• What can be cooked from squid: fast and tasty

    How to dress for a winter hike?


    1. Shoes



    2. Socks


    3. Bottom layer


    4. Middle layer


    5. Top layer




    6. Puff


    7. Hat


    8. Gloves



    1. Tent







    2. Sleeping bag

    3. Mat



    Sokolov Andrey

    Many novice hikers are afraid to go hiking in winter. It can be hard for a person who has never slept outside the house to believe that spending the night in a tent, and even in winter, will not be associated with terrible hardships and discomfort. I can say with confidence that a poorly organized overnight stay in summer can cause much more discomfort and deprivation than a well-organized overnight stay in a winter forest in severe frost. There is one little secret here: there is no bad weather! There are only bad clothes and the wrong equipment!

    How to dress for a winter hike?

    Going on a simple hike in the summer, it is enough to take with you a few changeable T-shirts, shorts, a hat, a jacket for the evening, comfortable sneakers and a raincoat. The choice of clothing for a winter hike should be approached in more detail and responsibly. But there is no need to go to extremes! The Internet is replete with articles about the choice of modern hiking equipment, after reading which, you may get the impression that if you do not have two hundred thousand to buy this very equipment, then it is better not to go hiking at all. Of course, this is not so. Modern equipment in most cases is actually very useful and convenient, but do not overestimate it. It is much more important to use any equipment correctly, be it felt boots or membrane climbing boots.


    1. Shoes

    It should always have two pairs. I wet one on the way, put on dry ones in the camp in the evening, and dry the first pair by the fire. If you are going skiing, then in addition to ski boots, you can take warm trekking boots with you. As a second pair of “camping” shoes, you can use felt boots or even sneakers. Modern membrane hiking shoes do not like drying by an open fire, so it makes sense to take a few sheets of dry newspaper from home (you can replace it with dry grass) and stuff it inside the boots in the evening. It is worth remembering that such a drying system only works at positive temperatures (for example, inside a tent). Any shoes should be broken in before the hike, and there must be a band-aid in the first aid kit. Hiking winter boots should have a good size margin, enough to put on a thick woolen sock, and the foot would feel free at the same time. In winter, gaiters are worn over boots (including ski boots) - special products made of lightweight fabric that cover the leg from the ankle to the knee (there are different lengths) and prevent snow from getting inside the shoe. With them, you are not afraid of the deepest snowdrifts!

    2. Socks

    A very important piece of equipment for a winter hike. As the bottom layer, you can wear ordinary cotton socks, or buy special tracking (synthetic) ones with a reinforced heel and toe. If the boots are warm, and the frost is not very strong, this may already be enough. But you should always have 1-2 pairs of "grandmother's" woolen socks with you - nothing has been invented warmer and more reliable. Wool has good thermal insulation properties even when wet, but this does not mean that if you fall through the ice in winter, you can not take off woolen socks. Any socks should be dry and that is why you should have several spare pairs in your backpack - situations are different. Don't forget to bring woolen socks with you when you go shopping for new shoes. It is necessary to measure shoes for winter hiking on a thick toe! On a hike, you can dry your socks by the fire, or, in extreme cases, on yourself: put wet socks in your sleeping bag and they will dry overnight like on a radiator.


    3. Bottom layer

    This thermal underwear is pants and a jacket. Their main purpose is to remove moisture from the body into the upper layers of clothing. An extremely useful piece of equipment. One of the options for classifying thermal underwear is according to the degree of expected activity: you will be skiing, mountaineering or going to winter fishing- thermal underwear will be different.

    4. Middle layer

    Fleece jacket and pants. The main purpose of the middle layer is thermoregulation. Previously, we all used wool sweaters for these purposes, but technology does not stand still and a new one has appeared. modern material- fleece, which is a synthetic "wool" made of polyester, which does not absorb moisture, but conducts it. In addition, fleece products are lightweight, durable and perfectly keep warm. There are quite a few varieties of fleece now, but some of the most famous are Polartec and Windstopper. The latter has a special windproof membrane.

    5. Top layer

    This is a storm jacket and pants, the main purpose of which is wind and moisture protection. Modern storm jackets often feature Gore-Tex membrane fabric, the hallmark of which is absolute moisture protection without losing breathability. These are the perfect jackets for any winter activity - skiing. skiing and snowboarding, mountain climbing, skiing or hiking. But such jackets are quite expensive, and you feel somehow uncomfortable in it, sitting near a fire pouring sparks. Therefore, for classic hikes with chopping firewood, making fires and other camping delights, it is better to use something simpler. Easier doesn't mean worse.


    6. Puff

    In winter, it is sometimes worth wearing a down jacket over storm clothing. On a ski trip, this is necessary at a halt - in order not to cool down, or in the evening in the camp. It will almost certainly be too hot to move around in a puff, but it should always be in a backpack! With such a kit, you are not afraid of even very severe frost.

    7. Hat

    A fleece or wool hat is very comfortable. It's good to have a spare. In severe frost or during a snowstorm, in addition to a hat, a special fabric mask is used - a balaclava.

    8. Gloves

    Fleece gloves are very comfortable on the hands - both in autumn and in winter. If it gets cold in them, then you can change into thicker gloves with insulation, but better - into mittens. The warmest are downy. Be sure to bring a spare pair of gloves or mittens with you.
    Now you have a good idea about choosing clothes for a winter hike. Of course, this is not exhaustive information. For each of the points, you can write a separate article, but I'm not sure that this makes much sense. Everything else will come with experience.

    Ok, with clothes it is clear. What equipment will be needed?

    For a one-day winter hike, it is enough to dress properly, take some food and a thermos of hot tea with you. But what to take with you if you decide to spend the night in the winter forest? To organize such an overnight stay, you will need a few more items of equipment.


    1. Tent

    The tent is your camping home. And you can sleep in a tent not only in summer, but also in winter! Some tents are specially designed for this and have the ability to install in their design. camp stove. In such a tent, you can stay in one T-shirt, even when it is very cold outside. But you need to be extremely careful when heating such a stove! There are two main ways: to melt the stove in the evening, wait until all the firewood burns out, and only then go to bed. In this case, in the morning it will be cold in the tent. The second option is to stay on duty throughout the night. Everyone watches the stove for 2 hours and throws firewood. A tent with a stove is ideal for difficult and long winter hikes in the forest zone.

    If you do not have such a tent - it does not matter. You can go on a short trip and spend the night comfortably in the forest in the winter with an ordinary “trekking” tent. Here it is worth saying a few words about the classification of tents.

    All their diversity can be divided into three main categories: camping tents (from the English camp - camp), trekking tents (from the English track - path) and extreme tents. The first are designed for small family outings in good summer weather. Such tents are usually large - you can stand in them at full height, have several bedrooms, an indoor dining room and other amenities. They often buy folding furniture and some kind of jeep, because it is extremely inconvenient to carry all this on oneself. Example camping tent: Nordway Dalen

    The second type of tents is perhaps the most numerous and versatile. If you have a certain route ahead of you and you have to carry things on yourself, then it is best to opt for a trekking tent. They are distinguished small size and light weight, aerodynamic shape, simplicity and strength of the design. In a good trekking tent, you will feel comfortable in strong winds, rain, and even frost. High-altitude climbing camps on the seven-thousanders of the Pamirs and Tien Shan, where the night temperature sometimes drops to -30, are often equipped with just such tents. Classic example: Red Fox Challenger.

    Extreme tents look very similar to trekking ones. Their main difference is the use of top technologies and materials (which allows, for example, to reduce weight as much as possible) and high price. They are usually used in the mountains and other difficult expeditions. I will say from my own experience that the difference between living in a good and a very good tent tends to zero, but the price of the latter is several times higher. Extreme tent example: MSR StormKing

    So, you have chosen your tent. But how to sleep in such a tent in winter and not freeze? There is no stove! If there is no additional source of heat in the form of a stove, our task is to preserve our own heat as much as possible - use a good sleeping bag and not sleep alone in a tent. Actually, all this also applies to spending the night in a tent with a stove. Three people in warm sleeping bags in a triple tent will feel comfortable even in severe frost. The problem will most likely not be with the cold, but with the condensate that appeared as a result of the temperature difference inside the tent and “overboard”. In a two-layer tent, condensation usually falls on the outside of the inner layer and is not a big deal. If the condensate falls inside and there is obviously too much of it - improve the ventilation of the tent - there are special ventilation “windows” for this. This can also be done by lifting the lower edge of the outer awning (or “skirt”) higher off the ground, or by unzipping the inner zipper. It is also worth saying that you can use a gas burner or lamp inside the tent only with extreme caution and always with very good ventilation (open entrance)!

    2. Sleeping bag

    3. Mat

    A rug is the third most important element of equipment for a comfortable overnight stay in nature. Be sure to buy an insulating rug - you can’t sleep on the ground, and even more so on the snow (the bottom of the tent does not protect from the cold) in one sleeping bag! Modern manufacturers provide us with a huge selection of rugs - inflatable, self-inflating, polyurethane - of various shapes, thicknesses and designs. Modern inflatable / self-inflating mats are quite reliable and comfortable, but they have one big disadvantage - a high price. Therefore, you can safely use the simplest classic polyurethane rugs (“foam”) - they will not let you down and you certainly will not feel sorry for them. For a winter hike, take a thicker rug - from 10mm and above. Such a rug has sufficient heat-insulating properties to sleep comfortably even in the snow. And you don’t need to chop Christmas trees in the old fashioned way and lay spruce branches under the tent!

    With the right set of equipment and clothes, a winter hike will only be a joy, and an overnight stay will be comfortable and safe!

    Sokolov Andrey
    City Escape tourist club instructor

    Related Products: 10010-CH-M, 50039-PB-32T, 10018-BK-M, 50069-DT-XXL, 50032-DT-S, 50070-WS-M, 70002-OS-M, 30028-PB-M, 30013- WS-XXL, 30012-MS-M,

    Part one: when we go.

    This article is about expedition equipment for a ski trip in Chukotka, but it will be of interest not only to skiers, but also to lovers of other outdoor activities: winter hunting, snowshoeing, mountaineering, etc., because general principles camping wardrobe organization is the same.

    Ski expeditions are divided into two phases of activity: "walking" and "stopping". Based on this, clothing for a ski expedition is selected.

    But if everything was so simple, then it would not be worth writing this article. There is a "small" nuance - temperature. I’ll make a reservation right away, by temperature, I understand the perceived temperature, which, unlike the laboratory one, additionally takes into account the influence of wind and humidity. The variation of the scale of perceived temperature in Chukotka in the period from January to April can be over 50 degrees: from zero, or initial numbers of positive values, to -50 degrees. But usually, during expeditions lasting from 2 to 4 weeks, this figure does not exceed a thirty-degree difference.

    In the past, my expedition wardrobe was different: pants from one manufacturer, a jacket from another, insulation was generally made by hardworking inhabitants of the Celestial Empire. But now, for the second winter season, I'm testing Sitka. So how do I test? I go and rejoice. There is a reason. Now I don't have a choice, which item to take? Choice always creates doubt. Doubts, in turn, breed mistakes: either you take more clothes, which negatively affects the volume and weight of the equipment, or you don’t get something, which is also sad, because it’s cold. General characteristics for equipment "Sitka" can be characterized by three theses: compact, light, warm. Moreover, each of these points is self-sufficient and important. From general phrases, we move on to specifics.

    Phase "Let's Go"

    Skiing is one of the most energy-intensive activities. In addition to the actual ski movement itself, the ski expeditioners in "tug" drag drags with cargo. Empirically, I came to the conclusion: 1 kg of cargo in a drag, approximately corresponds to 1% of the additional energy-consuming load. This rule applies when the weight of the drags varies between 10-60 kg, i.e. if the weight of the shovel is half a centner and you have to walk 10 km, then this is about the same as 15 km without the shovel. Power consumption increases significantly when aggravating circumstances are introduced: loose snow, headwinds, climbs, etc.

    Why do I focus on the power consumption factor? Because it is one of the key indicators in choosing clothes. The higher this figure, the less clothing is required. It is 20 degrees outside, and the skier is half-dressed, because the skier is the same engine that needs to cool the body from overheating.

    In the "let's go" phase, there are 3 conditional temperature zones that affect the amount of traveler's clothes.

    Temperature above -8/-10 degrees.

    Accessories: usually none, except for a fleece headband.

    Temperature from -10 to -20/-23.

    The most comfortable temperature for an expedition skier, especially in the upper values ​​​​of this indicator. It is characterized by the most effective indicator of ski activity efficiency.

    It is worth noting that the top is the most mobile part of the equipment, which, in the event of an increase or decrease in temperature, can very easily be strengthened or lightened.

    Temperature from -20 to -35/40

    This is the limit zone for a relatively comfortable ski trip, beyond which the extreme zone begins. low temperatures, walking at which, in principle, it is possible, but not necessary, because it is not advisable. Energy consumption becomes prohibitively high, and the efficiency of movement is extremely low. In this temperature zone, unlike the previous ones, it is already cold. Actually, these temperatures can be considered frost. The freezing process starts after stopping after 5 minutes or less. At the extreme negative, freezing begins immediately after stopping. Hands get cold even after taking gloves off for a short time. Face mask is required. In the presence of wind, ski goggles are also worn.

    Accessories: insulated gloves or mittens, hat-helmet, fleece face mask.

    Thermoregulation at upper temperature values ​​(-20-25) is carried out with the help of side zippers on the trousers and unbuttoning the jacket.

    Part two: when we stand.

    No matter how breathable clothing is, it cannot take all the moisture away from the body, so during our activity, whether it's a ski trip or a long hike, clothes become wet. While we are walking it is not scary, but as soon as we stop it is necessary to warm up.

    Phase "stand"

    Of course, by "stand" I do not mean complete inaction. This is the phase of the end of vigorous activity and it happens in two cases: during a stop for "tips" and during the setting up of the camp.

    "Tips"

    A person cannot move all the time. He, or rather his muscles need rest. You need to stop and rest even when you are not tired yet. Because if the muscles are thoroughly hammered, it will be impossible to restore them during a short rest. In addition, the body can "respond" to non-stop transitions with a collapse and then the person is very quickly "covered" by fatigue. Once, though it was summer, I was "covered". Moreover, about ten minutes before that, I was still cheerful and gave myself the intention to walk three kilometers. It was evening time, but the sun was just beginning to set. I ended up walking a little over a mile. And the last three hundred meters walked for 20 minutes! The number of stops and their duration depends on the chosen strategy of your trip. Usually, I try to make stops after 40-50 minutes of walking, both in summer and in winter. Stop time 5-10 minutes.

    In order to have a comfortable rest time and not overcool, you need to warm up. For this purpose, in an easily accessible place, a jacket / vest and self-dumping trousers are placed on the drags. The peculiarity of this stopping phase is that our walking clothes are not removed.

    The most disgusting thing is to finish the "tea". The body only got used to the heat, and then again you have to undress and for some amount of time again "enter" the working temperature regime. But if the gull was long and the temperature was low, you can start moving in insulated equipment, and after warming up, stop and take it off.

    "Camping Out"

    This is the most enjoyable part of the hike. As soon as you reach the place of spending the night, you must immediately warm up. You should not linger with this matter, because if you first enjoy the delights of life: drink tea, smoke, look at starry sky or a beautiful sunset, then by the time you are about to change clothes, the body has already thoroughly cooled down and you will have to move pretty much to re-warm. And this is extra energy. In the campaign, everything must obey the principle of expediency, and the main expediency is not to waste energy. In addition, having changed clothes immediately, while the body is still hot and emits a large amount of heat, the process of drying thermal underwear on oneself begins. Ideally, it is better to replace a wet termuha with a dry one (there should always be two pairs in a camping kit), but if the ambient temperature is below -20 degrees, then such changes of linen are impractical.

    In terms of changing clothes during camping, there is a nuance. The upper "skin" (jacket and trousers), in which you actively moved, must be removed and put on things made of fluff or synthetics instead. And the removed things should be thoroughly shaken out and knocked out, cleaned of frost, paying special attention to the inside of the clothes. This remark applies to the period when it is below -20 degrees below zero outside. The degree of insulation depends on the ambient temperature. My full set insulation consists of:

    After changing clothes, you can with a clean soul, a warm body and good mood drink tea from a thermos that has already cooled down by the evening, admire surrounding nature, look at the odometer of the navigator and say out loud: "What a fine fellow I (we) are." Next will be setting up a tent and other pleasant evening chores. And if another day is planned for tomorrow, with fishing or hunting, then the joy will be boundless.

    Travelers have such a tradition to talk about equipment and equipment after hiking. This tradition is ancient, going back to the Sumerians and Phoenicians. The exact information about what the pioneers wrote about did not reach us, but I have no doubt that they certainly wrote. Firstly, this is sacred knowledge, which every member of the sect of travelers, and all travelers are sectarians of the religion of travel, otherwise the desire for vagrancy is inexplicable, must pass on their knowledge to the next generation. And secondly, everything that you took with you and how it worked, you must certainly fix it on paper, otherwise after a while you yourself will forget what, what and how.

    I do not intend to break traditions, so I tell you what I took and how it worked.

    Equipment

    Double tent "Basque"CLIF. To begin with, this is not a winter tent. Without a snow skirt and has an installation form that is extremely inconvenient for winter conditions: first a canopy, then an awning. Why this particular tent? It's simple, from the all-season I have only three rubles, and dragging a three-ruble note on a solo campaign is an unnecessary luxury. But despite the non-specific conditions, the tent withstood the test perfectly. "Terrain" - the number of places in a tent, in winter conditions, is calculated with a coefficient of 1.5, from the summer one. A summer dvushka is a wonderful winter odnushka, and a summer treshka is a comfortable winter dvushka. After I "hooked" on the Basque tents (Bonzer, "Friend", "Vostok"), in which the awning and canopy are put up at the same time (the floor can be unfastened when necessary), tents going "in parts", from the beginning, the canopy, then the awning, I am perplexed: why are they still being made? This is not convenient at first. In a good snowstorm, collecting such a tent in one person is still a test. Will the awning fly or not fly, that's what question.

    Well, the fact that during a snowstorm, outstanding snowdrifts were packed under the awning, which squeezed the walls so that the tent was halved in volume, I have nothing to blame. She is not designed for the winter, there is no skirt.

    One constructive detail in this tent is still not clear to me. When it is installed on the roof, a recess is formed. And where there is even a small depression, precipitation will accumulate. In my case it is snow. Maybe I put it somehow wrong?

    But in general, I have no complaints about the tent. This is already the third long solo hike (the first winter one) in which I go with this tent. The fact that it is still intact and functional says a lot.

    2. Tent "Basque Cliff"

    Volokusha: SO-5 (Nor-Plast) 155x55x15. About drags, I already wrote something. This model, which I borrowed from my friend Timur Akhmetov ("forcing" him to go skiing with a backpack), is good in everything, except for the height of the sides and the low nose. I have already told about my ordeals on sastrugi.

    3. Volokushi

    Gas. Rarely, when it turns out to carry out the throwing of equipment to the starting point on the ground. This trip was that very rare time, so I had the opportunity to deliver threaded gas cylinders (Coleman) from Anadyr to Egvekinot. Kolmanovsky gas is more tolerant to negative temperatures and burns "more evenly" than Chinese (Korean) gas in collet cylinders, due to a better gas mixture. I took the gas with a good margin - 7 large threaded cylinders and 2 collets. Used only three. There are two reasons for this: in some places there was water, so cooking required less fuel, and the relatively warm weather also helped save fuel than it could have been.

    Gas-burner. I strongly recommend to anyone who is going to buy gas burners to pay attention to the domestic company Pathfinder. The company is domestic, and the burners are made in the Czech Republic. The burners are very solid (there are several types). The safety margin of equipment in winter campaigns must be present, so I had two burners available: "Volcano" and "Talking Fire". The functionality of both is flawless. Absolutely no worse than Koveevsky, and the price tag is more than two times lower.

    4. The process of cooking food on a gas burner

    Gunand 15 rounds. He returned home with a gun and the same 15 rounds of ammunition.

    Rug "Termarest Camper deluxe". 196x63x6.3. Well, there has to be a first time for everything. I did not take a reindeer skin on this trip, I decided to test a self-inflating rug in winter conditions. Very conflicting feelings. On the one hand, all the inconveniences that the skin caused: the smell, the constantly falling out wool that was everywhere, the large volume, the rug ruled out. The thermal qualities are slightly worse than those of the skin, but not by much, because it is still spring outside and there were no prohibitively low temperatures (the manufacturer recommends using a rug up to -22 degrees). The trouble, or rather problems, arose with self-inflating. At temperatures below -12-15 degrees, this process is almost completely absent. Therefore, the rug lost the prefix "self" and was simply inflated. As a result, I came to the conclusion that for such spring trips, you can still use such rugs, but you should not take it on winter trips. In winter, the skin is more reliable and warmer.

    5. The process of self-inflating the mat

    ski equipment. Skis "Fischer" E109 (190 cm), boots "Fisher" VSH 5, poles "Blackdiamond". In January of this year, I moved to the next ski level, which is called "Back Country" or encrypted in the English abbreviation BC. I was pleased with everything, both the width and the strength of the skis, and the presence of a metal edging on them, and a more reliable fastening system, which allows, albeit not for skiing, but still to carry out confident descents from the mountains. Pleased until I went to them on the first trip. It was in January, the weather was very negative. From that January campaign I came humiliated and offended. Humiliated, because the shoes put hellish pressure on the ankle (outer knuckle), insulted, because the material on the shoes burst at the bend of the foot. And it's called professional winter boots! There was an assumption that they are simply not designed for temperatures below 30. Apparently, the way it is. After a long analysis of the cause that caused pain to the ankle, I came to the conclusion that the side brace for the laces was to blame. Without hesitation, picking up a multi-tool, I tore the hell out of these staples (on both boots). And about a miracle! The pain is gone. Apart from the fact that there are now holes in the boots from the staples and the material has burst on them, everything else is just fine. Good equipment, comfortable and reliable.

    6. Skiing

    7.

    Sleeping bag "Basque" Challenger"(thermolight extreme insulation). I am using this sleeping bag for the first time. In general, the sleeping bag is not bad for this time of year. Only the meaning of the long regulator of the collar part of the sleeping bag is not clear. A half-meter lace is clearly redundant.

    8. The only day when you could dry your sleeping bag in the morning

    Equipment.

    A person, at least partially familiar with outdoor equipment, immediately recognized from the photographs what I was wearing. Yes, this is Sitka, high-tech and expensive clothing from an American brand that specializes in equipment for hunters and fishermen. For the active outdoors, these clothes are adapted no less than in their marketing profile. I have already described the properties and qualities of this equipment more than once. For those who are interested, we are looking for relevant articles under the tag "equipment and equipment". The clothes work. Moreover, it works in the most severe conditions and is not the first season. This is the main argument. That's it, nothing more to add.

    9. Outerwear from the "Sitka Coldfront" series

    And here I would like to step aside a little and answer questions from readers. Readers asked the question: why don't you wear traditional fur clothes? It is warm, people living in the north have been walking in it for centuries. For centuries, people have traveled in carts, but today everyone prefers a car. A penny of our civilization and technological progress if by the 21st century mankind had not come up with clothes that surpass traditional ones in their properties. And the best minds and hands of mankind have come up with such clothes. It happened not so long ago, in the second half of the last century. And this clothing and technology came to Russia "yesterday", about twenty years ago.
    What is the main disadvantage of fur clothing? She is very demanding. Mechanical clothing is categorically afraid of moisture. Therefore, it is always removed and stored in the cold. The clothes require constant maintenance and repair. "Appendix" to fur clothing in traditional way of life reindeer herders was a woman who constantly repaired and hemmed these clothes. The service life of fur clothing, with its active use, is one season, then winter clothes becomes summer. And most importantly - the purpose of these clothes. The way of life of the reindeer Chukchi did not imply active hiking. The reindeer herder spent his whole life on his feet. But his life was around the herd. Yes, you can burrow into the snow in these clothes and wait out the blizzard, but skiing for many days in a row is a dubious pleasure. Long trips were made on teams: dog or reindeer. Yes, as a clothing for statics, it is beautiful, deer hollow hair is an excellent heat insulator. In the case when there was activity in the fur clothing, ventilation was carried out through the hem and collar. This effective method fight moisture, but extremely uncomfortable for modern man. Put on a jacket on a naked body without fastening the collar and without tightening the bottom of the jacket and go out into the wind. Yep, more fun.

    In modern clothes, all of the above problematic moments are not. It is warm, light, breathable, easy to dry, durable and so on and so forth. The only thing is that today fur clothing can be used as snowmobile clothing, where there is long-term static. But even today kukhlyankas and fur pants are used as an upper, additional layer under modern overalls.

    But as clothing for reindeer herders, fur clothing is still indispensable today.

    10. Fur suit

    Related Products: 10010-CH-M, 50039-PB-32T, 10018-BK-M, 50069-DT-XXL, 50032-DT-S, 50070-WS-M, 70002-OS-M, 30028-PB-M, 30013- WS-XXL, 30012-MS-M,

    Part one: when we go.

    This article is about expedition equipment for a ski trip in Chukotka, but it will be of interest not only to skiers, but also to lovers of other outdoor activities: winter hunting, snowshoeing, mountaineering, etc., because the general principles of organizing a hiking wardrobe are the same.

    Ski expeditions are divided into two phases of activity: "walking" and "stopping". Based on this, clothing for a ski expedition is selected.

    But if everything was so simple, then it would not be worth writing this article. There is a "small" nuance - temperature. I’ll make a reservation right away, by temperature, I understand the perceived temperature, which, unlike the laboratory one, additionally takes into account the influence of wind and humidity. The variation of the scale of perceived temperature in Chukotka in the period from January to April can be over 50 degrees: from zero, or initial numbers of positive values, to -50 degrees. But usually, during expeditions lasting from 2 to 4 weeks, this figure does not exceed a thirty-degree difference.

    In the past, my expedition wardrobe was different: pants from one manufacturer, a jacket from another, insulation was generally made by hardworking inhabitants of the Celestial Empire. But now, for the second winter season, I'm testing Sitka. So how do I test? I go and rejoice. There is a reason. Now I don't have a choice, which item to take? Choice always creates doubt. Doubts, in turn, breed mistakes: either you take more clothes, which negatively affects the volume and weight of the equipment, or you don’t get something, which is also sad, because it’s cold. The general characteristic for the Sitka equipment can be characterized by three theses: compact, light, warm. Moreover, each of these points is self-sufficient and important. From general phrases, we move on to specifics.

    Phase "Let's Go"

    Skiing is one of the most energy-intensive activities. In addition to the actual ski movement itself, the ski expeditioners in "tug" drag drags with cargo. Empirically, I came to the conclusion: 1 kg of cargo in a drag, approximately corresponds to 1% of the additional energy-consuming load. This rule applies when the weight of the drags varies between 10-60 kg, i.e. if the weight of the shovel is half a centner and you have to walk 10 km, then this is about the same as 15 km without the shovel. Power consumption increases significantly when aggravating circumstances are introduced: loose snow, headwinds, climbs, etc.

    Why do I focus on the power consumption factor? Because it is one of the key indicators in choosing clothes. The higher this figure, the less clothing is required. It is 20 degrees outside, and the skier is half-dressed, because the skier is the same engine that needs to cool the body from overheating.

    In the "let's go" phase, there are 3 conditional temperature zones that affect the amount of traveler's clothes.

    Temperature above -8/-10 degrees.

    Accessories: usually none, except for a fleece headband.

    Temperature from -10 to -20/-23.

    The most comfortable temperature for an expedition skier, especially in the upper values ​​​​of this indicator. It is characterized by the most effective indicator of ski activity efficiency.

    It is worth noting that the top is the most mobile part of the equipment, which, in the event of an increase or decrease in temperature, can very easily be strengthened or lightened.

    Temperature from -20 to -35/40

    This is the limiting zone for a relatively comfortable ski trip, beyond which the zone of extremely low temperatures begins, at which walking is possible in principle, but not necessary, because it is not advisable. Energy consumption becomes prohibitively high, and the efficiency of movement is extremely low. In this temperature zone, unlike the previous ones, it is already cold. Actually, these temperatures can be considered frost. The freezing process starts after stopping after 5 minutes or less. At the extreme negative, freezing begins immediately after stopping. Hands get cold even after taking gloves off for a short time. Face mask is required. In the presence of wind, ski goggles are also worn.

    Accessories: insulated gloves or mittens, hat-helmet, fleece face mask.

    Thermoregulation at upper temperature values ​​(-20-25) is carried out with the help of side zippers on the trousers and unbuttoning the jacket.

    Part two: when we stand.

    No matter how breathable clothing is, it cannot take all the moisture away from the body, so during our activity, whether it's a ski trip or a long hike, clothes become wet. While we are walking it is not scary, but as soon as we stop it is necessary to warm up.

    Phase "stand"

    Of course, by "stand" I do not mean complete inaction. This is the phase of the end of vigorous activity and it happens in two cases: during a stop for "tips" and during the setting up of the camp.

    "Tips"

    A person cannot move all the time. He, or rather his muscles need rest. You need to stop and rest even when you are not tired yet. Because if the muscles are thoroughly hammered, it will be impossible to restore them during a short rest. In addition, the body can "respond" to non-stop transitions with a collapse and then the person is very quickly "covered" by fatigue. Once, though it was summer, I was "covered". Moreover, about ten minutes before that, I was still cheerful and gave myself the intention to walk three kilometers. It was evening time, but the sun was just beginning to set. I ended up walking a little over a mile. And the last three hundred meters walked for 20 minutes! The number of stops and their duration depends on the chosen strategy of your trip. Usually, I try to make stops after 40-50 minutes of walking, both in summer and in winter. Stop time 5-10 minutes.

    In order to have a comfortable rest time and not overcool, you need to warm up. For this purpose, in an easily accessible place, a jacket / vest and self-dumping trousers are placed on the drags. The peculiarity of this stopping phase is that our walking clothes are not removed.

    The most disgusting thing is to finish the "tea". The body just got used to the heat, and then again you have to undress and for a certain amount of time again "enter" the working temperature regime. But if the gull was long and the temperature was low, you can start moving in insulated equipment, and after warming up, stop and take it off.

    "Camping Out"

    This is the most enjoyable part of the hike. As soon as you reach the place of spending the night, you must immediately warm up. You should not linger with this matter, because if you first enjoy the delights of life: drink tea, smoke, look at the starry sky or a beautiful sunset, then by the time you are about to change clothes, the body will already have cooled down thoroughly and you will have to move pretty much to warm up again. And this is extra energy. In the campaign, everything must obey the principle of expediency, and the main expediency is not to waste energy. In addition, having changed clothes immediately, while the body is still hot and emits a large amount of heat, the process of drying thermal underwear on oneself begins. Ideally, it is better to replace a wet termuha with a dry one (there should always be two pairs in a camping kit), but if the ambient temperature is below -20 degrees, then such changes of linen are impractical.

    In terms of changing clothes during camping, there is a nuance. The upper "skin" (jacket and trousers), in which you actively moved, must be removed and put on things made of fluff or synthetics instead. And the removed things should be thoroughly shaken out and knocked out, cleaned of frost, paying special attention to the inside of the clothes. This remark applies to the period when it is below -20 degrees below zero outside. The degree of insulation depends on the ambient temperature. My complete set of insulation consists of:

    After changing clothes, you can drink tea from a thermos that has already cooled by the evening with a clean soul, a warm body and a good mood, admire the surrounding nature, look at the odometer of the navigator and say out loud: "What a fine fellow (we) I am (we are)." Next will be setting up a tent and other pleasant evening chores. And if another day is planned for tomorrow, with fishing or hunting, then the joy will be boundless.


    A winter hike differs from a hike at any other time of the year in its complexity, because it can be a test for both a person and his equipment.

    It is important to choose clothing that will keep you warm and keep you warm, while still providing you with exceptional comfort. Really suitable clothing rarely reminds of itself and sits naturally on the body, flawlessly performing its functions.

    First of all, when choosing equipment for a winter hike, you should get information about the climate and temperature not only during the day, but also at night. It is also important where exactly you plan to spend the night, because if it is a tent, you should dress warmer than in the case of spending the night in a house. It is during the night period that it becomes especially cold, and the equipment that saved so well from the cold during the day may no longer be enough at night. As for the climate, it will be different in the Caucasus and Crimea, in the first case there will be strong wind and temperatures that often drop below 20 degrees below zero.

    1. Forget about sneakers and city boots once and for all, because they will not protect you from cold or high humidity. Berets - not at once, even winter ones. EVA boots are better. In general, it is desirable to have shoes for the transition and parking. Never save on shoes, even if this piece of equipment is already one of the most expensive.
    2. Always wear shoe covers over your shoes, because they will protect your shoes from damage and getting wet, as well as getting snow inside the boot. It is better to buy ready-made shoe covers in a store specializing in the sale of tourist equipment. But if you wish, you can always make shoe covers with your own hands.
    3. Socks - it is better to take 6-8 pairs of cotton socks with you on a hike, and also do not forget about warm thermal socks. They are enough for 2-3 pairs. When walking the best option will be wearing two pairs of socks. First you put on cotton socks, and on top of them - thermal socks. As soon as you feel that your socks have become wet, immediately change them to dry ones, because wearing wet socks is a direct way to freezing.
    4. Winter tents come in many varieties, but the best choice is a two-layer tent with a wide vestibule and strong aluminum poles that will be resistant to sudden gusts of wind. Why do the arches have to be aluminum? It's simple - this metal is not sensitive to cold, and therefore, if the tent is covered with snow, the arcs will not break.
    5. In addition, it is worth paying special attention to the choice of a backpack, the capacity of which should not be less than 90 liters.
    6. If you are going with a company, take a normal boiler so that you can boil water for everyone and cook food normally. And then you have to boil water in a pot in which the stew has just been cooked.
    7. Take a map and a regular compass. GPS navigators can let you down by constantly pointing in different directions, and you will walk in circles.
    8. For a company, take two or three axes and a chain saw. Look for a place to sleep near the dead wood, then you will not feel the need for firewood.
    9. Do not always believe what the manufacturer writes on gas cylinders. In severe frost, gas can simply freeze. For such cases, it is better to use lamps and stoves on liquid fuel!
    10. Zapad hot water in the morning, even in a thermos, it's pointless. Because by morning, while you are sleeping, the water will freeze anyway, and the thermos will simply burst.
    11. From food, in addition to stew, we can advise chopped pork. Pieces with fat sprinkled with salt and fried in small portions in a miniature frying pan. Excellent fatty, high-calorie food for such conditions! Satisfying, warming and regenerating!
    12. Silver curtains around a fire are a very useful thing.
    13. Ordinary construction gloves will be very useful. For working with firewood, that's it. They don't get in the way and keep your hands warm.