• What can you cook from squid: quick and tasty

    Any building needs high-quality drainage of atmospheric precipitation. The roof itself is sealed, and storm water and snow go away thanks to the slopes. But if the flowing moisture gets on the facade or foundation of the building, then they will become damp and wear out faster. Therefore, every building needs a drain. It is a protective structure consisting of a system of gutters located along the perimeter of the roof and outlet pipes.

    Why do you need a drain

    An external gutter is a set of open gutters that collects moisture from the roof and directs it into vertical drain pipes. The places where the structure ends are equipped with containers for collecting water or storm sewers.

    The gutter protects the house from the damaging effects of moisture

    Functions of the drain

    The drain performs the following functions:

    1. Protective. Is in the lead Wastewater from the walls and basement of the house.
    2. Decorative. A beautiful homemade gutter will become a decoration of your home or gazebo.
    3. Cumulative. With such a system storm waters you can fill a special reservoir for irrigation.

    Industrial gutters are made of special plastic or galvanized steel and their cost is quite high. And if you add plugs, funnels, corners and elbows, then the price will double. Ready-made parts have their advantage - they are easy to assemble, like a constructor. To save money, the craftsmen found an alternative and began to independently manufacture drainage systems from improvised means, for example, from plastic sewer pipes. Therefore, if there is already a house or summer cottage, but there is no drain, then you can risk making it yourself.

    Homemade gutter can last for years

    If you approach the matter wisely and choose the right material, then a homemade drain can be used as the main one.

    Types of gutters

    The drain is of the following types:

    1. Outside or outside. This type is suitable for self-assembly.
    2. Internal, which is foreseen in the project. Most often, this view is set on flat roofs, pipes made of any material are suitable for it.

    Materials for homemade gutters

    Previously, only metal was used to assemble the ebb systems. More often - galvanized or polymer-coated steel, less often - copper or aluminum. Now assortment suitable materials increased significantly:

    1. Galvanized steel gutters. They are durable, reliable, resistant to stress and temperature fluctuations. Their disadvantage is noise and corrosion susceptibility.

      Galvanized steel is one of the most popular gutter materials

    2. PVC ejection systems. They are characterized by low weight and low noise, are easy to assemble and resist temperature extremes well.

      PVC gutter - reliable and quiet

    3. Drainage systems from sewer pipes. Thanks to their convenient installation and a wide variety of adapters, such pipes have become an excellent replacement for industrial PVC gutters.

      Sewer pipes are great gutter material

    4. Ceramic pipes and gutters. They will need special clay and pottery skill.

      Ceramic pipes are very durable

    5. Ebb from plastic bottles... They are quick to install, but suitable as a temporary alternative.

      Bottle plastic is the most affordable material for creating drainage

    6. Wooden gutters. Made by hand, they last a long time only in the case of special processing.

      Wooden gutter is very decorative

    7. Copper drains. They are suitable for long-term use, but over time they become covered with a patina.

      Copper gutters look noble and prestigious

    For the hand-made manufacture of a standard drainage system, plastic sewer pipes are often used. They have a number of undoubted advantages:

    • affordable price;
    • a wide range of pipes and adapters, as well as all kinds of fastening mechanisms;
    • light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation;
    • the possibility of self-cutting;
    • durability.

    Since such pipes are different colors, you need to figure out which of them are recommended to be used for arranging the drainage system:


    How to make a drain with your own hands

    Before purchasing pipes, a diagram of the entire system is drawn up, including all parts of the structure and their number:


    The cross-section of the pipes is selected based on the area of ​​the roof slope. You can use the following scale:

    • slope area up to 50 sq. m - pipe diameter 8 cm;
    • up to 125 sq. m - 9 cm;
    • more than 125 sq. m - 10 cm.

    The rest of the elements are purchased based on the diameter of the pipes from which the gutters are made.

    As already noted, before buying materials and installing a drain, it is necessary to draw detailed diagram, in which the following should be noted:

    • roof perimeter;
    • length and number of gutters;
    • attachment points for brackets, joints and funnels;
    • location of drains.

    Based on the perimeter of the roof, the footage of the pipe for future gutters is determined. Since it is cut in half and two pieces are obtained from one workpiece, the required pipe length will be equal to half of the roof perimeter. Next, the number of drainpipes is calculated. For this, a plan is drawn, on which all elements are marked. The distance between them cannot exceed 5 m. After determining the number of gutters, their length is calculated, for which the distance from the eaves overhang to the ground is measured. This will be the estimated height of the riser. This figure is multiplied by the number of parts and the desired pipe length is obtained. Tees connecting the gutters and risers are calculated next on the project. If the risers deviate at an angle, ready-made adapters are purchased. And also a special universal joint sealant is required.

    Tools for the job

    For work you need:

    • wood screws;
    • screwdriver;
    • grinder, jigsaw;
    • hacksaw for metal;
    • screwdriver;
    • construction cord;
    • level and tape measure;

    Scaffolding will also be needed.

    Construction of a drainage system

    After purchasing the materials, you can begin to manufacture and assemble the drainage structure.

    Create gutters

    To make a gutter from the pipe, it should be cut in half. This can be done with a grinder by choosing a diamond-plated disc and segments. Then the plastic will not melt during cutting. You can also use an electric jigsaw. For convenience, you need to design something like a guide and fix it on the workpiece so that the cut is even. It can also be done with a simple hacksaw. A ruler attached to the workpiece with tape, or a thread pulled over self-tapping screws screwed into the pipe from both ends, can act as a guide. The pipe sections included in the tee are not sawn. This ensures reliable connections.

    One plastic pipe produces two gutters

    Manufacturing and installation of brackets

    Brackets are used to secure the gutters. You can buy them or make your own from strips of sheet metal, bending to the size of the gutter. The bracket is the basic component of the outdoor gutter that supports the gutter. With the help of hook-shaped holders, the configuration of the intake circuit is formed.
    The brackets can be made independently from a strip of steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm, because they must be reliable. You can purchase ready-made strips for electrical work... Their section is initially suitable, it remains only to cut the blanks along the length.
    Workpiece size:


    To ensure that all brackets are the same, you can use a steel strip bending device or a steel pipe. the right size as a template. It is also recommended to fill nails on a thick board in the desired sequence and bend the holder using a piece of pipe as a lever.
    After shaping, holes are drilled in the brackets - two for attaching to the cornice, the next two for attaching the gutter. Finally, the holders are painted with rust paint - it is more durable. The brackets are attached in several ways:


    Brackets are mounted taking into account the following principles:


    Having chosen the method of fixing the brackets, you can get to work:

    1. The first are the two extreme brackets, between which the required slope is maintained.

      The two outer brackets are attached first.

    2. A cord is pulled between the fixed brackets, and along this line, places are outlined for attaching all other elements.
    3. The brackets are screwed to the base with a pitch of 550–600 mm.

      A distance of 5–6 cm is maintained between the brackets.

    4. Plastic adapters or funnels of the future drain are mounted next. One funnel is capable of collecting water from 120 m of the roof.

      The hole for installing the funnel is cut with a hacksaw

    5. Gutters are installed. They gather both on the ground and under the roof. The main thing is to correctly connect the joints. They are attached with glue or docked using special aluminum clips. In the case of docking, the use of a sealant is mandatory. Bracket mounting height varies by region. If there is little snow in winter, then you can fix it wherever it is convenient. Otherwise, the gutter is lowered so that the snow coming down from the roof does not carry the gutter with it.

      The gutters are joined with clips or put on glue

    6. When the gutters are assembled and rest on the brackets, the adapter pipes made of solid pieces of pipes are inserted into tees or drain funnels. Before that, they are treated with a sealant. At the upper end of the drain system, a plug is always installed.

      The plug is installed on a rubber seal

    Video: installing eaves brackets

    Installation of external drainage pipes

    Assembling the downpipes looks the same as connecting the gutters. If the pipe is lengthened, then an adapter is placed on the sealant between the segments. The process requires adherence to a number of rules:

    • the drainpipe should extend 10 cm from the wall;
    • for fastening to walls, you need to use clamps;
    • the pipe should be mounted from top to bottom;
    • Insert the upper section into the funnel and secure with sealant.

    If necessary, the riser pipe can be connected to an adapter for storm sewer... It is recommended to replace it with a knee, under which a container for flowing water is placed.

    The installation of the downpipe must be carried out in accordance with the rules

    It is recommended to additionally protect the finished gutter from littering by installing a building mesh twisted into a roll in the gutters. The diameter of the rolled roll should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe from which the grooves are made. The protection is fixed with plastic clips.

    The gutter can be protected with a mesh made of different materials

    Video: drainage from sewer pipes

    Homemade galvanized steel gutter

    The creation of a drainage system made of galvanized steel requires certain knowledge and skill. Typically, 0.5–0.7 mm roofing sheet steel is used. It should not be less than 270 g per sq. m.

    Tools

    You need to prepare:

    • scissors for metal;
    • marker for marking;
    • hammer and mallet;
    • pliers.

    Making a pipe from tin

    Pipes are a simple element of a drainage system and are very easy to make at home. For work, galvanized steel sheets or thin sheet metal are suitable. The manufacturing method for these materials is the same.

    Steel pipe is easy to make by yourself

    Step-by-step instruction

    The work is performed in the following sequence:


    Installation of gutters made of steel

    The principles of the device of the drainage system made of galvanized metal are similar to the installation of a drainage system made of plastic pipes. But there are also differences:

    1. After determining the starting point, the gutter brackets are mounted.
    2. Metal gutters are overlapped with a length of 7-10 cm. The overlap is designed to compensate for the expansion of the metal in the summer.
    3. Funnels are installed, which should be located between the brackets. Holes for funnels are cut with metal scissors.
    4. The funnels are connected to the pipe at a sufficient distance from the wall.
    5. The pipes are fixed with clamps.
    6. The ebb is attached to the bottom of the pipe.
    7. An anti-icing system is being installed.

    Video: metal gutter construction

    Drainage from plastic bottles

    The cheapest and easiest option is to create a drain from a plastic container. It will be easy to accumulate the required amount of such material, but the construction will require 1.5-liter straight-shaped bottles. In addition to them, you will need wire and brackets.

    Bottled plastic gutter is quick and cheap to assemble

    Tools and materials for work

    It is worth preparing:

    • furniture stapler and staples 10–12 mm;
    • construction knife;
    • drill or screwdriver;
    • thin drill;
    • wire;
    • awl;
    • plastic containers.

    Step-by-step instructions for making an ebb from plastic bottles

    The finished structure will last at least a year, but then you have to take care of creating a more perfect system.

    Video: plastic bottle gutter

    It is obvious that self-construction of a drainage system is available to anyone who wants to equip their home with an economical and practical design.

    A drainage system installed on the roof is necessary to remove water from it. If a drainage system is not installed on the roof, then the life of the entire building will decrease. This will happen due to the constant wetting of the walls and foundation. After a while, you will have to not only paint the facade, but also repair the house, and in particular the blind area. How to properly install the drainage system on the roof, we will consider further.

    Plums for the roof: features, characteristics, varieties

    When choosing drains for the roof, one should take into account such factors as the place of their installation, the material from which the roof was built, the amount of precipitation in a given area and the individual characteristics of the structure. Depending on the material from which the drain is made, they are plastic and steel.

    Please note that plastic plum for roofs are not installed in winter, the optimum air temperature for their installation is at least 5 degrees Celsius. Steel drainage systems are installed at any time, they are more durable and resistant to mechanical damage. The drainage system is a certain number of gutters installed on the roof slope. To fix the gutters on the roof, special couplings, elbows and other connecting elements are used. In order to properly install the drain system, it is necessary to study the principle of its functioning. The main rule for obtaining a high-quality drainage system is to select the correct section of gutters and drains.

    Gutter - designed to collect rainwater that falls into it from the roof slopes. Water flows from the house through special funnels. The size of the gutters and pipes determines the quality of the collection of water and its removal from the building. To determine the size of the drain gutters, it is necessary to determine the slopes separately located on the roof.

    For example, if the area of ​​the slope is about 45 square meters, then the minimum value of the gutter section will be 10 cm. If the area of ​​the slope is about one hundred square meters, then the cross-section of the gutter will be 15 cm, and the diameter of the pipes through which the water flows down will be 15 cm.

    In relation to the place of installation drainpipes, they are internal and external. The outer ones are on the walls of the building, and the inner ones are built into the walls of the house.

    Depending on the method of connection between certain fragments of the drain, they have glue and rubber based seals. The external version of the gutter is suitable for any type pitched roof... Installation internal system the drain is made in the case of arranging a flat roof.

    Roof drainage technology

    In order for the water flowing down the gutter to enter the drain, the gutter should be provided with a certain angle of inclination. That is, the beginning of the gutter should be located higher than its end section connected to the pipe. For the normal functioning of the drainage system, it is necessary to provide the gutter with an angle of inclination of three millimeters for each running meter of the drainage system.

    Please note that the speed of water flow through it depends on the increase in the angle of inclination of the drain. Installing drains that are too large will cause water to flow out during heavy rainfall.

    To fix the gutters on the roof, hooks or holders are used that provide an angle of inclination of the drain channel to one side or the other. To fix the hooks on the frontal board of the building, self-tapping screws with a galvanized coating are used. In relation to the place of fixing the drains, fasteners of various lengths are used.

    Initially, the holders are fixed, located at the top and bottom of the drain. Next, you should pull the cord between them, check its evenness and install the rest of the fasteners. The lower hook is located in relation to the roof by 10 cm. When bending the holders, take into account the slope of the drainage system, the front of which is 4-6 mm lower than the rear. The maximum spacing of the hooks is 55 cm.

    Installation of gutters is carried out from the bottom of the gutters. To do this, install the groove inside its retainer, which will snap into place to fix a certain fragment. To ensure the sealing of the gutter and funnel, you should use a special glue, in the case of plastic gutters, or use a solder, when installing a steel drainage system.

    When installing a gutter system, in some cases it is necessary to change the size of the gutter. In order to cut the gutters made of plastic, use a grinder or a hacksaw, and for steel structures it is recommended to use only metal scissors. If you cut steel gutters with a grinder, there is a risk of damage to the anti-corrosion coating due to the high heating of the metal. Over time, this gutter will begin to rust.

    Please note that if the length of the slope is more than ten meters, then it is necessary to connect the gutter to several pipes of the drainage system. The midpoint between the pipes is the highest precision gutter setting. Thus, the water will be evenly distributed over the surface.

    Drainage system installation - installation of drainpipes

    Before installing the drains, you should equip the funnels for water intake. They connect pipes and gutters on the gutter system. To fix the funnels, special elements in the form of brackets are used. They are fixed to a roof board or ramp.

    Installation of drainpipes is carried out in the corner areas of the building or near them. These pipes are round or square. The choice of one form or another of the pipe depends both on the features of the facade design and on the amount of precipitation falling in a given climatic region. Please note that a square-shaped pipe has large throughputs, if the length of the house is more than 150 m, then it is recommended to install square-shaped drainpipes on it.

    Please note that the shape of the drains and gutters must be the same. The interval between the wall and the drain is from 25 to 60 cm. To fix the drain pipe on the surface of the building, special elements are used, such as clamps and holders. The clamp must have the same shape as the pipe itself. In order to prevent corrosion of the gutter system, galvanized steel is used for the manufacture of clamps and holders.

    After installing the funnels, the pipe elbows are mounted. In this case, the upper part of the elbow should freely enter the lower part of the pipe. An elbow is also installed at the bottom of the pipe, observing an inclination angle of 55-70 degrees. For bending the drain, special elbows are used. Please note that placing pipes on the ground is unacceptable, as they are easily rotting. The distance between pipes and soil is at least 35 cm.

    Installation of roof drainage system: outdoor drainage system

    Among the main components of the external roof drainage system, we note:

    • gutters installed at a certain slope;
    • funnels that receive water from the gutter;
    • pipes through which water is removed from the building.

    Please note that the installation interval of the funnels is about 30 cm. In this case, a gutter with a length of no more than 8 m is allowed per funnel.

    The drain gutter is divided into the following types:

    • eaves gutter - installed along the eaves of the roof - one of the most popular options for gutters;
    • parapet-type gutter - installed between the walls, the use of this structure is very unpopular, due to its impracticality;
    • gutter type gutter diverts water to the parapet.

    In relation to the shape of the gutters, they are:

    • square;
    • semicircular;
    • rectangular.

    In order to equip a standard gutter system, standard semi-circular gutters are used. If it is necessary to protect the drain from dirt and other debris, gutters with a relief coating are installed on its surface.

    If there is an increased level of precipitation in the region, it is recommended to install gutters with a square cross section.

    It is preferable to equip the water drain from the roof on the south side of the house. Please note that pipes and gutters must match each other in cross-section. To fix the pipes, clamps and special pins made of stainless steel are used.

    Depending on the material from which the drain system is made, there are:

    • drainage system made of galvanized sheet;
    • aluminum;
    • copper;
    • plastic;
    • titanium-zinc coating.

    The choice of this or that option depends on the individual characteristics of the structure and the material condition of its owners.

    By setting drain pipes for the roof, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

    • the installation of the pipe in relation to the wall of the house is carried out at a minimum distance, a maximum of 50 mm, otherwise moisture will fall on the wall, constantly moistening it;
    • gutters are installed with a mandatory slope, which is arranged in the funnel-shaped side, thus, it is possible to prevent excessive accumulation of liquid;
    • to seal all joints and places of installation of the system, cold welding or seals made of rubber are used.

    We propose to consider the positive and negative aspects of each sealing method:

    1. Rubber seals are resistant to mechanical stress, prevent the drainage system from leaking. However, rubber is unstable against high and low temperatures, they stretch from heat and burst from frost.

    2. Gutter elements connected with glue are very well sealed. However, their disassembly becomes impossible.

    3.With the use of cold welding, it is possible to provide the most reliable method of sealing. When mechanically acting on the drainage system, it cracks.

    The choice of this or that mounting option depends on the material from which the system is built and on the place of its installation.

    Features of installing drain from the roof

    The work on installing the drainage system begins with the design calculations. Initially, you should calculate how many materials will be required in the process of work. First you need to determine the length of the gutter, to calculate it, find out the perimeter of the building.

    When using plastic pipes, the hooks are installed at a distance of half a meter from each other. In the process of using steel gutters, the interval is reduced to 35 cm. Next, the funnels should be fixed, after which the gutters are laid inside the holders.

    The next stage of the work is the installation of connectors for the drainage system. Moreover, they are installed between the joints of one and the second gutters. Next, pipes and gutters are installed. Please note that when joining two gutters, you must take care of the presence of a temperature gap, which prevents them from deformation due to their expansion or reduction.

    Installation of drainage of water from the roof is carried out taking into account certain requirements and standards. Special brackets are used to fix the funnels. Please note that the system must be located at a certain slope, otherwise, water will accumulate in the gutters.

    By pulling the rope along the chute, you can track the spacing of the brackets for fixing the funnels. After installing the holders, the gutters are mounted directly. If there are protruding sections on the facade, you should install special corner fragments. To close the ends of the gutter, special plugs are used.

    Next, the installation of drain pipes is carried out, which are removed from the wall at a minimum distance. You can check the performance of the system by supplying water through a hose to the roof. If water flows through the system and does not remain in the gutters, then the system is working properly.

    Currently, the stores have a huge selection of plastic and metal drainage systems; you can buy any set from both well-known manufacturers and very young companies. They work well, in terms of operational and design indicators, they fully meet the modern requirements of consumers. But all factory systems have one significant drawback - high cost. For ten meters of the cheapest gutters you will have to pay 10,000 rubles. Installation of drainage systems in a medium-sized cottage will cost no less than 50,000 rubles. Such sums are not affordable for rural residents, and even more so it is a pity to give them for ordinary drainage systems. There is a way out - to make a do-it-yourself drain from the roof from cheaper materials.

    The prime cost of self-made structures is about five to ten times lower than the factory ones, the specific price depends on the selected material and the professional skill of the performer. An inexperienced craftsman can only spoil the purchased pipes and additional elements.

    To make a device with your own hands, you can use several types of materials.


    There are objective reasons for this state of affairs.

    1. The first one is sewer pipes are made of the cheapest plastic, most often not primary, but secondary, they are not affected by harsh ultraviolet rays, they do not freeze / thaw, mineral dyes are not added to them to improve the design look.
    2. Second, well-known manufacturers of drainage systems set additional markups for brand promotion. This does not apply to sewer pipes.
    3. The third is excellent shape and appearance significantly complicate the production of plums. It is necessary to have special machines and precise multi-piece molds, the set of devices includes many tens of units. Fourth - high quality supported by process control at every stage of production. This causes an increase in rejects and, accordingly, increases the selling cost of products.

    Making a roof drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, as the only acceptable option, we will consider in detail in this article and give step-by-step instructions.

    What function should the drain perform?

    Regardless of what material the drain is made of, it must protect the foundation and basement of the house from rain and melt water.

    Waterlogged soil can cause premature damage to building masonry materials or subsidence of the foundation. Reducing the bearing indicators of the foundation - very a big problem... It can only be noticed when cracks appear on the facade walls of the house. It is very difficult and expensive to restore the strength of the foundation, such work can only be performed by professionals. But they are not in a position to give one hundred percent guarantee that the measures taken will achieve the goal. All other drain functions (collection of rainwater into a container, decorative decoration facade of the building) are considered secondary and have no effect on the duration and safety of the operation of the building.

    Gutter prices

    Gutters

    Step-by-step instructions for making a drain from sewer pipes

    Before starting work, you should find out some technical issues, this will help to avoid annoying mistakes and improve the performance of the structure.

    The constituent elements of a homemade gutter

    Item nameDesign features and purpose

    One of the most visible and most important elements of the system. It not only removes water from the slopes, but also withstands rather significant snow loads. Must be made of durable materials, have a neat appearance and have high physical strength values.

    It directs water from the gutters to special receivers or to the adjoining sewerage system. Sewerage can be not only hidden underground, but also open ground. The main thing is that water is effectively drained away from the house.

    Home-made is significantly different from the factory, but it takes water perfectly. During manufacturing, attention should be paid to the tightness of the connection of all joints. The fact is that the funnel can wobble a little, these are the features of the places where it is installed. Due to additional sealing, it is possible to neutralize minor fluctuations.

    Installed at the ends of the gutters. They play a not very important role in the system, they restrain the overflow of water only during very heavy rainfalls.

    With pipe bends, issues are solved simply - sewer systems have these additional connecting elements. For the gutters, you have to make turns yourself. In terms of complexity, these are some of the most difficult elements.

    Fix in the right position and in the right place of the gutter and pipe. For homemade systems metal strips are used, bent at certain angles. The thickness of the strips and the distance between the fixing points must guarantee the stability of the structure under maximum loads.

    We specially dwell on the purpose and operating conditions of each element of the weir, such knowledge will help to avoid mistakes during self-made designs.

    Step 1. Preparation of materials and tools. Pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are quite suitable for the drain, most factory systems are made with a diameter of 100 mm. These are universal sizes that fit most homes. If your slopes are too large in area, then you can install not one funnel for water drainage on one straight section of the gutter, but several at a distance of about 6-8 meters from each other. The standard length of sewer pipes is 2.5 meters, made of polypropylene.

    Prices for polypropylene pipes for sewerage

    Polypropylene pipes for sewerage

    Important. You need to understand the difference between pipes for internal and external sewerage.

    Some inexperienced craftsmen think that pipes for external sewage are not afraid of ultraviolet rays and negative temperatures, because they are mounted outside the house and connected to external highways. That's right, these are pipes for external sewerage, only they are installed in trenches, and not on outdoors... And in the trenches there are no UV rays and negative temperatures, but there are additional mechanical loads. In order for the pipes to withstand them, they have thicker walls and, accordingly, the price is much higher. Pipes for external sewerage do not have additives from the negative effects of ultraviolet rays. For gutters, it is better to buy pipes for internal sewerage, they are noticeably cheaper.

    Calculate the footage of pipes, while you need to know the height and length of the building. Two gutters are made from one pipe. Immediately find out the number of turns and at what angles they should be, the number of bends with different angles of rotation, tees and plugs. A meter of sewage pipe costs about 150-200 rubles, ten meters of drainage will cost about 1,500 rubles with all the additional elements. This is an order of magnitude cheaper than a factory drainage system.

    To work, you need to have an electric cylindrical grinder and several thin metal discs of the corresponding diameter. Choose the smallest grinder. It is not necessary to cut high power plastic, but work alone light hand grinder is much more convenient.

    Prepare a ruler and tape measure, hardware, metal bar, locksmith and measuring tools. It is advisable to first draw a sketch, think over and calculate everything again.

    Practical advice. First, try to make a homemade drainage system for irresponsible buildings: a garage, a bathhouse, a workshop, etc. During this time, you will gain experience and learn how the system looks at the facility.

    Step 2. Prepare workplace... The fact is that the pipes are long, you need to think about how to cut them from one place. If it is inconvenient to work, then the cut will never turn out smooth. This is a frank marriage, it will either have to be corrected, which takes a lot of time. Or install such a gutter in an inconspicuous place in the building. It is very convenient to work on ordinary pallets. The pipe is rolled into the gap between the boards and is held quite firmly there, which greatly facilitates the ripping process.

    Provide a separate area for storing purchased materials and finished items, a table for tools and hardware, solve the issue with the supply of light.

    Step 3. Install a plastic plug into the end of the pipe. The pipe is subsequently cut into two halves under the gutter, respectively, the plug will not hold. To prevent it from falling out, fix the element with self-tapping screws, the length of the hardware is about one centimeter. You need at least four pieces, the distance between them is symmetrical. After cutting the pipe, there should be two self-tapping screws on each chute. Make sure that the screws are not too close to the cutting line.

    And one more nuance. A rubber ring is installed at the end of the pipe, it seals the plug. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in so that they do not damage the rubber ring, but press the pipe socket against it. Step back about 3-4 cm from the end, measure the specific distance yourself, it may vary slightly due to differences in pipes from different manufacturers.

    Step 4. Make marks to cut the pipe in half. It should be marked with a felt-tip pen, a pencil does not draw on plastic.

    Step 5. Saw the pipe carefully along the drawn line. It was already mentioned above that the grinder must be held with one hand, and the pipe must be fixed with the other. As the sawing progresses, the pipe moves towards the tool. If it’s difficult to work like that, then you will have to call an assistant. Let him hold the pipe, and the master works with the grinder with both hands. By the way, this is how it is recommended to work with the instrument safety instructions.

    Step 6. Remove burrs. The disc does not cut plastic, but melts it, large burrs remain, they are removed easily. Some use special grinding discs, put them in a grinder and try to use them to remove the molten plastic from the edges. We do not recommend doing this, the disc will remove old burrs and leave new ones, from high revolutions the plastic melts. Work without tools, burrs are easily cut off with an assembly knife or broken off by hand, but you will have to make significant efforts. The third option is take an abrasive disc and work with it manually... If your cut is wavy, then it is advisable to trim it. Do not be very upset, the next pipe will be cut much better and easier, and a slightly damaged gutter can be placed on the back of the building, no one will see it there.

    Continue to cut all remaining gutter pipes using the same algorithm. Two grooves are also connected using self-tapping screws; in the overlap places, a half of the factory rubber gasket must be installed, for this they have technological grooves.

    Sections of the gutter connection are the most dangerous, it is here that leaks most often appear. The fact is that the gutter is long, insignificant forces at one end of it through the fastening brackets increase tenfold, they work like a lever. The other end may move slightly. In order to completely eliminate the likelihood of leaks, we strongly recommend using a sealant. You can buy cheap, there is no need to use UV-resistant material, the material is not outdoors, half of a plastic pipe lies on top and protects it. But you should pay attention to the indicators of adhesion and plasticity.

    Now we already have some experience and we can begin to manufacture more complex elements of the weir system.

    Funnel making

    This is one of the most complex elements of the system. To make it you need to prepare:

    • a piece of pipe of the required length;
    • end cap;
    • turn;
    • connecting crosspiece.

    Step 1. Collect all the elements into one structure, check the length of the pipe segment again.

    Step 2. Fasten the individual parts with self-tapping screws, as we described above.

    Important. Remember to always lubricate the surfaces to be connected with sealant, do not rely only on rubber seals.

    Step 3. Look carefully for the middle of the structure and draw lines on both sides.

    Step 4. Cut the assembled structure along the lines with a grinder.

    Remove burrs. Work carefully, take your time. Make sure that individual parts do not move during cutting.

    Practical advice. It is better not to cut the plugs at the ends of the gutters into halves, but to leave them intact, in this position they are held more firmly. For this, the pipe socket is not cut axially, but its half is cut along the circumference. The appearance of such a gutter differs from the standard one, make a decision yourself which connection to make.

    The water will be discharged into the storm drain buried in the ground. Rainwater is considered to be very useful for watering all plants, on summer cottage always come in handy. Moreover, if there is no centralized water supply on it.

    Almost all elements of the drainage system are prepared, you can start making metal brackets.

    Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

    Screwdrivers

    Manufacturingbrackets

    You need to prepare a metal strip approximately 2.0 mm thick and up to two centimeters wide.

    Step 1. Measure the length of the brackets. It is equal to the length of the section, which is fixed to the rafter system and half the circumference of the gutter. In order not to be mistaken, it is recommended to use soft wire. Make a template out of it, adjust it several times to the optimal position. Everything is OK - align the wire and measure its length. Practitioners advise in any case to give an additional margin of about 2-3 cm.

    Step 2. On a long strip, make marks and cut the blanks for the brackets, drill holes in them.

    Plumbing installation

    If the length of the slope is small and there is an assistant, then you can attach the brackets to the gutter while still on the ground, and install the structure on the roof as an assembly. You will have to work very carefully, during installation, the assembled gutter can be damaged. Do not forget that for the water to drain off, a slope should be made, about 2–3 cm at ten running meters. No more need, otherwise, at the opposite end, the gutter will be too far from the roof and water will not get into it.

    Assemble the drain pipes, attach them to the drain, and insert the other end into a container to collect rainwater. Vertical pipes are fastened to the walls with any clamps, it is not necessary to tighten too much. It is advisable to place the clamps in such a place that they rest against the protrusions of the sockets.

    If there are any vertical posts near the house, then you can tape the plastic pipes to them as well.

    Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the likelihood of depressurization of vertical pipe joints, screw in self-tapping screws at the junction. They will prevent the pipes from falling out under their own weight.

    Manufacturinghookbeam

    The above-described method of fixing the gutter is considered very risky, it is advisable to use the traditional one - first, the hooks are fixed, and then the gutters are installed on them. But it can be quite difficult to bend homemade metal strips correctly. To facilitate the process, you can make the simplest hook-and-loop device.

    To do this, you will need two pieces of square pipes 30–40 cm long. The cross-section of the pipes must be selected so that they fit into each other with a gap of about 6–8 millimeters. For example, the width of one pipe is 30 mm, and the other is 20–25 mm. Carefully clean the ends of the pipes, remove all burrs, align the planes.

    Step 1. Insert the pipes into each other, align the ends, they should be in the same plane.

    Step 2. Insert the bracket into the gap between the pipes, it will control the size of the gap.

    Practical advice. The width of the gap should be slightly larger than the thickness of the metal strip, so it will be easier to use the fixture. Not all metal strips are perfectly flat, there are some with slight bends. The increased clearance will allow them to bend without problems in the device. In order to achieve this size between the fixture and metal strip, it is recommended to push a piece of sheet metal approximately 1 mm thick over the strip. After being tacked by welding, it is removed.

    In the lower part of the mute, grab the pipes with electric welding, do the same operation from the other end.

    Step 3. Take out the bracket and weld the pipes firmly. Remove the scale.

    The device is now ready for use. It is very easy to work with him. The workpiece is inserted into the hook-bend according to the mark, the fixture is held with one hand, and the part is bent at the desired angle and at a given distance with the other.

    The hook-bender allows you to make not only even bends, but also under various slopes. To do this, the workpiece must not be pressed against the side wall, but slightly turned in one direction or another. The bending angle changes depending on the angle of rotation. Over time, experience appears, all hooks are bent exactly to the specified dimensions, taking into account the characteristics of the roof and the drainage system.

    Conclusion

    It will take no more than one day to make such a drain from the roof, and the financial savings are very significant. The only drawback is that sewer pipes are afraid of ultraviolet radiation. If possible, it is recommended to take any measures to protect the plastic from sun rays... Otherwise, the system will last no more than 4–5 years.

    Correctly organized drainage of melt and rainwater from the pitched roof will protect the roofing system, walls and foundation of the building from moisture destruction. Modern systems drainage systems are made of durable aesthetic materials, easy to install, harmoniously combined with the color of the roof or walls and give the appearance of the house a neat, complete look.

    Main types of materials

    The elements from which the drainage system is made can be made of metal (steel, copper, aluminum) or plastic. Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

    Steel weirs made of sheet material up to 1 mm thick are the most common today. Products differ in appearance, functionality and durability depending on the type of outer protective layer, which is:

    • galvanized;
    • polymer coating;
    • zinc-titanium coating;
    • copper plated.

    In Soviet times, in our country, gutters, pipes and funnels made of galvanized steel were used for the drainage system. The installation of a traditional structure can be done independently, while it is recommended to use a joint sealant instead of rolling the elements - this significantly speeds up the work process. The disadvantages of galvanized weirs include high noise, not the most attractive appearance and the tendency of the material to corrode. To prolong the life of the system, the assembled structure can be painted with a waterproof paint or varnish.


    Steel drainage systems with polymer coating more durable and resistant to corrosion, provided that the protective layer is not damaged during the do-it-yourself installation and operation of the products. This type of product is also more functional due to its low noise level - the polymer coating dampens the sounds of falling and running water. Manufacturers offer gutters made of sheet steel with a polymer coating in various colors, making it easy to choose a material that matches the shade of the walls or roof of a house made of metal tiles. Such a system can last 25-50 years - the operational period depends on the thickness of the metal and the coating parameters.

    The elements of the water drainage system can be made of copper or zinc-titanium coated steel. Such materials are not only durable, but also look spectacular. The disadvantages include the high cost of products.

    The range of metal drains includes products made of aluminum and copper. Their use is rather limited due to their high cost. The advantages of aluminum elements include low weight, due to which the system does not place serious stress on the fastening elements. Copper products perfectly complement the roofing made of copper sheet. Over time, copper oxidizes and becomes covered with a film of a noble malachite hue. The gutter system made of copper is heavy, which should be taken into account when designing a building.


    Plastic waste system is gaining popularity due to a number of advantages:

    • high precision of product manufacturing and neat appearance;
    • simple installation (using glue or special rubber seals;
    • low weight (does not overload the foundation and roof);
    • maximum tightness of the assembled structure;
    • affordable cost.

    There are also disadvantages - plastic elements that are fragile in frost can be damaged when snow melts from the roof or due to the expansion of accumulated water when it freezes.

    DIY drainage

    The roof drainage system consists of gutters, pipes and funnels. If the gutters can be made independently, it is advisable to use ready-made funnels (with a wide neck, overhead or through). The gutters can be rounded or rectangular. You can make drains of any shape with your own hands.


    The rectangular gutter is made from a strip of sheet steel, the thickness of which does not exceed 1 mm. To bend the metal, the easiest way is to use the appropriate machine, but you can also do the work with a mallet. The rounded gutter is half a thin-walled steel pipe cut along the central axis. The pipes should be cut with sharp metal scissors. When using a grinder, the likelihood of rapid corrosion of the sections, and then of the entire gutter, significantly increases.

    Self-made elements of the weir system need to be protected against corrosion with the help of protective and decorative paints and varnishes... Particular attention should be paid to the edges and joints of the assembled structure.

    Weir system calculation

    The calculation of the drainage system is carried out at the design stage of the house. When developing a roof scheme, it is required to determine the diameter of the gutters and the location of the funnels. On sale most often there are gutters of standard diameters - 80 mm, 100 mm, 125 mm. Funnels should be installed at intervals of no more than 24 meters, optimal distance between two funnels is 8-12 meters - in this case it is not required to perform a significant slope of the gutters.

    The ability of the system to effectively drain melt and rainwater is calculated based on the following parameters: per 1 sq. m of the roof (in a horizontal projection) should account for 1.5 sq. see the cross-sectional areas of the gutter and roof outlet. Calculation for a drain with a diameter of 100 mm: the cross-sectional area of ​​the gutter is 78.5 sq. cm., which allows to ensure the drainage of storm water from the roof, the area of ​​the horizontal projection of which reaches 52 sq. m.


    Corresponding amendments are made to the calculations if the climate of the region where the house is being built is characterized by aridity or the amount of precipitation above average.

    Having developed general scheme structures for draining rainwater from the roof, you can use a special program for accurate calculations, which is provided by various manufacturers of materials for the installation of drainage systems.

    When designing a structure, it is required to take into account the weight of its elements. Systems made of heavy materials should be considered especially carefully, since they create a serious additional load on the foundation. In particular, for houses with strip foundation it is not recommended to install copper gutters and pipes.

    Bracket installation principle

    First of all, it is necessary to choose the type of fastening of the horizontal elements of the system. The edge of the eaves should hang over the middle of the gutter. All elements must be fastened with self-tapping screws. Exists different options installation of brackets.

    1. Installation of gutters can be carried out on metal hooks fixed to the base of the roof. Brackets are installed prior to installation roofing... To ensure the required slope angle of the chute, hooks should be placed on the support at different distances. The installation locations of the funnels must be determined in advance.
      Installation according to this principle is recommended for gutters made of heavy materials, as well as for snowy regions.
    2. Brackets are mounted on rafters prior to installation roofing cake... This option is suitable for relatively light drainage systems.
    3. The gutter hooks are installed on the front (end) board. This option is less reliable, since the fasteners can be torn out under high load. The solution is suitable for plastic systems with brackets designed for fastening to a vertical surface, and is used when there is no danger of snow falling from the roof.
    4. Brackets are fixed to the building wall. This principle of installing gutters is practiced in the case of small eaves overhangs at home.

    The advantage of the third and fourth options is the possibility of mounting brackets after the completion of the roof arrangement.

    DIY installation of the structure

    If the brackets are installed on the base of the roof, the hooks must first be bent - the bending angle must correspond to the angle of inclination of the roof slope. First of all, the installation of the brackets for the drainage funnels is carried out. Further, the distance between the installation locations of the drainpipes must be divided by the minimum allowable step for installing the brackets. This indicator depends on the material of manufacture of the gutters. For example, the recommended distance between adjacent hooks for steel elements is 0.9 m, for plastic gutters - 0.6 m.

    After marking the attachment points, pull the cord, which will indicate the angle of inclination of the gutter. In order for the water to drain efficiently, the height difference must be at least 2-3 mm per meter of gutter.


    The order of installing the elements with your own hands depends on the characteristics of a particular system. In some cases, funnels are installed first, in others, gutters. The marking is carried out from the funnel, which should be located below the level of the gutters. The standard length of the gutter is 3 or 4 meters. The end piece is trimmed to fit. Steel or aluminum gutters are cut with scissors for metal, plastic ones - with a hacksaw for wood. At the ends of a self-assembled line of gutters, an external or internal turn, a connector or a plug can be installed.

    The gutters are fastened together by glue or glueless method, on seals, using silicone sealant... The type of fastening is determined by the characteristics of the material and the manufacturer's recommendations. Between the gutter and the funnel, it is usually envisaged to create a joint with a gap for thermal deformation, which must be taken into account when designing the system.

    There should be two elbows and a straight pipe between the funnel and the vertical downpipe. In the lower part of the vertical drain, a standard drain elbow is installed (a special elbow equipped with a 45-degree projection) if precipitation is supposed to be drained directly to the surface or into a container for collecting rainwater.


    Each of the varieties and brands of the water drainage system has its own characteristics, therefore, during the installation work, it is required to strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

    Drainage system maintenance

    To gutter system served for a long time, not only correct assembly of the structure is required, but also timely care for it. A common cause of various types of damage is water accumulated in the gutters. With prolonged exposure to moisture on steel parts with a damaged protective coating, foci of corrosion appear, freezing of water leads to rupture of plastic elements.

    Water accumulation is usually caused by leaves and other debris clogging up the drainage system. Debris also causes water running off the roof to overflow the gutters and overflow the edges onto the facade of the house. The gutters need to be cleaned regularly, especially during the period of leaf fall, and it is recommended to install special nets on the funnels of the drainpipes to prevent large debris from getting inside.


    In areas with snowy winters, it is important to take measures to protect the drainage system. To protect the gutter structure from damage by layers of snow coming off the roof, snow protectors are installed on the roof. To prevent the formation of ice and icicles, as well as to prevent freezing of water in gutters and pipes, a heating electric cable can be laid along the edge of the roof and in the drainage system - this solution has successfully proven itself in regions characterized by frequent alternation of thaws and frosts.


    An effective gutter system, the installation of which can be done by hand, will reliably protect building construction and the foundation of the house from damage caused by systematic exposure to moisture.

    Until the roof weirs are installed, the construction of the house cannot be considered complete. They protect the facade, foundation and blind area from the damaging effects of moisture. To create such a system, you can purchase ready-made modules, order an assembly, or build it yourself. Anyway knowledge general rules come in handy.

    You will learn everything about the specifics of the gutter system from the article we have proposed. We will show you how to design and calculate a weir loop. We will show you how to choose a material for assembly and install a structure for removing atmospheric water.

    Installing a roof gutter is not that difficult. Most manufacturers offer ready-made circuits with detailed instructions for installation.

    The main task is to preliminarily think over where the water will flow from and where, correctly make the wiring and make measurements. When drawing up a drawing, you need to take into account building codes and recommendations that have already been tested in practice.

    Varieties of drain structures

    First you need to choose the type of system - indoor or outdoor, organized or unorganized. The type of spillway depends on the number of storeys of the building, the roofing material.

    It is advisable to equip houses over 6 levels with an internal weir. These are heated buildings with a roll or mastic roof. Internal drain is also suitable for flat roofs.

    An unorganized system justifies itself in regions with low rainfall, but requires good waterproofing of the foundation and slopes. Hidden drain is effective and aesthetic, but difficult to install and operate

    If the levels are up to 2, you can get by with a disorganized system. The most acceptable and recommended option according to SNiP for buildings up to 5 levels is an external organized drain. It is easier than others to install and not difficult to maintain.

    Key design factors

    Before buying drainage elements, a drawing is drawn up of the perimeter of the roof with all protrusions, turns, angles are measured. This helps to determine the parameters of the system, to make calculations. But the drainage project should be based on justification.

    There are 3 factors that are taken into account when calculating:

    1. Area and design features roofs.
    2. The amount of precipitation.
    3. Lowest possible temperature.

    The diameter and footage of pipes, the number of funnels and brackets - it all depends on the area of ​​the roof. If it does not exceed 100 m 2, gutters with a diameter of 7-11.5 cm are suitable, the diameter of downpipes is 7.5-13 cm.If the roof area is more than 100 m 2, gutters with a cross section of up to 20 cm and gutters up to 16 cm are needed ...

    The principle of calculating parts

    The number of gutters is calculated along the perimeter of the roof and the length of one slope. Further, the number of joints of parts is determined and it is found out how many connecting elements are needed.

    The number of fasteners depends on the selected material for: for metal, the inter-fastening distance is 40 cm, for plastic - 70 cm. Plugs are placed on each pipe break, funnels - on each drain.

    The nuances of arranging a roof of a complex shape

    Here you need to collect water from each slope, bay window, it is advisable to mount several gutters. If you equip the system according to the principle of minimum, a strong flow will enter the pipes, which will slow down when passing through the gutters. This will put stress on the entire structure.

    Sometimes additional channels for collecting water are needed above balconies, along the perimeter of turrets, in architectural superstructures. It is problematic to get rid of such places from freezing and moisture ingress.

    Rounded elements are especially difficult. In this case, a radial drain is made from welded gutters, which can be painted for aesthetics.

    For lucarne and roof windows plums are optional. They are made only on condition large area and multidirectional stingrays.

    One more possible problem when designing a gutter for a complex roof - a large number of elements. Color helps: details are matched to the roof or contrasting with it. The design also uses the shape of the profile when it is installed as an architectural element.

    The choice of materials for the drainage system

    Quality, appearance, price are three parameters that guide the selection of materials for the weir. Climatic conditions are also important: in regions with sunny hot summers, metal is preferable, for areas with increased level humidity is better than plastic.

    An article devoted to the analysis and evaluation of both varieties will help to compare for the organization of the drain.

    There are several options on the market:

    • Galvanized steel... An inexpensive and easy-to-install solution. But steel is susceptible to corrosion, so the durability of the structure is questionable.
    • Polymers... They look attractive, you can choose a color to match the roof, they serve for a long time. But they are moderately fragile, require careful installation.
    • Copper and aluminum... These materials look solid and emphasize the material capabilities of the owner. Their service life is unlimited. The only thing stopping you from buying copper or aluminum parts is the high cost.

    Regardless of the material, each system consists of pipes, collection funnels, corners and gutters. consists in assembling them according to a pre-made diagram and fastening. The parts are connected using adapters with gaskets.

    There are adhesive systems on the market, but they are more difficult to assemble than snap-on designs. The latter for additional reliability can be "insured" from the inside with a roofing sealant

    It is important that all the necessary components of the weir are found in one outlet and from one manufacturer. The absence of something can slow down the installation process.

    When choosing gutter fittings, do not experiment with attempts to adapt handicraft items to the circumstances. It is better to immediately dwell on products from trusted manufacturers.

    Items with a rectangular section will come across on sale. They are usually 10-15% cheaper than round ones, but are more difficult to install and require an appropriate facade design. They are appropriate for avoiding ledges or bad corners.

    When choosing a material, reliability is also important rafter system, it must be able to support the weight of the weir. If in doubt, opt for lightweight polymer structures.

    Features of the installation of elements

    The time depends on the stage of construction / installation work. During the construction of the building, it is installed before laying the covering. During the period of the repair, if a roof change was not planned, installation is performed at any time, but the gutter brackets in this case are attached to the frontal board, and not to the rafters.

    Until recently, only under-roof fasteners existed. Today you can find different types hooks, brackets that allow you to collect drainage before and after installation of the roof.

    The general installation algorithm looks like this:

    1. The location of vertical pipes is determined, taking into account the placement of doors and windows. Usually these are the corners of the building or the center of the facade (if the length of one wall is more than 18-20 m).
    2. Funnels are installed at the lowest point of the gutter.
    3. Brackets are mounted. The main holders are placed 10-15 cm from the funnels, the rest - at the same distance 40-60 cm from each other.
    4. The gutter is placed in the brackets, taking into account the expansion of the selected material.
    5. The gutter connectors are mounted between the brackets, observing a distance of 10-15 cm.
    6. The gutter is connected with funnels. If the gutter consists of several parts, it is more convenient to first assemble them, and then fix them along a conditional line that continues the roof. Distance - about 1 cm from the edge of the roof.
    7. Corners and plugs are mounted. If the angle at the roof is not straight, adjustable parts are selected, which are trimmed along the pivot lines. This is how bay windows get along.
    8. Pipes are installed 3-8 cm from the wall of the building. Plastic or metal clamps fixing the drain to the facade.

    The distance from the final drain to - from 15 cm, to the ground - from 25 cm. If set below, there will be a risk of ice formation inside the pipes, which can lead to rupture.

    From the wall to the pipes, an indent of at least 3 cm must be observed so that the surface does not get damp. To bypass architectural elements or change the direction of the flow, it is permissible to use a 135 degree elbow.

    Installation of a plastic drain is carried out at a temperature of +5 degrees and above. can be performed at any time safe for roofers, regardless of temperature indicators. After the installation is complete, the system is ready for use.

    Maintenance of finished structures

    Modern materials do not need regular staining or processing with special compounds. In order for the gutter system to do its job well, it must be regularly cleaned of dirt and debris. This is usually done once a year in the fall.

    A common cleaning method is to use a hose, when all impurities are simply washed off by the pressure of water. There are also robotic devices for the care of plums on sale. They are equipped with an intelligent system that independently calculates when and how many times you need to "drive" along the chutes in order to remove all the garbage.

    If you do not monitor the condition of the drain, debris can block the flows, the liquid will begin to accumulate in problem areas and flow out through the edges of the gutters. Additional stress on the pipes will lead to breakage of elements and collapse of the structure.

    In order to prevent the formation of ice jams in gutters and vertical pipes, it is recommended to set. The article recommended by us will acquaint you with the nuances of his choice and installation rules.

    Conclusions and useful video on the topic

    Components and features of the installation of a plastic drain.

    What happens to the drain if it is not cleaned of dirt in time.

    To reliably protect a house from moisture, a drain alone is not enough. You need to take care of the drainage system, which includes storm trays, grates on them, sand traps, reservoirs for collecting liquid.