What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Hello Habra Gentlemen and Habra Ladies!
I think some of you are familiar with the situation:
“Car, traffic jam, N-th hour behind the wheel. The communicator with the navigator running for the third time beeps about the end of the charge, despite the fact that it is always connected to the charger. And you, as an evil, are absolutely not guided in this part of the city. "
Next, I will talk about how, having moderately straight arms, a small set of tools and a little money, to build a universal (suitable for charging with a rated current, both Apple and all other devices), car USB charger for your gadgets.

CAUTION: There are a lot of photos under the cut, a little work, no LUT and no happy end (not yet).

Author, what for all this?

A little about chargers.
Most of the chargers that are on the market, I would divide into four types:
1. Apple - sharpened for Apple devices, equipped with a small charging trick.
2. Conventional - focused on most gadgets, which are short-circuited DATA + and DATA- to consume the rated charge current (the one that is stated on the charger of your gadget).
3. Clueless - with DATA + and DATA- hanging in the air. In this regard, your device decides that it is a USB hub or a computer and does not consume more than 500 mA, which negatively affects the charging speed or even if it is absent under load.
4. Sly%! $ & E - because they have a microcontroller inside them, which tells the device that something from the category that the notorious Kipling's hero told the animals - "You and I are of the same blood," checks the originality of the charging. For all other devices, they are the third type of memory.

The last two options, for obvious reasons, I think are not interesting and even harmful, so we will focus on the first two. Since our charger must be able to charge both apple and all other gadgets, we use two USB outputs, one will be focused on Apple devices, the second on all the others. I will only note that if you mistakenly connect the gadget to a USB outlet that is not intended for it, nothing terrible will happen, it will just take the same notorious 500mA.
So, the goal: "With a little work with your hands, get a universal charger for the car."

What do we need

2. USB socket, I used a double one, which I dropped from the old USB hub.

You can also use regular sockets from a USB extension cable.

3. Prototyping board. In order to solder a USB socket to something and assemble a simple charging circuit for Apple.

4. Resistors or resistances, as you like and one LED. Only 5 pieces, 75 kOhm, 43 kOhm, 2 with 50 kOhm nominal and one at 70 Ohm. On the first 4, the Apple charging circuit is built, I used 70 Ohm to limit the current on the LED.

5. Housing. I found a Mag-Lite flashlight case in the bins of my homeland. In general, a black toothbrush case would be ideal, but I did not find one.

6. Soldering iron, rosin, solder, wire cutters, drill and an hour of free time.

We collect charging

1. First of all, I short-circuited the DATA + and DATA- pins on one of the sockets:

* I apologize for the harshness, I got up early and my body wanted to sleep, and my brain wanted to continue the experiment.

This will be our socket for non-apple gadgets.

2. Cut off the size of the breadboard we need and mark and drill holes in it for the mounting feet of the USB socket, checking in parallel that the contact feet match the holes in the board.

3. Insert the socket, fix it and solder it to the breadboard. We close the + 5V contacts of the first (1) and second (5) sockets with each other, we do the same with the GND contacts (4 and 8).

Photo for clarification only, contacts are already soldered on the breadboard

4. Solder the following circuit on the remaining two contacts DATA + and DATA-:

To observe the polarity, we use the USB pinout:

I got it like this:

Do not forget to adjust the output voltage, using a screwdriver and a voltmeter, set 5 - 5.1V.

I also decided to add an indication to the USB power circuit, in parallel to + 5V and GND, I soldered yellow ice with a 70 Ohm resistor to limit the current.

An earnest request to people with a fine mental organization and other lovers of beauty: "Do not look at the next picture, because the soldering is a curve."

I'm brave!

6. Solder the outputs of the converter to the corresponding inputs on the USB socket. Observe the polarity!

7. We take the case, mark and drill holes for fixing our board, mark and cut out a place for a USB socket and add holes for ventilation opposite the converter microcircuit.

We fasten the breadboard with bolts to the case and we get the following box:

In the Machine it looks like this:

Tests

Looking ahead, I will say that all the devices I have have recognized the charging.
To USB socket number one (which is designed for different gadgets) I connected:
HTC Sensation, HTC Wildfire S, Nokia E72, Nexus 7, Samsung Galaxy ACE2.
For the Sensation and Nexus 7, I checked the charging times, starting at 1% and charging up to 100%.
The smartphone was charged in 1 hour 43 minutes (Anker 1900 mAh battery), I should note that it takes about 2 hours to charge from a standard charge.
The tablet was charged in 3 hours 33 minutes, which is half an hour longer than charging from the mains (I charged only one device at a time).

In order for both Android devices to take maximum out of charging, I had to solder a small adapter (which connected to the apple USB), HTC Sensation was connected to it.

I connected to USB socket number two: Ipod Nano, Ipod Touch 4G, Iphone 4S, Ipad 2. Since it is ridiculous to charge the Nano with such a thing - it took a maximum of 200 mA from me, tested the Touch 4g and the iPad. The iPod took 1 hour and 17 minutes to charge from zero to 100% (though with the iPad 2). The iPad 2 took 4 hours and 46 minutes (one) to charge.

As you can see, the Iphone 4S consumes its rated current with pleasure.

By the way, Ipad 2 surprised me, it absolutely did not shy away from circuits with shorted date contacts and consumed absolutely the same currents as from the socket intended for it.

Charging process and conclusions

The graph is averaged and may vary for different devices.

As you can see from the graph, at the beginning of the charging cycle, the controller allows you to charge with the maximum allowable current for your device and gradually reduces the current. The charge level is determined by voltage, the controllers also monitor the temperature and turn off charging at high values ​​of the latter. Charge controllers can be located in the device itself, in the battery or in the charger (very rarely).
You can read more about charging lithium cells.

Actually, here we come to the point why this topic is called: "Attempt number of times." The fact is that the maximum that I managed to squeeze out of charging is: 1.77A

Well, the reason, in my opinion, is not an optimally selected inductor, which in turn does not allow the Buck - converter to give out its maximum current. I thought about replacing it, but I do not have a tool for soldering SMD and is not expected in the near future. This is not a mistake of the ebay board designers, this is just a feature of this circuit as it is focused on different input and output voltages. Under such conditions, it is simply impossible to deliver the maximum current over the entire voltage range.

As a result, I got a device that can charge two smartphones at the same time or one tablet in the car in a reasonable amount of time.

In connection with the foregoing, it was decided to leave this charge as it is and assemble a new one, completely with our own hands, on the basis of a more powerful converter LM2678,
which in the future will be able to "feed" two tablets and a smartphone at the same time (5A output). But more about that next time!

P.S .:
1. The text may contain punctuation, grammatical and semantic errors, please report them in a personal message.
2. Thoughts, ideas, technical corrections and CU from more experienced comrades - on the contrary, are welcome in the comments.
3. I apologize for possible technical inaccuracies. until recently I was not engaged in electronics and circuitry.
Thank you for your attention, Good luck to everyone and inexhaustible optimism!

Modern mobile devices have already indispensably entered our life. First of all, we are talking about phones and tablets. We use them everywhere, at home, on the street, in the car. In the car, navigators, DVRs, etc. are added to them. And what is needed for the normal operation of these devices? Of course, the power supply, because any, even a very good battery "sits down" in the end.
You can buy a ready-made USB charger for everything we use in the car. But there may be problems with the number of jacks, with the capacity, etc. As a rule, the power of the charger is limited to a current of 0.5 A, although many say 1 A, but they are not able to withstand such a current.
As for my particular case, this charger, which is essentially a voltage regulator on the 7805 microcircuit, was used to hide it under the dashboard. As a result, having powered it from the cigarette lighter and hiding it under the dashboard, only the mini USB plugs were brought out to the dashboard, for the navigator and the DVR. This made it possible to provide power to the gadgets, while leaving the cigarette lighter sockets unoccupied. And perhaps the most important thing is to get rid of the wires that were getting in the way at hand and from their non-aesthetic appearance.

So, in our article we will talk about an alternative, about the independent manufacture of a USB charger for a car based on a microcircuit - a 7805 stabilizer.

How to make a 1.5 Ampere USB charger in a car with your own hands (Option 1)

The L7805 series voltage regulator (current 1 A) or its analogue L7805CV (current 1.5 A) will be used as the "heart" of our charger. In fact, there can be a great variety of analogs used. Basically, the entire 7805 series will do this. We will tell you more about analogs a little later.
The electrical circuit for connecting the stabilizer itself is simple, it is similar to the power stabilizer, which we talked about in our other article "Power stabilizer in a 12 volt car". We can say that these are fellow microcircuits, only their stabilization voltages are different.

Everything can be assembled both by surface mounting and on a board. It is possible on a regular simple universal circuit board. In order for the microcircuit to develop its maximum supply current, it must be placed on a radiator. In our case, the heatsink is taken from a computer processor.

The microcircuits themselves - stabilizers can be produced in various cases. Possible variants of housings and used analogs are shown in the figure below.

In our assembly, the TO-220 package is used ... It is also possible to use microcircuits with the KIA 7805 index. A more detailed Data sheet for these microcircuits can be viewed.

Connecting mini and micro USB plugs from the charger in the car

After you have assembled the USB device, you need to correctly connect the USB connectors. You can take a wire with a factory mini, micro USB plug, or you can buy an "empty" plug in a store and solder a wire to it. The correct connection of different kinds of USB is shown in the figure below.

In my case, a mini USB plug was needed, which was soldered to the wire. The view is shown without the case.

Then, using a universal device, the voltage was checked again so as not to spoil the electronic gadgets. And then the battery of the audio player was already charged.

Subsequently, the charger was installed under the dashboard, and mini USB plugs were brought out: one on the dashboard for the navigator, the second under the roof for the DVR.

Sorry for the view in the garage.

Charger in the car for 5 volts for a smartphone, navigator, video recorder, tablet built on the principle of PWM modulation (USB) 4 Ampere (Option 2)

However, the epic with the charger did not end there. Again, due to a trivial reason, when there is not enough power output for consumers, the supply current, which is essentially the same, provided that the on-board network voltage in the car is constant, since these values ​​will be directly proportional.
So, during the long-term joint operation of the navigator and the DVR, one microcircuit was not able to “pull out” the power of these two devices, even with a radiator installed. As a result, it overheated and turned off for a short time. At the same time, the navigator "swore" to turn off the power.
There are two solutions to the problem. The first is to “fence the garden” and create parallel circuits, each of which will have its own consumers. Let's say one DVR, the second navigator. In fact, in the photo above, where two microcircuits are mounted on one radiator, this is exactly what was done. However, it’s good if everything is limited to this, and if you need to connect a smartphone, tablet, or something else ... There is no way to do without more serious currents, and therefore without alternative options. Such an alternative option would be the use of microassemblies with PWM modulation. I will not explain for a long time and in detail what it is, but the principle of all this is based on the fact that the current is not supplied to the load constantly, but at a very high frequency. As a result, it becomes possible to reduce the heating of the microcircuit, due to the very periods when it "rests", and the load at such a high frequency perceives the power supply as constant, although it is not such ...
So, such a scheme does not require large radiators to remove heat, while rather high currents will be provided. In general, everything will be as we need it. It is about this option below. To reduce the voltage, a microcircuit, an inductor and elements for strapping are used. The microassembly is designated KIS3R33S,

Its installation can be done according to the diagram from the Datasheet. However, by default, with such a strapping, it has an output voltage of 3.3 volts, while we need 5 volts for USB.

In this case, it will be necessary to select resistors R1, R2. The table with the recommended resistor values, on which the supply voltage depends, is also taken from the Datasheet. This feature of changing the voltage by selecting resistors makes this device a universal assistant if you need to supply a load not only with a voltage of 5 volts as for USB.

It should be noted that this device confidently holds a load with a current consumption of 3A, and peak indicators can reach 4A. If you are too lazy to assemble such a device, there is no time or you will not be able to do it, then you can purchase such an assembly for a price of about $ 2 at all well-known sites, online stores.

I must say that such a Chinese voltage converter KIS-3R33S (MP2307) is quite good for its price, while it is capable of delivering high currents, as we already know, up to 4A. This means that such an assembly can replace a pair of KRENoks or the 7805 series, which we talked about in the first part of the article. At the same time, it will be more compact and with higher efficiency.
So, such an assembly was purchased by me. Then I also bought a junction box, which is used for wiring in apartments. This became the body of the converter - charger.

An LED was also connected in order to control whether voltage is being supplied to this "box". You can read about connecting an LED to 12 volts in a car in the article "How to connect an LED to 12 volts". Then everything was installed under the dashboard, behind the glove compartment.

Connected to the cigarette lighter. Voltage appears on it only when the "ignition" is turned on, which is very good for me.

The wires are also routed to the gadgets.

Now the charger current has increased to 4 Amperes, which is still quite enough.

A feature of this charger is that it can work both in cars, where the voltage of the on-board network is 12 volts, and in trucks, where it is 24 volts. At the same time, the charger does not need any alteration and adjustment.

Problems when charging various devices via USB often arise when non-standard chargers are used. At the same time, charging is rather slow and not completely or completely absent.

It should also be said that USB charging is not possible with all mobile devices. They have this port only for data transmission, and a separate round socket is used for charging.

The output current in computer USB is no more than half an ampere for USB 2.0, and for USB 3.0 - 0.9 A. This may not be enough for a number of devices for a normal charge.

It happens that you have a charger at your disposal, but it does not charge your gadget (this may be indicated by an inscription on the display or there will be no charge indication). Such a memory is not supported by your device, and perhaps this is due to the fact that a number of gadgets, before starting the charging process, scan for the presence of a certain voltage on pins 2 and 3. For other devices, the presence of a jumper between these pins, as well as their potential, may be important.

Thus, if the device does not support the proposed type of charger, then the charging process will never start.

In order for the device to start charging from the charger provided to it, it is necessary to provide the required voltages on the 2 and 3 USB pins. For different devices, these voltages may also differ.

Many devices require pins 2 and 3 to have a jumper or resistance element no greater than 200 ohms. Such changes can be made in the USB_AF socket, which is in your memory. Then charging will be possible with a standard Data cable.

The Freelander Typhoon PD10 gadget requires the same wiring diagram, but the charge voltage should be at 5.3 V.

If the charger does not have a USB_AF socket, and the cord comes out directly from the charger case, then you can solder mini-USB or micro-USB plugs to the cable. The connections must be made as shown in the following picture:

Various Apple products have this connection option:

In the absence of a 200 kΩ resistance element on pins 4 and 5, Motorola devices cannot fully charge.

Charging the Samsung Galaxy requires a jumper on pins 2 and 3, and a 200 kΩ resistance element on pins 4 and 5.

It is recommended to fully charge the Samsung Galaxy Tab in a sparing mode using two resistors of 33 kOhm and 10 kOhm, as shown in the picture below:

A device such as the E-ten can be charged with any charger, but only on condition that pins 4 and 5 are jumpered.

This scheme is implemented in the USB-OTG cable. But in this case, you need to use an additional USB male-to-male adapter.

Universal charger Ginzzu GR-4415U and other similar devices have sockets with different resistor connections for charging iPhone / Apple and Samsung / HTC devices. The pinout of these ports looks like this:

To charge your Garmin navigator, you need the same jumper cable on pins 4 and 5. However, in this case, the device cannot charge while it is in use. In order for the navigator to be recharged, it is necessary to replace the jumper with an 18 kOhm resistor.

Charging tablets usually requires 1-1.5A, but as mentioned earlier, the USB ports will not be able to charge them normally, as USB 3.0 will give a maximum of 900mA.

Some tablet models have a round coaxial jack for charging. In this case, the positive pin of the mini-USB / micro-USB socket is not connected to the battery charge controller. According to some users of such tablets, if you connect the plus from the USB jack to the plus of the coaxial jack with a jumper, then charging can be done via USB.

Or you can make an adapter for connecting to a coaxial jack, as shown in the figure below:

Here are the jumper diagrams showing the voltage and resistor values:

As a result, in order to charge various gadgets from non-native chargers, you need to make sure that the charging produces a voltage of 5 V and a current of at least 500 mA, and make changes to the USB socket or plug according to the requirements of your device.

Convenient storage of radio components

Making a solar USB charger for your phone with your own hands is one of the most interesting and useful projects on. Making a homemade charger is not too difficult - the necessary components are not very expensive and are easy to obtain. Solar USB chargers are ideal for charging small devices like your phone.

The weak point of all homemade solar chargers is the batteries. Most are assembled on the basis of standard nickel-metal hydride batteries - cheap, affordable and safe to use. But unfortunately, NiMH batteries have too low voltage and capacity to be seriously considered as a quality, the energy consumption of which only grows every year.

For example, the iPhone 4's 2000 mAh battery can still be fully recharged from a homemade solar charger with two or four AA batteries, but the iPad 2 has a 6000 mAh battery that is no longer easy to recharge with a similar charger.

The solution to this problem is to replace the nickel-metal hydride batteries with lithium ones.

In this tutorial, you will learn how to make a solar USB charger with a lithium battery with your own hands. Firstly, compared to this homemade charger, it will cost you very little. Secondly, it is very easy to assemble it. And most importantly, this lithium USB charger is safe to use.

Step 1: Required components for solar USB charger assembly.

Electronic components:

• Solar cell 5V or higher
• 3.7V Li-ion battery
• Li-ion battery charging controller
• DC USB Boost Circuit
• 2.5mm Panel Mount Connector
• 2.5mm plug with wire
• Diode 1N4001
• The wire

Construction materials:

• Insulating tape
• Heat shrink tubing
• Double Sided Foam Tape
• Solder
• Tin box (or other enclosure)

Instruments:

• Soldering iron
• Hot glue gun
• Drill
• Dremel (optional, but desirable)
• Nippers
• Wire stripper
• Friend's help

This guide will show you how to make a solar phone charger. You can refuse to use solar panels and limit yourself only to the manufacture of a conventional USB charger on lithium-ion batteries.

Most of the components for this project can be purchased from online electronics stores, but the USB DC step-up circuit and lithium-ion battery charge controller will not be easy to find. Later in this guide, I'll show you where you can get most of the required components and what each one is for. Based on this, you yourself decide which option suits you best.

Step 2: Benefits of Lithium Battery Chargers.

You may not guess, but most likely the lithium-ion battery is right now in your pocket or on your desk, or maybe in your wallet or. Most modern electronic devices use lithium-ion batteries, which are characterized by a large capacity and voltage. They can be recharged many times. Most AA batteries are nickel-metal hydride chemically and cannot boast of high technical characteristics.

From a chemical point of view, the difference between a standard AA NiMH battery and a lithium ion battery lies in the chemical elements contained within the battery. If you look at the periodic table of elements of Mendeleev, you will see that lithium is in the left corner next to the most reactive elements. Nickel, on the other hand, is located in the middle of the table next to chemically inactive elements. Lithium is so reactive because it only has one valence electron.

And it is precisely for this reason that there are many complaints about lithium - sometimes it can get out of control due to its high chemical activity. A few years ago, Sony, a leader in laptop batteries, manufactured a batch of low-quality laptop batteries, some of which spontaneously caught fire.

That is why, when working with lithium-ion batteries, we must adhere to certain precautions - very accurately maintain the voltage during charging. This manual uses 3.7 V batteries, which require a charging voltage of 4.2 V. If this voltage is exceeded or decreased, the chemical reaction can get out of control with all the ensuing consequences.

This is why extreme care must be taken when working with lithium batteries. If handled with care, they are reasonably safe. But if you do the inappropriate things with them, it can lead to big trouble. Therefore, they should only be operated strictly according to the instructions.

Step 3: Selecting a lithium-ion battery charge controller.

Due to the high chemical reactivity of lithium batteries, you must be 100% sure that the charge voltage control circuit will not let you down.

Although it is possible to make your own voltage control circuit, it is better to just buy a ready-made circuit that you can be sure of working. Several charge control schemes are available to choose from.

Adafruit is currently launching the second generation of lithium battery charge controllers with several available input voltages. These are pretty good controllers, but they are too big. It is unlikely that on their basis it will be possible to assemble a compact charger.

You can buy small lithium battery charging controller modules on the Internet, which are used in this manual. I also collected many others based on these controllers. I like them for their compactness, simplicity and the presence of an LED indication of the battery charge. As with the Adafruit, the lithium battery can be recharged via the controller's USB port when the sun is out. USB charging is an extremely useful option for any solar charger.

Regardless of which controller you choose, you must know how it works and how to properly operate it.

Step 4: USB port.

Most modern devices can be charged via the USB port. This is the standard all over the world. Why not just plug the USB port directly into the battery? Why do you need a dedicated USB charging circuit?

The problem is that according to the USB standard, the voltage is 5V, and the lithium-ion batteries that we will use in this project are only 3.7V. Therefore, we will have to use a USB DC boost circuit that increases the voltage to enough to charge various devices. Most commercial and home-made USB chargers, on the contrary, use step-down circuits, since they are assembled on the basis of 6 and 9 V batteries. Lower-voltage circuits are more complex, so it is better not to use them in solar chargers.

The circuit used in this manual was selected as a result of extensive testing of various options. It is almost identical to the Minityboost Adafruit scheme, but costs less.

Of course you can buy an inexpensive USB charger online and disassemble it, but we need a circuit that converts 3V (voltage of two AA batteries) to 5V (voltage on USB). Disassembling a regular or car USB charging will not work, since their circuits work to lower the voltage, but on the contrary, we need to increase the voltage.

In addition, it should be noted that the Mintyboost circuit and the circuit used in the project are capable of working with Apple gadgets, unlike most other USB chargers. Apple devices check USB info pins to know where they are connected. If the Apple gadget determines that the info pins are not working, then it will refuse to charge. Most other gadgets do not have this check. Trust me - I've tried a lot of cheap charging schemes from eBay - none of them have been able to charge my iPhone. You don't want your homemade USB charger to be unable to charge Apple gadgets.

Step 5: Battery selection.

If you google a little, you will find a huge variety of sizes, capacities, voltages and costs. At first, it will be easy to get confused in all this diversity.

For our charger, we will be using a 3.7V Lithium Polymer (Li-Po) battery, which is very similar to an iPod or mobile phone battery. Indeed, we need a battery exclusively for 3.7 V, since the charging circuit is designed specifically for this voltage.

The fact that the battery should be equipped with built-in protection against overcharge and over discharge is not even discussed. This protection is commonly referred to as "PCB protection". Search for these keywords on eBay. From itself it is just a small printed circuit board with a chip that protects the battery from overcharging and discharging.

When choosing a lithium-ion battery, look not only at its capacity, but also at its physical size, which mainly depends on the case you choose. I had an Altoids tin box as the case, so I was limited in the choice of the battery. At first I thought of buying a 4400 mAh battery, but due to its large size I had to limit myself to a 2000 mAh battery.

Step 6: Connecting the solar panel.

If you are not going to make a solar charger, you can skip this step.

This guide uses a 5.5V 320mA solar cell in a hard plastic case. Any large solar panel will do. For the charger, it is best to choose a battery rated for 5-6 V.

Take the end of the wire, split it in two and strip the ends a little. The wire with the white stripe is negative, and the completely black wire is positive.

Solder the wires to the corresponding pins on the back of the solar panel.

Cover the solder joints with tape or hot glue. This will protect them and help reduce stress on the wires.

Step 7: Drill a tin box or case.

Since I used an Altoids tin box for the case, I had to do a bit of work with a drill. In addition to a drill, we also need a tool such as a dremel.

Before you start working with the tin box, fold all the components into it to make sure in practice that it suits you. Think about how best to place the components in it, and only then drill. The locations of the components can be marked with a marker.

After the designation of places, you can get to work.

There are several ways to remove the USB port: make a small cut right at the top of the box, or drill a hole of the appropriate size on the side of the box. I decided to make a hole in the side.

First, attach the USB port to the box and mark its location. Drill two or more holes within the designated area.

Grind the hole with a dremel. Be sure to follow safety precautions so as not to injure your fingers. Do not hold the box in your hands under any circumstances - grip it in a vice.

Drill a 2.5mm hole for the USB port. Expand it with a dremel if necessary. If you don't plan on installing a solar panel, then there is no need for a 2.5mm hole!

Step 8: Connect the charging controller.

One of the reasons I chose this compact charging controller is its high reliability. It has four contact pads: two in the front next to the mini-USB port, where DC voltage is supplied (in our case, from solar panels), and two in the back for the battery.

To connect the 2.5 mm connector to the charging controller, you need to solder two wires and a diode from the connector to the controller. In addition, it is advisable to use heat shrink tubing.

Fix the 1N4001 diode, charging controller and 2.5mm connector. Place the connector in front of you. If you look at it from left to right, the left contact will be negative, the middle one will be positive, and the right one is not used at all.

Solder one end of the wiring to the negative leg of the connector, and the other to the negative terminal on the board. In addition, it is advisable to use heat shrink tubing.

Solder one more wire to the leg of the diode, next to which the mark is applied. Solder it as close to the base of the diode as possible to save more space. Solder the other side of the diode (unmarked) to the middle leg of the connector. Again, try to solder as close to the base of the diode as possible. Finally, solder the wires to the positive terminal on the board. In addition, it is advisable to use heat shrink tubing.

Step 9: Connect the battery and USB circuit.

At this stage, you only need to solder four additional contacts.

You need to connect the battery and USB circuit to the charge controller board.

Cut some wires first. Solder them to the positive and negative pins on the USB circuit, which are located on the underside of the board.

Then connect these wires together with the wires coming from the lithium-ion battery. Make sure you connect the negative wires together and connect the positive wires together. Let me remind you that the red wires are positive, and the black ones are negative.

Once you've twisted the wires together, weld them to the contacts on the battery, which are on the back of the charge controller board. Before soldering the wiring, it is advisable to thread it through the holes.

Now we can congratulate you - you have 100% completed the electrical part of this project and you can relax a little.

At this point, it is a good idea to test that the circuit is working. Since all the electrical components are connected, everything should work. Try charging your iPod or any other gadget with a USB port. The device will not charge if the battery is low or defective. Also, place the charger in the sun and see if the battery is charging from the solar panel - this should illuminate the small red LED on the charge controller board. You can also charge the battery via a mini-USB cable.

Step 10: Electrical isolation of all components.

Before placing all the electronic components in the tin box, we must be sure that it cannot cause a short circuit. If you have a plastic or wooden case, then skip this step.

Place a few strips of duct tape on the bottom and sides of the tin box. It is in these places that the USB circuit and charging controller will be located. The photographs show that the charging controller was left loose.

Try to insulate everything thoroughly so that a short circuit does not occur. Make sure the solder is strong before applying hot glue or tape.

Step 11: Place the electronic components in the housing.

Since the 2.5mm connector needs to be bolted in, place it first.

My USB circuit had a switch on the side. If you have the same circuit, then first check if the switch that is needed to turn on and off the "charging mode" works.

Finally, you need to secure the battery. For this purpose, it is better to use not hot glue, but a few pieces of double-sided tape or electrical tape.

Step 12: Operate your homemade solar charger.

In conclusion, let's talk about the correct operation of a homemade USB charger.

The battery can be charged via the mini-USB port or from the sun. A red LED on the charge controller board indicates charging, and a blue LED indicates a fully charged battery.

Many modern cars have modules with multiple USB outputs for power. By and large, several USB ports are needed in any car, because so often you have to charge your phone, tablet, camera, and you also need to connect a navigator and a recorder.

It is high time to make a neat panel with USB sockets in the car. And to assemble it yourself is not at all difficult and not costly, even for.

To build a USB power supply, you need at least:

1. microcircuit voltage stabilizer of 5 V;
2. two capacitors: both at 25 V or only one, and the other at 10 V (the capacitance values ​​of the capacitors depend on the selected stabilizer, and will be determined later);
3. 1 A semiconductor diode;
4. sockets types: 1USB-A or 2USB-A;
5. connecting wires of small cross-section - no more than 0.5 mm2

Microcircuit stabilizers voltages for assembling a USB power supply are preferred as they:

• capable of operating within a wide range of input voltages 7 - 20 V;
• have an overcurrent protection system;
• are equipped with an overheating protection system, which, when the chip of the microcircuit is heated, limits the output current.

One USB connector can be powered from the 78L05 stabilizer: Imax = 0.1 A, Pmax = 0.5 W, TO-92 case.

Two USB connectors or more must be connected to power from 78M05 or 7805 stabilizers.

Chip 78M05 has the following characteristics: Imax = 0.5 A, Pmax = 7.5 W, housing TO-202 or TO-220.

Chip 7805: Imax = 1.5 A, Pmax = 10 W, TO-220 case.

The 78 series regulators are manufactured in a package that makes them look like transistors.

The pinout for 78M05 and 7805 microcircuits is as follows:

• the first output on the left is the input (if you look at the case from the side of the marking);
• medium - general;
• the third is the exit.

The 78L05 microcircuits have the opposite pinout than the 78M05 and 7805 microcircuits.

When assembling the circuit, it is necessary to take into account that the common output of the 78M05 and 7805 microcircuits is connected to their metal heat sink, therefore, when installing the stabilizer on the radiator, do not close the rest of the circuit elements. And it is still desirable to screw the microcircuit to the radiator, because the stabilizer in this case will work better (remember that microcircuit stabilizers limit the current at the load when overheating).

Semiconductor diode is needed to limit current surges when the switches or relay contacts are turned on, through which the stabilization circuit can be connected.

Capacitors you need to put 10 μF, and not 47 μF, if you use a less powerful stabilizer 78L05 in the circuit, and not 78M05 and 7805 microcircuits. By voltage, capacitors, as mentioned earlier, should be selected for 25 V each, or a capacitor at the output can be set to 10 V.

Light-emitting diode as a power indicator is not required, but it helps to visually determine the presence of voltage at the output and the serviceability of the stabilization circuit.

Resistor it is not necessary to set it to 160 ohms, because with such a damping resistance, the LED may shine too brightly. The damping resistor can be selected with resistances: 270 Ohm, 300 Ohm, 470 Ohm.

Having assembled the voltage stabilization circuit, you need to connect it to the USB socket: plus 5 V output - to the plus contact of the USB supply voltage; common output to - common contact of the connector.

The pinout for the USB sockets is as follows:

• the first contact on the left is common (if you look at the connector contacts from above);
• the second is plus the data buses;
• third - plus data buses;
• fourth - plus supply voltage.

Of course, you will not transfer any data using the USB socket as a power source, so do not pay attention to the second and third pins of the connector.

Where to install the USB power sockets in the car is a personal decision of each craftsman. But as a recommendation, we can say that it is convenient to place several connectors together with the assembled circuit on a separate panel cut from a plastic or aluminum plate. Also on this small console, you can install a small switch that will cut off the voltage at the input of the stabilization circuit. The ready-made socket with USB connectors is very easy to install in a convenient place in the car interior.

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