floors and ceilings in the steam room are also worth paying attention to. So, I recommend finishing the floors with either solid board, or tiles on a wooden base. Naturally, one cannot do without insulation here:

1. I pour a layer of sand and gravel mixture into the underground space on the ground. The thickness of the backfill should be at least 10 - 15 cm after tamping.
2. On a tamped floor we pour expanded clay - so that the upper edge of the expanded clay layer coincides with the lower edge of the log.

Expanded clay under subfloor

To prevent fired clay granules from scattering, you can fill the backfill with liquid cement mortar- you get an improvised expanded clay concrete.

1. On top of expanded clay we lay out mineral wool slabs with a thickness of 75 mm. We lay minvata in such a way that it fits snugly into the space between the lags.
2. An alternative to mineral wool is ecowool - a fibrous cellulosic material. It is blown into the underground space under pressure, therefore, the warming procedure should be carried out after laying the subfloor.
3. On top of the insulation, a layer of vapor barrier is mandatory. If this is not done, then high humidity will lead to a significant increase in the thermal conductivity of the material.

Vapor barrier insulation with a special membrane

1. Finally, we lay the subfloor on top. It can be made either from a board or from moisture-resistant plywood of sufficient thickness.

Now a few words about how to decorate the ceiling. From the inside, everything is more or less clear: we do the same as for the walls, except that the thickness of the thermal insulation panels can be slightly reduced. The trick is that we will also do thermal insulation from the attic side:

Ceiling over the steam room, filled with clay mortar

1. I cover the ceiling of the bath with two or three layers of fiberglass.
2. Pour 30 cm of clay solution on top, into which I add chopped straw or sawdust (1: 1 by volume).
3. When the clay is dry, I lay down thin sheets of polystyrene and fill in the cement screed.

The resulting multilayer structure retains heat well. At the same time, you can move along the screed, so that the attic of the bath can be used to store various things.

Step 2. Sheathing

Choosing wood

We will sheathe the ceiling and walls, and sometimes even lay the floors, using exclusively natural wood. And here the choice of wood species comes to the fore.

Larch sheathing

On the other hand, linden requires a careful attitude: if you do not take care of the upholstery and shelves, then literally in a year they will darken and will not delight the eye with a pleasant light shade.

Photos of linden panels

It is possible to decide what exactly to use for covering the steam room only after a thorough analysis of the situation: this is influenced by the volume of the room, and the planned temperature in it, and financial possibilities. So I usually give exactly one recommendation: for a steam room, choose the highest quality wood you can afford!

We mount the lining

One of the advantages of lining as a material for cladding baths and saunas is its fairly simple installation. Availability lock system"Thorn-groove" gives us the ability to quickly assemble parts with minimal gaps - so that when doing work with our own hands, we will only have to make sure that the parts are mounted exactly.

Before starting work on finishing the steam room, you should think about: how will we install the lining - vertically or horizontally? Both options have pros and cons:

Vertical panel mounting has disadvantages

1. With vertical installation, each board is subjected to rather intense temperature deformations: the lower part is in the cold zone (conditionally), the upper part is in the hot zone. At the same time, the wood from below will also remain wet for a long time, hence the high risk of fungus formation. On the other hand, with vertical installation, there is less risk of gaps between the panels, since each board deforms evenly.
2. Horizontal installation reduces the risk of deformation - each lining is in its own "temperature zone". The lower rows fall into an area with an increased risk of fungal colonies - but they are relatively easy to replace during repairs. The disadvantages of this installation, I will attribute the high probability of the formation of cracks in the skin - top panels will shrink more due to more heat, and the seams are almost guaranteed to diverge.

Horizontal mounting seems more appropriate to me

Despite the above features, I am inclined to believe that it is better to place the cladding horizontally both in the steam room from the log house and in the brick bath. In this case, it is worthwhile to think in advance about the possibility of the formation of cracks, and partially compensate for this risk, paying special attention to the sealing of the locks.

The installation of the lining itself can be carried out in two ways. With vertical installation, the easiest way is to mount the boards on special clips - clamps:

1. The first panel is installed on the surface, after which clamps are put on the groove - one for each frame rail.
2. We align the board, and then nail the clamps to the frame with nails or fix it with galvanized steel brackets using a stapler.
3. Insert the next panel with a spike into the groove, align for the most tight fit (do not hammer - the board must remain mobile) and also fix it with clamps.

Clamp fixing scheme

1. With vertical installation, this scheme can also be used, but it is not so convenient - the sheathing has to be led from top to bottom, so that the grooves of the boards are oriented towards the floor. If you do otherwise, then moisture will inevitably accumulate in the grooves of the grooves.

You can do without clips:

Installation on a nail

1. Place the panel on the base and align.
2. We put a special nail with a small head in the groove at an angle and hammer in with several precise hammer blows.

In order not to break the edges of the groove, missed on impact, I use an "extension": I press a small hammer to the head of the nail and hit it with medium ones.

1. We deepen the protruding hats with the help of a thin doboinik.
2. We carry out further assembly in the same way as in the previous case - but instead of clamps, we simply hammer in nails diagonally.

We attach the boards to the ceiling in the same way as on the walls

After finishing the sheathing, we saturate all wooden surfaces with a special compound. Varnishes and stains will not work here: the instruction strongly recommends the use of products specifically designed for processing wood in baths and saunas.

Step 3. Equipping the steam room

Wall and ceiling cladding is a very important and time-consuming process, but, alas, it is not final. After the walls are finished with wooden clapboard, we perform the following operations:

Solid wood floor

1. We lay the floor on a rough base made of boards or plywood. For the floor, we take either a massive board or tile floor tiles.
2. We cover the joint between the walls and the floor with plinths.
3. We arrange a place for the heater by mounting a metal screen on the floor and adjacent wall.

Screen installation diagram

1. We collect a two- or three-level canopy (aka shelves, aka bunks - they call it differently!) From wooden beams on the frame. When assembling, we make sure that all metal fasteners are fixed exclusively from the inside: in a heated bath, any contact with the head of a nail or self-tapping screw is almost a guaranteed burn.

Shelf drawing with dimensions

When fastening with self-tapping screws from the outside, their caps must be sunk into secret holes with a depth of at least 5 mm, and the holes themselves must be closed with wooden pins.

1. We install the stove and mount a wooden grate around it.
2. We connect a special lamp for the steam room to the wires taken out from under the sheathing.
3. We install a door in the opening, which we adjust so that it closes as tightly as possible. By the way, for any size of the steam room, the door should only open outward - for safety reasons.

The door only opens outwards!

1. Insert a special wooden plug with a handle and seals around the perimeter into the ventilation hole.
2. Well, and most importantly - we hang up a thermometer that will show how cool we have heated our steam room!

Conclusion

The interior decoration of the steam room must be flawless, because the high temperature and humidity in this room does not forgive mistakes. What will "come off" in an ordinary room will surely "come to the surface" in the bathhouse, therefore - we do not skip!

Decorating a steam room in a bath with your own hands: 3 stages of cladding

Wood is a material that has long been used for cladding baths and saunas. It is there that the tree best reveals its properties - the ability to create a microclimate and perfectly retain heat.

Truth be told, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in hot and humid environments. Accordingly, it is better to sheathe the bath from the inside with wooden clapboard. Below is the technology of the step-by-step sheathing of the bath with clapboard inside.

Decorating a bath or sauna with clapboard has its own characteristics that must be taken into account even at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing a lining for facing a bath, you need to consider:

• high fever;
• fluctuations in temperature (drops);
• humidity level;
• budget.

What kind of lining to choose for a bath

Selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of the lumber:

1. Board type

For finishing a steam room with wooden lining, it is better to give preference to eurolining.

• Firstly, because it has a large groove-ridge system (ridge length reaches 8 mm).

• Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamellae, which promotes ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamellas.

• Thirdly, because the eurolining has already been pre-treated with wood preservatives that can be used in a sauna.

2. Variety of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) type of wood is suitable in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even live knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Wood species

To understand which lining for a bath is better, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all breeds on the market, but focus on those that professionals recommend to use.

The clapboard decoration of the bath can be made of deciduous and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bath or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna, and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Lining linden for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are the ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, the undoubted argument in favor of linden lining will be the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, as well as the beautiful color and structure of the wood. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, the aspen lining only becomes stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for the clapboard in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it starts to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws out negative energy from a person.

Alder lining for a bath

The third place was taken by the alder lining. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. Wood of this species is hygroscopic, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. However, the high cost prevents its widespread distribution.

Note. Lining of linden, aspen, alder is usually sold in short pieces. The commercial length is up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the decoration of the bath and making the calculation of the material.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult material for processing is considered to be oak lining for a bath. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in the sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

A similar situation with ash lining - very expensive and rare lumber for bathing.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs protection.

Conifers are rarely used in a steam room. Because the resin emitted by the lining of coniferous species (pine, spruce) makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by indicators such as moisture resistance and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not need additional processing (except for resin removal). Often, a pleasant pine aroma also becomes an argument in favor of pine lining.

Do-it-yourself lining of the bath with clapboard inside

Methods for fixing the lining

The first step is to choose the method of fixing the lining. There is no unequivocal answer on how to properly fix the lining in the bath, horizontally or vertically (along or across). Each master defends his point of view. But summarizing their statements and user reviews, one can draw conclusions regarding the methods of laying the lining.

The laying of the lining along has become more widespread due to the relative simplicity, convenience and high speed of work, and due to this, the lower cost of installation. Moisture (condensation) easily flows down the vertical lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily climbs up the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

The vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to accumulate inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the lathing bar interferes with the free movement of air. Experts point out that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam regime.

Laying the lining across has the advantages in that the board is fastened with the spike upwards, which means that water is also unlikely to get in, as with the vertical one. At horizontal mount the lining is equipped with a vertical frame (lathing), which promotes natural air circulation between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of laying the lining horizontally in the bath (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards at the bottom. The fact is that the floor in the bath is not just a damp place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to more rapid decay than the upper ones. Replacing a few lower planks is easier than cutting off the bottom of all vertical planks. In addition, drying out from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on vertical mounts. The horizontal method of fixing the lining is better for those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the foregoing, everyone can decide for themselves how to fix the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard provides for a lathing device. This is due to the fact that the presence of the crate makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensation flows down, the likelihood of decay of the lining, the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The lathing for the lining for the bath is made only from a bar, which is covered with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

The lathing in the bath makes it possible to organize the electrical wiring in the steam room. For example, under the lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are placed in a metal corrugation.

Internal insulation of a bath consists of several layers. Insulation in such a humid room needs special fixing.

To begin with, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or fixed with battens.

Cotton wool is placed between the sheathing beams. By the way, cut with a 10 mm overlap. the cotton wool will settle tightly between the frame beam and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is attached with a stapler to the sheathing bars.

The film is overlapped and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats are stuffed, the so-called counter-rail. Boards up to 20 mm thick are used for the lock. The purpose of the lock is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

Ventilation in the bath is an important condition for full functioning.

Therefore, when installing the crate and laying the insulation, do not forget to outline the place for the ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use an aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bath, you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the other at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Place ventilation openings in accessible places in order to be able to regulate the air flow.

Only non-combustible heat-insulating material is used in the sauna. That is why the use of foam is excluded. Better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in the steam room

Fastening the lining in the bath is done exclusively by a hidden method. Experts explain this by three factors:

• Firstly, the hardware, twisted through and through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations when touching the attachment point.

• Secondly, rough hardware can give rust and ruin the surface of the lining.

• Thirdly, such a mount looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. As for the self-tapping screws, it should be noted additionally that the self-tapping screw can be twisted from the front side of the board, but it must be closed with a wooden plug.

This method is quite laborious, so users are advised to fix the wooden lining with their own hands using nails and clamps.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the bath with clapboard

The decoration of the steam room, like, indeed, of other rooms of the bath, begins from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall lamellas should rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the entrance side and is carried out only on nails or kleimer. And the point here is not even in the visual effect, but in the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the lining ceiling.

Boards, which are nailed last, are difficult to "put" on the cleaimer or to drive a nail into the groove. In this case, a finishing (countersunk) nail is used that does not have a head. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished off with a finisher. And the place where the nail is installed is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, splinters.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the bath wall. This is due to the fact that under the ceiling there is a higher temperature and the lamellas "play" more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation along the wall.

How to sheathe walls in a bath with clapboard

Wall decoration with clapboard begins from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented in the same way as installing the wall clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be borne in mind that water can rise through the wood to a height of up to half a meter with vertical fastening and half lower with horizontal fastening. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

How to make a gap between the clapboard?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board is moved relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, then each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Mounting the lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you maintain the joining of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards are close to the ceiling.

Fastening skirting boards for lining and decorative elements

Skirting boards, corners, and other accessories for finishing the sauna must not be glued. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by grinding of the installation site.

How to sheathe a doorway with clapboard

Particular attention is paid to doorways. Slopes in them are finished with lining, cut to the desired length. And the openings themselves are framed by platbands.

How to sheathe clapboard slopes on windows

Directly in the paired windows they rarely settle down, more often they are done in the dressing room or washing room. In any case, it will not be superfluous to know how to make slopes from lining.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise to install a slope in the window opening using a starter bar to the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the bar with one end, and with the second it is attached to the sheathing bar. This method of framing is ideal for its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows in the bath. But it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, sheathing it with clapboard and then decorating the place where the clapboard adjoins the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in the bath.

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Finishing the washing in the bath with clapboard

The installation of the lining in the washing room is carried out in the same way as in the steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards when stacked vertically should be at a distance of at least 30 mm. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior decoration of the sink. Wood-like decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure the long-term operation of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to sheathe the dressing room of a bath with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your belongings in it and take a break after vaping. In more modern versions of the bath, the dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and appliances are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, then the installation of the lining does not differ in features.

Due to flammability, the lining is not mounted near the furnace firebox. It is better to finish the furnace place with brick, stone, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the stove (the place where the stones traditional for the Russian bath are stacked) is not only possible, but also necessary, to trim the lining. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, wood trim the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in separate rooms of the bath, you know how to fix the lining in the bath correctly. This means that there are no obstacles to finishing the bath with wooden clapboard with your own hands.

The arrangement of a bath requires a careful selection of materials for construction. The interior decoration of the premises is especially important, because the comfort of operation depends on it. This task can be accomplished with the help of a variety of materials and finishes, each of which has its own characteristics.

Interior decoration of the bath: purpose and features

The classic Russian bath includes three main rooms: a steam room, a washing room and a vestibule. Additionally, there may be a recreation room, billiard room and other rooms. In any case, it is necessary interior decoration, which not only creates coziness, but is also needed to create an optimal atmosphere, keep warm.

The bath building can be built from a bar or another type of wood. This material is available, in demand and effective. Log structures for summer use do not need complicated finishing. A bathhouse on a log house should have well-poured lower rims; from the inside, the walls do not require additional materials. This is due to the fact that wood is able to "breathe", removing moisture and steam outside. The use of synthetic insulation will disrupt this process. However, for a winter bath, thermal insulation is necessary, clapboard finishing is appropriate. Log walls look aesthetically pleasing without additional finishing.

The construction of foam blocks is reliable, it is used at any time of the year, but it needs interior decoration. Indoors, steam rooms almost always use lining, under which layers of hydro and thermal insulation are placed. In the recreation room and dressing room, it is appropriate to use ceramic tiles, PVC panels, lining. Walls made of foam blocks are pretreated with antiseptic compounds. The floor is often trimmed ceramic tiles with anti-slip surface for comfort.

Brick for the construction of baths is rarely used, but such structures are reliable, very durable, and environmentally friendly. Brick structures do not need exterior decoration, but inside you can use porcelain stoneware for the floor, ceramic tiles, lining. In the dressing room, the walls are often trimmed PVC panels, but they are not suitable for a steam room due to the high temperature in the room.

Wooden larch paneling is a universal solution for interior decoration of a bath. This material is affordable, practical and durable. If a more reliable wall or floor covering is required, then use porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles. Bath from any building material requires interior decoration that will provide comfort, aesthetics and protect the main walls from moisture.

Interior finishing options

All bath rooms are exposed to high humidity, which requires careful selection of materials for interior decoration. There are several basic options, each of which has certain properties. The advantages, disadvantages, purpose and features of operation must be taken into account when choosing an option for interior decoration of a bath from any material.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of materials

Photo gallery: clapboard finishing options

Log walls make the bath cozy and do not require additional finishing The combination of lining and ceramic tiles - practical solution
All surfaces inside the steam room can be finished with clapboard
The lining is easy to mount both on the ceiling and on the walls Clapboard trim is convenient for a small steam room The lining is easily combined with stone and tiles The relaxation room is easy to arrange luxuriously

Choosing the type of finish

The interior decoration of the bath not only performs an aesthetic function, but also provides comfort, an optimal atmosphere in the premises. Therefore, materials for arranging a steam room, shower room, rest room or other space must meet the following requirements:

• environmental friendliness, non-toxicity, safety for human health when the material is heated;
• resistance to mechanical, temperature loads;
• easy care during operation;
• simple installation technology.

Popular materials such as wood and ceramic tiles meet these requirements. They are easily combined with each other, allowing you to create a comfortable and safe environment inside any room of the bath.

When choosing a material, its purpose is taken into account. The tile is appropriate for the floor and walls, and the ceiling is decorated with planed boards and clapboard. This combination is optimal for a shower room, and in a steam room, all surfaces are often made of wood. This allows you to create the comfort and spectacular atmosphere of a Russian bath. For a drier room, suitable stretch ceiling, but do not make plasterboard structures. This is due to high humidity in all rooms of the bath, and drywall is unstable to moisture.

Wood and lining from different breeds wood are popular materials for the interior decoration of the bath. This is due to the fact that wood is affordable, environmentally friendly, and the installation of elements does not require special preparation. For a bath, such types of wood as larch, aspen, abasha, alder are optimal. They are durable, resistant to humidity and temperature extremes.

Preparation: calculating the working area

Before starting work, you should calculate the area of ​​surfaces that need finishing. The lining is used for walls and ceilings, and the floor is built from planks. For a quality finish, you need high quality wood with the lowest resin content. Therefore, pine is rarely a material for the arrangement, as it emits resin.

The decoration of each room consists of several stages. Installation is carried out first floor covering, which is a flooring of boards with a thickness of 50 mm. The elements are laid on logs with a height of 300 mm, which are installed on a sand cushion, equipped on the ground. After that, the area of ​​the walls and ceiling is calculated, which they plan to trim with clapboard. To do this, you need to calculate the areas of each wall, ceiling and add up the data obtained.

Selection and calculation of material

Larch lining is the optimal solution for decorating a steam room or washing room. Under the influence of time and humidity, its wood becomes harder, which makes a durable interior decoration. When choosing a lining, you should pay attention to the following features:

• lining for finishing the steam room, washing room must be marked "Extra class" or "A class". Such material is devoid of large knots, has a homogeneous structure, an even surface;
• wooden elements should not have any signs of decay, cracks, deformation. Smooth and dense lining is easy to install and looks aesthetically pleasing;
• for finishing you need not only lining, but also steam, thermal insulation materials... Finishing is carried out only after the installation of these layers;
• the thickness of the board must be at least 12.5 mm, a spike of 8 mm corresponds to the depth of the groove. Material moisture - no more than 12%;
• quality material has a flat, smooth surface.

It is also important to correctly calculate the amount of material. Lining is often calculated in square meters. In this case, its quantity is equal to the area of ​​the working surfaces. This indicator needs to be increased by 5%, since damage to the material is possible during operation, therefore, the lining is purchased with a margin.

Bars or thin slats are required for work. If the thermal insulation of the bath was carried out outside, then only the installation of vapor barrier and decoration is carried out inside. Therefore, you need to purchase a vapor barrier film that will ensure indoor comfort. Otherwise, the insulation is carried out from the inside and you will need insulation, a waterproofing film and bars for the lathing.

Video: how to choose a lining

Tools and supplies

The construction and arrangement of any facility requires the use of reliable tools. The quality of fastening materials is of particular importance in the construction of a bath, because the durability of the finish depends on it.

List of tools and consumables:

• construction stapler with staples;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• building level;
• nails;
• self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion coating;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• hacksaw.

The tools must be prepared in advance, and the fasteners must be purchased with a margin. This makes it possible to securely fix all materials and elements.

Step-by-step instructions for interior decoration of the bath

Wall decoration is carried out after the installation of heat and vapor insulation. To do this, you need to attach vertical or horizontal bars to the wall, the distance between which is equal to the width of the insulation used. On top of the racks, a waterproofing film is fixed with staples, and then the insulation is also fixed on the staples or glue. After that, they attach vapor barrier which protects the supporting structures from condensation.

The cladding of the walls of the bath from the inside involves the following actions:

1. On top of the vapor barrier film, slats are attached, the distance between which should be 50 cm. A gap of 3 cm should be left between the vertical slats of the frame and the ceiling and the same distance from the floor. This is necessary for the shrinkage of the structure.
2. TO wooden surface without internal insulation the slats are fastened with self-tapping screws, and to the brick base - with dowels. In this case, it is important to control the verticality of the rails using a plumb line, and check the plane with cords stretched between the extreme bars. Clamps are installed on the back side of the lining board, after which the panel is attached to the crate with nails.
3. Next, a sheet is collected from the lining, inserting one element into the groove of the other. On the back wall of each panel, a clamp is attached, with the help of which the lining is fixed to the crate. You can also fix the details simply on nails, deepening their heads into the wood. The spacing between the fasteners is about 60 cm. It is important to connect the parts tightly, but leave a gap of about 2 mm, as the wood swells with moisture.

Lathing when cladding walls with clapboard is necessary for walls made of any materials. The bars allow you to create a ventilation gap, and the vapor barrier film ensures moisture removal. This preserves the quality of the supporting structures and the appearance of the finish. The ceiling is sheathed with clapboard according to the same technology, having previously fixed the vapor barrier film.

Video: preparing the ceiling for clapboard sheathing

Decorating a bath with clapboard is a popular method of arrangement. At the same time, wood is successfully combined with ceramic tiles, stone. Therefore, the interior decoration of the bath can be varied, but it is important to choose the installation technology of a suitable material.

With the arrival of cold weather, you just want to wrap yourself up in the warmest clothes and wait for the arrival of spring. However, spring will not come soon, and I don’t want to sit like a "cabbage" in 10 sweaters. What to do in this case? It's time to heat your bathhouse, because going to the bathhouse in severe frosts is just an indescribable feeling. No cold medicine can replace a visit to the bath. And in order to make the trip to the bathhouse even more pleasant, we offer you 100 best ideas for decorating a bath.

Bath interior design

The classic Russian bathhouse includes a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. If funds allow, you can make a swimming pool, a games room, a recreation area, a kitchen and whatever you want.

The laconic decoration in the Russian style with a massive table, benches and couches is most popular among fans of the bath.

The bathhouse can be decorated with carved wooden objects, oak and birch brooms, bundles of fragrant herbs.

Materials for finishing the bath inside

Bath finishing materials must be resistant to temperature and humidity changes. Of course, one should not forget about safety, because the materials must be hypoallergenic and not emit toxins.

The durability and practicality of the materials are equally important. Cheap material, which has a short service life, will ultimately cost more for the reason that after 3-4 years it will need to be replaced.

Different types of wood are often used to decorate the steam room and dressing room. A combination of different shades, healing properties and aromas of wood gives a good effect.

Steam room

For the steam room, choose wood without resinous compounds, with low heat transfer and resistant to high temperatures and high humidity.

Linden has a pleasant aroma and does not emit tar when heated. It has low thermal conductivity and high moisture resistance, due to which the steam room heats up quickly.

Aspen is a very dense and durable wood. Resistant to rot, mildew and mildew.

Alder has a water-repellent effect and a beautiful appearance.

Abash has low thermal conductivity and does not darken at all.

The desire to protect the tree from decay is understandable. But in no case should you cover the wood with varnish or paint. Instead of the scent of wood, you get the scent of chemicals. Even if there is no unpleasant smell, it will definitely not benefit your health. The best way- leave the steam room without impregnations and coatings, properly caring for it - ventilate and dry.

Instead of wood, the floors in the steam room should be made of tiles - the tiles dry quickly and are resistant to the appearance of fungus.

The lounges in the steam room are best made of aspen, linden or alder.

Dressing room

For the decoration of the dressing room, conifers are suitable, whose aroma is not only pleasant, but also incredibly useful, and birch.

Pine is the most practical and durable finishing material.

Spruce is lighter than pine and is also excellent as a material for a dressing room.

Fir is a material from which resin is practically not emitted.