What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Structures, wooden houses throughout the entire service life are distinguished by their instability. In other words, they tend to "dry out", which leads to some changes in the geometry of the building.

Feature of wooden houses

There is an unjustified opinion that shrinkage wooden house occurs only in the first year and then the process stabilizes. In reality, this period can last for at least five years. Therefore, you need to think in advance how it will happen installation of windows in a frame to avoid trouble in the future.

It is estimated that the height of a timber wall can be reduced by 15 mm per meter, i.e., if the height of the room is 3 meters, then during the shrinkage time it will decrease by 4.5 cm. You do not need to have a building education to predict the consequences for the window frame. Even if you leave the standard 20-25mm foam gap, the frame will at least deform, leading to jamming of the sashes.

But be that as it may, the installation of window structures in wooden house- quite doable task subject to the installation of the casing or, as it is also called, little wiggles... Its function is to make the frame independent from the walls of the house, which is especially important in the final phase of construction. Moreover, the window in general scheme constructions performs certain tasks:

strengthens and fixes the geometry of the window opening;
does not prevent wall shrinkage;
prevents vertical displacement in the opening.

Casing options

Exists several ways of device okosyachki (casing) at installation of windows in a wooden frame, some are quite within the power of self-execution:

with a mortgage bar;
groove in the wall;
a thorn in the wall;
okosyachka with a "quarter".

The easiest option for implementation is with embedded bar 50X50 mm... Its essence lies in the manufacture of a groove in the logs on the sides of the window opening. The joint of the knot is insulated with linen fiber. For the manufacture of a U-shaped window, a board is used 50Х150 mm.

The box is fastened on the sides into a bar, the end part is fixed to the crown. The upper part should provide clearance for shrinkage of 50-80 mm, which is filled with insulation.

Technology "Groove in the wall" uses a bar in which a thorn is carved. For its fastening, a groove is cut in the side of the opening. The side components of the box with mandatory insulation are installed first, then they are attached to the lower rim. The upper jumper is fixed by the swivel between the sieges.

Method "Thorn in the wall" or, as the masters call him, siege in the "deck", requires more thorough preparation from the performer than those described above. Here, in the side openings, a spike is made on both sides. Then the insulation is laid and the side boards of the window with a prepared groove are already mounted on it. The rest of the work is carried out similarly to the previous ones.

Due to the presence of a ridge or groove, the logs, when shrinking, simply slide inside the structure, without causing any damage to the frame.

Important! In no case should we forget that the assembled box should be 50-80 mm less than the opening in height. Filling this gap is allowed only with insulation, the use of polyurethane foam is unacceptable!

How is the installation of PVC windows in a wooden frame

Installation of metal plastic windows structures in a house made of wood is practically no different from those described above. The same installation rules, with the indispensable observance of the necessary thermal insulation.

The installation process is carried out according to the points:

installation of the lower bulkhead of the casing in the opening;
laying roll tow on the ridges;
installation of side casing elements;
installation of the upper jumper;
installation of a PVC window.

The assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws, wherein it is important not to screw it into the comb, i.e. choose the right length. Otherwise, the meaning of the design is lost.

The gap between the walls of the opening and the window after installation of windows in a wooden frame should be filled with strips of small thickness, pre-wrapped with tow. As the house shrinks, they are changed to thinner ones or removed. For the convenience of this operation, the platband should only be attached to the casing.

The completion of the process is rightfully considered installation of framing... In houses from rounded logs, a sample is usually made for a platband. This will get rid of unaesthetic gaps and give window system a single finished form.

Before ordering windows, it is necessary to make accurate measurements of the opening, taking into account all structural elements. The angle of turn of the slopes should be laid at the design stage. Exact adherence to the technology guarantees the safety of the components throughout the shrinkage of the house.

Do-it-yourself installation of windows will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything right, otherwise the savings will be questionable. For wooden houses, there are some peculiarities that you should be aware of.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

It is advisable to adequately assess your strength in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

- absence of casing - a house made of timber "walks" during shrinkage and begins to put pressure on the window frames;

- the use of polyurethane foam in the shrinkage gap between the apex in the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very tough and will transfer pressure from the upper beams to the window frame, negating the functions of the casing;

- incorrect calculation of the size of the frame of a plastic window - not taking into account the mounting gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

- too large a gap between the frame and the wall - with simple foaming of such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
- lack of external protection of the mounting gap - foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, from the outside it is better to close the gap with PSUL tape, which protects the foam from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

- lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in the insulating properties;

- placement of a window in the "cold zone" - is the cause of freezing of slopes and the formation of condensate on the inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save money and order the installation of windows. For an experienced builder, do-it-yourself installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that PVC window manufacturers don't talk about

Tightness and high noise insulation plastic double-glazed windows served as an undoubted advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in the living quarters is constantly increasing, and thanks to the leaky wooden frames, a constant flow of fresh air is ensured. Of course, too large gaps can strongly cool out the house, so euro windows have long been a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One of the options is to make forced ventilation. But in the absence of vents, this can be problematic - a lot of redoing will have to be done.

It is for such cases that window supply valves were invented - special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and screw the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for the owners wooden houses- Firms that install plastic windows often do not give a guarantee for their work, motivating this with the unpredictability of the behavior of the tree. So even with the observance of all the installation rules, you can find that after a few years the windows stopped opening. And it will not work to sharpen the plastic with a file.

Manufacturing of casing (okosyachki)

The first thing to start with the installation of windows is from the installation of the casing. But is it always needed and how to do it correctly?

When you can do without a window

A new wooden house made of logs or beams will shrink in any case. And the seasonal heaving of the soil has not been canceled. In this case, the shedding is mandatory - it will protect the window from distortions, twisting or bending.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - a 50 mm thick edged board and a 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm edged bar. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in frame house You don't have to do the jar - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. In a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, some builders also do not mount the casing, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind in your home, it is better to do it, this process is not so complicated.

How to make casing correctly

The last option is the most time consuming, but also the most reliable. If there are doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to casing in a foundation block. For this:

- In the window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical grooves with a size of 5x5 cm are selected. This can be done both with a chainsaw and a hand-held circular saw, a chisel and an ax. The second option is preferable if the hand is not full for precise work with a chainsaw.

- On top of the mortgage bar is laid edged board and is flush-mounted with self-tapping screws - two at the top and two at the bottom. For this, a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the screw cap is pre-drilled.
- If the casing option "spike-monolith" is chosen, then the previously sawn T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and is also screwed in with self-tapping screws.
- Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the top 5 cm thick laid on them is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrinkage gap.
- The vertex should enter the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in the horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.
- Insulation is placed in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. In no case should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-proof films - the accumulated condensate will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how the siege is done "in the deck":

When the window is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows itself is not very difficult, but it requires strict adherence to the technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense and the frame will warp.

Inspection of the delivered insulating glass unit

In no case should you neglect this moment! First, the dimensions of the window opening and the glass unit are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a support profile (sweet clover) of 3 cm.Thus, the gap from above will turn out to be 1 cm. he needs to leave space when calculating the window. It is needed so that the window sill can be installed from the inside, and the low tide can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, it is imperative to check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often "lost", as windows are carried without them. But the pins are special fasteners, you need to select it yourself.

Their length should be such that, when fully screwed in, they reach only to the middle of the casing plate. And this is taking into account the gap. If the dowel is screwed into the wall of a wooden house, the window will begin to deform, regardless of the presence of a window.

Often they do not pay attention to small elements - decorative trim fittings and drainage holes. They will also have to be counted. But the window sill and ebb tide must be ordered - forgetting to clarify their need, you may find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glasses themselves - their presence can be seen only by disassembling the glass unit.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. The wedges are convenient because, due to their different sizes, you can set the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the required thickness under the corners and posts.

Dismantling and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished insulating glass unit is brought in assembled form. But in order to install it, you will have to disassemble everything to the frame. For this:

- in a closed form, the upper pins holding the swinging sash are removed with a special key;
- the window handle is inserted, the sash opens and is removed from the lower mounts;
- the glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and the double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and an ordinary knife;
- you need to remember or designate the right and left glazing beads;
- the protective film is removed from the outside - under the influence of the sun, it will not come off in a few months;
- external elements are mounted - holders of mosquito nets and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
- holes are drilled for pins - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

As soon as the preliminary preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation.

Frame installation and assembly of plastic windows

At first, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, temporary jibs nailed from the outside. But it's much easier to do everything with an assistant - he just holds the frame until it is level and bolted to the casing. The installation of the frame also requires adherence to the correct sequence:

1. The lower edge is leveled - the laser level is more convenient in this regard. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack so as to achieve a perfectly level position. Even minimal misalignment will create operational problems.
2. Side braces are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally "falls out" of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that you need to install it in a "warm" zone - for wooden walls without external insulation, it is clearly in the middle.
2. Once the frame is level, you can start fixing it, starting with the side posts. First, holes are drilled in the tree through those already made in the frame, and then the dowels are nailed. First, the top and bottom, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
3. Once the frame is fixed, the ebb is attached to the outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The ebb is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and under it the gap is filled with foam.

1. Decorative overlays are put on the sash fasteners. The lower ones are worn on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

1. Double-glazed windows are installed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the rest against the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

1. The assembly seam is foamed around the perimeter.
2. A window sill is being installed. To do this, a ready-made window sill is placed on the window sill, wedges are placed under it for leveling. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are coated with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. The window sill is put again, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

In some cases, they do the opposite - first they install the window sill, adjust it to the level and screw it with pins to the casing. And only then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, it is no longer necessary to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the material of the window sill must withstand the action of the external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb tide from the outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.

As soon as the polyurethane foam has frozen, you can start finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option, which even girls can cope with, is to close them with plastic panels. For this you will need:

L-shaped or starter profile - it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
decorative plastic corner - it covers the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed on with self-tapping screws;
the plastic lining itself for the slopes.

And you don't even need to foame anything. But in order to provide the necessary protection for the assembly seam and good insulation, it is necessary to lay insulation between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. From the outside, the seam is closed with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And for the windows to please with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect polyurethane foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being pulled away by birds. You do not need to restrain your soul impulses if you want to start doing something with your own hands. And everything will definitely work out!

How are their openings formed in the frame of wooden houses, how are the boxes attached for them, and will the violation of its integrity not affect the structure of the frame? Let's take a closer look at the installation process in order to answer these questions.

Specifications

Features of wooden houses

Wooden houses, tanhouses, log cottages - this is a very good, inexpensive, and therefore a popular option for summer cottages. When purchasing good plastic windows for such a house or cottage, one should take into account one really very important feature that must always be taken into account in any installation of PVC windows in any wooden structure.

A wooden house, even if built from well-dried wood, will shrink for some time after construction. This is the design feature of the material, in which the shrinkage of the house will occur within several weeks, due to the natural drying of the tree (logs, beams).

Only during the first year after the initial construction, the log house sits 1-1.5 centimeters for each meter of the building's height. If this log house was built from an insufficiently dried forest, you should know that the tree itself will completely give up moisture in about 5 years, in a temperate climate, drying out by about 5-10 millimeters in diameter.

The tree will dry out all the time while your house or cottage is standing. Of course, with age, these fluctuations in humidity and dryness will be less significant, but possible strong changes the dimensions of the logs (or beams) should be taken into account when accurately designing window openings in an old wooden house. Thus, unlike such components as a door closer or fittings, the process of choosing the dimensions of PVC windows for installation in a log house is directly tied to the shrinkage processes and the best solution would be to entrust this matter to professional specialists.

Windows are an integral part of almost any building. How are their openings formed in the felling of wooden houses, how are the boxes attached for them, and will the violation of its integrity not affect the structure of the frame? Let's take a closer look at the installation process in order to answer these questions.

how to install a window in a log house

So, in order for the logs not to disintegrate and not to damage the structure, it is necessary to observe a certain technology, which does not represent anything complicated.

First of all, before the opening is cut out, it is necessary to strengthen the boards on its sides.

To begin with, the contours of the opening are placed on the wall, for which you need four boards, the size of which is determined by the diameter of the log (it is best to use channel # 12 for this).

The length of the boards should be on the order of 2-4 more than the height that the marked opening has. You will also need M12 studs (4 pcs.) With metal washers and nuts.

After that, boards are vertically attached to the walls, through the holes of which and through the logs, pins are passed, thus tightening the boards with nuts. Metal washers are placed under the nuts to prevent the nuts from cutting into the boards. And, of course, the boards are fixed on both sides in the marked opening.

Upon completion of the installation of the boards, the process of sawing the opening begins, which will significantly speed up the use of the chainsaw. If it is not there, then one log is removed from the opening with a drill, ax or chisel. It is best to remove the top log to facilitate the further cutting process.

After that, they begin to create window blocks, each of which includes two jumpers and two jambs. On the outside, grooves are made the size of thorns.

How to install windows in a log house

An integral attribute in the construction of a house are windows, which can be made of wood, metal structures and various kinds of polymers. Despite the fact that the installation process seems simple, it can bring a lot of frustration, if you do not take into account certain patterns when working with wood products. The principle here is the same and it does not matter what the house is made of, from a log or a bar. In both cases, a casing block is placed in the window opening.

You will need

Bar 50mm;
- edged board;
- square;
- plumb line;
- chain Saw;
- polyurethane foam;
- nails.

Instructions

1 Mark the window opening using a plumb line. In this case, a simple building level is not enough.

2 To cut out a window opening, it is better to use a chain saw, of which there is now a large selection in specialty stores. Saw the opening to size with a saw so that the hole captures at least half of the upper and lower logs in the frame.

3 Using a chain saw, circular saw, or better yet a router, select a 50mm wide and 50mm deep groove at the end of the wall. With a chisel and a chisel, manually clean the ends of the groove and beat in a block of 50mm. It is important to take into account the moisture content of the log house. Either it is a fresh log house or already standing-shrunken. In the presence of a log house made of fresh wood, the length of the bar should be 5 cm less than the length of the groove. In case the log house has shrunk by 2cm.

4 Take a 50mm wide board and nail it to the block. The width of the board should correspond to the thickness of the log in the frame.

5 Beam planks to the upper and lower logs, which will form the window opening. It is better to use special nails for this, which are then drowned and the holes can be treated with putty.

6 To accurately determine the angles, use a square when installing the window frame.

7 Place the window on the foam. Using a clapboard, close the window from the outside around the perimeter. Close up with a layout from the inside.

8 Sheathe the window opening with a board. Beam the board only to the lower log so that it does not create obstacles when the log shrinks.

9 Mount the window on self-tapping screws and foam. Polyurethane foam is best chosen in relation to weather conditions. It must be remembered that ultra-violet rays have a destructive effect on polyurethane foam.

10 All wooden components must be impregnated with an antiseptic, which is sold in a wide range in hardware stores. Adhering to this technology and the procedure for installing a window in a log house, you will independently cope with this seemingly difficult task.

How to correctly insert a window into a wooden house

It was possible to insert windows into the log house both as wooden as a carpenter, and m.p. There is an unpleasant moment - the shrinkage of the log house. The shrinkage of the ousted house takes about 7 years. It is recommended to install windows after three years, provided that the timber is not glued. With glued laminated timber, the possibility of installation is allowed after 6-8 months, depending on the technology of building a log house. But with all the above mentioned points, the main component in the installation of windows in a log house is the manufacture and correct installation of the casing box, carpenters also call it (black box) This is a box that is made from edged boards to exclude possible deformation of the window in the walls from the log house. It is advisable to make the box clean and with a window-sill board for further priming and painting. For the manufacture of slopes in this technology is not provided. A very important point when installing the casing is the precise installation of two vertical floating struts. Distances of 50-70mm are left on the sides.

It is advisable to make racks from a single piece of wood, but the budget option (assembly on nails from 2 elements) also has the right to life. In most cases, a 100 mm beam is used for the racks. Elegant (50 mm) racks are used only with not very large volumes of the window block (less than 1000x1000 mm).

It is desirable to maintain the expansion joint in the upper horizontal part of the window 100-150mm. The substantial width is due to the need to compensate for the horizontal settlement of the logs. In the first year, shrinkage has the ability to reach 30-50 mm, and after a certain number of years the gap may actually decrease to zero. If the initial size of the gap is unsatisfactory, the upper log will lie on the racks, and the drying of the laid logs will give rise to the expansion of the gaps between them and, as a consequence, to the formation of through cracks that will need to be caulked again. With all this, the "black" box will ensure the safety of the window, if it is not installed, then the destruction of the window block over the years is inevitable.

One more important point is an assembly seam. There are video materials on YouTube showing the filling of the assembly seam with foam. This can be done if your house has stood for about 7 years. Due to the possible shrinkage of a fresh log house, foam will not help business. But if the log house has an endurance or glued timber, then it is possible.

1 The upper compensation gap is filled with tow, and a strip of jute or linen insulation is attached by means of a stapler along the entire inner perimeter of the "black" box. The width of this strip must be 100 mm more than the thickness of the window frame.

2 The window frame is installed in the opening (quarter) from the street side, checked against measuring instruments in horizontal and vertical planes and fix long screws, can be placed on L-shaped corners. Fastening the window from the street side.

3 Excess insulation is tucked in and the gaps between the "black" box and the window block are caulked with it.

4 Insulation in the gaps is compacted using classic tools - a wooden wedge (caulking) and a mallet.

5 Mandatory installation wooden platbands covering the assembly seams both from the inside and from the outside of the window.

Needed tools:

For self-production and installation of a window block, the following main tools will come in handy:

Axe
Hammer
Hacksaws for wood
Two-handed saw
Various chisels (according to the width of the blade)
Planing power tools (manual, electronic, circular, etc.)
Chainsaw or power saw, for cutting out a window opening in the wall, picking a thorn.
Painting brushes
Measuring and marking tools (tape measure, square, pencil, level, plumb line)
Caulking machine (for caulking work).

Required materials:

Lumber, appropriate sizes
Fire-retardant impregnation.
Tow
Alkyd paint

This is a fairly simple operation that is feasible for almost any person who has the skills to work with the tool. In the photo on the left, you see the end result of the window inserted into the frame of the bath yourself. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a frame, sometimes called "casing", which is inserted into the frame and the window itself is inserted into this frame. The window is not homemade, purchased.

For the manufacture of the frame, ordinary floorboards with a width of

150 and 50 millimeters thick.

Wood is a loose, "breathing" building material - hence the rule that everything that you insert into the frame should not prevent the timber from changing its size. In order to fix the frame in the log house without rigid fastening, you need to cut the vertical grooves in the log house, insert the slats on the insulation there and attach the window frame to them.

After that, you just need to insert the window, align it and screw it on with self-tapping screws. So we get what can be seen in the picture on the left. This is a view of the window in the bath from the inside. At the top of the article, you can see it from the outside. There are only a few elements left to make this window more beautiful.

And so that this window is not a weak element in terms of decay of the timber logs, do not forget to use the appropriate tools at all stages, of which there are so many on sale now.

When erecting an individual residential building from logs or beams, the installation of windows into a frame was and remains one of the most difficult,
busy and responsible operations, which is explained by the specifics
construction of buildings from natural wood. The point is that in
assembled log house for quite a long time (within 5 - 8 years in
depending on the type of wood and its initial moisture content) occurs
draft. It is caused by the natural drying process of logs or beams and
seals under the load of inter-row filling. At the same time, in the first year, the sediment can reach a value of 3 - 5
cm! That is why our ancestors considered it necessary that either from wood of a different species stand for at least a year without
windows and doors until the walls of the house take a position close to
final, and only after that did the filling device begin
openings and decoration.
Why can't the window be fixed to the walls of the log house?
Now
few will agree to wait a year when it is worth finished house so the door
and window blocks are installed in such a way that the subsidence of the log house is not
had a negative impact on the construction of filling the openings: not
would jam the sash or canvas and not deform the boxes. For
this is done by special movable junction nodes of window and
door frames to timber or log walls that do not prevent them from moving freely
relative to each other. The main types of nodes of this kind are enough
are described in detail in publicly available narrative publications, or logs, however in most cases they
describe the technology for installing windows or doors adopted in a particular
companies rather than disclose general principles solving such a problem.
Walls
wooden house and window frames are two independent
structures, each working in its own way, therefore, the installation of windows in a log house begins with the preparation of openings. To compensate for shrinkage
lumber or
log walls, the openings are made larger than the dimensions
window or door frame. At the same time, on the sides and bottom of the window opening
gaps of 15 mm are left, and on top - about 60 - 70 mm. Exactly
the upper gap allows to perceive the shrinkage of the log house without transferring the load
on the window block. For the same reason, the construction of filling the openings is not
provide for rigid fastenings to the walls, and window frames are mounted in
pre-installed bezel - casing (casing) .

What is a siege and why is it needed?
Siege is a wooden frame, consisting of four boards thick
60 - 80 mm, framing the opening, while the lower one serves as a window sill, and
the other three act as slopes. Side elements have a longitudinal
a slot with a width of about 60 mm and a depth of about 20 mm, which serves
for the device of a flexible joint of the casing with the wall. This slot includes
either a ridge cut in the side end of the opening, or a special
the cranial block that forms the keyway between the wall and
casing. Such
the joint allows logs or beams to deform when the log house collapses,
gradually decreasing the size of the gap above the window and moving along the groove in
casing without transferring the load to the structure
filling openings. Also installed on the lower plane of the opening
bar, but its functions are different - it serves to prevent
blowing through the junction of the window sill and the wall.
Professional installation
windows in the frame assumes that all joint cavities will be sealed
insulation - tow, dense jute or other natural
materials. The use of polyurethane foam for this is not recommended.,
since in case of subsidence of the walls, the foam can tear off the surface and then
there will be a possibility of blowing or freezing. When installing the casing, first a window sill is installed on the level, then they are mounted on it
side elements, which are then covered with the upper block.

The final stage is the installation of wooden or plastic window frames.
The main
the requirement for the mounted box is horizontal and vertical
elements, as well as equal diagonals. Only this will ensure normal
installation and subsequent operation of the window frame. Gaps between the wall and
casing
closed with platbands, which are attached to the elements of the window frame.
The installation of windows in a wooden frame is completed by the installation of the actual window frames.
Before that, the sashes are removed from the window, and the frame is inserted into the opening with
fastening to the casing on special anchor plates. Junction points
imposts to the box are sealed with sealant. After that outside
the ebb is installed and the opening and closing are checked
windows.
Installation of modern metal-plasticwindows with double-glazed windows is performed in the same way:
casing installation;
fixation of reinforced-plastic frames in the casing using anchor plates and screws;
filling grooves and holes with polyurethane foam with the installation of a protective tape;
installation of a window sill, internal and exterior decoration slopes, installation of low tide;
checking and adjusting the knots of opening and constipation of the window.
Should
to focus on the fact that installing windows in a log house is a job
rather complicated, requiring professional skills, and therefore
the implementation is best left to a specialized company. Good luck to you!

Siege: purpose and types
Casing installation methods
Installation of metal-plastic windows in a log house
- Tools and materials for the installation of metal-plastic windows
Several specialist recommendations

The arrangement of windows during the construction of a wooden house has always been and remains one of the most responsible and complex tasks... The specifics of installing windows in a log house is such that it is not recommended to fasten them to the walls of a log house.

Within 5-8 years, a sludge occurs in the log house, caused by the process of natural drying of wood, and the compaction of the inter-crown filling under the load of the house's own weight. Only during the first year, the shrinkage of a house can be 3-5 cm. Therefore, in the old days, our ancestors allowed a house made of wood to stand without doors and windows for at least a year until its walls sag. And only then did they start filling the window and doorways.

Today, few agree to wait until the finished log house settles. Therefore, the installation of windows in the frame should be carried out so that the subsidence of the house does not in any way affect the filling structures of these openings: it does not deform the glass units or jam them. This can be avoided by installing special joints of door and window frames to the frame, which do not prevent their free displacement relative to each other.

The walls of a log house and window and door frames are two independent structures, each of which works in its own way. Installation of windows in a log house requires proper preparation opening. To compensate for the shrinkage phenomena of wooden wall structures, window and door openings must be made with larger dimensions than the dimensions of window and door frames.

First you need to decide on the height of the window sill. As a rule, it is equal to 80-90 cm. This height is optimal in order to comfortably lean on the windowsill. The window opening is cut out about 5 cm below the estimated height of the future window sill, since the thickness of the layer of polyurethane foam is 1-2 cm, and the thickness of the window sill itself is 3-4 cm.
Next, you need to place the horizontal and vertical lines of the window opening. The building level and plumb line will help in this.
The lower line of the window opening is placed along the level, and then the upper one. In this case, the height of the window opening should be at least 14 cm larger than the window itself, since the distance from the lower edge of the window opening to the window should be left 4 cm for the window sill and foaming, on top - 2 cm for foaming, and for the shrinkage of the house - 4-5 cm ...
When marking the vertical lines of the window opening, it is also necessary to take into account that it should be at least 14 cm wider than the window itself, of which 2 cm goes for foaming, and 10 cm for the casing (okosyachka).
A window opening is cut out according to the markup.

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Siege: purpose and types

The casing is a wooden frame, for the manufacture of which 4 boards with a thickness of 60-80 mm are used. The bottom board is a window sill, the other three are slopes. In the side elements, a longitudinal slot is made with a depth of 20 mm and a width of 60 mm. This slot is necessary in order to arrange a flexible joint between the casing and the wall. It includes a ridge made at the end of the opening, or a specially made cranial bar that forms a keyway connection of the casing to the wall. This joint, when the frame collapses, makes it possible for the bar or logs to deform, thus reducing the size of the gap above the windows and moving along the groove in the casing, while not transferring the load to the double-glazed windows. A bar is attached to the lower plane of the window opening, but its functions are different - it is necessary to prevent blowing through the junction of the wall and the window sill.

All joints of planes must be sealed with insulation - tow or some other natural material. For these purposes, it is not recommended to use polyurethane foam, since in the process of subsidence of a log house, foam can come off the surface and cracks appear.

The installation of the casing begins with the installation of a level sill. After that, the side parts of the box are mounted and covered with an upper block.

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Casing installation methods

Image 1. Installation of windows in a jar using an embedded block.

Installation of windows in a window using a foundation block (image 1):

On both sides in the logs, a groove is cut out for bars with a section of 50x50, and the bars themselves are installed. The joints between the bars and the surface of the logs are insulated with tow or other heat-insulating material.
A U-shaped window box is mounted, the so-called jib made of boards with a section of 50x150 or 50x20 mm and is fixed in the window opening to the bar. From below, the ends of the boards are attached to the crown.
At the top between the horizontal board and the upper part of the wall of the opening, a gap of 5-8 cm is made and filled with insulation (in no case fill it with foam).

Installation of a window into a groove in a wall made of logs (image 2):

Glued laminated timber with a section of 100x150 or 100x200 mm is used. A thorn element is made in it. A groove is cut on the side.
The side parts of the window are mounted and the joints are insulated with tow. Then they are attached to the lower rim of the frame.
A horizontal board is attached between the side elements of the bobbin.

Picture 2. Mounting the window into a groove in a wall of logs.

Mounting the window on a spike (image 3):

A 50x50 mm spike is made in the window opening in the wall and lined with insulation. After that, the side elements are inserted with a pre-cut groove.
Further, the installation is carried out in the same way as the installation of the window into the groove. The side parts are fixed to the lower rim, and in the upper part they are expanded with a board. In this case, it is also imperative to make a thermal gap.

Installation of a window into the casing with a quarter (image 4).

This mounting option is similar to mounting in a foundation block. The difference lies in the fact that it is necessary to make parts of a window of a special shape, which are a typical window quarter and are more aesthetic for houses made of timber or logs.

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Stages of installation of wooden windows in a log house

Picture 3. Mounting the window on the thorn.

Measurements of the window opening. The dimensions of the window opening with the window must be larger than the dimensions of the windows in the walls of brick or concrete, since there is no need to install the window there. As a rule, the casing is made of a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and these dimensions should be taken into account when calculating window openings. Gaps are left between the opening and the casing: 20 mm on the sides, 70 mm or more on the top.
Casing installation.
Window installation. Fastening a wooden window to a window is carried out using self-tapping screws or using anchor plates.

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Tools and materials for the installation of wooden windows in a log house

Instruments:

router and a set of cutters;
circular saw or circular saw;
plane;
screwdriver;
hacksaw for wood;
a set of chisels;
hammer;
rasp;
mallet;
abrasive paper;
level;
roulette;
square.

Materials:

shaped board with a section of 50x125 and more - for the manufacture of a frame;
timber with a section of 50x60 and more - for sashes;
triangular and rectangular glazing beads, the height of which should be 10 - 12 mm;
two window hinges and one locking handle for one window sash;
glass 4 mm thick;
self-tapping screws for wood 4x60 mm: for a window frame - 8 pcs. for the sash - 4 pcs.;
glue for wood.

Wooden houses, baths, saunas and summer cottages have an important advantage - they are completely environmentally friendly, since they are made of natural material. A wooden blockhouse is "alive", it "breathes", settles down and grows old, that is, it lives its own life. A house made of natural wood gives air circulation, simultaneously purifies it and gives healing properties, thanks to phytoncides and resinous substances of natural pine wood. The same features of buildings made of lightly processed wood create some difficulties. For example, when it is required to install windows in a log house and doorways, as well as when finishing sagging walls, but if the installation technology is observed, all these problems can be solved.

Which windows are suitable for wooden walls

The walls of solid wood houses tend to be in some motion. This is influenced by the time of the year, seasonal changes, humidity of the air and the environment - the blockhouse swells or dries up, sitting down. Some of the usual standards for installing windows and doors are acceptable for a log house, so a different design for the frame recess is needed here, known as a cage. It makes it possible to minimize the movement of wooden walls of houses, baths and other residential buildings made of logs.

However, not everything is so difficult, since the main shrinkage occurs during the first 3 years - under its own weight, the space between the logs is compacted and the wood naturally dries out. Sometimes, during this time, the log house sinks by 10-15 cm, and the window and door openings are reduced accordingly. Therefore, it is natural that for a new building made of natural wood, wooden windows in a log house are more suitable, and for older houses - plastic ones, then they will be less susceptible to excessive pressure and deformation.

If the construction of a house has been going on for more than one year, stage by stage, then even unprepared "live" wood will sit down during this time, and the installation of windows in a timber frame will not be problematic. As a last resort, you can install temporary frames with a film, preventing the penetration of precipitation into the window opening. And after a while, window frames with double-glazed windows can be put into a wooden blockhouse to protect against adverse weather factors. It can be frames made of specially prepared dry wood, and plastic, familiar to the townspeople.

Modern plastic windows laminated under natural wood will organically fit into the design of the log house, increasing the thermal insulation of the house. The experience of Finnish installers shows that a plastic window in a log house or double wooden frames can be easily inserted into a window, and different materials for window frames can be combined.

What is important to know about installation technology

Today, prestigious two-storey houses different types. They are built in eco-style according to the traditions of ancestors and according to the projects of modern architects and designers. Increasingly, they began to offer wooden houses and saunas of the Finnish type, and stylization of country houses like a Russian tower is also in vogue. No less interesting are the large estates in scandinavian style- made of wood and glass. It doesn't matter if the building will be pompous or a small cottage made of wood with your own hands - the technology for installing wooden windows in a log house is about the same.

Of course, damp wood is not very suitable for building the walls of a wooden house. Finns use only dried and specially prepared wood for export houses, and also develop special technology for houses that are quickly assembled. According to the technology, window frames are not placed in the log house for at least six months after the assembly of the prepared structures, and even later in the "living" wood. But even in this case, some shrinkage is taken into account - do not leave the same building without windows.

The holding time is required for the shrinkage of the log house and the final formation of the wooden walls, and after about a year, the log house will acquire close to the maximum shrinkage parameters. However, it is impossible to accurately name the technical characteristics of shrinkage (in percentage or in millimeters), since everything depends on the type of wood and the degree of its moisture content.

Today, several options for installing windows in a log house have been worked out:

1. The most reliable method is the installation of the casing (casing), where the window is inserted. The cage is a solid rectangular structure made of solid wood up to 40 mm thick, in which the lower bar forms a window sill, and platbands are attached to the ends. For a long time, they were made from solid wood, giving the required shape, where the grooves for the window frame are formed. Today, the shedding is done much more technologically and looks more aesthetically pleasing, and a glue bar is used for its production. Finished construction casing is quite expensive, therefore, they often use a more affordable technology for installing a window into a frame, that is, attachment to the cranial bars.

2. There is another option - the window frame is attached directly to the timber with special fastening strips. Simple methods are used, most often, in the log cabins of baths and saunas, and in residential buildings - more complex and reliable. Using the building level, the window frame is set with respect to the distances and foamed with a sealant. However, the method of installation with sealing in new walls of houses is not used. Foam is recommended to be used to seal the lower part of the frame and the window sill - this plane is less susceptible to deformation during shrinkage of a wooden window in a log house.

3. Often, special (cranial) strips are used, inserted into grooves that move freely in the ends of the window opening. This counteracts shrinkage seizure without crevice formation. Thanks to their construction, the skull slats are able to slide in the grooves, so the window will not experience pressure during shrinkage. The difference in the method is in attaching the casing to the cranial bar, and not directly into the opening.

Tip: Remember that after the initial shrinkage of the log house, the compaction of the wooden walls will continue for some time. In case of significant precipitation and in a climate with a high level of air humidity, the base of the frame will continue to absorb water, increasing the volume of the frame. In hot and dry summers, the tree gives off moisture, giving a significant shrinkage. That is, natural changes in the size of a log house, for example, from pine, will be noticeable up to 5 cm, but this indicator also changes depending on the time of the felling. The installation of windows using special technology reduces the likelihood of skewing, displacement of the base and jamming of the sashes and reducing heat loss.

Basic conditions for the use of casing

1. Log casing makes it possible to prepare the installation of a window into a formed box, which minimizes the pressure of the log frame to the window frame through the natural drying process of the wood.

2. Correctly made log casing prevents distortions in the form of shrinkage consequences.

3. There should be a small gap above the frame, about 50 mm, and it should be insulated together with the side gaps.

4. Simplified boarding can be made of boards with a thinner thickness of about 20 mm, where the forming slopes will be attached, and the lower board forms the window sill.

5. The casing is fixed with self-tapping screws on the cranial beam, and the gap is insulated under the platbands.

6. The cage from the outside looks quite compact and neat, and inside you can put another frame.

7. Competent use of the casing installation technology allows to counteract the depressurization of the window.

8. Fastening of external platbands allows the use of synthetic seals, including rubber, to exclude the penetration of moisture into the window space.

9. If you have any difficulties and questions - how to insert windows into a blockhouse, it is recommended to contact a specialist.

The main problems when installing doors and windows in a log house

1. According to the experience of assembling houses made of natural wood, even a structure made of specially prepared and well-dried material will shrink up to 5 cm in the first year. In stable rainy weather, the house will swell again. "Live" or undried wood with a high percentage of moisture gives a much larger amplitude per year.

2. Installation of windows or doors in a wooden frame is a technologically simple process, and specialists do not have any problems. However, difficulties and problems with a non-professional approach arise much later, when the windows in the bathhouse or in the house begin to warp due to the pressure during the natural drying of wood. That is, it is much worse when problems loom during the operation of the building.

3. The increased humidity of the air can lead to the fact that the window sashes or vents do not open due to the swelling of the wood with the increased pressure of the shrinking logs. Sometimes it is enough to slightly scrub the adjoining planes of the sashes, and it is worse if the window cannot be opened during the entire period of operation. It is for this that a small gap in the casing or the correct sliding structure is important - in order to avoid such troubles.

Tip: It is important to use dry and quality timber, preferably from softwood. Before cutting out window openings, it is important to strengthen the boards to its sides so that they do not part.

Instructions for processing a window opening

To complete the work you will need chain chainsaw, nails, hairpins, timber, edged board, square, plumb line and polyurethane foam.

1. On the wall of the log house, the contours of the window (door) opening are marked using 4 strips. In this case, it is important to correctly mark the lower part of the window - approximately 80 cm from the floor.

2. Boards are selected a little more than the height of the opening for fixing the studs with washers.

3. We make holes in the uncut crowns at the corners of the planned opening, in the same way in the fastening boards.

4. Mark the vertical with a level and attach boards along it, which we connect to the logs with the help of pins and tighten the boards.

5. Place metal washers under the nuts to prevent the nuts from cutting into the boards, fix the boards on both sides of the marking.

7. We proceed to processing the sawn logs and fasten the edges together with jumpers.

8. We form a window block from lintels and jambs in pairs, and from the outside we form grooves to the size of the thorns.

9. We begin to form the window block with the installation of jambs, with nails we connect the jumpers with the grip of the logs.

10. To check right angles, use a square that can be formed before the block is finally secured.

Tip: To dispel doubts, it is advisable to watch a video about installing a window, and only then proceed to installation.

Step-by-step execution of window installation

Today there are several ways to install window frames in a log house, but we will consider using the simplest example.

To begin with, you need to visually represent in a section what a window looks like in a log house - a diagram of installing a window in a log house is shown in the figure below.

This is a casing box with grooves, a shrinkage gap with a seal, an outer and inner casing, a spike with a seal, a window with an ebb, a lower inter-row seal.

Okosyachka is done after the formation of the opening:

prepare a 150x40 bar for the top of the window opening, it should be the width of the opening, cut 2 rectangular cutouts from both ends for a pre-formed ridge;
install the board over the carriage bar, securing it with self-tapping screws;
we make an opening of 3-5 cm more height an insertable window, for filling with a sealant or foaming from below;
the gap between the log and the flashing board in the window opening should be about 5 cm (for shrinkage), which is filled with insulation;
when the window is inserted and secured, a platband is attached to the window so that the structure has an aesthetic appearance;
do not forget to check both vertical lines of the window frame along the plumb line and horizontal lines along the level before installing the platbands and final installation, since it will be impossible to correct this later;
it is necessary to impregnate all wooden surfaces with an antiseptic to resist the destruction of wood.

The process of installing plastic windows in a log house

The step-by-step process of installing PVC windows looks about the same as in the example with natural wood:

we form a window opening;
we install the window;
we are completing the installation of a plastic window in a window using the technology.

The optimal distance of the window sill from the floor is 80-90 cm, and if the design in the interior is planned to use a window sill in the form of a countertop, for example, in the kitchen or in a teenager's room, then it is better to think over its design and installation in advance.

Tip: Remember that wooden frames are also characterized by partial shrinkage, and PVC windows have a rigid and stable base - they should not be placed in a fresh frame, and it is imperative to use a jamb. It will make it possible to maintain sufficient autonomy of the double-glazed window from the log house, therefore, installation on foam and without a jamb is unacceptable in this case!

There are two types of mugs:

1. Simple construction- at the end of the opening, a 50x50 mm groove is formed for a bar (not suitable for installing a PVC window).

2. A more reliable option is when a ridge is formed in the end logs on the window openings, on which a frame with a groove, otherwise called a "carriage", is placed on it, and here, during shrinkage, movement along the guides without deformations will be ensured. This is a construction made of 100x150 mm timber, which exceeds the window size by 5-6 cm, in the center of which a 50x50 mm groove is selected, the carriage is attached to the ridge.

Next, we assemble a jig from a 150x40 board, as described above, respectively, cut out the grooves in it, which are put on the comb - this is the upper part of the opening where we put the PVC window. Be sure to overlay the planks with tow (in rolls) and fix the carriages, and fix the upper plank of the jigs with self-tapping screws to the carriage.

After the right angles, vertical and horizontal lines in the openings have been verified, the window has been drawn up, they proceed to the installation of plastic windows. Pay attention to the quality of fastening and tightness, so as not to violate the thermal insulation of the windows in the frame. Do all the steps according to the instructions attached to the PVC windows. When buying plastic windows, pay attention to the fasteners that are mounted at the end. The frame is set in level and mounted with fasteners to the window, do not forget about the place for the foam under the windowsill. It remains to hang the sash and put the cashing.

Tip: Pay attention to how the window is screwed to the board - in no case to the ridge, otherwise the meaning of the movable fastening of the window to resist shrinkage is lost.

The arrangement of windows during the construction of a wooden house has always been and remains one of the most important and difficult tasks. The specifics of installing windows in a log house is such that it is not recommended to fasten them to the walls of a log house.

The walls of a log house and window and door frames are two independent structures, each of which works in its own way. Installation of windows in a log house requires proper preparation of the opening. To compensate for shrinkage wooden structures walls, window and door openings must be made with larger dimensions than the dimensions of window and door frames.

First you need to decide on the height of the window sill. As a rule, it is equal to 80-90 cm. This height is optimal in order to comfortably lean on the windowsill. The window opening is cut out about 5 cm below the estimated height of the future window sill, since the thickness of the layer of polyurethane foam is 1-2 cm, and the thickness of the window sill itself is 3-4 cm.
Next, you need to place the horizontal and vertical lines of the window opening. The building level and plumb line will help in this.
The lower line of the window opening is placed along the level, and then the upper one. In this case, the height of the window opening should be at least 14 cm larger than the window itself, since the distance from the lower edge of the window opening to the window should be left 4 cm for the window sill and foaming, on top - 2 cm for foaming, and for the shrinkage of the house - 4-5 cm ...
When marking the vertical lines of the window opening, it is also necessary to take into account that it should be at least 14 cm wider than the window itself, of which 2 cm goes for foaming, and 10 cm for the casing (okosyachka).
A window opening is cut out according to the markup.

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Siege: purpose and types

All joints of planes must be sealed with insulation - tow or some other natural material... For these purposes, it is not recommended to use polyurethane foam, since in the process of subsidence of a log house, foam can come off the surface and cracks appear.

The installation of the casing begins with the installation of a level sill. After that, the side parts of the box are mounted and covered with an upper block.

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Casing installation methods

Image 1. Installation of windows in a jar using an embedded block.

Installation of windows in a window using a foundation block (image 1):

On both sides in the logs, a groove is cut out for bars with a section of 50x50, and the bars themselves are installed. The joints between the bars and the surface of the logs are insulated with tow or other heat-insulating material.
A U-shaped window box is mounted, the so-called jib made of boards with a section of 50x150 or 50x20 mm and is fixed in the window opening to the bar. From below, the ends of the boards are attached to the crown.
At the top between the horizontal board and the upper part of the wall of the opening, a gap of 5-8 cm is made and filled with insulation (in no case fill it with foam).

Installation of a window into a groove in a wall made of logs (image 2):

Glued laminated timber with a section of 100x150 or 100x200 mm is used. A thorn element is made in it. A groove is cut on the side.
The side parts of the window are mounted and the joints are insulated with tow. Then they are attached to the lower rim of the frame.
A horizontal board is attached between the side elements of the bobbin.

Picture 2. Mounting the window into a groove in a wall of logs.

Mounting the window on a spike (image 3):

A 50x50 mm spike is made in the window opening in the wall and lined with insulation. After that, the side elements are inserted with a pre-cut groove.
Further, the installation is carried out in the same way as the installation of the window into the groove. The side parts are fixed to the lower rim, and in the upper part they are expanded with a board. In this case, it is also imperative to make a thermal gap.

Installation of a window into the casing with a quarter (image 4).

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Stages of installation of wooden windows in a log house

Picture 3. Mounting the window on the thorn.

Measurements of the window opening. The dimensions of the window opening with the window must be larger than the dimensions of the windows in the walls of brick or concrete, since there is no need to install the window there. As a rule, the casing is made of a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and these dimensions should be taken into account when calculating window openings. Gaps are left between the opening and the casing: 20 mm on the sides, 70 mm or more on the top.
Casing installation.
Window installation. Fastening a wooden window to a window is carried out using self-tapping screws or using anchor plates.

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Tools and materials for the installation of wooden windows in a log house

Instruments:

router and a set of cutters;
circular saw or circular saw;
plane;
screwdriver;
hacksaw for wood;
a set of chisels;
hammer;
rasp;
mallet;
abrasive paper;
level;
roulette;
square.

Materials:

shaped board with a section of 50x125 and more - for the manufacture of a frame;
timber with a section of 50x60 and more - for sashes;
triangular and rectangular glazing beads, the height of which should be 10 - 12 mm;
two window hinges and one locking handle for one window sash;
glass 4 mm thick;
self-tapping screws for wood 4x60 mm: for a window frame - 8 pcs. for the sash - 4 pcs.;
glue for wood.

Wood - natural construction material, it breathes, dries and as a result can:

change the size along the fibers depending on the ambient air humidity, while practically not changing the size in length;
when dry, deform due to internal stresses.

This process is called: within a few years after the construction of a house from a bar or a log, subsides. In the first year, the most noticeable shrinkage occurs, in the 3-5th year it can no longer be taken into account, but the process itself continues throughout the life of a wooden house.

By the degree of shrinkage, houses differ from each other: if the house is made of natural moisture or rounded logs will shrink 5-7%, then a house from - only 1-3%. The last option is the most stable. But there will still be shrinkage. And hardly anyone will agree to wait, even if only 3 years (for laminated veneer lumber), to put windows and doors in the house and start living there. It is important to foresee the loss of height in advance and to install the windows and doors correctly. The solution to the problem is simple - installation of a window.

Although the name is unprepossessing, it will keep your house and windows intact. After all, if, during shrinkage, the logs begin to sit unevenly (the rigid construction of windows and doors will interfere with them), then the logs and timber will inevitably begin to twist. Which will ultimately lead to the curvature of the walls and the formation of cracks, which will be almost impossible to fix.

Types of window boxes

Okosyachka, shedding or window box - timber framing around the perimeter of the opening in a wooden house, which does not interfere with the vertical shrinkage of the walls. As a rule, it is made of solid wood: spruce, pine, larch or oak. The structure is fastened in a side post to the groove, without using a rigid attachment to the load-bearing walls. A gap is left at the top to compensate for shrinkage.

U-shaped window frame, or "village-style" window. Suitable for all types of houses. A spike is cut out on a bar or on a log of the house, and a groove of the appropriate size is knocked out on the bar intended for the sidewalls of the window box. The vertical movement of the frame will follow this groove, which will act as a guide rail. A jumper is installed on top - the top.

T-shaped window frame... In this case, the groove, on the contrary, is knocked out in the wall logs or in the timber, and the spike is on the sidewalls of the window. It is believed that the T-shaped box is stronger.

How to make a window opening in a wooden house

It is optimal to make a window opening from a bar of the same size and the same type as the walls. So, for a house made of a bar of 150x150 mm, they take a well-dried bar of 150x100 mm for the sidewalls, 150x50 mm for the top and a window sill as the lower part of the window box. The gap on top is clogged with tow or thin boards wrapped in tow. In the second case, as the walls descend, the boards will need to be carefully knocked out.

It is most convenient to use a chain saw to cut the opening. Calculating the size of the slot is not an easy task, since you need to take into account: the size of the future window, the size of the window frame parts (approximately 50-60 mm on each side), the width of the installation gap (15 mm), horizontally, the height of the shrinkage gap is additionally taken into account (30-50 mm) and the height of the window sill.

Window frame installation

Prepared parts are treated with an antiseptic before installation. The crests of the logs are lined with insulation, which is fastened with small nails or staples. Tape heaters based on tow or flax fibers are suitable. Foam must not be used as the material must be able to shrink. As additional material you can use a sealant.

First, the lower crossbar or window sill is mounted, then the side posts of the window box. At the end, the upper jumper is inserted into the upper groove of the posts. After collecting the box, carefully connect it with self-tapping screws. It is important that they do not fall into the logs.

Installation of windows in a log house

It has no fundamental differences.

The frame is fixed in the box using self-tapping screws and special fasteners - anchor plates... They are attached to the window frame with self-tapping screws. It is unacceptable that the self-tapping screws, passing through the window trim, enter the ends of the walls. This will interfere with shrinkage and negate all your efforts. Double-glazed windows can be mounted directly through the frame, without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes from the frame during installation.

The window is set strictly according to the level, otherwise you will not be able to open and close it in the future. The slots that are visible in the opening after installing the casing must be filled with tow or insulation.

After the installation of windows and insulation, platbands are installed.

Typical mistakes when installing windows:

Installation of windows on polyurethane foam without using a window frame.
Using a thin board for a jig.
Using screws that are too long.
Rigid fastening of the window frame bars to the wall.
The expansion gap left between the window frame and the walls is too small, which should be 1.5-2 times the calculated shrinkage height.
The window frame was put into the log house too early: the window frame can be installed no earlier than a year after the log house was installed.