What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Threaded connections are the most widely used among detachable ones. They come in a wide variety of sizes, screws, bolts and nuts are found in smartphones and in nuclear reactors. Each connection must be tightened with proper torque. Sometimes threads become clogged with dirt or corroded. When trying to unscrew the connection, the maximum force is exceeded and the thread breaks. It also comes to the destruction of the body of fasteners. In order to remove the damaged stud from the housing, various techniques are used.

Features and benefits of cylinder head studs

In any engine, the cylinder head (cylinder head) is attached to the block itself with studs. They are screwed into the block in such a way as to ensure the best and even pressing of the cylinder head against the block. A well-crimped gasket eliminates oil and antifreeze leakage and the penetration of gases from the cylinder into the engine crankcase. Fasteners are made of high quality steel. However, over time, the threads on them can corrode, be clogged with various contaminants. Due to exposure to high temperatures, these impurities are sintered, and the nut "sticks". When you try to unscrew such a stuck nut, when the maximum force is exceeded, either the thread breaks off, or the fasteners break off. In both cases, it is required to replace the broken part.

Before unscrewing, the threads should be abundantly moistened with WD 40 liquid or kerosene. As a last resort, brake fluid will do. If you don't have a special puller at hand, you can unscrew it with a gas wrench. You need to pull smoothly, without jerking. If you cannot unscrew it immediately, apply WD 40 again and wait 5-10 minutes.

After all the connections have been unscrewed, they should be replaced with a new set. The threads can be lubricated with graphite grease - this will help to easily unscrew the parts if necessary. Next, you should install the cylinder head in place and start tightening the nuts according to the diagram from the user manual.

• First, all nuts are tightened to light resistance.
• Using a wrench with a dynamometer, they achieve the passport value of the tightening force.
• In the sequence described in the manual, all nuts are finally tightened.

The nuts can also be lubricated with graphite grease.

How to unscrew the remaining debris

If the hairpin is still broken off - do not despair. To unscrew the broken off part, use several techniques. Some require the use of industrial equipment, while others require fairly simple equipment available for a home craftsman.

How to unscrew a broken hairpin

If there is a fragment left to stick out, then one of the techniques is used:

• They put on a nut of a slightly larger diameter and weld it. Next, you can unscrew the broken hairpin with a key.
• A transverse bar (reinforcement) with a length of 30-40 cm is welded. Using it as a knob, you can unscrew the fragment.
• The top is sharpened with a file under the square. Now the chip can be unscrewed with a tap wrench.

If the scrapping occurred flush with the surface of the cylinder head (or other unit), the fragment will have to be drilled out.

Cover the cylinder head with a thick cloth before drilling to prevent sparks and debris from entering the cylinders.

After passing the hole to the full depth, the remains of the drilled fragment should be unscrewed from it using pliers or needle-nose pliers. Next, it is imperative to go through the hole with a set of standard taps.

Replacing the stud with a repair part with a larger thread

If all of the above activities ended in failure, there is another way to replace. For this, a so-called larger diameter repair pin is taken. In place of the old hole, a new, larger one is drilled. A thread is cut in it with appropriate taps, and a repair pin is screwed in. Of course, you will have to take the corresponding nut for it.

When installing the head, you need to be especially careful not to damage the threads on the new stud - it will enter the hole on the cylinder head with a smaller gap than the standard ones.

Sometimes during the repair of an engine or other mechanism, a situation arises when it is necessary to unscrew the pin. This happens for various reasons, for example: the thread on the stud has been torn off or it is necessary to grind the plane of the crankcase and the studs interfere, in general situations are different. In fact, this work is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. Without certain skills and experience in this matter, you can easily break a hairpin and it will not be "ice". In this article I will try to outline the basic principles, observing which you can unscrew any hairpin with a great deal of success.

So let's start perhaps. Such a situation: we need to unscrew the stud from the crankcase of the Izh Planeta engine, We take two nuts (preferably high), screw one nut onto the stud first, then another, with the help of two keys we clamp (the stronger, the better) the nuts relative to each other, then we put the key on the lower nut and unscrew the pin from the crankcase.

Same.

Now let's imagine a typical situation: you screwed on two nuts, pulled the key, and the hairpin does not "want" to twist (stuck). In this case, you should not apply a lot of effort to the key, since the pins do not "like" the twisting load and burst. To help the hairpin unscrew a little, it must be thoroughly warmed up, by the way I managed to unscrew the hairpin on the cylinder only after heating.

We take a gas burner, and we begin to warm up the hairpin, after warming up, we screw the nuts on it in the same way and unscrew it from the crankcase. In order to protect the crankcase from deformations during local heating, we cover the heating area with a sheet of tin. In the aluminum crankcase, the stud should not be heated too much, since there is a great risk of damage to the crankcase at the point where the stud enters it! If the crankcase is a metal pin, you can warm it even to red, without fear. Usually, after warming up, any even the most "sour" hairpin can be unscrewed without much difficulty.

As I said above, studs do not "like" twisting loads, so it is best to twist long studs using a stud driver. Stud runners come in different sizes, I bought myself for the most popular sizes: 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm. Unfortunately, it is not possible to crawl up everywhere with a hairpin, and this is its only drawback.

We put on the studdriver as close as possible to the place where the studs enter, insert the key and unscrew it.

How to unscrew the hairpin? Consider several methods, taking into account the condition of the stud and the existing tool.

How to unscrew the stud for the threaded part

If the stud is long enough and the threaded part for 2 or more nuts is available, then we use one of the following methods:

• screw on the nut, screw the second all the way into the first (preferably using high nuts), then unscrew the pin with a locksmith tool (wrench, etc.);
• use a special tool - a stud driver, for the stud size or universal.

How to unscrew the stud if only 1 nut thread is available? In this case, at least 4 methods are available:

• cut the nut on one side with a hacksaw for metal (the direction of the cut is along the axis of the threaded part), screw it onto the stud, tighten it with a pipe wrench so that the threaded part, choosing a gap in the cut, tightly grips the stud, direct the force in the direction of unscrewing;
• screw the nut onto the thread, weld it to the stud (for example, with a semiautomatic welding machine) and unscrew it with a wrench (or a head with a knob);
• screw the nut onto the thread, drill a recess in the end of the stud (approximately half the diameter of the pin), drive the TORX nozzle into this recess (E-profile, or another similar one with longitudinal ribs) and unscrew the nozzle by the shank of the nozzle (in this case, you can help with the effort of the second hand with an open-end or box wrench applying a force to the nut in addition to the main force on the torx);

In the method with a screwdriver, a large version or a power version with a T-shaped handle is better suited for this purpose.

How to unscrew a hairpin for a smooth cylindrical part

If only a smooth section of the stud is available (for example, the threaded part is broken off), then the following techniques are applicable;

• clamp the cylindrical part in a suitable tool (in pliers, pipe wrench, small vice, clamp, etc.) and apply force in the direction of unscrewing;
• weld a metal bar to the broken end face by welding as a T-shaped handle;
• put on a nut of a slightly larger diameter, weld to the hairpin in a circle and unscrew it with a wrench;
• use a square washer with a nut or larger thickness, with an inner diameter of the same size as the diameter of the cylindrical part of the pin (ideally, if the washer sits on the cylindrical part of the pin with an interference fit), cut it on one side similar to the nut in the previous subsection, put it on the pin, clamp with a pipe wrench and unscrew;
• use a die (the one used for threading), turning the end of the stud to a square of the desired size;
• use a hairpin;
• with a hacksaw for metal, make a cut at the end under a flat screwdriver, with which to remove the pin.

How to unscrew a broken hairpin

If the hairpin is broken and there is no part protruding above the surface, then you can unscrew it in the following ways:

• using a semiautomatic welding machine, gradually and carefully "build up" a couple of centimeters (if the end of the stud is within the reach of the welding wire) and for this turn out the "build-up" using a clamping tool;
• use a special tool - an extractor (it looks like a tap, the working part is tapered, the direction of the thread is opposite to the thread of the stud): align the protruding end of the stud with a file (or cut it straight off with a hacksaw for metal), tap exactly in the center, drill a hole of the required diameter along the axis of the stud and depth (about 2/3 of the length of the working part of the extractor), insert the extractor and rotate with force until the stud is unscrewed;
• preparation with drilling as in the previous method, only apply a tap to the left thread of the stud (if the stud is in the right direction) - when the tap, cutting the thread, rests against the bottom of the drilled groove in the body of the stud, then the chip is often unscrewed;
• drill out the center of the stud, choosing the diameter in such a way so as not to touch the threaded part of the socket, and then remove the remnants of the stud metal;
• drill out the broken part of the stud and the threaded socket on drilling machine or a hand drill with a larger diameter drill for a repair pin.

The alignment of the end face of the stud can be a problem if the breakage occurs in depth. In this case, the face burr will provide invaluable help.

Another variation for the drilling method. You can use drills with a left direction of rotation and an electric drill with a direction switch and speed control. When drilling at low speeds, the wedged thread is loosened and due to the left rotation of the drill, the remainder of the stud is easily pulled out of place and comes out of the threaded socket.

Drilling is often wiser to do multiple passes, from small drills to larger drills to the correct diameter.

How to unscrew a stuck hairpin

The sour hairpin must be unscrewed with additional tricks, both in terms of instrumentation and in terms of methods.

• apply a few blows with a hammer to the end of the stud along its axis, without damaging the edge of the thread;
• apply several light blows from different sides on the lateral surfaces of the stud (while screwing the nut onto the threaded part to avoid damage), avoiding bending;
• apply special penetrating compounds - WD-40, liquid key and their analogs, giving the necessary time in accordance with the instructions for these drugs from their manufacturer before trying to unscrew;
• use an extension to the hand tool to increase the applied force (a longer wrench or by putting a pipe of a suitable diameter on the rotating end hand tool;
• when unscrewing the welded nut, use not an open-end wrench, but the Super Lock head, in which the force is applied not to the corners (edges), but to the planes;
• instead of applying physical force and a hand tool, use an impact wrench (if it is not in your home workshop, you can contact the nearest tire fitting or car service, delivering there a part with a stuck pin);
• when screwing in two nuts, screw the first one all the way to the stop with such a great effort so that it cuts into the cylindrical part of the stud, and use the second nut not standard, but self-locking (this will allow much more effort to be applied, reducing the risk of idle unscrewing of the nuts);
• Heat several times and allow to cool, at the final stage, heat and unscrew.

When unscrewing a sticky stud for a welded or screwed nut, it is better to use the tool that is structurally stronger and more tightly covers the perimeter of the working surfaces of the nut, excluding the licking of the edges:

• 6-sided head instead of 12-sided;
• Super Lock head instead of the usual one;
• box wrench place open-end;
• a crank instead of a ratchet.

How to unscrew the stud from the exhaust manifold

If the steel pin is stuck in a steel or cast iron collector, then you can heat it until the metal turns red, using a carefully gas cutter, a gas canister, blowtorch or other suitable equipment.

How to unscrew the stud from the exhaust manifold to prevent cracks in the cast iron? First of all, it is impossible to artificially intensively cool the cast iron part. At the same time, you need to heat the collector itself, without touching the stud: the collector will warm up and spread out a little in the area of ​​the threaded hole with a sour stud, and the difference in heating of the parts will further weaken the grip.

How to unscrew a hairpin from an aluminum part

Parts made of aluminum and its alloys should not be intensively exposed to a gas torch and other powerful equipment due to the risk of parts melting or other damage due to high temperatures. In this case, you can:

• you can only heat the hairpin and then not to red;
• use a hot air gun (thermal gun) to heat an aluminum part or use a blowtorch to a limited extent in a more gentle temperature conditions than a gas burner can provide.

How to unscrew the stud from the engine block

First of all, when choosing an approach, one must proceed from the material from which the engine block is made. In the case of a cast iron block, we use an approach with intense heating until reddening with a gas burner. If the block is aluminum, then in the area of ​​the coked hairpin we warm it up gently with a hot air gun, preventing damage to an expensive part from high temperatures.

For example, it is often very difficult to unscrew the stud from the ZMZ 402 engine block. It is distinguished by systemic problems with unscrewing certain pins due to the material of the block and the peculiarities of its heating during operation.

Several heating and gradual cooling cycles will greatly facilitate the unscrewing of the pin from the block 402. Recall that the unscrewing of the pin is carried out in a heated state. It will also be very useful to shock the hairpin - along its axis or loosening with blows on the sides from different sides.

How to unscrew a broken-off hairpin from the block, we have outlined above in a separate subsection, the techniques for this part are not original.

How to unscrew the hairpin from the cylinder head (cylinder head)

When deciding how to unscrew the hairpin from the cylinder head, one must also proceed from the head material. Cast iron heads are rare, mainly on old cars, and most often they are made of aluminum alloys.

On the heads of the block, you often have to deal with stuck, sour pins.

To unscrew the pin from the cylinder head, you can use the most convenient and effective ways and the techniques listed above. Often this is the two nut method, using an extractor, or drilling. To enhance the impact, it is more expedient to use preliminary loosening tapping on the sides, the use of penetrating compounds, rotation with two tools.

Conclusion

Faced with the question of how to unscrew a stud from a block, head, manifold, starter, wheel hub or other part, you can choose an effective solution to the problem from several methods and techniques, taking into account the available tools and means. Locksmith tools available in almost any garage, as well as specialized ones, such as a stud driver, can be used.

Before unscrewing the hairpin, it is worth applying shock to it. Also, if the threaded socket in the part is through, and the end of the stud sticks out, then the visible part of the thread should be cleaned of dirt, which can create additional difficulty when unscrewing. The preliminary application of penetrating compositions also facilitates the extraction operation.

Car repair is far from the easiest process, and it doesn't matter what brand the car is and what year it is manufactured. All machines are subjected to serious stress every day, which means that breakdowns are inevitable. Most of these malfunctions can be easily corrected by an ordinary motorist in a garage, working slowly and carefully. Carelessness in car repairs can often complicate matters.

It so happens that in the process renovation works when tightening or unscrewing bolts and studs, the thread breaks. This is very frustrating, especially if there is no knowledge of how to unscrew a broken stud. This situation baffles any repair. Let's try to figure out how to get out of this unpleasant situation. Often, fasteners break if the master is large in size and has great physical strength, and the hairpin is stuck or rusted to the thread. It is not about those machines that have just rolled off the conveyors. Very often, owners of old cars that were stored and operated carelessly face similar problems. And more specifically, most likely such a machine was stored in places with high levels of humidity. Parts of the running gear - wheel studs, hubs - are in almost constant contact with water. Therefore, it is not surprising that these elements rust. As a result, the owner wonders how to unscrew the broken stud from the hub.

However, fasteners do not twist and break not only due to moisture, but also due to high temperatures. For example, the exhaust manifold can be heated up to 400 degrees. As a result of exposure to high temperatures for a long time, the stud corrodes.

How do studs break?

These fasteners can break in different ways. The most unpleasant situation is when they are cut literally flush. Then the master has to think about how to unscrew the broken hairpin, because in this case it is impossible to do without the use of special tools and technologies.

It is much better if the part breaks already at the exit from the thread, when a small part of its "body" is visible and remains on the surface. In this case, if the bolt has already been torn off, it will turn out, and it can be acted on with pliers, screwdrivers and welding.

Effective Ways to Deal with Broken Bolts and Studs

Professional locksmiths know several effective methods on how to unscrew a broken hairpin. Before starting this business, you need to prepare. These works mean cleaning the surface from dirt and grease. It is recommended to pre-treat the threaded connection with WD-40 or ordinary machine oil. You can also alleviate the situation by hitting the wreck several times with a hammer. Often the problem is solved by heating - a hairpin or bolt, provided that it looks out of the hole, is heated with a soldering iron. Then it can be removed relatively easily.

How to unscrew a hairpin if it breaks above the thread

If in the process it was possible to disrupt the thread at least a little, that is, if the fastener began to turn out, you can try using pliers or pliers. A good and powerful adjustable wrench will also help in this difficult matter. In the second option, you may need a hacksaw for metal or a grinder. Sometimes a chisel will also work - the main thing is not to make excessive efforts. How to unscrew a broken wheel stud in this way? Make a transverse hole for a screwdriver and unscrew the pin with this tool.

If the screwdriver does not help, then you can use the welding machine. This operation is easy enough. A bolt is prepared, the head of which approximately corresponds to the diameter of the stud. Next, the bolt is welded to the debris sticking out of the hole. Then with and without a key extra effort try to unscrew the ill-fated hairpin. Experienced auto mechanics say there are corrosive special adhesives that can be used for cold welding. But they are not always effective.

If the pin breaks below the surface or in the hole

In this situation, you will need a drill, a thin drill for it, as well as good tool skills. Before unscrewing the broken pin from the engine block, drill 2-3 or more thin holes in the body of the pin. Then these holes will have to connect into one single piece. They insert a screwdriver here and try to unscrew the fragments of the bolt.

Left-hand thread in the stud

The second method is more complicated. It is used when it is impossible to turn out a broken hairpin using any of the available methods. In this case, the measures taken will be even more drastic. This method will take an electric drill, a tap, and a lot of time. The first step is to drill a hole in the hairpin - right in the center. Then carefully cut the thread in the hole with a tap.

Note important point: Before unscrewing the broken pin from the head, make sure that the thread is “left”. When a new bolt is screwed into the just cut part, the thread of which is the same, then at the moment when it reaches the end, the broken pin will begin to turn out.

Drilling

And finally, the third and most radical way. It is used to remove broken bolts and pins from the hole. This is drilling. The method is very difficult. It is much more complicated than all of the above and is the most dangerous. There is a risk of damaging the threads in the bore of the engine block or cylinder head. You must hold the drill securely, as if it is a cylinder block, then there is a serious risk of damaging an expensive part. The stud is often made from harder grades of steel, and the head is made from aluminum. The collector body is cast iron, so it is also softer than a steel stud. The drill will definitely go from a hard stud to a softer metal. This happens especially often if the work is carried out in a confined space, and the drill is installed at a slight angle. The principle of drilling is as follows: you need to make a hole strictly in the center of the stud with a thin drill, after having screwed it, then install a thicker one in the drill and repeat the whole procedure.

The main thing here is drilling strictly in the center. When practically nothing remains of the body of the hairpin, the wall will become thin. It can be broken. You should very carefully break the rest of the stud using a pre-sharpened wire or tweezers. It must be remembered that any actions are carried out as slowly and accurately as possible. If you act in the heat of the moment, you will need to think not about how to unscrew the broken block pin, but also about how to restore the cylinder head itself. And these are significant costs.

We use a conductor

Drilling broken studs can be greatly simplified. This is true for those who often repair engines. The simplest conductor will help the master. Part dimensions are taken from real engines. On the conductor, which is a metal plate, the same holes are drilled in the same places as on the head, as well as on the manifold. Holes for bushings are also made in the jig. They will keep the part from moving on the block.

With the help of such devices, you can greatly facilitate the task and figure out how to unscrew a broken stud from the exhaust manifold by drilling without damaging the manifold itself.

Extractors

An extractor is a special device that allows you to remove the remnants of faulty fasteners or unscrew a broken stud. The device is very simple and ingenious at the same time. In order to remove a stuck or broken part, you need to hook it somehow, and then unscrew it. And all this is done very simply. It is required to drill a hole in the center of the pin, wedge a tool in the shape of a cone or cylinder in it, then use this tool to unscrew the bolt. This is the extractor. These devices greatly facilitate the solution of issues such as unscrewing a broken pin from the manifold or from any other place.

There are several types of extractors:

• Wedge-shaped.
• Rod.
• Spiral.
• Screw.

Now these devices can be purchased in kits, but they are on sale and separately. Experts recommend using these tools. They make it much easier to deal with difficult situations such as broken bolts.

Choice of steel for the stud

Often auto mechanics make studs themselves. They recommend making these fasteners from the following steel grades: 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60. If you make a new fastener from this metal, the result will be a product with sufficient tensile strength.
If the studs will be purchased in stores, you should not choose the cheapest or those that you saw on the counter of the auto store. The most reliable products have a part number of 13517010. The penultimate figure indicates that this stud has sufficient tensile strength.

Before screwing in the stud ...

In order not to think about how to unscrew the broken pin later, before getting to work, it is recommended to lubricate the part with graphite, or better, copper grease. Better to let the element unscrew together with the nut than break. Finally, the threads of the nut are also best treated with graphite grease. In the future, this will exclude breakage or breakage of the part.

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How to unscrew a broken hairpin

You will need

• - file;
• - screw;
• - drill;
• - screwdriver;
• - wrench;
• - gimbals or trox;
• - lighter.

Instructions

If the cap of the bolt breaks off, but at least some part remains of it, try to make a groove in it for a screwdriver with a file. Then carefully unscrew the damaged bolt with a suitable screwdriver.

When the cap is completely broken off, you can use professional tools to unscrew such bolts. Purchase special gimbals from an auto parts store. Drill a hole in the bolt corresponding to the size of such a gimbal and screw it in there. Then remove the bolt from the protruding end of the gimbal.

You can pull out the bolt in another way. Drill a hole in it so that only 1-1.5 mm is left to the thread. During drilling, periodically dip the heated drill bit in machine oil. Then carefully pry off the rest of the bolt with any sharp metal object, for example, the same screwdriver. The main thing is to correctly calculate the size of the drill so as not to touch the thread. This option is also suitable when you need to get a split bolt.

If the cap of the bolt is torn off but a threaded debris is sticking out, use the nut to remove it. To do this, select the size of the nut and heat it strongly over the fire. You need to hold it with tweezers or forceps with refractory handles so as not to burn your hands.

After the nut is hot enough, screw it onto the protruding piece of the bolt. Because of high temperature the nut should weld to it. After some time required for the metal to cool down, take a suitable wrench and unscrew the bolt by the nut welded to it.

You can also try to pull out the bolt with an asterisk wrench or, as it is also called, a trox. To do this, you need to drill a hole in the bolt and drive trox into it. When it comes to its full length, unscrew the bolt for it.

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Unscrewing a broken bolt or stud from the cylinder block and other elements: solving the problem

In the process of repairing and maintaining a car, as well as any other equipment, there is often an urgent need to remove individual elements of the internal combustion engine or chassis, body panels, etc. In this case, the removal of the engine components, attachments and suspension is often the most problematic operation. The reason is that the components can be tightened with bolts or studs, and the tightening torque is large enough.

If we add to this the temperature differences in engine compartment, oiling, accumulation of dust, dirt and other deposits, it becomes clear that unscrewing various bolts and other fasteners is not only responsible and time-consuming, but also often challenging task... In this article, we'll talk about what to do if a stud or bolt is broken, and how to remove a broken bolt.

The thread of the bolt is torn off, the hairpin is broken or the bolt in the engine block is broken: how to unscrew

So, bolts and studs often "sour", become covered with rust, can be overtightened or twisted skewed (not along the thread) during previous operations. This is true for all car models and brands without exception.

In any case, a common situation is when, while unscrewing the bolt, the master tore off the thread, broke the pin, broke off the head of the bolt, etc. A situation is also possible when the tightening torque is greatly exceeded when tightening, the bolt bursts, remaining under-tightened. Naturally, the rest of the bolt must be unscrewed, after which the stud or bolt must be replaced.

As a rule, bolts break when the bolt is rusted or stuck, and too much force is applied when loosening. This usually affects used cars or cars that are operated in difficult conditions. Threaded connections often start to create problems as a result of contact with moisture. Such contact is inevitable for the chassis of the car. In the case of the engine, the cylinder head is screwed to the cylinder block, the tightening torque is large.

One way or another, the most problematic situation is that the bolt can be broken flush, that is, unscrew it in the usual way or using simple tools does not seem possible. In other words, the "body" of the bolt does not protrude from the surface. In this case, there are several ways to solve the problem, with the most common being:

• drilling a bolt;
• unscrewing the bolt by welding;

First of all, the choice of this or that method depends on some conditions. If the bolt scrolled before breaking, then the main task is to "bind" to its body, in order to then unscrew the rest. If it is impossible to turn the bolt, then it is necessary to carefully ream the rest of the body in the hole. Let's take a closer look at the available methods.

To begin with, for a successful result, you need to know how to unscrew a torn off bolt, as well as perform a row additional work before twisting.

• At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove dirt, oil residues, rust, etc. from the problem area. Also, be sure to apply on threaded connection a special tool to make the bolts "soggy". Special cleaners can be such a liquid. These are compounds that remove and soften rust, dirt, etc. WD-40 or pure oil is also quite suitable for these purposes.
• Let's go further. If the debris protrudes above the threaded hole, several blows with a hammer can also be made on it, the bolt is additionally heated (for example, using a blowtorch). The only thing is that you can hit the bolt or heat it only if other parts, elements or the threaded hole itself will not suffer from such an impact.

If the thread has been torn off (the bolt is spinning), then the broken bolt is unscrewed with pliers, an adjustable wrench, etc. You can also make a "groove" on the bolt body with a chisel, a hacksaw for metal or a grinder, after which you can try to unscrew the piece with a regular screwdriver.

Also in the wreck, if the body protrudes high enough, a through transverse hole is drilled into which a metal rod, nail, screwdriver, etc. is inserted. Then the resulting lever allows you to twist the piece with the help of improvised tools.

• Often the body of the bolt does not protrude much above the surface, that is, the bolt is broken almost flush. This complicates the process of removing residues from the threaded hole. In this case, welding helps a lot. To accomplish the task, you need to pick up a bolt with a similar diameter with a head, after which you need to weld it using welding machine to the body of the debris in the threaded hole.

Next, you can try to unscrew the chip with the key. It is important to remember that welding can be fragile at the joint, so you should not apply too much effort. We add that in addition to welding, sometimes special types of glue are used for such cases. At the same time, this method is not widespread, since these types of glue are far from always at hand, and also some doubts are caused by the reliability of fixation using such means.

• The most difficult case is considered to be a broken bolt that breaks off, for example, flush with the surface or even below. Often this situation can be encountered when a bolt in the engine block breaks off. In this case, the methods described above do not always work. To solve the problem, you need to know how to unscrew the debris from the hole, drill a bolt from the car engine block, etc.

First of all, you need to prepare a drill and a set with fine drills. Please note that such work is not recommended without certain skills. The main challenge is to drill a few small holes in the bolt body. This is done so that then it becomes possible to connect these small holes into one large one. Next, a screwdriver is inserted into the hole, after which the fragments are unscrewed.

More in a difficult way is the left-hand threading in the body of the broken bolt. In this case, you need a drill and a tap. First, a hole is drilled in the body of the debris, then a left-hand thread is cut with a tap. Then another bolt is screwed into this thread. After such a bolt is screwed in to the end, the debris should begin to unscrew from the hole.

The last in an accessible way Removing a debris from a bolt that has broken in a threaded hole is considered drilling. The method is quite complicated and requires special skills. The main goal is not to damage the thread of the hole itself when drilling out the debris.

To drill a piece, first a hole is made in its center with a thin drill. Then the drill is changed to a thicker one, etc. After the body walls of the broken bolt are as thin as possible, try to break them with metal wire or tweezers. The debris is then removed from the hole. This method If implemented correctly, it eliminates the need to cut a new thread in a hole or restore an existing one.

Let's summarize

As you can see, there are several ways to unscrew a broken bolt or stud. In this case, in each case, it is necessary to separately take into account in advance the nature of the breakage of the body, the very location of the fragment, the possibility of access to the problem area, possible consequences heating the remnants of the bolt, etc.

Finally, we note that before unscrewing the bolts, it is advisable to carry out processing before starting the procedure to remove dirt and soften rust. Moreover, if the various standard methods of unscrewing do not give the desired result (the bolt does not go), then it is optimal not to make great efforts so as not to break the stud.

The same can be said for tightening studs or bolts. The fact is that you need to tighten the fasteners with a strictly defined effort and in the specified order (for example, tightening the cylinder head). Ignoring this rule often leads to the fact that pins or bolts break, stretch, deform, etc.

In the event of such problems, it is better to contact experienced specialists who, in many cases, will unscrew the problematic torn off or sour bolt. If it is not possible to avoid breaking the bolt, then qualified craftsmen will remove the remnants from the hole with minimal risks, and, if necessary, restore the damaged thread.

krutimotor.ru

Tool for drilling broken pins.

Most drivers who repair their cars on their own are faced with the need to drill out a broken stud, such as an exhaust manifold. After all, the exhaust manifold mounting studs break easily, since they work in difficult conditions - the exhaust manifold temperature reaches 400 degrees. And from constant heating and cooling, the stud material corrodes, and the corrosion products work no worse than good glue, tightly gripping the threaded connection of the nut and stud. In addition, the metal of the stud becomes brittle and often breaks off. This article will describe how to drill a broken-off pin, and how to make a simple device to facilitate drilling in a hard-to-reach place - a simple jig.

An experienced car owner always tries to prevent the process of souring nuts and studs, for example by ordering taller stainless steel or brass nuts that cover all the threads on the stud. And some screw cap nuts, which are already on sale now. In addition, the threads are lubricated with graphite grease, which reduces the risk of sticking and sticking of the fastener threads.

And before unscrewing the nut, it is recommended to moisten the threaded connection with a penetrating liquid, for example, the common "Vedashka" (WD 40), possibly brake fluid, kerosene, diesel fuel, or at least vinegar. If this does not help to unscrew the stuck nut, then it is advisable to heat it with a small gas burner, or at least with a hot air gun.

But all the same, the heating temperature of the collector and the exhaust pipe does its job, and the metal of the stud, with prolonged operation in conditions of high temperature and vibrations, changes its properties, and not for the better. Microcracks appear in the body of the hairpin, and as a result, without even pressing the wrench hard, the nut does not even think to turn away, and the hairpin is easily “cut off”.

When even one, well, or several of the exhaust manifold studs are broken off, the leakage of the joint between the manifold and the head, or the joint between the manifold and the exhaust pipe, is accompanied not only by loud exhaust, but also by an unpleasant smell, and can even lead to a fire. And as a rule, replacing the gaskets with new ones will not help, you need to carefully drill out the broken-off pin, "drive out" the thread with a tap, and screw in a new pin.

In practice, this is not as easy to do as in words, especially in an inconvenient (hard-to-reach) place when the motor is on the car. Naturally, when the engine is removed for repair, everything is much easier, but more often you have to wield a drill in a very uncomfortable position under the hood (when the engine is in place).

Before drilling out the broken-off pin, you should try to attach a suitable nut to the remainder of the pin, and try to weld this nut to the body of the broken-off pin. It is naturally more convenient to cook with a semiautomatic device, and not with an electrode. And the risk of sticking the body of the pin to the aluminum body of the head or to the cast-iron body of the collector (there are also cast-iron heads) is minimal, since aluminum or cast iron is not welded with a steel wire of a semiautomatic device in this case. After welding the nut, it is unscrewed with a wrench together with the stud, and this is often possible, since the heated stud usually turns off and unscrews.

But it happens that it is very inconvenient (little space) to make a high-quality tack weld, then you can try another method, using a special tool - a set of gimbals, as in the photo on the left. Such kits are already easy to find on the market. From the set, a gimlet suitable for the diameter is selected, a hole is drilled in the hairpin, for the gimlet to enter and it is screwed into the stud hole.

Its thread is left, that is, it must be twisted counterclockwise, and the hairpin is also unscrewed to the left. When deepening, the cone of the gimlet deepens and there comes a moment when it does not allow to deepen further drilled hole... At this moment, a piece of the hairpin begins to unscrew.

However, even this tool often fails to unscrew the fragment of the collector pin. Since the temperature and corrosion have done their job and the piece of the hairpin literally grows together with the body of the head or bottom of the collector. And the metal of the gimlet is hard, but brittle enough, and it can break. This leads to more big problems, since it will not work to drill out the hard steel of a gimlet fragment with a conventional drill. In this case, the winning drill helped me, but there was a lot of fuss.

Since when drilling a piece of a gimlet, the drill will definitely go away from the center. Whatever this happens, you need to use the conductor, which is described below.

The most reliable way is to drill out the rest of the stud, and then drive the thread with a tap. It is very important that the drill does not go to the side during drilling, because the stud is made of harder steel, and the head body is made of softer aluminum (the cast iron collector body is also softer than the steel stud, if you drill a broken hairpin at the junction of the collector bottom and outlet pipes).

And the drill always leads away from the stud into a softer metal, especially if you drill in a confined space and drill at a slight angle. Naturally, you need to try to keep the drill strictly perpendicular to the plane being drilled. There are masters with a good eye and normally doing this kind of work without any tools.

To do this, first the center of the pin is located, it is well pored with a core, and then first a guide hole is drilled with a small drill of 3 - 4 mm for a thicker five millimeter drill, and then a 6.5 mm drill is used. Drilling with a drill of this diameter is sufficient for further removal with an awl, or a sharpened screwdriver, of the remainder of the 8 mm stud. Or simply the thread is driven with an M8 tap and the rest of the stud turns into shavings.

A device installed on the pins for precise drilling of a piece of a pin. 1 - base plate, 2 - conductor fastening nut, 3 - long sleeve for a drill, 4 - a full standard stud, 5 - short sleeve for studs.

But to simplify the operation of accurately drilling broken pins, especially for those craftsmen who are constantly engaged in repairs, a simple device (conductor), for example, such as in the figure on the left, will help. The dimensions of this jig, shown in the drawings below, are calculated for accurate drilling of the studs that connect the lower part of the Zhiguli manifold to the exhaust pipe.

But a similar jig can be made for drilling the pins that connect the manifold to the engine head, and for any machine. You just need to accurately measure the distance between the studs of your particular engine, and then drill holes for bushings 3 and 5 at the same distance.

You don't even have to measure the distance between the pins with a measuring tool, but simply attach a sheet of cardboard to the pins and gently tap the cardboard on the pins with a hammer. An exact replica of the location of your particular studs will be provided.

Then, having cut out the holes for the studs in the cardboard template, put the template on the studs, and tap with a hammer in the area of ​​the stud fragment and thus determine the place for the long sleeve 3. And according to this cardboard template, plate 1 (base) is cut out of sheet steel, 12 mm thick , in which holes are drilled for bushings 3 and 5 (according to the template).

Guide bushings are inserted into the holes of the plate, which are turned on lathe according to the drawing on the left. Moreover, short bushings 5, with an inner hole diameter of 8.1 mm, are intended for non-broken pins, and a longer bushing 3 (with an inner diameter of 6.5 mm) is inserted into the plate where the broken-off pin is. And if the broken hairpin protrudes strongly outward, then its protruding part must be grinded off.

By the way, having ordered four short bushings 5 ​​and one long bushing 3 to the turner, you can later use them for other plates (devices of a different shape), since the bushings are easily removed from one plate and rearranged onto another.

The plate (base) is pressed against the plane of the manifold (or the plane of the engine head, if the plate will be made for drilling the head studs) using high nuts 2.

All parts except bushing 3 can be made from any steel you find. But the sleeve 3, in which the drill will work, and which does not allow the drill to go to the side, should be carved out of strong alloy steel (at least St 45, 50) and hardened. Otherwise, a sleeve made of ordinary steel will not last for a long time and its inner hole will quickly wear out.

When grinding a new hairpin instead of a broken one, you should know that it is undesirable to grind it out of any available steel. For example, the most affordable steel St.3 has a tensile strength of 39 - 49 kgf / mm², and this strength is not enough for the manufacture of exhaust manifold studs. More durable steel grades St.35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60 (according to GOST 1050 - 88) are suitable for studs.

Having made a new hairpin from one of the steels listed above, its tensile strength will be sufficient, in the range from 50 to 80 kgf / mm². If you buy, and not order the turner new factory studs, then do not take the first ones on the counter, but only those that have normal packaging with the part number - 13517010. The penultimate digit 1 in this number indicates the breaking strength of the stud within 50 - 80 kgf / mm².

When screwing a new stud into the head or collector body, lubricate its threads with graphite or copper grease, even if it is better later, when trying to unscrew the nut, the stud will be unscrewed together with the nut, which will break off. Well, before screwing the nut onto the stud, of course, we also lubricate the thread of the nut with "graphite".

Having made such a device for drilling broken off collector pins and not only for it, you will greatly simplify and speed up the operation to remove the stud fragment (especially if you are doing repairs professionally), and the risk of damage to the head body or collector during drilling will be reduced to zero, success to everyone.

suvorov-castom.ru

Car owners often face a problem such as a broken bolt. And it makes no difference whether this car is Russian or foreign. All machines are subject to stress and break down over time.

And when you start repairing your car, a new problem may appear - a broken bolt. And now it's bad luck, how to unscrew it and throw it out? After all, you need to unscrew the broken bolt as soon as possible and continue the repair.

Why does the bolt break?

The bolt breaks due to the fact that it is either rusted or stuck. The more years the car is, the more "bad" bolts and, the more difficult it will be to repair the car. Most often, old cars have rusty bolts due to the fact that they are often in contact with moisture.

Long use of the machine will wear out all parts and bolts. For example, the chassis of a car is constantly in contact with moisture. Therefore, do not be surprised that something rusted somewhere.

The best ways to remove bolts

In order to proceed to the very unscrewing of the bolts, you must first do preparatory work, or rather - cleaning the place of work from all dirt and dust. And in this we will be helped by the irreplaceable "Vedashka" (WD-40), well, or you can use machine oil.

In case none of this is there - just hit the bolt with a hammer or heat it up. But be careful, you must not damage other items.

What if the bolt breaks above the threaded surface?

Let's consider several options for solving the problem:

You can try unscrewing the bolt with pliers if you manage to "rip" the thread of the bolt a little;

The next method involves using a hacksaw for metal, a grinder or a chisel. The principle of operation is as follows - make a transverse hole for a screwdriver, then use the screwdriver itself to unscrew the bolt.

The third option will be associated with the use of a welding machine. Adhere to the following instructions: take a similar bolt in size and weld it to the broken one. Use a wrench to loosen the bolt, but do not overwork. You can use glue instead of welding, but there is a chance that the job will not get done, so use welding for reliability.

Bolt breaks off flush with or below the surface

If you do not know exactly how your bolt broke, then look on the Internet for photos of broken bolts and determine which one is similar to yours. Consider solutions on how to properly unscrew a broken bolt:

Take a drill with a thin drill bit and drill two to three or more thin holes in the bolt body. This is done in order to combine them later. Insert a screwdriver into the hole and unscrew the fragment of the bolt.

The second way involves more drastic measures. You will need: a drill, a tap, experience and a lot of patience. Do the following: drill a hole in the center of the bolt itself. Then you need to carefully cut a left-hand thread in it.

The moment you screw a new bolt with a left-hand thread into the made thread, then, as soon as you reach the end, the old bolt should begin to unscrew.

Bolt broke flush with the surface

Be careful, there is a chance of damaging the threads. Instructions for loosening the bolts without damaging the threads:

• Drill a hole in the center (use a thin drill);
• Replace the thin drill with a thick one and drill more;
• When the base of the bolt is almost gone, and the walls become very thin, then try to break the remnants of the thread. Use a thin sharpened wire or tweezers for this.
• If you have done everything correctly, then you will not have to cut new threads or "drive" the old one.
• If you have an "extractor" with a left-hand thread, then you can use it. Unscrew the rest of the debris.

If you cannot unscrew the broken bolt in any way, and even no way helped, leave this problem. It is better to trust a person who has already faced such problems and knows from experience how and what to do.

Note!

In any case, do not complicate your work and do not act rashly, this will entail other problems. We hope this article was helpful to you.

Note!

Note!