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Pruning is an integral part of caring for roses in the garden or at home. This procedure is carried out to achieve a variety of goals aimed at rejuvenating the plant, enhancing its flowering and protecting it from various diseases. Pruning in the summer, which is practiced relatively rarely, has a high decorative potential.

General rules for caring for roses for beginners

Once the bushes have been planted, they should be watered regularly as they react positively to moisture. However, an excess of liquid is also dangerous for plants. Top dressing is carried out once a month, carefully observing the dosage and trying not to exceed it. In order to protect plantations from diseases and pests, both chemical preparations and folk remedies... From time to time, roses are pruned as needed.

Why prune roses

Plants that have not undergone the necessary pruning for a long time quickly lose their decorative properties. The upper part of the plants dies off after several years, and new shoots are formed from the buds growing in the lower part of the bushes. For wild roses, only minimal pruning is important, as a result of which they get rid of old and dried stems, which allows the plants to look neat. The reasons for full pruning of varietal bushes are more varied:

pruning for rejuvenation prolongs the life of plants. If the branches are not removed for three years, they become ugly and spoil appearance plants, and subsequently dry out;
full bloom and buds of sufficient size can only be obtained with sufficient nutrition. To provide it, it is necessary to timely get rid of thinned, weakened, old stems, as well as those that grow inside the crown and thicken it. All these shoots are useless and even harmful from a decorative point of view, and also increase the risk of developing fungal diseases, and at the same time consume a significant part nutrients... All stems, which are thinner than a pencil in diameter, are also subjected to removal, since they will not have time to get stronger normally before winter and will die. It is this pruning that is the answer to frequent question florists on how to cut roses in August;

Why prune roses

normalizing the number of stems will allow you to get large beautiful flowers;
it is necessary to cut out the stems that have suffered from diseases. This will prevent harmful infections from spreading further along the plant;
pruning bushes in spring or autumn stimulates the development and growth of new, more powerful and strong stems;
the culture in question has a high shoot-forming ability and a powerful root system. The combination of the balance between these two systems will result in a beautiful ornamental plant, while in its absence, only young thin or drying old shoots will be present on the flowers.

Do I need to cut roses in summer

On a note! Usually, roses are pruned in the fall or spring. However, it is allowed to carry out this procedure in the summer.

During this period, its main goal is the need to re-bloom roses after a certain period of time. First of all, this applies to large-flowered and standard varieties. It should be noted that there are varieties of roses that can bloom only once per season, and pruning is not able to change this property. This category includes, for example, individual climbing roses, the buds of which are formed on the shoots of the last year. However, there are very few such varieties, and most of the most common varieties (Floribunda, David Austin, etc.) do not apply to them. In order for the plants to bloom again, it is necessary to cut the stems low, which will accelerate the accelerated formation of new shoots. For those roses that bloom once a season, only the flowers are removed.

In some cases, there is a lack of flowering of plants under normal cultivation conditions. The reason for this is the so-called. blind escape. At the top of such stems there are scars of a darkish color or an underdeveloped bud, when, in full-fledged shoots, the top is crowned with this year's growth or a bud. Such a defect in the spring can be triggered by late frosts, and in the summer it can be affected by metabolic disturbances or fungal diseases... To get rid of this disadvantage, the apical bud should be removed by capturing part of the normal stem with the leaf.

Important! In the summer, plants are often affected by fungal diseases. This is usually observed with gross violations of the cultivation technology: an excess of moisture, thickened plantings, an excess of the dosage of nitrogenous fertilizers, etc.

With regular visual examination, it is possible to quickly determine the initial symptoms of ailments and carry out the necessary treatment. At this stage, it is very effective to remove the affected areas of plants with the capture of a small part of healthy plant tissue. If this procedure is not carried out, the disease will spread further and destroy the plant if not applied. chemical agents protection.

Perennial plantings require regular anti-aging pruning. First of all, such a need is manifested in bush roses. Typically this is done in the fall, but this time of year is usually damp. In view of this, open stem sections become available for various infectious diseases. With summer pruning, the cuts dry out relatively quickly. The procedure is carried out shortly after flowering, in dry weather. Thickened stems located in the lower part of the plant and characterized by a dark-colored bark are subject to removal.

Important! Shoots are removed either completely, at ground level, or they are transferred to the nearest lateral strong shoot.

Summer pruning is especially important for grafted plants. In such roses, multiple wilds often begin to grow below the grafting site. This process is especially strong and poorly controlled after severe cold winters. If this new growth is not removed in time, it is able to absorb all the nutrients, as a result of which the varietal rose will die.

Do I need to cut roses in summer

Often there is a situation when varietal plants freeze out in cold winters, and shoots begin to grow from the roots in spring. Before pruning it, you should make sure that it is a real growth from the wild and not from the variety. In cultivated roses, the leaf usually consists of 5 leaves, and in wild roses, of 7. However, individual varieties also have 7 leaves, so you need to pay attention to the color of the foliage. Have wild plants leaves are pale, incomplete and smallish, they lack the glossy sheen characteristic of varietal plants. Reddish bloom on the leaves and young stems on the bush is also not observed in wild birds.

Note! Unlike most roses, ground cover roses do not need heavy pruning. In the first year, they get by with light pruning of the stems, and then only carry out sanitary pruning.

The process of pruning roses

For pruning roses, choose a dry warm day. A pre-disinfected knife or pruner is used as tools, and if there are shoots more than 2 cm in thickness, a garden saw is used. Pruning is carried out immediately after the first flowering, about 8 mm above the eyes - external growth buds. These buds are primordial, located in the axils of the leaves and are clearly visible after the foliage has fallen off. This allows not only to stimulate additional flowering, but also to accelerate the growth of shoots.

On roses, instead of pruning, it is often practiced to remove a flower that has stopped flowering by pinching the peduncle, by analogy with tulips or daffodils. This should not be done, since such a procedure greatly weakens the escape. After pinching, it begins to stretch in length, becomes very brittle. Flowers on such shoots quickly fall off.

Important! The cut on the shoot should be smoothed, there should be no jags. When cutting, make an inclination in relation to the kidney up to half a centimeter.

If pruned incorrectly, the plant often dies. If the cut was made above the kidney, then the stem soon dries up and dies off, and if below the kidney, it risks being damaged and amazed. infectious disease... A cut with an incorrectly made slope often causes the accumulation of moisture in the kidney and its subsequent death. For disinfection, a fresh cut is thickly covered with garden varnish.

Summer pruning of climbing roses usually involves the removal of old shoots to the base, followed by the obligatory incorporation of garden pitch. Among young stems, only the most powerful and tall are left, which will serve as the basis for flowers in the next season. If such shoots are not enough, then the old stems are not completely removed, but to a level of 30-40 cm. Most often, the climbing rose is trimmed in July.

Additional Information! Repeated flowering roses can be pruned even more easily. Flowers are removed at the level of the nearest upper shoot with a full-fledged five-leafed leaf.

Do I need to cut roses during flowering

Pruning of roses in summer during flowering is usually not done. This dramatically lowers decorative view plants. Better to wait for the roses to complete their flowering phase.

Knowing how to properly cut roses from a bush in the summer, and knowing how to apply the knowledge gained in practice, you can easily increase the decorative effect of roses growing on the site. A simple and short-term procedure allows shrubs to form correctly, making them more beautiful and healthy.

For roses to bloom well, they need regular grooming. One of the important agrotechnical measures for growing roses is summer pruning after flowering.

What roses and why do you need to prune after flowering

Summer pruning of roses is to remove faded flowers. This allows you to give the bushes a neat look after flowering and create favorable conditions for their more abundant next flowering in the current or next year.

Pruning roses in summer promotes more abundant flowering

Summer pruning is especially necessary for "noble" varieties of roses (from the groups of hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora), capable of re-flowering. Without pruning, these types of roses quickly wither and after a few years cease to bloom altogether.

Summer pruning is especially necessary for hybrid tea roses.

Basic principles of pruning and nuances for different roses

Basic pruning rules for re-flowering varieties:

faded flowers must be removed immediately after they wither;
the cut should not be located directly under the flower, but somewhat lower, above a well-developed bud, which has a full-fledged complex leaf of 5 or more leaves;
the bud left should "look" to the outside of the bush, and not to the inside;
the cut should be 5-7 millimeters above the kidney.

Cut off faded roses over a well-developed bud

For varieties of single flowering, it is quite enough to simply remove the faded flowers (singly or with brushes, depending on their location). If this is not done at all, they will still bloom, but less abundantly.

Not all roses have the ability to re-bloom; many varieties, with any care, bloom only once in early summer.

When cutting any roses on long stems for bouquets, it is important to ensure that 1-2 well-developed healthy buds remain below the cut site, from which new shoots form the next year. Such cutting weakens bushes very much, especially young ones, so you should not cut more than 30% of all flowering shoots from one plant into a bouquet.

When pruning roses in summer, there is no need to additionally process the produced cuts, they heal well anyway.

Pruning park roses

More unpretentious park roses are less demanding for pruning. Huge old bushes, growing up to two meters in height and the same diameter, form hundreds and thousands of flowers, and trying to cut them all is a waste of work. But for very young plants up to 5 years old, removing faded flowers will be very useful.

Adult bushes of park roses bloom well without summer pruning

Most varieties of park roses bloom only once a season. The exception is some varieties from the group of hybrids of the Rugosa rose, which annually give a second wave of flowering without any pruning.

The re-blooming varieties of Rugosa rose bloom without pruning

Pruning climbing roses

Most varieties of climbing roses are once flowering. They should simply cut off the faded brushes of flowers after they have faded, without shortening the branches. For a few re-flowering varieties of climbing roses, a cut is made over a well-developed bud according to the rules described at the beginning of the article.

In climbing roses, after flowering, only the flower brushes themselves are cut off, without shortening the branches

Regional features of summer pruning roses

In the southern regions, where roses hibernate without shelter, varieties prone to re-flowering (from the groups of hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora, miniature, polyanthus) are cut 2-3 times per season after each flowering wave. V middle lane In Russia and in more northern regions, from the end of August, cutting of flowers from any covering varieties of roses is stopped for better ripening of shoots and increasing the winter hardiness of bushes.

Summer pruning of roses on video

In my garden, from climbing varieties of roses (I have them all of one-time flowering), I simply cut off the faded clusters of flowers. I cut off tea-hybrid and the like according to all the rules. I don't touch adult park bushes in the summer at all, they bloom so well, I cut flowers from very young bushes after wilting.

Pruning roses in a proper and timely manner helps to extend the flowering period in the current season and contributes to the formation of healthy and powerful new shoots, which will surely bloom next year.

In the photo: gorgeous varieties of English roses

Good afternoon, dear rose growers, lovers of sophisticated beauty! Today we will talk about how the summer pruning of roses is done after they bloom and what to do to keep the buds on the branch longer.

The main purpose of summer pruning- in time to eliminate the pulling forces of wilted flowers, so that the plant blooms again. You should not, believe me, leave inflorescences on the bush, which have already begun to fall petals.

If you make the right pruning, then during the season you can get the maximum number of large, juicy rosebuds from the bush. It is important to understand what you want - a lot of little things or optimally large buds.

How to prune faded roses?

Roses that bloom with brushes, and these are floribundas, climbing climbers and shrubs, we cut off completely the brushes, over 2-3 leaves under it.

It is better to cut so that the leaf petiole, over which the brush is trimmed, moves outward, and not into the bush.

Pruning spray and border roses

Illustration from the book of roses

Hybrid tea roses that give birth to 1 flower on the trunk, after flowering in the first half of summer, cut the trunk to 3-4 leaves above the ground. This method stimulates the growth of new basal shoots, which can bloom again during the remaining time. Floribunda roses can also be pruned in the same way.

Rose pruning scheme - what and how much to cut

In the second half of summer, basal shoots are undesirable, since they will not be able to strengthen and mature until autumn. So only flowers should be removed at this time.

If you have climbing roses"Ramblers" that bloom on second-year shoots, then after they bloom, you need to remove the ovary to the first leaf. In addition to the fact that this will facilitate the condition of the bush, this event will contribute to branching, and hence the future more abundant flowering.

It is best to cut the flower 5-10 mm above the bud, which will continue to grow and give flowers.

If your roses are large flowers, then you need to cut off the stem, along with one five-leafed leaf. This important point These are the steps that will encourage the roses to continue flowering.

Summing up

Regular pruning of faded buds will allow you to get significantly better indicators both in volume and in the number of flowers on a rose. If you live in a summer cottage, then it will be easier to control the fading flowers, which means you can fully enjoy the game of life in the embodiment of a rose bush!

Basic rules for pruning roses

For work, take a pruner and high gloves to protect your hands from scratches. The tool must be sharp and clean to avoid contamination of the plant with infection. Correct pruning of roses involves the removal of all diseased, dead, weakened shoots. They are cut to ground level.

Branches growing inside the bush are subject to thinning. You need to prune roses so as to prevent thickening and provide the culture with free air circulation. Such conditions prevent the development of powdery mildew, black spot and rust on the bush. It is considered correct to cut branches that are too thin, so that the plant does not waste its energy on them. Before winter, shoots with a diameter less pencil do not have time to get stronger and freeze. Basic rules of procedure:

roses should be cut on condition of dry weather;
you need to use a sharp pruner, and if the stem is thicker than 2 cm, it is better to use a garden saw;
pruning is done to the white core of the branches;
the procedure is started after the first flowering, while the cut is made about 8 millimeters above the location of the external growth buds ("eyes");
the correct cut is smooth, without chipping and with an inclination towards the bud up to 0.5 cm (if the plant is incorrectly pruned, the plant may die);
the place of trimming must be lubricated with garden varnish.

Pruning roses correctly after flowering will stimulate their growth. If you neglect the rules of procedure, the bush may die. If the cut is made above the kidney, the stem will dry out and die, below - damage to the "eye" and infection may occur. If the cut is not tilted correctly, the kidney will begin to retain moisture, gradually decaying.

It is also worth pruning the wild growth that grows near the rose bushes below the grafting site and at the roots. It is correct to remove such shoots immediately after detection and down to the base, as they weaken the grafted crop, reducing its resistance to disease. You can identify wild growth by small leaves and a rough stem.

If on the branches you see formations similar to nuts - galls, the stems with them must be cut off. In the galls, gall-milling larvae breed, they feed on plant sap, depleting the rose.

Park roses

Despite the fact that this type of flowers is resistant to low temperatures, they still need to be pruned to get new side shoots in the next season. For this purpose, all strong growths after the flowering of the plant are shortened by 5-10 cm. Correctly carry out the procedure like this:

pre-sterilize, sharpen tools;
define weak spots bush (dry, damaged shoots growing below the grafting site, branches rubbing against each other, etc.);
choose the optimal place for cutting (for long, thin shoots, this is a height of 70-90 cm, but not lower than red buds);
remove all diseased branches, leaving exceptionally healthy wood;
make slices at an angle of 45 degrees and 0.5 cm above the healthy kidney;
cut off all faded inflorescences to the first leaf of a healthy bud.

Climbing

Pruning roses after flowering in this case involves the removal of old lashes in the course of the growth of new ones. Correctly form the bushes horizontally, while 1-2 old branches must be completely removed. They are replaced by any new basal shoots. If there are none, then a couple of old stems are cut to a height of 35-40 cm from the base. Other features of the correct pruning of climbing roses:

old branches need to be cut to the place where a strong growth has appeared - it will serve as a guide;
short shoots that should bloom in the future are shortened to 2-3 buds (or up to 15 cm in length);
weakened branches are shortened so that only 2-3 buds remain on them;
the procedure should be carried out in August - September.

Video

For a rose garden to delight with enduring beauty, you need to know how to properly cut roses. Regular pruning of varietal roses should be carried out in accordance with the rules, it has its own differences depending on the season and the variety of flowers.

Pruning roses in summer, spring or autumn is only necessary with a sharp, clean tool. It must be stored in a special dry room, and it is advisable to disinfect it before use. The cut sites must be processed in order to avoid infection and help the wounds to heal; for this, garden var is most often used. Before pruning roses, you should take care of your own hands - it is better to protect them with thick gloves than to heal wounds from thorns later.

Shoots are cut off, capturing healthy tissue, that is, to the white core of the branch, the cut must be made 0.5 cm above the healthy eye at an angle of 45 degrees. If the shoot is cut out completely, then they do it at ground level.

Usually, roses are pruned in summer, autumn and spring. All warm seasons need to do sanitary pruning: broken, diseased, old or just extra shoots and leaves are constantly removed so that they do not take away the strength from the plant. It is imperative that roses are pruned after flowering in order to stimulate a new one and maintain the decorative effect of the bush.

If you regularly prune correctly, you can strengthen the roots, achieve an even distribution of nutrients in all parts of the plant. This event protects the bush from many fungal diseases, helps to endure winter cold more easily, maintain youth longer, provides an opportunity abundant flowering summer.

Rose pruning rates

There are three degrees of pruning of rose bushes - short (strong or low), medium (moderate), high (long or weak). The choice of each of them is determined by the variety, size, age, growth rate, requirements for the decorative effect of the bush.

With short pruning, no more than a third of the bush is left, and each shoot is shortened to 3-4 buds. This is done with new seedlings. Should mature plants be pruned that much? , and Floribunda roses are so pruned in the spring, after harvesting the winter shelter.

Moderate pruning involves shortening the stems to 5–7 healthy buds, or about half of their height. So, medium-sized species are cut off after flowering. This pruning of most roses after the first flowering stimulates subsequent growth and further emergence of the buds.

A high degree of pruning allows you to shorten the shoots by no more than a third, up to 8-15 healthy buds. This is how freshly planted bushes are cut in spring, but they rarely do this with adults in order to prevent thickening or excessive stretching of the branches.

Most often, experienced florists use all three types, carrying out complex pruning of plants, which allows you to rejuvenate the bush, stimulate new shoots, promote abundant bud formation, and maintain a given decorative shape.

Pruning schemes for different varieties

It is very important to know how to properly prune different roses after flowering, how to do summer pruning to encourage them to bloom further. Flowers need to be removed not when they have completely faded and crumbled themselves, but as soon as they are planted, they have lost their decorative effect. It would be wrong to cut off faded roses under the very flower, they are removed, while simultaneously shortening the shoot somewhat. So, Floribunda, climbers, multi-flowered stems are removed above the first leaf (sometimes even above the second), removing the entire flower brush.

In order for large-flowered varieties to continue to bloom, each wilted flower is cut off along with a piece of shoot, which includes at least 1 full-fledged leaf, consisting of 5 stipules. This is done with polyanthous varieties. The main cleaning of polyanthus occurs in the spring: completely thickening, old, diseased shoots are removed, and strong and young ones are shortened by a third. In the fall, only damaged, diseased weak branches are cut out.

The stem flowers are cut in accordance with the variety that is grafted onto the stem, but it is important that the border of the cut segments is above the bud, which is not directed into the bush. Strong shortening is done just before planting.

Hybrid tea is given the shape of a ball, the main formation occurs in spring, the lateral branches are shortened to 2-4 buds, like all shoots of the current year, stimulating the formation of flowers. The inner stems are ruthlessly removed so as not to thicken the bush. And in summer, after the first flowering, the shoots are greatly shortened - up to 3-4 leaves, which encourages the growth of new basal shoots.

Floribunda roses are pruned in a complex in spring. Some of the shoots are cut off, old stems are cut out from the middle of the bush, and annual shoots are shortened by a third so that there are more flowering branches.

Climbing plants are pruned in the spring to give them the desired shape. Lateral shoots are limited by 2–4 buds; in summer, after flowering, they are shortened to the first full-fledged leaf.

It is in the spring that you need to remove old shoots, those that are dry or frozen, thin out the bushes, shorten strong young shoots in order to stimulate their growth and abundant flowering.
Sanitary, and partly formative pruning continues in the summer. Wild growth emerging from the stem or root below the grafting site should be removed as early as possible. Drying, broken, diseased or spoiled