What can you cook from squid: quick and tasty

Sooner or later, we all try to change something in our apartment. Someone makes expensive repairs and completely renews furniture by selling or throwing out the old one and buying a new one. Others do more rationally, giving old, but solid furniture a second life.

You can restore it yourself, without spending money on workshop services. This can be done with varnish, paint, wallpaper, self-adhesive film and other materials. Individual elements can be ordered by the master if there are no certain skills, for example, wood carving or metal forging.

There are several ways to restore furniture with your own hands, but there are general steps that cannot be skipped. About each in order.

Test of strength

Update facade only old bedside table or closet and you won't be able to calm down on this. If the piece of furniture wobbles, it will become problematic to use. Therefore, the first step is to replace all fasteners and fittings if necessary.

If the doors wobble and hang obliquely, and drawers skewed, and now and then they get stuck in a niche, it is necessary to carefully tighten all the bolts and nuts. If they are rusted and don't lend themselves to a screwdriver, you can moisten it with vinegar or cola.

Do the same with the wobbly legs. If they are planted on bolts or screws, unscrew them, and if on glue, and it is dry and ruffled, carefully disconnect the legs and think over how to make a new connection using self-tapping screws. The handles will also have to be replaced if their design is outdated, or they have lost their functionality over time.

Cleaning

Before you restore old furniture with your own hands, it must be cleaned of all kinds of dirt. First of all, you need to wash it with a soapy solution, to which add a few drops of vegetable oil.

If old paint or varnish coating does not hold well, you need to remove the coating and level the surface with sandpaper or a grinder.

Fill cracks and apply a coat of primer before applying new paint. It will increase the adhesion of the paint to the wood.

Dyeing

Considering the photo of furniture after restoration, it can be noted that most often it is repainted. To do this, use enamel or acrylic paints on water based... The surface must be absolutely smooth before painting. It is undesirable to apply this method to valuable wood species. Woody texture has always been appreciated more.

It is better to apply the paint with a foam roller. If you plan to use several colors, each previous one should dry out. To make the joints between the shades even, use masking tape.

As for the color of the paint, this is a matter of taste. If you plan to place this piece of furniture in certain interior, it should match the overall design.

Stencils can be used to paint countertops or cabinet doors and nightstands. First, a shade is applied, which will serve as a background. Then, after it dries, a stencil is applied and a new shade is applied.

It is convenient to purchase adhesive stencils. It will fix well when doing work, and then just as easily removed. The original solution is lace as a stencil. With its help, you can make curbs.

Varnishing

Furniture made of valuable species of trees - beech, oak, walnut, varnished. Transparent varnish does not mask the texture of the wood, but emphasizes it. Before varnishing, completely remove the old varnish and sand the surface thoroughly. You cannot do this manually, you need a grinding tool.

Most suitable oil based varnishes. They not only give the furniture a new look, but also form a very durable waterproof coating.

True, they dry for quite a long time, at least 12 hours. Shellac will dry in 1-2 hours. It also looks original, although not as durable when dry.

You need to apply varnish with a brush or sponge in 3-4 layers. Each previous layer must dry completely.

Among the varieties of varnish there is craquelure. It gives the furniture an aged look, since when it dries, small cracks are formed that cover the entire surface. Apply craquelure varnish after painting the furniture.

Decoupage

Decoupage technique is suitable for decorating countertops or doors. He needs special paper with a pattern, which is sold in decor stores, or ordinary paper napkins with a favorite image, or newspaper clippings.

Master class with a description of restoration using decoupage technique:

Sand a wooden canvas;
Degrease the surface with alcohol;
Apply a coat of primer and let it dry completely, apply 2 more coats;
Paint with a background shade and dry the surface;
Tear off the napkin carefully along the contour of the drawing;
Lightly moisten a napkin with a pattern with water and attach it in the right place;
Blot the napkin with decoupage glue using a brush, slightly going beyond its edges;
After the glue has dried, apply clear varnish.

Restoration with wallpaper

With the help of wallpaper, they decorate the facades of cabinets, furniture walls, cabinet doors. Wallpaper should be different from those that are used on the walls, but have general shades and style. They can be brighter than the walls. If there are patterned wallpapers on the walls, then plain ones are used for pasting furniture.

It is convenient to use self-adhesive wallpaper. If you take ordinary paper ones, then it is better to glue them on PVA glue. The process itself is very simple.

The surface to be glued is determined. The necessary pieces are cut out of the wallpaper canvas. The surface is degreased with alcohol, then the desired piece is greased with glue and applied to the desired area. It remains to iron it with a roller and remove excess glue protruding along the edges.

If you need more detailed instructions on how to restore furniture at home in one way or another, you can always find it on the net.

Photo of the process of furniture restoration with your own hands

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is not only fun. And not so much. One of the main principles of the ideology of the consumer society is expressed very simply: 1.7-2.5 warranty periods, and go to the landfill. Turnover, employment. Oh yes, ecology. That is, not a landfill, but recycling. With some more turnover and employment. And to the ordinary consumer, for whose sake everything seems to be spinning - buy, buy, buy! No money - get credit, get credit, get credit! From 1/3 to 3/4, according to various estimates, the intellectual potential of developers in the world is working tirelessly so that the thing, boss forbid, does not last too long. And this also applies to furniture.

The old furniture makers worked knowing that the thing is bought for generations. Their aesthetics and artistic taste have been perfected over the centuries and therefore organically take into themselves the trends of modernity. That is why old furniture is growing rapidly in price. Refreshing old furniture isn't just about saving you a lot of money and adding sophistication to your home. The connection of times is firmly held in furniture, and in the relations of people surrounded by revived furniture, psychologists note an order of magnitude less problems than those who like to update regularly.

About the soul of the master

Each master puts a piece of his soul into his products - this is not a metaphor. With the form, texture, relief, pattern of his products, an intelligent master says something, and expresses something. He is not beech and not rigorous; today he would find a worthy use for decoupage, and acrylic with silicone, and graffiti from a spray can. But, before you start updating furniture with decoration, ask yourself: how much do you understand this language? What did he want to say? Would your addition to this be appropriate?

Attention - time!

First of all, you need to figure out whether antiques have come to you? Then - WE DO NOT DO ANYTHING BEFORE HIS EVALUATION. Museums and collectors entrust the restoration only to trusted masters, and any amateur activity of amateurs reduces the cost of a thing tens, hundreds of times, down to zero.

How to determine, without spoiling the object, antique furniture or not? On three grounds: brand, angles, fastener sizes. It is very important: you need to remove the fasteners with a slotted screwdriver, not too narrow or wide, with an even sting, but with slightly licked corners. It additionally needs to be wrapped with aluminum foil so as not to scratch the patina on the metal, this also sharply reduces the value.

First of all, we take out all the boxes and inspect their corners. Roundness without scoring is a sign of antiquity. Now we are looking for brands.

The brand must be looked for on the back wall, underside of the countertop and the bottom. Dust and cobwebs are carefully removed with a soft brush or vacuum cleaner. If you can see at least a piece of the old brand, move on. We also check the boxes - there are stamps on their bottoms, and they coincide with the main one - we're lucky, you can already call an appraiser.

Fasteners - screws, screws, corners - we carefully examine. The thread is non-standard, the step and the profile are floating - it means that it is old; cut by hand or on a primitive machine with a foot or bow drive.

We also measure the diameters of the screw bodies and the thickness of the metal of the corners with a barbell. The machine-made fasteners will be one-to-one, and the old, hand-made ones are unlikely to be maintained with an accuracy higher than 0.2-0.25 mm.

Attention - two!

An incident from life - a grandmother died; decided to get rid of her old furniture set. Obviously not antique, Soviet, from fiberboard. The owner thought: there was no self-adhesive then? What, then, is this furniture veneered with? Cleaned the piece as described below. It turned out - outside the most valuable veneer of Karelian birch, and inside - also very valuable "white Cuban cedar", albinia, from which humidors, cigar boxes are made.

Then the furniture was disassembled into layers (boards), the varnish was removed with a CM-1 remover. Then, heating with a household hairdryer, suspended with a wide spatula, without breathing, they separated the veneer sheets. The remnants of the glue were perfectly removed by the same CM-1. After that, the veneer was sprayed from a spray bottle and dried under oppression, laying a pure white dense toilet paper.

Then three months were spent in search of a direct bona fide buyer: as it turned out, around old furniture dealers swarming like flies in the slaughterhouse. But! As a result, the amount received only for veneer was more than enough for a complete new furnishing of the apartment.

Renovation and restoration

Complete renovation of furniture with renewal and new decor includes the following steps:

Acclimatization;
Disassembly;
Cleaning and washing;
Surface revision;
Elimination of varnish defects or its remover, depending on its condition and further intentions;
Elimination of wood defects;
Bulkhead and reinforcement of fasteners;
Veneering;
Painting and priming of wood;
Painting and / or painting the surface of the tree;
Surface decoration;
Aging;
Protective varnishing;
Polishing;
Tightening of seats, pillows, armrests, if upholstered furniture is being repaired;
Assembly.

Note: upholstery and other soft furnishings are classified as surface decoration.

All of these works may well be done at home. But before describing the work operations, we will give a summary of the tools and materials, so as not to be scattered and distracted in the future.

What about the table?

The stumbling block in the restoration of the table is not the countertop at all, as it might seem: it is easily washed and cleaned with the compounds described below. The main problem is the bottom of the legs, they are both dirty and battered and wet the most. This will require removing the veneer, treating the wood, restoring the shape of the legs with liquid wood and reliably strengthening their fastenings, this is one of the most loaded furniture units.

At the same time, the bottom of the legs is out of sight and minor flaws in the work will not be evident. Therefore, table restoration is the perfect start for an amateur furniture maker. Experienced craftsmen and give the tables to the students to work.

Tool

From the furniture tool you will need:

Drill with a set of wood drills.
A set of chisels from 4 to 40 mm.
End plane (picker, scherhebel).
Several clamps.
Mallet.
Joiner's hammer with a nail clipper.
Embossing hammer (with spherical butt).
A set of flat and Phillips screwdrivers.
Manual and jigsaws; you can get by with one manual.
Bow saw or hacksaw for metal - for a clean hand cut wood.
Assembly knife.
Shoe knife-joint.
Locksmith ruler and square.
Iron and household hair dryer.
Pliers, large or medium and small.
Round nose pliers.
Furniture stapler and staples 20-30 mm to it.
A smooth wooden block covered with felt or felt under an emery cloth or an abrasive mesh.
Double layer kitchen sponge.
File and rasp.
Scissors and sewing supplies.
A polisher is a piece of felt, cloth or rawhide.
Paste GOI.
Artistic brushes, round and flat. Columnar or squirrel - not necessarily, the simplest ones will go, from bovine ear bristles.

Blends and formulations

The restoration of old furniture assumes that all work is carried out according to the original technology. However, for yourself, if the furniture is not antiques for sale, it is quite possible to use modern, fairly well-tested materials. In particular, joinery glue is being successfully replaced by PVA; he is praised even by such fastidious as second-hand booksellers. For convinced retrogrades, we still give a diagram of a glue cooker, see fig .:, brewed on gas, high quality is not different.

It is also better to do the washing. detergents for dishes: them chemical reaction neutral. There is no doubt about the suitability of acrylic lacquer for furniture, especially since it can be polished with any car polish. Complex relief is washed with a soft natural hair toothbrush.

But with formulations containing organic solvents, you need to be careful. If they do not spoil the material, then they give a temporary effect: glossy surface soon dims again. Therefore, below we give recipes for different cases(which will be discussed below), tested by experience.

Note: if the composition contains ethyl alcohol, kerosene, vinegar, ammonia and other chemically active substances, then its effect must first be checked on some insignificant area - the end of the face and the inner coal.

Furniture wax (wax) different colors you can make it yourself from molten white beeswax by pouring melted crushed leads of colored pencils into it; colors can be mixed. In addition to the accurate selection of the tone, the method is also economical: the material is prepared in portions as needed. Another advantage is that using white lead as an additive, you can vary the consistency of the mixture over a wide range, while maintaining the tone.

Grout for cracks in varnish

Recipe 1- paraffin and colored furniture wax 1: 1. The composition, matched by tone, is rubbed into the cracks with a polish, until warming up from friction. The residues are removed with a lint-free (old and well-worn) rag moistened with kerosene or turpentine. Also suitable for grouting small cracks in wood.

Recipe 2, for small scratches - linseed or burdock oil and ethyl alcohol 1: 1. Apply with a swab made of white flannel or flannel; after drying, polish with a clean, dry cloth.

Stain removers and cleaners

For painted countertops - wipe with a solution first baking soda... After drying - cleaning from plaque with a dry cloth. Then - rubbing with an aqueous solution of ammonia (2 tsp per liter of warm water).

The varnishing is cleaned with a swab soaked in a solution of dishwashing detergent, and then wiping with a swab soaked in clean water. For heavily soiled surfaces, after wiping with detergent, wait 1-2 hours, covering the surface with a slightly damp cloth. If after cleaning the surface turns out to be dull, rub it with a swab, barely moistened vegetable oil.

For surfaces captured and covered with kitchen fumes - rub with talcum powder, brush it off with a rag. Then wash with warm water and ammonia as above. The second way is to wipe it with a rough cloth soaked in hot beer. And a method that is completely safe for any polishing is wet, sleeping tea wrapped in a clean cloth. Wipe the surface with a swab until cleaning, and then wipe it clean with a dry cloth.

For whitewash spray and water-based paint- 2-3 drops of olive oil in a glass of wine vinegar. Wash off with light movements of the tampon soaked in the mixture.

For white spots from water - sprinkle the spot with flour, and then wipe it until it disappears with a swab, barely moistened with olive, palm, corn or refined sunflower oil. Polished with velvet.

For white spots from hot - rub in a 1: 1 mixture of paraffin with wax of the desired tone, cover with a blotter and iron with an iron. Polished with a cloth or felt. If the varnish is not burnt deep, does not swell, does not acquire a noticeable graininess, then sprinkle the stain table salt, 3-5 drops of vegetable oil are dripped on it and kept for 2-3 hours. Then the mixture is brushed off and rubbed with a cloth in a circular motion until the stain disappears. Finally, dissolving a piece of colored wax in boiling beer, rub the hot mixture with a cloth until the tone is restored.

Wood cleaners

The wood of most species is well cleaned from the surface with a mixture: olive or linseed oil, denatured alcohol (namely denatured alcohol!), Turpentine and clarified lemon juice in equal proportions. Oak can be cleaned well with hot beer.

Notes:

There are many recipes for surface wood cleaners. It is important to know that any of these with vinegar will spoil the mahogany immediately.

An effective tool for cleaning wood and masking small defects - rubbing with a green peel walnut... The resistance of wood to rot and pests also increases due to the saturation of the surface layer with tannin. But the peel strongly tints the wood, so that the treatment of individual areas is almost never possible.

Wicker, cane and rattan furniture is washed and cleaned with warm water and ammonia. Convenient for this is a flute brush made of second-hand natural hair, i.e. soft, or soft toothbrush, but also made of natural bristles.

Polishes

The polish fills lacquer microcracks and wood pores, so the furniture surface remains glossy and solid wood is protected from damage. The most common polishes are based on wax and solvent: alcohol, turpentine, household (non-fuel) gasoline. Automotive polishes are suitable for lacquered furniture. The shelf life of polishes is limited, so here are two recipes for self-preparation in small portions.

Recipe 3: beeswax (can be colored) - 40% by weight; gasoline or turpentine - 60%. You need to measure the ingredients by weight, not by volume!

Recipe 4: ceresin (somewhat worse - paraffin, not stearin) - 55%; pine rosin - 5%; gasoline - 40%

Both compounds need to be rubbed into furniture, and they require regular use: if you quit regular maintenance, the furniture will tarnish for several months. Therefore, we present two more recipes without organic solvents, suitable for both varnish and open wood. With these compositions, furniture can be simply sprayed with a spray bottle or applied with a clean cloth without rubbing, and no special regularity of maintenance is required. But the surface of the furniture must be clean, otherwise the dirt will stick deep into it.

Recipe 5, for old, dry wood: a quarter glass of olive or palm oil and 2 tbsp. l. tablespoons of clarified lemon juice. For the scent, you can add 2-10 drops essential oil(coniferous, citrus, etc.) or perfumery fragrances.

Recipe 6 ,for fresh wood susceptible to dirt: a quarter glass of clarified lemon juice and 1 tsp. olive oil. It is undesirable to add fragrances, they can react with active components of young wood.

Paints

Painting of furniture with a dense layer is done with oil paints or acrylic enamels. Nitro-, glyphthalic and pentaphthalic paints are of little use for home furniture: they penetrate very deeply into wood, paint consumption is high, and its complete removal is impossible. But for the dacha and garden furniture this disadvantage may turn out to be an advantage. Under oil paint, the surface is primed with linseed oil, and under acrylic paint - with a water-polymer emulsion.

For painting with emphasizing the texture of the tree, stains and stains are used. Stains are available in all colors of the rainbow and penetrate the wood shallowly, by 0.3-0.5 mm, so that then the painted layer can be removed with sandpaper. But staining looks somewhat unnatural; it can be seen that it is dyed.

The stains penetrate a few mm into the wood and give the natural look of the stained wood. coloring is achieved due to the interaction of the mordant with the tanning agents contained in the wood. Therefore, not every tree can be painted with mordants, but only those containing tangible quantities of tannin. From domestic breeds - oak perfectly perceives mordant, and with birch it is better not to try. With any others - you need a test painting of a small area, because the content of tanning agents depends on the aging time of the wood.

Furniture fabrics

Facial

Do-it-yourself upholstering of furniture requires a particularly careful choice of fabric. It's not about its appearance, traditional jacquard, tapestry, velor, flock, courtesan and chinilla will do; dress fabrics are absolutely unsuitable - they do not stretch well, they will quickly wipe. The point is the drawing - a beginner furniture maker can only recommend a small, not very contrasting one.

Firstly, the pattern on the seat and back must be consistent - a strip that has left to the side or shifted halves of a flower will immediately ruin the whole look. You will have to buy an expensive fabric with a 15-20% margin for matching the pattern, and there is no guarantee that after completing the work, you will not have to understand that all the upholstery needs to be changed.

This difficulty can still be circumvented by using the complementary fabric method. For example, if the upholstery of the back of the chair is green jacquard with large leaves, then on the seat you can put a velor of a similar tone or tapestry with a flowing pattern. Say, there is grass below, and above there are leaves.

However, it is not for nothing that the hauling of furniture is called so: you cannot do without pulling the fabric. And then the drawing will stretch, and in a large drawing, the distortion of the contours will be oh-oh-very noticeable. Upholstering furniture with pattern matching is a delicate art, and even the famous masters did not immediately succeed. Therefore, it is better to make the first furniture pancake with a small dull pattern or even a plain one.

Purl and lining

Linen canvas or jute burlap are used on the seamy side, lining of furniture upholstery. Synthetics, sisal, etc. slippery fabrics are completely unsuitable: the upholstery on them will soon go, and to cover the sofa is not to fix the coat. The hemp is also not good: although it is rough, it quickly wears out and at the same time becomes dusty.

About seams

Sewing work can be dispensed with only when upholstering a simple chair, and even then an insert into the seat or back may be required. Chain stitches that give the most sewing machines, they are not suitable for furniture: as soon as the abrasion of such a seam reaches a certain degree, it dissolves by itself.

Furniture upholstery is sewn with sail seams, but machines designed for them with a pneumatic or electric rapier thread transfer mechanism are expensive. However, the simplest sail seam, the diagram of which is shown in the figure, is easy to lead by hand. If sewing with a coarse thread or dratva, the loop is pulled out onto the face with a thin steel crochet hook. For hand sewing with a thin thread, a sewing machine needle in any suitable frame is suitable; then the loop is left inside out. In any case, the second running end of the thread is threaded into a regular needle and threaded into the loop.

Each stitch is pulled up alternately from the face and from the inside out, so that the thread goes into the fabric, and the overlap is in its thickness. If the thread is over, its ends are tied from the inside with a straight knot, and the continuation of the seam is carried out with an interception of 2-3 stitches.

Note: the famous denim figure eight - the most complex and perfect of the sail seams. Levi Strauss, having thought of sewing work trousers from Genoese (Jenuis) canvas, which was at least heaped on the market in the era when sailing ships were replaced by steamers, borrowed a seam from sailors. So, if you have a typewriter with an eight - good luck!

Foam rubber and synthetic winterizer

The stuffing of furniture with horsehair is almost never done, even for an exclusive; batting and felt are also becoming obsolete - modern synthetic materials surpass them in all respects. If they are of the proper quality, of course.

Foam rubber is divided into grades by density (it is the specific weight in kg / cubic meter), indicated by two numbers: 20, 35, 45, etc. Elasticity also depends on the brand, which is important for stuffing. They check the quality of the foam rubber by squeezing it to the limit with your fingers: a suitable one, if released, immediately shoots back to level, and a bad one gradually straightens out, and a dent may remain. By the way, foam rubber that is not suitable for furniture can be an excellent insulation or filter.

Furniture synthetic winterizer should be pure white and solid, firstly. The patchwork color is most likely made from waste; possibly toxic. Secondly, the padding mat should be strong enough, not to creep when pulled by hands with little effort, both along and across the fibers.

Getting Started

About plywood

Some alterations may be necessary for the base of the chairs' seats, the bottoms and sides of the drawers. Furniture makers have been using plywood for these parts since it appeared, and for good reason: for parts that are not decorative, but loaded, plywood is indispensable.

Old plywood often turns out to be delaminated, and then there is a temptation: for the sake of "authenticity" to replace it with a board. For bottoms - not necessary. They are out of sight, and modern plywood of the FB, FK, FSF or BS brands will withstand more and last longer than an array of the most durable types of wood of the same thickness. Well, the sides of the boxes are a different matter. They are visible, are lightly loaded, and for the sake of decorativeness, they can be made planks.

Liquid tree

To seal wide gaps and potholes, you will have to use liquid wood. The best is homemade acrylic: 1 part resin with hardener 3-4 parts sawdust. Sifted and sorted sawdust in a variety of shades and grades are sold in hardware stores.

Liquid wood on epoxy changes the tone of the wood and becomes very fragile over time. As for the very cheap and easy-to-use silicate (on liquid glass) liquid wood, it is only good enough to quickly patch it up: liquid glass is a well-known silicate glue, fragile and not waterproof.

Acclimatization

The furniture delivered to the place of work must be kept in the new microclimate for 3-4 days, or better - a week, otherwise it may begin to crack and warp right during work. On the second day, you need to remove and fold all the boxes separately. Indoor temperature - 18-24 degrees; humidity - up to 75%. Direct sun rays or streams warm air should not fall on furniture.

Disassembly

Note: decorative upholstered furniture is often very valuable, especially if the original wallpaper nails have been preserved. Therefore, it must be removed first of all and very carefully. It is highly advisable to consult with an antique furniture dealer about its further fate and methods of cleaning.

Screws and screws

Threaded connections are disassembled as usual: with screwdrivers, keys, pliers. The main condition is no emphasis on wood. If the screwdriver still strives to slip out or the screw turns, take a closer look at where and how to hold his body with pliers, platypuses or round-nose pliers. If you have completely sat down, you need to let a drop or two of spindles or watch oil, wait half an hour or an hour and try again. In general, patience and ingenuity.

If, together with the screw, a screwed-in threaded socket crawled out of the cracked wood under it, it does not matter, then we will tell you how to put it in place later so that it is stronger than the new one. And do not rush to bite or saw the screw: drip brake fluid or kerosene, clamp the head with small pliers, the socket with large ones, and with a sharp jerk of two hands in different directions, tear off the seized thread.

Nails

First of all, inspect the back of the connection. If the nail is bent, pry it off with a flat screwdriver, bend it with pliers and hit it on the edge with a hammer so that the head pops out. Has become attached - a spindle or machine oil. A hat appeared - carefully pull it with pliers; The nail-rider will remember the tree. When pulling out, you need to grab wallpaper nails under the cap by the rod, otherwise the decorative cap may break off.

If the nail is hammered in, then we try to shake and pull the parts fastened by it, so that, again, the cap pops out. Here again oil will help. Suddenly the hat goes into the tree - attention, stop! We carefully drill it out, remove the upper part from the rod, and pull out the rod itself with oil.

Glue

All old wood glues are alcohol soluble. To separate the glue joint, drip it along the contour with alcohol every 2-3 cm and cover or wrap it with foil or parchment paper. After 10-30 minutes. you can try to separate, or repeat the procedure. Especially carefully you need to remove the wooden decor: it dries up most of all.

For separating glued joints, an assembly knife with a segmented blade is very convenient: if you press too hard, the segment breaks off, but the tree remains intact, and a very thin blade can be pushed into almost any gap. The bottoms, glued into the grooves, are little by little, from the end, pry off with a narrow chisel.

Lugs

Countersunk joints on blind wooden bosses - dowels, in a nautical way - are simple, wedged or glued. Simple and easy to separate. Glued is dug in with alcohol, and the parts are slowly pulled apart. If the dowel is wedged, the parts will disperse slightly at first, but will not go further. Then you just need to saw the dowel with a jigsaw or cut it with the same assembly knife. How to plant new pins will be described below.

Mustache and thorns

Connections on a mustache and a thorn, if they are not completely dry, it is better to leave it as it is, having smeared the grooves with liquid wood. If you need to disassemble the connection with a mustache, first we look to see if it is supported by a nail or a dowel. The nail is pulled out, the nail is drilled out or sawn through. The dovetail spike is pulled apart, unfolding the parts like a book. Glued joints are soaked with alcohol as described.

Cleaning

We remove the cobweb and dust with a vacuum cleaner; brush off the remains with a soft brush. We vacuum the cloth upholstery and go over it with a new shoe brush wrapped in cotton cloth. There is no need to tear and throw away: we need a template for a new upholstery. In addition, the old one after washing and dry cleaning may well return to its place and serve for a long time, and new furniture fabrics are expensive. If we are restoring furniture, then, you see, its upholstery will be valuable: with hand embroidery, tapestry, etc.

Doors, plates and internal parts are washed with a swab dipped in a solution of dishwashing detergent, laying them in a horizontal position. Then we also wipe with a swab with warm water and wipe dry with a paper towel or toilet paper. Old dirt will not come off immediately, so the detergent should not be washed off immediately, but after 5-20 minutes, and the procedure must be repeated until clean varnish or wood.

Revision, cleaning, washing

The next step is to inspect the surface. It may well turn out that after removing minor defects (stains, cracks) and cleaning the wood with the compositions described above, new polishing and varnishing will not be needed: traditional technologies were designed for centuries. This will facilitate the work, reduce costs, but, on the contrary, add the value of furniture. But in this case, you will have to be especially careful at further stages so as not to spoil the original coating.

Advice: If the furniture is not varnished and after all the cleaning procedures the wood looks dirty, try waxing it with beer wax, like oak.

If the varnish is not good for anything and needs to be washed off, then it is better to do this with non-toxic surface-active (surfactant) washes such as CM-1 or CM-2. The best way is with a liquid wash in a horizontal position: a grid is scratched on the coating with a step of 20-30 mm and a wash is applied. Ordinary varnishes are removed in a layer immediately, for acrylic you need to give an exposure for half an hour, covering the part with a film. Remove the varnish with a spatula with blunted smooth corners so as not to scratch the wood. The procedure can be repeated. Gel washes are suitable for vertical use, but are more expensive and less uniform.

Note: cleaning the tree with sandpaper on a wooden block should be postponed for an emergency - and the tree is eaten, and there will be no mirror-even surface.

Wood defects

Most of the wood defects found on a clean surface can be eliminated with your own hands:

Small cracks are rubbed with colored wax after steaming.
Chips and dents are filled with liquid wood.
Traces of rot and pest activity are scraped out with a chisel, and filled with liquid wood.

The purpose of steaming is to soften and warm up the wood, then the grout will saturate it properly; small cracks can converge and stick together by themselves. A household steam generator such as the Vaporone is ideal for steaming, but it costs a lot and for something else, no matter how advertised, it is not very suitable.

At home, it is not bad to steam with an ordinary kettle with a tight lid on an electric stove. A little water is poured into it so that it does not close the drain holes inside, and a hose made of heat-resistant rubber or medical silicone, also heat-resistant, is pulled over the spout. After steaming, the area to be treated is dried with a household hairdryer and rubbed with wax while it is still warm. The remains of the wax are removed with a swab dipped in turpentine.

"Herbs" based on copper sulfate, biocides of the old days, are toxic and spoil the tree. Now available for sale wide choose biological products against rot, mold, bugs and complex. Most of them are used once, but first you should check the degree of damage to the wood with an awl: several holes with a pinhead on the surface can lead into a whole labyrinth of woodcutter's passages, because of which the board can be pierced with a finger.

About old veneer

Before tackling the fasteners, you need to determine whether the old plywood is of value and, if so, remove it. The removal and alignment procedure is described at the beginning of the article.

Mountings

Reinforcement of fasteners is most often reduced to drilling existing nests or holes from old fasteners, and then to installing new dowels from solid resistant wood (oak, boxwood, dogwood, acacia, mountain ash) on PVA glue - it is pre-buried in a hole - and wedges , see fig. Such a dowel will sit tightly for many decades, it is only necessary that the wedge is oriented across the fibers of the base, see fig. on right.

Note: if the nest at the end of the face is broken, and the board is split, the chips are coated with PVA, the face is squeezed with a clamp through the plywood gaskets, and only after complete drying is the dowel placed.

If the dowel is a lug, then it is left protruding, and a response wedge is baited before assembly; wedges also make them from hard wood or fiberglass, 0.5-1 mm. If the dowel goes under a self-tapping screw or a screw socket, then it is cut off flush and passed with a scherhebel.

It is better to drill holes for self-tapping screws and sockets right away. Under the nests - by the diameter of their bodies and depth by height. For self-tapping screws - with a diameter of 2/3 of the body of a self-tapping screw without a thread and a depth of 2/3 of the length of its threaded part.

Note: this method of strengthening the fastenings is also suitable for Viennese chairs and other openwork structures, but without wedging - you will have to take very small pins.

Completely dry mustache and thorns (except for the dovetail) are glued with gaskets made of thin plywood or veneer on PVA. Bonding technology - common for wood:

The parts are impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion and dried with a hairdryer for 10-20 minutes.
Both surfaces are lubricated with PVA and allowed to dry for a day or two, until completely dry.
PVA is applied to one of the surfaces, dried until tack-free (usually 10-25 minutes).
The surfaces are folded and compressed with a clamp or oppression; wedges are driven into the grooves of the spikes and mustaches, laying polyethylene so that they do not stick.
Dry for a day, and you're done.

Veneering

High-quality veneering is made in two layers: the underside is made of rotary cut veneer of commercial wood and the face is made of sliced veneer of valuable species. Unfortunately, when the veneer is peeled off, both layers tend to come together, and they have to be separated, and for this you need to remove the veneer from the entire surface and veneer it again.

The old glue is removed with a surfactant remover, but gluing has some peculiarities:

After applying a sheet of underside for final gluing, step 4 in the previous one. the list, they immediately iron out the bubbles with a hot stamping hammer: large and elongated with a striker, and small rounded ones - with a butt.
Smoothed at 45 degrees with respect to the veneer grain herringbone, i. E. alternately in different directions.
As soon as the bubbles subside, the entire surface is ironed with a hot iron.
The layer is covered with polyethylene, a sheet of thick, even plywood is applied and dried for at least 3-4 days under heavy pressure.
If, after drying, bubbles are found, a PVA emulsion is injected into them with a syringe and smoothing is repeated.
The front sheet is glued in the same way.

Note: ironing cold is pointless - the essence of ironing is not about accelerating the drying of the glue, but about softening the wood.

Priming and painting

Under oil paints and varnishes are primed with linseed oil heated to 60-70 degrees in a water bath. For other paints and varnishes - it or a water-polymer emulsion at room temperature. No primer is required for waxing (see below); a primer for Khokhloma painting is described acc. section.

Painting to emphasize the texture of the tree is done with stain or mordant; both - according to the manufacturer's instructions. Aniline stains are diluted in water at 70-80 degrees. For brightness, a few drops of alcohol are introduced into the ready-to-use solution.

Video: washing and painting an old chair

Painting and painting

Painting and artistic painting of furniture are made with oil, gouache or aniline paints according to the appropriate technology and on the primer described above. It should be noted that gouache and aniline will not give a dense layer on the wood, like stain; they are most often applied to a background of oil or glue paint.

Any of the traditional Russian techniques is suitable for furniture: Khokhloma, Gorodets, Polkhov-Maidan. Of course, the plots are not at all necessary to take the primordial mythological; these techniques give a long lasting finish that is suitable for varnishing. However, Khokhloma, the most perfect and refined (see fig), is written especially:

The layer is covered with a very liquid mixed fatty clay.
Abundantly primed with hot linseed oil.
Rub in the background - bronze, aluminum powder or whitewash.
Painted with oil or egg paints
The dried painting is covered with linseed oil.
The painting is baked at 110-120 degrees, until the drying oil is golden.

Decor and aging

Surface decoration of furniture, in addition to artistic painting, includes the following main varieties:

Waxing.
Decorative upholstery.
Wooden inlay.
Wood carving.
Applications.

We will not talk about carving, it is a separate and complex subject. Let's analyze what is possible for a beginner at home.

Waxing

Regular waxing of exposed wood gives it a very sophisticated look. Produced in a wide range of wax mastics for furniture; any varnish with wax described above is also suitable for this purpose. But you need to wax it regularly, otherwise the furniture will soon tarnish, and it will be difficult to restore the softness and warmth of the surface tone.

Decorative upholstery

Nowadays, furniture is not upholstered with damask or tapestries: they get dusty, get dirty, and require careful maintenance. But now there is such wonderful material as linkrusta, invented by the author of linoleum Frederick Walton.

Linkrusta is a soft, lightweight linoleum that is not suitable for flooring, but adheres to vertical surfaces. Linkrusta is produced in rolls white with embossed patterns, up to multi-figure art scenes. Linkrusta adheres firmly to the glue, and the paint adheres perfectly to it. Using the technique of patinating furniture (see below), you can get a finish that would not have been rejected in Versailles during the time of Louis XIV, see fig.

Inlay

Real wood inlay - intarsia - is not available for independent execution. But it can be successfully replaced by a mosaic made of wood - marquetry. They make marquetry like this:

On a sheet of paper on PVA from pieces of veneer, possibly tinted with stain, a drawing is collected in a MIRROR REFLECTION.
When the glue dries, the drawing is turned upside down with the paper and glued to the surface, like veneering.
The paper with a layer of glue is removed with a fine, 220-240 number, sandpaper on a block.
The entire marquetry is covered with a protective varnish.

Applications

The simplest and most affordable of wood-based applications is decoupage. There are many ready-made kits on sale, and the technique is simple: fragments of colored paper are glued onto a base with PVA or acrylic and then varnished.

Aging

Many people want to age their furniture. There are two main ways: craquelure and patina. Patinating furniture is not at all creating an artificial patina on metal; it is used not only for aging, but also for surface decoration in the Provencal style, see fig. on right. You need to know that craquelure on patinated furniture is hardly ever appropriate: patinated most often under metal, and who has ever seen bronze or silver in a mesh of small cracks? But let's move on to the technique.

Craquelure

Craquelure on furniture is made with the same krake varnish as on painting or Venetian plaster. Krake is applied to the set, but still damp, giving a slight touch of paint. Freezing, the krake shrinks, pulls the still soft paint, and a network of small cracks forms on it. Craquelure can be coated with protective varnish.

Furniture patina

Patination of furniture is the sequential application of all shrinking layers of all lightening paint to it, in this way the oxidized worn metal is imitated. Each layer is shaded. For patination under bronze, first apply golden metallic acrylic paint, and on it - its own bronze or rub in bronze powder. Silver patinating, as in the linkrust illustration, can be done with aluminum and then zinc powder.

The main principle is that they patinate from the depressions on the bulges, because in reality the relief is erased along the tops. The technique is as follows:

A drop of paint of the first layer is taken on the corner of a flat brush, injected into the cavity and shaded roughly with the same brush.
When seized with a polish, velvet or cloth, shade cleanly towards the bulge, gradually reducing the tone to the background.
The second, and, if necessary, subsequent layers are also applied.

With outward simplicity, the technique of patinating furniture requires serious skill and a firm hand, so you need to master it gradually, training on various kinds of debris and waste.

Video: antique wood painting

Varnishing and polishing

Any furniture varnish is used for protective varnishing of furniture. It is better to cover aged furniture for a view with oil varnish, but it dries for a long time and requires regular maintenance with a polish with vegetable oil or wax with turpentine. Nevertheless, the best furniture varnish should be recognized as transparent or tinted acrylic: it is suitable for any surface, is extremely durable and resistant and requires virtually no maintenance.

Polishing of "old" types of varnishes is done with cloth, velvet or felt, but they rub the acrylic poorly, because of its strength. Acrylic coating polish with a leather polish (this is faster, but only smooth surfaces) or felt with GOI paste. Kerosene is dripped onto the polish until noticeably moistened, rubbed with GOI, and then the furniture is polished. The paste leaves a little: if the polishing has gone hard, but the GOI greens are still visible on the polish, they just drip more kerosene. Traces of GOI on furniture can be easily erased with a cloth slightly moistened with the same kerosene.

Upholstery

It is very, very difficult to upholster furniture, even with templates in the form of old upholstery at hand.... Therefore, we leave the upholstery for last, after all the woodwork. The second reason is that paint, varnish and varnish can get on the skin. You also need to start upholstery work from the simplest thing - from an upholstered chair.

Chairs

The upholstery of the seat and back of the chair rests on a plywood base. They are attached to the frame either with screws through the upholstery from the rear, or inserted into the slots on it. Repairing chairs most often comes down to replacing worn-out upholstery, and this is a great opportunity to get a handle on the upholstery business. The sequence of work is as follows:

We remove the old upholstery by prying the staples with a screwdriver.
We remove batting and old foam rubber; the canvas lining on the base is most likely still quite suitable, unless it is saturated with grease, then it can be removed and washed.
We cut out along the contour of the base with the release of 5-10% pieces of foam rubber of 35-40 grade (harder) 40 mm thick and 20-25 grade (softer) 20 mm thick.
We wrap the base with a canvas, fixing it on the underside with a stapler; fan the folds in the corners in one direction.
We put hard foam rubber on the canvas, and soft foam on it; can be fixed with a few drops of PVA.
Cut out a new one on the old upholstery with an allowance of 10-15%.
We fix the new upholstery on the sides with a stapler on the underside, 3-4 staples per side. On the sides, the upholstery is fixed crosswise with the hood, you need to make sure that the pattern does not float. Suddenly it skewed - we tear out the staples with a screwdriver and overtighten.
Form the corners by stretching the fabric, as shown in the figures, fix it with a stapler - you're done!

The backrest is pulled in the same way, but the foam rubber needs one layer of 20 mm and medium hardness, brands 25-30.

Video: example of upholstery of an old chair

Armchair

To drag the chair is already a more serious matter, you will need to work with the spring block and, if it is folding, with the mechanism. In addition to the backrest, the armrests will also need to be fitted.

But what if the upholstered surface borders on the polished one? It is from this border that you need to start the front upholstery: lay it out with the wrong side up, fix it with a stapler and turn it back onto your face so that the fold comes out. But let's not get ahead of ourselves.

Disassembly and mechanism

Dismantling the chair begins with the removal of the pillows; in the folding chair, after that, the mechanism will be visible, it needs to be photographed in order to assemble it correctly later. Then we remove the sidewalls, they can be pulled apart tightly. It is impossible to "tear" the sidewalls: the pins-sliders of the mechanism may break; can be pry on without much effort with a nail, pry bar or crowbar.

Spring block

After removing the old upholstery, you need to straighten the block frame; the sight of him being taken out of the chair, in which one can still sit, is sometimes simply amazing. Straighten with two pliers on the weight in several presses, avoiding unnecessary bending of the wire. Then the springs rule in the same way - their tops must form a single plane and not be skewed; most often the middle springs need to be straightened. Editing is easier to do without removing the block from the base; its bottom is very rarely deformed.

Note: You will have to completely remove the block if the felt lining under it is beaten by moths: this is her favorite nest. In this case, a new lining is made of synthetic felt or overcoat cloth in two layers.

Then the block is strapped and shrunk. At the factory, a new block is tied with a net or criss-cross straps, but at home, jute twine is best for this, see fig. Its branches in the centers of the springs are tied with straight knots and the block is seated at 1/5 of the height of the springs.

A uniform shrinkage of the old block can be achieved by using wallpaper nails or pushpins-fungi: they are not hammered to the end, but 2-3 turns of twine are thrown onto the rod. Pulling-loosening its branches and seat the block until smooth. But do not hammer nails / buttons into the end or underside - this will quickly rub the entire upholstery! Only at the top of the foundation!

After finishing the shrinkage, the nails / buttons are driven in until the edges of the caps are sunk into the wood, and the twine tails are cut off.

Sheathing

We start the trim from the seat. Having finished it (see below), put it in place and mark its outline with a marker on the back and sidewalls. What for? In order not to bring the soft lining under the front upholstery of the back and armrests to this line by 30-40 mm, otherwise the seat will not be pushed into place, and the chair will not be folded / assembled.

We put a cover on the block, canvas or burlap. The vertical corners will have to be cut from the inside out and stitched - the fabric drawing cannot be done here anymore. Sew with a sail seam - the upholstery works in concert with the block, and the whole chair will be distorted from the unfolded seam.

The next layer is a synthetic winterizer 10-20 mm thick along the contour of the seat with a release of 10%. Twine tying is also made on it, but it is pulled loosely, if only the twine cuts into the corners of the mat. Further - two layers of foam rubber, the same as on the chair, and front paneling with trimming and stitching of corners from the wrong side; face cutting is done as before with a margin of 10-15% for the hood.

The face is applied in two stages: first, without trimming and stitching the corners, it is pulled in place, temporarily fixing with buttons. Having achieved the correct fit, mark the lines of the corners with a tailor's chalk. Next, the cover is removed, trimmed and the corners are stitched from the inside out, turned inside out, put on and secured with a stapler.

This is the most painful part of the work for a beginner: the disgusting rag from the corners is leading and leading, so cutting corners must be done with a margin. It is even better to work in three stages: sew the corners without trimming, fasten it temporarily and trim it completely, only having achieved the correct fit.

The armrests are trimmed like the back of a chair; on top you can add soft foam rubber. But the back is sheathed in two ways: if it is spring-loaded, then like a chair seat, and if not, like a chair seat, with double foam rubber.

Video: a full cycle of repairing an old chair

Sofa

A sofa is an armchair stretched in width with a drawer, so the sofa repair has only two features:

The spring blocks of the pillows are first seated separately by 1/10 of the height, and then all together by another 1/10; accordingly, you will need two strapping.
It is better to additionally reinforce the box from the underside with two diagonal beams or metal corners.

Note- joke or seriously, who knows: suddenly it turns out that the old strapping of blocks and inner covers are made of whalebone (sort of like from strips of flexible plastic) - consider that you have removed the jackpot in the lottery or found a treasure. Hunting for whales has long been completely banned, and the smooth whales, from which this very mustache was caught, seems to have been completely knocked out. Therefore, incredible amounts are given for a whale whisker, unless, of course, the buyer is a crook.

Assembly

Assembling furniture, if you have already disassembled it without turning it into firewood, will not present any difficulties, especially if you guessed to photograph the disassembly in stages. Here are just four tips:

Save and reuse the old fasteners or completely replace them with new ones: the furniture on the fasteners does not hold up well afterwards.
Take self-tapping screws instead of screws phosphated (black), they hold well in the tree without landing on glue.
Replace Silumin threaded sockets for screws with modern brass or propylene ones with a metal insert.
Do not be alarmed if the chair or sofa unfolds / folds slightly with the new upholstery. "Pump" a few times - it will go, how cute.

Outcome

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is a difficult and painstaking task, but rewarding. After restoration, old furniture can serve for a very long time. It creates coziness, warm-hearted, friendly atmosphere in the house and acquires great value. Restoration of old furniture is feasible at home.

Video: furniture repair, hauling, do-it-yourself upholstery

Any furniture for the home, like everything else, is capable of undergoing wear and tear, deterioration of its original appearance and even collapse. In order to keep her functionality and attractive appearance, constant care is required, and in other cases, timely repair. Quality restored furniture can always be found in various museums and exhibitions.

This once again confirms that such furniture can be repaired, and it will look like new. Of course, if the furniture is severely damaged, then special equipment will be required for restoration.

But in some cases, the restoration of furniture with your own hands is also possible.

Surely, each of us will always have some kind of furniture that has long outlived its due date, but it's a pity to throw it away. But, if you use the old headset for a long time, then you can make a very effective decorative object that will stand out for its originality and exclusivity.

Furniture restoration tools

In order to put old furniture in order with your own hands, you need special tools.

You should be aware that the restorer needs not only ordinary carpentry tools, but also turning, locksmith and drilling devices. An experienced restorer, always has a convenient workshop, where everything is created the necessary conditions for repair.

Also, don't forget about measuring tools. It can be a tape measure, a carpenter's meter, a compass, an inside gauge, a thickness gauge, as well as metal and wooden squares.

For high-quality restoration of any wooden surfaces need to purchase a special abrasive wheel... It will be necessary for processing and sanding surfaces.

Thanks to this tool, you can effectively remove paint and varnish and smooth the edges of the treated furniture. In addition, it is advisable to get an abrasive wheel for processing metal surfaces.

For example, you will need it when you need to cut or remove old handles.

Using planing tools, you can prepare the desired piece of furniture if the previous one has become unusable. If you are going to deal with the restoration thoroughly, then you will need to drill and finish all the gaps in the wood. Then you can not do without a brace, hand and electric drills, drills and countersinks. In addition, you will need a hacksaw, a bow saw, knives, and veneer saws.

For cleaning all required surfaces, it is advisable to have a set of flat and semicircular chisels, carpentry chisels.

In addition to all of the above, you will also need various auxiliary tools: spanners, files, hammers, screwdrivers, rasps, protractor, nail puller and electric drill.

In order to secure all the surfaces to be treated, wedges, rope devices, and clamps will definitely come in handy.

To securely fix the restored elements, you should install a vice for cutting and cutting metal, as well as purchase metal hammers and scissors for metal.

Furniture restoration products

Furniture varnishes

As a rule, furniture made from expensive types of wood will definitely need special protection.

All surfaces of such a set can be protected with special furniture varnishes, which are polished after application. Furniture varnish is necessary in order to reliably protect furniture from all kinds of external influences.

Coating a wooden surface with varnish is a process where the utmost care is required. Each varnish can have its own method of application, however, a spray gun is most often used.

There are varnishes that can be applied with a swab or brush, by pouring. In addition, this varnish can be preheated. Remember that each varnish has its own characteristic viscosity.

In most cases, furniture varnish dries completely in 2 hours, at a temperature of about 20 degrees. It can form a heat-resistant, light-resistant, or water-resistant coating.

When choosing a varnish, you need to decide in advance for what tasks it will be intended.

For example, the entire surface of chairs or a table must be covered with a sufficiently durable varnish, since it is constantly exposed to external influences. For children's furniture, you must choose the varnish with great care. The varnish should not contain harsh chemical compounds, any odors and harmful substances.

Furniture oil

However, varnish is not the only way to protect wood flooring. A good option is a special oil that is subsequently waxed.

Both oils and oils with hard wax are commercially available. Oil is applied to the surface much easier and faster than varnish, and the surface itself can acquire increased wear resistance.

In addition, the surface can be easily damped frequently.

The oil can penetrate all the pores of the wood, and only the smallest amount will remain on the surface. Thanks to this, the wooden surface will be quite durable and durable. When the surface is treated with oil, a protective film does not form.

Shellac

Quite often, for the restoration of furniture with their own hands, a coating such as shellac is used.

Shellac is a natural coating that can give absolutely any furniture a bright and soft surface. Shellac can be ideal for restoring very old or antique furniture.

The composition has a natural amber color and can give a product a special warmth and depth.

Today, shellac is produced from the secretions of insects, the so-called varnish bugs, which live in India and Pakistan. Lacquer bugs sit on the branches of shrubs or trees and feed on their sap.

During digestion, the juice is processed into a unique resinous substance that is released to the outside.

Shellac is generally orange (amber) in color and is the best choice for enhancing the natural warmth of woody colors.

It is with this composition that most of the antique furniture is processed. If it is necessary to preserve the whiteness of the wood, then in this case a special bleached shellac is used.

Furniture restoration

It should be immediately reminded that only high-quality furniture can be restored.

If this is a Chinese chipboard, then it is not restored, but boldly thrown away. It is necessary to restore something that has served for a very long time and is capable of delighting its owners for many years to come. If the furniture is made with high quality, there is no need to "bury" it. If possible, be sure to extend her life.

If you have restored old furniture, then it will certainly ennoble your home. For example, Vacation home with such furniture has always been considered the standard of the classics, where a leisurely and measured life is conducted.

Remember that an antique chair or table, wardrobe or chest of drawers will always require only respect for yourself. Such furniture needs space in a small room, it will be very cramped. Give old furniture more space and new life.

As a rule, restoration can be of three levels of difficulty, and we will consider them in order.

The first degree of difficulty

1. The furniture has minor defects, abrasions and scratches.

If the "damage" is not too serious, then they can be painted over. Any artistic paint with a carefully selected color is suitable for this. The surface can be coated with a light coat of varnish or transparent nail polish. Of course, no one can promise durability, but that's enough for a couple of decades.

2. Deep cracks and scratches. For such troubles, you can use a special furniture wax. The wax can be either soft or colored.

In addition, the wax is divided into a transparent composition and a color shade. If transparent wax is used, then before that, the entire surface must be treated with enamel or colored varnish. In general, transparent wax is quite practical.

It is very cheap in cost and much more profitable.

3. Deep fossa from any impact or chipped surface. Such a defect can be attributed to cosmetic, but already quite serious. In these cases, wood putty will be required. It is necessary to choose the desired shade and smooth the damaged surface with a very thin layer.

Let the layer dry well, and then sandpaper it. After that, the surface is varnished.

The varnish layer is damaged. On furniture, from various blows, quite serious damage can form. You need to fill this place with transparent varnish and let it dry.

Second degree of difficulty

1. It is necessary to change the old hinges, fasteners, and replace the nails with self-tapping screws. Everything should be as reliable and durable as possible.

2. Removing old paint.

With a wide flute, you need to very carefully cover the entire surface with a paint remover. After about an hour, we remove all this "art" with a spatula. If small rusty fragments appear, then they need to be treated with a special solution.

If dead wood tissue has formed on the furniture, it will need to be cleaned with a wire brush. After that, the treated surfaces are thoroughly rinsed under running water.

Remember, water should not penetrate deep inside, only rinse and no more.

Furniture or its elements are best dried on outdoors(in the sun.). This can take about 2-3 days. Only after that, it is worth using wood putty. If you need to preserve the natural effect of antiquity, then we do not touch these places. If you need to close holes and openings from nails, then use a rubber trowel. You need to align in two layers and let each layer dry. After the second layer has dried, we process the surface with sandpaper.

Then we wipe it with a damp cloth. And after that, your furniture will be completely ready for painting.

3. Paint. It is advisable to pick up the paint in advance so as not to leave the furniture in this state. If the furniture is classic, then you can use some bed shades. It can be cream, peach, or coffee in color. Also, the ivory color looks original.

Black can also be used. Then, your furniture will look very impressive.

For painting very old furniture, popular acrylic is a great option. Acrylic, in addition to its practicality, will effectively keep the tree from possible destruction.

If you choose enamel, then alkyd is best. Of course, it dries longer, but this is a sign of quality. The paint itself can be used in a spray bottle or as a spray. You can use a sponge, thanks to which the paint penetrates much deeper.

Of course, you can use a regular brush, but make sure that all strokes fall evenly. For example, a wardrobe or shelving can be painted with a roller. However, if there are any protruding parts, then you cannot do without a sponge.

Do 2-3 layers and each layer must dry well.

Moving on to the varnish. The varnish can be matte, silky or glossy. To each his own. To cover the surface, it is best to use a spray, as it will be able to lie in an even thin and durable layer.

If you are going to use painting, then you need to decide on the style. Want Provence? then use a floral theme. If you want a country style, then apply a variety of stripes and squares. If you prefer ethnicity, then take Australian or African symbols.

To introduce a plant theme, use the double brushstroke technique. Draw large flowers and only then, move on to smaller flowers. Refresh your brush with paint as often as possible. It should not be completely dry, otherwise the smoothing and smooth transition effect will disappear.

Be sure to keep it even.

For country style, paper tape comes in handy. It will significantly speed up and simplify your work. Remember not to press the tape into the surface. Make the desired stencil from the scotch tape and lay it very carefully on the surface of the furniture. Keep an even coverage. For ethnostyle, all kinds of mosaic elements and contours are useful.

If you are modest and timid in your artistic endeavors, then you should resort to decoupage.

Purchase special three-layer napkins with original designs and use them to apply the design. Also, you will need a small jar of glue. Cut out the elements and remove the bottom two layers from the napkin. Cover the intended area with glue and attach the drawing. After all this is dry, use the same compound (varnish). And if you carefully trace the outline of the drawing, then everyone will take their word for it that this is handmade. After all the manipulations carried out, the surface must be varnished.

The third degree of difficulty

In principle, there is not much to say here.

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration will be quite difficult. If you need to replace the door, back or leg, then use the services of professionals. If you need to glue the parts, use epoxy glue.

You only need to prepare the glue according to the instructions. Carefully prepared surfaces are carefully lubricated with the prepared composition, then we maintain a short pause and squeeze strongly (tightly).

We restore old furniture with our own hands

We are waiting for a day, and you can use it.

Outcome

If restoration on your own does not save the situation, contact the real masters. Perhaps they will make a new part, and it will be much better than trying to "reanimate" the old one. But in any case, old (antique) furniture will still be useful to you, and your grandchildren will use it, remembering you with a kind word. After all, everything that we create with our own hands must live forever.

Furniture made from chipboard is one of the most common among consumers in this area.

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration

It is inexpensive and has good strength characteristics. For the production of furniture, refined laminated chipboard is most often used. This gives the furniture a complete look. However, like furniture made from other materials, chipboard products, over time, lose their attractive appearance.

Furniture items can be destroyed under an hour of transport, they could be improperly maintained. If there are children or animals in the house, then there is a high probability that damage will also appear on the surface of the laminated chipboard.

Scratches and chips, scuffs and dents may appear on chipboard furniture, cracks and deformations on the kitchen furniture. It is possible to restore the lost attractiveness. To do this, consider how to repair or update old chipboard furniture with your own hands using improvised means.

Basic materials

To repair old chipboard furniture, you will need:

a felt-tip pen for retouching (sometimes a regular one is used, in the color of the product);
hard colored wax and a device for melting it;
spatula, chisel;
felt-based fabric;
lacquer spray for fixing.

How to fix chips

To a large extent, chips form at the corners.

To restore such furniture, you must:

process the corners with a chisel;
melt the wax and seal the treated area;
after drying, cut off the excess and walk again with a chisel to level the surface;
sand the corners with a soft cloth;
retouching is applied with a felt-tip pen and immediately treats this place with a napkin to smooth out the shade;
the place sealed with wax, open with varnish.

Repair of furniture with scratches

The greatest number of scratches is found on furniture in children's rooms.

In this case, we proceed as follows:

melted wax is gently applied to the scratch and allowed to dry a little;
a scratch is covered with a felt-tip pen with retouch to update the texture;
the final stage is varnishing with a fixing varnish.

Shabby furniture repair

The restoration of scuffs most often occurs on kitchen furniture where humidity is high. And also often wiping off stains and crumbs leads to the formation of scuffs.

It is not difficult to update such old furniture with your own hands, for this:

take a microfiber cloth and apply a felt-tip pen that matches the color;
further, with this napkin, go over the shabby places and this should be done along the structural surface of the product;
after that, a fixing varnish is applied to the treated area.

Sealing cracks

Cracks often appear on old furniture, due to improper handling (sudden opening of doors in cabinets and pops), as well as if a chipboard product is used in a room with high humidity and is saturated with moisture, and then dries up.

The restoration of such products is as follows:

PVA glue is drawn into a syringe, after which a needle is put on it;
further, the glue is “driven” into the entire volume of the crack;
in order for the glue to "grab" it is necessary to use a clamp or other clamps, which must be used to grasp the place with a crack to tighten it;
blot the protruding glue with a napkin very carefully so that it does not spread over the surface;
the retainers are removed no earlier than in a day.

Using such simple techniques, you can easily update the furniture with your own hands at home.

It will cost less than refurbishing workshops or buying new products. The main thing is to prepare all the constituent materials and follow the phased implementation of the processes - let the adhesive components dry and securely fix the damaged areas with special means.

Do-it-yourself restoration of old antique furniture - video

Short description: You should not throw out the shabby furniture, perhaps it can still be given a second life.

Especially if the furniture available is antique. Using a nineteenth-century chair as an example, the master will show and comment step by step how the restoration of furniture is carried out.
Nowadays, when there are many different devices and special tools, and especially a gel capable of removing material that has blackened from time to time, it is not so difficult to repair furniture.

It is very important at the beginning of the work itself to thoroughly polish the surface of the chair, and sand it after the putty.

Furniture restoration: giving new life to old objects

Particular attention is paid to the soft upholstery of the chair.

Added: 2014-05-29

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Do you remember how every autumn at school you had to write an essay on the topic “How I spent my summer”?

How to restore old furniture at home

God only knows who was interested in our trips to the sea, weeding in my grandmother's garden and playing with a ball in the company of their own kind of idiots.

I don't know if my report will interest you, but out of an old school habit, I decided to write a short essay about how I spent the summer, or rather the most pleasant part of it - the vacation.

I already wrote about one of my summer activities - decoupage of a bag with Parisian motives.

And now I want to tell you about an equally useful and creative activity.

Restoration of old furniture using decoupage technique

I have one cabinet in my kitchen, old, old, from the 60s or even 50s. Solid, durable and very roomy. This is how this "shard of socialism" looked 13 years ago, when we got it from the previous owners:

In attempts to modernize "rare" furniture, this cabinet had to be repainted several times.

A few years ago, my husband and I made a radical change in its design, removing the top wall and cutting off the protruding corners of the sides.

And here is my locker on the eve of the next update: with self-adhesive wallpaper removed and places with a sanded surface.

And, of course, washed as thoroughly as possible in his old age.

To get started, I had to arm myself with a paint roller and paint and freshen up the cabinet surface. By the way, in addition to the post about materials at hand for decoupage: for toning white paint, I used the color "Snowball".

And when choosing a color in the store, I stocked up with several jars of different colors at once to use instead of artistic acrylic paints to create a background for decoupage bottles and other utensils, the surface of which has a fairly large area.

This results in significant savings.

Then I pasted over the cabinet with self-adhesive wallpaper. A ten-meter roll was enough for the entire outer surface and most of the inner surface. Self-adhesive was initially selected light and not too motley so that the pasted decoupage motifs were not lost and were clearly visible.

Perhaps you will not believe it, but the most difficult part of the restoration of an old kitchen cabinet turned out to be the selection of napkins for decoupage. I really wanted to decorate the cabinet with a picture of berries.

After all, all kinds of fruits are associated with wealth. And prosperity in the kitchen is a vital thing. But there were no suitable size "fruit" napkins. But there was a napkin with autumn maple leaves.

Oh, how sad it becomes in summer at the thought that soon hot days will be replaced by autumn leaf fall! But suddenly I remembered the song that Nikolai Karachentsov sang so sincerely:

It's time for the birds to go,
Birds dream of the south
Yellow maple leaf yesterday
He sat in my palm.
There is nothing like that here,
Yellow leaf like a bird yesterday
He sat in my palm.

Maple leaf, maple leaf
I dream about you in the middle of winter
Shakes snow outside the window.
The moment everything was covered with snow
And my soul is white and white,

Touch my tired age,
Giving quiet sleep
Return as a lost bird
In the cold of January.
Let someone tell me in response -
There is nothing like that here,
Return as a reckless bird
In the cold of January.

Maple leaf, maple leaf
I dream about you in the middle of winter
Dream at that moment when the blizzard
Shakes snow outside the window.
The moment everything was covered with snow
And my soul is white and white,
I dream about you, red maple leaf,
Dream, dream, red maple leaf.

Birds dream of the sea and the south,
Gold in the haze.
Yellow leaf trusting me
Suddenly sat in my palm
Let someone tell me in response,
Nothing like that here
Jumping off a branch of a yellow leaf,
Suddenly he sat in my palm.

And I thought: after all, someday winter will come.

And then the bright yellow-crimson maple leaves will surely warm the soul with the gentle warmth of early autumn. And with this thought, I cut out all the leaves from the napkin along the contour, stratified them and pasted the top paint layer with decoupage glue.

To fix the glued motifs, I covered the entire outer surface of the cabinet with three layers of high-gloss acrylic varnish.

This will make the cabinet much easier to clean. In addition, the varnish was gone quite a bit, since the self-adhesive prevented it from being absorbed.

It is quite difficult to capture the general view of the restored cabinet, photographing it in a not very spacious kitchen, and even from around the corner of the refrigerator.

But, I think, even in individual fragments, one can see a striking difference between the renovated furniture and its original state.

And let some of the inhabitants of the apartment pretend that the renovation of the kitchen furniture did not make any impression on them,

the cabinet now looks much better than it did before the restoration.

So thanks to the decoupage technique: it helped me out and allowed me to give old furniture a new appearance, and with it a new life at minimal material costs.

As you can see, sometimes even renovation can be creative, exciting and enjoyable.

And, I think, the logical conclusion of my summer report on the restoration of an old kitchen cabinet using decoupage technique with autumn motives will be a poetic video by Pyotr Linev with a wonderful song from the movie "A Little Favor":

Enjoy the restoration of old furniture with HobbyMama!

There are many apartments and private houses where furniture made from chipboard gradually takes on a non-marketable look. To put a wardrobe, chest of drawers or a table in order, it is not at all necessary to contact specialists or change things for new ones, if they are familiar and comfortable for the owners of the home.

High-quality furniture restoration is a laborious and slow process.

Old furniture can be restored using the tools at home. Additional materials and tools are purchased at any hardware store.

If the need arises, you can contact the specialists, or you can study all the subtleties and do it yourself.

Restoring the appearance of objects from chipboard is a low-cost process. In addition, it has a number of undeniable advantages:

no need to carry a cabinet or table to the workshop;
all tools are usually at hand;
you yourself track the progress of work and, if necessary, make adjustments.

When restoring, you do not use the help of expensive specialists, you can estimate the costs and labor yourself. The process develops everyday ingenuity, and sometimes unites fathers and children, if you involve the latter in working together.

Restoration methods

It is important to understand what kind of material you are dealing with. Pressed wood-resin mixture is the basis of the board. The easiest way to recover fresh look Chipboard - high-quality painting.

Naturally crushed material is mixed with synthetic resins and hot pressed.

Restoration of chipboard furniture by toning, varnishing and decorating allows you to renew the facade and interior surfaces of the furnishings. In this form, it will serve for a very long time. The main materials for restoration are paints, varnish, sandpaper.

Chipboard (particle board) is made from shavings of coniferous and deciduous trees.

The second, not too time-consuming method, is with the help of a sticky film of natural tones. No glue is required for it - its base is quite resistant, the film seizes and smoothes over the surface very well.

Materials and tools required for work

When working, you will need different materials. In order to disassemble old furniture, you need a screwdriver. Glue is needed only if the surface was previously coated and it came off. To clean the surface from unevenness, sandpaper and a spatula are required.

The plate produced in this way is resistant to aggressive environmental influences and has excellent sound and heat insulation properties.

A color update will require:

aerosols with paint;
hair dryer;
brushes;
rubber gloves.

Before starting the restoration, degrease the slab using a detergent.

Sometimes putties are used for wooden surfaces, since the wood mass can dry out - for further work, small cracks and crevices need to be repaired.

Such restoration of furniture will allow you to get rid of minor scratches and change the annoying shade.

Using varnish as a finishing coat, you can achieve a more effective look of the restored item, so its use will not be superfluous.

Materials may vary depending on the scope of work, vision of the end result and the method of restoration.

If there are significant defects on the surface, it is better to choose a different method.

If inserts from fabric, wallpaper, decoupage napkins, film are supposed, then scissors are needed.

To quickly dry painted surfaces, you will need a powerful hair dryer - it is better to use a construction one.

Particleboard is a specific material, and it needs to be painted using a special technique.

Restoration process: step by step instructions

Use the help of household members if they have restoration skills. Maybe they will tell you how to quickly restore the chipboard with your own hands.

Prepare the tools and necessary materials - everything should be within walking distance. Since the process is going to be laborious, it is better to carry out work on a weekend.

Disassemble the furniture before starting work.

Painting

Step 1. Carefully disassemble furniture with a screwdriver .

Step 2. Degrease the surface. Sand bumps and roughness with sandpaper and a spatula. Fill cracks and cavities if necessary. Let the boards dry.

Step 3. Apply tinting evenly (give preference to acrylic paint) onto the surface of the elements using an aerosol. If necessary - in 2-3 layers, taking breaks to dry them.

Step 4. Apply varnish and let it dry. Secure it with another layer.

The paint will lay evenly if there are no drafts in the room during the drying process.

If you decide to use another method - gluing the film, then the materials are taken at very inexpensive. No glue is used for this work - the reverse side of the film is sticky.

It is necessary to paint each element separately, this will allow you to more carefully work out all the joints and avoid the formation of streaks.

After drying, all facades must be wiped with a weak vinegar solution. This treatment will remove a thin film of grease that will interfere with the adhesion of the board and the self-adhesive film.

Step 1. See p. 1-2 painting instructions.

Step 2. Measure the exact amount of film. It is better to make a small allowance, as the axes can be uneven. Then it can be removed by carefully cutting it with a clerical knife.

Step 3. Smooth the glued area with force so that there are no air bubbles.

It is better to choose a film in a natural color - shades of wood, light or dark, depending on which one you like best. The advantage of the film is that it can be washed repeatedly - a high-quality coating does not lose color and does not form streaks.

If the furniture has been previously painted, you can remove the paint using special solvents or sandpaper. It will be more difficult to dismantle the coating if the facades are covered

Finishing the product - decoration

Old furniture can not only be renovated, but also decorated, giving it an original look. Drawings or ornament are used as unusual design elements. Use a stencil cut from thick paper or a file folder for an even print overlay. You need to apply the paint very carefully so as not to splatter the areas around the ornament. It is better to place it around the perimeter.

For furniture restoration to meet expectations, the coating must be applied carefully, avoiding gaps and streaks.

A large, dull pattern looks good in large central areas or below. From above it will "weigh down" visual space... You can also use a combination of contrasting colorful elements - monochromatic sides and decoupage parts with plant or thematic patterns.

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is almost complete, it remains only to bring the new coating to perfection.

You can also decorate the chipboard with your own hands using self-adhesive film or fabric appliqués.

If the defect was found after drying, the problem area must be processed again with sandpaper and covered with an additional layer of paint.

Carved elements should be introduced into the overall design with care - the slab is very fragile. When carving, use a sharp bit and emery to clean the grooves. We recommend that you first make a sketch of the future ornament - this way you can evaluate the aesthetics of the future decor.

Often a solid and reliable table is sent to the dacha link only because its design is hopelessly outdated.

Use wallpaper or patterned fabric to freshen up your painted furniture even more. Such inserts look interesting on the facades of side tables and dressers. In this case, you need glue. The fabric you need to choose is waterproof, the thin one will quickly soak and will look sloppy. This method is suitable for updating furnishings in summer cottages, apartment kitchens, bedrooms and children's rooms.

But any furniture can be given a second chance, it is enough to modernize its appearance, and external restoration will help with this.

These materials can also be used to decorate internal planes - walls and shelves. This does not require much effort, and the result often exceeds expectations.

When using decorative elements to decorate large items, don't miss the opportunity to add the same stylish touch to the rest of the environment. For example, you can enhance the consonance of colors by covering the seats of old chairs with the same fabric that was used to decorate a wardrobe or table.

The main thing is to purchase quality materials, carefully study step by step diagram work and follow all recommendations.

To decorate objects made of chipboard, napkins in the Victorian or Provence style are often used. Pastoral elements perfectly refresh the interior, make it light and light.

Decorating is also carried out through the use of certain paints - gold, silver, copper. They add sophistication to the furniture. They can be complemented by a spectacular-looking craquelure. For this you need a special varnish. This method is great for classic interiors, where there is a lot of vintage furniture of an unusual shape.

The easiest way to update a cabinet or table is with a simple repainting.

Small mosaic inserts made of colored glass or plastic, glued to the facade, will give a wardrobe or bedside table a new look.

The main thing is to know what material to use and how exactly, and then the restoration of furniture with your own hands will be completed quickly and with excellent results.

Coffee tables look unusual with a "kaleidoscope" of newspaper clippings. Glue them to the countertop to make them motionless. Arrange them asymmetrically, while maintaining overall compositional harmony. Then cover with glass or secure with clear varnish in two layers.

Replacement of fittings can also add a new note to the appearance of furniture. Instead of simple handles, choose a bronze or silver embossed shape. Or paint them in a different color.

After all, what could be nicer than renovating and decorating your home without significant costs.

If the furniture has legs, you can use twine for them, securing it with glue.

An old mirror can be used as an insert in one of the cabinet doors. An oval shape will look better.

But changing your favorite table or wardrobe is not at all necessary, the restoration of furniture will help, and you can do it yourself.

Do not make the decor too colorful or flashy contrast. Colors should be harmoniously matched and not annoyed by excessive eclecticism.

How to decorate furniture that has lost its former appearance, you need to come up with in advance. There are a great many ideas, so anyone can make the unpresentable look of a wardrobe or table advantageous and stylish, even at home.

When selecting the right materials and studying master classes, the updated table or wardrobe will delight with its appearance for many years to come.

VIDEO: Restoration and decoration of an old Soviet-era kitchen CABINET

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration at home is an exciting and creative activity that allows you to give new life to your favorite objects. At the same time, self-restoration helps to save a lot, because the services of professional furniture makers can be so expensive that it will be easier to buy a new wardrobe, armchair or sofa.

It is worth contacting specialists only when you want to remove expensive furniture or valuable, antique interior items - here an independent restoration by an inexperienced craftsman can only do harm. You can also restore old furniture or the one that was bought in a regular furniture store with your own hands - below we will tell you about some of the tricks of this process.

Pros and cons of DIY furniture restoration

Before proceeding with the restoration of any piece of furniture, it is worth assessing the advantages and disadvantages of independent work. Let's figure it out - do you need to do it yourself, or entrust the restoration to a professional furniture maker?

Benefits of independent work:

Disadvantages of home restoration:

Advice! If you nevertheless decide to carry out restoration work in the apartment, allocate a separate room for this. All other furniture must either be taken out or covered with foil or sheets. The floor should be covered with newspapers to avoid permanent stains from spilled washes, varnish or paint.

What materials and tools are required

Of course, the exact set of tools will also depend on the piece of furniture you will be restoring. But there is a universal list of tools that come in handy during work. So, in many cases it is more convenient to use electric tool, and not manual, so it would be advisable to borrow such devices from friends or even rent them in advance.

Professional tools not only save time and effort, but also give better results. Those planning furniture restoration may need the following:

Advice! In addition to large tools, you will also need smaller accessories: brushes and rollers, spatulas of different sizes, sandpaper of different grain sizes. Do not forget to purchase protective durable gloves, as well as a respirator that will prevent poisonous vapors of varnishes and paints from entering the respiratory system.

In addition to tools for restoration, consumables are also needed - all kinds of removers for varnish surfaces, furniture wax, sealant or wood putty (compounds that fill cracks or chips), as well as paints and varnishes: enamels, paints, waxes or impregnations.

Note that finishing for furniture can be easily purchased at any store, but restoration accessories (special pencils, adhesives, furniture edgebands) are better to look for on specialized Internet sites.

In addition, on ad sites in your city, you can find a seller of the material you need - often people sell surplus or goods that are not suitable for them in color or texture.

Prices for water-based varnish for furniture

Water-based varnish for furniture

How long does it take for the restoration?

You can repair and restore furniture at home as much as necessary - small items can be handled in one day, larger projects can be restored for months. The term of work depends, among other things, on the materials used - each varnish, primer, putty or paint has a certain drying period, which must be waited out. If the layers are not allowed to dry, the final result will be unpredictable.

An important point! Read the instructions carefully before using all products, and follow them. Before applying the next layer, the previous one should dry for as long as the manufacturer recommends.

By the way, preliminary planning is needed for all stages of work and acquisitions. In order not to go to the hardware store several times, even at the initial stage you need to carefully consider what tools, devices and materials you will need - they need to be bought at once and kept close at hand. Then the process of restoration work will not take long.

Furniture restoration steps: sequence

Of course, as is the case with the necessary tools and materials, the sequence of actions may be different, but there is a mandatory work order that should be considered if you are dealing with furniture for the first time.

Video - Painting a tree with the effect of antiquity

Table # 1. Correct sequence of restoration work

Stage	Description
Disassembly of furniture, fittings	It will be much easier to work with furniture if you first disassemble it into separate elements. Usually they remove hinged doors, drawers, take out the shelves, if possible, unscrew the frame parts. A glue frame should not be disassembled unless you are sure you can then join the parts together properly. You also need to remove all the accessories - handles, hinges, locks. Before disassembling furniture, take photographs showing the attachment points - this will make it easier to assemble. The fittings, which are planned to be put in place, are best laid out in boxes or bags and signed.
Removing paintwork or other topcoats	Depending on the piece of furniture you are rebuilding, you can use one of three methods to remove the old coating: Sandpaper; - building hair dryer; - remover for varnish. The methods can be combined - the main thing is to achieve a flat, smooth surface. At this stage, be sure to use protective equipment against dust, varnish residues, and chemical compositions- wear a mask or respirator, glasses, gloves.
Elimination of various damages	With the help of specialized compounds and tools (putty, furniture wax, grout), you need to mask all defects - cracks, drops or irregularities, scratches and chips. The choice of material depends on the extent of the damage. So, it is better to fill deep cracks with wax, large worn areas - putty, scratches and chips - wipe.
Preparing for the finish coat	Before applying the finishing coat to the furniture, you need to level all surfaces again - remove excess grouting agents, mat. For this, the most delicate sandpaper is usually used, after which the surface is polished with a rag. If you plan to use a furniture primer, it should be applied in the last step.
Finish coating	If you want to preserve the structure of the wood, use tint or colorless products - you can take varnish, stain, oil or wax. In another case, paint is useful (it is better to take a water-based one) or furniture enamel. Please note - if you have chosen a bright, but light paint, it is better to pre-paint the furniture with white, then a different shade will better lie on such a background.
Fittings installation	The very last step is to install the hardware. You can return the old elements to their rightful place, or replace them with new ones.

We restore an old cabinet: repainting, aging, decoupage

Before starting work, you need to come up with (or better sketch in color) how the finished product will look. Having considered this moment, you can proceed to the acquisition of the necessary materials. We will need:

synthetic paint brushes of medium hardness (one for paint and one for varnish - at least two centimeters wide);
paint for wood;
sandpaper (harder and finer);
water-based varnish for wood (matte or glossy - at your discretion);
acrylic primer for wood;
masking tape;
paraffin candle;
decoupage napkins or drawings printed on thin paper;
PVA glue;
spray bottle with water.

Pneumatic airbrushes, spray guns, texture guns

Step-by-step instruction

Step 1. The first step is to remove all the fittings, and you need to start work by cleaning the cabinet surface from the old varnish. To make the work go faster, it is better to use a sander, but if there is none, you can also sand the cabinet manually.

Step 2. The entire surface of the cabinet to be painted must be primed. You need to apply the composition with a brush in one layer, and then dry for the time recommended by the manufacturer (usually the primer dries for at least three hours).

Step 3. We glue the parts that we do not plan to paint with masking tape. Paint the rest of the elements with a brush in one layer. Leave to dry, then, if necessary, cover the surface with a second coat of paint.

Step 4. Apply paraffin. With a paraffin candle, we need to process those areas that we plan to make aged (for example, the side edges). This technique will allow you to remove part of the paint layer and expose the previous one. This achieves the "scuff" effect, which is relevant for old furniture.

Step 5... Next, the cabinet needs to be covered with another layer of paint - this time it should be slightly lighter than in the previous layer (you can add white paint and stir). Doors and protruding elements, if desired, can be painted with a different shade or color, having previously glued the joint lines with masking tape.

Step 6. We decorate individual elements (in our case, drawers and door ends) using the decoupage technique. To do this, apply a napkin with a pattern to the surface of the cabinet, moisten it with water from a spray bottle, then smooth it with a brush. After that, cover the napkin with a layer of PVA glue and wait for it to dry.

Step 7. We cover the finished cabinet with varnish in two layers (each layer must be dried according to the instructions).

Video - Decoupage of laminated chipboard furniture

It is not at all necessary to spend a lot of time and money in order to give old furniture a new attractive look. So, there are quick and easy methods for updating interior items:

Self-restoration of furniture allows you to update your favorite interior items as you wish. This solution is suitable for those who are not ready to spend money on the purchase of new furniture, or who want to keep things dear to their hearts.

As practice shows, the issues of restoring pieces of furniture are quite solvable even in the conditions of an apartment, and the process of work can be mastered by everyone who knows how to hold the simplest carpentry tool in their hands. Simple work takes one or two days, but if they are carried out according to all the rules - the master is in no hurry, carefully follows all the instructions, then the result will be excellent, and the old unsightly furniture, which has received a new life, will delight the eye for many years to come.