What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

But what karateka does not know about this miracle shell? And it strengthens the tendons, and puts a blow, and fists ... And even kicks can be practiced on it. No modern paws that have similar names will replace it.

It would seem - what is difficult? I took the board. I wrapped one end of it with rope. He screwed the second one to the floor - and the trick is in the bag. But that's in theory. But in practice?

In practice, everything comes out a little more complicated.

Which board should you choose? What sizes? What to make a soft pad - a firing pin? How to fix it? To the floor or to the wall? And what?

I now have answers to most of these questions. It so happened that the Dojo that I opened this summer (), in addition to the main hall, has an additional, shell hall. And of course the idea to equip it with makiwars struck me immediately.

At the beginning, let's answer first question:

What to make of?Which tree to take?

What's the first thing that comes to mind? Go to a hardware store and take any board you like. What is the bottom line? And in the end, it will not bend and just break. But hard wood is just what we need. A thin hardwood board will bend without breaking.

Hardwoods include: oak, ash, teak. And alas, you won't be able to buy such a board in a hardware store. I could get the makiwara boards in my room only by acquaintance. Several beech boards for makiwars were given to me by Evgeny Borisovich Galitsyn, from the ones that have survived from the equipment of makiwars in his hall since Soviet times. Some of the boards were obtained from the furniture industry.

Question number two - what sizes?

Thickness first. It should be between 1.3 cm and 2.5 cm. A board thicker than this size stops bending. Striking such a makiwara is similar to striking the wall. You can stuff your fists, but you no longer have to put a blow.

And what if your board is too thick? I answer. It just needs to be cut. "Mister Plane" comes into play. The procedure is not easy and not fast. And of course the plane must be electric. Otherwise, the procedure may take a very long time.

The board must be grinded at an angle, incrementally. On one side, make 2 cm, and to the edge - 1.3 cm. Looking ahead, I will say that this is exactly what real Shureido branded makiwars do. Their base is thicker than the upper part.

Height

In general, there are no difficulties here. If you are making makiwara for yourself, just stand in the Zenkutsu dachi stance and straighten your fist forward. Approximately this will be the desired height. If the makiwara is made in the hall, then either there should be several of them, for different heights of students, or its height should change. The latter is extremely difficult to do. It should be possible to unscrew the board and lower it deeper. In general, this option is almost impossible to do at home, so let's just forget about it.

How to fix it?

This is perhaps the most interesting question. Makiwara is attached, as a rule, to the floor. For this, a special platform is used: a steel plate with four holes for fastening, and in the center a slot with sides, where, in fact, the board is inserted (see Fig.).

Well, now the actual question:

Can this be bought in a regular hardware store?

Of course not. Can you cook this yourself? Probably yes, if you are a welder or you have a friend who can do this. How much will such work cost? I have no idea. But I think not cheap.

Is there a way out? In search of a way out, I came across this product:

It is called “Open beam support”. This is a fastener for building a house made of wood. Sold in any hardware store. If you drill holes in the lower part, then with four bolts this product is perfectly screwed to the floor. The board is attached to the back by simply bolts and washers. If you take to use this mount, then pay attention to the fact that it gives a width limitation. A wide makiwara, more than 10 cm, can no longer be made.

A few words about the firing pin. In general, it is not difficult to make it. Of all the materials I have used, either thin touring rugs or just linoleum work best in my opinion. Linoleum with a thick base is especially suitable: 6 - 8 mm. Fasten it with the firm side to the board. And .. we can stop there. For myself, in general, more for aesthetic purposes, I wrapped the firing pin in leather. I just bought an old Turkish raincoat for Avito. Looks great!

Let's summarize

1. Board, oak. WxTxH 10x2x130cm - 1pc
2. Linoleum 25 × 25cm
3. Open support for timber - 1pc
4. Leather 25 × 25 cm
5. Floor anchors and washers. 10 × 100mm, 4pcs
6. Bolts and washers for fixing the board 10 × 20mm, 4 pcs

Tool:

1. Rotary hammer and impact drill 10 × 120 mm
2. Electric planer
3. Drill and drill bit 10 for wood
4. 10 spanner
5. Hammer
6. Stapler
7. Scissors

Price:

1. Open bar support ~ 300 r.
2. Leather coat ~ 500r
3. Linoleum - 0r
4. Anchors, washers and bolts ~ 200r.
5. Board ~ 1000r.

Total:~ 2000 RUR

I am often asked how and which makiwara to install at home. I thought it was no accident. This means that this topic may be of interest to many.

Well, there are a myriad of makiwara designs.
You can read about it at this link >>>>
http://www.budoshin.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=85:konstruktciimakivar&catid=20:osnariadah&Itemid=20

But not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment, because structure-borne noise from a rigidly mounted makiwara disturbs neighbors, and vibration from impacts can even, over time, destroy a wall or floor anchorage.

In this regard, the requirements are indicated in the "home makiwara":

1. relative "noiselessness"
2. small vibrations going "outside" the makiwara

Those. The makiwara must absorb "into itself" a significant part of the vibrations from impacts. There are 2 main ways to address these issues:

1. high inertia of the projectile, i.e. its large mass
2. shock absorbing structures

I will not go into numerous details, but I will just give 2 options that, in my opinion, are most suitable for home:

1. version of the makiwara from an old car tire (very cheap and cheerful, you can even achieve some aesthetics of the projectile); the shock-absorbing properties of rubber in combination with the geometry of the hollow torus make the projectile very quiet; picture >>> http://www.budoshin.ru/images/stories/Makiwara4.jpeg
2. the second option, I must say right away, is not cheap, but very functional and aesthetic, in addition, it is a real makiwara, not a surrogate

Makiwara "Tuning Fork Shilov":

It is easy to install in the apartment. Recently, I asked a friend of mine "in the shop" to send me a version of his home installation and feedback, which I provide here.

Option for placing a makiwara in an ordinary apartment apartment building.

Hello, Mikhail Yurievich!
I answer to your questionnaire:
1.with packing, shipping and appearance(although it is not that important) everything is fine;
2. makiwara even exceeded expectations;
3. I fixed it quite simply - I put rubber and pulled it to the wall with 160 self-tapping screws….

……………………………..

Best regards Shubny Denis

This is part of the letter.
And here are Denis's photos, which show that he installed the makiwara right in his apartment.

Makiwara ... Such a mysterious word, which has recently been heard more and more often among sports fans, and especially karateka. What is it - makiwara?

First, let's take a look at where this word came from. Makiwara is a special trainer for karateka, an analogue of a punching bag, which allows you to train punches and increase their power and accuracy. In karate, makiwara appeared in the days of the ancient Chinese imperial dynasties, and has actually been used since the very creation of karate as such. As we remember, in ancient times, karate was not just a sport, but also a way to survive, on which life and health often depended. And it was not uncommon when only one blow determined the winner of the fights. Makiwara was used to train such accurate knockout strikes. Then she was set on the ground wooden board, one end of which was dug deep into the ground, and the other was tied with straw. As the training of the fighter grew, the amount of straw decreased, and over time, the straw was removed altogether, and the fighter practiced strikes on the board.

And although more than one century has passed since then, the makiwara has not changed. Of course, with the advent of new materials such as polyethylene foam or foam rubber, straw as a material for creating makiwara is no longer so popular, but in all other respects makiwara has remained the same as it was hundreds of years ago.
Why is it needed? By creating a makiwara at home, you will not only improve your hitting technique, but also strengthen the ligaments and tendons, and increase the strength of bones and muscles. What do we need for this?

So, we need to prepare: polyurethane foam (the material from which rugs for hiking trips are made), tarpaulin, leatherette or leather, several elastic bands, each about three centimeters wide and Velcro.

What's the best for making makiwara? Each of the above materials has both pros and cons. When using tarps in sewing makiwara, you risk injuring your hands and scratching the skin on your fists while practicing punches. In addition, when training outdoors in the rain or when placing a makiwara, for example, on a wet tree, the tarpaulin gets wet quickly, which, of course, negatively affects the quality of training.

As for leather or leatherette, the main drawback of such material is its price, which is an order of magnitude higher than the price of tarpaulin or burlap.

Now it's time to sew on the elastic bands for attaching our makiwara. To do this, take four elastic bands, each about seventy centimeters long, and sew one elastic for each seam of the makiwara.

Why do we need Velcro, which was discussed at the beginning of the article? They must be sewn along the seams near the makiwara plate, while being careful not to place the Velcro on its striking surface. This is important so that while practicing the blows, you do not fall on the Velcro and do not injure your hands on them. Velcro sewn near the seams will allow us to open the compartments of the makiwara with the plates without embroidering the seams, which means that it will be possible to replace the plates worn out from impacts without violating the overall integrity of the structure.

And finally, it remains to figure out where and how to attach the resulting makiwara. Such a makiwara is attached to any tree with a trunk thickness of about ten to fifteen centimeters. An important condition: the tree must be flexible and slightly sag from your blows. It is very simple to check this: if the tree, when you press on it with your hand, bends, then it is suitable for training. Please note that if you ignore this condition, you risk injuring your joints.

In this article, you will learn:

• How to make makiwara for karate
• How to use makiwara for karate
• How to choose a makiwara for karate

For some reason, modern methods of teaching karate in most cases do not imply the use of a sufficiently effective simulator - makiwara. Meanwhile, every person who is professionally engaged in karate should know that basic exercises with this projectile are capable of delivering a good blow and adjusting the technique. You will learn about what a makiwara for karate is, how to use it during training and whether it is possible to make such a projectile with your own hands from our article.

Why do you need makiwara for karate

Makiwara- a multifunctional device designed for practicing strikes, stuffing striking surfaces, used in contact martial arts. It is believed that the design of the makiwara for karate has Okinawan, Japanese origin, and directly the technique of working with it came from China - during training they began to use it in Shaolin monasteries, practicing blows on trees and logs dug into the ground. Thus, the monks sought to temper certain parts of the body and staging a blow.

Many developers are trying to complicate and improve the design of existing simulators, to make their own unique contribution that will bring fame and good profit. In those days, when your dinner depended on victory over the enemy, few people thought about the reconstruction of shells. And the makiwars were practically the only assistants in the training of karatekas.

The systematic hitting of the makiwara for karate was the most effective exercise for staging a blow: the fist was strengthened; the body got used to the stress; the body adjusted to the impact as much as possible. In most cases, the presence of a makiwara for karate near the house and a couple of learned kata were already considered prerequisites for the upbringing of a future master.

Some people think that karate makiwara is only for padding striking surfaces. According to others, training with its help cannot develop anything but the power of the blow. And only part of them understands that the correct technique of working with this projectile allows you to work out many components of a really powerful blow.

We propose to consider these aspects in order, but make a reservation that they are all equally significant:

• hardening and stuffing of impact surfaces;
• formation of stabilization of the links participating in the impact (shock links), functional stabilization of the shock link;
• constructive stabilization of the percussion link (anatomical deformities, often associated with compensatory hypertrophy or tissue replacement);
• development of the optimal position of the body and its parts in space to achieve maximum impact force;
• creating a sense of distance to deliver a powerful blow;
• the development of skills for maintaining the force of the blow during the entire reception due to the correct coordination between the muscles and within them;
• developing the skill to imitate a blow not on the surface of the target, but at a certain distance from it (in depth), but at the same time not to replace a controlled blow with a blow with a carry;
• working out the ability to put the whole body into a blow, since it is simply unrealistic to break through a too hard makiwara for karate to the depth of the intended level with a blow only at the expense of the muscles of the limbs;
• teaches to attack forcefully and immediately abruptly remove the striking part of the body in order to have time to prepare for the next technical action.

How is makiwara used in karate

The masters of the past years did not describe very extensively the methods of working with makiwara for karate.

For example, Itosu Anko wrote: “In Tode, the strength of the arms and legs is very important, and therefore they must be carefully trained on the makiwara. During the exercises, lower your shoulders, straighten your lungs, concentrate your strength, rest your feet firmly on the floor and grab the ground with your toes, lower your internal energy (ki) into the lower abdomen (seika tanden). Do the exercise on each hand at least a hundred or two hundred times. "

When extending the right hand during a punch, the fist should be turned down with the inner side. It should be noted that it is necessary to begin to unfold the fist in the second part of the path from the chest to the makiwara.

It is necessary to hit the makiwara for karate with the big knuckles of the index and middle fingers. So, with an impact, the strength of which is about 80%, the hand should be pulled back with one hundred percent force.

Let's describe an approximate method of working with makiwara for karate for a beginner athlete.

Preparatory stage

Try one technique first to improve intramuscular coordination and, as a result, punch force.

To begin with, stand in front of the karate makiwara at the final point of impact (rest the impact surface of the fist against the firing pin). Straighten your arm, rest the heel of your hind leg on the floor so that your toes dig into the coating (Ki expands forward, perpendicular to the striker). The thigh should be ready to finish the power / kime discharge.

ATTENTION! This exercise can only be done by warming up the muscles well beforehand, otherwise the risk of injury is very high. You can knead the body with several repetitions of an isometric exercise, which is similar in shape to a punch.

Now try alternately with your left and right hands to inflict 10 punches / dumps into the makiwara for karate, without lifting your fist from the striker.

Check out the list of the most common mistakes to avoid their repetition:

• before the blow, the fist breaks off the striker and, picking up speed, crashes into the makiwara for karate;
• the blow is reproduced due to the muscles of the arm, which is bent at the elbow;
• during the impact, the scapula is separated from the back - keep the muscles of the chest and armpits in good shape;
• the pelvis falls forward during the impact (reason: there is not enough structure, the abdomen is untimely tense or its muscles are slowly contracting, which can lead to infringement of the intervertebral discs of the lumbar spine) - try to keep the muscles of the abdomen and buttocks in good shape;
• the pelvis goes back during the impact (reason: the desire to hit with the shoulder often entails a failure) - keep the tension in the muscles of the abdomen and buttocks;
• the heel comes off during the impact (reason: the desire to hit the shoulder ballistically), which leads to a breakdown of the structural chain, and since the strength of the chain is equal to the strength of the weakest link, the impact force will be proportional to the strength of the gastrocnemius muscle.

Control yourself: with full effort, the leg comes off the floor by 5 mm. The structure of the body remains the same.

First stage

Those who are just starting to learn karate should learn first on a soft apparatus. We do not mean padding the makiwara for karate with soft foam, you just need to choose a board with the minimum stiffness.

Take the back stance kokutsu-dachi, the front palm should touch the fist of the makiwara for karate, palm or fist (depending on the school: we have the palm in priority, and in Shotokan - the fist) of the back hand - to the side (floating ribs). Place your back foot in the attack / strike line. The forearm of the back hand should be directed axially to the striker of this projectile, but sometimes in schools it is required to keep the forearm parallel to the axis of the body (pressed to the side).

The back hand (right or left) strikes the seiken-giyaku-tsuki. The beginning of the action comes from the tanden, or, more simply, from the hips (the second principle of attaching the body to the blow). Then the karateka from the posture of kokutsu-dachi (fudo-dachi) goes into zenkutsu-dachi (front stance), producing the third principle of investing the body in the blow. And the action ends with the final position in which the fist, shoulder and foot are in one line.

In some schools, they teach a blow in the projection of its own axis (when the hand goes a little inward), however, we believe that head-on collisions should be avoided, so it is better not to linger on the line of attack.

When the striker is touched, kime / force release occurs, the striker is pressed in at least to the depth of the fist (5–7 cm) and the position formed (with the striker pressed in) is maintained for a second or more (you need to focus on the training goal). After that, the hand gradually returns to its original position.

Novice fighters hit the makiwara for karate 100 times with both hands alternately (about 10 minutes of leisurely training). At first, the strikes (about 10%) are performed easily at a slow pace, but with each touch of the projectile, the force of the strike should increase. Please note that a light touch does not at all imply bending of the beating hand, it is just that the body is not fully invested in the blow. This can be seen from the deflection of the striker of this device. With each successive blow, the makiwara should deflect more until it reaches its extreme point.

Concentrate on "punching" the target and letting your punch through the target. The main focus should be on the coordination of your movements. They must all stop at the same time. Avoid looseness! Ki is in tanden and extends through the arm through the target and through the back leg to the floor.

Vary your strikes by removing your feet from the attack line and locking them in place.

DIY karate makiwara

In an effort to get in better shape and hone your skills, it is not forbidden to use a makiwara for karate made by yourself.

Portable makiwara

This is the easiest way to make karate makiwara. To do this, prepare: a travel mat, some kind of fabric (even worn jeans will do), laces and threads. First, cut the rug into pieces, the size and softness of which depends on the end purpose (size and softness of the fixture).

For beginner fighters, it is better to use at least three layers of the rug, and then, over time, gradually reduce their number. Then sew a cover for the future makiwara from the existing fabric, taking into account its parameters. Place rugs inside the cover and sew the free edge (preferably on a typewriter, but you can also manually).

If you have a desire to make a karate makiwara with several sections, just separate it using seams (for example, if you sew in the middle, you get two sections), after which you can bend it without much effort and tie it, say, in two layers.

Makiwara made from tire

To make such a makiwara for karate you will need: a long board, old tire, six bolts and nuts, a camping mat or string, and possibly a chain for securing.

Saw the board into three equal parts, the length of which will be equal to the diameter of the wheel. Use bolts to secure one plank in the middle of the tire and the other two on the sides, on the back. Tie a rug to the center board or wrap it with twine (depending on the density of the padding).

Ready-made karate makiwara can be fixed on the wall using boards on the sides of the tire, or you can use a chain (in this case, the boards do not need to be attached). The main advantage of this projectile is that it will spring regardless of the place of its attachment, which is an important factor when setting a strike.

Classic makiwara

Required ingredients: a flat board, twine or camping mat, a few bricks. Nothing complicated: dig a small hole, partially immerse a board in it, reinforce it with bricks and bury it. Attach a rug to the board or wrap with twine. We also advise you to cover the board with a primer so that it does not get damp in the ground and the karate makiwara will serve you for a long time.

Makiwara for karate: features of choice

The makiwara-paws for karate are a projectile, which is intended, first of all, for practicing hand techniques. When choosing them, focus on the goal that you want to achieve by further working with this projectile.

If you need to hit, then you should look at passive and heavy paws with high inertia.

Only by working with such a model, you are guaranteed not to injure the hands of the one who will hold your paws - the padman.

Heavy makiwara paws for karate are also good because they allow you to fully feel the feedback. As you practice the blows, you will definitely feel good resistance and recoil. Thanks to this, you will be able to better control your technique - important aspect when staging a blow.

It is desirable that, at first, the structure of the paw allows even inexperienced users to deliver powerful strikes with bare hands.

In this regard, the paw should not be too stiff. It is best if it is large, thick and soft enough.

If you need to work out tactics on the makiwara paws, the resistance of the projectile to the strike is not as significant as during staging work. That is, the paws in this case can be chosen much easier and tougher. But keep in mind that you will be both protected and bare-handed to work on them.

Let's talk about the shape and size of the projectile. A variety of options are allowed.

Staging paw choose a large enough size. Of course, professional fighters can also use a small projectile to practice accuracy in a powerful blow. But beginners to this level need to train for a long time.

Tactical paws must be small size... Only such a projectile will help to develop the required accuracy of the strike. However, the welt of such makiwara paws must have parameters that allow them to strike and counterattack.

The significant point is the shape of the paw.

It is better if the impact surface is absolutely flat. Thus, when placing a fist (especially with an unprotected hand), it will be possible to feel the points of contact and the angles of application of force.

In turn, the padman, by changing these angles, can very effectively "train" the fighter, correctly "bring" the fist to the target. This is worth paying attention to.

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Outline of the article:

• elasticity is the main quality of makiwara
• design solutions that provide elasticity
• detailed consideration of 2 basic design principles of ensuring the elasticity of makiwara:

1. elastic striker

• specific implementation options constructive solutions both options

1. elastic striker

• a measure of the required elasticity of a structure
• fastening methods for practicing various techniques
• preferred designs
• makiwara "Tuning Fork" designed by Shilov (specially designed and long-term tested materials, objective assessment of impact force, interchangeable strikers, adjustment of rigidity and elasticity of makiwara, options for mounting on a horizontal and vertical surface)

Elasticity is the main quality of makiwara

Makivars are the most various designs, but the fundamental element of every "real" makiwara is a spring element - the firing pin, on which the blows are struck. This condition is mandatory and indisputable.

All makiwaras widely available on the market and representing a wall cushion with very relative springy properties, as well as protectors in the form of a pillow, which must be held by a partner, in the strict sense of the word, are not makiwaras. Although if you call any device designed to strike at it, then of course ... However, then bags, pears, paws, etc. should be called makiwara.

The striker must necessarily deform upon impact, providing elastic resistance to the impacting surface. This is what provides all the variety of aspects that can be worked out simultaneously only on this unique projectile. The vast majority of other projectiles can only provide a selective (selective) study of some of the qualities of the impact or changes in the properties of the impact link (the anatomical structure that is hit).

If makiwara does not have elastic properties, then it is suitable only for filling and hardening impact surfaces, and this is a very small range of tasks that can be solved with the help of makiwara training.

Structural solutions that provide elasticity

The problem of ensuring the elasticity of makiwara can be solved in two main ways, which can be used both in isolation from each other and in combination:

• elastic can be directly the element itself, on which the impact is struck
• elasticity can be created by a spring system that holds the relatively inelastic firing pin in a stable position

Detailed consideration of the 2 basic design principles of ensuring the elasticity of the makiwara

The design of the makiwara depends on which method of the above 2 methods is used to resolve the issue of elasticity.

Elastic striker

The spring properties of the striker are provided by the material from which it is made, as well as by its geometry.

Materials can be very diverse:

• elastic wood
• rubber
• plastic
• metal

In the case of a rubber striker, the resilience is provided primarily by the very properties of the material. When using plastic and wood, the geometry of the striker becomes an important, or rather, the main point that ensures the elasticity of the makiwara. How it looks will be described below, in the section with descriptions of specific design options.

It is important to note that often to enhance the elastic properties of the striker, combined structures of the latter are used. Those. on a relatively hard firing pin, which provides elasticity only due to its geometry (wood), an overlay is made of an elastic material (rubber).

Elastic properties of strikers made of solid materials(wood, plastic, metal) can be provided not only by the geometry, as such, but also by the design of the striker itself. So, for example, a multi-layer board, glued like plywood, is used, which can, with a smaller thickness, have greater strength and elasticity than a solid board. Etc.

A spring system that ensures the resilience of the striker

A spring system is a structure that, due to its shock-absorbing properties, is capable of resisting the impact link throughout the entire length of the impact and bringing the striker back to its original position immediately after the impact of the impact surface on it stops.

There are designs and ways to implement this idea and do not yet exist, but an incredible amount can exist. Here, the human genius can not limit himself in anything ...

They use both objects adapted for this purpose with the necessary properties from various machines, aggregates, etc. (shock absorbers, springs, springs, various objects with elastic properties), and specially designed structures, which, in fact, are the same shock absorbers, springs and springs.

They can be roughly divided into 2 groups:

1. which are a direct continuation of the striker; they are attached to the latter in various ways along its axis and, being fixed in a fixed base; It is they who provide the springiness of the relatively rigid and inelastic striker;
2. which are quite independent design, which is not a continuation of the striker, but providing resistance to the striking link throughout the entire length of the strike and bringing the striker back to its original position immediately after the impact of the striking surface on it stops

How it looks, see below.

Specific options for the implementation of constructive solutions of both options

Here I will consider the most common, commonly used and simple options since in fact, you can endlessly improvise on the topic of construction, knowing the fundamental principles of makiwara design I described above.

Elastic striker

fixed structure made of elastic material (rubber):

• a thick piece of micropore ("foam rubber") or other material attached to a stationary surface; the material should strongly, but with resistance, deform (miss) upon impact, coming after it to its original state
• a structure made of an elastic material (rubber) in the form of a ring fixed on a fixed surface; the structure should strongly, but with resistance, deform (miss) upon impact, coming after it to its original state ( car tire, a piece of cover from a rubberized shaft used on conveyors or other mechanisms in production); in the place where the blow is struck, a special site can be made, although this is not necessary; this design is good in that it allows, without changing the position of the body, to work out strikes at different (small) angles

fixed rigid firing pin, which has elastic properties due to its geometry and design (material: wood, plastic, metal):

• a board of resilient wood fixed in the same way, a sheet of plastic, a plate of resilient metal, a type-setting plate of one or more materials; blows can be applied only on 2 surfaces, and to practice techniques whose trajectory is different from a straight line, it is necessary to significantly change the position of the body in relation to the makiwara;

A spring system that ensures the resilience of the striker

a system that is a direct continuation of the striker (the striker is attached to a fixed spring system with high spring characteristics, which is its continuation):

• car spring
• elastic metal plate
• laminated wood plate
• etc.

a system that provides springiness with respect to an inelastic striker:

A measure of the required elasticity of a structure

The elasticity of the entire structure should be such as to ensure that the striker deflects from the initial position by about 10 - 20 cm, guaranteeing the structural integrity of the projectile (i.e., it will not break with such a deflection). The latter can be provided with special limiters that do not allow the striker to deviate over a greater distance.

10 - 20 cm - this is exactly the "depth" to which you need to "stick" your hand into the enemy, to ensure guaranteed destruction of internal organs (with less penetration, you can simply leave a bruise on the contact surface).

However, I will not go deep into the questions of working with makiwara. Here I am only examining the design of the projectile and its characteristics.

Mounting methods for practicing various techniques

This is paradoxical, but for many it is a revelation that absolutely the entire range of blows can be practiced on the makiwara.

Many, but not all, understand that to practice side impacts, you need to stand at an angle to the makiwara. But almost no one realizes that the makiwara can be installed not only vertically, but also horizontally, and even at an angle.

One thing is important - the striker of the makiwara must resist the striking surface along the axis of the strike, but with a force exactly opposite in the vector, the force of the strike.

Preferred designs

Specific preferences in the design of the makiwara should be objectively formed based on the properties that a projectile of a particular modification possesses.

Required properties (not in order and not in importance - just in a row):

• the necessary and sufficient amplitude of the striker deviation from the initial state
• objective possibility of assessing the force of the blow by deflection of the striker
• strength
• elasticity and springiness
• the ability to change and adjust the rigidity, elasticity and springiness
• convenience (the ability to stand at the required angles in relation to the makiwara)

it important criteria to work on makiwara and assess progress.

There are criteria that are less significant, but desirable:

• possibility of quick assembly - disassembly
• the ability to mount at different angles and in different planes
• the ability to objectively measure the resistance force (dynamometer)
• hit counter (generally pampering, but useful)
• and so on and so forth.

You can listen to this and other user reviews of the Kamerton Shilova makiwara by following the link below

Official site Makivara "Tuning fork of Shilova"

www.makiwara.ru

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Makivara BADYUKA-SHILOVA (MBSH)

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