What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Before carrying out work with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to accurately determine their number. In addition, you need to choose a tool that will carry out work on screwing in self-tapping screws.

It is not difficult to calculate the exact number of self-tapping screws for work. After that, you need to go to any hardware store and purchase the required amount of hardware. In any hardware store there is a wide range of similar products, but self-tapping screws are most often sold by weight. Our calculation of self-tapping screws will help to find the correspondence between weight and quantity, as well as to calculate the acquisition costs. In addition, do not forget that you need to purchase the correct type of self-tapping screws. They are for wood and universal. Although universal self-tapping screws can also be easily screwed into a tree, it is still recommended not to do this, since the small grooves of such self-tapping screws, given the viscosity of the wood, will not guarantee that the fastening will hold for a long time.

Now you need to choose a tool for installing screws. It is worth noting that the caps of the self-tapping screws can have not only different sizes, but also different cavities for screwdrivers. These indentations can be not only for a flat or Phillips screwdriver, but also for a special type of screwdrivers and keys. If you dig even deeper, it turns out that the cross-shaped depressions can have different shapes and sizes.

So, in order not to have problems with the installation of such a hardware as a self-tapping screw, you must have in stock either a suitable screwdriver or a screwdriver with an impressive set of interchangeable nozzles. It must be remembered that during the operation of the screwdriver, its attachments will wear out, so you need to take care of their regular replacement. Moreover, it is better not to wait until the nozzle breaks, but to replace it in advance, since a breakdown can be taken by surprise at the most inopportune moment for this. You also need to choose the right nozzles. The longest will serve nozzles made of tool steel with various hardening additives. The attachments must be carefully selected and must be tried on to the head of the hardware. Do not take the first nozzle that comes across. It is better to try on everything, and then make a choice.

The choice between a screwdriver and a screwdriver is obvious if you need to work with a large number of self-tapping screws. If the work is simple, which consists in mounting several hardware, then you can use a screwdriver. The main thing is that it is comfortable and has a thick wooden or rubberized handle. In other cases, it is better to take a screwdriver. It is very easy and quick to tighten the self-tapping screw. When choosing a screwdriver, it must be borne in mind that there are two types of these devices. There are mains-powered screwdrivers and cordless screwdrivers. It is better to refrain from purchasing a cheap cordless screwdriver, because it is completely unsuitable for prolonged work. Such devices do not like long downtime, and they also often lack control over battery charging. Therefore, if you choose a screwdriver, then it is worth: either look towards expensive professional battery solutions, or just buy a device powered from the mains.

The level is designed to determine the height difference between several points. Modern laser levels can also build horizontal and vertical planes in space, or rather their projection on surfaces.

The laser level is very easy to use. To build planes in a room, just install it on a tripod or a horizontal surface and turn it on. Most laser levels automatically align the beams. A point, line or cross will be drawn on the surface opposite the instrument. Additional lines and points may be projected depending on the design of the instrument.

To draw a horizontal or vertical line, it is enough to set one point in height and align it with the laser line. You can already work with the resulting projections: hang pictures, apply markings, check the vertical or horizontal surfaces.

The most common uses for a laser level.

If you need to hang several paintings horizontally, then simply expose the laser line at the level of the bottom or top of the painting. Further, relative to the resulting line, mark the installation locations of the fasteners. Install the mounts and hang the paintings, aligning them with the laser line.

You can also align the countertop, wardrobe, doors, table, TV, mirror and more.

Wood is usually a very soft material. You can even drill a hole in wood by hand - just dig it out. But it is much more convenient to use a drill or a screwdriver.

Drill photo

An ordinary household drill is inexpensive. If you do not have a drill yet and you only need to drill wood and not drill concrete or brick, then choose any.

The choice of a drill for drilling concrete and brick is described in the article "How to drill a hole in concrete or brick".

For drilling wooden structures using a drill, you need to set small rotations of the drill, turn off the percussion mechanism (if it is present and turned on). When drilling a tree at high speed, chips and cracks will form in the tree.
Depending on the purpose, diameter, depth and clarity of the hole for drilling in wood, different drills are used.

Photo drilled on wood

You need to start by marking the center of the future hole. After that, it is advisable to make a small depression with a core so that the drill does not slip at the very beginning.
The workpiece must be fixed. To do this, you can use a vice or just some kind of emphasis. It is also often used to fix the workpiece sandpaper glued to something immovable.
To drill through holes, you must use a substrate - a wooden throw or a board. She has 2 appointments. Firstly, when using a substrate, you will not spoil the floor or workbench, and secondly, when the drill passes through, the probability of chipping decreases due to the fact that at the end you simply continue to drill the substrate without creating a jerk.
For drilling blind holes, pre-prepared cubes with a hole are used, which limit the depth of the drill.
When drilling holes of large diameters, a hole is first made 2-3 times smaller than the target hole.

Holes large diameter drilled with a core drill. Variety big hole serves as a blind recess for the hinges. It is usually done with a drill w ...

For drilling in concrete or brick, a hammer drill is usually used. Often there is no such rather expensive device in everyday life, so the holes can be drilled with an ordinary drill with an impact function. The speed of drilling holes in concrete or brick with a drill is much lower, since it is the impact that pierces these materials. The hammer drill is designed for percussion drilling.

Perforator

For drilling (drilling) holes with a hammer drill, special drills are used.

The drill is not intended for drilling, but for "punching" holes in concrete or brick. Standard drill shank diameters are 10 and 18 mm with slots for SDS + and SDS-max.

Drill

To drill concrete and brick structures with a drill, you need to set small rotations of the drill, turn on the percussion mechanism and use a special drill with a hard alloy tip (usually artificial diamond will win).

Photo drills with a winner

An ordinary household drill is inexpensive. If you do not have a drill yet and you need to drill concrete or brick, then choose according to the following characteristics:

• power from 600W
• the ability to adjust the speed
• impact function
• the presence of a reverse will be useful if you want to use the drill as a screwdriver
• chuck preferably self-locking (without using a key)

How to drill concrete or brick

After you have made sure that there is no danger of drilling in the selected location, you need to mark the drilling location. If a hole is drilled to fix the picture on one self-tapping screw, then high accuracy is not needed. You can just grab a drill and start drilling. If you need to drill with greater accuracy or you need several holes, for example, to mount a shelf, mirror or TV, then drilling in a simple way can lead to an unexpected result: one of the holes can be displaced a considerable distance from the planned location. This can be due to irregularities in the structure of the materials you are drilling, or due to an incorrect drilling angle, or simply due to gravity and coincidence.

To accurately drill holes, you need to make a so-called jig.

Photo of the conductor

At home, any block or other object on which you can lean a drill or drill on one side and fix it on the surface on the other can serve as a conductor. For example, a tablet with already drilled hole that is fixed to the wall. To fix, you can lean on corners, floor, ceiling or protruding parts.
So that at the beginning of drilling the drill does not move out of the intended place, you can apply a small depression in the designated place with a nail, chisel, core or something else and start drilling from it.

So, after we have planned our hole, put a mark on the wall, prepared a jig or decided to drill without it, we take a drill. We fix the drill in it. We mark the drilling depth on the drill, for example, by winding a piece of electrical tape.

Photo of the whole structure

Now we set a small speed, turn on the percussion mechanism, aim, holding the drill perpendicular to the surface and start drilling. As you go through the unevenness of the wall, you may come across hard pebbles or reinforcement. And of course the drill will warm up. You need to take a short break and cool the drill approximately every minute of drilling. And it is fashionable to drill some concrete structures with an ordinary drill for 5-10 minutes or more.

If the drill rested against something, then depending on the material of the obstacle there are several ways to deal with it. If it is metal - fittings and we did not find it with a metal detector, then first think about the wiring. Maybe we didn't find her either? Then take a drill bit for metal and drill this reinforcement. However, reinforcement in concrete is not just like that, it performs the function of increasing the strength of concrete. Therefore, it is still better to bypass the reinforcement, determining its location in advance. If it is a stone, then you can take a hammer and use any drill or fine chisel to break this stone. Stones and compaction are not obstacles to the hammer drill.

As a result of drilling, you get a hole of the right diameter and the right depth in concrete or brick.

The painting is usually mounted on the wall at one point. That is, in order to hang a picture, you need to place a hook, screw, nail or something similar on the wall in order to hook the picture onto it.

Pictures are different:

1. small photo in a frame
2. usual small picture from the store
3. big picture from the store
4. expensive canvas

1. brick or concrete
2. drywall
3. wood
4. foam block or gas silicate

When the painting is in place, mark its borders with a pencil. Top and side are preferable.

If the picture has one mount, then feel free to mark the center. To do this, use a tape measure or a ruler to divide the distance between the extreme marks into hits. Measure the distance from the mount to the top edge of the painting and set it aside from your mark on the wall. The resulting intersection will be your nail or screw.

If your picture is large, then you need to mount it at two points. The distance between them is usually equal to half the width of the picture. Here you will need to do a little magic with a ruler and a pencil and, by analogy, mark two places horizontally for placing the fasteners.

If you have wallpaper glued to your walls, and the picture is small, like a framed photograph without glass, then an ordinary pin inserted into the wallpaper can withstand its weight. In order to increase the load capacity of the pin, first stick paper or a piece of tape onto the wallpaper, so that the pin is inserted approximately in the center of the pasted material. It is better not to hang more than half a kilogram on such a mount.

If the wall is painted, then the wallpaper can be simulated by sticking a small piece of paper with PVA glue or a moment and let it dry for about a day.

If the wallpaper is poorly glued in the place where the picture will be hung, then you can carefully cut out a piece of wallpaper and glue a piece of paper onto the place cleared of wallpaper, as described above.

It is easy to screw the screw into drywall and wood without drilling. To do this, you need a screwdriver and a screw. How to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly, see the article "how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly"

You can drive a nail into wood, drywall, or even plaster. This will require a hammer. How to hammer a nail, see the article on how to hammer a nail correctly.

If you have a wall made of brick, concrete or gas silicate or covered with a thick layer of plaster, you will have to drill to install the dowel and screw in the self-tapping screw. How to drill a hole in the wall read in the article "How to drill a hole in the wall", how to install a dowel in "How to install a dowel".

After the work done, do not forget to erase the marks made with a pencil.
We hang our picture on the resulting nail, screw or hook. There are several ways to align:

1. visually
2. by bubble level
3. by laser level

If you need to hang several pictures in a row, then read the article "How to Hang Several Pictures Exactly"

There are many articles that describe how to sharpen a knife with different tools and at what angle.
I want to emphasize the practical aspect of this simple task.

You can sharpen a knife with several tools.

Grindstone

Sharpening on a stone or rough block continues until a strip of metal appears on the knife edge along the entire cutting edge. After that, you need to use a bar with a finer grain.
When the knife moves along the bar, the angle must be kept the same between the knife and the bar. Bringing the knife to the end of the bar at the same time, it must be moved from the handle to the edge. Thus, sharpening the entire knife.

Mechanical knife

Photo of the instrument

Electrogun

Machine

Photo of the instrument

Professional

To move on to the question of how to tighten a self-tapping screw, it is important from the beginning to decide how to choose a self-tapping screw. If you have already chosen the self-tapping screw, then you can skip the first point.

The choice of self-tapping screws

There are also self-tapping screws with a herringbone profile. They are designed to be driven into plastic dowels when attaching skirting boards.

Photo of self-tapping screws with signatures

Self-tapping screws with a frequent thread pitch (usually 2 spirals similar to a rare pitch, offset from each other by 180 degrees) are used for screwing into metal.
Self-tapping screws are screwed into a tree with a rare pitch. Particleboard and plywood should not be confused with wood.
When tightening the self-tapping screw, it is important that the material is securely located in the thread grooves, and the material itself does not crack during this.

Self-tapping screws may have different kind hats both in size and shape.

Photo of hats with captions

Self-tapping tools

Often, screwdrivers contain many bits, which, by the way, can be used for both a screwdriver and a drill. It is better to choose nozzles containing hardening additives. These attachments will last longer.
Depending on the intensity of use, the attachments deform and become difficult to use. They begin to chew on the caps of the screws. Such attachments must be replaced.

General technology of screwing in self-tapping screws

Then insert a self-tapping screw into the resulting hole and start carefully so as not to damage the screw-in place and not displace the self-tapping screw, screw it in. As the self-tapping screw deepens into the material and is fixed in it, you need to increase the effort. Towards the end of screwing, you need to reduce the rotation speed again so as not to damage the material and the self-tapping screw (especially its head).

How to screw a self-tapping screw into wood, chipboard, fiberboard

How to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall

1. Installation of gypsum plasterboards on the wall
2. Screwing objects to the finished wall

If you screw objects to a plasterboard wall, then it will be optimal to pass it through and screw the self-tapping screw into the crate according to the same rules. Except for the deepening of the self-tapping head. Drywall itself is not a sufficiently durable material. Therefore, it is not advisable to hang heavy structures (shelves, TVs, etc.) on it. But pictures, light mirrors, some decorations can be hung on self-tapping screws directly twisted into drywall. You can also drive a nail into drywall.

How to screw a self-tapping screw into soft metals (aluminum, bronze, copper)

How to screw a self-tapping screw into plastic

How to screw a self-tapping screw into hard metals

How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, brick, plaster, screed, ceramic tiles

It is customary to hammer in nails with a hammer.

Hammer photo

The heavier the hammer, the harder it hits the nail. But in some cases, it is impossible to deliver strong blows, and it is not always convenient to work with large hammers.
In any case, the hammer should be significantly heavier than the nail.
Nails are also different. Some are designed to be driven into wood, others into concrete. There are steel nails or stainless ones. Nails have different caps.

Examples of nails

In any case, hammering in a nail consists in forceful action on it with a hammer or other heavy object. It is possible to drive a nail into soft materials such as wood without bumping by applying pressure, such as with a clamp or a vice. This is important when trying to drive a nail into a springy bar that you can't put on something.

Photo with clamp

The hardest part about hammering in a nail is probably getting started. After all, it is at the beginning that they most often beat the fingers with a hammer.
To keep your fingers, it is enough to hold the nail with something at a distance (for example, with pliers) or apply the first blows gently until the nail enters enough to hold on its own.

Photo of a nail in pliers

From my own experience, I will give several features of hammering nails.

If you want to connect several objects with nails, then in order for the connection to be strong enough, the nail must enter a sufficient depth. Also, nails need to be driven in at different angles so that when a load occurs, the connection is not broken.

Photo with two nails

If you need to hammer in a nail inside a recess, where you cannot crawl with a hammer, then you can use a piece of reinforcement, a bolt, another larger nail, or any other durable device.

Extender photo

Sometimes it is necessary to hammer in a nail close to the wall. To avoid damaging it, you can place a piece of plywood along the wall. This plywood can also serve as a hammer guide.

Photo guide

To prevent cracking of the board when driving a nail into the edge of the board, there is enough space where the nail will be hammered to seal. For example, slightly deepening a bolt or punch.

Photo of the seal

If you have to pull one structural element to another with a screw, in the first of them you should make the thread of the screw. The second will contain the smooth part of the screw, which is located immediately under the head. The smooth part must necessarily enter the body of the attracted fragment. Otherwise, you will not get a rigid adhesion of the planes due to the gap formed between them.

Countersink is done so that the countersunk head does not protrude on the surface of the part or fragment. Sometimes craftsmen neglect countersinks, believing that they can screw a screw into a soft material so that its head will go deep into the surface and will not protrude. Of course, sometimes this succeeds, and if you wish, you can tighten any screw without making a countersink in advance. However, it should be remembered that the hats will be damaged by such an impact on them, since they will have to find a "way out" under pressure, and, consequently, the presentation will be lost.

The slots of the screws can be:

• straight,
• cruciform.

Some screw models even have special plugs. They are put on a twisted head, visually hiding it. Models are presented, on the head of which there is no slot at all. They have to be tightened with a head or wrench.

Stages of work on fasteners

Manufacturers of screws do not always approach their products responsibly. There are screws on sale, in the caps of which the screwdriver is not inserted at all, for the reason that the slot is shallow, or there are burrs in it. It is better to throw them away. When purchasing good screws, adhere to some rules to tighten them securely and efficiently:

• drill a hole in the first part;
• make sure that the diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the screw (including its smooth part and thread);
• insert the screw into the hole without effort;
• drill a hole in the second part;
• check that its diameter coincides with the diameter of the screw, but without taking into account the thread, because the screw must enter here with effort;
• countersink the hole in the first piece.

If the foreman has a special drill that helps to combine the two steps (drilling and countersink), the process is simplified and accelerated. Please note that any special drill can only fit specific screw models.

Countersink

The screw will only screw into the second part if you approach the process scientifically, i.e. use special drills or do your work in stages. It will pass freely through the first part, and its cap will tightly pull one part to the second. In the case of using a small screw diameter, drilling is not required. You just need to apply force and make a hole with an awl.

Working with screws is associated with a number of subtleties. Sometimes you have to come up with a whole variety of tricks to tighten or unscrew the screw. For non-standard cases, these tricks have already been invented. For example, if you need to unscrew a screw that desperately "abuts", use an adjustable wrench. With this tool, the handle is clamped if it has edges, as well as the upper part of the slot. Press down on the screwdriver with one hand and turn the adjustable wrench with the other.

The hammer is also used successfully. The screwdriver is inserted into the slot, then you need to lightly tap on its handle with a hammer while rotating the screwdriver, just tap, and not knock hard. Screws "with character" are turned out using a heated soldering iron, which is pressed against the head. This "torture" usually helps.

Without apparent reasons difficulties also happen with twisting / unscrewing. It seems that the slot is not defective, and the screw is put in place, and the screwdriver is normal, but the process does not go on. Check if the working part of the screwdriver matches the slot of the screw. If the size does not match, the screwdriver will behave incorrectly, like a foot in the wrong shoe size.

There are times when the length of the screw is not enough to connect two fragments. In this case, a hole is drilled in the first of them, at first - equal to the diameter of the screw without thread, and then a second, blind hole is drilled in it, equal in diameter to the screw head. The screw and head will partially go deep into the first fragment. The hole can be putty so that it is not visible.

When tightening the screw with a screwdriver, choose a long model. The further the hand with the screwdriver is from the cap, the less the axis tilt will be. If you need to screw a screw into hard wood, be sure to drill a hole, and before screwing in, rub it with soap or vegetable oil... To strengthen the fasteners, many craftsmen use glue: they dip the screw into it, and only then screw it in. It enters the wood more easily, and then fixes it "tightly".

The modern market for construction fasteners offers the buyer wide choose self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, the reviews about these "little helpers" are not always flattering.

The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly and how to choose it correctly in general.

Types of self-tapping screws

There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair- for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - “screws” for wood are characterized by a large pitch (less frequent threading).

There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized ones. No, of course, it will not be difficult to screw them into these materials, but how well they will stick there is a big question. The fact is that the "raw material" into which the self-tapping screw is "immersed" must reliably lie in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to qualitatively position itself in the narrow "grooves" of the universal self-tapping screw.

Self-tapping tools

Fasteners can have caps of different sizes and recesses in them of various shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in the self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or screwdriver with a suitable attachment in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have nozzles for the corresponding tools, as they say, to the maximum. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since the wear of the devices during operation cannot be avoided.

Note! The best bits are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Do not stop your choice on the first set that comes across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.

If you plan to screw one or two self-tapping screws into an unstable surface, then you can work with a screwdriver. If it is more, you cannot do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as easy as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.

General screwing technology for self-tapping screws

Use an awl to make a small indentation in the place reserved for the self-tapping screw. Install the product "on position". Use careful but firm movements to rotate the part until it is deeply embedded and anchored in the material. Then the force can be increased. Towards the end of the "process", the speed must be reduced again - so as not to damage the screw.

How to screw screws into different materials?

Concrete

Many men, not knowing how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are "integrated" into concrete with the help of dowels - strong plastic "tubes". First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which "receives" the fastener.

Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise to grease the dowels with glue before installing. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.

Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even a hammer drill may not withstand, let alone a conventional one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal.

Brick, ceramic tile, screed

Self-tapping screws are screwed into these environments in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is, to work with tiles, it is better to take an ordinary drill, since it can crack from the excessive power of the hammer drill.

Copper, bronze, aluminum

Measure the shank diameter of the fastener excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Install the pointed jaws perpendicular to the self-tapping screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. With a drill with a diameter of one and a half millimeters smaller than the obtained value, make a hole in the material. Screw the self-tapping screw into the hole - and the job is done. Use parts with a universal thread.

Note! Before "piercing" the main structure, it is recommended to check the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product there. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw goes into the hole tight enough, but does not jam. In the event that the screw fails to "break through", you should work with a thicker drill. Too light twisting of the part symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw can pop out at any time.

Hard metals

The hole in the material must be equal to or slightly larger than the unthreaded bar diameter. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, it is almost impossible to screw these fasteners into cast iron.

Plastic

Not every plastic is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so it will not be superfluous to make sure before starting work that the material fits exactly. The technology of screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products are wood carvings.

Wood, fiberboard and chipboard

Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into the board? Believe me, nothing is easier. The basic rule is to use only wood screws. For hard types of wood, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, preliminary drilling of a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of splitting the material with a self-tapping screw. For thick softwood boards, this manipulation can be dispensed with.

If you are working:

• with hard wood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping rod (naturally, no thread);
• with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
• with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.

Drywall

Mark points on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal pitch between screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you are using a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product at maximum speed. After the self-tapping screw enters the surface by ½ it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to the minimum. When tightening with an ordinary screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally, it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not gypsum! This will ensure maximum strength of the future structure. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the "ill-fated" place needs to be putty, and a new fastener should be placed at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.

The type of self-tapping screws for drywall must be selected depending on the material used in the construction of the sheathing. For a metal frame, universal or metal self-tapping screws are required, for a wooden lathing - wood products.

How to properly tighten the unscrewed self-tapping screw?

The unscrewed part must be re-tightened exactly as it stood before. It is very important that the screw goes into the same groove, at the same angle. If the product "draws" a "new path" for itself, the reliability of the fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an already existing groove? Just insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. You do not need to press on a tight self-tapping screw, you just need to remove it and try again. A little effort is required only at the very end of screwing in.

Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of "work hitches".

During production, quite often you have to deal with work that requires fixing certain parts of wood. Of course, the most common connection methods are those that do not require pre-drilling. However, not all so simple. If you use long self-tapping screws, installation is not always smooth. Especially when it comes to hardwood such as oak, beech or even birch. In today's article, we will consider the easiest way to screw in long self-tapping screws without drilling.

Read in the article

Existing ways of doing this kind of work

When screwing a long self-tapping screw into wood, the cap often breaks off. Also, the splines on the bit or bit may break. Many will say that it is easier to pre-drill a hole for a screw, but this option is not always available. Drills of the required length and diameter are often not at hand. And this is where the tricks of home craftsmen come to the rescue, helping to cope with a similar problem.

Option # 1: using machine oil

This method has a right to exist, but only in part. The fact is that ordinary oil will not solve the problem. The only thing that can help with this approach is solidol or lithol. And then on condition that the attachment point is hidden. The fact is that even if the cap is thoroughly wiped after screwing in, over time around the self-tapping screw inside the wood will begin to char, darken, and the grease will seep. This will cause the paint to swell where the screw is located. When pasting, this area may darken, and the grease may come out.

Option number 2: soap to help the master

Not a bad way to help. You just need to rub the threads with soap or dip in thick soapy water. After this procedure, the self-tapping screw will go in much easier. But here, too, there was a problematic side.

The composition of the soap includes caustic (especially a lot of it in the household), which reacts with alloy steel, contributing to the development of corrosion. Of course, the process is not fast, but in a few years it will do its job. In any case, if the self-tapping screw is wrapped "dry", after 2-3 years it can be easily unscrewed, but when installing using soap it will be problematic. Therefore, this method should be used with caution, having thought carefully beforehand.

The best way to screw in a long self-tapping screw

So we got to the main point of today's article. There is a simple and safe way for wood and hardware to screw in long self-tapping screws without drilling. In fact, it can be compared with the previous one, however, instead of soap, an ordinary paraffin candle is used here. Of course, these days they are rarely used by anyone, but those who lived under the councils, when there were frequent power outages, still have them in their closets. Even cake candles will do, though.

Before you start screwing the hardware, its thread is abundantly rubbed with paraffin. When screwing in, under the influence of friction force, the screw and the wood are heated, which leads to the melting of the paraffin. It melts and soaks the wood around the screw. As a result, in addition to the fact that it becomes much easier to screw in the self-tapping screw, both the wood and the thread of the hardware are protected. Therefore, no matter how much time has passed, it can be easily turned out to replace the board or disassemble the structure.

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