• What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

    It seems that regardless of the number of lamps and fixtures in the room, the corners on the ceiling always remain dark. This fact did not give me rest during the renovation in one of the rooms. After a quick look at the pictures on the Internet, I realized that my favorite was Peter Bristol's designer corner lamp ( Peter bristol). It was made for Established & Sons and cost a whopping $ 900!

    After searching a little more, I found attempts to make a similar lamp myself, but the information was not complete, without any instructions.
    I decided to take matters into my own hands and make my own corner lamp.

    This lamp consists of 3 main components: a plywood triangular frame, an inexpensive lamp with a cord, and a piece of clear acrylic (plexiglass). This lamp is easy to make, although it does take some skill. You will need a hand held power tool, and if you have a table saw, this will make everything much easier.

    Ready? Let's make it!

    Step 1: drawing the triangle

    Draw an equilateral triangle on a piece of plywood. As you can see in the photo, I used a digital protractor, but this can be done using a regular protractor (each angle should be 60 °).
    The size of the triangle must be large enough to fit the lamp with the base.
    I have 61cm each side of the triangle.

    After I drew the triangles, I drew another one with an indent in 2 cm (inner contour).

    Step 2: cut along the outer office

    Using the outer contour as a guide, cut a triangle out of the plywood. I made 45 ° cuts with a table saw. You can do exactly the same with hand power tools, although it will take more time and the quality of the cut will suffer, you will have to modify it with a file.

    Step 3: cut with a jigsaw

    At this point, you need to remove the inner section of the triangle.

    Use a drill large diameter to make the entry holes for the jigsaw. I drilled holes near each corner.

    Use one of drilled holes to start cutting. Saw as close to the pencil line as possible until you reach the next hole. Then repeat the same for the other 2 sides of the triangle.

    Step 4: remove the inner corners

    Step 5: mounting holes

    To fix the corner lamp frame to the wall, you need to prepare the mounting holes.

    I found some long screws and fitted a drill to match their diameter. The frame was fixed with the beveled side down, as it will be on the wall and drilled holes (outside).

    I made a countersink so that the screw heads would hide in the frame during installation.

    Step 6: clear acrylic

    A piece of clear acrylic was used to hide the light bulb and diffuse the light. Why didn't I use milk acrylic, you ask? The fact is that its surface will be glossy and it will be "too" not transparent, but it's a matter of taste.
    We cut a triangle out of acrylic so that it goes into the frame by 10-15mm from all sides.

    The plexiglass you find will most likely be covered with a protective film, which must be removed. Don't be afraid to scratch the acrylic. In the next step, it will become clear why.

    Step 7: sanding the acrylic

    In order to diffuse light, transparent acrylic must be made matte. I used a sander with sandpaper No. 120 (you can sand it with your hands). Evenly processed plexiglass on both sides.

    Finished with 180 sandpaper.

    Step 8: attaching the magnets

    To fix the plexiglass to the wooden frame and make it removable, because sometimes you have to change the lamp, I used 5mmx1.5mm neodymium magnets (they are much stronger than ordinary ones).

    Lay the acrylic on the frame as it needs to be placed. Make small corner marks on the frame, along the side of the acrylic.

    Then make a NOT through hole in the acrylic to prepare the magnet holder. The hole diameter is slightly larger than the magnet diameter.

    With instant glue or epoxy resin glue the magnets into place on the acrylic.

    Step 9: mate

    To give the magnets something to grip on, I screwed in metal flat head screws.

    To do this, I put our piece of acrylic on the frame and marked the locations for the magnets on the frame. To make the plexiglass fit snugly against the frame, I made holes so that the screw head will be hidden in the frame.

    Tighten the screws gently as the light frame is quite delicate.

    Step 10: electrical

    Before you mount the luminaire to the wall, prepare a cavity for the power cord at the back of the frame. I used a decorative fabric braid cable. It struck me as pretty cute and was cheap at a local store.

    Mark where the cord will be located, then carefully cut the cavity with any tool you like.

    Step 11: fix the frame to the wall

    Position the frame so that all sides are snug against the walls. The design of the luminaire is such that it fits into the corner only in a certain way, so that you will not confuse anything.

    The lamp holder must also be attached to the wall as it will hold the weight of the cord. Since we have a small enclosed space in the corner on the ceiling, it is preferable to use an LED lamp rather than an incandescent lamp.

    Step 12: Enjoy!

    With the help of magnets, acrylic will practically snap into place by itself.
    When you turn on the lamp, the corners will be beautifully highlighted!

    P.S. I made two of these lamps, one with a red cord and the other with a white one. I thought that white would stand out less against the background of the wall. In the end, I liked more that the red cord stands out on the wall.

    On sale now you can find not so many options for original lamps. And if they are, then they are not at all what we would like. However, it is not so difficult, with a little imagination, to bring some great ideas to life and let even more light into your room.

    Of course, we did not invent it, but we figured out how to make them original items for interior decoration. We would like to bring to your attention three completely different ideas - plexiglass lamps.

    What is plexiglass?

    Plexiglas is a very convenient material for processing at home. It can be sawed with a table saw, or drilled with conventional drills. When cutting, choose a medium speed: if you cut at too high a speed, the plexiglass can melt from overheating. You can buy plexiglass in almost any store building materials.

    A glass-like material made from acrylic, polystyrene or polycarbonate. Polystyrene is intended exclusively for indoor use, it is not resistant to either UV radiation or atmospheric precipitation (for example, snow pellets). Withstands temperatures from -20 to + 60 ° C. Polycarbonate is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, tolerates significant temperature drops (from -40 to + 120 ° C) very well, and can be used outdoors. Not afraid high temperature and can be used for cladding heating devices.

    Acrylic glass is similar in properties to polycarbonate, it can withstand temperatures from -20 to + 70 ° C. You will need sanding paper and a sanding block to get perfectly smooth edges or sand down scratches.

    We make original lamps with the correct shapes

    And now a few words about the manufacture of such a lamp:

    1. When cutting plexiglass with a circular saw, the cutting blade is set with a minimum overhang under the thickness of the material. When sawing, the pendulum stroke control should be at the "zero" mark
    2. Transparent plexiglass is easy to paint. The choice of transparent colored varnish or waterproof paint - we leave it to your taste
    3. The effect of a soft transition of lines occurs when you apply an ordinary colored varnish on an acrylic basis, smoothly brushing over the plexiglass parts. Do not touch the varnished surface with your hands, even if it is dry
    4. Clamps for fastening. Suitable as normal plastic underwear or wooden clothespins and special carpentry clamps

    In building materials stores, you can buy multi-colored sheets of plexiglass and immediately cut into parts of the required shape and size. You can buy standard plexiglass sheets and saw them yourself. In any case, additional sanding of the edges will be required. Use sanding paper and a sanding block for this.

    To suspend each luminaire, screw two hook screws into the wall and hang it on them. To prevent the luminaire from tilting towards the wall, a distance block must be attached to its back side using double-sided adhesive tape. That's all.

    1. Plexiglass sheets cut into square-shaped parts are covered with a matte or satin film on the back side, through which soft light seeps through.
    2. To prevent the plexiglass sheet from bursting or cracking when drilling holes, it is necessary to put plywood on both sides. The top sheet of plywood, which is the same size as the plexiglass sheet, will simultaneously serve as a template for drilling
    3. The edges of the surfaces to be painted must be covered with masking tape, which is removed after painting.

    4. In addition to small S-shaped hooks, you will also need a lamp with a fluorescent lamp.

    Backlit Vacation Photos

    Only you have such wonderful photos! Why not use them for interior decoration. Of course, it can be not only some beautiful landscapes or streets of old cities. When implementing this idea, you can use both children's photographs and photographs depicting, for example, family celebrations, sports successes.

    This lamp will be a wonderful gift for your friends and family. For example, what could be better than beautiful photo grandson for grandparents! You will probably agree that in this case your imagination is not limited by anything.

    1. Print your favorite photos on special printer paper. Do not use paper that is too thick for this, as it will not allow enough light to pass through.
    2. Use the drilling template and drill the holes. Then cut out pictures of the required format and fix them on colorless transparent film.
    3. First, attach a sheet of plexiglass to the luminaire frame, then a film with a photograph, then another sheet of plexiglass. Fasten all elements firmly with screws, then cut off the protruding edges of the film
    4. Such interesting lamps are available in different colors.

    Hello everybody brainworms... In today's project we will do it ourselves 3D lamp.

    For this project you will need:

    - Wooden board with a thickness of 6.5 mm
    - 6.5mm thick acrylic plate
    - LED strip length 10 cm
    - Battery
    - Soldering iron
    - Switch
    - Solder
    - Glue

    Step 1: laser cutting

    Start with laser cutting your blanks.
    We used the FSL Hobby Laser.

    The "base" file has two parts. This allows solid and hollow parts to be stacked on top of each other. Cut along the red line and engrave along the blue line. Only one part will need a blue line to engrave.

    Use 6.5mm material, cut through the row 8 times. This will give you 8 solid pieces and 8 hollow pieces. Keep one of the centers of the "hollow" part. This will close the base and act as a guide for installing the LEDs.

    For the acrylic plate, engrave the black sections. Cut along the red line.

    Step 2: gluing

    Stack the slotted pieces on top of each other to create a one-piece design. The slots will fit snugly for the acrylic plate. Use an acrylic plate to make sure all slots are lined up while gluing. If you are planning to make the lamp interchangeable, then be careful not to glue the acrylic plate onto the seat.

    After all the solid pieces are in place, start peeling off the discs to make a hollow cylinder. Glue this cylinder underneath the slotted parts. This will create a recess for the electronic components.

    Step 3: Wiring

    Make the circuit according to the attached diagram. We used a 9V battery and two sections of 12V LED strips. Other combinations are possible, but this would require recalculating some circuit components.

    Attach your LED strip to one additional piece of "hollow" circles. Align the circle with the engraved rectangle to align with the base of the acrylic plate. Attach the battery and wires to the base. When using a breaker, you can drill a section of the base to install the breaker so that it can be accessed from the outside.

    Step 4: Completion

    Sand the base to smooth out any unevenness in the surface. Varnish or paint if desired.
    Insert the acrylic plate into the stand. Add the bottom circle with electronics to the base.

    Step 5: glow

    The video of laser cutting is shown below

    Good luck with your projects!

    Hello everybody! In this master class, I'm going to show you how I made an amazing color LED lamp made of acrylic glass and wood. It is very modern and original design that fits perfectly into your bedroom or an expensive office.
    You can also watch the full video at the end of the article, where you can find more information on how I made this lamp.

    So let's get started!
    Materials that will be needed:

    • Wooden blocks - Purchase from your local store or sawmill.
    • You can buy acrylic glass at your local hardware store.
    • RGB LED Strip Light with controller -.
    • Epoxy resin.

    Instruments:

    • High performance rotary dremel.
    • Cordless drill.
    • Soldering iron.
    • Stripper.
    • Jigsaw.
    • Metal ruler.
    • Scissors.

    Cutting wood and acrylic glass to size




    For this project, I decided to use solid wood. I had a small 20mm thick piece in my workshop that is perfect for this purpose.
    The acrylic I used was 5mm thick and I think it is perfect combination with a tree.
    The base of the luminaire is 16 x 9 cm.
    The upper figure, placed vertically on the base of acrylic, measures 28 by 14 cm
    My experience with cutting acrylic has shown me that when you move the cross slide slowly, the acrylic melts, so you need to move faster to get clean cuts.

    Construction drawing of the upper part of the LED lamp





    Now I need to design the top of this lamp. I want to create a modern and clean design that matches my room.
    I traced its outline with a pencil and cut out the shape with scissors.
    Then I drew some lines with a ruler. The pattern consists of stripes with the same width but different lengths.
    Then I made all the cuts, and the drawing was transferred to acrylic.

    Picture engraving




    Now is the time to use your engraving tool.
    A flexible shaft engraver is a great choice for this job.
    To make perfectly straight lines, I used a metal ruler. I will engrave the drawing on the glass with an engraver.
    Then I cut off unnecessary parts with a jigsaw.

    Drilling holes in the middle of the timber for LEDs




    Now I can go to the base of the lamp.
    We mark the middle of the wooden block.
    I attached a 35mm hole drill to the drill and drilled a hole for the LEDs.
    Don't damage your table while drilling - place a piece of wood.

    Making a groove on the top of the base






    For the engraved acrylic piece, I need to make a groove on the top of the lamp base. I traced the outline with an acrylic pencil, placing it vertically in the middle.
    The best way to make a groove is to drill as many holes as possible inside the outline and then remove the excess with a file.
    I'll put the LEDs right under the acrylic, but I need to make more space for them. So, the groove turned out to be 10 mm wide and 4 mm deep.

    Making a hole at the bottom of the base for the controller






    The controller will be placed at the bottom of the base. It's quite large, but I didn't have a smaller one, which means I need to find a way to insert it into the bottom of the tree.
    I only use hot glue to secure it.
    To make a square window for the controller, I drilled a 12 mm diameter hole and then insert the jigsaw into the hole. I sawed out the window and trimmed it with a file.
    Another thing I need to do is drill 2 holes on the back side at the bottom. These will be the holes for the adapter and infrared receiver. Since I have a controller with a remote control.

    LED Strip Light



    I used RGB colored LED strip. A length of 50 cm is quite enough, so I took scissors and carefully cut along the marked line, between the copper pads.
    Before putting all the pieces together, I removed the protective film from the acrylic.

    Assembling the LED lamp






    I started the assembly by gluing the LEDs into the groove.
    Then I switched over to other items, and glued them with epoxy.
    The epoxy glue adheres well to wood and acrylic glass, so this is what I recommend.
    After all the manipulations, we clamp the base with a clamp and wait for the entire structure to dry.

    Substrate sanding and painting





    Temporarily I placed the LEDs inside the base and covered them with masking tape to keep dust out.
    Next, we go through with fine-grain sanding paper.
    The surface is ready for painting, so I apply a clear varnish (shellac) to highlight the beauty of the beech wood. This is the most enjoyable part of the whole project.

    Installing the controller



    Everything is working correctly, so I can put the controller on hot glue.



    Now I can enjoy the beauty of this beautiful design... This lamp is very simple and very modern at the same time.
    It was a very interesting and exciting process to create the lamp. I hope this detailed instructions will allow you to make your own lamp with your own hands. In continuation of all that has been said, I recommend watching the video instructions for the manufacture and testing of the lamp.

    A backlit plexiglass table is an area where you can apply your imagination to an unprecedented extent. There are many interesting technical and design tricks that you can use to create a real futuristic masterpiece.

    But we'll start by describing the basics. The main idea of ​​a plexiglass table is that we lay an LED strip along its perimeter, the light from which passes through the thickness of the glass, lingering only in those places where there are any irregularities in the surface, for example, roughness. And these irregularities start to glow!

    It is this property that we will use, purposefully cutting out all kinds of patterns on the surface of the org. glass.

    The first thing we need is the frame into which the glass is inserted. On one side of the frame, we will lay and secure the tape.

    Then we install the glass on top. In schematic form, it will look like this. As soon as the light from the tape enters its end part, the inscription will start to glow.



    Now we add backlighting from the bottom of the table and we get a rather curious result.

    Interesting pictures, patterns on the surface can be a good addition. You can also put printed posters under glass - it will look very interesting. A particularly powerful move would be to make these posters lightboxes to make them glow in the dark. An example of a lightbox is shown below.

    An idea that is gaining special popularity lately is the use of a volumetric mirror effect. It occurs when the LED strip hidden in the mirror frame, repeatedly reflecting from it, creates the illusion of an endless abyss.