What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

It is important to properly equip the rough ceiling. There are different coatings that are different from each other. It all depends on what type of floor is used in the building.

A few words about wooden floors

Overlapping in wooden house made of beams. That is why it is important to equip a rough ceiling in these rooms. It allows you to form the ceiling slab surface. Then the finish will be done on top of it.

How to arrange a rough ceiling correctly

First of all, you should find out what you want to get. The costs depend on this.

To arrange a rough ceiling:

• From below, a special material for vapor barrier is targeted at the beams.
• Then edged boards are stuffed onto it.
• After that, the material for the vapor barrier is re-laid.
• Further, if there is a second floor, make its floor. For this, edged boards are used.
• A layer of a decorative type is made from the bars. It is placed at the bottom.

Draft ceiling wooden beams- the basis for the formation of a layer of hydro-, thermal insulation, filing, widely used, as a rule, in private and country houses... In apartments, the use of this method is irrelevant, since they have a concrete ceiling, and wooden beams are an element of decor.
All the nuances regarding the rough ceiling on wooden beams will be discussed in this article.

How to hem a rough ceiling in a wooden house

This process can be carried out using almost any starting material. The simplest and effective option- lining. If you want the smell of wood to stay in the room, then it is worth filing the ceiling with a planed board.
Asking the question "How to hem the ceiling on wooden beams", you can as additional options consider plywood, plastic, chipboard, and resin-free materials are best used in bath rooms.

There are 2 ways to carry out this process.

The first way

Planking the ceiling with a board on wooden beams is carried out after thermal insulation and the formation of condensation. The insulation is fixed between the beams. The most the best option mineral wool is considered for this role.
After that, the wooden blocks are attached to the beams with nails.
Then the flooring is formed from the boards. To do this, they (boards) are adjusted to a certain size with a small indent of a few millimeters. And only after that is the filing of the rough ceiling made on wooden beams. Boards must be fixed as close as possible to each other or at a distance that does not exceed 30-40 cm.
If in the future the ceiling made of wood is processed with heavy clay with an antique imitation, then the slats should be connected using the checkerboard method.
After that, the made rough ceiling can be taken as a basis and carry out the basic construction processes. For example, to form a stretch ceiling.

Second way

To implement this method, two people are required.
The boards do not need to be corrected or cut in any way, they are all served immediately under the logs, on the side of the building. The distance from the wall and the beam placed on it should be 50 mm, then the boards are fixed to each other with a metal plate. A wooden rail (mauerlat) is laid under them, and already under it from three sides it is fixed with strips of roofing material. On the fourth side, the materials are fed, so here the installation of a beam with a wooden lath is made at the very end.
As a result of either of the two methods, you will get a structure where a small hole will remain at the edge. To remove it, you need to use a wooden batten of the required length and fix it to the beam.

It is very important to remember that the device of the rough ceiling is made taking into account certain details that allow you to save the original ceiling timber, wood and speed up the installation process:

• it is necessary to select boards for the length of the room so that there is no waste
• it is better to immediately expose all wooden slats to outside wall, from where it will be convenient for one person to feed this material to another, laying it from inside the building on the opposite wall
• after the necessary correction, the slats can be fixed to the beams using two self-tapping screws so that those (slats) can hold a person. This speeds up the process, as one contractor can feed and the other fixes the timber.
• if the rail is less than the declared length, then it is cut with a jigsaw at the level of the last beam
• if the rail is longer than necessary, then it is not fixed to the extreme beam
• there is no point in thermal insulation of the rough ceiling if there is a heated room on top
• when forming a vapor barrier, it is worth especially focusing on the corners, thereby preventing the appearance of rot and mold. In the places where the fixtures are fixed, it is better to hem in advance a heat-reflecting foil 20x20 cm in size.
• the insulation must be laid in full accordance with the instructions; the location of the built-in light sources must be taken into account in advance. It is safest to pre-cut holes with a diameter of 20 cm around them to prevent the possibility of ignition of the insulation from the heat source.

It is likely that those who are conducting for the first time this process, questions may arise. They can be sent in the form of a consultation to a competent specialist who can explain and clarify incomprehensible moments of the repair process. Sometimes this is even necessary, since only an outside professional look from the outside will help to take into account everything important nuances created interior and style.
To select the source materials, the quality of which there is no doubt, you need to analyze the existing customer reviews in advance or send this question to a knowledgeable specialist.
This article allows you to understand how to make a rough ceiling yourself, without resorting to third-party help. By following all the instructions, you can prepare a wooden base with sufficient quality, on which in the future it will be possible to form any ceiling in a private house, adding to it the uniqueness of the design.

The structure of the ceiling in a wooden house is most often a kind of "pie" of two outer layers of cladding, fixed on the beams of the attic floor, between which one of the types of insulation is laid. Topics not less, besides this system, there are other ceiling designs.

How to make a ceiling in a wooden house correctly in order to avoid heat leakage from the premises and prevent cold air from entering from the attic? This question arises before every owner of such buildings. In addition, at least important point is and interior decoration ceiling, since the appearance of the entire interior will depend on its appearance. Therefore, you need to consider whether the surface will be additionally sheathed with decorative material.

But first, you need to consider in detail the basic structure, its installation, as well as all the materials necessary for it.

Attic floor and ceiling construction

Any wooden structure is covered with beams, which are the basis for covering the ceiling and floor of the attic or the second floor of the building. There are three main ceiling designs - hemmed, panel and floor.

False ceiling

The scheme of the hemmed structure is as follows:

1 - hemmed ceiling boards;

2 - floor beam;

3 - knurled sheathing;

4 - insulation material;

5 - vapor barrier film.

• It is most convenient to carry out installation, starting with fixing the vapor barrier film on the floor beams from the side of the premises. It is stretched and nailed to the beams with staples using a stapler. The vapor barrier canvases overlap each other by 100 ÷ 150 mm and, after fixing on the beams, are glued together using waterproof construction tape.

The vapor barrier can also be laid after the bottom filing is completed, then the film will cover not only the boards fixed from the bottom, but also the floor beams. This is especially convenient if fine-grained expanded clay will be used as a heater. If this option is chosen for insulation flooring, then it is carried out from the side of the attic.

• On top of the film, ceiling boards are mounted. Often, instead of boards, particle boards (chipboard or better - OSB) or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm are used.

The filing is chosen depending on what kind of decorative ceiling covering should be fixed on top of it. It should be noted that when choosing decorative finishing in the form of a wooden lining, and it is used for hemming the ceiling, without preliminary installation of sheet material or boards.

• Further, the work is carried out from the side of the attic, but before they are carried out, it is necessary to take care of safety. Since it is in no case to step on the filing boards, you need to lay a temporary boardwalk perpendicular to the floor beams and you can walk only on it during work, periodically shifting it to the required distance.
• Between the floor beams, insulation is laid or poured onto a vapor barrier film. The choice of this material will be discussed below.

• If a roll insulation made in mats or backfill is chosen, then it is recommended to also cover it from above with a waterproofing film, which can be used as dense polyethylene or roofing material. It is fixed with brackets to the floor beams.
• On top of the insulation and waterproofing, a rolling sheathing is laid, which will serve as the floor of the attic.

Another way of installing all the components is to carry out the entire process from the attic, but it is not only uncomfortable, but also extremely dangerous, since To If this method of work is chosen, then a temporary boardwalk of durable thick boards that can withstand the weight of the master must also be laid.

Deck ceiling

A false ceiling differs from a hemmed ceiling when installing the floor beams of a room. If the rooms are small, no more than 2500 mm wide, and each of them will overlap separately, then such a ceiling design is quite suitable for its device.

• In this case, the ceiling boards are fixed on the load-bearing walls of the building or on a bar nailed to the walls along the perimeter of the room at a distance of 120 ÷ 150 mm from their top.
• Planks for a flat ceiling must be chosen thick enough - at least 50 mm, since insulation and parts that form the attic floor will be mounted on them.

It should be borne in mind that if the boards will be installed on a beam, then it is recommended to lay it on brackets driven into the wall, made of reinforcing rods, and additionally fix it with nails or self-tapping screws.

It is advisable to choose a lining for the flooring, which is connected using special grooves.

• Further, from the side of the attic, the boards are covered with a vapor barrier.
• On top of the film, an insulating material is laid, which is closed with a waterproofing film, fixed on the walls with brackets.
• Then, on another row of the fixed timber or on the load-bearing walls, the boardwalk is laid - the attic floor.

Panel ceiling

This ceiling is made up of individual panels that are combined into one structure. Most often, panels made on the floor are lifted and stacked on load-bearing beams, and then connected to each other.

Each of the panels consists of the following elements:

• A box or shield made of two beams and planks.

The beam is installed as a lag, at such a distance from each other that the internal distance between them is 600 mm. This width is considered optimal, since most of the insulation made in mats have it.

• Then a vapor barrier film is laid in the resulting box.
• Insulation is laid on top of it, which is covered with waterproofing on top. It is fixed to the side bars.

In this form, the panel rises onto the floor beams. If ready-made blocks do small size, then it will be easy to raise them to a height, and there it will already be combined into an integral structure with an upper plank sheathing.

• When fastening individual panels from the side of the beams, an insulating material should be laid between them to close the "bridges" of cold penetration.

It should be noted that some craftsmen prefer to assemble panels at a height, immediately along the entire length or width of the room, since it is not possible to lift it entirely due to the rather large weight.

Do you want to know more about the ceiling construction?

Thermal insulation materials for ceiling insulation

It is very important to choose the right insulation material, since not only the warmth in the house, but also the safety of the residents will depend on this. If the wood can be processed by yourself impregnated fire retardants, then, when choosing a heater, you need to immediately pay attention to the marking according to its flammability class, which should be placed on the package.

Criterias of choice

When purchasing insulation material, you need to focus on the following criteria:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Moderate density.
• Low hygroscopicity, i.e. the material should absorb moisture to a minimum.
• Minimum flammability, which is indicated on the package in letters and numbers:

- NG - non-combustible material;

- G 1 - low flammability;

- G 2 - moderate flammability;

- G 3 - medium flammability;

- G 4 - strong flammability.

• It is equally important to pay attention to the ability to smoke formation when the insulation is smoldering, as smoke can be as dangerous as fire. This parameter is designated from D1 to D3, respectively - low, medium and high smoke formation.
• Another parameter related to fire safety is flame spread. RP 1 ÷ RP4. The speed of propagation of fire is classified according to the same principle as the first two parameters - from low (1) to high (4).
• The ecological purity of the insulation - it should not immediately or over time release fumes that are dangerous to humans into the environment.
• Ease and speed of installation.

The durability of the material without losing its performance.

Soundproof properties - ability suppress external noises (for example, the sounds of heavy rain or hail knocking on the roof), keep the house quiet.

The table shows the main physical and technical parameters of the most used heaters:

It makes sense in the article to consider additional characteristics, the most popular of the heaters presented in the table.

Types of mineral wool

One of the most popular heaters, and I must say that deservedly, is mineral wool. Under this term, several materials are broken that are made from various natural raw materials, therefore specifications may vary somewhat:

table comparative characteristics varieties mineral wool.

Stone wool

Stone wool is made from rocks gabbro-basalt groups and marls. Such material has low thermal conductivity, therefore it perfectly retains heat inside the premises. The fibrous structure of the insulation, in principle, can withstand heating at 900 ÷ 1000 degrees, but at a temperature of 600 degrees, the material is sintered and loses its heat-insulating properties.

A very important quality for the installation of this type of cotton wool is the absence of prickly brittle fibers - the material is practically safe for the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract and eyes, for the skin.

This type of insulation can be called "breathable", so the air in the premises will not be heavy and stagnant.

Stone wool does not emit toxic substances, therefore it is safe for humans.

It is produced in various forms, convenient for installation work, and recently a material has appeared that has an additional foil coating, which helps to reflect heat rising to the ceiling into the room.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made from broken glass and sand, by melting them with high temperatures reaching 1500 degrees. As a result technological process fibers with a length of up to 50 mm and a thickness of 4 ÷ 15 microns are obtained, which make the material strong and elastic.

Installation carried out in accordance with all the rules will allow you to preserve the insulation without losing its qualities for many years. Glass wool is not susceptible to damage by fungal formations, they do not build rodent nests in it, it has low thermal conductivity and can withstand low and high temperatures.

The disadvantages of this type of mineral wool include the fact that its installation makes it difficult for the brittleness of fibers, which have rather sharp edges. Their fragments tend to penetrate under the fabric of clothing, stick into the skin, enter the respiratory tract and mucous membranes of the eyes. Therefore, starting to installation works, you need to protect yourself by putting on protective uniforms, which, after the completion of the warming process, must be packaged and disposed of.

Slag

This type of insulation is made from blast-furnace slag, but is capable of withstanding temperatures reaching only up to 300 degrees without loss of quality, while glass and stone wool can withstand higher heating. When this temperature is exceeded, the slag fibers are sintered, respectively, losing their insulation functions.

Slag wool is hygroscopic, and with increasing humidity in environment it easily absorbs it, which leads to a decrease in insulation and sound insulation qualities.

Installation of slag wool must also be carried out extremely carefully, since its fibers are also splits and can harm the skin and mucous membranes. Therefore, before installation, prepare suitable work clothing and protective equipment for the eyes and respiratory tract.

Styrofoam types

Many owners prefer to save money, and therefore they insulate their houses with the well-known polystyrene foam (more often it is called polystyrene). However, before purchasing it, you must definitely familiarize yourself with the characteristics, since the material has an abundance of significant drawbacks.

There are two types of expanded polystyrene - extruded and regular. Although they are, in principle, made from the same starting polymer, they have slightly different characteristics.

Plain foam

Ordinary foamed polystyrene (foam) has a rather porous structure, since it consists mainly of air, and only 2 ÷ 3% falls on the polymer component.

The positive qualities of this type of insulation include:

• Foam plastic has low thermal conductivity, the coefficient of which is only 0.03-0.04 W / m × ° C.
• The material has good sound insulation properties.
• Polyfoam almost does not absorb moisture, which means that it is protected from the appearance of fungus and other forms of microbiological life.
• The insulation is easy to install, as it is easy to process, fit, and fasten. In addition, the material is produced in large panels that can immediately cover a large area of ​​the insulated surface.
• Polyfoam is not afraid of the effects of gypsum and lime, cement and salts, as well as coloring compositions on water based.
• The negative qualities of regular and extruded foam are quite similar, so they can be combined.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The extruded foam is marked with the letters EPPS and XPS. It has a denser and more homogeneous structure, therefore its thermal conductivity is slightly higher than that of expanded polystyrene. The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

• Very low hygroscopicity, even bordering on hydrophobicity.
• Quite low thermal conductivity, amounting to 0.05 ÷ 0.07 W / m × ° C.
• Ease of installation on interfloor ceilings due to its low weight. In addition, most of the manufactured panels have a special locking part, which makes it possible to easily combine them into a single coating with seams blocked from cold bridges.
• Resistance to deformation - the material is so strong that it is used for underground insulation of foundations or laid under a concrete screed.
• Resistance to chemicals inorganic origin.
• Durability in operation at correct installation and subsequent lining of insulation.
• If the extruded polystyrene foam has received good external protection, then it is non-toxic, so how does it not decompose and does not emit harmful substances.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene inherent in both types include:

• Sufficiently high flammability of the material. Both types are marked G4 or G 3. Often there is no marking on the packaging that gives information about its characteristics, and it is recommended to immediately refuse to buy such a material - it is possible that it has not undergone appropriate processing and may ignite from a lower heat than the manufactured one in the factory.
• The material does not like high temperatures - already at + 75 - 80 ° WITH the beginning of thermal deformation is not excluded.
• When ignited, expanded polystyrene begins to melt, acquires fluidity, thereby spreading fire to neighboring materials. This is especially dangerous when installing it on the ceiling.

• The smoke of burning foam is extremely dangerous not only for health, but also for human life, as it contains highly toxic substances that can cause extensive chemical burns of the respiratory system, lead to damage to the central nervous system.
• After a certain time, low-quality polystyrene foam itself begins to decompose, emitting harmful toxic substances that can penetrate the decorative sheathing and even through brickwork walls.
• Expanded polystyrene is extremely unstable when exposed to ultraviolet rays, so it cannot be kept in the open sun for a long time or without external finishing.
• This insulation dissolves on contact with organic compounds such as ethyl alcohol, turpentine, gasoline, acetone and others.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is made from clay of fusible rocks - it is molded and fired at very high temperatures, more than 1000 degrees. The main advantage of this insulation is its environmental friendliness, since no foreign impurities are used in its production.

Expanded clay is used to insulate different parts of the house, including the ceiling. It is often used in combination with other insulation materials to enhance the heat preservation effect and protect living quarters from external noise.

Expanded clay is produced in different fractions - it can be granules of 20 ÷ 40, 10 ÷ 20 mm in size, finer gravel or even sand. Rejected granules, which cracked during firing, are usually ground into sand.

In addition to environmental friendliness, expanded clay has other positive qualities that can be indispensable for insulating a ceiling in a wooden house:

Its complete incombustibility will make the insulation safe, low thermal conductivity and porous structure will create reliable protection against cold and external noise penetration into the house. Although expanded clay is somewhat hygroscopic, it will not absorb moisture unless exposed to spilled water. This means that even high atmospheric humidity will not be able to reduce its thermal insulation qualities.

Due to the same qualities, the material is durable, its service life is practically unlimited. And one more important advantage - insects will never settle in this material.

The porous structure makes the insulation lightweight - it is easy to lift it attic floor... In addition, it is extremely easy to install - you just need to sprinkle it on the prepared surface and distribute it evenly over it. The preparation of the overlap for backfill is also simple - it is covered with a vapor barrier film or well coated with clay or lime mortar. When the solution is dry, you can start backfilling expanded clay.

If the winter temperatures of the region where the insulated building is located are very low, then mineral wool mats can be additionally laid on the expanded clay poured between the ceiling beams.

Video: how to insulate the ceiling on your own

After completing the installation of the ceiling, and reliably insulating it, you can proceed to the decorative design of the very front surface of the ceiling.

Ceiling decoration

Wooden ceiling can be decorated with the most different materials... The finishing process facilitates the pliability of the wood - any brackets for installing panels or drywall can be fixed on it without any problems, as well as shingles for applying, for example, a clay layer, and then plaster.

Clapboard sheathing

Some home owners prefer to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard in combination with walls. Such cladding can be made of natural wood, or the same from polymers or composites - PVC, laminated panels based on fiberboard, etc.

The ceiling cladding should not be too heavy, therefore, if a wooden lining is chosen, then a thickness of no more than 10 ÷ 15 mm, intended specifically for the ceiling. It is recommended to cover the panels before installation, and after installation - with water-based varnish or water-based paint.

The plastic lining itself is lightweight, and is designed for installation on the ceiling, so you only have to choose the color of the material.

Laminated panels are also lightweight and will not create problems during installation. They are produced with various patterns that can imitate the textured pattern of wood or stone.

• The assembly of these materials takes place, in principle, according to the same technology. The only question to be solved is how the finishing material will be mounted: directly on the ceiling boards or on the fixed crate.

The latter option is usually chosen in cases where the goal is set - additionally or to level its surface.

• The lathing can also be mounted in different ways - it is screwed directly to the ceiling surface or lowered by 100 ÷ 150 mm, fixing guides made of beams or metal profiles to the suspensions for fixing drywall.

Parallel lathing guides are fixed with a step of 500 ÷ 600 mm. After completing their installation, proceed to the installation of the lining.

• On the wooden lathing, the finish is fixed with the help of special clamps, which are put on the lining spikes, and then attached to the guides with studs or thin self-tapping screws.

• Installation of lining panels starts from the wall, and it is very important to set the first one as evenly as possible, since both fit and appearance of the entire resulting coverage.

• If not a timber is used for the lathing, but a metal profile, then the panels are attached to it using self-tapping screws screwed through the clamps or directly through the lining spike.

After finishing the walls and ceilings, at the junction of the finishing materials, which will give the entire cladding completeness.

Sheathing with sheet material

Plasterboard and plywood (or OSB) can be attributed to the sheet material that enhances the surface of the ceiling. They, like the lining, can be fixed to the lathing or directly to the hemmed ceiling.

Both plywood and drywall are mounted for additional finishing:

• Plywood is first putty at the joints - for this, a special wood putty is selected (if for painting, then it is better -) - and let it dry. Then primed and coated with water-based paint or varnish.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, real or false beams are mounted below the plywood ceiling. For them, light, well-dried wood or hollow polymer elements are selected.

• Drywall after fixing also spattered at the joints and in the places where the screws are screwed in, but for this, a gypsum-based mixture is used. Then the seams are cleaned, the surface is primed and painted, pasted over with ordinary or liquid wallpaper.

The use of these materials in a suspended structure allows you to make two- and even three-tiered, and not only with regular rectangular details, , but also with smooth curved shapes.

Video: how it is sheathed with drywall wooden ceiling

Facing ceiling tiles

• Decorated with a wooden ceiling and polystyrene foam tiles, which are glued to a special polymer glue, applied dotted around the edges. This type of tiles is very lightweight, and they easily stick to a flat ceiling.

Plates are produced in a variety of ways - with a smooth white surface, with an embossed pattern or applied to a texture that imitates a particular material (wood or finishing stone), and can also have a relief that repeats the ceiling stucco molding.

Video, finishing the ceiling with polystyrene tiles

• In addition, ceiling tiles are made of PVC - they are also mounted on polymer glue. This finish is also lightweight and easy to install.
• Wooden finishing panels are quite expensive. But if they are the ones who are able to transform the interior, then it is worth installing them, especially since options with a variety of embossed patterns and shades are on sale. Wooden slabs are fixed with self-tapping screws, the head of which is recessed into the thickness of the material, and the holes are then sealed with masking chops matched to color.

Today there are no special problems with the acquisition of any vending material for finishing the ceiling. wooden house... It is important to compose correctly sketch of the interior that I would like to receive, indicate on it where and what kind of finishing material will be located. Then, it remains to visit a specialized store, inquire about the assortment and pick everything up, relying on a personally drawn up project. After that, you can proceed to, which will allow you to hide small flaws made during the installation of the ceiling structure itself.

Upon completion of the main work related to the construction country house, its walls and ceiling have an unfinished look and need preliminary preparation for their subsequent finishing. Regarding the preparation, it should be said that the technique of its arrangement is individual for different categories of residential buildings and should be considered, separately for each of possible options building structures.

Based on the foregoing, it follows that before making such a ceiling , you must first familiarize yourself with the technique of its manufacture for different types structures such as permanent structures with concrete slabs or structures with timber beams.

In addition, one should take into account the fact that the order of arrangement of any structures also depends on the material used as a decorative finish.

Concrete slab preparation

When conducting overhaul old housing (and often when preparing in a new house), first of all, you should clean the surface from extraneous layers up to concrete slabs... At the same time, all irregularities on the surface of these plates are removed with a spatula, and the seams formed at the places of their joining are also cleaned. Ceilings in houses of old buildings are preliminarily washed out of whitewash or cleaned of paint layers.

In some cases, you have to completely remove the worn out layer of plaster, but in any case, you will have to get a relatively flat surface on which you can subsequently apply or mount a decorative coating of the type of your choice.

All subsequent preparatory operations are carried out, as a rule, in the following order:

• first of all, the previously cleared joints of the slabs are sealed, which is necessary for reliable sound insulation of the room;
• after this, the surface of these slabs is closed with a layer of primer, and then leveled with a starting putty, which eliminates all small irregularities on it;
• at the final stage preparatory work the surface is treated with a finishing putty, after which it is thoroughly cleaned with an abrasive cloth.

Arrangement of wooden floors

It is not difficult to prepare a rough ceiling in a house with wooden beams on your own. All work on its arrangement, as a rule, is carried out in the following sequence:

• first of all, the supporting beams are closed from the side of the room with glassine or plastic wrap used as a vapor barrier (they are attached to the beams with a stapler);
• immediately after this, the beams are hemmed with any material suitable for this purpose ( edged board, for example);
• after that, a layer of thermal insulation is placed in the space between the beams, the function of which can be performed by slabs of mineral wool or foam;
• on top of the insulation, another layer of polyethylene film is placed, used as waterproofing (stacked with an overlap of about 20 cm).

At the final stage of the construction work, pre-prepared logs are laid directly on the beams, and then the floor covering of the attic is laid.

Note that filing on wooden beams, as well as the formation of a multi-layer pie of overlap, are made taking into account the purpose of the attic space. Small design deviations from the above scheme will be observed if it is used as an attic, for example, or when arranging a so-called "cold" attic.

But in any case of using the under-roof space, the lining boards are attached to the logs with the help of long nails driven into the space and with a minimum gap.

Various designs of ceiling slabs in this case can be reduced to the following options:

Alternative hardwood flooring

It is known that the height of the ceilings in wooden houses is usually not enough for the living conditions in them to be considered normal. In such a situation, filing along the bottom of wooden beams seems uneconomical in terms of using a floor structure to increase living space.

In this case, the option of filing boards not from below, but along the top of the beams using special lathing... Such a solution, of course, will radically change the appearance by using protruding beams as design elements of the room.

Video

More details about the ceiling device in the video:

A rough ceiling in wooden houses is an important element of a reliable and high-quality finish. Special attention should be paid to its arrangement, then it will look attractive and will last for many years. To make a rough ceiling finish with your own hands, you need to have minimal skills in performing construction work.

If floor slabs are laid between floors in houses built of brick or concrete, beams are used in wooden buildings. It is to them that the elements of the draft ceiling are attached. It does not take a lot of effort, time and finances to complete this work.

Features of the device of interfloor ceilings

Before, how to make a black ceiling, in order to obtain a high-quality result, you should figure out what constitutes an interfloor overlap in wooden building... It consists of several layers and each performs a specific function. Provided that all the elements are assembled correctly, the ceiling will be reliable and will last for a long period.

The intermediate floor in the basic version has 5 layers:

1. Plank floor... If there is another floor on top, you also need to lay the floor for it. The plank layer is rough, for finishing, it can be used as a final option.
2. Vapor barrier... Despite the fact that some owners do not make this layer, it is advisable to lay a vapor barrier material to obtain a high-quality result.
3. Insulation... The creation of thermal insulation is necessary in order to keep warm in the house. This is especially important when an unheated one is located above the floor. attic or roof.
4. Waterproofing... This layer is needed to protect the wood from damage caused by moisture.
5. Rough ceiling in a wooden house... It is used to attach the finish. It is also a support for waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier.

Exists different variants finishing the ceiling. The most popular is the use of gypsum plasterboards. For their fastening, a metal frame is assembled. This method finishing is practical, easy to implement and inexpensive. The result is great if done correctly.

To equip a rough ceiling on wooden beams, boards are first attached to them, then insulation and waterproofing are laid, and then all that remains is to finish the ceiling surface with plasterboard or other material.

When the ceiling is ready, then you can proceed with the flooring. floor covering on the floor above, for which a vapor barrier is laid on the insulation, and boards are placed on top of it. Many homeowners, after fixing these lumber, do not further finish the finish, thereby using them for finishing. The plank ceiling in a wooden structure also looks very nice and impressive.

Tools and building materials

To build rough ceilings in a private house, you can use a 25 mm board. It is fixed with "vraskos" nails or 45-55 mm self-tapping screws are used. These fasteners are able to securely hold the structure.

Boards under the finishing will not be visible, so their appearance does not matter and you can save on this material. The main requirement for the board: it must be strong and even. If it is placed on top of the beams, the cranial beams must also be available.

Another option can be used, which requires strong plywood sheets. For their fastening, a frame is assembled from rails or bars.

A good way to create thermal insulation is to use 50% sawdust and mineral wool each. First you need to pour sawdust, and lay mineral wool on top of them. The result is a heat insulator that perfectly retains heat in the house, where the ceiling is built on wooden floors.

To date, there is a large assortment of heaters on sale for use in residential premises, and in addition, you can choose any materials at your discretion. Since the board is attached directly to the beams, it is more convenient to use. There will be no need to spend money, time and effort on the construction of the lathing.

From the tools you should prepare:

• saw or jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• stapler.

Rough ceiling from planks on wooden beams

There is a certain sequence of actions in how to properly hem the ceiling with a board, which assumes the presence of two stages:

1. The boards are fixed on the logs by nailing or twisting with self-tapping screws.
2. Insulation and waterproofing are laid on top of them.

When doing the work, you need to saw off all the boards to the required size so that after their installation there are no cracks and gaps in the ceiling surface. This stage should be approached with great care. Only through serious preparation can you build quality ceiling, with which there will be no problems for a long period.

There is such an option as to hem the ceiling with a board in a private house, placing it below the lags. It is simple and practical. By applying it, you can build a ceiling as quickly as possible, and every home craftsman can cope with this work with the desire and appropriate skills. This design has a drawback. Since the overlap will cover the beams, it will not be possible to get to them easily and quickly if necessary.

But there is another way of attaching the boards, which is more complex implementation - in this case, they are placed on top of the beams:

• first, cranial bars are fixed on the lags;
• then boards are laid on them;
• then the thermal insulation is mounted and vapor barrier, while they can be placed both under and on top of the boards.

Usually this option is used when it is planned to use beams as a decorative element, as a result of which they remain in sight after the completion of the arrangement. interfloor overlap... This method allows you to create textured interior that looks stylish and effective.

Draft plywood ceiling

Plywood is considered an ideal material for making a rough ceiling with beams. With its help, it will be easy to make a base for placing the cake from an insulating, waterproofing, vapor-permeable layer.

When the ceiling is lined with plywood along the beams, a minimum of mechanical and thermal stress is placed on its sheets. For such work, the dimensions of the material used must correspond to the inter-girder distance.

The sequence of manufacturing this type of rough ceiling:

• if necessary, a rack frame is assembled and fixed on wooden beams from below;
• cut sheets of material 4-6 millimeters thick are hemmed to the crate;
• soundproofing and heat-shielding mats, waterproofing films are placed on plywood.

The work on the arrangement of the rough ceiling is carried out so as to further use the lattice frame and beams as a basis for the installation of finishing plasterboard panels.

The thickness of the plywood is selected taking into account the load on the ceiling surface. The fact is that plywood filing in a wooden household is capable of performing not only an auxiliary, but also a basic function. Excellent finishing material for lining ceilings are laminated panels with a section of 10 - 20 millimeters.

Further decoration of the ceiling surface

When the rough ceiling is ready, proceed to fine finish... When using drywall sheets, it is enough to make a metal frame and fix them. There are other options for finishing the ceiling surface.

If a rough ceiling is created on wooden beams under a stretch canvas, you should approach the work thoroughly, since haste in this case is unacceptable, especially when there is not enough experience.