What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Strip foundation: formwork, do it yourself, photo, video, instruction. In this article, we'll talk about how to make the right and quick do-it-yourself formwork for a strip foundation. A correctly calculated and constructed foundation is the key to durable and safe operation of any building and structure. There are a certain number of types of foundation, but the most demanded of all will undoubtedly be tape. No additional equipment is required for its manufacture. Everyone is able to build a strip foundation with their own hands: step-by-step instruction on its construction will help in this matter.

DIY strip foundation

Advantages and disadvantages of the tape type foundation

It got its name because it looks like a reinforced concrete tape buried in the ground. External and interior walls the structures with their entire lower plane rest on the surface of this tape. By the type of deepening into the ground, the strip type of foundation is deepened (from 1.45 to 1.65 m) and with shallow deepening (less than 1.4 m). The first type is being built for large structures and multi-storey buildings, and the second for low-rise buildings. In structure, it can be monolithic and prefabricated. Monolithic is poured from concrete mortar, and precast is made from separate reinforced concrete blocks.

An example of arranging a strip foundation for a house from a wooden frame

For the construction of a monolithic foundation, the following materials can be used:

Portland cement;
sand;
crushed stone;
fragmentation rock;
broken brick;
steel reinforcement;
water.

The need for these materials can be pre-calculated using a concrete strip foundation calculator or manually.

An example of a strip foundation with shallow deepening

The strip foundation has a number of advantages that make it truly popular among all other types of bases:

weak susceptibility to heavy loads;
simple construction without the use of heavy technical means;
structural reliability;
the possibility of building on soils of heterogeneous density;
the walls of the structure can simultaneously serve as walls in the basement of the house.

He also has disadvantages:

a lot of materials are needed for construction;
waterproofing work is required.

For the construction of the strip foundation, wooden formwork, steel reinforcement, concrete are used

With all its advantages and disadvantages, this type of foundation is widespread, especially in private construction.

Helpful advice! In order to calculate the required amount of mortar, calculators for calculating concrete on a strip foundation have long been invented. It is enough to enter the parameters of the trench in them in order to obtain complete information about the amount of required materials. Using these services, you can also calculate the cost of the foundation.

DIY strip foundation: step by step instructions

Due to the fact that for construction there is no need to use heavy Technical equipment, everyone can build a strip foundation with their own hands: step-by-step instructions for the implementation of work include several independent stages.

Detailed diagram of the construction of the strip foundation

Preparation for work and marking on site

Before proceeding with the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to make a leveling of the area and mark the axes. Layout means leveling the entire construction site in height. If the difference in height on the site is significant, then this circumstance must be taken into account when digging a trench. In higher places, you will have to dig deeper, but in lower places, the height of the foundation will be greater.

Step 1: Leveling the construction site and marking in place

The axes are marked using a triangle with sides 3: 4: 5. The corners should be straight, and all the diagonals should be equal.

Excavation

This is digging a trench to the required depth along the axes of the marking. Its depth depends on the density of the soil, the distance to groundwater, the weight of the building being erected. For multi-storey buildings- this is 1.5 m, and for private houses 1 m is enough if the soil allows. After the end of the trench digging, tamping and drainage with a layer of sand and crushed stone is carried out at its bottom. This is called a pillow. The width of the trench depends on the type of materials from which the walls will be made. For private houses, 60 cm is enough.

Step 2: terrain planning and digging a trench

Making a formwork for a strip foundation with your own hands

When the trench is ready, they begin to build the formwork. Some construction companies have in their arsenal prefabricated reusable formwork, which is very convenient to use. Do-it-yourself formwork for the strip foundation can also be made. This will require lumber: bars and tes. Its quantity must be calculated individually.

Step 3: After finishing digging the trench formwork begins

The formwork looks like a wooden box installed over the entire trench. Since a liquid solution will be poured there, tightness must be observed. If this cannot be achieved only with the help of boards, then you can sheathe the formwork inside with roofing material. The structure must be rigid enough to withstand the pressure of the poured concrete. For this, the walls of the formwork are fastened together with jumpers every 2 - 3 meters. As you can see, creating a formwork for a strip foundation with your own hands is not so difficult.

Step 4: Create the formwork for the strip foundation with your own hands

Helpful advice! In order for the lumber used in the manufacture of the formwork to be reused, it must be designed so that the boards are not damaged during disassembly.

What brand of concrete is used for the strip foundation

Before you start pouring a monolith, you need to ask yourself: what brand of concrete is most optimal for a strip foundation. This parameter depends on several factors:

the weight of the entire structure;
the presence of additional loads on the base;
what kind of reinforcement is used;
type of soil;
climatic conditions of the area.

Step 5: preparation cement mortar for strip foundations using a concrete mixer

For the device of a concrete cushion under the main foundation, the M100 brand will be enough. For light structures: panel houses, baths and outbuildings, the M200 is suitable. Construction wooden house or a light block structure requires the use of the M250 grade. For massive structures and buildings, high-quality concrete of the M350 brand is prepared, with a strength of 327 kg / cm². Higher grades of concrete are used for the construction of geometrically complex structures and on construction sites in regions with a harsh climate. Knowing these characteristics, everyone can determine for himself what brand of concrete is needed for the strip foundation.

Laying reinforcement and pouring the foundation

Having decided on the brand of concrete, you need to prepare everything you need for pouring. Some people order ready-made concrete from specialized firms. Most people prepare their own solution. For this, it is advisable to have a concrete mixer. All components are mixed in it. Their proportion depends on which brand of concrete was chosen for the strip foundation.

Step 6: Reinforcement of the strip foundation

At the bottom of the trench along the entire perimeter is laid steel structure welded from rebar rods. The more such rods are used and the thicker they are, the stronger the entire foundation will be.

The prepared concrete is poured into the trench and formwork to the level mark and leveled so that its surface is strictly horizontal and even.

Step 7: Pouring the prepared concrete into the strip foundation trench

Helpful advice! When pouring foundations of a large volume, it is necessary to use special vibrators that are buried in the concrete. They expel air bubbles, making the monolith more uniform and durable.

Step 8: Securing the foundation waterproofing with coating materials

After the foundation is completely ready, it is necessary to provide waterproofing of its walls with coating materials. A properly executed foundation will give a long and reliable operation of any object.

Formwork serves as a form for pouring concrete when creating monolithic structures. The main document that should be followed during installation, transportation, storage, acceptance and testing of formwork elements is GOST R 52085-2003. Basic definitions are given in GOST R 52086-2003. Before making the foundation formwork, you need to familiarize yourself with these standards.

According to clause 4 of GOST R 52085-2003, there are many types of formwork, which are distinguished depending on the design, materials, turnover and the possibility of using at different outdoor temperatures and the nature of the action on concrete. When building a foundation in accordance with GOST R 52086-2003, the following types are used for the foundation, depending on the turnover (the possibility of re-use):

inventory, this includes removable formwork, which can be disassembled after the structure has hardened and reused;
one-time use, this group includes non-removable forms that, after the foundation has been set, are not dismantled, but remain, performing a heat-insulating, waterproofing or decorative function, or removable, which after one use are unsuitable for further use.

Formwork can be made from various materials:

metal;
wood;
plastic;
expanded polystyrene;
foam concrete.

The first material is used for the manufacture of removable forms, and the second for non-removable ones. In addition to products from the above materials, combined types are used.

Wooden formwork

The manufacture of wooden formwork does not require serious preparation. Another advantage of the method is the availability of raw materials for making molds. To get the job done correctly, you need to know the basic installation diagrams. All schemes can be conventionally divided into two groups:

using the walls of the strip foundation trench as a mold for concreting;
installation of shields - vertical walls of the form on spacers.

The first option is used for solid soils. In this case, the walls of the trench for filling are dug up vertically. The second method is used if the soil creates the likelihood of collapse of the walls of the trench. In this case, the soil is worked out to a width 2 times greater than the width of the tape, and the walls are dug out inclined. This is done for site safety reasons.

As a material for the manufacture of shields, you can use:

wooden boards;
moisture resistant plywood;

Important! For formwork made of fiberboard and chipboard, reinforcement with a frame made of timber or boards is required.

The basic requirements for a mold are as follows:

tightness;
strength;
rigidity;
the minimum width of the boards for the manufacture of boards is 15 cm;
the optimal thickness of the boards to ensure strength is 40 mm;
coniferous boards are best suited for manufacturing;
the maximum size of the gaps between the boards is 2 mm;
the maximum deviation in the arrangement of panels is 2 mm for each meter of length for a plywood deck and 3 mm for a plank deck.

1 - sand cushion, 2 - waterproofing, 3 - boards made of boards, 4 - retaining stakes, 5 - concrete pouring level, 6 - top ties, 7 - string (cord), 8 - spacers.

A small-panel removable mold made of boards and preparation for pouring the foundation when using the walls of the trench as a mold consists of the following elements:

sand cushion at the bottom of the trench 20-30 cm thick;
footing;
waterproofing (you can use thick plastic wrap);
a deck made of boards (plywood), which is removed from the ground surface 5-7 cm above the design level of the top of the foundation pouring;
stakes that are driven into the ground at a distance of 100-120 cm from the walls of the trench with a step of no more than 100 cm and hold the shields in the design position;
wooden lintels along the upper edge of the boards, fastening them together, are installed with a step of 50-100 cm;
cut-off edge strings that allow you to control the fill level concrete mix in the form;
braces that hold the deck shields and stakes, driven into the ground, to each other, and ensure the stability of the form.

After the fragments of soil, sand of a medium or coarse fraction is poured onto the bottom of the trench and tamped. In order to properly make the formwork, you first need to install the shields on the edge of the trench, drive the stakes into the ground and fasten the deck with them using braces. Next, the reinforcement cage is laid, vertical lintels are installed along the upper edge of the deck, the waterproofing film is fixed, the edges of which should be folded along the upper edge of the deck and fixed with a construction stapler.

1 - sand cushion, 2 - waterproofing, 3 - deck made of boards or plywood, 4 - retaining stakes, 5 - concrete pouring level, 6 - top ties, 7 - string (cord), 8 - spacers, 9 - nails, screws, 10 - plastic disc dowel, 11 - self-tapping screw, 12 - insulation (extruded polystyrene foam).

The elements that were present in the previous type are also suitable for this method of manufacturing formwork, you will additionally need:

nails 20 cm long for attaching the insulation to the ground;
front dowels, which will ensure reliable bonding of thermal insulation to concrete;
self-tapping screws that attach the upper edges of the insulation to the lintels along the top of the deck;
insulation plates.

Advice! As thermal insulation, it is correct to use a material that is resistant to decay, damage by microorganisms, mechanical stress and moisture. Of all the variety thermal insulation materials on construction market all these requirements are simultaneously satisfied by only one - extruded polystyrene foam (EPS).

The work begins with fragments of a trench and laying a sand cushion on its bottom. The bulk material is compacted and the assembly of the formwork panels is started. The work is carried out in the same way as in the previous case, with the difference that before laying the reinforcement cage, you need to fix the insulation. Before installing expanded polystyrene, you need to insert dowels (plastic with a wide head) into the plates, which with their tip should be turned into the trench. After pouring, they will enter the concrete and reliably fasten the insulation and the foundation together. Penoplex is attached to the walls of the trench with nails or self-tapping screws. In conclusion, the upper jumpers and insulation to them are fixed with self-tapping screws. To simplify the process of dismantling the formwork, these screws should be easy to remove.

This method of creating a form can be called combined. Here, removable formwork made of wood and fixed formwork made of expanded polystyrene are used at the same time. The option is best suited for those who need insulation to prevent frost heaving.

Sloped Trench Formwork

1 - sand cushion, 2 - reinforcement anchor, 3 - bottom struts, 4 - nut and washer, 5 - hairpin, 7 - string (cord), 8 - top ties, 9 - deck made of plywood or boards, 10 - reinforcing ribs from the boards. 11 - upper struts, 12 - retaining stakes.

Before starting work, a trench is dug twice as wide as the foundation in the upper part. The slope of the walls must comply with the safety requirements for the type of soil on construction site... The formwork elements are as follows:

sand preparation;
concrete pad for strengthening and leveling the base;
spacers at the bottom of the trench;
threaded plates or bars for installing the tube under the stud;
a hairpin for screed formwork panels in the lower and upper parts between each other, installed in a plastic tube;
casting control strings;
jumpers along the edge of the boards with a pitch of 50-100 mm;
plywood sheets or boards from boards;
frame for fastening formwork panels;
braces holding the stakes and shields together, keeping the latter in an upright position;
stakes driven into the ground at a distance of 1 m from the slope of the trench to fix the formwork.

Fixed formwork

Nowadays, the use of fixed formwork made of expanded polystyrene has become popular to reduce costs. This option will allow you to simultaneously insulate the foundation and fill it. The form represents ready-made blocks, which already have transverse lintels and reinforcement for fastening the shields to each other. To ensure the ease of connecting the elements to each other, grooves are provided, thanks to which the formwork is assembled as a constructor. Products can be made of polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Better to choose the second option. It is more expensive, but more resistant to moisture and stress. Plastbau-3 became one of the most widespread technologies using this form.

The following can be cited as more durable materials for creating a non-removable structure:

arbolite (wood-concrete panels and blocks);
foam concrete.

These materials cannot boast of the same thermal insulation characteristics as expanded polystyrene, but they are more durable and can reduce concrete consumption.

In general, the choice of the type of formwork depends on:

type of foundation (shallow, buried) and climatic region;
soil characteristics at the construction site;
available materials.

Around any building, or rather along its perimeter, a blind area must be set up. This coating protects the building from the destructive effects of melt and sedimentary water, which can erode the soil under the base of the house and lead to its subsidence, as well as destroy the base structure. This important protective element around the house is made of concrete or asphalt concrete. In order to complete the blind area, you need to erect the formwork. At first glance, this is not difficult to do, but there are some nuances that must be observed in order for the blind area to have the correct slope from the walls of the building. In our article, we will tell you how to make formwork around the house.

Features and functions of the blind area

Externally, the blind area looks like an ordinary concrete or asphalt path, which is tightly adjacent to the walls of the building and encircles it around the perimeter. The width of this coating is normalized by SNiP and can be at least 1 m. It should be remembered that the outer edge of the blind area should protrude beyond the boundaries of the roof overhang by at least 200-300 mm.

Important: the installation of this protective coating is carried out after finishing facade work has been done on the house.

The blind area performs several functions at once:

When snow melts or rain falls, precipitation can be absorbed into the ground near the house and cause the destruction of the foundation structures or flooding of the basement. Much more precipitation collects around the house, as it actively flows from the roof of the building and its walls.
Thanks to the blind area, the soil around the building does not freeze to such a great depth as in places of open soil. Thanks to this, the basement or basement room becomes warmer, which affects the temperature throughout the house.
In addition, frozen soil can also adversely affect the base structure. This path near the building protects building construction from the forces of frost heaving, which can lead to movement of the base and cracking of the walls of the building.
The presence of a neat blind area around the house increases its aesthetic qualities.

The following materials can be used for this coating:

Concrete is most often used, since it is the most affordable material that you can prepare yourself. To pour concrete, you need to properly equip the formwork. That is why in our article we will look at the intricacies of this process.
You can also make a blind area from paving slabs.
Around large public, apartment buildings and shopping centers, the blind area is made of asphalt.

Rules for the execution of formwork and blind area

Before getting down to work and starting to make the formwork near the house with your own hands, you should remember a few simple rules that will allow you to do everything at the highest level:

If the work will be carried out in hot weather, then the surface of the formwork and concrete (after pouring it) must be periodically moistened with water. Due to this, dried wood will not absorb moisture from the concrete, thereby reducing its strength. Wetting and covering the concrete pavement in the first few days after pouring will avoid too rapid and uneven evaporation of moisture, which can lead to surface cracking.
In order to correctly determine the width of the blind area, the slope, the depth of its laying and design, it is important to take into account the geological and climatic features of the construction area. Observing this rule, you will make a high-quality and durable blind area.
It is better to arrange this covering around the building before the onset of cold weather.
This protective concrete product should enclose the entire house in a continuous strip. That is, there should be no breaks and areas of unprotected soil in the coating. Otherwise, through such uncoated gaps, water will easily seep into the ground and cause the destruction of the base structure.
An expansion joint is necessarily made between the blind area and the basement of the house, since these structural parts cannot be connected to each other. The width of the temperature gap is 2 cm. The seam must be closed with a sealant so that water does not seep into it.
The slope of the coating should be at least 10 ppm from the walls of the house, that is, 1 cm of slope per meter of width.

Necessary materials

unedged or edged board;
panel formwork can be made of chipboard (chipboard);
moisture-resistant plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) is also suitable for these purposes;
some types of formwork that take serious loads are made of steel and aluminum alloys;
permanent formwork is made of expanded polystyrene reinforced with fiber additives.

To perform the formwork of the blind area, an unedged board or plywood sawn with strips is suitable. Since the poured concrete can slightly expand the formwork structures, bars with a section of 30x30 are used as supports and a supporting frame, from which a solid structure is made.

Important: for the manufacture of a protective coating around the house, removable formwork is usually used, which is dismantled after the concrete has hardened.

It is equally important to correctly determine the material for making the blind area. The covering can be made of compacted crushed stone, but in this case it is necessary to equip a good drain from the roof so that the flowing precipitation does not erode the fragile crushed stone coating.

Slightly better and more durable than crushed stone coatings, there will be a blind area made of cement mortar laid on top of compacted crushed stone. This option provides better protection of the base of the house from destruction by melt and sedimentary waters. And it is this option for arranging the blind area that provides for the formwork.

A more expensive and high-quality version of the blind area is laying monolithic concrete slabs or reinforced slab products. But such materials cannot be used on heaving and clayey soils, as well as at high GWL, since the structure can quickly deform.

If executed concrete blind area you will need the following tools and materials to work:

crushed stone, sand and cement;
polyurethane sealant for sealing expansion joints between the coating and the house;
reinforcing mesh;
nails, screws;
roofing material or plastic wrap;
edged (unedged) boards or plywood strips along the height of the poured coating;
level, rule;
spatula, bayonet shovel;
container for mixing concrete.

Formwork technology

After you decide on the material for making the blind area, calculate its width and the required slope, you can start working:

First of all, it is necessary to mark the future coverage around the house. To do this, the estimated distance recede from the walls, pegs are hammered in the corners and the fishing line or cord is pulled.
After that, within the marking along the perimeter of the building, a fertile soil layer 20 cm thick is removed. The soil at the bottom of the resulting depression is carefully leveled and rammed.
Now they start assembling the formwork. First, a frame is made from a bar. For this, bars with a height slightly higher than the thickness of the coating to be performed are fixed at the corners of the recess in the soil. Further, along the stretched fishing line, the same bars are installed with a step of 50-100 cm. For greater rigidity, the bars are fastened together with longitudinal bars. Wooden elements are connected with nails or self-tapping screws.
After that, we attach unedged or edged board so that the timber is on the outside of the structure, that is, on the side of the concrete pouring there is a solid flat surface of the boards. We fasten the boards to the frame with nails.

Attention: to prevent concrete from seeping between the boards, the gaps between adjacent elements should not be more than 0.3 cm.

So that after pouring the concrete, the formwork structure does not burst and deform, oblique spacers are attached to the frame from the outside. The installation step of such spacers is 50 cm. We attach the spacers to the frame bars using self-tapping screws or nails.
To make it easier to remove the formwork after pouring and hardening of concrete, its inner surface can be covered with a dense polyethylene film or one layer of roofing material. This material will perform other additional functions:
- will not allow moisture from the concrete to be absorbed into the formwork boards, thereby reducing the strength of the concrete coating;
- in the presence of significant gaps between the formwork boards (especially in the case of using unedged boards) the coating will prevent the concrete from flowing into the cracks.

Along the walls of the house, it is necessary to install an edged board with a thickness of 2 cm and a height slightly higher than the height of the covering in this place. It is not necessary to firmly fix the board, since after the concrete hardens, it will be removed. With the help of this board, we will create the required temperature gap between the coating and the walls of the house.

Performing coverage

After the formwork is assembled, you can start making the concrete cover around the house. In this case, the following sequence of actions is adhered to:

First, a sand cushion with a height of 10 cm is made. The sand layer is leveled, moistened with water and rammed.
After that, a layer of crushed stone with a height of 10-15 cm is made. It is also carefully rammed. At the same time, one should not forget about the necessary slope of the blind area from the walls of the building, therefore, already at the stage of performing the crushed stone pillow, you can take care of creating a slope.
A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the crushed stone.
Now you can start pouring the concrete solution. You can use a factory mix or make your own.

Important: in order for the coating to have a sufficiently high strength and not to crack over time, concrete must be poured at one time, without long interruptions in work.

The mortar to be poured must be thick enough to be applied in a thicker layer against the walls of the house, thereby creating the necessary slope. The correctness of the fill is checked using a level. The surface is aligned with the rule.
In the process of hardening in the first days, the concrete surface is wetted with water and covered with plastic wrap.
After removing the formwork and removing the board, which is laid along the walls of the house, the resulting temperature gap is filled with polyurethane sealant.

The most important part of any structure is the foundation. occurs only after the arrangement of the formwork. Such a structure is mounted in case of compliance with all rules and regulations. Before the start construction works study the types of formwork and read the instructions for their installation.

Types, device, materials, requirements

For beginners in construction, the question arises: "What is formwork for the foundation?" Is it metal or wooden structure, which helps to give the desired parameters (shape, position, structure) to concrete or primer solutions. It consists of form-building elements, fasteners and supporting materials.

There are two main types of formwork: removable, which must be removed after the poured mixture hardens, and non-removable, which remains part of the structure. By structure, frame, beam and tunnel systems are distinguished.

Before installing the formwork, it is worth checking it for compliance with the requirements:

the dimensions of the structure must be strictly calculated;
it is obligatory to check for cracks and cracks in order to avoid getting the solution into them;
the formwork must be resistant and strong to withstand concrete of any weight;
important right choice fasteners, they will help to carry out easy installation and dismantling.

For foundation formwork, use various materials The most popular of these is wood. The main requirement is that any material must create a flat surface.

Removable formwork

Removable formwork allows you to apply it to walls, ceilings, for casting columns or reinforced concrete elements. Experts distinguish modular, inventory structures made of metal, which have a high accuracy of element compatibility, reliability and a large number of cycles of use. Used in monolithic construction.

From planks

This option is the most common. To equip the formwork, sheet plywood is used either. The main advantages of this material are low price, ease of use. A negative factor is the need to use additional tools that help to strengthen the structure. For beginners in construction, it is best to use do-it-yourself plank formwork to avoid further problems with pouring the foundation.

Plank formwork

Plywood, chipboard, OSB

Formwork made of such materials is suitable only for small buildings. Its main advantage is its low cost, the disadvantages are the complexity of use, the danger of mortar leakage, the use of additional supports and low bearing capacity.

Fixed formwork

The main characteristic of permanent formwork is that after the concrete has set, it remains in the foundation forever. Such a structure is assembled from scrap materials, from fiberboard and particle board, installation is much faster and more economical. If it is necessary to increase the strength of the base, materials such as metal hollow pipes are used for formwork.

Made of metal

The most expensive formwork material. Steel sheets with a thickness of 2 mm are used. This type of formwork is suitable for the equipment of strip and monolithic foundations. The reinforcement is nailed precisely to the sheets, and the sheets themselves are bent under the shape of the concrete base. The main disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

Styrofoam

Is a quality and practical choice. It is easy to install and takes any shape. But the material also has a number of disadvantages - rather high price and difficulty in selecting items.

Fixed formwork made of expanded polystyrene

From reinforced concrete blocks

An expensive form of formwork is the use of concrete slabs. By increasing the thickness of the formwork, the amount of concrete base required can be reduced, which will help save construction costs without compromising the quality of the building. But at the same time, due to the large weight, you will need to install additional props, which will also require certain funds.

How to make do-it-yourself formwork?

How to make a do-it-yourself foundation formwork? There are several ways to mount the structure.

The first way

Do-it-yourself fixed formwork for the foundation is installed according to the following instructions:

dig a trench according to the size of the future foundation, according to the drawn up project;
there should be a gap of 2 centimeters between the formwork and the ground for ease of installation;
after wedging, the gap is covered with earth;
cover the bottom layer of the pit with sand and gravel, tamping each layer;
install a reinforcing mesh on the embankment to increase strength;
choose the fastening methods yourself, paying attention to the features of the selected material;
pour concrete and let it harden for about 28 days, after which continue construction.

DIY foundation formwork

Second way

The installation of removable formwork is performed in the same way:

we mount the fixed structure to the corner of the foundation;
we drown out with shields;
pour concrete mortar into the reinforced formwork;
expect hardening;
untwist the structure;
move and fix it in a different place.

Stops (spacers) and braces

In order to avoid the destruction of the formwork under the weight of the base, it should be carefully secured with braces from the outside. They should be no more than one meter apart. On both sides, stops are placed in the corners where the greatest load is. If the height of the shield is more than 2 meters, then it is worth building two levels of spacers. Stabilization of the distance between the two panels is carried out using 10 mm studs, nuts or metal spacers. Hairpins 10-15 centimeters long. The assembly of the structure is carried out in the following sequence:

holes are made on the shields;
a piece of pipe is mounted between them;

Spacers on the formwork for the foundation

a hairpin is held;
installation of metal plates;
the nuts are tightened.

During the removal of the formwork, the nuts are unscrewed and the studs are removed, then the shields are removed.

DIY polystyrene foundation assembly

Polystyrene formwork avoids dampness and insulates the structure. First, check the surface of the foundation and level it if necessary. We carry out the markup, select the corners and other important elements. Connect the blocks along the perimeter of the building, especially in the corners. Check all markings and installation with a spirit level. Next, the stage of installing reinforcement and pouring concrete is coming.

How to spend less?

When installing the formwork, it is really a good idea to save money. One of the ways is to fill the formwork for several days, this is especially true when great depth foundation. This will not harm the strength of the fill in any way. You can split concrete horizontally and vertically.

It is important to calculate this process according to the plan. If the depth of the foundation is 1.5 meters, it is enough to divide the pouring into three stages of 50 cm each. Follow these instructions:

tie the reinforcement for the entire volume of the formwork;
pour concrete in height;

Filling the foundation with layers

after 7 hours, remove the top layer of cement laitance on the surface. It should be removed, as this layer becomes very fragile when hardened. After removal, the surface will become rough, which will increase the adhesion to the next layer;
after three days, lift the structure and set it to a higher level. Leave the tubes in the concrete;
refill the exposed formwork.

Vertical division

Splitting the plan vertically is another fill method. The joints must be placed at a certain distance when dividing the foundation into several parts. There are a few things to do:

Formwork in those parts of the building where the part to be installed ends.
Knit a reinforcing cage.
Reinforcement rods must extend beyond 50 diameters.
Pour concrete over the area.
After 7 hours, peel off the top layer vertically.
Apply another layer.

You will find many useful materials on our website:

? It should be borne in mind that waterproofing cellars is an important element of the arrangement of buried premises. The main task is to prevent the penetration of water into the basement and to ensure its dryness. Examine the depth of the water carefully and select the correct insulating material. The right approach to business will help avoid problems with food storage.

Before making a screed with expanded clay, study all the subtleties of the expanded clay material itself and the technology for making such a screed. It is advisable to heed the advice of professionals and pour a concrete layer 3 cm thick. Then the floor will not crack and will eliminate all irregularities.
How ? This is a very laborious process, which depends on many factors: what type of house (wood or stone), what kind of soil, etc. Thanks correct selection tools and materials, you can provide yourself with a reliable foundation of the house.
To answer the question is it possible, compare all the pros and cons. Do not forget to take into account the properties of aerated concrete blocks: it is economical and fast, but staying in the bath will be uncomfortable because of the non-breathing walls.
He plays an important role in the durability of any building with his own hands, the main goal of which is to create a stable and even platform for the foundation and ensure less settlement. With proper pillow placement, the structure will last for hundreds of years.
– fashion trend and an indicator of the quality of the practicality of the work, their speed. The main thing is to develop the correct project before starting such events and be sure to take into account the analysis of the soil on the site.
The question is often asked: "What?" There is a wide variety of materials and technologies used, but be sure to remember that exterior decoration must conduct steam well. Then the moisture from the house will be removed naturally.

Outcomes

Formwork installation is a process that requires special care, because further construction, strength and reliability of the foundation depend on it. If you follow the advice described in the material, then the foundation laid will serve you for more than a dozen years.

The construction of the foundation is a laborious and expensive process; in individual construction, the only way to save money is to perform all the work (or their individual stages) on their own. In particular, this concerns the device of formwork when pouring tape-type bases, with the right approach and the study of video instructions, even a non-specialist will carry out its installation, fastening and removal. The material of the shields and supports can be anything: plastic, metal, moisture-resistant plywood, boards. Wood is used most often for reasons of economy, ease of assembly and fitting to the desired size.

On preparatory stage the foundation is marked, its perimeter is calculated. The formwork is placed on even and compacted layers of a drainage pad made of sand and gravel. Shields and supports are assembled in advance, the gap between digging a trench and installing them should be minimal, otherwise the walls will begin to crumble, and rain moisture will accumulate at the bottom. It is easy to calculate the required number of boards or plywood for formwork for a strip foundation, just know its area. Up to 90% of supporting structures in private construction are made of wood, their thickness depends on the mass of the concrete to be poured and the purpose of the building. The minimum for timber is 50 × 50 mm, plywood - 10 (provided it is supported), boards - from 22.

Construction technology step by step

Consider the standard instructions for building formwork with your own hands in stages (you can find more recommendations in):

1. Drawing up a foundation diagram, selection and calculation of material.

2. Knocking down shields. The boards are sawn into pieces of the same size, fastened to the timber with nails or self-tapping screws, with hats inside. Deviations in level are inevitable (they are not possible unless using plywood), but it is important that they do not exceed 2-3 cm. Gaps and slots are unacceptable: large ones are clogged with thin slats, small ones - with tow. This stage is easy to carry out by yourself, the help of one more person is required only with limited lines.

3. Lowering and fastening the formwork panels to each other. The method of fixation depends on the type: removable twist on the outside, non-removable (made of expanded polystyrene, fiberboard or other DSP) - as it will be more convenient. The corners require special attention.

4. Installation of spacers (wooden blocks or pieces plastic pipes for reusable formwork between panels with a length equal to the width of the strip foundation) and securing the structure from the outside with supports sawn at an angle of 45 °, the second end of which is buried in the ground.

5. Checking the strength and deviations from the markings. Final fixation, sanding the lower area. The line marks the top edge of the base.

6. Flooring inside the waterproofing film. This step is optional, but it is recommended to carry out it if there are gaps between the boards and for the convenience of removing the formwork. When working with panels made of plywood, plastic or metal, the inner surface should be lubricated with oil.

7. Pouring and distribution of concrete inside the formwork for the foundation: in layers, but without significant interruptions, with compaction every 20 cm and leveling the upper edge with a trowel. With correctly selected boards and reliable fixation, the structure does not bend under the weight of the mortar and remains motionless when the air is forced out. It is this condition that allows you to get a stable foundation.

8. Dismantling of the formwork - depending on the brand and the time of concrete hardening, but not earlier than 3 days. Private developers remove it after 70% of hardening - that is, after 2 weeks. The main sign of the permissibility of such an operation is the appearance of a gap between the concrete base and the formwork. The work should not be done by yourself, especially when removing large supports.

After that, they proceed to the next stage of the construction of the strip foundation with their own hands: waterproofing, if necessary, insulation, backfilling with soil. A slightly different (simpler) scheme of actions is observed step by step during the installation and operation of non-removable forms of formwork, recommended for construction in areas with soils strongly frozen in winter. Structures with walls made of expanded polystyrene or DSP reduce the load on the foundation and give it stability. They are easy to assemble on your own, but unlike ordinary wooden ones, they remain in the ground (points 8 and 9 of the given instructions are skipped).

If the height of the strip foundation exceeds 2 m, the formwork panels are advised to be made of solid materials, and not knocked out of the boards. In this case, square structures are considered the most durable; when installing too long, the requirements for the number and reliability of stops and internal struts increase. If the foundation is deeply laid due to increased costs, it is worth considering the option of renting the formwork.

Contacting specialists (at least - consulting) is required when conducting construction on loose soils. In addition to increasing the number of supports (with a standard pitch of 0.9-1 m), it is recommended to combine materials, for example, plywood formwork boards from the inside. The opinion of professionals is also important when organizing vertical and lateral supports with a significant rise of the tape above the zero mark, the latter variety in some cases is even screwed to the walls. The standard maximum is 15 cm above the ground level; if it is exceeded, the formwork for the future base is supported from all sides.

When choosing an internal waterproofing, two factors are taken into account: the budget and the size of the filler fractions in the concrete. It is not recommended to use roofing material for these purposes, it is inferior in flexibility to polyethylene (especially in winter). Most often, the choice is made between a thick film and moisture-resistant plywood, the second option is optimal when working with heavy coarse concretes.

Rough ground rules

The above instruction implies the laying of a standard strip foundation; when working on a slope, the process becomes more complicated. In this case, the base is made stepped, at the lowest point the formwork is made higher, at the top the tape should rise above the ground. The bottom is required to be even under any conditions, by analogy, layers of sand and a larger filler are gradually filled up and compacted, it is recommended to fill in a layer of lean concrete.

This type of foundation on a slope will be advisable when building a house made of heavy bricks (but with differences of more than 1 m, the costs increase unreasonably, the height of the tape at the bottom point is not allowed to exceed four times its width); for light buildings, a pile-grillage type is considered a good alternative. The formwork for pouring a hanging grillage is distinguished by the presence of a bottom and additional supports (the weight of the concrete is directed towards it, and not to the ground).

Error propagation

Violations of technology when installing formwork for a strip foundation include:

Using uncut or oversized boards. The correctness of the cement hydration process depends on the evenness of the inner surface and the absence of cracks. Serious deviations or gaps lead to mortar flow, hardening of the tape with uneven walls (more susceptible to the effect of groundwater).
Installation of formwork for a foundation made of overdried wood (for similar reasons). In this case, preference is given to raw boards.
Errors when choosing thickness and width. It is wrong to use plywood without deck support, or to knock down overly thin boards.
Removing the formwork ahead of time, rough dismantling (pulling off with force).
Installation of the formwork on an uneven base.
Lack of internal struts at the beginning of concreting. Exists important rule: all wooden elements are removed as the formwork is filled with concrete. It is permissible to leave only reinforcing steel screeds inside the tape.

Ignoring the rules is fraught with bending of structures and overconsumption of concrete, leakage, the formation of uneven walls and difficulties in further finishing the strip foundation. The involvement of specialists is required if it is necessary to pour concrete in the winter, work on difficult soils, and limited installation times.

Incorrectly assembled formwork from boards can be strengthened - it is enough to punch it from the inside with moisture-resistant plywood. If you wish to reuse the supporting and panel structures, the removed panels are washed, leveled and dried.