What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Anyone who has ever come across with, knows very well what are the "ideal" walls in our houses. These are solid pits, bumps and cracks. If the defects are very large, then you can not do without or not, and to correct minor surface defects, you can use a special putty. In today's article we will consider what kind of composition it is, its types, in which cases it is used and how to properly putty walls and ceilings.

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What is putty, and what is it for

Putty or, more correctly, putty (from the name of the tool "spatula") is a fairly plastic finishing material that is used to eliminate surface defects, as well as create a durable and strong base under or. The preparation of walls or ceilings consists of several stages, and each of them requires its own type of this building and finishing composition.

A dry or ready-made putty mixture, which can be a starting, finishing and universal, consists of the following main ingredients:

• gypsum;
• various fillers;
• plasticizers;
• thickeners and hardeners.

Types of putty

As we have already mentioned, finishing work using puttying is carried out in several stages, and each of them needs its own type of special mixture, namely:

• starting putty designed to eliminate surface defects and is the basis for decorative finishing walls and ceilings;
• finishing mixture used to create the final decorative layer;
• universal putty can be used simultaneously as a starting and finishing mixture.

Putty Perfekta Start Glide

Putty Weber KR

Putty Perfekta Ecocraft

What spatulas are needed for filling walls and leveling corners

Spatulas are used in many types of construction finishing works, and everyone needs their own tool. They differ in size and shape. The table shows the main types of spatulas with an indication of their purpose.

Which wall putty is best to use when leveling surfaces

In addition to the fact that the putty is starting, finishing and universal, it also differs in composition. So, putty mixtures are:

• acrylic - are used for interior finishing work. This type of putty is characterized by high moisture resistance and versatility, protects walls from dampness, and is also used to create a decorative finishing layer and is suitable for working with wooden surfaces;
• water-dispersive - has high elasticity, good adhesion, resistance to cracks and shrinkage, and is also durable;
• oil and glue mixture. The putty composition is made on the basis of drying oil and is ideal for creating a finishing layer before painting the surface with oil paints;
• cement putty great for working with, stone and surfaces in rooms with high;
• gypsum mix used for work in rooms with low level humidity .

Why putty is needed - different for each layer

It is ineffective to apply any putty in several thin or one thick layer, since the material is expensive, and drying will take a lot of working time. Therefore, to eliminate significant defects and level the surface, they are used, after which a starting (1-3 mm) and finishing (up to 0.5 mm) layer is applied with a putty. To create a high-quality and more durable finish, you must use materials from one manufacturer.

Starter putty (plaster) helps create a solid base for subsequent finishing

Knauf Rotband plaster

It is possible to apply only one finishing layer only on a high-quality surface. Before puttingtying the wall or ceiling, it is imperative and only after that use the starting putty composition. After drying, it is sanded, dust removed and covered with a finishing layer.

DANOGIPS Dano Top 5 Putty

The surface to be painted afterwards must be brought to a perfectly even and smooth state. If the wall is finished for subsequent pasting, then it is enough to use a starting putty.

Plastering technology for walls and ceilings

Puttying is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. In order to perform the work efficiently, you need a certain experience, which can be acquired over time. In order to independently learn how to putty walls and ceilings, you must follow the instructions that will be presented below.

Surface preparation and priming

Before you start finishing the walls and ceiling with putty, you need to clean the surface of the old coating, greasy stains, dirt and dust. After that, the surface must be treated with a special primer, which will create good adhesion of the finishing material and the wall. Priming is carried out with a roller, avoiding gaps, and the wall is left to dry for at least 24 hours.

How to properly prepare the putty

To get a high-quality finished putty, you must follow the instructions that are indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer of the finishing material. To prepare the solution, you will need a clean plastic container of the appropriate volume. You will also need an electric drill with a special metal whisk for high-quality mixing of the dry mixture with water.

Putty solution is prepared in the following sequence:

1. ¼ part of clean water at room temperature is poured into the container.
2. Gradually add the required amount of dry mixture.
3. Using an electric mixer, stir the putty to a homogeneous state.
4. Leave the prepared composition for 10 minutes for proofing.
5. Stir the solution thoroughly again.
6. The consistency of the finished putty should look like thick sour cream. If the solution is thicker, then it will adhere worse to the surface, and the liquid composition flows down from the spatula and forms sagging on the treated surface.

A comment

"At one time you need to prepare the amount of solution that the master can use up in about 40 minutes."

Initial leveling of walls with putty

Before you level the walls with putty, you need to check them using a rule that will allow you to determine the bumps and depressions. Having identified significant defects in the form of protrusions, you can cut them down with an ax or a perforator with a chisel. Next, you need to prime the walls and only after that prepare the putty composition.

First, a small amount of putty needs to be applied in order to determine the speed of work. Using a narrow spatula, evenly apply the prepared mortar on the wider one, which is applied to the wall at an angle of about 60˚, and stretch it over the surface to be treated. The tool must be held firmly, but without excessive force. Over time, you can learn to control the pressure on the spatula.

A comment

Head of the team of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"

“Puttying the walls should start from the corner of the room. A special angled spatula is used for this. "

After the walls are plastered, you need to let them dry for 2 days. After drying, the quality of the work will be visible and where additional finishing is required. Irregularities are detected by the same rule. After that, the elimination of defects is performed in two ways:

1. If there are depressions on the surface, then they are filled with another layer of putty.
2. If there are bumps, they can be removed with a special trowel with an abrasive and a perfectly flat surface can be achieved.

After the surface has dried and the imperfections are eliminated, the walls are primed, and you can start applying the finishing putty or pasting.

Puttying the surface with beacons

The better the base, the less the finishing putty will go away and, accordingly, the repair will be cheaper. To obtain an ideal surface, special perforated profiles - "beacons" are used, which allow you to quickly and efficiently level the walls, which is perfect for beginners.

The metal profile is installed on a sand-cement mortar, focusing on a plumb line or a building level and achieving an ideal vertical. The distance between the beacons should be 100-150 mm less than the length of the building rule used. After installing the beacons, you need to let the solution dry so that they do not get lost during the subsequent finishing with putty.

Prepare a putty (described above) and fill the gap between the beacons with it, and the maximum layer thickness does not matter. Leaning on the profiles, stretch from the bottom up, cutting off the excess solution and, if necessary, filling the cavities with it. The operation is performed several times until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the temperature, humidity in the room and the thickness of the layer, the filler sometimes takes more than a week to dry.

How to apply the finishing coat to the wall

After the walls are properly prepared, you can proceed to finishing the surface with a finishing putty. For this, formulations are used, dry or ready-made, which, after processing, acquire a flat and ideally smooth surface. The finishing putty is applied in a thin layer, and the smoother the base, the less the mortar consumption will be. The technology of puttying and sanding practically does not differ from working with starting mixtures.

We bring to your attention a video on how to apply finishing putty on the wall:

Drying, sanding and sanding plastered walls

The final stage of finishing work with putty requires serious attention and consists of several stages. One of them is grinding, which is often skipped by inexperienced finishers, but first things first. So, after applying the finishing layer of putty, you need to let it dry well, since it is after this that the smallest defects become noticeable, namely cracks, which, when they occur, must be repaired.

Advice! To identify defects during filling, it is necessary to use lighting with a powerful bright lamp and aimed at a slight angle at the wall to be treated.

After the putty has dried, you need to sand the surface to remove small bumps and beads, as well as make the wall perfectly flat. If you intend to paste over the wall, then it will be enough to sand it well, and in case of staining, additional sanding will be required. To bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, you can use fine (almost zero) sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.

You need to start sanding from any upper corner and, making circular movements, process the wall, illuminating it with powerful bright. It is undesirable to apply strong pressure on the grater so as not to damage the finish layer.

A comment

Head of the team of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"

“Since sanding and sanding are very dirty and dusty finishing steps, it is worth wearing a respirator, goggles and gloves and keeping the area well ventilated. In addition, these protective measures are required by the safety instructions. "

How to do it yourself wall putty under the wallpaper

The technology of filling walls under practically does not differ from finishing surfaces under:

1. A solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package.
2. The work is carried out with two spatulas - one 150 mm wide and the second - at least 300 mm.
3. One section is processed, after the second, with an overlap of about 50 mm, etc.
4. After the wall is completely plastered, it is allowed to dry, and only then they begin to level the wall by sanding.
5. Clean the surface from dust, reapply the putty, and then everything is repeated from the beginning until a perfectly flat surface is reached.

When the wall is completely plastered, it is primed and pasted over. The application of a primer prevents the formation of mildew, mold and dampness, and also improves the adhesion between different finishing materials. The video shows how to properly putty the walls under the wallpaper:

Plastered walls for painting with your own hands

Photo	Process description
	First of all, with a wide spatula, like a scraper, we remove minor defects from the wall in the form of tubercles and sagging.
	As a rule, we check the evenness of the wall.
	We pay special attention to the corners.
	If there are bumps, we remove them using a perforator with a chisel.
	We prime the wall with a roller or spray gun.
	We apply a cement-sand mortar in the corners along the entire vertical.
	The rule is to tighten the solution.
	We get such an almost perfect and even angle.
	For puttying, we will use a polymer dry putty and a ready-made pasty solution.
	We glue an angle-forming tape on the putty, which will help to avoid the formation of cracks.
	We remove the excess filler on the perforations.
	With putty, we remove the minimum differences between the flight and the wall.
	The result should be such a perfectly even angle.
	Now we are preparing a putty solution from a dry polymer mixture.
	We apply the putty solution to the wall.
	Apply the putty in a thin layer.
	After the first layer has dried, use a spatula to scrape off the slightest bumps and nodules.
	Apply the second layer of putty by installing a spotlight on the side, which helps to reveal surface defects.
	After the second layer has dried, sand the wall with a grater and a portable lamp.
	After sanding and removing dust, apply a glass fiber glue with a spray gun, adding a gray pigment to it. By the way, on a gray surface, when applying a white putty, it will be clearly visible where the solution is applied in an insufficient amount.
	We glue the fiberglass on the wall and smooth it with a spatula.
	Apply a thin layer of ready-made superfinishing putty mixture on the fiberglass with a thin layer.
	After the putty has dried, we grind the wall, prime and apply

The putty will hide the seams

Sealing joints

Fasteners

Putty compounds

• cement;
• gypsum;

Basis qualities

• incombustibility;
• low cost;

Related articles:

Before gluing the wallpaper, it is imperative to prepare the walls - prime them and finish with putty. This allows you to achieve the required level of surface smoothness. But what if you are going to glue wallpaper on drywall? Do I need to putty it? The answers are in our article!

1 Plasterboard walls - are they that smooth?

Regardless of the quality and density of the wall covering, most often the craftsmen are advised to putty drywall before gluing the wallpaper. Although some try to avoid this job. The sheets themselves undergo careful processing, as a result, the surface of the product is really very even, the wall after sheathing with sheets becomes smooth. However, this is clearly not enough for wallpapering.

It is very difficult to fit two sheets of gypsum board with millimeter accuracy

The seams are of the greatest importance here. No master will be able to perfectly fit two sheets of gypsum board with millimeter precision. In any case, there will be a small difference, and for wallpaper this option is absolutely unacceptable, since after pasting all the seams will clearly stand out against the general background. Another problem that manifests itself after installing drywall is fasteners. Typically, the screw heads will protrude no matter how hard you try. The hat should be flush with the surface of the drywall, but most often it turns out to either drown the screw too much, or tighten it not enough.

If you are making a rounded wall, it is also better to putty drywall under the wallpaper. Indeed, with this installation, the gypsum board bends. The effect is achieved by piercing the drywall with a special roller, after which the holes are thoroughly moistened. As in other cases, regardless of the professionalism of the work performed, the recesses from the holes will be felt under any wallpaper, even the most durable.

2 Why is wall preparation so important?

As a rule, puttying is used in cases where the walls are characterized by a large number of cracks, protrusions, grooves and other mechanical defects. It should be understood that, despite the thickness and strength of the wallpaper, all the disadvantages that were described above, some time after gluing, will certainly manifest themselves. That's why experienced craftsmen it is recommended to putty plasterboard walls without fail before applying wallpaper to them. It doesn't matter if non-woven or vinyl wallpapers you choose, the absence of a layer of putty will negatively affect the durability and quality of the paper coating.

The heads of the screws must be flush with the surface of the gypsum board

Highly important point- in the places where the gypsum board is fastened to the frame crate, as well as the seams, small voids are formed, which are filled with air. Even after pasting, the air will not disappear anywhere. Over time, a very unpleasant effect will be observed, when the wallpaper gradually begins to recede in places of accumulation of air masses.

It would seem, why then not apply a layer of putty to those areas that promise the greatest number of problems in the future? Indeed, this will save a lot of time, as well as money for putty. However, there are also some nuances here. First of all, it should be remembered that the surface of the drywall differs in color from the putty. Therefore, the treated areas will stand out clearly after the wallpaper dries. This is especially true for wall coverings in lighter and more soothing shades.

You should also take into account possible future changes in the room. After all, if over time you will no longer like the current wallpaper, or you want to use other materials, for example, the same rolled fiberglass, then the old wallpaper will need to be removed. However, this is a very difficult procedure, since the top layer of drywall will come off along with the wallpaper. Naturally, such deformations of the upper GCR layer have a destructive effect on all of its operational properties.

Here are a few more reasons that will convince you of the need to putty the walls before gluing the wallpaper:

• Putty, especially applied together with a primer, significantly increases the reliability, resistance, and durability of the surface.
• It may well be observed defective sections of the gypsum board, which were obtained either during transportation or during construction work. However, the putty will completely mask any areas that stand out.
• Drywall, as a rule, has a water-repellent surface. The consequence of this is problems with some types of adhesives, which do not fit well enough on a wall sheathed with plasterboard. If you prime and putty the surface, then it will acquire the necessary level of adhesion in order to adhere well and reliably to any glue.

3 Putty for gypsum board - what is better to use?

So, we came to the conclusion that it is still better to putty the walls under the wallpaper. Now let's try to determine which formulations are best suited for these purposes. The putty is divided into starting and finishing. Preference should be given to finishing compounds, since the drywall surface initially has the required level of smoothness. If suddenly there was no finishing mixture at hand, then the starting mixture will also suit you. The only difference is that the finishing putty is fine-grained, accordingly, it must be applied in a thin layer, then slightly sanded.

When working with drywall, preference should be given to finishing compounds.

Working with starting putty is associated with some additional work, including subsequent grinding, it will be necessary to achieve the desired degree of evenness and smoothness of the wall. Regardless of the type of composition chosen, drywall must be primed without fail. You can work only with compositions intended for interior decoration. Putty for outdoor use contains many additives that increase resistance to temperature changes and precipitation. However, such additives have a negative impact on human health due to the release of harmful waste into the environment.

When choosing a mixture for processing drywall walls, pay attention to its composition, as well as fillers. Typically, various polymer components, gypsum or cement are used. For ordinary living quarters, gypsum-based putties are suitable. Their cost is somewhat lower. If you are going to use the mixture in rooms with a high level of humidity, then you need to buy a cement-based composition. The cost of the goods in this case will be higher. Polymeric substances are universal, perfect for work in any room, although they are more expensive than all other analogues.

Dry mixes are more popular due to their long term of use - in a dry state, the putty can be stored for a very long time. Difficulties can only lie when mixing a substance with water, because the correct concentration is of great importance. Too much liquid mixture characterized by sagging and spreading over the surface. If you add not enough water, then the putty will begin to crack after drying.

Ready-made formulations can boast that they do not need to be stirred, but you can immediately start working. However, they cannot be stored for a long time, the composition loses all its properties after a few days. It is necessary to apply the putty immediately after opening the container.

4 How to carry out the work - the subtleties of the process

First, we check how well the fasteners are made, in particular, the screw heads. When filling, it is better to make sure that the screws are below the surface level, rather than stand out above it. To check with a spatula, we run over the drywall, pressing it tightly to the surface. Any changes in the surface level, including screws, you will immediately feel. Such self-tapping screws need to be screwed in deeper, and then proceed to the next step.

When puttingtying, it is necessary to carry it over the drywall with a spatula, pressing it tightly to the surface

Now glue the serpentine damper tape, which is made from fiberglass, to the seams. We prime the gypsum board, apply the first rough layer of putty and glue the tape to the seams, gently pressing it with a little effort. A solution appears through the mesh, which should be carefully spread with a spatula. The appearing nodules should not upset you; after grouting, not a trace will remain of them. After the solution has dried, it needs to be sanded a little with a sandpaper or grater. This is followed by a layer of primer and putty again.

Experts recommend applying two coats of finishing putty for maximum results. Naturally, all work is carried out exclusively after the previous layer of primer or putty has dried. In this regard, it can take a lot of time, usually about three days. You need to putty in good artificial lighting, which is on the side. A powerful lamp is ideal for these purposes. It will allow you to identify possible flaws, as well as instantly correct them.

Having aligned the walls in the apartment with drywall, many ask the question: is it necessary to putty drywall before gluing the wallpaper? After all, drywall sheets have a fairly flat surface on which the wallpaper will stick without any problems. But if you try to understand this topic in more detail, you will understand that plastering drywall under the wallpaper will help to avoid many unpleasant moments.

Why do you need to putty drywall before wallpapering?

Plasterboard putty is necessary for several reasons:

1. A wall lined with drywall sheets will still not be perfectly smooth. The joints of the sheets and the points of fastening with screws will be noticeable under the wallpaper, especially if they are thin and light enough.
2. During installation or operation, walls made of plasterboard, which is a rather fragile material, can receive various damage. All of them will also appear clearly under the wallpaper.
3. It is necessary to completely putty the wall. There is a temptation to process only joints and attachment points, but you do not need to give in to it. Yes, it's faster and easier, but if you want to change the wallpaper? Without additional surface treatment, they stick tightly to drywall. You will have to glue the new wallpaper onto the old one or change the plasterboard base after trying to remove the old wallpaper. Putty and drywall primer can help avoid these problems.

Preparation for putty

Before you putty drywall under the wallpaper, the surface must be prepared.

• In the initial phase, debris and dust should be removed from the sheets.
• Check if the screws are screwed in correctly. The protruding fasteners must be tightened using a screwdriver.

Attention! If the self-tapping screw is screwed in too deeply, more than half the thickness of the sheet, then you will have to unscrew it completely. A new self-tapping screw must be screwed into the wall at a distance of at least 5 cm from the remaining empty hole.

• To identify defects in the wall, it is necessary to run along it with a wide spatula. It should slide smoothly. Found deep dents or scratches on the wall are repaired even before applying the main layer of putty.
• Before plastering, the wall must be primed. Primer, better on water based, apply with a roller in one layer and allow to dry. Acrylic primer for plasterboard under the wallpaper will not cause warping of the drywall sheet, and after drying will provide reliable adhesion to the applied putty.

Usually drywall sheets are chamfered at the edges. If it is missing, it is necessary to trim them with a knife at an angle of 45 degrees. A chamfer is needed for better processing of joints, the layer of putty on them should be thicker.

• Also, all joints must be glued with a reinforced serpyanka mesh. It must be pressed a little into the recess, positioned so that the seam passes exactly in the middle of the tape.

Putty joints

First of all, you should putty all the joints of the sheets.

For work, it is advisable to use a narrow and wide spatula. It is convenient for narrow ones to apply putty on the seam, and wide ones - to level it.

Work is carried out in the direction from top to bottom. The composition should fill the seam completely, even protrude a little, since the putty shrinks when it dries. After the walls treated in this way are dry, the excess can be removed by sanding. If it is impossible to fill the seams in one layer, it is necessary to let the composition dry, and only then repeat the operation.

Corner putty

How to putty drywall corners? This is one of the most difficult stages, which involves the preparation of drywall structures for wallpapering. Walls can form inside and outside corners and are handled differently.

To remove the outer corners, special elements are used. These are perforated corners made of plastic or aluminum. The former are used when processing curved corners, such as arches. With the help of rigid aluminum corners, right angles are derived.

• The corner is applied to the wall at the attachment point and outlined with a pencil.
• The drywall is cut with a knife slightly wider than the resulting contour, at a distance of 3 mm from the marking lines.
• A chisel is used to select a groove for the corner, which should also be slightly more than the thickness of the latter.

• The resulting depression in the wall is coated with glue or putty, and then a corner is pressed into it. At the same time, it should sink a little compared to the general level of the wall.
• The solution protruding through the perforation of the corner is leveled, and after drying, the corner is puttied flush with the wall.

The process is quite long, but while one corner dries, you can do the rest.

Preparing drywall for wallpapering also includes processing the inner corners.

• Like the seams, at the initial stage they are glued with a reinforcing tape.
• The sides of the corner are putty in turn, using a special corner trowel.

Processing of attachment points of gypsum board

When fastening drywall sheets, a large number of self-tapping screws are used. The depressions formed in the places of their attachment must also be leveled.

Tip: it is advisable to tackle the attachment points in parallel with the processing of corners and seams: during these processes, there is always a small surplus of material that can be used to seal the caps of self-tapping screws.

In this case, the putty should be applied in a criss-cross pattern, this will help to achieve an even surface better and faster.

Plastering the entire surface of the plasterboard wall

In the future, the entire surface of the wall is covered with a thin layer of putty.

Some professionals advise to dilute the putty mixture to a more liquid state and use a brush for application.

After drying, the leveled surface is monitored, for which you can use the building level. When applying the putty to the wall, remember that protrusions are preferable to depressions, as they can be easily removed by sanding.

The processing of drywall is finished before gluing the wallpaper by grinding and priming the resulting surface:

• The protrusions, sagging and irregularities formed during the putty process can be removed with fine emery paper or by cutting off the reinforcing tape.
• Then the surface must be cleaned of dust and covered with a primer.

After the primer has dried, you can proceed to the finishing stage of finishing - glue the wallpaper.

Gluing wallpaper on plasterboard covered with putty is very easy and gives a guaranteed high-quality result. And most importantly, with the subsequent change of wallpaper, you will avoid a headache, thinking about how to remove the old wallpaper covering - the canvases are removed from the putty surface without much effort.

Plasterboard putty before wallpapering - pros and cons

Almost any repair is not complete without the use of drywall. construction material capable of performing several functions, while its cost is low. With the help of drywall sheets, you can level the walls, make multilevel ceilings, create partitions, built-in niches, you can also make a soundproof wall and much more. When performing interior work using drywall, it becomes necessary to process its front side so that the design of the room is beautiful and stylish.

Plasterboard sheets are used to level surfaces. Therefore, sheathing the walls with such sheets, we get flat areas to which external processing can be applied to complete the design of the room.
There are several types of drywall coating, but the easiest way, which has gained popularity among people, is to glue wallpaper on it. This option is easy to implement with your own hands and the cost of its implementation will be minimal.

Before gluing the wallpaper, you need to decide whether you need to putty drywall under the wallpaper.

Wallpaper gluing after putty.

Glue wallpaper on drywall without putty - cons

• The drywall surface, although it seems flat, may have manufacturing defects and scratches resulting from installation. Wallpapering will make all these defects visible on the surface of the walls;
• The joints between drywall sheets will shine through on the wallpaper, due to this, the walls will appear uneven;
• Fasteners with which the sheets are attached to the profiles can shine through under the wallpaper, or they can rust, thereby spoiling the appearance of the pasted surfaces;
• If the selected wallpaper is light shades, then the color of the plasterboard wall can shine through through them;
• At the next repair, it will not work to remove the wallpaper strips from the walls without damaging the surface of the drywall. Since the top layer of drywall is cardboard, the wallpaper will stick to it very tightly, and tearing off will damage the top layer of the drywall sheet.

Tips that must be adhered to when doing work on gluing drywall with wallpaper with your own hands

If a decision is made to glue the wallpaper on drywall without prior puttying, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• Before gluing, treat metal parts on drywall with an anti-corrosion agent;
• It is advisable to putty the joints of the drywall sheets;
• Wallpaper to choose dense, possibly bright colors, in the advantage with a heterogeneous texture;
• Please note that if non-moisture-resistant drywall is used, then it cannot be abundantly treated with glue, since it can get wet;
• The joints of the glued wallpaper strips should not coincide with the joints of the drywall sheets;
• For a durable wallpaper service, choose high-quality material so that they do not have to be torn off in the near future, thereby damaging the walls.

However, if the finishing work on drywall is carried out correctly and with high quality, then its surface must be putty before further processing. When doing repairs with your own hands, you need to know how to putty drywall under wallpaper.

The choice of putty

First you need to choose the right filler. There are two types of putty for wall filling:

Dry putty must be independently brought to the desired consistency. It can be problematic to do it, if not. the necessary tool to stir the mixture. Also, such a mixture dries up faster, respectively, the work must be done quickly enough.

The finished solution dries more slowly and is easier to apply, but it is more expensive. Therefore, the choice of putty depends on material capabilities.

When working, you will need two types of putties: starting (with a large fraction) and finishing (finer, for the final smoothness of the walls).

Plasterboard putty: how to do the job.

Stages of plasterboard plastering:

• Primer the entire surface drywall sheet... Prime joints, scratches, defects, if any;
• The joints are glued with serpyanka tape and putty;
• The entire surface of the wall is putty, it is recommended to putty three times. Before each next time, the putty must dry completely;
• Sand the surface with sandpaper until the wall is completely smooth;
• Final priming. It is carried out for better adhesion of the putty surface to the wallpaper.

How to prepare drywall for finishing.

For people who make repairs with their own hands, consider in more detail the stages of plastering drywall.

For priming a drywall wall, you can choose an acrylic primer, it will protect against fungi and give a good adhesion to the putty. It is better to apply the primer with a wide brush in order to grease the entire surface well.

When filling walls, you must have two spatulas: narrow and wide. Use a narrow spatula to pick up the putty, and use a large one to apply it to the wall. Glue the joints with reinforcing tape so that the wall does not crack later in these places.

Using a spatula to putty drywall.

After finishing the filling and complete drying, the surface must be sanded. However, do not rub hard with emery, so as not to remove the top layer of putty, otherwise everything will have to start over. Before starting grouting the walls, it is advisable to wear a mask or respirator so as not to inhale dust.

After preparing the walls, you can proceed directly to the wallpapering.

Thus, you can glue wallpaper on drywall in two ways: without preliminary filling the walls and with filling. It all depends on the desired result and material capabilities. The result will look better and more durable, which will be obtained with preliminary puttying of the drywall sheet.

Sticking wallpaper on drywall after putty.

Picture 3. Sticking wallpaper on drywall after putty.

You can glue the wallpaper without puttingty, then you need to pay special attention to the quality and density of the wallpaper. It is necessary that the papered walls have a decent look for the longest possible period of time.
The preparatory work carried out before pasting requires a lot of time and work skills. However, do not despair, it is worth it. A well-pasted room with your own hands will delight for a long time and bring satisfaction from the work done.

Do I need to putty drywall under the wallpaper

Doubts about whether it is necessary to putty drywall before gluing wallpaper require a reasoned consideration of the reasons for the consistent performance of this type of work.

This question may not apply to temporary structures in which long-term preservation is not essential. appearance walls, drawing liquid wallpaper or gluing a fiberglass topcoat that is only going to be painted over its 30 years of service.

In other cases, creating such a layer before gluing roll material plays an important role.

The practical value of the putty

The putty will hide the seams

Replacing traditional plaster with modern technology cladding the frame with industrial-made sheets creates a desire to simplify installation even more.

Indeed, why putty drywall if the glue conveniently and firmly connects the paper surface of the gypsum board to the wallpaper?

The list of the main reasons for a careful approach to this stage of preparing wallpaper gluing looks like this:

Metal corners protect corners from mechanical damage

Deviations of the plane from the standard up to 3 mm when installing drywall fragments are eliminated with a putty.

1. The structure contains metal parts (self-tapping screws, squares), which are recessed in the plane of the sheet. These irregularities need to be eliminated and, in addition, to protect the metal from moisture - over time, rust can appear on the surface of the finish.
2. The edges of plasterboard products are made in different shapes, so they must be aligned with the main surface.
3. Bonding to the paper backing layer of drywall will prevent old wallpaper from being removed without damaging it. Applying a continuous layer of putty on the entire plane of the sheet will allow in the future instead of overhaul with the replacement of destroyed sheets of gypsum board, make the current replacement of decorative trim.

Defects are found by swiping along the wall with a wide spatula

The detection of small defects of the surface assembled on the frame is carried out with a wide construction trowel. When smoothly sliding its blades on the cardboard, dents, impact marks, and scratches are found.

The big rule and the building level reveal the curvature of the plane. Deep depressions on the plasterboard wall are sealed with a leveling compound before applying a continuous thin layer of putty.

Taking into account the above circumstances, the question "is it necessary to putty drywall under the wallpaper?" will have a definite answer "yes".

Sealing joints

Seams are closed in several stages using a mesh

A separate list of operations is putty at the joints, since the entire cutting pattern will necessarily appear under the glued strips. During installation, it will not be possible to obtain the same surface plane, there will be slight differences, deflections, irregularities, temperature, vibration or displacements of fragments separated by gaps due to changes in air humidity.

In order to eliminate such shortcomings, the seams are not just covered up, but they are done in several stages with reinforcement with a reinforcing tape:

Actions for sealing joints are carried out in the direction from top to bottom. The sub-base is pressed into the joint with a trowel to fill it completely to the maximum penetration depth.

During the drying process, the putty will shrink, so it is applied in a thick layer. The protruding residues can be removed by sanding after hardening.

Sink the caps of the screws in the drywall

Self-tapping caps, squares aligning the perpendicular mates of the coating must be immersed in drywall.

The place of installation of the corner on the wall is first marked in the right place with a pencil. The drywall is cut with a sharp knife 3 mm wider from the resulting contour line.

The recesses from the fasteners are putty after sealing the seams.

Putty compounds

To carry out the work, you need to choose the right materials. Before applying the filler, the sheets are treated with a penetrating primer and allowed to dry for 4 hours.

According to their purpose, putty compositions are divided into starting mixtures and finishing compounds. The starting one is used for the initial preparation of the surface to be treated for the finishing coating. It has good adhesion, adheres confidently to other materials. A smooth outer surface is achieved using finishing ready-made solutions.

These materials are produced for the production of both external and internal works. The quality directly depends on the cost of the material - the low attractive price indicates the possibility of the same quality of the components used for the production. In addition, inexpensive mixtures show increased consumption, which does not lead to cost savings.

Dry mixtures are diluted before application.

The putty mixture is sold in the form of a dry powder, which is diluted with water or in a ready-made measuring container. The peculiarity of the liquid composition is the need for spending in a fairly short time.

Ready-made putties from well-known manufacturers are manufactured in the factory in compliance with the technology, have the required dosage and consistency, which is important for the high-quality result of the entire putty process.

According to the choice of the main component, they are divided into 3 types:

• cement;
• gypsum;
• polymer. For more information on how to putty the GKL base, see this video:

When applied to gypsum plasterboard, it is permissible to apply various compositions depending on the conditions of the room. For the bathroom, use only cement-based putty. Polymer compositions are quite versatile, but they are expensive.

Basis qualities

The resulting base should provide an even, bump-free fit of the finish

When deciding whether it is necessary to putty drywall under the wallpaper, it is worth considering the advantages of the material itself, which is better protected and preserved for long-term use.

The material has become so popular in construction for such its distinctive qualities:

• ecological cleanliness, safety for the health of residents;
• incombustibility;
• simplicity in the production of installation work;
• low cost;
• ease of processing for any solution;
• strengthening the heat and sound insulation of the room;
• minimum preparatory work for any finish.

Sheathe the wall, level the surface, change the layout, put an additional partition - just do it yourself with the help of gypsum board.

Which is better: gypsum plasterboard and drywall on the walls

Drywall painting without putty

Which is better: plaster or drywall for the walls

Do I need to putty drywall under the wallpaper: the type of materials used, puttying the walls and wallpapering

Is it worth sticking wallpaper on clean drywall or would it be better to cover the surface with a layer of putty in advance? A similar question arises if the repair is done by hand and at the same time you really want to cope with the task quickly and at minimal cost.

It would seem, what is the problem? Wallpaper is, in fact, paper and gypsum board covered with paper, which means that it will be good to glue paper to paper. But there are several nuances that should be taken into account when making the final decision on finishing work.

Surface for putty

Type of materials used

In the photo - moisture resistant gypsum board

Despite the fact that drywall appeared relatively recently in the post-Soviet space, it managed to become one of the most demanded and popular finishing materials... Currently, there are two main varieties of this material on sale, namely, the usual and moisture resistant modification.

As the name suggests, the usual modification is used when decorating rooms with a normal level of humidity, while a moisture-resistant type of drywall can be used where the level of moisture content in the air is excessive (bathroom, kitchen, balcony, etc.).

In addition to different operational features, conventional and moisture-resistant gypsum boards behave differently when gluing wallpaper. For example, the surface of ordinary drywall provides good adhesion due to the fact that it absorbs wallpaper glue. The moisture-resistant modification of the gypsum board is less inclined to absorb the glue, and therefore the adhesion of the wallpaper and the surface is insufficient.

Lack of adhesion can be compensated for with a layer of putty. The putty adheres equally well to the surface of any drywall, and wallpaper on an even layer of such a finish also demonstrates optimal adhesion.

Another important point is the type of wallpaper used. For example, it is dangerous to glue thin wallpaper onto drywall because it will show through. As a result, on the walls, in addition to the pattern on the wallpaper itself, there will be noticeable markings applied to the gypsum board from the factory.

It is highly likely that through the thin wallpaper there will be visible transitions from untreated drywall to joints covered with putty.

Without plastering the surface of the walls, you complicate the following repairs

However, there is a more important reason why it would be better to putty the surface before installation. The fact is that even high-quality glued wallpapers, regardless of their modification, can get bored over time. And if you are planning a cosmetic repair, you will surely face the problem of dismantling the old coating.

If wallpaper can be removed from a previously plastered surface without much difficulty, then the same material glued directly to drywall is removed much more difficult. As a result, fragments of old wallpaper will remain on the surface of the gypsum board, or the plasterboard structure will generally be damaged and repairs with mandatory putty will be required.

So what conclusion can be drawn from all of the above? There is no universal answer to the question of whether it is necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering. But, if you need maximum confidence in the optimal result of finishing work, it will be better to putty, sand and prime the surface.

We putty the walls quickly and efficiently

Universal putty, the price of which is justified by the quality

After we have decided that there is no superfluous putty on the walls, we will consider what the instructions for finishing work are. Since we putty the walls under the wallpaper, gypsum mixtures intended for finishing should be used.

To carry out the planned work, you will need the following tool:

• a clean plastic bucket with a volume of 10 liters;
• slow-speed drill and a special mixing attachment;
• the spatula is wide and the spatula is narrow;
• a rule with a length of at least 1.5 m;
• grater with clamps and sandpaper with zero grain.

Of the materials you will need:

• dry mix for finishing drywall;
• mesh tape for sealing joints;
• acrylic primer;
• water.

In the photo, the distribution of the layer of putty

Finishing work is carried out as follows:

• The surface of the gypsum board is carefully dedusted and primed.
• After the primer has dried, we prepare the putty solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
• We collect the mortar with a small spatula and fasten the mesh tape over the gaps.
• Then we fill the grooves for the self-tapping screws with a solution.

It is important to proceed with subsequent work only after the applied putty has dried.
Thus, it will be possible to avoid the occurrence of relief and cracking.

• Next, apply the mortar with a small spatula along the entire length of the large spatula and spread it evenly over the entire wall. As a result, the thickness of the putty coating should be no more than 1-2 mm.
• After applying an even layer, we wait from 2 to 4 days until everything is dry, after which you can start sanding.

Important: When sanding, a lot of fine dust is generated, so using a respirator will be very helpful.

Summing up the above, we note that the putty will delay the wallpapering by no more than one week, but in this case, the waste of time is fully justified.

We glue the wallpaper correctly

Applying glue to the strip

Gluing wallpaper on drywall begins with surface preparation. To do this, the pre-plastered wall is carefully primed in two layers with a time interval necessary for each primer layer to dry out.

If the installation of plasterboard structures was carried out with high quality and in accordance with technological requirements, then gluing wallpaper will not become something difficult.

We need the following tools:

• special rectangular container to dip the roller in glue;
• a clean plastic bucket for making glue;
• roller with medium length pile;
• brushes (narrow for gluing corners and wide for working at the junction of walls and ceilings);
• sharp assembly knife;
• wallpaper brush.

Getting started:

• We prepare the glue in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer.
• Trying on the wallpaper along the height of the wall.
• We spread a strip of wallpaper over a previously prepared surface.
• We cover the wallpaper with a thick layer of glue and leave it for a while so that the base has time to soak.
• We cover with glue a part of the wall 10 cm wider than the width of the roll.

Important: The gluing can be done end-to-end or with an overlap, but, one way or another, we start from the window towards the door.

• We unfold the first strip and glue it so that the margin at the ceiling is 20 mm. At the same stage, we check the perpendicularity of the horizon line.

Important: Regardless of how smooth the walls are and what the method of gluing is, about a third of one roll will go to fit and the forced overrun of wallpaper per average room.

In the photo - gluing the strip and smoothing with a wallpaper brush

• After the strip is attached, smooth it with a wallpaper brush, first from top to bottom, and then along the sides to disperse the air.
• Next, we cut the strip along the floor line and make cutouts for sockets and switches. Such work is performed when the power supply is disconnected.

Now you will find out whether it is necessary to putty drywall before gluing the wallpaper, as well as how to work with the putty and how to glue the wallpaper. It remains to purchase the necessary materials, prepare the required tool and get to work.

How to make a drywall screen for a bath with your own hands?

When you need to get perfectly flat walls, sheet dry plaster is used, but in this case the question arises whether it will be necessary to putty drywall before gluing the wallpaper, because it is already smooth. Let's consider all the nuances and find the answer.

Are plasterboard walls perfectly smooth?

This kind of finishing is carried out precisely for the reason that dry plaster is made up of sheets of cardboard, with which a rather thick layer of gypsum is covered on both sides. It is logical that the front surface of this material is really smooth. But the wall itself after finishing can have quite a lot of minor, almost invisible to the eye irregularities. First of all, these are the seams. No matter how diligently you adjust the profiles of the aluminum frame, they still will not be on the same plane with an accuracy of a fraction of a millimeter.

Perfectly flat plasterboard walls

Consequently, at the junction of two sheets, a small drop may form, which is invisible against the background of the entire sheathing, but appears after painting or pasting wallpaper. Often, bevels are made on the edges of dry plaster sheets, which are designed to obtain a more accurate and accurate joint. As a result, a rather distinct groove appears along the seam, which will be clearly visible under the wallpaper. Other places where irregularities almost certainly appear during the installation of drywall are fastening points, screw heads are visible on the surface of the sheets. Even if you screw them flush, the protrusions and grooves after the wallpaper is glued will still be felt.

Moreover, it is difficult to maintain a high screwing accuracy up to a certain level, and some hats will protrude above the surface, others will be too deeply recessed. And, finally, the most rare irregularities are in areas where drywall was bent to obtain, by piercing it with a special roller with rows of teeth, followed by moistening. Here, small holes in the form of recesses will almost certainly be felt through the wallpaper.

Several main reasons for applying putty

It would seem that this type of finish is needed only where obvious protrusions and notches are visible on the surface. Drywall is visually smooth, and the seams are often almost invisible. So, maybe if we use, for example, non-woven or vinyl, we can do without putty? Let's find out whether it is necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering. So, you have a good, dense wallpaper that will definitely hide all small irregularities, including the joints between the sheets, which are sewn onto the frame completely flawlessly. However, there are still seams, and under the cladding, if dry plaster is not glued to the wall, there is a void. Thus, air will remain at the joints under the wallpaper, as well as at the fastening points where the screw heads are located. As a result, the vinyl or non-woven finish may begin to peel off over time.

Applying the mixture to the walls of the gypsum board

You can, of course, remember the problem areas listed above and try to hide only them under a layer of putty. Then the wall sheathed with plasterboard will become completely flat. But let's imagine that someday you want to stick not vinyl, but rolled fiberglass that can be painted. And, tearing off the old wallpaper, along with them you will begin to tear off the pieces of cardboard that covers the sheets of dry plaster. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the surface of the cardboard coating of dry plaster has a color that is very different from the putty, and the spots of the applied putty will be clearly visible through most types of wallpaper after they have dried. And if you are lining the walls with waterproof plasterboard and plan to stick white wallpaper on it, the green color of the sheets will pretty much shine through.

There are several other reasons for pre-filling dry sheeting. Firstly, such a finish will increase the durability of the cladding, its reliability, especially taking into account the priming. Secondly, by applying a thin finishing layer of putty, you can eliminate defective areas, if any, on drywall. And, finally, moisture-resistant dry plaster sheet has a water-repellent surface, which is why not every wallpaper glue will fit well on it - either there will be no adhesion (sticking), or the substance will collect in drops. Putty, like a special primer, is applied, including on such surfaces, so such a finish must be done so that the wallpaper has high-quality contact with drywall.

Choosing a mixture that is suitable for its properties - is the finishing one suitable?

We figured out the question of whether it is necessary to putty the wall drywall under the wallpaper, now let's decide on the materials. First of all, it should be remembered that such finishing mixtures are divided into starting and finishing. And if you have already covered the walls with dry sheet plaster, this completely replaces you rough finish and even partially finishing. After all, the surface of the drywall is initially very smooth. That is why we do not even consider starting mixtures as an option for finishing, you only need finishing ones. But suppose you didn't know this and have already started covering the sheathing with a rough layer. What to do - to clean everything and putty again? Not at all necessary. Actually, you only hardened dry plaster, now you need to carefully rub the surface, achieving a certain degree of smoothness.

Application of finishing putty on the walls

The disadvantage of starting mixtures is that, due to their coarse-grained nature, they very quickly give up moisture to drywall, which absorbs it no less actively (if these are not moisture-resistant sheets). And often you simply do not have time to smooth out the raw layer with the rule. Alternatively, it is allowed to use plaster beacons, but in this case the layer of the applied mixture will be too thick. Therefore, if we have already started from the starting point, it is necessary to finish the wall cladding with it gradually, in small sections, and then just go over with a float. It is much easier to work with, it is fine-grained and is applied on a smooth surface in the thinnest layer, while sealing up all even the most inconspicuous grooves. The main thing is, regardless of the mixture chosen, first apply a primer to the skin.

Under no circumstances should you use an outdoor putty for interior decoration, it may contain components necessary for resistance to climatic factors, but harmful to health.

Be sure to pay attention to the main component composition of the mixture, in particular - to the filler included in it. It can be both cement and gypsum, there are also brands with polymer components. It is clear that in rooms where the air humidity is quite high, for example, in the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is best to apply a cement-based finish. Gypsum, on the other hand, is best suited for living quarters, just where wallpaper needs to be glued. However, a primer must also be applied over the putty sheathing in order to increase the adhesion of the adhesive of your choice. Polymer putties are considered versatile, but they are the most expensive of the listed.

They also distinguish between both ready-made and dry mixes. Here too it is necessary to do right choice... The fact is that the dry mixture can be purchased in large quantities, since it is stored for a very long time. This will allow you to avoid the situation when the putty was suddenly not enough, and there was no identical composition in the stores. However, you need to be able to knead it, especially if you have to finish drywall. Too thick consistency will quickly give the sheets of dry plaster moisture and crack, and too liquid will run off with ugly streaks. Ready-made compositions are stored for a very short time, but they have exactly the consistency that is needed to cover walls and partitions made of plasterboard. It is necessary to use such a putty immediately, opening the container immediately before finishing.

The subtleties of filling drywall under the wallpaper - why do you need a lamp?

So, the walls are sheathed, all the necessary building mixtures, including priming compounds, have been purchased, it remains to start finishing the dry plaster sheets. First of all, make sure that you have a serpentine tape, which is made of fiberglass, at your fingertips. You will need it at the stage of covering the seams. First, inspect the joints, and if somewhere you notice that the sheets are not on the same plane, that is, there is a stepped transition, carefully cut with a construction knife at an edge angle to get chamfers. The larger the angle they have, the better you will smooth out the ledges between the sheets. This way, you can create a more beautiful joint by filling the joints with putty.

GKL walls after putty

We pass to the places of fasteners. The screws are usually flush with the drywall, but sometimes in a rush they may not be completely screwed in. To check how well the installation is done, simply run a metal spatula over the caps, pressing the tool firmly to the surface. If you did not hear a metal rattle, and nothing prevented the movement of the spatula, you can start sealing the fasteners, but if you find flaws, you need to screw in the screws deeper. At the same stage, it is advisable to inspect the surface of the dry plaster and carefully clean off accidentally torn off fragments of the cardboard covering from it. If a gypsum layer opens up somewhere - it's not scary, such a site will still be hidden under the building mixture.

Now prime the entire surface. Further, after the composition has dried, apply the first layer of putty and immerse the serpyanka in it along the entire length of each seam, simply applying it to the surface and crushing it into the mixture. Smooth out the composition that has protruded through the mesh tape again. It is best to grab the fastener line with a serpentine so that the mesh lies on top of the screw caps, but this is not critical, you can simply cover each cap separately, especially with a large installation step. Take the mixture on a spatula in small portions and apply in one motion, firmly pressing the tool to the surface at an angle of about 60 degrees... When one stroke is superimposed with an edge on another, sometimes sagging is obtained, it is not necessary to try to level them, they will be removed when grouting.

Now let the already applied mixture dry and then gently go over it with a grater, you can use a thin sandpaper. After achieving smoothness, prime again and wait for the composition to dry. Now you can apply a layer of putty on the entire surface of the drywall using the spatula technique described above. You should start from the corner, and from the very top of it, gradually moving down and to the side. You will get the ideal result if you apply 2 layers of the finishing mixture, and always with a primer between them. Each of the layers, including the primer, must dry well, so this work will take at least 3 days if you manage to finish the entire room at once during the light part of the day. Prime the walls again before gluing the wallpaper.

When finishing drywall with putty, it is highly recommended to use a powerful source of artificial lighting, placing it on the side of the area to be finished. This will allow you to identify all the flaws and eliminate them when grouting the first and applying the second layer.

Before gluing the wallpaper, it is imperative to prepare the walls - prime them and finish with putty. This allows you to achieve the required level of surface smoothness. But what if you are going to glue wallpaper on drywall? Do I need to putty it? The answers are in our article!

Plasterboard walls - are they that smooth?

Regardless of the quality and density of the wall covering, most often the craftsmen are advised to putty drywall before gluing the wallpaper. Although some try to avoid this job. The sheets themselves undergo careful processing, as a result, the surface of the product is really very even, the wall after sheathing with sheets becomes smooth. However, this is clearly not enough for wallpapering.

The seams are of the greatest importance here. No master will be able to perfectly fit two sheets of gypsum board with millimeter precision. In any case, there will be a small difference, and for wallpaper this option is absolutely unacceptable, since after pasting all the seams will clearly stand out against the general background. Another problem that manifests itself after installing drywall is fasteners. Typically, the screw heads will protrude no matter how hard you try. The hat should be flush with the surface of the drywall, but most often it turns out to either drown the screw too much, or tighten it not enough.

If you are making a rounded wall, it is also better to putty drywall under the wallpaper. Indeed, with this installation, the gypsum board bends. The effect is achieved by piercing the drywall with a special roller, after which the holes are thoroughly moistened. As in other cases, regardless of the professionalism of the work performed, the recesses from the holes will be felt under any wallpaper, even the most durable.

Why is wall preparation so important?

As a rule, puttying is used in cases where the walls are characterized by a large number of cracks, protrusions, grooves and other mechanical defects. It should be understood that, despite the thickness and strength of the wallpaper, all the disadvantages that were described above, some time after gluing, will certainly manifest themselves. Therefore, experienced craftsmen recommend without fail to putty plasterboard walls before applying wallpaper to them. It doesn't matter whether you choose non-woven or vinyl wallpaper, the absence of a layer of putty will negatively affect the durability and quality of the paper covering.

A very important point - in the places where the gypsum board is fastened to the frame crate, as well as the seams, small voids are formed, which are filled with air. Even after pasting, the air will not disappear anywhere. Over time, a very unpleasant effect will be observed, when the wallpaper gradually begins to recede in places of accumulation of air masses.

It would seem, why then not apply a layer of putty to those areas that promise the greatest number of problems in the future? Indeed, this will save a lot of time, as well as money for putty. However, there are also some nuances here. First of all, it should be remembered that the surface of the drywall differs in color from the putty. Therefore, the treated areas will stand out clearly after the wallpaper dries. This is especially true for wall coverings in lighter and more soothing shades.

You should also take into account possible future changes in the room. After all, if over time you will no longer like the current wallpaper, or you want to use other materials, for example, the same rolled fiberglass, then the old wallpaper will need to be removed. However, this is a very difficult procedure, since the top layer of drywall will come off along with the wallpaper. Naturally, such deformations of the upper GCR layer have a destructive effect on all of its operational properties.

Here are a few more reasons that will convince you of the need to putty the walls before gluing the wallpaper:

• Putty, especially applied together with a primer, significantly increases the reliability, resistance, and durability of the surface.
• It may well be observed defective sections of the gypsum board, which were obtained either during transportation or during construction work. However, the putty will completely mask any areas that stand out.
• Drywall, as a rule, has a water-repellent surface. The consequence of this is problems with some types of adhesives, which do not fit well enough on a wall sheathed with plasterboard. If you prime and putty the surface, then it will acquire the necessary level of adhesion in order to adhere well and reliably to any glue.

Putty for gypsum board - what is better to use?

So, we came to the conclusion that all the same. Now let's try to determine which formulations are best suited for these purposes. The putty is divided into starting and finishing. Preference should be given to finishing compounds, since the drywall surface initially has the required level of smoothness. If suddenly there was no finishing mixture at hand, then the starting mixture will also suit you. The only difference is that the finishing putty is fine-grained, accordingly, it must be applied in a thin layer, then slightly sanded.

Working with starting putty is associated with some additional work, including subsequent grinding, you will need to achieve the desired degree of evenness and smoothness of the wall. Regardless of the type of composition chosen, drywall must be primed without fail. You can work only with compositions intended for interior decoration. Putty for outdoor use contains many additives that increase resistance to temperature changes and precipitation. However, such additives have a negative impact on human health due to the release of harmful waste into the environment.

When choosing a mixture for processing drywall walls, pay attention to its composition, as well as fillers. Typically, various polymer components, gypsum or cement are used. For ordinary living quarters, gypsum-based putties are suitable. Their cost is somewhat lower. If you are going to use the mixture in rooms with a high level of humidity, then you need to buy a cement-based composition. The cost of the goods in this case will be higher. Polymeric substances are universal, perfect for work in any room, although they are more expensive than all other analogues.

Dry mixes are more popular due to their long term of use - in a dry state, the putty can be stored for a very long time. Difficulties can only lie when mixing a substance with water, because the correct concentration is of great importance. Too liquid mixture is characterized by sagging and spreads over the surface. If you add not enough water, then the putty will begin to crack after drying.

Ready-made formulations can boast that they do not need to be stirred, but you can immediately start working. However, they cannot be stored for a long time, the composition loses all its properties after a few days. It is necessary to apply the putty immediately after opening the container.

How to carry out the work - the subtleties of the process

First, we check how well the fasteners are made, in particular, the screw heads. When filling, it is better to make sure that the screws are below the surface level, rather than stand out above it. To check with a spatula, we run over the drywall, pressing it tightly to the surface. Any changes in the surface level, including screws, you will immediately feel. Such self-tapping screws need to be screwed in deeper, and then proceed to the next step.

Now glue the serpentine damper tape, which is made from fiberglass, to the seams. We prime the gypsum board, apply the first rough layer of putty and glue the tape to the seams, gently pressing it with a little effort. A solution appears through the mesh, which should be carefully spread with a spatula. The appearing nodules should not upset you; after grouting, not a trace will remain of them. After the solution has dried, it needs to be sanded a little with a sandpaper or grater. This is followed by a layer of primer and putty again.

Experts recommend applying two coats of finishing putty for maximum results. Naturally, all work is carried out exclusively after the previous layer of primer or putty has dried. In this regard, it can take a lot of time, usually about three days. You need to putty in good artificial lighting, which is on the side. A powerful lamp is ideal for these purposes. It will allow you to identify possible flaws, as well as instantly correct them.

Wall primer, plaster, putty - basic operations in the process of bringing surfaces to the stage of readiness for further painting or wallpapering. A simplified scheme of work is as follows: plaster, primer after plaster, putty, sanding, coating with paint and varnish or applying wallpaper. Plastering the walls after plastering is considered a finishing preparatory operation.

Even due to the fact that today plastering is provided wide choice materials for interior work and exterior decoration, and having done the work, you can achieve an ideal plane (there is no question whether it is possible to putty the walls, for example, after finishing gypsum plaster, - the procedure is not necessarily included in the order of execution renovation works) - the financial costs for such plastering work are extremely high.

The classification of putty materials was carried out according to several criteria. The sequence of grouping is determined by the key factors and properties of the putty, which combine the mixtures into the following classes:

• Oil and glue. If you need the cheapest mix, the group is right. It is not known whether the prospects for oil solutions will continue, because they are already considered the past century. The main disadvantage is the appearance of yellow spots through the paint layer and wallpaper.

• Gypsum cement. Materials are much more expensive. Designed for a full range of general finishing operations. In products of domestic production, most often, the composition contains more cement than gypsum. According to the cement and gypsum base for the masters, the main purpose of the powder was determined - having covered a layer of plaster with soil, you most likely putty with the composition of the wall for further wallpapering.

• Water-dispersive. Also from the category of gypsum-cement, however, they are necessarily produced in a batch with an aqueous polymer emulsion, respectively, containers are buckets. The advantage is that you do not need to study on the packaging what to do and in what proportion to dilute the putty - the product is already ready for use.

• Acrylic. After puttying with a similar composition, all the advantages of the above groups (except for oil) will appear.

Workflow steps

Surface cleaning

When the walls are putty after the old plaster, the obsolete wallpaper and paint layers must be removed. A special remover helps to eliminate the remnants of unnecessary material. After the manipulations, the walls should dry out - they are left for about a day.

Drying is followed by a thorough visual check: skipped small parts are cleaned with an assembly knife or a thin spatula.

Inspection of the relief

The relief plane is examined with a flashlight, wielding a building rule: it is applied to the surface, the flashlight is shined along the wall. The smallest indentations and protrusions are evident. Rough bumps should be beaten off in place with a plane or a sharp spatula, and the grooves should be marked along the contour with a simple pencil.

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Instrument preparation

Before starting the repair process, the entire set of instruments is scrupulously wiped off with a rag from dust, washed with dishwashing detergent and dried with a thick cloth that does not leave fibers on the objects being wiped. It is worth carefully making sure that there are no residues of the solutions of previous mixes on the mixer from the drill and the mixing container - the lumps of old solutions need to be torn out.

Preparation of the putty mixture

The solution preparation process is not complicated:

1. Running water is collected in the container (the building bucket is filled by a quarter, the usual one by a third).
2. Little by little, dry powder is poured until the tip of the "iceberg" is above the water.
3. Wait up to 30 seconds, until the powder absorbs water and sags: no dry formations should remain.
4. With a quick verified movement using a drill attachment, knead is carried out for 2 minutes. (a drill is preferred, but manual is also acceptable).
5. Expect 30-60 seconds.
6. Re-batch is carried out. The consistency is brought to ideal - the solution is ready.

Under no circumstances should the finished solution be diluted with additional water or dry powder. We'll have to work with what happened. In case of shortcomings, the putty composition will withstand the excess liquid, after hardening there is always the opportunity to walk over the area with an abrasive and finish off where necessary.

Do not forget about the shelf life of the finished solution after kneading: it is better to knead in several portions. Each portion is placed on a wide spatula with a smaller one, calculating the amount that will be needed for one smear.

Terrain leveling

Small grooves and cracks are covered with a medium or wide spatula, based on the size of the defect. Grouting is carried out in wide movements crosswise with the same force to a flat surface without sagging and scuffing.

A common mistake among inexperienced craftsmen is to slowly, pressing, stretch the spatula. Putty of any brand is endowed with a thixotropic characteristic, which leads to a quick correct dispersion with periodic equal force from several sides.

In the video: the process of filling the wall with your own hands.

Hardening of the putty layer

When the putty hardens, it is necessary to use all the precautions as for the hardening of the plaster: through air flows, direct Sun rays, heat waves from a fan heater or hair dryer are absolutely contraindicated. Cracks in the wall as a result of drying are already unpleasant, but the putty layer damaged by improper drying can warp, which will appear only at the stage of wallpapering or painting.

It is necessary to regulate the indoor air circulation, without drafts and temperature jumps. More specifically, you can open room door, however, leave the balcony closed. For the corridor - to allow air to circulate from the living rooms, tightly closing the doors to the street, kitchen and bathroom.

The instructions for use most often indicate the drying time of the coating up to 16 hours, in fact, 10-12 hours. However, it is advisable to grind the layer not earlier than a day has passed: the putty will dry out reliably, harden, and subsequent operations will be easier.

Putty under the wallpaper

For the purpose of further gluing the wallpaper, the putty is carried out initially with a wide spatula, overlapping with each next layer to ¼ of the previous one. The resulting "sausages" are not rubbed. Holding the spatula at an angle of 21-30 °, constant pressure should be observed, which will help to distribute the material in an even layer from 2 to 4 mm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the more this leads to the formation of a thick layer, the more - to a thin one. However, the dependence is typical for variations in the specified degree interval; when going beyond its limits, bumps and breaks are formed on the surface.

The next step is to dry the layer, remove sagging with a jointer with an abrasive and check the smoothness using a building rule and a lantern. The resulting defects are eliminated: protrusions - with an abrasive, grooves - with additional lubrication. It is possible that an inexperienced craftsman can approach the wall up to 5 times until the surface is perfect.

At the end of the manipulations and long solidification, they are passed along the wall with a jointer with a grid of size 80-120 (with an increase in the number of abrasive grain decreases). Initially, the entire surface is worked out in circular swings, after which, loosening the grip, crosswise movements in order to remove the contours of circular manipulations.

Then the wall is checked again with the building rule with a lantern. If there are no lingering reflections from under the rule, the surface is ready, in a day the walls are primed and you can start gluing.

Puttying followed by painting

The technological process is distinguished from puttying followed by gluing wallpaper in one operation: after the final leveling and rubbing with an abrasive material, the wall is covered with finishing plaster. Particular attention is paid to the wall, if it will be painted with enamel, in particular acrylic, then the finishing mixture should be white, durable and specially designed for this purpose.

Grouting occurs with an abrasive with a fine grain of at least 150.

For a mirror-like painting, the wall is, among other things, polished with a rubbing trowel with suede material (felt and felt pieces are not suitable). A used suede cover will not cope with the task - it will have to be changed to a new one. Also, for painting, the wall must be primed in accordance with the instructions on the packaging of the material.

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The nuances of filling corners and slopes

Inexperienced craftsmen are often advised to apply more than the required norm to the corners of the material, followed by rubbing with an abrasive product. But when it is planned to siliconise some area with a gun before puttingtying, physical costs can be reduced, at the same time increasing the effectiveness of the result.

Work execution plan:

1. When the silicone is used up, the tube needs to be unscrewed, remove the remnants and wipe with a rag soaked in vinegar solution.
2. During puttying, the corner is bypassed, leaving it unfilled.
3. The wall is dry - the tube needs to be filled with putty and slowly squeezed into the slot in the corner. It is recommended, if possible, to do the procedure from the bottom up in one approach.
4. Next, work out with an angular spatula, leaning on the surface, similar to plastering on beacons.
5. After drying, the protrusions will need to be removed with an abrasive mesh.

Instead of a silicone tube, you can use a syringe used for baking cakes. With rubber or foam pads and fixing with electrical tape, the confectionery syringe is fixed in the gun like a glove.

At the corners of the slopes, the master works with an angular spatula to choose from any of the methods known to him, knocks down the protrusions with an abrasive mesh, checks the smoothness with the construction rule. There is no significant difference in the process of laying the putty layer on the walls and in the corners, but the corners are difficult to bring to the ideal - a professional will need to approach up to two times.

Tips for puttying masters (2 videos)

What you may need (25 photos)