• What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

    Thermal insulation materials for a residential building are selected depending on the type of construction and the type of future cladding. We will tell you in detail how to insulate private house do it yourself in each case.

    Is it possible to insulate the house from the inside?

    If you do not want to live in a room where the humidity exceeds all permissible limits, and the corners are covered with layers of frost and black fungus, never insulate the building from the inside. Freezing of the walls in this case will occur due to the displacement of the dew point boundary - a section of a certain temperature at which the steam in the air begins to condense and turn into water.

    Moisture loss always occurs at the border between cold and warm air. Correct thermal insulation implies the obligatory displacement of this area outside the building. When insulating a building from the outside, a sharp temperature drop will be observed somewhere on the border of the insulation, that is, outside the room.

    When laying a heat insulator inside the house, the dew point will be located between the cold wall and the warm cladding, that is, in the building itself, which is unacceptable.

    Not too successful is the option in which a thin layer of insulation is selected with a small wall thickness. The dew point in this case will be closer to the center of the wall, which can also lead to freezing of the corners and condensation in the house.

    How to choose the thickness of the insulation?

    To reduce heat loss and ensure an acceptable temperature in the premises during insulation, the thickness of the walls, their heat-insulating properties, the type of foundation, the climate of the area and the prevailing wind loads are taken into account. With a sufficient thickness of walls made of materials with high heat-insulating properties (for example, made of bricks or logs), the facade insulation is not necessary.

    The thermal insulation of a house assembled from cinder blocks should be maximum - this material is not able to retain heat for a long time. When calculating the thickness of the walls, the thermal conductivity coefficient of the insulation itself is taken into account. Best performance possess materials such as polyurethane foam, polystyrene, mineral wool.

    For example, a 50 mm layer of polyurethane is able to retain heat in the same way as a 1720 mm brick.

    Professional builders use rather complex formulas to calculate the thickness of the insulation. When choosing a heat insulator for a private house, it is convenient to use online calculators. You only need to indicate the region of residence, the size of the building, the types of basement and attic floor, wall thickness and material, roof type.

    Even with a significant wall thickness, a small layer of insulation along the facade is still worth laying. Indeed, upon contact with cold air and temperature drops on their surface, cracks form over time, leading to premature destruction.

    When can you start insulating a building?

    In construction, there is a basic rule - it is necessary to start finishing works after the house has completely shrunk. This can take about a year. Moreover, shrinkage is given not only by wooden houses, but also by brick buildings, monolithic-frame buildings, etc.

    Installation of thermal insulation is preferably carried out in dry weather - the house is pre-dried well. The house should already have a roof, external waterproofing of the foundation, ventilation, windows, doors.

    You should not start work either in frost or heat - you must wait for a plus temperature of 5-25 ° C. Optimal time the beginning of the facade finishing - late spring or early autumn.

    Insulation of the facade. Basic ways

    There are several ways to decorate walls:

    • by creating ventilated curtain walls: fastening facing materials to the frame; a ventilation gap is formed between the insulation and the wall, which protects them from condensation and moisture accumulation
    • by plastering method: the system consists of 3 layers, heat-insulating (most often inexpensive foam is used, which is attached to a special adhesive), a reinforcing mesh and a decorative layer (plaster)
    • by means of ready-made plaster systems (thermal panels), heat-insulating materials with an already applied decorative layer
    • using siding (high-strength typesetting panels): in fact, the method is a kind of ventilated facades.

    What materials can be used to insulate the facade?

    The materials used for thermal insulation of walls must have a number of technical characteristics:

    • sufficiently low coefficient of thermal conductivity: store safely and not lose heat
    • low degree of water absorption- after all, when they absorb moisture, they almost completely lose their thermal insulation properties
    • resistance to decay
    • sufficient vapor permeability: the walls of the house must "breathe", that is, allow air to pass through and give off moisture; when the walls are closed with a heater with low vapor permeability, the humidity in the house will always be increased
    • strength and stability to wind loads, other physical influences
    • fire resistance: they should not be highly flammable
    • long service life

    Unfortunately, there are no universal heaters that fully meet these requirements.

    Each of them has both undeniable pros and cons:

    • Styrofoam: it is able to store heat for a long time, but it is very vulnerable to the action of ultraviolet radiation, plus it has low strength and fire resistance, therefore it requires additional finishing; moisture absorption average
    • penoplex: has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, moisture resistant, resistant to combustion; there are two drawbacks - poor vapor permeability and a fairly significant price compared to foam
    • mineral wool: its undoubted advantages include low thermal conductivity, high fire resistance; but, since this material quickly absorbs moisture, it requires mandatory waterproofing
    • warm plaster: a mixture based on cement, the sand in which has been replaced by heat-insulating components - sawdust, vermiculite, perlite, pumice or foam granules; further covered with a layer of decorative plaster
    • penoizol: in fact, it is a liquid foam - a light insulation, excellent heat storage, applied by spraying; its main disadvantages are poor resistance to aggressive chemical environments and fire
    • liquid polyurethane foam: it is also applied by spraying using special devices, filling every crack; it is very convenient to work with it on inclined planes when insulating the roof; but its cost is quite high

    When insulating a facade with foam, to increase the fire safety of a building, the so-called method of scattering plates using fire-resistant mineral wool is often used.

    Materials for insulation of the foundation

    The foundation that separates the soil and the structure is considered to be one of the main sources of heat loss. However, not all types of materials can be used to insulate it. Mineral wool or basalt slabs are not suitable for these purposes - they will absorb moisture from the soil and quickly become unusable.

    The most common basement insulation materials are:

    • expanded polystyrene: perhaps the ideal option in terms of price-quality ratio; if it is impractical to use it for wall decoration due to low vapor permeability, then a material that is not afraid of decay is ideal for warming the base; plus is lightweight and easy to install; high flammability in this case is not significant - after all, it is laid underground;
    • expanded clay: excellent environmentally friendly heat insulator; due to its high porosity, it forms an air cushion that reliably protects the base of the building from the cold; requires additional waterproofing with coating or roll materials; but the high cost does not allow it to be widely used as a heater for the foundation;
    • liquid polyurethane foam: It is similar in properties to expanded polystyrene, however, its independent use is impossible without special equipment.

    Thermal insulation materials for roofing

    As you know, warm air tends only upward. If the roof overlap is not sufficiently insulated, it will leave without hindrance, and the house will quickly get cold. If up to 15-20% of the heat escapes through the walls, then about 10-20% of it leaves through the roof. This fact should not be neglected.

    For thermal insulation of roofs, any kind of materials can be used, from mineral wool to slag or sawdust. When using expanded clay, it is most often mixed with foam granules - this helps to reduce the weight of the insulation and enhance its effect.

    Rolled eco, glass, mineral wool, as well as liquid polyurethane foam are used mainly for inclined surfaces. Rigid slabs and bulk insulation are used for laying on floor slabs.

    The thermal insulation of the roof must be thought out even before the building is laid - after all, when using heavy backfill materials, the load on the foundation will increase significantly.

    Range of heat insulators

    The range of heat-insulating materials sold on the market today is quite wide

    Let's consider only the main ones:

    Styrofoam (cellular plastic)

    Inexpensive material made on the basis of expanded plastic (mainly polystyrene). The excellent thermal insulation properties of the foam are due to the presence of multiple, individual granular cells, separated by partitions and filled with gas. A slab with a thickness of 8 cm is equivalent in heat protection to 25 cm of wood or 1.5 m of a brick wall.

    Polyfoam is lightweight, easy to cut, easy to install. Plates made of it are quite elastic and, unlike roll materials, do not sag over time.

    The density and strength of the foam depend on the technology of its processing and the type of raw material. For cladding facades, it is better to use a material of increased density - it crumbles less when cutting and has a longer service life.

    Despite the fact that the foam itself does not rot, colonies of microorganisms can easily be fixed on its rough surface, capable of transferring to other structural elements.

    Due to the tendency to ignite, as well as the ability to deteriorate under the influence sun rays this insulation must be covered with a layer of plaster or used in ventilated facades.

    Extruded polystyrene foam

    Despite the fact that expanded polystyrene, like polystyrene, is made on the basis of polystyrene, its technical characteristics differ significantly. If the foaming of the foam occurs under the influence of steam, then in polystyrene bulk granules are obtained by introducing a foaming reagent followed by forcing through an extruder. As a result, the material acquires a more uniform structure and strength.

    All of its air granules are closed, have the same size, therefore expanded polystyrene is less fragile than polystyrene foam.

    The service life of this material is up to 40 years. It has a minimum water absorption (up to 0.4%) and a lower thermal conductivity - on average, it is equal to 0.029-0.034 W / (m · K). The thermal insulation values ​​of expanded polystyrene are very high - even a thin sheet is enough to create a reliable barrier to cold.

    But nevertheless, since expanded polystyrene is not able to "breathe", it is better not to use it for wall decoration, otherwise they will get wet. The main purpose of expanded polystyrene is thermal insulation of plinths and foundation blind areas. Special high-strength material of increased density is used in construction as auxiliary or even supporting structures.

    Types of mineral wool

    Mineral wool is a group of materials of fibrous structure, which includes:

    • stone wool: obtained from the melt of rock minerals; it is she who is often called mineral wool; one of its varieties includes more moisture-resistant basalt wool
    • glass wool: thin fibers obtained from molten glass or sand during the heating process under the influence of ultra-high temperatures
    • slag: most cheap stuff, which is based on blast-furnace slag; due to increased hygroscopicity, it is not used for building insulation

    The advantages of mineral wool include:

    • high thermal insulation properties
    • low flammability
    • decay resistance
    • acceptable cost

    Most types of mineral wool absorb moisture and have low mechanical strength, so it must be covered with a vapor barrier and then sheathed with airtight sheathing.

    It is undesirable to use rolled mineral wool for finishing facades - it has less thermal protection plus shrinks, eventually forming "cold bridges". For finishing the building, it is better to use material in the form of dense slabs.

    Excellent technical characteristics plus reasonable price ensured sufficient demand for this material. This type of mineral wool has low thermal conductivity, almost does not absorb moisture, while due to the cellular structure it is able to "breathe", that is, let air through and remove condensate.

    Depending on the type of raw material and the method of production, it can have a different degree of rigidity. Stone wool is produced in the form of canvases, semi-rigid mats or high-strength slabs. Due to its high fire resistance and high degree thermal insulation is widely used in construction - it is used as a heater and sound insulator of facades, roofs of buildings, which has an increased risk of fire.

    It is allowed to use stone wool for insulating underground utilities, chimneys, cladding rooms with installed furnaces or boilers.

    In order to avoid the appearance of "cold bridges" when using any types of plate heaters, all seams must be additionally glued.

    Due to its low density and high hygroscopicity, it is not recommended to use it for facades. Plus, glass wool, under the influence of elevated temperatures, is capable of melting, completely losing its thermal insulation properties.

    This inexpensive roll material most often used for thermal insulation of pipelines and technical rooms.

    When working with it, special care is required - thin fibers, breaking off, fall on the skin, causing irritation. When inhaled into the lungs, small glass wool particles can provoke inflammation.

    This material is more expensive than ordinary stone wool, but it is more durable and voluminous. Another advantage is the lower degree of moisture absorption and shrinkage. Formaldehyde, which is part of the basalt canvases, is able to scare off rodents, which often settle in insulation.

    They easily withstand significant temperature drops without loss of quality, do not rot, do not ignite. Their heat-insulating properties are also high.

    Basalt wool has a significant drawback - high fragility. Therefore, you need to work with it carefully, be sure to wear protective clothing, glasses and a respirator. Dust from sawing can irritate the skin. It is also capable of settling in the lungs.

    Just as in the case of stone wool, it is better to use a more durable slab material for cladding facades. Basalt wool is applied and by spraying using special equipment- in this case use special kind material in the form of granules.

    Thermal panels

    Facade thermal panels are already ready-made systems consisting of two layers: thermal protection and facing. They do not require any additional finishing or painting. As a heater, polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene is often used.

    The decorative layer is usually made of brick-like clinker tiles or colored marble chips. Recently, products with a porcelain stoneware finish have also been produced. Thermal panels are allowed to be mounted on any kind of walls from concrete, brick to timber or cinder blocks.

    Their technical characteristics and service life depend on the material of manufacture. Installation of such structures is simple - they are simply attached to the profiles.

    Improved versions of thermal panels have a side fastening of the thorn-groove type, excluding the appearance of cold bridges. Such panels do not require additional processing of seams and filling them with mortar.

    Up to 20-30% of heated air can escape from the house through poorly insulated windows and doors, so do not forget about careful finishing and plastering of the slopes. It is also necessary to think over the ventilation system - if it is incorrectly installed, up to 30-35% of the heat can go away.

    Thermal insulating plaster

    This type of heat insulator is another novelty in the construction market. The main binder in it is lime or Portland cement. Various stabilizers and plasticizers are also added to them. But the main component (up to 40-75%) in thermal insulation plaster is porous insulation in the form of foamed perlite, vermiculite or foam balls.

    A layer of such a mixture of only 50 mm in terms of its thermal insulation properties is equal to a masonry of 2 bricks. Plus, it can, just like usual, level the walls, use it as a decorative finish. Moreover, it weighs 3-4 times less than ordinary plaster. You can use warm plaster for ceilings, walls, window and door slopes, pipelines, as well as interior finishing works.

    The technology for applying heat-insulating plaster is almost identical to the usual method - the mixture is spread using a conventional spatula or mechanical sprayers. It adheres well to the surface, so a small layer can be applied even without a reinforcing mesh.

    This material is able to "breathe", letting in steam, and has sufficient water-repellent properties. Due to the absence of seams, warm plaster does not form cold bridges. In addition, it is not flammable and is able to protect buildings from accidental fire.

    Penoizol

    Liquid carbamide foam (penoizol) is convenient because it can be poured directly at the construction site. It perfectly fills all irregularities and voids without expanding in volume. However, it is possible to obtain a high-quality coating without cracks only at temperatures up to + 5 ° C.

    Working in the cold with him is strictly prohibited.

    Urea foam is also produced in the form of slabs or crumbs, called thermovate, blown into hollow frames. The absence of seams is the most important advantage of the material. It is used to insulate walls, attics, roof space or as an interlayer in brick walls.


    To improve the heat-saving characteristics and increase the durability of a house made of wood, brick or foam concrete, insulation is often done on the outside according to the principle of a curtain wall or using "wet" technology. In this article, we will figure out how you can carry out external insulation of a house and which thermal insulation materials are best used for this.

    Overview of materials for insulation

    Mineral wool


    Mineral (stone or glass) wool is the most versatile insulation, which is produced with different density values. For internal insulation, a less dense version of a heat insulator is used, for an external arrangement - a more dense one, which is able to withstand various negative influences. In general, mineral wool differs from other types of insulation in its high heat-insulating ability, durability, non-combustibility, and mechanical strength. Its disadvantages are poor resistance to moisture and a rather high cost.

    Ecowool

    Ecowool belongs to environmentally friendly types of insulation with low thermal conductivity, as well as mineral wool heat insulator. Ecowool is made from recycled cellulose raw materials and impregnated with special compounds that prevent the material from burning and decaying. The only disadvantage of ecowool is difficult technological process application by spraying, however, this method allows you to uniformly fill all the cracks and structural protrusions of the facades, reliably protecting the building from the penetration of cold and moisture into the interior.


    Expanded polystyrene

    Styrofoam is one of the most popular polymer species insulation, characterized by durability, almost zero water absorption, excellent heat-saving properties, ease of installation. Most types of expanded polystyrene boards are impregnated with fire retardants, thus improving its fire resistance. Unlike heaters made from natural components, polystyrene and other types of polymer heat insulators are not susceptible to damage by microorganisms: mold, fungus and moss.

    Styrofoam

    Polyfoam is a heater with a sufficiently high heat-insulating ability, light in weight and easy to install, moisture resistant and inexpensive. The disadvantages of foam include its airtightness, low resistance to mechanical damage and toxicity when ignited. In addition, polystyrene has low durability, it degrades from high temperatures and in contact with chemically aggressive substances that are part of some paints and varnishes.

    What material to choose

    But, along with excellent heat-saving properties, insulation materials of natural origin have increased hygroscopicity - they quickly absorb moisture, retain it in their thickness, and when frost sets in, they freeze and lose their ability to shield the cold.

    In order to protect the insulation layer from natural materials, it is recommended to use vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes, which screen moisture and at the same time do not interfere with the ventilation of the walls.

    Unlike mineral wool and other types of insulation made from natural raw materials, thermal insulation made of foamed polymers practically does not absorb moisture and serves for a long time. If the installation of stone or glass wool is fraught with certain difficulties and requires compliance with safety standards, then the installation of foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam can be done quickly and easily by yourself. At the same time, the thermal insulation properties of these materials are slightly worse than mineral wool.

    Features of wall insulation outside the house

    Insulation of walls from the outside is mainly carried out according to the technology of hinged facades, leaving a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and finishing cladding- so the walls of the house are more efficiently ventilated.

    Stages of insulating a house from the outside when arranging a hinged facade:

    • Cleaning and drying, treatment of walls with antiseptic compounds.
    • Installation of vapor barrier film with sealing of panel joints with mounting tape.
    • Installation of a frame for the installation of insulation and external cladding.
    • Insulation laying, fixing with disc dowels.
    • Installation of waterproofing, windproof multifunctional membrane.
    • Anchoring facade decoration on the frame using clamps.

    Warming of house facades can also be carried out using “wet” technology - gluing a layer of heat insulator to the outer walls and applying a layer of decorative paint or plaster.

    In the construction of new buildings, special attention is now paid to the thermal protection of the outer walls. This is required by building codes, and competitiveness is increased due to this. But as far as old houses are concerned, the situation with the walls is somewhat different. Residents of private houses themselves think about how to insulate the house from the outside. And not everyone knows where to start this responsible work.

    Undoubtedly, the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside is preferable to using heating devices - you do not have to spend money on energy annually for them. Thermal insulation is also made from the inside, and experts recommend not to forget about it too. But first of all, external insulation should be provided.

    Before the purchase thermal insulation material appreciate its physical and Chemical properties, namely:

    The advantages of outdoor insulation of a home include the following:

    There are three ways to insulate:

    • "Well" arrangement of the material;
    • ventilated facade;
    • "Wet" glued insulation.

    In the first case, the insulation is placed inside the walls. Effective, but can only be implemented during the construction phase.

    The second method is the most common and beneficial. It is much cheaper than "wet" insulation and is simple - even an inexperienced person can start insulation with his own hands in this case.

    The latter option provides for fixing a layer of insulation on the glue outside the walls and additional fastening with dowels. Top coatings are applied: reinforcing, intermediate, decorative. A specialist must work, without experience it will not be possible to complete the work.

    Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (natural) and inorganic (which are obtained through the use of special equipment and materials).

    The first place belongs to mineral wool, which is stone (basalt), glass and slag. The only difference is in appearance.

    Material qualities:

    • Low thermal conductivity (0.03-0.045).
    • Density spread (20-200 kg / m³).
    • High noise absorption properties.
    • Water vapor permeability.
    • Resistant to fire.

    The disadvantages are:

    • Attractiveness to insects and rodents.
    • Reduction of thermal insulation by 50% when wetting 3-5% of the volume.
    • Failure to dry completely.

    Good material, but it is highly undesirable to sheathe the outside of the house with it.

    Also, foam is widely used as an external insulation.

    Material pluses:

    • The thermal conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0.03−0.037).
    • The cost is lower than that of other heaters.
    • Ease.
    • Density 11-40 kg / m³.

    Disadvantages:

    Extruded polystyrene foam has the same thermal conductivity as mineral wool and foam. In addition, he:

    • Does not absorb moisture.
    • Convenient to install, because it is produced in slabs.
    • Almost impermeable to air.
    • Stronger than Styrofoam.

    Disadvantages:

    • Gives off harmful substances during combustion.
    • Highly flammable.

    Also, “warm” plasters - a mixture of glass balls, cement and hydrophobic additives - help to insulate the structure. The material "breathes", insulates the room from moisture, does not burn, is not afraid of the sun's rays, and is easily repaired. Not always found on the market.

    Organic materials

    Materials made from natural ingredients include:

    What is better to choose

    Mineral and cellulose wool are more suitable for ventilated systems. In the case of well masonry, it is preferable to choose a material that does not allow moisture to pass through, which is extruded polystyrene foam. The plaster finish is perfectly combined with insulation with a density of more than 30 kg / m³. For example, with mineral wool, PPP, polystyrene, organic materials. With light wood walls, the material, the better to insulate the house from the outside, is breathable hemp, mineral wool, ecological wool, cork. The first option is preferable, although it costs more.

    It is recommended to choose high-quality material for cladding, this is better than insulating the walls of the house from the outside inexpensively, and then regretting such savings when it turns out that the expected effect has not been achieved. A competent choice of material is the key to comfort and warmth in your home!

    Thermal insulation of facades is relevant both for owners of new housing and old private houses. The walls outside must reliably protect the building from the cold. This will require a high-quality and efficient heat insulator. The cost of heating and the comfort of living will depend on how good the outer insulation layer was chosen.

    How to choose material

    Wall insulation outside can be carried out different materials... There is a wide range of products on the market. But what is the best way to insulate the facade of the house? The answer to the question depends on several factors. And it is not always worth believing the manufacturer's advertisements.

    Insulation of the facade of the house modern materials would be useless without adherence to technology. This is also worth considering when preparing for work. Before insulating the house from the outside, you need to understand the nuances of the process.

    It is important not only to choose the right heat insulator, but also to observe the technology of insulation

    Wall insulation can be divided into two large groups:

    • inorganic;
    • organic.

    The second group has more representatives. This includes products of the chemical industry: expanded polystyrene (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene), natural ecowool. When choosing how to insulate the facade of a house from the outside, first of all, you need to pay attention to the physical properties.

    Styrofoam

    Such thermal insulation belongs to the class of foamed polymers. Styrofoam is highly efficient, easy to install, and isolates noise well enough... Another advantage is the affordable price. But the disadvantages of such a material are noticeably more. In order to choose the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, it is important to consider that polystyrene has such qualities as:

    • flammability;
    • fragility (service life is rarely more than 10-20 years);
    • poor vapor permeability (additional ventilation of the premises will be required);
    • instability to the simultaneous effects of cold and moisture (the material crumbles into separate balls);
    • low strength.

    Polyfoam is affordable, excellent thermal insulation, but flammable and short-lived

    There is a possibility that the material will release toxic styrene as it ages.... The concentration is small, and when insulated from the outside, the substance practically does not penetrate into the room, but this property casts doubt on the manufacturer's statements about environmental friendliness.

    Extruded polystyrene foam

    To insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you can use extruded polystyrene foam or, more simply, penoplex. This material is a close relative of Styrofoam. It has all its advantages and some disadvantages. But compared to the previous version, it lacks such important disadvantages as:

    • instability to moisture and cold;
    • low strength;
    • fragility.

    Flammability and low vapor permeability remain. Although some manufacturers, by introducing special additives, increase the fire resistance class, but get completely non-combustible material fails.


    Penoplex is a strong durable material, but it has a low fire resistance class

    Insulation of the facade wooden house it is not recommended to do it yourself with penoplex or polystyrene foam. Owners value such buildings for the naturalness of materials and the ability of the walls to "breathe". External insulation with polystyrene will completely block the movement of air. In this case, additional forced ventilation may even be required, since natural ventilation will not be enough... Polystyrene can easily turn a building into a greenhouse, this is worth remembering when deciding how to insulate a house from the outside.

    Ecowool

    This material deserves the title of environmentally friendly insulation, since it is completely made from cellulose fibers. External wall insulation with such material is not subject to decay and is unattractive to rodents. This can be achieved by adding to the composition of minerals: boric acid and borax.

    Insulation of the house outside with ecowool has a loose structure. The material has high soundproofing performance, good air permeability. This option is perfect if you need to insulate a wooden or frame building. Beneficial features the wood is not lost at the same time.


    Ecowool does not impair the ability of the tree to pass air

    When using the material on timber or log walls, wet application is carried out. Wet ecowool is sprayed onto the surface, after which it is allowed to dry. The material adheres well to the wall and forms a warm shell... The final stage of work is the plastering of the facade or its finishing with various materials.

    Insulation of the facades of buildings built according to frame technology, performed by dry method. Ecowool is simply poured into the cavity between the outer and inner skin.

    Mineral wool

    What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside inexpensively and effectively? Here the first place is confidently occupied by mineral wool. The material has good thermal insulation performance and is relatively inexpensive. In addition, it should be noted the clear installation technology and ease of processing. Mineral wool is safe for humans.


    Thermal insulation of a house with mineral wool is an inexpensive and safe way to insulate your home

    To choose a material, you need to consider three types of mineral wool:

    • Stone (usually basalt) is produced in hard slabs... Possesses all of the listed advantages. It will be the best option for doing work with your own hands.
    • Glass is produced in rolled mats... The main disadvantage is the inconvenience during installation. Glass wool is prickly and irritating. Particles can enter the lungs, which will also not lead to good. When using such material, it is strongly recommended to wear protective clothing, gloves and a face shield.
    • Slag will be the most inexpensive option... But is it worth saving while building your home? Insulation for the walls of the house outside in this case is made from industrial waste.



    When using mineral wool, you need to know a few important points... To properly insulate the surface, you need to use a vapor barrier (fastened from the side warm air) and waterproofing (from the cold side). These layers will protect the water-absorbent material. When wet, cotton wool practically does not provide thermal insulation. To remove condensation from the outer surface of the material between the insulation and exterior decoration provide for a ventilation gap 3-5 cm wide. This layer must necessarily communicate with the outside air.

    Work technology

    How to insulate a house from the outside? There are two ways to do this. Both can be used for almost any insulation material. The type of heat insulator has almost no effect on the technology. But you need to take into account certain recommendations of the manufacturer. For example, as is the case with mineral wool, when a ventilation gap is required.

    There are two technologies:

    • thermal insulation of facades with a wet method;
    • dry method, when a decorative coating is applied, fixed to the frame.

    Wet facade

    This method has a relatively low cost, less load on the building foundations. But it is important to note that the decorative coating cannot guarantee reliable protection from mechanical stress.

    In this case, the insulation of the outer walls is covered with a layer of plaster. Its thickness is usually 40 mm. To ensure strength, a reinforcing mesh (fiberglass or metal mesh-netting) is used.


    Wet insulation method involves wall covering decorative plaster

    Insulation and decoration of the facade of the house are carried out in the following order:

    1. cleaning the wall from dirt, leveling defects, surface treatment with a primer;
    2. fixing the vapor barrier material, if necessary (for foam and mineral wool);
    3. installation of insulation plates on an adhesive composition (not relevant for ecowool, it is simply sprayed onto the surface);
    4. additional fixation with plastic dowels;
    5. applying an adhesive solution to the surface of the insulation;
    6. mesh reinforcement;
    7. application of an adhesive primer after the adhesive has dried;
    8. plastering the surface.

    How to insulate the facade of a wooden house with mineral wool? Only fit here wet way... For the rest of the materials, you can choose one of two options.


    It is better to choose fiberglass mesh as a reinforcing layer.

    Finishing and insulating the facade of a house using this technology has one important drawback: over time, the plaster can begin to fall off... This is especially true if the external insulation of the facades was carried out using a metal mesh. It is recommended to opt for the more expensive but modern fiberglass.

    Dry method

    Warming and finishing of facades in this case assumes the presence facing material... Most often they use siding, lining, composite panels etc. Do-it-yourself insulation of houses outside will require a frame device for fastening the cladding. The step-by-step instructions are as follows:

    1. Cleaning the surface from dirt, leveling large defects.
    2. Securing the vapor barrier material, if needed.
    3. Installation of a frame for insulation made of wooden blocks or boards. When using a metal profile, the racks are installed after fixing the material for insulating the walls from the outside. At this stage, you only need to provide brackets for mounting the racks.
    4. The next step is to attach the heat insulator to the glue. Below you need to provide a starting profile, which will serve as a support for the first row. After the adhesive dries, the facade insulation is additionally fixed on plastic dowels-fungi with their own hands.
    5. On top of mineral wool or foam, waterproofing and wind protection should be fixed. For these purposes, it is recommended to choose a modern vapor-diffusion hydro-windproof membrane. How to fix it correctly? The membrane or film is fixed on a construction stapler. The joints are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and glued with tape.
    6. After completing all the steps, you can proceed to the installation of the cladding. How to finish the facade in each case should be indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.

    The dry method of thermal insulation of walls involves the use of cladding and a ventilation gap

    You can dry-insulate walls in almost any weather.... This favorably distinguishes the option from the previous one. Deciding how best to insulate a house depends on the type of finish chosen.

    Material thickness calculation

    This item will be an important stage in the work. Before insulating the walls, you need to decide on the thickness of the insulation. It is important to know that the value for wooden facade and for a brick will be different. This is because wood retains heat better. Also, the indicator depends on the climatic region of construction and the purpose of the building.

    TownRecommended insulation thickness for external insulation, mm
    St. Petersburg100
    Moscow100
    Ekaterinburg100
    Novosibirsk150
    Rostov50
    Samara100
    Kazan100
    Permian100
    Volgograd100
    Krasnodar50

    The calculation can be done in three ways:

    • according to the formulas from the joint venture "Thermal protection of buildings";
    • using the Teremok program;
    • using various online calculators. The best option will be the Teremok program. It allows you to make accurate calculations and is easy to use. There is both an online version and a PC application.

    Outside insulation gives a much better effect than insulating a house from the inside. In addition to the main functions, the insulation protects the walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering and thereby prolongs the service life of the entire building. Installation of insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners easily cope with this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials are available for insulating walls from the outside, and how to fix them correctly.

    Despite the fact that the operating conditions outside and inside the house are strikingly different, in both cases the same materials can be used. Nevertheless, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to those options that best meet the following requirements:

    • increased resistance to shrinkage;
    • resistance to mechanical damage;
    • UV resistance;
    • durability;
    • ease of installation;
    • resistance to insects and microorganisms.

    For wooden houses the vapor transmission capacity of the insulation is also important, because wooden walls must "breathe". As a rule, finishing coatings for facades are designed for long-term operation, and it is too troublesome and not always advisable to remove them every few years in order to replace worn-out thermal insulation. At the same time, if the insulation under the finish shrinks, cracks, starts to rot or is gnawed by mice, it will no longer be able to retain heat, which means that it will not be possible to do without repairs. That is why it is so important that the selected material fully meets the specified criteria.

    Types of thermal insulation materials

    Presently construction market offers the following materials for house insulation:


    They all differ in technical specifications, installation technologies, have different terms service. Moreover, each of them is suitable for outdoor use and has its own advantages. Let's consider these materials in more detail.

    Mineral wool is made from fine fibers obtained by melting and spraying glass, blast furnace slag or rocks. Depending on the location of the fibers, the structure of the insulation can be corrugated, vertically layered and horizontally layered, have different densities and thicknesses. Each type of mineral wool has its own characteristics:


    Mineral wool is produced in slabs and mats with different options coatings - kraft paper, aluminum foil, fiberglass. Basalt insulation is the most expensive in terms of cost, and the higher its density, the more expensive it is.

    Benefits of mineral wool:

    • fine-fiber structure contributes to the free passage of air and water vapor, so the risk of condensation on the insulated surface is minimal;
    • thanks to the mineral base, the material is not subject to combustion, which means it is an additional protection for walls from fire;
    • the insulation has a relatively high moisture resistance, and therefore effectively prevents the penetration of dampness into the house;
    • mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and vibrations, and street noise almost does not penetrate into the insulated room;
    • the insulation is lightweight, easy to process, thanks to its elasticity, it quickly restores its shape after crumpling during installation;
    • microorganisms, insects do not develop in mineral wool, rodents do not like it.

    Disadvantages:

    • Mineral wool tends to shrink, and the lower the density of the material, the faster deformations occur. Rigid basalt slabs are least susceptible to shrinkage, but due to the high cost, not everyone can afford such thermal insulation;
    • with prolonged wetting, the insulation is saturated with moisture and loses its thermal insulation qualities;
    • Microscopic fibers are easily destroyed when the material is squeezed and cut, and then deposited on the skin, causing irritation, can get into the eyes and lungs. Glass wool is considered the most dangerous in this regard, but with other types of mineral wool, at least gloves and a respirator should be used.

    Popular brands of mineral wool.

    NameBrief characteristics

    Basalt insulation with increased rigidity, produced in the form of plates with a thickness of 25 to 180 mm. Suitable for all types of facades, can be used as a base for plastering. Differs in resistance to deformation and shrinkage, water resistance, low thermal conductivity, absolutely non-flammable. Fastening with dowels and glue

    A type of glass wool with various additives that improve the characteristics of the insulation. It is produced in slabs and rolls, there are options with a foil coating. It is widely used for insulation of all types of facades, frame structures, internal partitions, roofing systems

    Fiberglass insulation that does not contain formaldehyde additives. Produced in plates and rolls, it is distinguished by biological and chemical resistance, elasticity, good vapor permeability. Material thickness - from 5 to 10 cm

    Glass wool insulation with a high content of water repellents. It is produced in the form of rolls, mats, rigid and semi-rigid plates, 50-100 mm thick. Suitable for all types of surfaces, ventilated facades, frame structures

    Prices for mineral wool

    Polyfoam and EPS

    Heaters based on expanded polystyrene are excellent heat insulators due to their closed cellular structure. Almost 98% of the material is air or inert gas, enclosed in sealed cells, so the insulation weighs very little. Both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, which means they are excellent for insulating foundations, plinths, basements. For thermal insulation of facades, these materials serve as the basis for applying plaster.

    Advantages:

    • polystyrene foam insulators weigh little and are easy to process during installation, so a beginner can also cope with this. In addition, such thermal insulation does not exert a large load on the base, which means that there is no need for additional reinforcement of the supporting structures;
    • microorganisms cannot develop in expanded polystyrene, therefore, fungi and mold are not afraid of insulation;
    • with proper installation, these materials serve for a long time, especially EPS - up to 50 years;
    • foam and EPS are resistant to soap and salt solutions, alkalis, bleach and other chemically aggressive substances;
    • installation does not require the use of protective equipment in the form of a respirator or gloves, since the insulation does not emit toxic fumes or small particles, does not cause irritation.

    Disadvantages:

    • expanded polystyrene refers to vapor-proof materials, and therefore cannot be used for thermal insulation of wooden walls;
    • the insulation is destroyed upon contact with solvents, drying oil, some types of varnishes, as well as under the influence of sunlight;
    • soundproofing properties are much lower than that of mineral wool insulation;
    • already at + 30 degrees, polystyrene foam begins to emit harmful substances - toluene, styrene, formaldehyde and others. When burning, the amount of toxic emissions increases significantly.

    On the domestic market, domestic-made EPSPs - "Penoplex" and "Tepleks", as well as expanded polystyrene insulation of the brands Ursa, GREENPLEX, PRIMAPLEX are in great demand.

    Styrofoam prices

    Styrofoam

    Cellulose insulation

    Cellulose insulation, also called ecowool, is made from waste paper and waste paper. Ecowool is 80% cellulose fibers, the remaining 20% ​​are antiseptics and fire retardants. The material is tightly packed into all irregularities and voids and forms a dense seamless coating with high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out in two ways - dry and wet-glue, and both options can be done either manually or using a special installation.

    The dry method allows you to perform thermal insulation in a short time and immediately start finishing. But at the same time, the density of the coating will not be high enough, which will lead to shrinkage and the appearance of cold bridges. In addition, during dry blowing, a large amount of fine dust is formed and you have to work in a respirator.

    The wet-glue method ensures better adhesion of the insulation to the base, the layer is much denser and more resistant to shrinkage, which guarantees the durability of the thermal insulation. True, it takes time for the material to dry - from 2 to 3 days, and even more in cold or damp weather. And until the layer is completely dry, it is impossible to start finishing.

    Advantages:

    • environmental Safety;
    • excellent heat and sound insulation properties;
    • resistance to bacteria, fungi, insects;
    • fire resistance;
    • long service life;
    • affordable price.
    • tendency to shrinkage;
    • high hygroscopicity;
    • laboriousness of performing work by hand.

    Polyurethane foam

    Polyurethane foam, or polyurethane foam, belongs to the new generation of heaters and has improved characteristics compared to traditional materials. It is a liquid polymer mixture, which, after being applied to the surface, hardens and forms a durable coating with a cellular structure. The components are mixed immediately before starting work, and the finished solution is applied by spraying using a special installation.

    Advantages:

    • the liquid mixture easily fills all irregularities, cracks, recesses, it is conveniently applied in hard-to-reach places;
    • the material perfectly retains heat and muffles sounds;
    • PPU is resistant to chemically aggressive substances, practically does not absorb water, withstands sudden temperature changes;
    • can be applied to any type of surface - wood, concrete, brick, metal;
    • the insulation is very light, therefore it does not require reinforcement of the bearing bases;
    • the average service life is 25-30 years.
    • polyurethane foam is destroyed by exposure to sunlight;
    • spraying requires equipment and skills to work with it;
    • PPU cannot be used in areas that are very hot;
    • high cost of material and services of specialists.

    Wall insulation technology

    Thermal insulation of the facade can be performed in different ways, depending on the type of insulation. But for all options a prerequisite is a high-quality preparation of the base, because no insulation can stop the processes of destruction of wall materials. Consider the methods of insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam plates, as the most popular in frequent construction.

    Mineral wool insulation

    External walls are cleaned of dirt, peeling plaster or paint. Cracks and problem areas are repaired, places affected by the fungus must be treated. Small irregularities do not need to be eliminated - mineral wool insulation is mounted using a frame, so all defects will disappear inside. Finally, the walls are covered with a waterproof primer with antiseptic properties so that mold does not develop under the thermal insulation layer.

    Step 1. The bars for the frame are cut to the desired length, treated with antiseptic impregnation on all sides and dried in air.

    Advice. The cross-section of the beams should be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. That is, if slabs with a thickness of 50 mm are stacked in one row, the thickness of the frame should be 5-6 cm, with two-layer laying - at least 11 cm.In the first case, a bar with a section of 50x50 mm is suitable for the racks, in the second - a board of 40x110 mm, installed on the edge.

    Step 2. On the walls, markings are made for the frame guides strictly according to the level, holes are drilled for fasteners and the bars are installed. The distance between the posts should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation board. During the installation process, the location of the elements is controlled by the building level; if necessary, wooden lining under the timber is used so that all the racks are in the same plane.

    Step 3... Insulation is inserted into the cells of the frame. To do this, the plates are slightly squeezed along the edges, pressed between the racks and released. The material spreads out on its own and fills the space tightly. The insulation must be inserted so that there are no gaps between the plates.

    Step 4. After filling all the cells from above, the insulation must be closed with a windproof waterproof membrane. The membrane is laid with the marked side out, the canvases are arranged horizontally, starting from the bottom. A construction stapler is used to fix the membrane. The upper fabric is laid with an overlap of 8-10 cm, and it is recommended to glue the joints with tape.

    Step 5... On top of the membrane, wooden slats of a counter-lattice with a thickness of 30-40 mm are stuffed to ensure an air gap. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate on the insulation, moisture will saturate the wooden frame and the structure will become unusable faster.

    After that, it remains only to mount the topcoat, for example, siding or corrugated board. The finishing must completely cover the thermal insulation layer so that no precipitation falls on the plates. Only under such conditions will the material last a long time and effectively.

    Last step - decorative trim facade

    Warming with expanded polystyrene

    This method of insulation is markedly different from the previous one. First, the base must be leveled so that the material fits snugly against the surface. Secondly, the installation is carried out without lathing, the plates are attached with glue and dowels-fungi.

    Step 1. Prepared walls are primed with quartz sand, for example, Betokontakte. If the substrate is porous, the primer is applied in 2 layers.

    Step 2. Determine the lower boundary of the thermal insulation and draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the house. Drill holes for dowels according to the marking with a step of 20-30 cm and fix the starting bar.

    Starter bar fixed

    Step 3. You will need special glue to fix the insulation. You can use cans of assembly adhesive, for example TYTAN STYRO 753, or dry adhesive mixture (Ceresit CT 83). The mixture is diluted in clean water according to the manufacturer's instructions, mixed until homogeneous with a mixer at low speed.

    Take the first sheet, apply glue from the back side in a continuous strip along the perimeter and in the center. Next, they apply insulation to the wall, resting the lower edge on the starting profile, check the location with a level, press firmly against the base.

    Step 4. The entire row is fixed, tightly joining the sheets together. The next row begins with half of the sheet to offset the vertical seams. Excess glue protruding at the joints is carefully removed with a spatula.

    Step 5. When the glue hardens, each sheet must be secured with disc dowels. To do this, carefully drill holes in the wall through the insulation, insert the dowels and carefully hammer them in with a hammer. One sheet requires 5 fasteners - in each corner and in the center.

    Step 6. Then knead adhesive solution, applied in a continuous layer to the insulation, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid on top and immersed in a solution. Openings and corners are additionally reinforced with corner profiles.

    When the solution dries, the surface is sanded, dedusted and plastered with a thin layer. Now all that remains is to paint the facade or apply decorative plaster.

    Ceresit glue prices

    Ceresit glue

    Video - Materials for wall insulation outside

    Video - Insulation of the facade with penoplex