What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Basic methods of laying parquet boards

The parquet board is laid either by the floating floor method, or by the method of rigid fastening of the board to the base.

1. Floating floor method consists in connecting parquet boards to each other without fixing them to the base of the floor. The boards are assembled into a single layer, which lies freely on the substrate - a special compensating material located between the base and the parquet floor. This method is the most common, but like any other method it has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Main pluses:

high speed of the assembly process - laying a 30 m2 board takes no more than one day;

minimization of costs - the cost of the finished floor consists only of the cost of the board, substrate and parquet work;

less requirements for the professionalism of the stacker - the board can be laid even on their own;

the possibility of reusing the board - the glueless connection allows you to partially or completely disassemble the parquet floor and put it again.

The main cons:

insufficient reliability - the mobility of the parquet layer over time can lead to deformation of the tool joint and violation of the integrity of the structure;

when restoring parquet, it will be almost impossible to polish its surface with high quality. The lack of rigid attachment to the base will not allow it to be done evenly over the entire area;

possible discomfort during operation - movements of the floating floor in a vertical plane under short-term loads lead to the sound of steps characteristic of the floating floor and, over time, to the appearance of a squeak.

2. Method of rigid attachment to the base means gluing each parquet board to a specially prepared subfloor. During the drying time of the adhesive composition, the boards are additionally fixed with parquet nails or staples to strengthen the strength of the entire structure. This method also has its advantages and disadvantages.

Main pluses:

high structural reliability - the glued structure of the "parquet pie" will add additional reliability and durability to the floor;

good repairability - the structural integrity of the parquet floor will make it possible to qualitatively repair its surface;

high level comfort - the appearance of a squeak or a loud sound of footsteps when walking on the floor is almost completely excluded.

The main cons:

high requirements for the professionalism of the installer - the installation of a parquet board by non-professionals will significantly increase the risk of a failure;

higher cost - you will need to purchase Additional materials and pay for the services of professional parquet flooring;

time-consuming - layer-by-layer installation technology will require much more time than floating floor assembly;

the thickness of the "parquet cake" - an additional layer of plywood will increase the height of the parquet floor.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding with the main stage of work, a number of important preparatory activities should be carried out.

1. Preparation of the base

Requirements for the substrate for floating boards. Old wooden, tile or stone floors, concrete or self-leveling mixtures, etc. can be used as a base for a parquet board. Textile coverings (carpet, linoleum, carpet) are not suitable as a base material. Regardless of the type of substrate used, it must be absolutely flat, dry, strong and clean. The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of ​​the upcoming installation, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The clearance between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled or sanded according to the specified requirements. The moisture content in a concrete or sand-cement base should not exceed 2%. Use underfloor heating with extreme caution. The heating temperature of the base surface should never exceed +27 ° C. Fluctuations in floor temperature during the day should remain within 5 ° C. It is not recommended to install parquet boards made of wood species that are especially sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature, such as beech, maple, olive or wenge, on heated floors.

Requirements for the base for laying the board using a rigid attachment method. As with a floating floor, the base for rigidly fixing the parquet board must be dry, level, clean and solid. In addition, it should be as suitable as possible for full surface adhesion of parquet and be able to securely hold nails or screws inside. The ideal base will be moisture-resistant plywood, comparable in thickness to parquet board... Plywood, in turn, must also be securely attached to a wood or concrete base using glue and self-tapping screws. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with a 5 mm technological gap between the sheets. Attention! The use of underfloor heating systems under such a base is unacceptable.

2. Laying scheme

Before starting work, you need to decide on the choice laying directions parquet boards in every room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of the daylight falling into the room. In elongated rooms, it is recommended to lay the parquet board in the longitudinal direction (material waste will be 3-5%). In rooms of complex geometric shapes, you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%). If the base is an old wooden floor, the parquet should be laid across the planks of that floor. Rooms with different directions of installation must be separated by expansion joints, which are then closed with overhead thresholds.

3. Preparation of materials and tools for work

The minimum set of tools. To install parquet boards, you will need the following tools: a saw with a thin blade, a hammer, a sharp knife, a scribe square, a drill, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, a wooden or plastic fender (at least 30 cm long with straight edges), wooden wedges, a spatula, etc. mounting foot.

Preparation of boards and related materials for work. Before starting directly to work, prepare the parquet board for laying. It is recommended to keep unopened packages with a parquet board in the room in which installation is to be carried out for at least 3-5 days to better adapt the board to the room's microclimate. Parquet packs should be opened only during the course of work. Before laying the boards, make sure that they are free from defects. If a damaged board is found, it can be replaced with a flawless board by contacting the seller, or used at the beginning or at the end of a row during the installation process. The room in which the installation will be carried out must be well lit and have optimal temperature (18-24 ° C) and air humidity (40-60%). Do not forget to prepare everything for work: the backing and, if necessary, glue, plywood, hardware, rags to remove excess glue.

Important points to consider when floating parquet flooring

Before starting work, be sure to read the installation manual and the operating rules of the parquet board drawn up by its manufacturer. Below are only general recommendations on laying parquet boards, and also listed typical mistakes, which are performed by inexperienced craftsmen during installation work.

1. Brief step-by-step instruction floating laying

First of all, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how many rows of boards are required. If the width of the last row is less than 40 mm, cut the boards of the first row with a saw, reducing their width.

Spread the underlay on the base of the floor, if necessary, fasten the adjacent sheets of material with adhesive tape so that they do not bend during installation.

Start laying from left to right (fig. 1), from the solid wall of the room, placing the first plank with a longitudinal spike against the wall. The distance of 7-10 mm between the boards and the wall must be adjusted with wedges.

Set the next board with the short side to the previous board. Connect the boards to each other with a tenon into a groove (Fig. 2). Continue styling in this manner to the end of the first row.

Using a saw, cut the last plank of the row to size, taking into account the expansion joint, and lay it down.

Start the next row (fig. 5) with a piece cut from the last plank you laid. Neighboring boards should overlap each other by at least 30-50 cm (Fig. 3). For a tight connection, it is necessary to lightly knock adjacent boards to each other with a hammer and a hammer (fig. 8). Attention! Do not use board trimmings as headers. Continue assembling the parquet board until you reach the last row.

The last row. Measure the width of the last row at several points (taking into account the expansion joint), mark the trim line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Lay the planks down and place them firmly in place, for example using the mounting foot. Place a protective pad between the wall and the mounting foot to avoid damaging the wall. Install the spacer wedges.

Even after studying the instructions for laying a parquet board, many make typical mistakes and miscalculations, namely:

laying a parquet board on a poorly prepared base;

spend installation work in a room with inadequate temperature and humidity conditions;

do not suit the technological seam at the border of the board with other floor coverings and when approaching vertical obstacles (walls, columns, built-in furniture);

use in the installation of trim boards smaller than permissible sizes;

leave the distance between the end joints of the boards in adjacent rows less than 30 cm;

loosely connect the docking unit (thorn-groove) of the board.

Important points to consider when laying a parquet board by rigid attachment to the base

1. Brief step-by-step installation instructions with gluing to the base

Once again, check the readiness and quality of the base, materials and tools for laying the board in this way.

Carry out the assembly of the parquet boards in the same order as for the floating assembly of the boards, first applying a layer of glue to the base or back of the board.

Press each glued board firmly to the base using nails or a heavy weight. Do not remove the load until the glue is completely dry.

Avoid spilling adhesives on oiled or varnished surfaces. Remove excess glue protruding onto the surface immediately with a damp cloth, preventing them from drying out.

Do not subject the floor to heavy loads during the first few hours after installation until the adhesive is completely dry.

2. The main mistakes during installation work

The method of rigid attachment to the base requires much more experience in carrying out parquet work. But even professional parquet flooring specialists sometimes make mistakes:

do not clean the base from dust and dirt, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of gluing;

use low-quality, improperly prepared or inappropriate glue in terms of properties;

do not control the consumption of glue;

not tightly press the boards to the base, leaving "air pockets" between them;

do not remove the remnants of glue from the surface of the board in time.

Summary

At the beginning of our article, we asked ourselves the question: what you need to know and be able to do to get a beautiful, reliable and durable floor from a parquet board. It's time to take stock.

Laying a parquet board is a laborious and demanding process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Observance of the following rules will help to achieve success in this difficult business.

Choose a suitable technology for laying parquet boards.

Purchase the quality materials you need for styling.

Prepare the base correctly.

Determine the direction of laying.

Start laying the parquet board only after finishing all wet work.

Entrust the execution of all of the above points to professionals.

Floors are the most significant home furnishings. Parquet floors give the interior a natural naturalness and harmonious beauty of wood. Therefore, it is important that the color of the floors is in harmony with the prevailing color scheme in the room. One of the solutions is the selection of parquet shades that match the colors of the furniture, which looks very harmonious. Also, there is an option, contrasting options for the floor and furniture. In a word, the choice of coating color has ample opportunities for creative searches.

So, in this article, we will try to clarify what reasons should be followed when choosing natural flooring, such as parquet board.

The three-layer construction is a reliable and technological product, which is much less susceptible to wood "movement". This means that in case of temperature and humidity changes in the room, the construction of the parquet board allows it to withstand adverse conditions and strictly "keep" the geometry. In other words, your floor will not snap into place, or will not start to "ship". It's all about the three-layer construction of the parquet board.

bottom layer, as a rule, made of spruce plywood (in some cases, spruce dies are used).

Middle layer represents a set of spruce or pine dies, the direction of the wood fibers of which is perpendicular to the useful layer, i.e. front, which is made of various types of wood and has various versions. Thus, the reliability of the parquet board is due to the double weaving of wood fibers in the construction of the parquet board.

Upper layer- this is directly a layer of noble wood.

Covering parquet boards

The parquet board is coated with varnish or oil, at the factory, using special equipment. On the surface of the front layer of the board, putty is applied, a primer layer and then 6-7 layers of varnish (depending on the manufacturer) with ultraviolet hardening. Thus, the surface of the board is reliably protected from abrasion during operation, which gives advantages over parquet, which is covered at home, in which such a quality of coating cannot be achieved.

But it must be borne in mind that the use of chairs on wheels, point stress on the covering of the parquet board, is fraught with the formation of scratches, cracks, depressions, etc. In order to avoid such problems and extend the life of the factory coating, we strongly recommend: use rugs for chairs on wheels, felt pads on furniture legs (especially chairs and tables, since these pieces of furniture move more often), limit point stress on the coating (do not walk on lacquered heels), avoid the ingress of sand and moisture (we recommend styling rugs in the hallways).

The same precautions apply to oiled positions of the parquet board. However, it must be borne in mind that the wood pores of the oiled surface are less protected from moisture, wear and contamination. Therefore, when wet cleaning oiled boards, we recommend using special polish liquids (oil-wax), which clean the surface and fill the cracks with a wax composition, as well as once a year to carry out general cleaning using special machines.

Laying methods

Having a three-layer construction, the parquet board can be installed in several ways. The most common, simple and cheapest is floating way of laying... This is a method in which a parquet board is placed on a dry, hard, level and clean substrate. Boards are assembled together, fastened with a lock joint, as well as laminate (Karelia, Timberwise).

The advantage of this method is:

• simple and quick way laying the floor,
• strength and durability during operation,
• immediate readiness for use after installation,
• the possibility of dismantling with subsequent use.

But some people don't like the "hollow" feeling in the floating installation method, when the floor seems to "walk". It is also possible to lay a parquet board by gluing it to the base ( glue method ) - plywood (8-12 mm thick) is placed on a dry, hard, even and clean base, which is primed. The parquet board is adhered to the glue that is applied to the plywood. It takes several days for the glue to "set".

The advantage of this method is that the board is firmly glued to the base and gives the feeling of a solid floor structure.

Flaw such laying is that the parquet board cannot be reused during dismantling.

Sort selection

The next point in choosing a parquet board is sorting the wood of the front layer. This means the number of knots on the board, sapwood, the presence / absence of a variegated wood pattern. Manufacturers offer, as a rule, at least three options for sorting European wood species. This allows you to more accurately display the design solution in the interior drawing and embody your ideas. In this case, there are no specific recommendations, except that follow the advice of the designer and your own preferences. The selection or sorting of the parquet does not affect the performance properties!

Manufacturer's choice

The most difficult moment when buying is. It is necessary to find a product that would combine both good value and excellent quality. Since the parquet board market is wide enough and there are many brands, you can get confused. Of course, in this case it is necessary to determine what price range products you can afford. We offer products from various factories and price levels.

Polarwood board jointly produced by Russia and Finland is a high-quality a budget option, with great choice options for oak parquet boards.

The manufacturer of parquet boards is one of the most technologically advanced manufactures in Europe. Affordable price, high quality and wide choose products - distinguishes this manufacturer from competitors.

Magnum - a large selection of parquet boards in different designs... Affordable price coupled with high quality... Available in a warehouse in Minsk.

Parquet board - elite quality in a piece design. This is a 1-strip parquet board made of oak, ash in different options: colors (natural, thermo, bleached), surfaces (smooth, structured, aged) and sorting (select, classic).

So, in this article, we tried to clarify the main issues in choosing a parquet board. Of course, these products are technologically advanced, i.e. practically not subject to the main problems of wooden floors (problems of changing geometry), has a wide choice of execution of various types of wood (which expands the possibilities of interior solutions) and, most importantly, fully pays for itself (since it does not require special preparation during installation, it is already ready for installation, does not require varnishing ).

We wish you good luck with your choice!

One of the main advantages of a parquet board is that it does not need additional processing after installation. Grinding, sanding, varnishing and other operations are carried out in the factory, so all that remains to be done by the consumer after the purchase is to properly lay the boards on the subfloor. Thanks to the convenient castle system, the installation technology is greatly simplified, but in order to create a high-quality and durable flooring, you need to study all the subtleties of this process.

Parquet board differs from ordinary wood in its three-layer structure:

• upper layer- valuable wood with a pronounced texture. The thickness varies between 1-6 mm, but most often it is 3.5-4 mm. To increase the decorative properties, the material undergoes heat treatment, bleaching and other procedures, and to protect against negative effects - varnishing or impregnation with oil-wax compositions;
• intermediate layer- pine or spruce slats, laid perpendicular to the face layer. At the ends of the slats, tongue-and-groove or locking joints are cut, depending on the modification of the parquet board. The thickness of this layer is 8-9 mm;
• bottom layer- solid coniferous veneer, up to 2 mm thick. The direction of the fibers is perpendicular to the previous layer.

This arrangement of layers provides the material with high flexural and compressive strength, and increases resistance to changes in humidity and temperature conditions. Almost no chips form on the parquet board, and the protective coating retains its attractive appearance for years. The standard board has the following parameters:

• width 120-200 mm;
• length 1100-2500 mm;
• thickness 10-22 mm.

There are several types of parquet boards, due to the number of dies in the top layer and the presence of chamfers on the sides.

Table. Types of parquet boards

Prices for Tarkett parquet board

Parquet board Tarkett

Pros and cons of the material

Despite the abundance of inexpensive and reliable floor coverings, the demand for parquet boards remains consistently high. This popularity is due to the presence of significant advantages of the material:

• the coating is durable and has a long service life, is resistant to wear, and can be restored;
• no need for varnishing, sanding or painting after installation is completed;
• thanks to the locking system, the coating, if necessary, can be dismantled and re-laid, without deterioration in operational properties;
• installation does not require special equipment and does not take much time;
• parquet flooring looks impressive and is suitable for different interior styles.

Such coverage also has disadvantages, although there are not many of them:

• lack of the possibility of curly styling;
• relatively high price;
• the need for careful preparation of the rough base.

Ways of laying parquet boards

The coating can be laid in three ways - adhesive, floating and using fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws).

Glue method

Laying the coating on glue requires a perfectly flat and dry substrate. If on rough floor there are notches or bumps, this will lead to uneven erasure of the finish layer, the appearance of cracks, deformations. It is also more difficult to restore such a floor, since more material is removed in the protruding areas during scraping than is necessary, in the recesses it is not removed at all. And the presence of moisture under the floor contributes to partial flaking of the coating, the appearance of fungus, swelling and swelling. To eliminate such risks, the parquet board is not glued to the screed itself, but to the plywood or chipboard substrate. There must be a waterproofing under the substrate; in addition, you can lay a sound-insulating material - a cork, foamed polyethylene and others.

This method is used less and less because it has more disadvantages than advantages. Firstly, costs increase: in addition to parquet boards and waterproofing, it is necessary to buy material for the substrate, fasteners and special parquet glue, the cost of which is quite high. Secondly, it takes more time for installation, because you need to cut and adjust the plywood, fix it correctly, apply glue. Do not walk on the floor until the glue is completely dry. In addition, it will be more difficult to replace accidentally damaged areas, and the dismantled floor is unsuitable for reuse.

Floating way

Laying of the covering is carried out without fixing the parquet board to the rough base. The lamellas are attached to each other using a groove-comb system or a special lock connection. A small gap must be left along the perimeter of the room, which prevents the floor from deforming during thermal expansion. There is a layer of waterproofing between the coating and the base; sound-absorbing materials can also be installed.

This method is considered the most convenient and fastest, therefore it is used by most craftsmen, and is also ideal for those who do not yet have construction experience. Subject to the installation technology, the coating perfectly tolerates changes in humidity and temperature regime, which means that the risk of deformations is reduced to zero. If individual lamellas are damaged, it will not be difficult to replace them, the main thing is to choose the right boards by tone and pattern. Complete dismantling of the coating also does not require much effort, in addition, the material can be reused.

Laying with fasteners

Fixing the parquet board with nails or self-tapping screws can be used in the case of laying the covering on logs or a solid wooden base, and not on a screed. For this, lamellas with a thickness of at least 20 mm are suitable, since thin boards can be easily damaged. Lags are stacked in increments of no more than 60 cm and strictly in the same plane, since even small differences in height cause squeaks when walking. The area under the flooring must be well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of condensation and moisture.

When laying, the lamellas are positioned so that their ends dock only on the logs. Nails are driven into the grooves at an angle, and the hats are deepened with a doboin so that the fasteners do not interfere with the tight abutment of adjacent boards. Such fasteners provide the necessary strength of the connection, but complicate the subsequent replacement of elements during repair. If it becomes necessary to completely dismantle the coating, it will not be possible to reuse the coating due to damaged edges.

For fastening individual parquet planks, nails are used, the length of which is 40 mm, and the thickness is 1.6 - 1.8 mm.

Adhesive flooring technology

Preparatory stage

Start by assessing the condition of the subfloor. Its surface must be flat, dry, and free of any defects. In order not to miss minor damage, the base must first be cleaned of debris and dust. Be sure to check the screed with a level and, if necessary, level the floor with a leveling compound. If a new screed is poured, it is impossible to start laying until the base is completely dry.

During the installation process you will need:

• concrete primer;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• parquet board;
• tape measure and pencil;
• circular saw or jigsaw;
• drill;
• dowel-nails;
• one-component parquet adhesive;
• notched trowel;
• hammer.

Materials should be taken with a small margin, so calculate the required amount in advance by taking measurements of the floor area. As a rule, trimming takes from 5 to 10% of the total amount of flooring, depending on the experience of the master and the installation options.

Advice. The parquet board must be brought into the installation room in advance and left for at least a day. In this case, the temperature in the room should be in the range of 18-25 degrees, and the humidity should not exceed 60%.

Laying the cover

Step 1. The screed cleaned from dust is treated with a primer. If the composition is absorbed quickly, it is recommended to apply the primer in two layers, observing the time specified in the instructions for interlayer drying.

Step 2. Plywood is laid out on a dry floor and where the cuts are marked. The backing sheets should be staggered with 3-5 mm gaps between them to compensate for thermal expansion. A gap of 10-15 mm is left around the perimeter of the room.

Step 3. With the help of a circular saw, plywood is cut out, the cuts are cleaned from shavings and dust. Dilute the glue and apply it to the concrete base, where the first sheet will be located. The glue is quite thick, so it needs to be spread over the surface with a spatula. Plywood is laid, leveled, gently pressed with hands. All other sheets are glued in the same way.

Step 4. For a more reliable fixing, plywood must be fastened to the base with dowel-nails. To do this, holes are drilled in each sheet in the corners and in the middle of the sides, stepping back 30-40 mm from the edge. Dowels are inserted into the holes and the fasteners are hammered with a hammer.

Step 5. After fixing the substrate, the surface is cleaned of dust and proceeds to the marking of the floor covering. Lay the first row from the wall, fastening the boards without glue with lock connections... On the last lamella in a row, mark the cutting line and cut off the excess. Having completely laid the first row, mark its border with a pencil on the substrate and remove the boards.

Step 6. Take a new batch of glue and apply it with a spatula to the designated area. Distribute in an even layer over the entire surface, without going beyond the boundaries of the marking. Lay the boards of the first row, carefully adjusting them from the ends and leaving a gap between the wall and the coating of at least 10 mm.

Step 7. The second row should be fastened with an offset of the end seams by half the length of the lamella. Having cut the material properly, carefully cover the substrate with glue and proceed with installation. To do this, take the board with both hands along the edges, set it at an angle to the board of the first row, putting the comb into the groove along the entire length, then lower it down and lightly tap it so that the lamella is in place. Everyone else is stacked the same way.

Step 8. When laying the coating near the threshold, around the ledges and in niches, cutouts of the appropriate shape are made in the boards, necessarily leaving a technological gap around the perimeter. It is recommended to insert 10 mm thick wooden or plastic wedges between the wall and the parquet board so that the gap is the same along the entire length.

Advice. In the absence of experience in such work, it is necessary to control the time of fitting the boards so that the adhesive layer does not have time to dry. If the room is long, it is better to apply the glue for the first time up to half a row.

Step 9. The last row often needs to be trimmed to the width. Here, in the same way, the board is applied to the surface, the cut line is marked with a pencil, the excess is removed. After completing the work, they leave the room for 8-10 hours so that the glue hardens and reliably fixes the floor covering.

After the specified time has elapsed, take out the spacer wedges and close the gaps with plinths. It is not difficult to care for such a floor, the main thing is to avoid excessive moisture. When wet cleaning, the rag must be wrung out well so that puddles do not collect on the floor. Accidentally spilled liquids should be wiped up immediately, preventing moisture from penetrating into the seams between the boards.

Floating laying technology

A floating floor also requires a high-quality foundation, so the screed is prepared in the way described above. Next, they prepare everything you need for work:

• parquet board;
• waterproofing film;
• Scotch;
• soundproofing underlay;
• spacer wedges;
• tape measure and pencil;
• jigsaw;
• clamps for skirting boards;
• drill and dowels with self-tapping screws.

Step 1. The prepared base is lined with a film for waterproofing, capturing the walls to a height of 10 cm. The strips of film are laid with an overlap of 30 cm wide and the edge is glued with tape.

Step 2. The next layer is an insulating backing made of pressed cork or foamed polyethylene. The substrate is laid close to the walls, adjacent strips - butt-to-toe.

Step 3. Proceed with the installation of the coating. The first board is laid in the corner along the wall, with an indent of 10-15 mm from the side and from the end. For convenience, wedges of the appropriate thickness are inserted between the board and the walls.

Advice. The boards of the first row must be laid with a ridge against the wall, but since in this case the technological gap will be wider than required, the ridges are cut off beforehand.

Step 4. The second board is placed side by side, leveled, its end is put into the lock of the first one and tightly fitted. The last lamella in the row is first tried on, marked with a pencil the desired length and cut off the excess with a saw, and then fastened like everyone else.

Step 5. In the second row, the boards are shifted by at least a third of the length. Laying is done in the same way, only now each board needs to be joined both in length and from the end.

Step 6. Having reached the opening, mark the thickness of the coating on the door frame and carefully cut out the groove for the parquet board with a hacksaw. The resulting dust and shavings are removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Step 7. Install the nut. An aluminum strip is applied to the floor, the fixing points are marked through the fastening holes. After drilling the holes, clean them of dust, insert the dowels and screw the rail with self-tapping screws.

Step 8. When laying the board extreme from the threshold, the connection is additionally strengthened with glue. To do this, carefully remove the top layer of wood along the ridge with a sharp knife, remove the shavings and apply glue in a thin continuous strip. The board is pushed under door frame, align from the end and along the side line, snap the locks. For a tighter docking, hammer on the other side of the lamella with a hammer.

Step 9. The cover is cut out and laid opposite the threshold, after which the upper bar of the metal sill is screwed on. The plank should tightly cover the ends of the boards and lie strictly horizontally.

Step 10. From the threshold, the rows are laid in the way described above, with a mandatory gap around the perimeter of the room. If the last row does not fit in width, the boards are cut with a saw from the side of the groove.

Step 11. Having laid the covering, on the walls, on top of the film, mark the places for fastening the cleats for the skirting boards in increments of 40-50 cm. The indents from the corners should not be more than 20 cm. Drill holes in the wall through the film, insert the dowels and screw the cleats with self-tapping screws.

Step 12. Install the skirting boards, then take a sharp assembly knife and very carefully cut off the protruding edge of the film so as not to leave scratches on the skirting board and on the wall.

If the technology is followed, the coating turns out to be strong and durable, does not swell, does not creak underfoot. If you need to replace individual fragments, it will be enough to pry them off and lift them to release the lock.

Video - Errors when laying parquet boards

Laying boards on plywood

Plywood is the best base for laying parquet boards. To improve the stability of the flooring, plywood must be laid in a certain way, namely: first, the plywood must be divided into small squares (or rectangles) with sides of about 50-80 cm, and then laid so that the joints between the plywood and the joints that will be between the boards , were at an angle of 45º in relation to each other. That is, for example, if the board is planned to be laid parallel to the walls of the room, then the plywood should be laid diagonally (at an angle of 45º). Plywood is attached to the base (or to the logs) with self-tapping screws. For 1 sheet of plywood with a side of ≈ 60-70 cm. 9 self-tapping screws are required. And yet, between the plywood sheets, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5-10 mm. This is necessary so that when the geometry of the plywood changes (natural expansion with increasing humidity), the sheets do not rub against each other and do not cause a squeak. A special material is laid between the plywood and the parquet board - a backing.

Laying parquet on a concrete base (screed)

It is also permissible to lay parquet on a screed. In this case, it is necessary that the screed is strong, dry, even and clean. It is desirable that the compressive strength of the screed is at least 10 MPa. A special device is used to measure the strength of the screed. To check the evenness of the base, a two-meter perfectly level rule with a level is used. For laying parquet boards, it is desirable that the height difference over the plane does not exceed 2 mm. by 2 running meters. A screed can be considered dry if its moisture content does not exceed 2%. If this figure is higher, then either you need to wait until the screed dries up, or use a special vapor barrier primer, for example, Berger Primer P. When laying boards on a screed, it is better to use a Parkolag underlay, as it has good waterproofing properties and will prevent moisture from the screed to penetrate into the parquet. If the screed is dry, you can use cork or synthetic underlays (for example Tuplex), which do not have such good waterproofing, when laying parquet.

Laying parquet boards on old parquet, ceramic tiles, linoleum, etc.

The big advantage of parquet boards (or laminate) is the ability to lay them on almost any flat surface. The installation of a three-layer board, like many other floor coverings with a lock joint, occurs in a "floating" way. This method does not require gluing the parquet to the base, the parquet is easily assembled and dismantled. Requirements for the base, whether old parquet, ceramic tile, or another old floor covering, does not differ from those that we discussed above: the base must be flat and clean (it must be well vacuumed before laying). It goes without saying that it must also be dry and durable. It is also important to find a suitable substrate as all substrates have different characteristics. The question of choosing a substrate for parquet is considered by us in a separate article.