What can you cook from squid: quick and tasty

So, now we will make a hole at the top of the computer case for installing a fan there. In this way, we will achieve the best possible cooling of the processor by sucking hot air out of the case.

So let's go straight to the drilling itself. Since you hardly have a special device for cutting out such large holes, holes, you will have to do with drilling many small ones around the perimeter. The most convenient and fastest way to do this is using drilling machine, but if you have enough patience, then you can use an ordinary drill.

Knocking out the space between the holes ...

Here is the result ... It turned out scary, but still ahead :)

Here's the fun part. To smooth the edges of the hole, you need to glue them over with such rubber gaskets. Better to use superglue. If someone cannot get exactly the rubber tubes, you can take a piece of any thick black wire, remove the insulation from it and cut it lengthwise. You will get just such gaskets. The result is a nice hole with neat edges. Rubber pads also dampen the vibrations caused by the fan and reduce fan noise.

Now it remains to drill holes for the screws to secure the fan. This is how it will look ...

Modding is not the end result,
but the process of achieving it.

Probably, talking about what modding is to those who are at least a little familiar with computers is completely useless. Originally born as a hobby of computer enthusiasts, modding has long ceased to be exclusively the business of the Kulibins and has turned into an entire industry. Now you can't count how many companies specialize in the production of modding accessories. And what you will not find on the market today - there are specialized cases, from completely transparent (like aquariums) to cases with a window, and coolers with various illumination, and neon lamps, and reobases, and control panels, and braids for loops, and grilles for fans, and phosphors ...

In the classical sense, modding is any independent modification of a computer or even a device connected to it. But, of course, first of all, modding is a modification of the PC system unit. When a masterpiece, unique in terms of design, is created from a boring, ordinary PC case, this is real modding. You can, of course, buy a ready-made modding case, but ... it is so unaesthetic and even vulgar - to buy ready-made what, by definition, you need to do yourself.

So, with this article we open a whole cycle of illustrated articles on the practical basics of modding. Together we will go through all the stages and study the basic techniques for modifying a computer case - from cutting holes and windows in the case to painting it and installing backlight lamps.

Lesson 1. Cut a window and a hole for the fan in the case

Required tools:

• marker;
• fan grill;
• dremel;
• fiberglass-reinforced cutting disc for dremel (4 pcs.);
• aluminum oxide grinding stone (dremel attachment);
• drill with a diameter of 3 mm;
• protective glasses.

Preparing the enclosure

Before you start curly cutting case, we strongly recommend practicing on some old case (which is not a pity) or just on a piece of sheet iron. In our case, we chose old cases for modding (by the way, found in the trash heap), deciding to embody all our imagination in them and turn the old junk into a new stylish case.

It is worth noting that you can use any case for modding, but it is better that the thickness of the case walls is not too thin. As a rule, the thickness of the walls of the case is between 0.8 and 1.5 mm, but if it is less, then it is better to look for another case. Also, try to use a case with smooth sidewalls for modding, as otherwise you will have problems with the painting of the case.

Initially, the case had only one seat for an 80 mm fan at the bottom of the front panel. Of course, this is clearly not enough for a modern, powerful PC (especially considering that our case is quite thin). Therefore, our modding will have and practical purpose- creation effective system heat sink.

So, we will cut out three holes in the case for 120 mm fans (these holes are called blind holes) and a side window, which will subsequently be covered from the inside with tinted plexiglass. One 120mm fan will be installed underneath top panel case and will work to blow hot air out of the PC case, the second fan will be located on the side panel and will work to blow cold air into the system unit. The third fan, which will also suck cold air into the system unit, will be installed on the front panel. The side window will be in the shape of two compound rounded rectangles.

It is necessary to mark the hole for the fan in the top cover of the case without disassembling the entire case and without removing the power supply and the optical drive from it, so that later the installation of the fan is not impeded by either the power supply or the optical drive. If it comes on the side wall of the case, then the fan must be positioned so that it does not touch the video card, and the center of the hole is best placed at the bottom left. In our case, this side fan will blow cold air into the PC case.

The best way to mark the hole for the fan is using a fan grill (fig. 1), also called a grill. Use a marker to draw a circle under the fan along the contour of the grill, as shown in fig. 2.

Similarly, we apply the contour of the future hole, as well as the contour of the future window on the side wall of the case (Fig. 3).

When marking up the window, do not make the fillets too small, otherwise they will be difficult to cut. You should also not make the window too large, because, firstly, the body will lose strength in this case, and secondly, it is necessary to provide a place for attaching the backlight lamps from above and below. This note also applies to the marking of the hole for the fan - leave room at the bottom of the case for installing the backlight. When marking the windows and holes for the fan on the side of the case, it is recommended to step back from the edges of the case by at least 5 cm.

After that, the case can be completely disassembled by removing all the filling from it and separating the side walls, bezel and top cover (Fig. 4). Then you can proceed to the most important stage - cutting out the holes and the side window.

Dremel and attachments

So, in the first lesson, we will get acquainted with the main universal tool for modding - the Dremel. This device is by no means cheap, but, unfortunately, there is simply nothing to replace it with, and as soon as there is a desire to start modding, you will have to fork out. But, believe me, the dremel is a truly universal tool in all respects, and it is worth the money spent.

In principle, nowadays it is not quite right to call a whole class of tools similar in functionality, produced by different companies, dremel. However, there can only be one Dremel made by Dremel itself (www.dremel.com). The Dremel is a miniature drill, but with a significantly higher rotational speed. Actually, the speed of rotation is the main characteristic of the dremel, which distinguishes it from similar instruments. Other important parameters are the weight and dimensions of the dremel. Dremel, unlike a punch, which is held with two hands, should be such that it can be held with two fingers at the base in the same way as holding a fountain pen. It is important for our work that the maximum rotation speed is at least 30,000 rpm. A whole arsenal of all kinds of attachments (more than 150) is produced for the dremel, which makes it a truly universal tool.

There are various versions of the Dremel such as Dremel Professional, Dremel MultiPro, cordless Dremel MultiPro. These devices differ in functionality and cost, and for computer modding purposes we recommend using the Dremel MultiPro. The fact is that the Dremel Professional model, which is much more expensive, has a lot of extra "bells and whistles" that we do not need, and the wireless model has insufficient rotation speed. On the other hand, the Dremel MultiPro has a rotational speed ranging from 5000 to 33000 rpm, which is quite enough for our purposes.

Dremel is sold with a set of all kinds of attachments, but not all the necessary attachments are included in the set. For our purposes, we also need a fiberglass-reinforced cut-off wheel, type 426 or 456 (not included in the standard delivery set). So you should immediately take care of buying them. Reinforced fiberglass cutting discs (fig. 6) are intended directly for cutting metals.

Cutting a hole for a fan

So, having fastened the cut-off wheel to the mandrel 402 (included in the delivery set of the dremel), we install it in the dremel chuck. The rotation speed should be maximum. Take the dremel in your hand as shown in fig. 7. It is necessary to cut along the inside of the outlined circle so that the border of the circle remains visible. Cutting is carried out only by the edge of the circle, therefore, in no case should efforts be applied in the direction coaxial to the dremel.

Cutting the body is absolutely essential to be done effortlessly. Cutting occurs only due to the speed of rotation of the wheel. The movement of the dremel during cutting should be like fine strokes. Note that your hand should move while cutting, not your arm. The dremel must be moved in such a way that the resulting sheaf of sparks would be directed against the forward movement of the cutting wheel.

A circle for a 120mm fan is cut out in about 20 minutes. Well, and the last thing I would like to warn you about right away: do not forget to wear safety glasses during all metal cutting work.

Cutting a hole with a dremel is shown in Fig. 8, 9 and 10.

After cutting the hole, the resulting circle is usually far from ideal (see Figure 10). Indeed, it is not so easy to carve out a perfect circle, especially if you don't have enough practice.

Therefore, the main thing is that during the cutting process, the circle marked by the marker remains uncluttered. At the next stage, using the same cut-off wheel, it is necessary to more carefully process the edges of the circle. This is done with light movements of the outer edge of the cutting wheel, as shown in fig. 11. After such processing, the edges of the circle become quite tolerable (Fig. 12).

And finally, at the last stage, it is required to bring the circle to an ideal state. To do this, we need to use an aluminum oxide grinding stone attachment (Fig. 13). The dremel must be held with two fingers so that its axis is perpendicular to the surface of the body (Fig. 14).

Rice. 13. Aluminum oxide grinding attachment

After the fan circle is cut and sanded, you need to attach the grill to it and mark the four screw holes with which the fan and grill will be attached to the body. The holes for the screws are drilled with a dremel or small drill with a 3.2 mm drill. When drilling, set the minimum rotation speed of the dremel (fig. 15).

Cut a hole in the case

So, after the holes are ready, you can start cutting the window in the case. However, most likely, after cutting the first window, you will have to replace the cutting wheel with a new one. For example, in order to cut two holes for the fans and a side window, we had to change four cut-off wheels. Worn cut-off wheels are shown in fig. sixteen.

Rice. 16. Worn cut-off wheels compared to a new wheel

Cutting techniques in this case are the same as when cutting a hole, with one exception. The translational movement of the dremel is carried out not with the hand, but with the whole hand, which allows cutting in a straight line (Fig. 17). The rounded corners are cut with straight line segments, which are then processed (fig. 18).

After cutting through the window, sand the edges with an aluminum oxide grinding stone (fig. 19).

Cutting the seat for the fan in the rear and front walls of the case

So, after cutting a hole for the 120mm fan and windows in the case, we have to cut a hole in the front wall of the case to install the fan. Our chassis is not designed to house a 120mm front fan, and has a slot for an 80mm fan with a distinctive protrusion. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to cut off this protrusion (Fig. 20) so that the grill can be fixed on the front surface of the chassis (Fig. 21).

So, all the holes are cut, and you can proceed to the next stage - to cleaning, grinding and painting the case. This is what we will do in the next lesson.

One of the most common options for removing a ventilation pipe from an apartment or private house is a hole in the wall. It is used for supplying and removing exhaust air. Most often, ventilation of a bathroom or kitchen is pulled through the wall to the street. How to make a ventilation hole in the wall, what tools to use and how to insulate the resulting hole without breaking the thermal insulation, read on.

Ventilation patterns through the wall

In apartments or private houses, the most rational arrangement of ventilation through the wall:

• with natural draft;
• with mechanical outflow;
• combined.

Natural ventilation is based on the draft principle. Air moves due to the difference in pressure and temperature inside the apartment and outside. Such a system is independent of energy sources and is a structure of air ducts and openings, as a rule, extending through walls.

Natural ventilation was widely used in the construction of old multi-storey buildings, much less often in modern buildings.

One of the problems that arise during its operation is the lack of air flow. It is understood that fresh air enters the premises through the cracks between the window sashes, open vents. but modern windows provide almost complete sealing. Therefore, residents solve the problem on their own, pulling ventilation through the wall to the street, installing supply valves.

Household hoods also often work poorly, but it is not possible to make the ventilation passage from the bathroom through the wall in all apartments. It is much easier to build ventilation in the wall of a private house. It is advisable to design the ventilation passage through the wall in advance, linking it with all other structures.

Mechanical or natural?

When planning ventilation in an outside wall, decide on the system. One of the most important indicators of air exchange is speed and temperature.

This is probably why people feel worse in rooms with fans. But in some cases, mechanics are indispensable. For example, if it is not possible to make wide exhaust ducts in the outer wall for exhaust ventilation. The higher the speed of the air flow, the smaller the section of the ventilation duct. Therefore, mechanical ventilation is often installed in the outer walls. Mechanical stimulation is more expedient also in large-area rooms.

Comfort is achieved at a lower speed of movement of air masses. The speed of air movement in natural ventilation in the wall of an apartment is no more than 1 cubic meter per hour, while with mechanical ventilation it can reach 5 cubic meters per hour.

Supply ventilation devices in the walls

Natural ventilation will work satisfactorily if a supply valve is located on the opposite wall from the exhaust outlet.

Inlet valves for ventilation through the wall are made of PVC of various models and shapes:

• rectangular;
• oval;
• round.

Ventilation installation locations in the wall:

• between the window sill and the battery;
• in the sash of a plastic window;
• near the window, as close to the ceiling as possible.

If you bring ventilation outside through the wall, in regions with cold winters, icy air will penetrate through the valve. Even icing of the adjacent wall is possible.

To avoid trouble, make a ventilation passage through the wall above the radiator.

Cold air will first be warmed up by the battery, and only then will penetrate into the room.

Installation of the supply valve

Installation of ventilation into the wall is not difficult, but it requires accuracy:

• Mark the location of the valve on the wall with a pencil;
• How to make a hole for ventilation in the wall: with a perforator with a special nozzle. Hole diameter approx. 60 mm. Make the hole with a slope towards the street approximately for the outflow of condensate and atmospheric precipitation;
• Pass the air duct into the channel. Some models are sold already insulated. Others insulate themselves with the help mineral wool... With it, very carefully lay all the voids between the duct and the wall. Fill in the remaining gaps polyurethane foam... In places where there is no insulation, condensation will appear;
• Now you should make a markup for fixing the case and attach it with dowels or screws;
• Put on a protective mesh on the outer head and a cover on the inner head.

Depending on the design, the valves can be equipped with filters, plugs and other accessories. But regardless of the "feature", the installation procedure is the same.

Exhaust devices in the walls of houses

axial fan design: 1 - power supply wire; 2 - air intake grille; 3 - switch; 4 - switch wire; 5 - impeller; 6 - blinds

In some cases, it is more convenient to resort to mechanical exhaust air removal, that is, to install exhaust ventilation through the wall to the street. The main component of the system is an exhaust fan. It is built into the wall outlet and fulfills its function perfectly. Axial models are presented as household ones. Some of them are equipped with louvers that prevent back draft.

The fan can be started manually or automatically by the command of the humidity sensor. The most advanced ones are equipped with a timer that starts the engine according to a given mode.

How to remove ventilation through the wall - important question, but first, the characteristics of the equipment should be calculated:

M = O x B,

where M- fan power, O- the volume of the room, (to get it, multiply the length, height and width of the room), V- air exchange depending on the purpose.

Air exchange rates:

• for the kitchen 15 times;
• for a toilet 8 times;
• for a bathroom or shower room up to 20 times.

The best place to install a fan in the wall of a private house is on the opposite side from the source clean air but not too close to it. At the top of the wall.

The fans are connected to the power supply through fusible fuses, which are installed in the electrical panel.

If you doubt your own knowledge of an electrician, invite a professional master to connect the fan. And to help the brave our video.

140 mm fans are being introduced to the masses, the purchase of which has long ceased to be a problem, but 180 and 220 mm fans are only becoming widely available. Even before, large fans could often be found initially installed in serial pre-mods of the case, which is logical, because the case manufacturer will not have difficulty cutting out the blind hole not for a 120 mm fan, but for a 220 mm one. But a simple user, having bought a fan of a large diameter, may encounter a number of problems when installing such a fan in the case.

The purpose of this article will be to describe the process of installing a large fan using the example of the Globefan 220mm Blue LED (Y2203012H) model.

Globefan 220mm Blue LED Fan Inspection

V lineup There are three 220 mm models of Globefan fans, they differ in the maximum rotational speed of the impeller. The "slowest" model Y2203012L has a maximum rotational speed of 350 rpm, the model with the M index - 500 rpm and 650 rpm blows the model with the letter H at the end. All models are made of transparent plastic and have a built-in blue backlight.

Globefan 220mm Blue LED Specifications

As you can see from the specifications, the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan has a non-standard thickness - unlike the bulk of the fans, this fan is not 25 mm thick, but 30 mm thick - this should be taken into account when installing. Let's take a closer look at the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan: it has 13 blades, on the back side of the fan there are 8 transparent spacers, which not only provide reliable holding of the fan, but also provide the minimum necessary protection of the rotating impeller from wires and similar interference.

The sticker with the model marking is located on the back of the fan, it shows that this Globefan 220mm Blue LED model has an impeller speed of 650 rpm and consumes 7.2 watts of electricity.

The wall of the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan contains 6 blue LEDs, the power wires of which have transparent insulation and are laid in the grooves of the spacers. The LEDs are fixed with hot melt glue.

Globefan 220mm Blue LED fans on sale are usually only found in OEM configurations, so don't expect to see any glamorous ones here. cardboard boxes and heaps of pieces of paper on which the philosophy of the manufacturing company is painted. The Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan comes with a protective grill that looks like a grille for car acoustics. Mesh with a fine mesh, convex in the shape of a plastic outer cover. The cover itself has 4 plastic pins, to which the fan is attached. The perforated mesh is attached with 4 small screws. In the plastic cover, an additional impeller rotation speed regulator is installed (i.e. single-channel reobass), which allows to reduce the rotation speed (as well as noise, performance, etc.) of the fan. This reobass is a conventional variable resistor. It is connected using a small 2-pin connector. Also, for a better installation of the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan, plastic spacers are supplied with it, which ensure a uniform installation height of the fan on the grill pins, and, of course, 4 standard screws for screwing the fan.

Installing the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan into the case

The first step is a photo of the case without any modifications. As you can see, this is a standard case made of steel 0.8 mm thick, the cooling of which is limited by two 80 mm fans. This system works 24 hours a day and is used for storing data and continuous operation of the torrent client. That is why we will improve the cooling of this PC by installing a 220 mm fan in its case. The side walls of this case are almost the same, the only difference is that the right wall is perforated. And since the rest of the construction of the walls is the same, then to facilitate the work, I change the right and left walls in places. Now, during operation, it will not be necessary to calculate the position of the blowhole based on the old holes in the wall in order to close them. The left wall is "clean" - and we will cut it.

First of all, we take the desired wall and close it with masking tape to prevent scratches during work. We choose masking tape due to the absence of glue residues on the glued parts after removing it. Further, based on the placement of the power supply unit and the basket for five-inch devices, we draw the position of the fan. Hole for Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan I wrap around the inner side of the fan wall. Do not forget about the governor - it requires an additional window to install.

Now you can go to the place where all the work will be carried out. You can use a dremel to cut the main hole of the bleach, but I decided to do it with a jigsaw. In this regard, with the help of a drill, we first make a hole for the jigsaw blade. Please note that you need to drill inside the cut-out window, so that you can then smoothly move to the cutting line with a jigsaw.

Now we firmly press the wall of the case to the table using a clamp - it will not allow the wall to move while cutting with a jigsaw. We will cut gradually, turning the wall on the table. We insert a jigsaw blade into the drilled hole, note that I use a blade with a fine tooth, designed for cutting metal. Since the diameter of the hole to be cut is large, the jigsaw in this case is the most optimal tool for fast and quality work... Do not forget about eye protection - be sure to put on safety glasses.

After the end of cutting, we get a fairly high-quality cut hole - the circle is even and requires minimal processing. Using a jigsaw, it is better not to rush - it cuts easily and during fast cutting it can "drive" where it is not needed.

For the final processing of the cut edge, I use a dremel with an attachment made of sandpaper... You do not need to make any special efforts, just lightly walk the nozzle along the edge to be processed. An oval file with a fine tooth can also be used.

Now, to set the speed controller, cut out a rectangle in the upper right side of the window. For this we use a dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel.

Reinforced cut-off wheel for engraver

Moving on to the mounting holes. For accurate drilling, the centers of the holes must be punched out. I use a sharpened dowel as a center punch. Next, we drill 8 holes using a drill with a diameter of 3 mm. For attaching the mesh, 4 holes with a diameter of 3 mm are enough, but for the stands on a plastic grill cover, holes with a diameter of 7 mm are required. Thus, we drill 4 more holes first with a 5 mm drill, and then 7 mm.

We remove the tape, which protects the paintwork of the wall from possible damage. Now we install the grill for the fan: on the front side of the wall I install plastic cover, and from the inside - I screw the mesh to it.

Now we put plastic spacers-restraints on the racks and fasten the fan itself. At this point, all work can be considered completed - the wall is ready to be installed in the case.

Most of the new materials and ready-made structures, introduced into the construction and decoration industry, almost completely eliminates the free movement of air. The tightness provided by them, along with the advantages, brought a weighty disadvantage - a violation of ventilation processes.

They just need to be restored, because, you see, without a regular supply of fresh air to the room, it is impossible to live in it!

We know how to solve such a difficult problem: exhaust ventilation through the wall to the street will form the normal movement of air masses. A small wall device will provide waste flow and excellent air exchange.

Our proposed article will acquaint you with the intricacies of choosing a valve for organizing exhaust ventilation, with the rules for its installation and operation. The information presented for consideration is confirmed by photo materials, diagrams and video instructions.

Natural ventilation of living quarters is based on the presence of micro-crevices typical for wooden window structures. Through such small holes, air regularly entered the outside and was removed from the house by building structures ventilation ducts.

So in the apartment a constant change of air masses was carried out, contributing to the normal level of humidity, removal of unpleasant odors, etc.

Regular renewal of the air mass, which occurs naturally through the loose fit of window sashes and door panels, as well as by ventilation, forms an optimal microclimate for life, removes excess moisture, carbon dioxide and other harmful toxic substances

Incorrect air exchange in the house is an almost inevitable problem when carrying out measures to reduce heat loss. When installing new windows and doors in an effort to minimize heat leakage, few people think about ventilation of their homes.

But soon problems appear in the form of a stuffy atmosphere, mold growth in the bathroom and other similar phenomena. Soon, the abnormal microclimate begins to negatively affect the health of those who live in such a house.

Reasonable choice of the appropriate option

Most often, wall ventilation exhaust valves are made of metal or durable plastic. Plastic products are not suitable for conditions of high temperature and humidity, for example, for a bath, but they have proven themselves excellent in less difficult situations.

When choosing a valve, you should take into account its cross-section: rectangular or round.

The very same important indicator- the air flow rate for which the device is designed. The most common models are considered to be designed for a flow of 4-6 m / s.

To organize forced exhaust ventilation in an apartment or house, you can use a structure consisting of a fan and a check valve

If the valve is to be selected for a natural ventilation system, it is very important that the damper damper elements react sensitively even to small air flows. But for systems with weak thrust, the presence of exhaust fan is mandatory, so this sensitivity is not needed.

But here it is important to choose a fan that is suitable in terms of power, depending on the volume of the room for which the device is selected. So, for the kitchen, the fan power is calculated using a multiplying coefficient equal to ten, and for a bathroom this indicator can be seven units.

V multi-storey buildings the exhaust ventilation pipe must be brought out one meter above the roof so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate from the lower floors to the upper ones.

The subtleties of the construction of exhaust ventilation in the wall

In private houses and even in multi-storey buildings, in many cases it is more convenient to make a ventilation outlet directly through the wall. For this, models of exhaust valves with a fan are used, which is inserted into the mounting sleeve intended for their location.

You can also use overhead fan models that are mounted on the inside of the wall.

For the installation of an exhaust ventilation valve in the wall, you first need to make a markup and drill a hole in it of the required size

To install such a simple design, you need to do enough big hole for the installation of ventilation in the outer wall of the house. But first you need to choose the right device.

Manual models have a reasonable price, but they are extremely inconvenient in operation, since you will have to constantly remember to turn on or off the exhaust valve.

The exhaust fan is installed on the inside of the hole made in the wall, and check valve and a protective grill - from the outside

A timer can be used to automate the process. You will need to select a time schedule, in accordance with these settings, the valve will turn on and off at a given time. It may be more effective to use a sensor that reacts to the level of humidity in the room.

In this case, the device will start working when the air in the room becomes too humid, and when the humidity drops, the fan will stop. When choosing automatic control devices, you should make sure that the previously established settings are retained when the power supply is turned off.

To ensure good air exchange in the room, a sufficiently powerful fan must be used. A unit that is weak in this respect simply cannot cope with the movement of a large volume of air masses, as a result, ventilation will not be efficient enough.

The choice of a place for installing a wall ventilation damper is based on the requirements specified in the instructions by the manufacturer of the device.

When calculating, they usually use a simple formula:

M = O * B

• M is the required fan power;
• О - the volume of the room in which the device will be installed;
• B - increasing the coefficient of air exchange.

It is possible to calculate the volume of a room, as is known from the school mathematics course, as the product of the area and the height of the room. The air exchange coefficient is determined depending on the purpose of the room.

This indicator should be:

• for a separate toilet - 8;
• for the kitchen - 15;
• for a bathroom or a combined bathroom - 20.

It remains only to determine the volume of the room and multiply it by the appropriate factor in order to obtain an indicator that will help you choose a valve with a sufficiently powerful fan. You should not take an overly powerful model, this will only cause unnecessary costs and will not have a beneficial effect on the ventilation process.

When calculating the power of the exhaust fan, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of such equipment to the resistance of the system. The presence of a decorative grill and valve can reduce the speed of movement of the air flow by three to five or even ten times. Therefore, you should not choose a device with the minimum size and power.

The fan capacity must be sufficient for the exhaust air to escape through the valve. adjacent premises, and not just from the room in which the device is installed. Before starting work on the installation of an exhaust damper with a fan, it is necessary to select a suitable place.

The vent hole is best done at the top outer wall, this position contributes to the efficient removal of exhaust air

To do this, use a wall that is as far as possible from the place where fresh air is taken. Usually, supply ventilation is installed in the walls or windows of rooms such as a bedroom or living room.

For exhaust ventilation, a kitchen or is more suitable. As a result, unpleasant odors, excess water vapor, etc. are also discharged with the exhaust air.

The hole for the exhaust valve should be made in the upper part of the wall. First, markup is performed, then drilling begins. A hole of a suitable size is made with a drill and a nib drill. Sometimes you have to use a special tool with a diamond tip.

The opening for the exhaust valve must be sized and configured to match the dimensions of the fan. This is usually a round device, but sometimes it is more convenient to use a device with a square body. In this case, the hole for the valve must be hollowed out using a perforator with a paddle-shaped attachment.

The diameter and shape of the hole in the wall for installing the exhaust damper must match the characteristics of the fan that comes with the device.

Such work is usually accompanied by a large amount of dust, from which even the use of an industrial vacuum cleaner does not save. Before starting drilling, cover the surfaces with foil or other suitable materials to protect them from contamination.

A core drilling machine can be used to drill extra thick exterior walls made of durable materials. This is expensive equipment and is cheaper to rent than buy. Specialized firms provide core drilling services at a relatively low price, which depends on the drilling depth and wall material.