What can you cook from squid: quick and tasty

The flat-bottomed waters of our rivers

Once upon a time, the shores of lakes and ponds were completely strewn wooden boats of all kinds of sizes and designs. There were rubber, of course, but there weren't many of them and they served as patched patched for many years. It was even less common to find duralumin products produced in small batches at that time.

The flat-bottomed waters of our rivers

Those times have sunk into oblivion, and with them the good old traditions of building simple boats by the hunters and fishermen themselves. Now inflatable boats have firmly taken their place. They turned out to be more mobile, lightweight and comfortable.

True, in some places, far from large settlements, you can still see hand-made ones. So I have been using it for many years.

The boat is equipped with one unsecured oar, with a sharp wedge-shaped nose, strong wooden sides, and is excellent for navigating both narrow rivers and dense thickets of reeds, which allows it to be successfully used for fishing and hunting.

Such boats were generally built according to a single principle, but in different regions they had a number of features. For example, some had a wooden bottom, others a rubber bottom, and still others a tin bottom.

If for some reason you need just such, then you can make it yourself at home. There is nothing difficult in making it, however, the first time it may not turn out exactly what you would like.

Material preparation

So, let's begin. Before starting construction, you need to take care of its most important parts in advance - the sides. For this, long, wide, not thick, preferably knotless pine or spruce boards are selected. They should lie for at least one year in a dry place, on a flat surface with a little pressure from above in order to avoid their curvature.

Once again we inspect the prepared boards for defects - cracks, knots falling out, etc. Then we measure the required length (here, as well as further, the specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, since all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and we cut each of them at an angle of 45g - this will be the bow.

Next, they need to be stitched, and chamfered from the sawn-off ends so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
These areas, and later all the others that will be inaccessible for painting after the assembly of the structure, are impregnated with a protective layer of antiseptic.

After that, we start making the base of the nose - a triangular bar. Its length should be approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. We also plan the block and cover it with a protective layer.

Do not forget to leave a stock above and below, then after assembly all excess will be cut down.

Initial assembly stage

Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to the assembly. We start from the bow, both sides and the triangular bar are firmly connected with screws or nails.

Cut the protruding parts from above and below flush with the sides.

It should be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The angle of the brace should also not be made too large.

Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides, here you need a couple of assistants or a rope. Bending to the desired distance, we apply the “backdrop” and determine where and how much to chamfer so that the sides adjoin it without gaps.

So, gradually removing it, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.

Having achieved it, we nail the sides and cut off the protruding parts from the bottom, and from above, as you want. I made it in the form of a triangle.

Then we proceed with the installation of the permanent struts and seats. Their number and location is at your discretion. When fixing them (yes, in general, and in other places), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid the appearance of cracks.

We finish the very important initial stage by removing the chamfer from the lower part of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating on them.

Continuation of construction, see the next part -.

All photos from the article

A do-it-yourself plywood motor boat is interesting to many of our compatriots for two reasons - creative nature and lower cost. Despite the seeming complexity of the project, it can be understood and implemented.

But for this, such a factor as your desire to do this is extremely necessary. In addition, what you did yourself will be more dear to you morally, so stay with us and we will show you the video in this article.

We make a small boat

Note. We will not consider a specific design, for example, do-it-yourself drawings of a folding boat made of plywood.
Our goal is to tell you about general principles and methods of making small craft.

Required materials and tools

Plywood selection:

to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you, of course, will need this very plywood, only of different thicknesses;
for the hull you need a sheet thickness of 5 mm, but for the keel and frame you will already need 10-15 mm thick(select the length of the panel depending on the length of the body);
as you understand, high-quality products are needed here, therefore, you will have to choose either elite E or 1st grade for work- the price, of course, will be higher, but the quality will rise along with it;
also important, on which the water resistance and strength of plywood depends - the most the best brands here you can call FSF or FSF-TV (flammable), FB and BS (aviation - also used in shipbuilding).

Solid wood:

for decorating the sides, mounting seats and arranging struts inside the boat hull, you will need solid wood;
best suited for this purpose edged board from pine - it is lighter than larch, but due to the resin content, it tolerates wet well.

Suture material:

to tighten the body and connect other parts into a one-piece structure, suture material is needed here;
for this, you can use a thin knitting steel or copper wire, thick nylon line or plastic clamps.

Tightness:

in order for the boat not to leak, all the seams must be sealed with water-repellent glue - at the moment there are a lot of them on sale;
as practice shows, compositions based on polymer resins are best suited for this purpose;
fiberglass is also used to seal the seams - a tape from it is planted on glue along the joint;
you can also use fiberglass for this purpose, pasting the sides and bottom with it;
to protect against swelling, water-repellent varnishes and adhesives are used, soaking the body and lintels with them - for this, you can, for example, use bakelite varnish or glue;
besides impregnation, you will also need polymer paint, which will complement the moisture resistance and decorate your boat.

Tools:

to make a boat with your own hands from plywood, of course, you will need tools and, first of all, this is a circular saw and / or an electric jigsaw (a hacksaw is also useful);
a set of hand-held carpentry tools in the form of a hammer, chisels, pliers, and the like;
grinding disc or belt machine;
tape or steel clamps;
paint brushes for applying impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Choosing a drawing

Important!
Before you start assembling, find the drawings that are suitable for your case - how to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, it can be a flat-bottomed fishing boat that you will use on weekends or a kayak for hiking trips on vacation.
But if you are already experienced in "shipbuilding", then you can try to draw such a project yourself, but here it is very important to calculate the carrying capacity so that the craft does not capsize during operation.

A flat-bottomed boat, or, as it is often abbreviated as "flat-bottomed", is a type of flat-bottomed boat that has been used for hundreds of years to transport people and goods along shallow rivers. Modern flat-bottomed boats are mainly used for recreational activities on the water, although in some countries they are still used for the transport of goods. Among the many places on earth, the English university cities of Cambridge and Oxford are most famous for their flat-bottomed boats, where since the beginning of the 19th century, flat-boat riding has been a popular form of water recreation among students.

The appearance of flat-bottomed boats is quite unique and very different from other small-tonnage boats. Unlike other floats, punt boats do not have a keel, the sturdy central base that most boats use as a base. On the contrary, the bottom of the boat is absolutely flat, and the connecting support part is several lamellas sequentially located at its base. The sides of the punt are relatively low, and the stern on both sides is equally wide, square in shape, which allows the boat to sail in any direction without turning.

Traditionally, flat-bottomed boats are operated with a long pole. The manager usually stands at the front stern of the boat, rests the pole against the bottom and pushes off from it. As the boat moves, the steward moves from the front stern to the rear while continuing to exert force on the pole. Then, he returns to the fore aft and the cycle repeats. When sailing on modern, lightweight punt boats, pushing off the bottom, the operator does not need to move along the entire length of the boat, and he can stay in one place. While it may seem like a relatively easy task to operate a flat-bottomed boat from the outside, it is actually quite difficult and time-consuming work. V different countries different ways of controlling the punt are used.

Flat-bottomed boats have a very shallow draft, which makes them an ideal means of transportation in shallow waters, coastal waters, and in areas heavily overgrown with emerging plants. And if you learn the correct control technique, the punt is very good and easy to maneuver. Because the ends of a flat-bottomed boat are symmetrical, it is much easier to steer in tight spaces than other types of boats. Flat boats used for the carriage of goods, as a rule, have specially designated areas for stowing and storing cargo.

By the way, the name of the boat comes from the Latin word “ponto”, which means “flat-bottomed boat”. The same word is the root in the word pontoon. Today, punt boats are often used in sports competitions, as well as by outdoor enthusiasts and aquatic species sports. If you have a desire to swim on a flat-bottomed boat on your own, then the constantly increasing number of punt rental points in settlements with shallow rivers and a calm current will gladly provide you with such an opportunity. Also, many rental offices offer training in the basics of flat-bottomed boat management.

Homemade plywood boat (master class, photo, step by step)

So he got around to the realization of an old dream, he began to build a boat. For the first time I chose an easy project, so to speak, for training. I went to the production of similar boats in Cherepovets and there I spied on something and bought the missing materials, for which I would like to thank the owner of the shipyard.

This is how the boat should look like:

Today I cut the plywood sheets and proceeded to the most important and difficult process in my opinion - it is the burr and gluing of the plywood sheets. Because the length of the boat exceeds the length of standard plywood sheets, then they have to be spliced, for this there are many ways, but I chose the most technically difficult, but also more aesthetic option of gluing "mustache".

We mark up.

We process plywood sheets first with a planer, and then with a grinder.

This is how it looks during processing.

This is how the sheets should fit and stick together.

After fitting the parts, I glued them together and placed them under the press.

That's all for now preparatory work along the boat, after the sheets are glued together, I will start marking and cutting out the parts.

At first, I worked on the "mustache" connection on scraps of plywood and it was scary to look at it, but the experience came when working on the "clean" version :) I hope to continue to master everything.

That's about the boat.

Basic data:

Length overall ................ 2.64 m
Breadth overall ............. 1.28 m
Board height .......................... 0,38 m
Body weight ........................ 30 kg
Loading capacity .................. 180 kg
Crew ................................... 2 people.
Allowable power p / motor ... 2.5 hp

Today was a day of fruitful work and great progress :)

He pulled out the sheets from under the press and removed the strips between which they were clamped. The joint turned out to be smooth and very strong (later they tried to break the cuttings from the bottom, they burst not at the joint of the sheets). Thus, we obtained blanks of the required length for the manufacture of the boat.

I start the marking with filling the center line, then all sizes will go from it.

Here I drew the bottom of the boat, it seemed to work out beautifully:

I start to cut. It is advisable to take a jigsaw with high revolutions, use the saws for a curly cut of plywood so as not to tear the edges of the sheets.

We carry out strictly according to the markup :)

Half of the bottom is ready.

But the bottom is entirely :)

We mark one side, then put two blanks on top of each other and fasten with clamps, after which we cut out both sides at once.

I mark and cut out the transom.

At the joints of the plywood sheets, we remove the chamfer with a grinder and proceed to sewing the boat with copper wire clips.

We are working from stern to bow.

In such a case, you cannot do without an assistant.

I also try hard to sew everything beautifully :)

These are the seams.

Now the boat is ready :)

Fitting for yourself :)

And upside down.

Today I really moved to the final stage of project completion :)
The first step was to stretch all the braces harder. I checked the geometry of the boat. Then he planted the staples at the inner joints of the boards with a chisel. After all this, I cut out temporary spacers and fixed them in the places where the frames were installed.

While doing these things in the new room, I constantly felt the eyes on me. By the way, here is the view of the straightened boat from the stern.

For a more even formation of the seams, I decided to fill the lines with masking tape, it seemed to work out beautifully.

I decided to glue it in the evening, but for now I drew out the frame templates and started assembling them.

Here are the finished frames, assembled with epoxy glue and self-tapping screws.

Finally, I started gluing the internal seams, I didn't think it was such a painstaking job :) For the first time, everything seemed to work out great. The resin has normally impregnated the fiberglass, there are no bubbles anywhere.

This is how the seam turns out, even and transparent. The photo shows that the tree structure is visible through three layers of glass tape, so everything is normal.

Here's what was done last time: the frames were fitted and the fenders were screwed on.

Today I installed the frames in place and fixed them with glue and self-tapping screws, cut out the reinforcing pads on the transom.

After that, he turned the boat over, removed all the paper clips from the wire and proceeded to round off the seam joints.

And when everything was prepared, I proceeded to pasting the outer seams.

The seams turned out to be smooth and well saturated, even I like it myself.

Seams on the transom.

Today I finished the work on the formation of the hull of the boat, next time I will install benches and start preparing for painting.

The sides are fastened not only with glue, but also reinforced with three layers of glass tape on each side, this is already fiberglass. Self-tapping screws from frames can be turned out altogether, they will no longer be needed there after gluing. By the way, some do it. Such a boat can be assembled without a single screw in the hull at all.

Today I went to make the boat only in the evening, tk. waited for the glue to set well. I checked the outer seams, I really liked how it was done, it turned out to be strong fiberglass. After that I decided to make planks for the benches. I also cut out and fitted the stem to the bow of the boat.

Here are the slats of the front bench attached.

Here is the middle bench.

I also cut out the slats for the back bench, but it is still too early to install them.

Apparently stretching the pleasure from the process, or maybe out of a desire to do everything efficiently, I make the boat slowly and little by little :)
Today I bought glue, self-tapping screws and high-quality sawn timber without knots. All this was for the installation of the keel and outer stringers. These necessary elements will give greater strength to the bottom, as well as protect the boat during mooring to the shore, protect the paintwork from scratches.

I cut out the slats, sanded them and installed them in place with glue and self-tapping screws.

I also installed a stem and a bow eyebolt today for tying a rope or anchor rope.

For today work had to be stopped, tk. the whole thing must be firmly seized, for this I applied additional weights.

By the way, the benches have already been cut out, but they will be installed after painting the boat from the inside.

A boat is an indispensable item if you want to go fishing or just spend time with friends or family on the river. This is a great tool for a walk or even a whole water adventure that you can make with your own hands.

If you are interested in the technology according to which a do-it-yourself punt boat is made of plywood, the drawings presented in this article and the recommendations will come in handy in your work.

Making the simplest vessel from plywood is the most budget way get a boat. To do this, you just need to stock up on everything you need, including tools and drawings, as well as show a little patience and diligence. Otherwise, making such a product will not be difficult for you, the main thing is to strictly follow the prepared drawing.

What you need to work

The material on the basis of which the structure is created is, of course, plywood. It consists of veneered layers glued with phenolic glue, which are pressed in production. There are several types of it, but not every type of plywood is suitable for making a boat with your own hands.

Note! The highest quality and waterproof plywood is marked with FSF. It is usually made of birch veneer. When using it, you will be able to achieve reliability and quality from your future product. As a result, you will spend significantly less effort sanding and finishing your boat.

If for some reason you are unable to get high-quality plywood brand When buying not too high-quality products, pay special attention to the execution of the end parts on the sheets. The absence of through cracks, knots, holes and defects is a sign of standing material.

The quality of the selected plywood will depend on:

the quality level of the product itself;
operational characteristics of the boat;
the cost of finishing work;
time spent on finishing work;
the amount of material required;
the number of seams in the finished boat.

Therefore, you must take the choice with the utmost responsibility. Some parts of your flat-bottomed boat may require bars or planks, preferably dry and completely free from any flaws or damage.

Fiberglass, sold in rolls, is used to make the boat upholstery. You can cut it into pieces of the required size, which will be convenient for gluing joints and seams. A solid piece will be more appropriate for the bottom treatment.

Varnish, glue and paint are used to protect the boat from moisture. It is best if the varnish is ship-based and the paint is not water-based.

To make brackets for your boat, you can use plastic clamps and copper wire. Any other material is also suitable, which can then be easily removed.

Tool list:

electric jigsaw and a set of files for it;
grinder;
hammer and plane;
clamp;
tape measure, metal ruler and a simple pencil for marking;
brushes for applying varnish and glue;
spray gun for working with paint;
a spatula that will help level the fiberglass during the gluing procedure.

Boat manufacturing work: splice method

After you have selected the appropriate blueprints, you have prepared all necessary tools, you can start making the boat.

Note! In the event that you cannot find the plywood of the size required for your boat, it can be joined together using plywood splicing technologies.

Splicing technology:

Sheets of material must be laid on top of each other, outline the mustache line (its length consists of ten to twelve thicknesses of plywood sheet).
To obtain an even and high-quality result, it is recommended to secure the material with clamps and a limiting bar. It is along this bar that the mustache will form. Make sure that you do not have sharp drops along the length of this line.
The formed mustache must be sanded with a machine to perfect condition, constantly combining and adjusting the sheets.
An adhesive composition is applied to the mustache area, after which the plywood sheets must be folded on top of each other with treated surfaces and secured with clamps, placing weights on top to ensure full adhesion.
Excess glue should be removed immediately without waiting for it to dry.
After the glue dries, you can remove the clamps and keep the product at rest for 24 hours until the glue finally hardens.

Remaining glue must be cleaned sandpaper to even out the seam and make it less visible.

First, you need to mark the bottom on plywood, having previously laid it out on a flat surface. Focusing on your drawing, draw the centerline of the boat, after which you can place a grid on the basis of which the contours of the future product are marked.

For a snug fit of the joints, chamfers can be made at the edges of the plywood abutment. Suitable for this sanding machine... After that, you can sew the parts using staples and clamps. The procedure should start from the stern, gradually moving towards the bow of the boat, slowly bending the plywood. Both the sides and the transom are fixed.

The next step is to check the geometric dimensions of the structure. Then you need to tighten the clamps more tightly, place spacers in the places where the frames are installed to fix all the parts.

The gluing of the seams is carried out from the inside of the product. To do this, you need to take glue and fiberglass, which should be cut into strips 7 cm wide in advance.Using a brush, apply the adhesive to the joint, glue the fiberglass and smooth it with a spatula, removing bubbles and wrinkles. Seams need to be glued two or three times.