• What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

    Is it damn cold in your new house, not only in winter, but even in autumn? Then it will have to be insulated, and as soon as possible. And it is necessary to insulate outside. Firstly, it is the saving of internal space. Secondly, external insulation is much more effective, because it prevents the walls from cooling, and not just keeps the heat inside.

    Since this procedure is within the power of even a novice builder, you can insulate a panel house from the outside with your own hands. And this is a saving on the cost of insulation up to 50%! The main thing is to choose the right material.

    The choice of materials - how not to harm the structures of the house

    Considering that initially a frame house is light enough, it is often built on light foundations - columnar, shallow tape and pile foundations. They are initially calculated for lightweight structures. Therefore, weighting finished house may require reinforcement of the foundation. And the additional load on the floors must be taken into account.

    Dew point - why doesn't the insulation "work"?

    The main reason for the deterioration of the quality of all hygroscopic heaters is moisture that accumulates inside. After all, water is an excellent conductor of heat - water-cooled installations are much more efficient than air-cooled ones. Microparticles of moisture in the insulation layer work in the same way - they absorb heat and give it to a colder environment.

    And even ideal steam and waterproofing will not save the insulation from wetting if the dew point at which condensation begins to form is incorrectly calculated. So, the image clearly shows what an insufficient layer of external insulation will lead to, in this case expanded clay with a density of 200 kg / cubic meter and a layer thickness of 10 cm.

    The black graph illustrates the decrease in the temperature of the cake walls from 20 degrees inside the building to -25 degrees outside. With such strong differences, an insufficient layer of outer insulation will lead to cooling and the inner layer, at the point of contact of which steam will begin to condense.

    This option will allow either to completely remove condensation, or to shift it to the outer layers. Then, if there is a ventilation gap between the insulation and the waterproofing, excess moisture will simply evaporate without affecting the characteristics of the material.

    Thermal insulation boards and mats

    The simplest and most affordable types of materials for outdoor insulation are mineral wool and glass wool. To reduce heat loss almost in half, ten centimeters of insulation with a density of 25 kg / cubic meter, laid from the outside, is enough.

    Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce heat loss from 42.09 kW / h to 23.37 kW / h during the heating season.

    Approximately the same effect can be achieved with 10 cm of expanded polystyrene. But the disadvantage of polymer insulation is their almost complete vapor permeability, which significantly worsens the natural microclimate. In other words, there will always be high humidity in such a house, unless forced ventilation is made. And this is a direct road to the formation of mold and mildew.

    But natural insulation, for example, reed slabs, must be laid with a layer of at least 15 cm to ensure a similar level of heat loss. Of course, environmentally friendly material is always preferable, but it is worth taking into account the financial side of the issue.

    Heat insulating backfills

    Although quite feasible. According to its characteristics, 10 cm ecowool with a density of 35 kg / cubic meter. are in no way inferior to mineral wool. But the density is 60 kg / m3. will already lead to an increase in heat loss up to 25.43 kW / h.

    When insulating walls with expanded clay, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to increase the thickness of the walls by 25 cm. It is better to use expanded clay crushed stone with a density of 200 kg / m3. Increase in density up to 600 kg / m3. will lead to an increase in heat loss with a similar thickness of the insulation layer up to 27.22 kW / h. Also, do not forget about the weight of the building - such an amount of expanded clay will significantly make the building heavier.

    15 cm of expanded vermiculite as an external insulation will reduce heat loss to 25.18 kW / h. This is a good option if you have a vermiculite production facility nearby. Otherwise, the delivery of the material will negate all the cheapness of the insulation itself.

    If there is a sawmill nearby, ready to give away sawdust free of charge, the walls can be insulated in a rather economical way. In addition, 15 cm sawdust with a density of 250 kg / m3. provide only 24.48 kW / h of ash loss during the heating season. And so that the sawdust does not rot and gain sufficient protection against fire, they make a clay or cement mixture.

    For example, for the manufacture of "home" wood concrete will need 100 kg of sawdust, 25 kg of sand, 6 kg of slaked lime and 200 kg of cement. You need to mix everything in one container, adding water in an amount sufficient for normal mixing. The final mixture should not crumble when tamped, but also water should not flow out.

    The advantage of frame-panel houses is the ability to insulate them without removing the outer skin.

    But if the walls are covered with siding and are in good condition, it can be dismantled first. This will significantly save on new skin.

    The main thing when laying insulation from the outside is not to leave a ventilated gap between it and the wall. This will negate all insulation efforts, since cold air will freely contact the wall.

    General scheme of external insulation

    Regardless of the material chosen, the initial layout is always the same:


    All cracks are blown out with foam. It is important not to forget to go over the foam sheets with a special float to improve adhesion. Otherwise, the plaster layer can easily come off along with the reinforcing mesh.

    How to properly insulate your facade with mineral wool is available in the video:

    House insulation with bulk materials

    The technology of insulating a house with bulk materials also requires the construction of a frame. After that, the frame is sutured edged board to a height of up to 30 cm. Unedged board is not used - the insulation will spill out through the cracks and irregularities. Consider insulation using sawdust as an example.

    A layer of sawdust is poured around the entire perimeter of the house and compacted well. In the future, uncombined sawdust cakes together and the resulting voids no longer insulate anything. So gradually the sheathing is raised under the roof.

    The last layer under the roof is laid wet - so it will not need to be tamped, and thanks to natural ventilation, the sawdust will dry quickly.

    If the insulation is planned with sawdust concrete, a special formwork is built into which the mixture will be laid. This lesson is quite long - each layer must have time to dry before you can proceed to the next. Thus, it will be possible to insulate only 50 cm of the facade per day.

    Insulation of the basement and attic floor

    Heat loss at home occurs not only through the walls. Precious heat escapes by convection through the roof, and the cold air under the floor can also cool the house well. Of course, it is best to try and order infrared thermography.

    It will reveal all the "bottlenecks" in the structure and allow you to save on insulation - you don't have to "wrap up" the whole house completely.

    Insulation of the attic - how to make a panel house "breathe"

    Why timber frame houses are considered unsuitable for permanent residence? All because of the unpleasant microclimate - the air remains damp, and forced ventilation creates additional problems during construction. But in the presence of a non-residential attic, the house can be made to "breathe" - to evaporate excess moisture without creating drafts in the living quarters.

    For such an environmentally friendly insulation of the attic floor from the outside, you will need ordinary sawdust. Due to the properties of absorbing and evaporating moisture, the insulation does not rot for a long time, even if there are strong leaks in the roof. With proper laying, sawdust in a horizontal plane practically does not cake, which allows you to forget about attic floor for many years.

    The technology is extremely simple:

    1. A material that is vapor-permeable in both directions is laid on the floor of the attic. This is necessary so that small particles of wood do not spill down. In this case, ordinary agrofibre is ideal - it does not retain moisture in itself, freely passing air and water. Vapor barrier when insulating with sawdust is contraindicated! Otherwise, all the moist air will remain below, not penetrating into the attic.
    2. What is especially pleasant about sawdust insulation is that the procedure requires a minimum of effort. Spunbond is laid with an overlap of 10 cm and fixed on the logs with a stapler or nails. Joints and puncture points do not need to be glued.
    3. Sawdust is poured between the logs. To make them easier to lay and, moreover, to give them some fire resistance, sawdust can be sprayed with a fire retardant solution. The main thing is not to overmoisten. Ideally, the sawdust should remain crumbly, but form lumps when compressed strongly.
    4. The insulation is not tamped and covered with nothing. Immediately a subfloor is laid on top of the log. Can be used unedged board- due to irregularities and crevices, excess moisture will evaporate into the attic space.
    5. It is important that the attic is ventilated! It is best to use a windproof membrane for waterproofing against rain and snow. It does not allow water to pass through from the outside, but is vapor permeable from the inside. Otherwise, condensation will form, waterlogging the insulation and leading to the development of mold and mildew on wooden structures.

    Insulation of the basement of the house on a columnar foundation

    In the presence of a basement, ash leaks will be insignificant, because even an unheated basement always keeps a positive temperature. And for the owners of houses on a pile or columnar foundation, there is a high risk of becoming victims of strong drafts with insufficient floor insulation. And if you shoot flooring for some reason, it does not work, and there is no access to the floor from the outside, you can simply insulate the basement.

    The procedure itself, although laborious, is quite simple in technical terms:

    1. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the house with a bevel outward. The soil is not exported - it will still come in handy. A frame is attached to the pillars of the foundation, on which the insulation will be held.
    2. Waterproofing is placed at the bottom of the trench, on it drain pipe and everything is covered with a sand cushion, which, as in the construction of the foundation, is spilled and compacted. The pillow should not reach the future insulation.
    3. The insulation can now be attached. The ideal material is extruded polystyrene foam. It is much stronger than polystyrene, withstands temperature extremes and is completely resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation.
    4. Slabs are sheathed with slate - this is the simplest and most economical option. To make things go faster, it is better to pre-drill holes in the slate and only then screw the sheets with self-tapping screws.
    5. Removed soil is poured on top of the sand cushion. In the plinth, vents are made and closed with nets. (26) For access under the house, it is advisable to provide also an insulated door - otherwise, in case of problems with pipes, it will be rather difficult to get there quickly.

    Works on additional insulation houses will bear fruit in the coming heating season. So do not delay it!

    Understanding how to insulate a frame house for winter residence, will allow you to use it all year round... Sound insulation in the house, comfort and durability depend on how correctly the technologies are followed.

    Warming options

    Before carrying out work, it should be determined whether the thermal insulation will be inside or outside the building. To do this, you should know the features of each option.

    External insulation:

    1. Does not violate the interior of the house.
    2. Located inside the room wooden wall is able to save heating, as it accumulates heat.
    3. Insulation protects the building facade from adverse influences environment(moisture, high or low temperatures etc).
    Insulation of the house outside

    Internal insulation:

    1. Has good sound insulation.
    2. There are no hard requirements.
    3. No vapor or waterproofing materials required.

    Insulation of the house inside

    but this way has a number of disadvantages, for example:

    • dismantling of the interior decoration of the room where the thermal insulation will be installed;
    • accumulation of moisture in the room, which reduces the service life of the building;
    • insulation inside the room does not preserve the building facade from the negative impact of external factors.

    Features of insulation

    The preparatory stage of building insulation for winter and summer does not differ depending on the chosen material. The difference concerns only the process of laying it. Each of the materials used has its own characteristics.

    Use of foam and EPS

    Styrofoam is considered the warmest material, but it is not the best way for insulation wooden buildings.


    Using foam as insulation

    Features of using these materials:

    1. Before laying the styrofoam, use polyurethane foam, it is necessary to remove all cracks and irregularities, since this material does not fit tightly.
    2. Expanded polystyrene should not be located near sources of combustion, as the material is flammable.
    3. The foam does not allow air to pass through, so you need to take care of the ventilation of the room, otherwise the walls in the room may become moldy.
    4. Expanded polystyrene must be used together with waterproofing and vapor barrier, as it does not allow moisture to pass through.

    Using ecowool

    This material has been used not very long ago, however, it can be used in the process of insulating frame and other types of buildings. The main features of this material are as follows:

    1. The laying of this material can be done with or without a special tool. The use of the tool significantly improves the thermal insulation characteristics of the room.
    2. Ecowool perfectly absorbs moisture, therefore, the installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier should be treated with greater responsibility.
    3. Ecowool shrinks, so it should be applied with a margin.
    4. When applying it, you should use personal protective equipment.

    Thermal insulation of the house with ecowool

    Important! Wall insulation with ecowool should be carried out by qualified specialists.

    Use of expanded clay

    Expanded clay is used much less often, since it has inferior characteristics in comparison with similar materials. Its main features:

    1. It is most often used for floors and floors.
    2. It is mainly combined with sawdust, ash and similar materials.
    3. Expanded clay is better to use in small fractions, so there will be less empty spaces.

    Using expanded clay for insulation frame houses

    How to choose insulation

    Before you start construction works, you need to decide what is better to insulate a frame house. Insulation for residential premises must have the following characteristics:

    1. Environmentally friendly - should not emit substances harmful to human life and health.
    2. Fire safety - the material used should not let the fire spread, and also not emit a lot of smoke.
    3. Low thermal conductivity.
    4. Durability - the insulation should fit tightly and easily and not change shape over time.
    5. Inexpensive.

    Important! These characteristics are more suitable for expanded polystyrene and.

    In order to choose the right material for insulation, you should know what pros and cons each one is endowed with.

    Expanded polystyrene

    It has a low weight, which is very important in warming a frame house. This material tolerates temperature extremes well, and is also not afraid of moisture and does not freeze. That is why buildings with its use are distinguished by their durability and low cost.


    Warming with expanded polystyrene

    Among the disadvantages are:

    • fire hazardous - flammable;
    • subject to mechanical and chemical damage;
    • does not let air through, which is why the room is constantly humid.

    Often, the foam is installed from the outside of the house.


    Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene outside the building

    This material can be replaced with a similar one, namely, penoplex, which is more resistant to various damage, but has a high cost.

    Mineral wool

    The most popular material in construction, which can be in the form of rolls, mats and slabs. Mineral wool has high performance in environmental friendliness, lightness, thermal insulation and sound insulation. Buildings with its use are characterized by the duration of operation.

    Important! Slab-shaped cotton wool (basalt) does not burn.

    When insulating, it is important to pay special attention to waterproofing, since over time, the cotton wool sags and cakes, moreover, when it gets wet, it loses its properties and becomes an excellent medium for mold formation.

    How insulation is made

    In order to end up with a warm frame house, its walls must be insulated from the inside and outside. The work process is almost the same, with a few exceptions.

    Insulation outside

    For the outside, it is best to choose the crossover method.

    The insulation is always laid with a gap in the seams to avoid the appearance of blown gaps.

    • The frame of the building is sheathed with OSB boards, which should have gaps of 2-3 mm. Subsequently, they need to be foamed.

    This is what OSB boards look like.
    • Further, waterproofing is stretched, which protects both the walls of the house and the insulation from moisture and other adverse environmental influences. Usually the waterproofing has self-adhesive strips, if they are not there, the knocks between them should be sealed with tape.

    Connecting the joints of the insulation
    • Each layer of insulation should be laid in such a way as to overlap the previous one by 15-20 cm.
    • The thickness of the insulation is approximately 15 cm.
    • After laying the insulation, all voids are filled with polyurethane foam.

    Insulation of walls inside the house

    After the frame house is completely insulated for winter living, you can proceed to interior decoration... For this:

    1. The first layer of thermal insulation is laid, the thickness of which is 5 cm.
    2. Then the insulation is laid in the frame house, the thickness of which is 10 cm. The entire frame between the racks is filled with it.
    3. Then a vapor barrier is attached, which prevents steam from entering the inside of the insulation. They are laid with the rough side outward, and with the smooth side to the thermal insulation.
    4. Bars are installed on top of it.

    Important! The insulation cannot be pushed in by force and rammed, since the heat in the room depends on the voids inside it.

    Insulation is also installed in the partitions between rooms. For the most part, it is required for sound insulation. For this, plates are installed with a layer of 10 mm. No vapor barrier is required here, since the temperature in the separated rooms will be the same.

    Instead of a vapor barrier, glassine is used here. It prevents dust from the insulation from entering the room.

    Do not forget about the insulation of corners in a frame house. This can be done in various ways. So, a warm corner can be made by constructing a structure of two boards, with special blocks made of blocks, and insulate the space between such structures mineral wool.

    Ceiling insulation

    It is better to carry out the work even before the roof is completely assembled, so it will not interfere with the packing density.

    The whole process of warming consists of the following stages:

    • Inside the house, on the ceiling beams, a vapor barrier is stretched, and a board 25 mm thick is stuffed on it.

    Ceiling beams and vapor barrier
    • Insulation is laid on top, between which there should be no voids, tightly overlapping each layer.

    Important! When laying insulation on the ceiling, you should make a small ledge on the walls.

    • If insulation is not required in the attic, then the membrane film should not be stretched. A board or plywood is nailed to the floor of the attic.
    • If it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the outside, then this is done inside, while it should be tied up so that it does not fall off. After that, sew on the waterproofing, and then - the board or plywood.

    Indoor ceiling waterproofing

    Roof insulation

    Often, both the roof and the ceiling are insulated in a frame house. This happens when attic it is used as a second floor for housing and is heated.

    The process of work practically does not differ from the insulation of the ceiling. The only exception is that when the roof is insulated, waterproofing is necessarily stretched over the material, which will protect it from environmental influences.

    Features of roof insulation:

    1. It is better to insulate outside, since it is inconvenient and unsafe to do it inside. Many materials tend to crumble on the face.
    2. Once installed rafter system, a vapor barrier is sutured from below, onto which sheathing material, board or plywood is stuffed.
    3. Insulation sheets are placed outside. This is done in the same way as when insulating walls, ceilings, etc.
    4. Waterproofing is placed on the top, on which a counter-lath, lathing and roofing are installed.

    The inside of the roof is insulated only if it is completely assembled.


    Roof insulation

    Floor insulation

    Floor insulation should be started with preparatory work... This should be done before installing the frame of the house.

    If the land where the building is located is clay with a high water level, then a water drainage system should be done.

    After that, inside the foundation, the soil is removed by 40-50 cm and installed drainage system... After it is covered with a sand and gravel pillow. After that, you can install the frame.


    Floor insulation

    In case this step is skipped, you can use expanded clay. To do this, the surface is first leveled, and then the above material is poured. It is desirable that it has fractions from 10-40 mm in its composition. After that, you can equip the floor.

    How to choose a filler

    The best insulation for the floor is mineral wool, polyester, steel shavings, etc. They are easy to install, use, environmentally friendly and fireproof. However, they have increased requirements for vapor barrier and waterproofing.

    You can also use materials such as:

    1. Polystyrene - it is lightweight, resistant to adverse influences and has a long service life. It can be ordinary (less durable, fireproof) and extruded - it has low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption.

    It is simple to lay such insulation: the sheets are placed close to each other, the edge tape is installed along the entire perimeter of the floor.

    1. Expanded clay and slag - has low thermal conductivity and light weight.
    2. - This is an insulating foil, which is rarely used as an independent insulation.
    3. Edging tape - it is used for edging the entire perimeter of the house before the insulation is applied.

    Floor insulation in stages

    Insulation of the floor in a frame house is carried out between the profiles. That is why it is better to choose a dry screed, it is easier to work with it.

    Warming process on the ground:

    1. Sand and crushed stone must be tamped well, then brick posts must be installed. They will not be the basis for the profiles.
    2. Laying waterproofing. It can be bituminous paper or plastic wrap. Its height depends on the level of the floor, it should be borne in mind that the waterproofing should protrude slightly on the walls.
    3. A small gap must be left at the joints of the floor and walls, in which the edge insulation will be laid.

    Stages of floor insulation on the ground

    The simplest floor insulation technology is made from bulk materials. Such insulation is carried out perpendicular to the lags along the entire perimeter of the room, while pressing tightly.

    Floor insulation with slabs

    The base of the floor does not play any role in the technology of laying the insulation, however, this should be taken into account when choosing a material for these purposes. So, if logs are on the basis of the floor, then a mineral wool slab is best suited as a heater, and rigid materials for a concrete floor. In any case, the process of installing thermal insulation is as follows:

    1. After laying the logs, from both sides to the bottom, the bars are filled and the flooring is assembled from antiseptic grooved boards.
    2. On top of this glassine is spread - this is a roofing board impregnated with bitumen.
    3. Insulation is placed on top.
    4. After that, a vapor barrier film is placed, which protects the insulation from condensation.

    What work is carried out after warming the house

    After the thermal insulation is installed, it is the turn to equip the supporting system for the ventilated cladding, as well as the plane for finishing. As for the finish, here the wind and water protection of the insulation can be provided with a layer of plaster.

    As for the external decoration, then you should take care of the installation of the panels in advance. In order for the lathing to be strong enough, the frame posts must be installed frequently. After fixing the waterproof membrane with staples to the frame, it is lined with slats, the thickness of which is about 25-30 mm. This ensures that trapped water can drain off, as well as ventilation.

    The wall of a frame house looks like this: inner lining- vapor barrier - insulation - wooden frame - membrane - counter grill - facade finishing.


    External finishing at home after warming

    When arranging walls under plastering work sheet materials are used that perfectly remove steam and prevent condensation. The sheets exclude the blowing of the insulation.

    The inner wall looks like this: inner cladding - vapor barrier - wooden frame - insulation - membrane - counter grill - external cladding - basic plaster - plaster mesh - plaster.

    Recently, frame houses are gaining more and more popularity. Therefore, you should know how to insulate a frame house so that it is suitable for living in both winter and summer. However, it should be borne in mind that the insulation must be reliably protected from the negative effects of the environment, because moisture that has got into it leads to the formation of condensation, and it has a detrimental effect on this material. Therefore, it is imperative to use high-quality waterproofing.

    One of the most wonderful options for your own home is a frame house. This is an excellent and comfortable home and also quite economical to build. However, the business is not limited to construction. It is necessary to complete the finishing to thoroughly insulate the house, because comfort will depend on this. Among the main features of a frame house, one can single out the fact that the walls are insulated directly during construction - this is primarily due to its design.

    How to insulate a frame house: the choice of materials

    Initially, you should decide what material needs to be laid in the form of insulation in the wall cake. There are a wide variety of materials for this. Best suited for this activity:


    Insulation of a frame house can be done by hand

    Basic requirements for insulation for the walls of a frame house

    1. It is best to choose insulation from an environmentally friendly material so that it does not harm human health.
    2. It must be resistant to moisture accumulation as well as fire.
    3. Ease of installation on the frame of the building insulation.
    4. The ratio of quality and price in insulation.
    5. Fire safety.
    6. Low thermal conductivity.
    7. Strength, as well as non-susceptibility to mechanical damage.

    Wall insulation technologies

    They can be different, but among them the main technologies can be distinguished:

    1. Thermal insulation with board materials (foam, mineral wool, etc.).
    2. Sprayed thermal insulation. This type of insulation is still quite rarely used due to its novelty. However, it is quite effective. In this case, polyurethane foam is used as a heater. The application process is similar to working with polyurethane foam.
    3. Backfill technology. In this case, insulation is carried out using cellulose fiber, as well as other filling materials.
    4. Combined options can also be used. Often such a scheme can be used: mineral wool is laid inside, foam plastic outside, and then plaster.

    The procedure for external insulation works

    When carrying out work, precise insulation technology plays a paramount role. Any factors that can provide a positive end result of insulation should be taken into account, including the reasons that can lead to a negative result.

    1. Hinged insulation method. In this case, the frame is attached to the wall, and waterproofing is attached directly to the surface. It can be of a pasting and painting type. At paint waterproofing walls after priming are exposed to bitumen application. In the case of pasting, using bituminous mastic, a waterproofing roll material, isol, waterproofing, fiberglass. Then, tapes or slabs of rolled insulation are attached to the frame cells, using special glue, or mounting dowels.

      At the end of the work, the outer side of the frame is finished with decorative plates or panels. As a result, you can make fiber cement, composite, plastic, metal, porcelain stoneware and so on.

      Polyfoam is the cheapest insulation for walls

      The main advantage of hinged insulation is the ventilation system, which eliminates the appearance and accumulation of condensate in the insulation layer.

    2. Wet insulation method... This method is one of the cheapest, but at the same time, a rather laborious one. With the help of polymer glue, insulation plates are attached to the wall, after which the reinforcing mesh is fastened with dowels, and then it is laid on it decorative plaster... This coating is also called "lightweight" plaster.
    3. There is also "heavy" plaster... It will be more complicated, but in terms of its reliability and durability it will surpass the "light" one. It is done as follows - insulation plates are attached to the wall using dowels, after which, using blocking plates, a reinforcing mesh is fixed.

      Thermal insulation of the house with fibreboard plates

      Then comes the first layer of plaster. It dries up within 24 hours and expansion joints are made. This is followed by the second, as well as the leveling layer, in which temperature-shrinkage joints should be present. The last decorative, where dyes are added, is applied after five days.

    4. Spraying liquid insulation... This method is the most progressive and modern. Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out using a special installation. A special feature is that the performance of such insulation is an order of magnitude higher, and the cost is equal to the average insulation. After polyurethane foam, almost any cover can be used as decoration, including curtain panels.
    5. Insulation applied by spraying

    6. Facing method ... This option is one of the most expensive, however, and the most decorative. Facing with materials can be carried out on the wall of the building, as well as on top of the insulation. With the second method, the quality of insulation will be much better, however, it is necessary to perform high-quality ventilation.
    • when performing work, it is important to accurately follow the insulation scheme.
    • in multilayer systems, you need to make sure that there is sufficient ventilation so that the inner insulating layer does not damp and, accordingly, does not collapse.

    Internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

    Sometimes there are situations when it is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use internal thermal insulation. For this work, the same materials can be used as outside, however, mineral wool and glass wool, due to the complexity of installation, are rarely used. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam is used, as well as sprayed materials: ecowool, polyurethane, penoizol.

    Installation of a vapor barrier layer

    The cladding of the inner surface of the walls is produced in various ways. Insulation can be done with reinforced plaster, then putty and finally wallpapering or painting.

    Insulation of a frame house from the inside

    You can also use clapboard, MDF and plastic finishing panels. The most common option is drywall upholstery followed by a decorative finish.

    Materials such as penoizol and polyurethane foam are also used. Penoizol can be applied to surfaces of various configurations, it is able to fill all irregularities and defects. It is environmentally friendly and resistant to fire, but the main difficulty in applying it is that a special foam filling machine is needed.

    Read about the features in the next article.

    Increasingly during construction country cottage in preference, frame structures that are easier to install. Finished panels with a thickness of 12 to 20 cm are not inferior in technical specifications stone walls. Building houses from SIP blocks is an inexpensive way to build your own home on a tight schedule. Panels for such structures can be factory-made or a type-setting structure.

    The construction of frame houses has gained its popularity due to the ease of erecting walls, but they are rather poorly susceptible to cold, so they need to be additionally insulated.

    When using multilayer sandwich panels, you need to think about how to insulate a frame house, what kind of insulation to choose for walls and ceilings.

    The post-beam structure, which serves as the frame of the house, is made of durable materials - wood or metal. Thermal insulation blocks are placed between the frame racks of the house. It is better to choose insulation in slabs, and not in rolls. Sheets are easier to mount into frame bases. The walls are sheathed, starting from the outside - in this sequence it is easier to fix the vapor barrier and insulation. A membrane wind protection is attached to the crate, followed by a layer of heat insulator, which is protected with a vapor barrier.

    Thermal insulation materials used in frame structures

    There are a few possible options insulate the cottage. All heaters on the market today have their own advantages, allowing you to build a warm, economical house... When choosing insulation in frame structures, it is better to dwell on one of the following materials:

    1. Synthetic wool (mineral, fiberglass, slag).
    2. Eco-friendly materials (ecowool, fibreboard, reed boards and mats).
    3. Styrofoam.
    4. Extruded polystyrene foam - additional external insulation.
    5. Polyurethane foam.
    6. Foam glass.
    7. Natural heaters: expanded clay, slag, straw, flax fleece, cereal husks, etc. are mixed with clay. For such materials, you need to do frame walls greater depth.

    The thickness of the insulation layer is determined based on the capabilities of each insulation, the structure of the house and the characteristics of the climatic zone. A multi-layer wall as a whole has a thickness of 12 to 40 cm, which in terms of characteristics corresponds to a brickwork of 50 cm. frame technologies, is not inferior to a brick structure, subject to strict adherence to the technology during installation.

    Thermal insulation of building walls with mineral wool

    Minvata is the most common material for house insulation on a frame. A high level of thermal insulation is provided by the fibrous structure of the mineral wool. Air spaces between the particles of the substance provide high level protection from noise and cold. An important condition for vata to perform its functions is its correct installation... The pressed board is attached to the frame walls with a snug fit to the wooden or metal racks without creasing and creasing of the material. Minvata should not be tamped or squeezed. It is better to lay the cotton wool in layers of 50 mm. The total thickness of the interlayer should be about 15 cm.

    The most highly effective representative of mineral wool is basalt, or stone wool, made in the form of slabs. They can not only insulate the walls, but also provide a reliable level of sound insulation. It is a fire-resistant material that can withstand temperatures up to 1000 ° C and does not shrink. Basalt (stone) wool is produced from molten gabrobasalt rocks (95% is stone).

    For the installation of energy-saving structures using mineral wool, you will need a minimum set of tools:

    • knife for trimming excess slabs;
    • a hacksaw with a fine tooth for cutting material.

    Of the disadvantages of mineral wool, the following features of this material can be noted:

    1. Fibrous material is capable of accumulating moisture, so it is better to pay special attention to the layer of hydro and vapor barrier on the inside and outside of the wall. When mineral wool gets wet by 2-3%, the thermal insulation properties are reduced by 50%. Due to its low moisture-resistant performance, basalt wool is not recommended to be used for floor insulation.
    2. One of the main disadvantages is the presence of formaldehyde in the composition of mineral wool. These carcinogens are harmful to health. To prevent the release of harmful substances into the room, cotton wool is covered with environmentally friendly materials - membrane vapor barriers. It is better to use durable polyethylene for such purposes, as is done, for example, in Canada.
    3. Basalt wool lasts up to 25 years. After this period, the walls will lose their energy-saving properties. The insulation will have to be replaced with a new one.

    You can find glass wool on sale. This material is easy to install, but it is too fragile to insulate the house, sags in vertical structures and is harmful to health both during the installation process and in the further operation of the building. Slag wool has the highest thermal conductivity among mineral wool. When moisture gets in, the slag wool becomes aggressive to metal structures.

    Heaters based on polystyrene foam for frame cottages

    For the construction of energy-efficient housing, double wall insulation is required. Styrofoam is a lightweight and inexpensive material that can be used as a thermal insulator inside the walls between the uprights and outside the building. Polyfoam is often used in the manufacture of frame-panel structures assembled in factories. Styrofoam sheets come in a variety of sizes and configurations. When buying this material, you need to carefully inspect the panels for cracks.

    The advantages of foam include the following indicators:

    1. It is used for insulation of horizontal and vertical surfaces inside and outside the house.
    2. With a thinner layer (5 cm is enough), the quality of thermal insulation is not inferior to other heaters.
    3. Safe for health.

    Expanded polystyrene has the same characteristics - more modern material, according to some indicators, it is better than the usual foam. It has an aluminum interlayer. Expanded polystyrene is produced in rolls and in the form of plates. It is easy to install thanks to its self-adhesive surface. Styrofoam sheets are placed on special glue.
    Styrofoam has negative qualities. These include:

    • when burning, it emits caustic smoke (modern counterparts have a lower degree of flammability);
    • has poor sound insulation;
    • collapses under the influence of heat - with external installation, additional protection against sun rays- painting or plastering of walls;
    • destruction by rodents is possible.

    A new and not very common insulation is foam glass. This is foamed glass, consisting of small cells. The heat insulator is better than its predecessors in many respects. Foam glass is an environmentally friendly substance, easy to fix, has high thermal insulation performance. Protects against external noise, and is itself a vapor barrier. The only drawback of foam glass is its high cost.

    Seamless eco-friendly insulation for all surfaces

    Heat insulators can be not only in sheets or in rolls. There are a number of safe insulation materials with a loose structure - these are bulk materials, for the application of which special equipment is required. Such heaters include ecowool and polyurethane foam. According to some characteristics, bulk insulation is better than sheet counterparts.

    Polyurethane foam (PPU) - comparatively new material in the market of heaters, with high rates of heat and sound insulation. The heat-insulating substance consists of two components, which are mixed and sprayed between the posts of the frame structure. Outwardly, it resembles polyurethane foam.

    With the use of polyurethane foam, roofs, attics, floors under screed, external facades of buildings, internal partitions and walls are insulated. On different surfaces a layer of polyurethane foam of a certain density lays down. For example, for facades and floors, the density of the heat insulator is 40-60 kg / m, and for roof insulation - 20-40 kg / m.

    Polyurethane foam belongs to the new generation of heaters, which have a number of positive qualities:

    1. Due to its sticky consistency, polyurethane foam adheres to any surface, fills it without leaving joints.
    2. It hardens in a few seconds.
    3. Does not accumulate moisture.
    4. The elasticity of the material allows it to be used on structures of any shape and at an angle.
    5. There is no need to use fasteners, the polyurethane foam fills all joints and cracks.
    6. Non-flammable, resistant to temperature changes.
    7. Biologically neutral, safe for the environment.
    8. Service life over 30 years.

    Ecowool belongs to free-flowing environmentally friendly insulation. The insulating particles are 80% cellulose. This adhesive material has the same characteristics as polyurethane foam. The difference between ecowool and the above-described heat-insulating agent is several ways of applying it to the surface: dry, wet and wet-glue.

    With dry installation, ecowool fills the closed space between two panels. The material is blown into a technological hole in the wall of the house. When applied wet, the cellulose particles are mixed with water, which is sprayed by a special blowing machine. In the wet-glue installation method, water vapor is mixed with the glue. The disadvantage of polyurethane foam and ecowool is the high cost due to the need to call a professional team.

    Natural heaters based on natural materials

    Now, when all new modern means of insulating frame houses are on sale, sawdust concrete is used less often. Many experts are skeptical about the use of such products, claiming that a mixture based on sawdust cannot serve for a long time and will rot after a few seasons. The practice of building frame houses shows that buildings that have been in operation since the 60s of the last century have not lost their qualities.

    During a deficit building materials the use of improvised means was the only one possible way insulate summer cottages. Today, suburban residents can be stopped not only by the prescription of the origin of this material, but also by the labor intensity in its production. Mixing of clay with sawdust, shavings, straw is done exclusively by hand. You also need to cut the straw yourself.

    The production of 1 cubic meter of insulation will take a lot of time. And for thermal insulation of a one and a half-story frame house 6x9 m, it will take about 2 months. Sawdust concrete can be used in a cramped material situation, because its main advantage is its low price.

    Insulation is one of the most important components, without which it is impossible to build a frame house. The energy-saving characteristics of a residential building largely depend on the choice of a heat insulator. Before choosing one of the proposed materials, you need to carefully study the characteristics of each of them and the design features of the cottage. Knowing the requirements for insulation, it will be easier to navigate in all the variety of choices.

    Frame houses have become an excellent innovation in our country - inexpensive and quick way erection of individual construction.

    But, despite the large number of advantages, these buildings have one important drawback, these buildings need additional thermal insulation, since the climatic conditions in Russia are very harsh.

    Consider which insulation is better for a frame house? How to properly carry out thermal insulation work, and what kind of insulation is better to use.

    There are a lot of materials for thermal insulation of houses made using Finnish technology. Each has its faults, and positive sides, therefore, in order to understand how to choose insulation for a frame house and apply the best option thermal insulation, it is worth taking a closer look at the most popular heat insulators on the construction market.

    Mineral wool for thermal insulation of the frame structure

    How to properly insulate a frame house with mineral wool? This material is often used not only construction companies but also private developers.

    This is understandable - the insulation has excellent sound absorption and perfectly retains heat. Minvata is an environmentally friendly, fire-resistant material. An insulator layer of 5 cm is able to retain heat just like half a meter thick brickwork.

    The main nuance during installation basalt insulation- arrangement of a vapor barrier to protect the material from moisture. The fact is that when mineral wool gets wet it loses its thermal insulation properties.

    If it is decided to use this insulation for insulation, then do not spare funds for the purchase of vapor barrier material and special membranes.

    How to insulate with mineral wool

    The walls of a frame house are insulated using a crate, the cells of which should be in increments of 60 cm - this is essential, since stone wool is produced in a roll of this size. The insulator must be cut so that the cotton wool enters between the bars with effort and does not sag.

    The thickness of the material is chosen based on the weather conditions in the region. If the climate is harsh, then it is better to use layers 20 cm thick; in mild climates, 5-10 cm is enough.

    With multilayer insulation, cold bridges may appear, in order to exclude them, plates of 5 cm are laid in two layers, in cells. It should be understood that the guide bars should be with a section of 10x10. The second two layers of material are laid on top of the frame bars.

    Insulation of a frame house with mineral wool implies mandatory vapor barrier, but since outer wall buildings are already equipped with this material, then before installing the insulation it can be omitted.

    After laying the insulator, you need to take care of protecting the mineral wool from condensation vapors. The vapor barrier material is sold in rolls, and it will not work to lay it with one sheet, so we purchase construction tape for gluing the joints.

    Floor insulation in a frame house is made with the same basalt wool. Only in this case, the insulator layer should be at least 20 cm. The work is carried out as when insulating frame walls.

    Thermal insulation with ecowool

    An environmentally friendly and affordable insulation for frame houses, in the production of which waste from the production of cellulose products is used: paper, cardboard. Ecowool is 80% fiber and 10% antiseptic, which protects against the development of fungal formations and microorganisms. In order for the insulation to be less flammable, 10% of special additives are introduced into its composition.

    Ecowool - disadvantages

    Private developers very rarely use this material to insulate their buildings. Ecowool has a number of features that some builders consider to be disadvantages:


    Strictly observe the norms for filling surfaces with insulation, which the manufacturer recommends, otherwise, in the process of shrinkage, areas without insulation may form.

    Positive characteristics of ecowool

    Many may think that such a process as insulating a frame house for winter living using ecowool is inappropriate, there are a lot of disadvantages of this material.

    But with strict adherence technological processes application, the positive characteristics of the material are significantly enhanced:

    • Low material consumption makes it cost effective.
    • Ecowool has good sound-absorbing properties.
    • The best insulation is made from natural raw materials, which determines its environmental friendliness and safety for people living in the house.
    • The composition gets its combustion resistance thanks to additives, and it is worth studying the composition of the product before purchasing. If such components as boric acid and ammonium sulfate are included in the composition, then it is better to refuse its use. These components give the ecowool an unpleasant and persistent smell, while the fire resistance of the material practically does not decrease. You should buy only the product that contains borax.
    • The material is laid without seams, which is a huge plus, since there are no cold bridges, and insulation wooden house it turns out to be of high quality and reliable.

    But the decisive factor that speaks of the importance of using cross-insulation of a frame house from the inside with this material is the inexpensive cost in a duet with positive characteristics.

    Thermal insulation of a frame house with ecowool - a technological process

    As you already know, you can insulate a frame house in two ways - "wet" and "dry". You can spray the material on the walls simply by diluting it with water or glue, then you get an excellent result. But most private developers follow a simpler path, and use a "dry" method of insulation, which we will consider.

    So, we insulate the frame house with our own hands, ecowool according to the following algorithm:

    • First of all, we will undertake to heat-insulate the floor in the house, for this a pressed briquette of material weighing 15 kg must be loosened well, for this you can use an ordinary drill with a special nozzle. After these actions, the volume of the material will be three times larger;
    • thermal insulation of the floor of a frame house is quite simple - the material is poured onto the rough covering between the beams with a slight excess, which will be taken by the weight of the board for the final covering;
    • proceeding to the walls. Before the start of insulation, a frame is constructed from bars of the desired section. A vapor barrier is fixed to the racks, an indispensable element for insulation with ecowool. The frame is covered with OSB sheets in such a way that there is a gap on top for filling the insulation. The material will thicken under its own weight as it falls asleep, and from above it should be well tamped.

    Work on the thermal insulation of a frame house with ecowool is worth stocking up with protective equipment: gloves, glasses and a respirator. You can significantly optimize the process by renting equipment that loosens the material and blows it off ready-made.

    Linen based insulation

    Linen has excellent heat-retaining properties, this is achieved due to optimal combination density and porosity of the material.

    Linen insulation is produced in several configurations:

    • slabs can be used to insulate a frame house from the inside;
    • linen strips of a structure made of glued beams;
    • heap will hammer the walls of the log.

    Due to its high density, this insulator is used for insulating roofs, floors, partitions and attic floors, which equip recreation areas.

    A flax fiber heat insulator can be considered the most preferable for insulating a house from the inside - it is environmentally friendly, serves for more than 70 years, does not rot, and mold does not form on it. Unlike ecowool, it is not subject to shrinkage.


    Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene - which is more practical

    The choice of insulation for a frame house is not an easy task, you need to take into account many nuances. As for such heat insulators as expanded polystyrene and polystyrene, both materials are successfully used to insulate a house from the inside and outside.

    Polyfoam, of course, is inferior to its counterpart in some positive properties, but, it is so cheap that many private developers prefer to use this material for home insulation.

    Among the minuses it is noted:

    • low level of noise insulation;
    • when burning, toxins are released;
    • the material is susceptible to rodent attacks.

    Thermal insulation of the facade with foam plastic

    • Insulation of a frame house from the outside begins with the preparation of the surface, which needs to be leveled, the cracks are repaired, and primed with deep penetration impregnation.
    • After the facade has dried, it is necessary to mount direct suspensions on it, which will not allow the slabs to slide off the surface, they will be securely fixed.
    • Five points of glue are applied to the foam, the edges are coated around the perimeter.
    • The slab with glue is pressed tightly to the surface, acting from corner to corner.
    • The second row of foam boards is staggered.

    The composition of the glue is prepared in such a way that it can be worked out in an hour.

    The material inconsistency is adjusted with a heated knife; when gaps are formed, they are sealed with the following compounds:

    • crushed foam is added to the glue;
    • pour penoizol;
    • apply polyurethane foam.

    For the strength of the structure, the heat insulator should be attached to the surface with plastic dowels, 5 pcs. on the stove. After that, you can apply any facing material.

    Thermal insulation of the frame structure from the inside

    The scheme of insulating a frame house from the side of the room is similar to the previous version. The only difference is in the soil used - you need a composition for internal work with antiseptic properties.

    When using a heat-insulating insulator from the inside, a simple tile adhesive, coupled with dowels, is used as an adhesive.

    Installed foam plates are tightened with an overlapping reinforcing mesh, if it is supposed to putty the surface, but drywall is often used for wall cladding. This method of thermal insulation is much easier than insulating a frame house using ecowool.

    Penoplex

    Not sure what is the best way to insulate a frame house? Buy penoplex - an analogue of polystyrene, only with a denser structure, therefore it costs a little more. It is also worth noting that this material is much more demanding during installation - you need to protect it from moisture and sunlight.

    In custody

    We built a frame house - insulation can be done both independently and with the help of a team of specialists. Is the building in a harsh climate? Apply cross-insulation, and how to choose an insulator, and how to properly insulate a frame house, we described in detail above.