What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

We have already repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.

This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to the practical issues of ventilation in the bath.

How to properly ventilate the bath: planning during the construction phase

Indeed, there are far from isolated cases of construction of baths without any kind of ventilation. At first glance, it seems that the train has already left. However, in reality, there is always an opportunity to fix everything, however, you have to come to terms with the fact that this will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to make forgotten ventilation in a brick bath, where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls at the construction stage. But in other cases, the task is not easy.

But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all it comes on the layout of the ventilation openings and channels by which they are connected to the street or adjacent premises (depending on the choice). Based on this scheme, the volume of premises and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated, which provides the necessary gas exchange in each of the bath rooms: steam room, washing room, rest room, dressing room, toilet. If ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.

If the bath has already been built

Take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows, and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to volley ventilation and use the furnace draft as a ventilation one.

This will fix the problem in general, but there are drawbacks to be aware of:

1. By opening windows and doors, we do not so much reduce the temperature in the room as we distill the steam to other rooms (instead of the street from which the inflow comes from, it goes inward and condensation falls out there), and then the steam comes out, and the temperature only dropped a little and will recover in a short time.
2. To use the stove draft, you still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then the inflow from the neighboring rooms will flow through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.

To regulate ventilation with the help of a stove, a gate and stove doors are used. If it is necessary to increase the air exchange, it is enough just to open the damper and the firebox doors all the way. To reduce it, the gate is covered, but not completely, because closed with unburned wood is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.

by the way, the problem of forgotten ventilation in a bath made of any material is solved by the described methods. They cannot completely replace the supply and exhaust ventilation, but they do not have to worry about making holes in the walls.

If this ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill the wall. But more on that below.

Device, diagrams: how to make ventilation in the bath

There are a number of materials included in other articles, so in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot useful information on a topic of interest:

Do-it-yourself sauna ventilation: a step-by-step guide

Now let's proceed to the analysis of the points that make up the creation of bath ventilation with our own hands, let's call it a step-by-step guide.

Choosing a scheme

In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question "how to make ventilation in a bath correctly" is ambiguous, since there are different schemes. Physics says that the inlet should be located below the exhaust. What exactly will be the difference in height between them is up to you. Despite the fact that in many sources it is proposed to make an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensation), there is a more advanced scheme, in which there are two inside exhaust ports for one exhaust outlet... It's simple: a pipe with two holes is placed - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has only one exit to the street.

The schemes also differ in which walls to make the hood on. Most often there are no questions with the inflow - it is done under the stove, and the hood is made on the opposite, and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and in adjacent room.

Choose the optimal ventilation path

Calculations are simply made only for forced ventilation. For a natural one, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is this necessary? Take the case where the exhaust vent comes out to the same side from which it blows strong wind... And it turns out that the inflow strives to get into the exhaust hole because of this. Then the supply air will also "turn around" in the opposite direction. This is called reverse thrust or overturning thrust.

In order to avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be lengthened to bring in the right direction, and even made with turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.

The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet of the inflow to the side from which the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood - on the opposite side or through the roof through a high pipe.

ADVICE! Instead of making ventilation ducts with knees, it is better to immediately make forced ventilation.

By the way, not every wall will accept the ventilation duct well in its thickness. Better not to do this during outer walls from blocks. There, all ventilation is carried out along the inner walls and partitions, often on top of the walls.

How to make a hole in the wall

This point is discussed in great detail later.

Installation of pipes and grates

Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.

ATTENTION! If you take plastic ones, pay attention to their temperature range so that the steam room does not spoil them.

Ventilation in the dressing room

The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air, which is comfortable to be in after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - an exhaust hood. And to speed up the process of gas exchange, a fan is often installed on this hood. The exhaust hole itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. It is drilled out in an accessible way in the wall, put a plug on it on one side, and a grate or deflector on the other. In the case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions supplied with the device.

But if the furnace of the stove is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air from the street comes to the stove. For this, a ventilation duct is equipped, most likely made of galvanized steel, which passes under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to the oven door. The installation of this channel is carried out before the end of the work with the floor. The pipe of the calculated diameter is inserted at one end into a hole in the wall, where it is fixed with polyurethane foam and is closed with a grate, and on the other side is led out to the oven and supplied with an adjustable plug.

How to make ventilation in the steam room of a bath

The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms of the bath in the same way as the steam room itself differs from them in its extremeness. In the Russian bathhouse, the ventilation is shut off for a while while you are steaming. But at the same time, it is extremely important. to saturate the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, distribution of air flows.

More detailed information on this topic can be found in articles and in general. In particular, among the well-proven methods of ventilation of this room, one can call bastu ventilation. But you can also read about it in the mentioned articles.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room

Steam room ventilation schemes can also be found in. As for the stages self-assembly ducts, then they are no different from those given above, so now we will consider in detail the method of drilling holes in the walls from a log house or a bar, as well as from blocks.

How to make a hole in the wall of a log house

1. Before you start you need to know place and size the future hole, which is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still have to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After that, the markup is done. (It is advisable at this moment to have both pipes and grates on hand so that the process can be controlled through them.)
2. A drill for wood, the length of which must be greater than the thickness of the wall with the entire "pie", if any, a through hole is drilled in the center of the marking.
3. After that, from the outside of the wall a circle of the required diameter is drawn with a drilled hole in the center.
4. External and internal wall trim is neatly cut in a circle, freeing the log wall.
5. The same drill is used to make holes in the log around the entire circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the inner fragment later. Observe the perpendicularity of the drill to the plane of the wall.
6. The chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between the drilled holes. The work should be done both inside and outside the bath.
7. Taking out the middle part, do not line up the edges- it's too much.

Useful video

And here in the video, the same is done using a drill and a crown:

How to make a hole in a block wall

The method for a block wall is exactly the same as described above, except that a concrete drill is taken (you can use a bit instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with metal (reinforcing mesh, pins, fastening fittings of openings). If this happens, you will need special pliers (hydraulic).

IMPORTANT! There is a likelihood of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are pins under the ceiling that hold the Mauerplate, so the pincers should be rented in advance.

As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all of this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross-section), which must be insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.

Plugs and dampers are purchased for the required diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because the plastic in the steam room will emit carcinogens that we do not need, and the metal will burn in the heated steam room. As for the schemes, we have already given links to them.

Useful video

It shows how using a drill is done square hole in the wall.

Well, that's all that we could tell you about how to make ventilation in a bath. We can only wish you success in the implementation of our plans. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a bath is a difficult business, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the wasted time or the money invested.

In contact with

Often to ensure ventilation you can limit yourself to aeration. It is necessary to make holes with dampers, it is advisable to choose the recommended places so that the air circulation is soft and constantly maintained. If necessary, you can use forced air exchange systems.

Over the oven

Outside air inlet equipped above the heater... An exit is made in the opposite wall, it must be lower than the entrance. The warm stream will be lifted up by a jet of cold air and exited through the hole. Due to the constant release of warm air, cold air will not be able to enter through the outlet.

Behind the oven

Air inlet can be positioned at the bottom of the wall behind the stove... The stove will heat the incoming cold air, so there will be no drafts or sudden temperature changes. The outlet ducts can be built in the floor. They can pass through the subfloor, passing into a ventilation pipe that brings air out to the street. The air outflow created according to this scheme saves heat, helps to reduce heating costs, and gives comfort to those in the bath. The main advantage is additional heating of the subfloor. It dries well, so mold and various fungi do not grow in it.

Under the oven

The hole is being made next to the stove as low as possible... When cold air passes by the stove, it heats up, so it rises. Outlets are made in the corner opposite the oven. To create the first, you need to measure 1 meter from the floor, and the second is built under the ceiling. They are connected by a ventilation box that can be brought out to the roof, for example, through the attic.

Underfloor hood

The opening for the supply draft must be equipped from the back of the oven... It should rise 1.5 m from the level of the stove. The hood is installed under the floor, approximately at a distance of 30 cm. A fan is installed in the exhaust opening. All incoming air will be heated absolutely evenly. First, the air masses are heated from the oven and rise upward. After cooling down, they rush down, go out into the street. To keep warm for a longer time, you need to make the exhaust hole as low as possible.

Other popular options

1. If there is no other possibility, you can make an air inlet anywhere on the wall near the stove, and an outlet also in a free location, but in the opposite wall. To speed up the air circulation, a fan can be installed for the outlet.
2. The location of the inlet and outlet openings on one wall opposite from the furnace. Air will enter through the structure at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exit through the installed one at a height of 30 cm from the ceiling. This scheme great for baths with only one outer wall.
3. The inlet is placed at a distance of 30 cm from the floor behind the stove, and the outlet is also at a height of 30 cm, but on the opposite side.
4. Option for baths with a continuous cycle. The blower of the heater is used as an exhaust hood, so there is a need to equip only one hole for the air inlet. It must be placed opposite the brazier at the height of its level.

One of the main elements of ventilation there is a chimney for the bath. Warm air it comes out better through the pipe than through the ventilation holes. To freshen the air as quickly as possible, you need to open the chimney along with the equipped holes.

The temperature in the bath must not be allowed to drop lower than the outdoor temperature. In this case, there is a risk of smoke pollution in the room in which the stove is located, usually a steam room. The cooled air forms a plug, it can be released by opening all the dampers on the ventilation openings, and connecting the chimney. Sometimes you have to use a special opening for ash disposal.

Video on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself steam room ventilation

It is advisable to install a heater in the steam room. It provides the main ventilation system. The air from the steam room passes through the blower, so its circulation is already well ensured. The blower is used instead of a special hood device. For maximum air outflow the oven must be installed at a level lower than the finished floor. To start ventilation, you just have to open a little front door or a window. Disadvantage this method ventilation is to maintain it only during the burning of the stove. If the device is inoperative, the hood stops completely.

In addition to the heater-stove, ventilation in the bath is maintained additionally equipped with holes(see photo below). They must be closed with latches with a lattice. To regulate the air exchange in the steam room, you just need to open or close the shutters. After each park, it is necessary to ventilate the room, therefore, open the openings for a while. If this is not done, the air will remain humid, heavy, and there is also a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning due to its high content.

When the steam room only heats up, the stove is heated, you need to make sure that the openings are tightly closed. When the room is warm enough, they can be opened. In order to avoid the formation of back draft, it is necessary at the construction stage to provide for the area of ​​the exhaust openings to exceed the supply openings. Steam accumulates at the very top, in order to lower it, you can spray water in small quantities on the floor. To quickly release steam, you can also wave a broom, towel in different directions.

If the stove is not installed directly in the steam room, then a different ventilation method is used. An inlet opening is made near the heating device at a height of 30 cm from the floor. An exhaust hood is made on the wall opposite from it, placing it 30 cm down from the ceiling.

Sometimes the inlet is placed behind the stove at the bottom of the wall. The air coming from the street is warmed by the stove, so the room cools down moderately. On the wall opposite to the stove, you need to form 2 openings. They will form one exhaust duct. The first opening is made at a distance of 1 m from the floor, and the second under the ceiling. The air is discharged through the hood to the roof.

With the device of such ventilation, the steam room is quickly heated, while fuel is saved. A musty smell in the room is prevented, as the subfloor dries well.

Natural ventilation

So that fresh air flows into the bath, you need to make a small opening in the wall, located at a distance of about 50 cm from the stove. A retractable damper is equipped for it, which allows you to regulate the amount of incoming air. Too high an arrangement is not reasonable, since the hottest air rises to the ceiling. To make the most of the heat from the stove, you need to make a hole in the middle of the wall. If the hole is too low, the thrust will be minimal. In order for it to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe or purchase a fan.

Forced ventilation

To ensure that as much fresh air as possible flows into the steam room, openings should be placed diametrically to each other... If forced air outflow is to be used, it is advisable to make the inlet higher than the outlet. If it is possible to build a ventilation system in which the air flow enters from below, heats up from the stove, rises up, and then goes outside, then the installation of additional fans is not required.

When using fans do not place both the supply and exhaust openings at the same level. The air supply can be closed, which will lead to the concentration of cooled air masses from below, while it will be too hot at the top.

It is undesirable to locate an exhaust opening in the ceiling. When the incoming air goes up, you will have to spend a lot of time to warm up the room sufficiently. Warm air rises quickly, mixing little with cold air, and quickly leaves the bath. You can take the air upward in the dressing room if the goal is to heat it from the steam room.

Section of openings for ventilation must be related to total area baths or steam rooms separately. Do not make the holes too small. If ventilation is insufficient, the air will take a long time to renew, it may become too humid, and musty will appear.

The scheme of ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath.

Ventilation in the washroom

As in the steam room, in washing bath there is also a large accumulation of moisture. To avoid constantly damp air, leading to the appearance of fungi and mold, it is necessary to ensure its timely removal outside. Many water often accumulates under the floor, so for good ventilation it is often enough asbestos pipe... It can be placed in the corner. One end of the pipe is placed under the finished floor, and the other is brought out to the roof, you need to equip it with a deflector.

The construction of moderate, regulated ventilation allows you to keep the bath room dry, maintain a moderate temperature, get rid of moisture, constantly breathe in renewed, fresh air. Ventilation regulates the direction and location of the air inlet and outlet openings, carbon monoxide outlet, and saves on fuel for the stove.

A high-quality ventilation system is an indispensable element of the steam room. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health. A properly equipped system will protect people from carbon monoxide and improve the comfort of staying in the room. We will talk about the features and technology of installing the ventilation system in the bath below.

Characteristics of proper ventilation for the steam room

Proper ventilation in the bath performs several functions at once:

• provides the room with oxygen;
• improves the comfort of being in the steam room;
• removes carbon monoxide;
• allows you to economically use firewood;
• evenly distributes air flows;
• protects the building from the formation of mold or mildew.

The most the best option ventilation in the bath is a supply and exhaust. For these purposes, equip:

• inlet - through them, the flow of fresh air into the steam room is organized, a fan with a ventilation tube is installed, additional air flow is provided by open vents or through the door;
• exhaust hole - removal of heated air from the room, through the firebox, blower or devices that improve traction.

For improvement supply and exhaust system ventilation is used in various ways. We offer you to familiarize yourself with one of the most efficient ventilation systems:

1. The inlet openings are located at the bottom of the room, next to the firebox.

2. Exhaust holes strictly on the opposite side from the top. It is possible to organize two openings at once for better air control.

3. The height of the exhaust outlet determines the draft level. If the ventilation opening is low, reinforce the system with a ventilation pipe additionally.

4. With the help of special dampers, air supply from the room is controlled.

5. Air renewal in the steam room is done every 2-3 hours.

In addition, the individual parameters of the ventilation system are determined by the type of room, the version of the bath. For example, in a Russian bath, periodic ventilation will help to refresh the air. In addition, the size and place of installation of the furnace are taken into account; in relation to this parameter, two types of ventilation are organized.

How to make ventilation in a steam room with a separate firebox

We offer the option of organizing ventilation in the steam room, the firebox of which is located in the adjacent room. This scheme is popular in ordinary Russian baths. A combustion tunnel is used to bring the firebox into an adjacent room. Among the advantages of such an arrangement of the furnace, we note:

• no garbage in the steam room;
• the door to the room opens only at the entrance;
• the possibility of installing heat-resistant glass for admiring an open flame.

Two methods are used to mount the supply openings indoors:

1. Arrangement of a ventilation duct in the underground space. Removing it in front of the furnace room, installing ventilation grilles on the channel.

2. Floor ventilation supply.

Install the hood on the opposite wall, diagonally in relation to the inlet.

The main quality of the organization of proper ventilation is that the supply openings in area must coincide with the exhaust openings.

Ventilation scheme in a steam room with a firebox inside the room

If the stove is located directly in the steam room, then the ventilation is organized differently. In this case, the air flow through the blower will solve the problem with natural ventilation. This method is appropriate if the fire is constantly in the stove.

If chimney the bath is absent, and the stove operates in a short-term mode, a more advanced ventilation system is used. Check out the technology for arranging the ventilation system in the steam room:

1. Build a special brick podium on which the stove will be installed. With its help, a ventilation box is brought to the furnace.

2. Lay the ends, build another box of bricks. As a result, the first structure was installed at the top of the stove channel, and the second - to the steam room door.

3. On a wall adjacent to an ordinary room, build doors in the places where the masonry passes. They heat up the next room, if necessary.

4. A stove is installed on the podium, it is possible to mount it on a corner or on steel pictures. Finish the oven with a brick, install a brick screen, with two convection valves.

5. The exhaust ventilation system operates at the expense of the furnace firebox.

Correct installation of the ventilation system is based on its correct adjustment. General rules ventilation system control:

• at the beginning of the furnace, all openings and supply and exhaust openings are closed;
• wait for the increase temperature regime, then adjust the ventilation holes with the slides;
• if it is necessary to increase the volume of oxygen in the room, open the inlet;
• upon completion of work, open the doors for better ventilation of the steam room.

Steam room ventilation photo:

Use special devices to determine the temperature and humidity in the room. A thermometer of alcohol or electric type... Please note that the use of the mercury version is strictly prohibited. Use a hygrometer to check the humidity level.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system is based on the following factors:

• melting the oven, the air gradually heats up and escapes through the convection door;
• the lower door remains open until the oven is fully warmed up;
• close the door from the bottom and work with the top hatch;
• in the process of soaring, only the blower installed on the box opens;
• after using the steam room for its intended purpose, ventilate the room well.

DIY ventilation device in the steam room

The main functions of the ventilation system in the bath:

• air supply during bathing procedures;
• high-quality drying of the room.

The ventilation system in the bath should not:

• violate the temperature of the room, in the process of taking bath procedures;
• separate temperature flows, that is, cool air is closer to the floor, and warm air is from above;
• remove unused air from the steam room.

In addition, the lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of unpleasant air in the room, the formation of mold and mildew, which are harmful to human health.

There are three main types of ventilation in the steam room:

• a natural option is the supply of air flows through the pressure difference;
• mechanical version - air supply using special mechanisms, when measuring these characteristics with instruments;
• the combined option is the creation of artificial pressure by fans and hoods.

Indoors, there are two types of air transportation: supply and exhaust. For these purposes, a hole is equipped diagonally with respect to the supply.

It is not recommended to install an exhaust vent in the steam room on the ceiling, this ventilation system increases the heating time of the room. It is rational to install the hood under the ceiling, additionally equipping it with a damper to adjust the draft.

Also, provide a ventilated floor in the bath. Thus, the term increases flooring since it is in constant contact with water. Recommendations for arranging floor ventilation:

1. During the installation of the foundation, provide ventilation of the floors, build vents from the basement part.

2. Install ventilation openings on opposite walls to allow air flow. Install grates on them to avoid rodents.

3. The finishing floor should be slightly higher in level than the blower is located. Thus, it will function as a cooker hood.

4. Install wooden planks with a small gap, at least half a centimeter.

5. After taking bath procedures, ventilate the room well and dry the floors.

Another way of organizing a ventilation system in a bathhouse is “Po Bastu”. In this case, fresh air enters the room from the baking space, and exhaust comes from an opening near the door. For these purposes, construct a wooden exhaust box lined with foil inside.

Build a ventilation duct under the floor next to sheet metal preventing heat from entering it. The size of the structure should not exceed twenty percent. The regulation of the fresh air flow with such a system is quite simple. It is enough to open the ventilation hole and the blower. In addition, it is possible to avoid the accumulation of unpleasant odors in the steam room. This method of organizing ventilation is appropriate if the firebox is located directly in the steam room.

How to organize ventilation in the steam room with your own hands

We offer the five most popular schemes for organizing supply ventilation in a steam room:

1. Scheme No. 1.

Place the inlet under the stove 50 cm from the floor and the outlet on the opposite side thirty centimeters from the ceiling. The forced movement of air masses is provided by a fan. Thus, it is possible to ensure uniform heating of the air. The height of the first opening adjusts the natural ventilation draft.

2. Scheme No. 2.

Two ventilation holes are located on the same wall, always opposite the stove. The inlet is set at a distance of thirty centimeters from the floor, and the outlet is thirty centimeters from the ceiling. Install a fan in the outlet, cooled air entering the room collides with the stove, heats up and comes out.

3. Scheme No. 3.

Place the inlet behind the stove, about twenty centimeters from the floor. The inlet is installed at the same height, only close to the ceiling of the opposite wall. A hood is installed in the second hole. The principle of operation of the system is based on the ingress of cooled air into the steam room, passing through the oven and pulling it out with the second hole.

4. Scheme No. 4.

This method is relevant for a steam room with a floor that has holes for water drainage. The inlet is installed behind the furnace, and the outlet is a drain pipe through which air is removed to the outside.

5. Scheme No. 5.

Relevant for a bath with a constantly working stove. The inlet is arranged opposite the stove, and the blower with chimney function as an outlet

If it is necessary to increase the temperature in the steam room, it is enough to close all the plugs. After taking bath procedures, they are removed. It is quite possible to organize these ventilation schemes on your own, without buying expensive devices and special material investments.

How to do a steam room vapor barrier with your own hands

The vapor barrier in the steam room allows you to maintain optimal temperature premises. Special materials in the form of vapor-tight films, insulation and waterproofing will help to create a high-quality vapor barrier. The film protects the insulation from the penetration of water vapor, while not allowing moisture in the hot air to pass through.

A well-equipped vapor barrier and ventilation system increase the service life of the room itself and its external decoration. Since hot air rises upward, first of all, qualitatively vaporize the ceiling.

For these purposes, use lakhs, boards, about 6 cm thick. From above, they are covered with aluminum-based foil, cardboard with increased density or wax paper impregnated with linseed oil. After fixing one of these materials, the ceiling is finished with clay and insulated.

In addition, it will help to vaporize the ceiling edged board... On the boards, cardboard impregnated with linseed oil is installed, which is then sheathed with wooden clapboard.

Plates made of expanded polystyrene are a modern replacement for soft clay, they are distinguished by good thermal insulation and operational characteristics.

The following are used as vapor barrier materials for the walls of the steam room:

• roofing material;
• aluminum foil;
• glassine;
• polyethylene based film.

Glassine and roofing felt are rarely used for thermal insulation of a steam room. This is due to the fact that with strong heating, they release toxic substances and unpleasant odors... The steam room is vapor-insulated with special foil materials. Combined methods of steam and heat insulation are distinguished. For example, NPP polypropylene, among its advantages, we note:

• excellent moisture resistance;
• resistance to temperature rise;
• laminated coating prevents the development of mold and mildew;
• combined heat and vapor insulation.

In addition, it is possible to use roll vapor barrier in the form of roll foil or fiberglass plates. Use foil tape to seal the joints between vapor barrier materials.

The boards are installed on the ceiling with a small expansion gap of 20 mm. Thus, the impact of moisture on these areas is reduced. Please note that the vapor barrier in the steam room must be securely hidden behind the main finishing material, and a high-quality ventilation system is its complement.

Steam room ventilation video:

Ventilation in the bath is a must. First of all, ventilation is designed to ensure the safety of people who take bath procedures.

Everyone knows that when breathing, a person inhales oxygen and exhales carbon dioxide. In a tightly closed room, he will begin to suffocate after a while. And in the steam room, where the temperature and the concentration of water vapor are high, this will begin to happen even faster.

Having relaxed on the shelf, there is no time to get to the saving one. The price of the wrong ventilation device can be too high.

The second important factor is wood decay. It is very problematic to enjoy and benefit from bath procedures, smelling rot and mold. That's why proper ventilation in a Russian bath - a guarantee not only of its benefits, but also of the health of vacationers.

In the photo - rotting wood with insufficient drying of the tree

Experts believe that such a ventilation device in the bath can be considered correct, in which the air in the room is replaced three times in one hour. The ventilation scheme in the bath is selected depending on the type of structure and materials that were used in the construction of the walls.

General principles of ventilation in the bath

The correct design of the bath and ventilation in it, regardless of the type of structure, is based on the following basic principles:

• Fresh air that enters the steam room should not violate its temperature regime;
• Exhaust air, which contains the most carbon dioxide, should be removed from the room;
• The location of the air in the steam room should be layered: the hottest - under the ceiling, on the bench - the most comfortable and cold - near the floor.

Note!
There should be no draft in the steam room!

If all these principles are followed, then the bath procedures will bring the maximum effect for which they are calculated - the restoration of mental and physical strength.

Ventilation device in a freestanding wooden bath

The tree is considered ideal building material for a bath. Wooden walls"Breathe", so the issue of air exchange is partially solved in a natural way.

However, even in wooden building in the steam room ventilation is necessary. At least for quick drying of wood after taking bath procedures.

Work plays an important role in air exchange processes sauna stove... When water is poured onto, a column of hot steam is created, which rises upward. As it cools, it sinks, pushing the used air out of the steam room.

Together, the above factors allow you to create the necessary humidity and temperature in the steam room, and ensure normal air circulation.

Let us consider in more detail the ventilation device in wooden baths. The main tasks for us, of course, will be to ensure the flow of fresh air and the removal of already used air. Our instructions will help you cope with these tasks.

Providing air flow

The correct frame is laid in such a way that the lower rims are free. With this arrangement, it is possible to access fresh air from the street.

In addition, in any case, there will be gaps around the door of the steam room, sufficient for its entry. The stove in such baths is placed closer to the door so that it heats up immediately.

If the steam room is designed for 6 or more people, a separate air duct is supplied to the stove, which supports the combustion process. If you make this duct double, then the problem of fresh air intake is solved once and for all.

Exhaust air removal

If the stove is heated directly from the steam room, then the exhaust air is thrown out through the firebox into. At correct installation oven, no additional holes are required.

In order to dry the room after the end of the bath procedures, a small hole (up to 200x200 mm) can be cut through the wall. During heating and operation of the steam room, it is closed with a special plug.

If there is a window in the steam room, such a hole is not needed. Sometimes a window from the steam room is cut into the washing room, and in the washing room they already make either a through hole on the street, or another window. Thus, when drying, two birds with one stone are immediately killed, both the steam room and the washing room are dried.

Thus, the myth that for wooden bath no ventilation is required, it is confirmed when the following conditions are met:

• The steam room is designed for 2-4 people;
• The lower rims of the log house fit freely;
• The stove is heated directly from the steam room;
• There is a hole or window in the wall for ventilation.

Actually, such family baths are usually built on personal plots.

Ventilation device in a freestanding brick bath

A brick structure, as well as a structure made of foam concrete, expanded clay blocks and other capital structures, is another matter. Ventilation in a brick bath is more complicated.

The first difference is that floors in a brick building must be ventilated. The thing is that the floors in the bath are constantly in contact with water, and if they are deaf, then the boards will have to be changed about once every three to four years. You don't even need to talk about unpleasant odors and mold.

Ventilation of the floor in the bath is laid even at the stage of foundation construction. For this, special holes are made in the foundation from opposite sides. These holes will provide through air circulation under the floor and dry the log.

The second difference is the mandatory presence of special supply and exhaust openings in the steam room. There may be several of them. Two air inlets are made at floor level and covered with bars to prevent rodents from entering.

For the ventilation device in the bath, there are 4 most popular schemes, from which you can choose the most suitable for you.

• Scheme No. 1. The inlet is located behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the floor. An exhaust hole is cut in the opposite wall no higher than 30 cm from the floor. A fan for a bath is installed on it, which will provide air circulation.

According to this scheme, the air in the steam room warms up evenly, the incoming air heats up from the stove and rises up. As it cools, it goes down and exits through the outlet. The lower it is located, the stronger the air flow will be. When using a fan, a ventilation valve can be installed at the outlet.

• Scheme No. 2. Suitable for those saunas where the stove is heated from a steam room. In this case, the inflow is done directly under the stove. The flow of fresh air is sucked in by the stove, supporting the combustion, and provides an inflow directly into the room.

The exhaust outlet is positioned above the floor and connected to it. corrugated pipe, which rises up to the level of the roof and out onto the street. In other cases, the ventilation duct is made in the wall.

Note!
If the walls of the bath are made of expanded clay concrete blocks, then the ventilation ducts are best laid during construction.

• Scheme No. 3. According to this scheme, ventilation for the bath is arranged through the cracks in the floor. In this case, the inlet is made in the wall near the stove at a height of 30-50 cm from the floor. The air, warming up, rises up and goes out through the cracks between the floorboards into the basement. From the basement space, it is thrown out through a special pipe.

Note! For this type of ventilation to function properly, it is necessary to leave 5-10 mm gaps between the floorboards.

• Scheme No. 4. This scheme is suitable when the stove also heats other rooms.

Fresh air is sucked in by the stove through the holes in the floor and, passing through the firebox, enters the steam room and into the washing room. From the premises, it is removed through the holes located below, above the floor level.

There are also combined ventilation schemes, but for their own device it is necessary to consult a specialist.

To clearly understand how ventilation is arranged in a bath, the video in this article will help you.

Among critical indicators Russian baths are traditionally called the temperature and humidity level of the air, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, staying in a steam room with musty air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it correctly.

Before proceeding to the description of the features of the direct technological process, for a start, let's clarify why ventilation is generally needed in the bath in the steam room. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the absence of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for steam rooms

There are three types of ventilation in the steam room:

• natural;
• mechanical;
• combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is ensured by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and outside. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then goes out through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath - this creates the conditions for drawing in new air through the inlet. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here you need to take into account one nuance: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Mechanical ventilation functions by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows to the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of ​​the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, since it will not withstand the harsh conditions of a steam room - here it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures- up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate inlet.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on them design features your Russian bath.

• The inlet is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the stove, and the exhaust outlet is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
• The inlet is behind the heater at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the exhaust outlet is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out by means of a fan. main feature circuits - very high heating rate of fresh air.

• Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are located on one side directly opposite the stove, but on different levels: the first - at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second - 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan that is mounted in an exhaust outlet.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with internal placement of the steam room - when the room has only one external side.

• The inlet is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust hole - instead, a special flowing floor is provided: the spent air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - rapid drying of the floor.
• The inlet opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. This scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heating device works continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is advisable to make all the holes for ventilation even at the stage of building the bath, since punching channels into finished structure Is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to timely make all the necessary edits to the work plan.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust opening should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the inlet opening. In any case, the "outlet" should not be less than the "inlet", otherwise it will be impossible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two "exits" in one room.

Thirdly, in order to regulate the air flow in the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special dampers or shutters. They will be useful to you in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively strive to a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross-section of the ventilation hole should be related to the area of ​​the steam room in the proportion: 1 cubic meter. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the room air will not be able to quickly renew itself.

Of course, organizing ventilation in a bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: ​​without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you adhere to them unswervingly, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.

Bath ventilation: video