What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Plants require water for normal growth and development, although the amount varies significantly depending on the type of plant.

As a rule, water is absorbed by the roots from the substrate, although epiphytic plants absorb it more by the leaves than by the roots. Evaporation of moisture occurs from the entire aboveground surface of the plant, mainly from the surface of the leaves. As a result, a sucking force is created, due to which water is constantly absorbed from the soil. Therefore, the substrate must always contain enough moisture to meet the needs of the plant.

But the roots also need air in the gaps between the substrate particles. If these voids are filled with water, the roots will rot and the plant will die.

That's why watering indoor plants - a delicate question, since these plants have very little soil around the roots.

More plants dies from waterlogging of the soil than from any other cause.

Dishes for watering indoor plants.

The most needed equipment for watering indoor plants - this is long spout watering can , although many devices have been invented that make it possible to determine the need for a plant for watering or to carry it out when the owner is not at home.

If you put a sieve on the spout, you can wash off the dust from the leaves, for which you need to use soft water; hard water leaves lime stains on them.

Some indoor plants that require highly moist soil (for example, cyperus) can be placed in pallet with water , so that the water reaches the ground level. If the pan is wide enough, the constant evaporation of water from it will create a more humid atmosphere.

To increase moisture, use hand sprayer .

How often should you water your indoor plants?

Each plant has its own requirements for the water regime. That, how often to water indoor plants depends on many factors. Watering frequency - the value is not constant; it depends on the size of the plant, the size of the pot, on the conditions the environment and especially from the season ... Therefore, you need to be guided by your observations.

Plants of deserts, swamps, plants from climates with variable moisture have found shelter in our rooms. Accordingly, they are watered in different ways.

Often, seeing withered leaves, they begin to water the plant more abundantly. This is not entirely correct, since there are many reasons for wilting. Feel the potted soil: if it's dry, the plant really needs to be watered, but if the soil is wet, wilting may be due to over-watering. In this case, the roots, not receiving enough oxygen, gradually die off, then putrefactive bacteria settle on them, and the plant begins to ache. Watering should be reduced. Let the roots breathe, let the plant rest from the water.

Withering is also caused by pests or pathogens. And in this case, watering must be reduced.

The withering of the leaves of indoor plants can occur under the influence of sunlight, on the first clear day after a long cloudy weather. And before sinning on improper watering, other errors should be excluded that give a similar reaction to a houseplant.

Don't make watering a regular rite, for example, every Sunday. Each plant has its own correct interval between watering - balsam may require daily watering in the summer, and the astrophytum cactus does not need water at all in winter.

Potted soil should generally be moderately moist. It is impossible to allow abrupt transitions from a lack of moisture to its excess. This means that watering must be regular and even. The need for indoor plants for water is determined by their specific features: the structure of the aboveground organs, the power of the root system, etc.

The interval between waterings different plants varies with seasons and changes in containment conditions.

Araucaria

Plants with succulent, fleshy leaves (such as agave, aloe, etc.) require less water than plants with large leaves, which sometimes need to be watered twice a day.

A newly rooted cuttings require much less water than an adult plant.

Excess moisture is harmful to bulbous plants. It is best to water them by directing the stream of water not to the onion, but closer to the walls of the pot, or water from the pallet.

There are plants that are very sensitive to lack of moisture, such as araucaria. When its twigs begin to hang, no watering will help.

In winter, during the dormant period, the growth of indoor plants slows down or stops, at this time indoor plants need less water and water them much less often, sometimes up to 2 - 3 times a month, overmoistening of the soil should be avoided.

On the contrary, in spring and summer, when the indoor plant has a period of growth and flowering, watering is needed more often (perhaps from one to three times a week). With a slight overdrying, young shoots of a houseplant, buds and flowers may suffer.

The need for water increases with temperature and light intensity. Plants in small pots and those that have not been transplanted for a long time require more frequent watering than plants in large containers or freshly transplanted. Plants in ceramic pots should be watered more often than in plastic ones; plants in double pots require less watering.

There is Golden Rule watering indoor plants - it is better to water less, but more often than less often and in large quantities.

Water for watering indoor plants.

Watering indoor plants is advised only with soft water - rain, river or pond. The most common is rainwater. It is to this kind of water that the leaves of most plants are accustomed, so it is best suited for spraying.

Hard water (including well water) containing various salts should be avoided.

The main element, the content of which must be taken into account when watering, is calcium. It enters the water when it passes through limestone, chalk, dolomite, gypsum, and other limestone rocks. In this case, the water becomes hard (soap foam is poorly formed in it). The hardness of the water is due to the formation of scale on the walls of teapots, plaque on water taps and pipes.

Exactly the same plaque from poorly soluble calcium salts is formed when watering plants with hard water. Remember that not all plants can tolerate increased calcium concentrations. Of course, this element is required for normal life any plant. However, you apply other fertilizers only from time to time, and calcium - with each watering.

Aroids, azaleas, orchids, ferns, camellias are especially poorly tolerated by hard water.

Watering with hard water is well tolerated by those indoor plants that grow on calcareous soils.

But, given the state of our ecology, the pollution of natural reservoirs, as well as the possible pollution of rainwater from industrial emissions (if you live in an industrial area or not far from it), watering indoor plants with tap water is not such a bad way out.

However, before watering indoor plants, chlorinated water from the water supply system must be left to stand for at least a day so that the chlorine has time to evaporate.

Do not use every last drop of settled water. If sediment has formed at the bottom, then it will be better for the plants if it does not fall into the pot.

The water temperature for watering indoor plants should be at least at least room temperature. This rule is especially important when watering tropical indoor plants. It is recommended to water cacti with warmer water. Watering indoor plants cold water can cause rotting of roots, dropping of buds and even death of plants.

On the contrary, watering indoor plants with warm water in a cold room is also not desirable, because this will lead to premature growth of the indoor plant.

Proper watering of indoor plants.

In most plants, the substrate should be kept slightly moist during the growing period. Water the plant until water begins to seep through the drainage holes in the pot. Leave the plant for 10 to 30 minutes and then drain off any remaining water on the pan. Do not re-irrigate until the surface of the substrate is dry to the touch: the surface of the substrate dries first, and the substrate itself is still moist inside.

Warmer conditions require more frequent watering.

In winter, for most plants, the amount of moisture should be limited. During this period, growth slows down or stops altogether, so the roots require less water and are more prone to rot in cooler conditions.

Certain species require frequent watering and should not be allowed to dry out; and a plant like cyperus has adapted to the constant presence of roots in water.

Some plants, such as cacti, prefer dry conditions and only need a small amount of moisture.

How to properly water indoor plants?

Watering methods for indoor plants.

There are several ways to water your indoor plants. They depend on the dishes in which you planted the plants, the pallets and on the characteristics of the plant itself.

The most traditional and easiest way to water is from above. The substrate surface is moistened with a watering can. The soil should not be washed away with a sharp stream, it is better to water in small portions so that the water does not stagnate, flooding the bases of leaves and stems. It is undesirable to spray water on the leaves when watering. It is best to use a long-nosed watering can for this.

The appearance of water in the pan is a sign that the plant has been watered sufficiently. Wait for all excess moisture to collect in the pan, and then drain it. With this method of watering, the mineral salts necessary for plant growth are quickly washed out of the pot. To compensate for this loss, feed your plants regularly, especially during the growing season.

However, many plants, such as cyclamens, do not like it when splashes of water hit their leaves, which causes them to rot. In this case, bottom watering is used. For bottom watering, water is poured directly into the sump. Due to capillary forces, water rises up the substrate and evaporates from the surface. After 30 minutes, the excess water must be drained from the pallet.

Bottom watering can also be used if the clod of earth is very dry and a gap has formed between the wall of the pot and the soil. With top watering, the water quickly flows into the pan without moistening the substrate, and only by lowering the pot into the water, they achieve good wetting.

Lower watering has the opposite disadvantage compared to upper watering: salts accumulate in an excessive amount in the pot. One of the signs of this is the formation of a lime crust on the soil. This crust can serve as a source of infection for plants, in addition, the roots of many plants are damaged by excess salts. The crust is removed with the top layer of earth 1.5 - 2 cm and a new substrate is poured into the pot.

If the substrate is very dry, place the pot to the brim in a container of water and leave until completely moistened, but do not let the water overflow over the top of the pot. Allow the water to drain properly before placing the plant on the tray.

By "bathing" the pot in water, water the saintpaulias, cyclamens and all other plants that do not tolerate the ingress of water on the leaves.

When bottom watering, remember to feed the plants. However, shortly before feeding, rinse the earthen lump by watering from above or by repeatedly lowering the pot into the water.

Types of watering indoor plants.

Rare watering of indoor plants.

Indoor plants are left dry for several days, weeks, months. Rare watering is suitable for cacti and succulents, as well as deciduous tuberous and bulbous indoor plants that have a dormant period (crinum, gloxinia, hippeastrum, caladium).

1. Allow the substrate to dry half to two-thirds before watering. Check the moisture content of the substrate with a stick.

2. Water the plant from above - the water should be absorbed into the substrate, but not overflowing onto the pan.

3. Recheck the wetting of the substrate with a stick, add more water if necessary.

Moderate watering of indoor plants.

Indoor plants are not watered immediately after the earthen coma dries, but after one or two days, that is, when the earth in the pot dries up.

Moderate watering is applied to indoor plants with fleshy or strongly pubescent stems and leaves (paperomia, columnea), with thick roots and rhizomes (palms, dracaena, aspidistra, aroid), as well as with aquifer tubers on the roots (asparagus, chlorophytum, arrowroot) and bulbous ...

For some types of indoor plant lung drying - required condition during the rest period, as it stimulates the laying and maturation of flower buds (zygocactus, clivia).

1. Allow the top 13 mm of the substrate to dry before watering. Check moisture by touch.

2. Water the plant from above until the entire substrate is completely moist, but not wet.

3. If some water has leaked into the sump, drain it and stop watering. Do not let the plant stand in water.

For any indoor plant, the correct or incorrect care is almost always related to the quality of watering. The ability to find a balance, to approach the process of soil moistening reasonably, not to go to extremes and "listen" to plants is the main rule of correct watering. But not the only one. After all, to find the golden mean between poor and over-watering is not easy at all. Basic rules for watering indoor plants will avoid major mistakes with this important procedure. Let's get to know them better.

1. Good watering starts with water quality

Indoor plants should not be watered with water with untested characteristics, especially tap water, not settled, cold or hot. The water temperature should match the room temperature. It is necessary to defend it before watering for at least 2-3 days.

The ideal option is melt, rainwater (subject to a favorable environmental situation) or filtered "drinking" water. It is better not to water indoor plants with boiled water (with rare exceptions), and mineralization is generally strictly prohibited. Distilled water may be needed for some plants.

2. Watering should be done only when needed.

Checking the degree of drying out of the substrate and controlling the rate of moisture consumption by the plant at different stages of development will allow avoiding gross errors with watering. Whatever the standard recommendations, you need to judge the need for watering only by the soil.

Before taking up the watering can, it is worth checking whether the plant needs watering:

• Check the moisture content of the upper layer of the substrate (superficially and at a depth of 1 to 2 cm, lightly rubbing the ground between the fingers;
• Compare whether the pot has become lighter (the weight of the pot before and after watering is significantly different).

3. No watering for everyone at once!

Allocating a specific day / days of the week for watering and watering all plants indiscriminately at the same time is the biggest mistake. This is certainly more convenient. But indoor plants are all different, and it is also worth watering them at different times.

Indoor plants can be grouped according to the degree of moisture-loving (moisture-loving, moderately moisture-loving or drought-resistant) and even by origin (desert, subtropical, tropical). But it's better to check the individual variety and species recommendations and make a schedule for each plant.

A good strategy is to keep simple records or tables, or use tags and labels on pots with information about:

• how often and abundantly you need to water the plant at different stages of development;
• how much water can be left in the pallets;
• what should be the water.

Always highlight plants with special "markers" that are watered through trays, using the wick method, pouring water into the funnels of leaves, or by dipping.

4. Extremes are unacceptable

Drought and waterlogging are two poles in determining improper irrigation. And both are considered invalid. The substrate for any indoor plant should not be wet in the upper 2-3 cm longer than a few minutes after watering.

Even for moisture-loving species, the top layer of the substrate should be allowed to dry before the next watering. And for drought-resistant and requiring minimal watering plants, you should not bring the matter to the complete drying of the substrate at the bottom of the pot (except for the bulbous and tuberous overwintering in complete dryness, and capable of withstanding the dryness of the cacti).

Emergencies, including departures, happen to all growers. But if regular care is negligent, to allow constant overflows or underfill plants, then you should not expect health and beauty from them.

In watering indoor plants, one rule always works: not adding a little is always better than overdoing it with the amount of water.

5. Frequency and abundance of watering are equally important.

Watering is frequent (daily or every other day), medium or moderately frequent (after 2-3 days) and rare (no more than once a week). But besides the frequency for all indoor plants, the quality of the soil getting wet is also important.

How strongly the substrate will be saturated with water - the abundance of watering - is determined by the several top centimeters of the soil. Abundant or generous watering immediately makes the soil very wet, after a couple of minutes - damp, and only after a while - wet.

With standard moderate watering, the soil is never soggy: after sputum, it should become evenly moist in a couple of minutes. And light watering is such in which the soil with a little dampness immediately becomes wet.

Determine the degree of moisture tactilely:

• wet soil "drips", when the substrate is squeezed, drops of water appear;
• damp soil crumples easily and sticks;
• wet rolls down, wrinkles, but does not stick to the hand;
• dry - crumbles when squeezed.

Any watering is considered correct only when the amount of water allows the entire earthen lump to be wetted evenly, to the lowest layers - so that a little water is released from the drainage holes not immediately, but some time after watering.

Too fast drainage or lack of water in the sump, signaling that the substrate is waterproof or unable to retain water, is equally undesirable.

For high-quality irrigation, it is better to divide the water into several passes and observe the saturation of the earthen clod, giving the water a chance not to pour out immediately, but to be evenly distributed.

6. Scattering and neatness is the best watering strategy

Watering should not be done in one place with a strong jet of water, which compacts and erodes the substrate. For watering, it is advisable to use convenient watering cans specially designed for indoor plants with scattering nozzles. It is necessary to direct the water along the perimeter of the pot, not high, avoiding the formation of pits, slowly, without "puddles" and water accumulation above the soil.

Particular attention should be paid to accuracy: not all indoor plants are sensitive to wetting, but none will thank you with decorativeness when watering carelessly. Water should not be directed to trunks and under roots, to root collars and growth points, to soak and spray the leaves.

If there are signs of soil compaction, crusting, poor saturation of the substrate, you must immediately take care of loosening. In case of severe pollution or mold, change the topsoil.

7. Watering should not be done in the middle of the day.

Indoor plants are best watered in the early morning or evening during the warm season and only in the early morning during cold seasons. Watering should not be carried out in direct sunlight, in the middle of the day.

8. Water should not stagnate in the trays

Even for plants requiring immersion or sump watering, the amount of time to leave water in the outer container should be limited. With classic overhead watering, any remaining water in the trays should be drained after 5-8 minutes.

Even 10 minutes of stagnation of water in the lower part of the substrate and oversaturation of drainage with water can lead to the onset of negative processes for rot-sensitive species.

9. Correction of watering at the slightest change

Watering is rarely possible with an established frequency. If the weather is hot, heating works harder, air humidity drops, the plant is actively developing, watering needs to be increased. But not in abundance, but in frequency, compensating for all factors.

It should always be remembered that numerous other factors affect the irrigation schedule:

• the size of the pot (the larger the container, the less often watering should be);
• pot materials (plants in ceramic containers are watered more abundantly);
• leaf size and density;
• location in the room and frequency of ventilation;
• air humidity level;
• the degree of filling of the substrate with roots;
• drafts, etc.

10. Using smart assistants

Today, both budget and elite systems have been developed for indoor plants to avoid difficulties with watering. The simplest and most affordable indicators, auto-irrigation flasks, double-walled containers, hydroponic installations will allow you to keep watering to a minimum.

Even a simple moisture level indicator will eliminate the need to constantly check the soil by touch. And if there are difficulties with determining whether a plant needs watering or is it better to wait, be sure to get such smart assistants.

Iris (Iris) - a huge genus, uniting a wide variety of plants that have an "iris" type of flower. Moreover, the biology of these plants is so diverse that it is difficult to suspect close relatives of them.

Of course, every plant lover has seen - the usual flowers, often grown in gardens and decorating cities.
In this article, I would like to acquaint florists with much less frequently grown groups of irises - Juno, Iridodiktyum, Regelio-cyclus. These species differ in their biology from rhizome irises.
These are spring-flowering plants, many of which bloom exceptionally early.
And since they are mountain plants, well-drained soil is the main condition for their successful cultivation.

Juno

Juno (Juno)- a group of spring-flowering irises with a very peculiar biology. Juno has a remarkable flower shape, in which the upper perianth lobes are reduced and laid down.

The overwhelming majority of Juno grows in Central Asia, rising from the foothills to the Tien Shan glaciers.
Many of the Juno have been described by the pioneer explorers of the flora of these places hundreds of years ago. However, up to the present time, discoveries in this Junon reserve are possible (and happen).

Junon's peculiar exotic beauty immediately caught the attention of plant lovers. Attempts at cultivation have never stopped since their discovery. Yet most of the Juno did not become widespread. garden plants... However, several species are constantly grown by nurseries and can be classified as plants that thrive in temperate climates.

Junon hybridization was started by the famous florist Thomas Hog, who created three hybrids in the late 19th century. At this point, the selection stopped, although there are opportunities for its continuation.

Growing Junon is akin to collecting jewelry - experienced florists who are not indifferent to these particular plants are fond of this.
There is now a resurgence of interest in Juno due to the impressive finds made during the Central Asian expeditions (sponsored by the Gothenburg Botanical Garden).

Junon bulbs have perennial roots - at their base are buds that give life to replacement bulbs.
During all operations with Junons, one should try not to break off their roots.

In horticulture, the following types and forms of junon are found:

- Iris (Juno) aucheri - originally from Yu.V. Turkey. Beautiful view, long and successfully grown in Europe, but somewhat demanding for heat. Therefore, there are years when it may not bloom outdoors.

In the photo: Iris aucheri BLUE STAR; Iris aucheri PURPLE STAR; Iris bucharica

- Iris (Juno) bucharica hort... - its origin is unknown. It has been cultivated for a very long time. It differs from natural forms in the two-color color of flowers. One of the most unassuming representatives of Juno, it reproduces well vegetatively and grows successfully even without annual digging.

- Iris (Juno) cycloglossa- this species was found relatively recently (in 1972) in Afghanistan. The most distinctive of all Juno, it grows well in Lithuania. Has a branching leafless peduncle. Almost flat flower with very large limb lobes. It propagates vegetatively, usually producing 2 daughter bulbs.

- Iris (Juno) graeberiana - the origin of the species is unknown. Two forms are cultivated, in which the structure and color of flowers are slightly different. The most common form is with a white spot on the limbs of the lower petals of the flower. More rare form - with a yellow spot on the limbs. I did not observe seed setting in both varieties. Perhaps these are interspecific natural hybrids. They are one of the few tall Junons that grow well in our open field. Bloom annually and abundantly.

- Iris (Juno) NEW ARGUMENT - hybrid bred by me. The variety got its name not by chance. Its appearance confirmed the assumption that the famous van Tubergen hybrid Iris WARLSIND is most likely the result of accidental pollination of I. warleyensis with the pollen of I. bucharica hort, and not I. aucheri (as was thought earlier). The hybrid is sterile, grows well and reproduces.

In the photo: Iris hyb. NEW ARGUMENT; Iris magnifica ALBA

- Iris (Juno) magnifica ALBA - the white-flowered form of the species J. magnifica is endemic of the Zeravshan Mountains. The tallest of all juno, in good conditions it reaches almost a meter in height. Flowers are large, 7 - 9 pcs., Bloom sequentially. The bulb has numerous thick rhizomes that make digging up a tough job (however, it is not possible to dig them out annually). This variety is one of the few that thrives in the garden and is relatively undemanding. As a rule, the mother bulb produces two daughter bulbs annually. It sets seeds well, but seedlings do not always repeat the color of their parents and may have flowers with a bluish tint.

- Iris (Juno) BLUE MYSTERY- obtained as a seedling of I. willmottena. However, the plants turned out to be unusually large for this species and sterile, which clearly indicated their hybrid origin. According to their appearance it can be assumed that the parental pair was: I. willmottiana and I. magnifica. Yet this is nothing more than a guess, which is why the hybrid is called "BLUE MYSTERY". A beautiful juno that grows and reproduces well in our climate.

- Iris (Juno) kuschakewiczii - this is the case when diminutiveness does not detract from its merits. A real small diamond of the section, originally from the North-Western spurs of the Tien Shan. The plant is the rarest in culture and difficult. Of course, it will "disappear" in the plantings of tall species, but on and on it is irresistible.

- Iris (Juno) nicolai - the species is widespread in the Tien Shan mountains. The earliest of the Juno. It blooms after melting snow almost without leaves, they appear later. She makes a huge impression large flower pretentious form, growing directly from here and there snow-covered soil. Plants from different populations of the species differ in flower color. The species is not hardy enough for our climate, the planting of the Juno must be insulated with peat.

- Iris (Juno) orchioides - has a wide range in the mountains of Central Asia. Plants from different regions differ in height and color of flowers. A rather tall form with bright yellow flowers was obtained by me from the Alma-Ata Botanical Garden. Grows well outdoors. Heat-loving; blooms best if the previous summer was warm.

- Iris (Juno) SINDPERS is a famous hybrid of Van Tubergen. The plant is not tall, but its flowers are huge, beautifully shaped and very fragrant. Heat-loving, does not like cool rainy summers, should be planted in a sunny place. If there is an opportunity to grow a plant in a cold greenhouse, then you will fully enjoy its enchanting flowering.

- Iris (Juno) SHOCKING BLUE- selected from I. willmotteana seedlings. Its flowers are similar to the BLUE MYSTERY variety, but their color is more intense. Sterile.

- Iris (Juno) vicaria- the species is widespread in the mountains of Central Asia. The flowers are predominantly light, almost white in color. Populations with more or less purple petals are rare. Unpretentious, grows well and reproduces.

- Iris (Juno) warleyensis- one of the most beautiful juno, growing in the western spurs of the Tien Shan (Zeravshan ridge, Kugitang ridge). Plants from different natural populations differ in stem height from 15 to 40 cm. It grows well in open ground. but abundant flowering difficult to achieve, especially if the previous summer was cold. Good results are obtained if the bulbs are not dug out, but after the end of the growing season, cover the area from rain with glass or other transparent material. You can also put the bulbs in dry sand after digging and warm them up in a greenhouse. The species was used by Van Tubergen to create the WARLSIND hybrid. Despite multiple introductions, it is still rare in culture.

- Iris (Juno) WARLSIND is the tallest hybrid of Van Tubergen, as is now recognized by I. warleyensis and I. bucharica hort. It grows well in our climate, blooms annually, develops well and reproduces vegetatively.

Iridodictiums IRIDODICTYUM

Iridodictium (Iridodictyum)- a group of graceful bulbous irises blooming in early spring... Interesting are the faceted hollow leaves of iridodictiums growing vertically. A plant has exactly as many leaves as bulbs are subsequently formed. According to the structure of the leaves, the exception in the group is only a few species (Central Asian), which have grooved leaves.

In the photo: reticulated irises (Iris reticulata)

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Quite rare footage of a water sparrow - a dipper was made by Igor Mavrin, an employee of the Sokhondinsky Reserve, who works at the Bukukun cordon. And these photos are unique in that this bird is a rare guest in our area.

Dipper , or the common dipper (Cinclus cinclus) - bird detachment of passerines... She is also called water thrush or water sparrow... Bird small size plumagehas a dark brown, dense. Inhabits the banks of fast clear rivers and streams.

It feeds on aquatic insects and crustaceans, which the dipper gathers in shallow water, between stones and under water. The main feature is the ability to swim and dive well even in cold water. Raising its wings, deftly maneuvering in the stream of water, the bird seems to "run" along the bottom. A dipper can stay under water for up to 50 seconds, running up to 20 meters during this time. She is a very careful and sensitive bird.

“Recently I I met a bird, rare for our places, - a dipper. Its rarity is evidenced by the fact that for 28 years that I have been living in Zabaykalye, I saw her for the second time- commented the author himself unique pictures, Igor Mavrin, - and most importantly, I managed to take several photos of this feathered guest. "

Ivan Sergeevich Sokolov - Mikitov, a Russian writer-traveler, wrote about this amazing bird in his time very interesting: “You need to be a skillful observer of nature to see a wonderful dipper bird. If you have to visit deserted forests or mountainous places, look closely and listen carefully. On a clean and fast brook or river, perhaps you will be lucky enough to see a dipper! "

Drought is a long period with insufficient rainfall, which is most dangerous for plants when high temperature and low air humidity. It is necessary to help the plants survive in this difficult time, otherwise their development stops due to a lack of moisture.

The first sign of dehydration in a plant is loss of turgor, sluggish leaves and buds. If the plant does not make up for the loss of water at this stage, then its leaves and buds will then begin to turn yellow, dry and fall off; soon the process will spread to the entire aerial part of the plant. As long as the root receives at least a small amount of moisture from the ground, the plant in most cases can still be reanimated. Drying out of the root system means the death of the plant.

It may seem ridiculous that living in the UK, you can complain about the long absence of rainfall, because the old lady-Britain is known for its rainy climate. However, the south-east of England, where we live, is probably the “driest” place in the country - droughts happen here quite often. In the winters of 2004-2006. there has been a lack of rainfall that has broken all records since 1933!

According to information BBC Weather, since November 2004, we have received only 72% of the average precipitation. By the beginning of July 2006, there was a drought for about three weeks: there was virtually no rain at temperatures above 30 degrees during the day and 15-17 at night. Until the end, it will be possible to assess the damage from drought only next year if it affects the flowering of azaleas and rhododendrons, which are laying the buds of next year at this time.

The dry start to the 2006 season inspired drought-themed designers of the 2006 Chelsea Competition Gardens. An interesting element in African garden (GardenAfrica): the beds are arranged in a spiral with a slope. When watering, water flows from top to bottom along the boundary and collects in the center of the spiral, where the most moisture-loving plants are located

A garden that is not afraid of drought

Of course, the negative impact of drought on plants as a whole is determined by several factors: the duration of the drought, air temperature and wind strength during this period, the possibility of access to water and the availability of the necessary human resources. However, if you keep in mind the possibility of drought even during the strategic planning of the garden and planting, then you can initially take measures that will help the plants survive in the drought, and save labor and time for the owners.

> Try to sow and plant new plants in the spring or fall when there is enough rain and the plants take root and take root easily. On the other hand, it should be remembered that, in general, plants in containers are more vulnerable to drought than plants in open field. Therefore, if a new plant from the garden center somehow needs to be transplanted into the garden, I would also transplant it in the summer heat, making sure to ensure at first regular abundant watering and protection from direct sunlight.

> When planting and replanting plants, dig a deeper hole in the soil and be sure to add leaf humus or garden compost, which improve the structure and composition of the soil, allow moisture to penetrate freely to the roots and retain it there for a long time.

> Use special moisture-retaining granules or gel that are abundantly saturated with water during irrigation, and then gradually give this water to the roots. These products should be mixed with soil when planting or transplanting plants. They are especially important for container plants.

> Be sure to use mulch on flower borders, around shrubs and trees, and on top of pots and baskets of plants. Mulch should be laid out in spring - after warm weather sets in, and the earth warms up and is saturated with moisture. As mulching materials, you can use shredded tree bark, sawdust, shavings, needles, gravel, the same garden compost or special synthetic garden material... The choice of mulch depends on the type of plant (for example, bark, sawdust and needles, acidify the soil, so it is good to lay them under hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias, heathers and other acytophils). Mulching plants allows moisture to enter the soil during rains or watering, but makes it difficult for it to evaporate and also inhibits weed growth.

> Remove weeds in a timely manner that will compete fiercely with “cultivated” plants during a drought. Weeds are easier to remove when they just emerge from the ground.

> Plant adjacent plants back to back, leaving only the space needed for root development between them. Plant leaves close together reduce moisture evaporation and drying out of the soil

> If you, like me, live in a region with frequent droughts, then consider this when placing plants in sunny and shady areas of the garden. Give preference to drought tolerant plants. Often these plants have silvery foliage, needles, or thick leaves. Ornamental drought-resistant plants include: purse, wormwood, bluehead, lavender, santolina, cistus, poppy, euphorbia, yarrow, Iris, echinacea, acanthus, bergenia, etc.
Do not need watering, for example meadow flowers, succulents and ornamental grasses, aromatic plants, pumpkin, corn.

Watering plants in drought conditions

The ideal time for regular, scheduled watering is a calm late evening, when the heat has subsided, there is a cool night ahead, and moisture evaporation is minimal. We allow watering in the early morning, before the onset of heat. However, if on a hot day the plant looks dehydrated, then it should be watered immediately, avoiding water getting on the leaves to avoid sunburn.
If you are using an automatic irrigation system, remember to reset the timer according to the changed weather conditions - then the plants will receive more moisture they need during the dry season.

In hot weather, plants in containers should be watered twice a day: early morning and late evening. Place the pots on deep trays or planters that can hold some water. If you are unable to provide regular watering to container plants, then it is better to rearrange them in the shade.
Plants in greenhouses and greenhouses can suffer from overheating during heatwaves, as the temperature in a closed room behind glass rises much higher than in an open space. Do not forget to open the doors and windows of the greenhouse through and through on hot days and use the fans (if available).
Use a sprinkler to water young crops of grass or freshly laid sod every day. Place an open glass container in the spray area and finish watering when the water level reaches 13 mm (less will not be useful, and more will be wasted).

How to save water and effort

Due to lack of rain and dangerous low level reserves of drinking water, during the drought, we have introduced an official ban on watering private gardens with tap water from hoses. Theoretically, at this stage, we have no restrictions on the use of tap water for irrigation (although they may arise later, if the drought continues, and water supplies disappear, then stricter rules will come into force). However, in practice, the need to use a watering can instead of a hose itself imposes these restrictions, because the time and effort required to water the garden increases many times over. Then you have to make a very tough choice: what kind of plants you need to water today, otherwise they can be almost completely dehydrated until tomorrow.

If you have similar or some other restrictions, and watering abundantly, it does not work out qualitatively, you may find useful several simple methods that I use to save water, labor and time:

> Before watering your plants, set your priorities and stick to them. Watering is vital for seedlings just planted in open ground young plants, plants in containers (especially small ones), plants in greenhouses, fresh grass, freshly laid turf rolls and moisture-loving plants (eg coastal or marsh). These plants will die without water.

In second place can be plants that will not bloom if there is a lack of water, or fruit crops that cannot successfully bear fruit without watering (or any other plants, depending on your goals).

Watering is more necessary for plants on light, sandy soils, which dry out faster than heavy, clayey soils.

> Abundant and rare watering preferable to stingy and frequent. The fact is that a small amount of water penetrates only into the upper layer of the soil, contributing to the development of weak, high-lying roots, which are the first to suffer from drying out of the soil or frost. The development of a strong and deep root system that can support a plant in harsh weather conditions requires water to penetrate deep into the soil around the plant. The correct depth of soil moisture for watering is about 60 cm.

> If you plan to purchase and use a watering system in your garden, invest in a modern drip or jet system (instead of a traditional sprinkler system). The water delivered by such systems appears at the right time (late in the evening or even when you are not at home) thanks to a timer on the tap, gets exactly as intended to the roots of plants and is absorbed to the last drop, without wasting on watering neighboring weeds.

> Before watering, loosen the soil around the plant and make a small hole so that the plant is in the middle of the depression. All water after irrigation will remain in this hole and, as it is absorbed, will get to the roots of the plant, and will not spread over the dry soil. In the fall, with the arrival of rains, you can spud the plant by leveling the hole with the ground level in order to exclude stagnation of water at the roots. The rest of the time, try as far as possible not to disturb the soil during the drought period: any loosening contributes to additional evaporation of moisture from the soil.

> Remove the shower head from the watering can (or hose) and water the plant to the very root - then all the water will get to its destination, and not spread around the plant.

> To water the plants in containers, I use a large, wide container filled with water, in which I take turns placing the pots and hanging baskets for a while. Thus, all the soil in the container is soaked through and the plants receive a large amount of moisture. It is also an excellent way to urgently resuscitate already damaged plants with a dried earth clod, for which ordinary watering is completely useless. This method of moisturizing is not harmful even in the hottest hours, because water does not get on the leaves of plants.

From time to time, water from the container can be poured under some shrub, because a significant amount of nutrients from the soil of container plants has accumulated in it.

> Find an opportunity to use so-called “reclaimed” water (left over from washing, cleaning, washing dishes or showering) for watering ornamental plants, trees and shrubs. To do this, you may need to change drain system your house. The secondary water, along with the remains of household detergents, contains a lot of phosphates, which will delight your plants as a good fertilizer.

Remember that water from the dishwasher and washing machine cool to room temperature before watering the plants. It is advisable to use non-harmful to the environment, biodegradable detergents... Do not use water with residues of bleach, bleach, disinfectants and other strong chemicals to irrigate plants.

> Purchase and install special barrels in your garden to collect rainwater. These barrels are directly connected to a pipe, which receives water from gutters located around the perimeter of the roof of the house or greenhouse. The barrels are installed on an elevation so that you can substitute a watering can under the opening tap (or connect a hose to it). You will be able to use the water accumulated in the barrels to water the plants as needed.

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Among other species in your collection, be sure to ask which variety it belongs to and find information about the features home care- including that how to water properly new "green pet".

Below you will find practical advice to help you water most popular houseplants properly. We will cover issues such as the choice of utensils for watering flowers, what water to water the flowers with, the frequency of watering, signs of a lack of moisture, watering methods, and how to water orchids and other indoor plants during your vacation.

♦ TABLEWARE FOR IRRIGATION OF ROOM FLOWERS:

a watering can with a long spout. A practical tool - a long nose can easily be directed through a dense crown, under the lower leaves or directly under the root rosette, so as not to drip water onto the delicate leaves of the flower. Very convenient equipment for watering plants in a phytowall or in phytomodules (vertical gardening);

flask. A special device with an elongated tip and a spherical container for water. Such inventory can help out great when you need to leave for a long time. It is enough to fill the container with water and stick the nose of the flask into the soil, which will gradually become saturated with moisture as it dries;

spray gun for spraying (sprayer). By spraying with water from a spray bottle, additional moisture can be supplied through the tops of the plant. This method will help you preserve the decorative qualities of the plant in the summer heat or during the heating season, when the humidity level in the room is very low;

pallet with water. Great way additional moistening of the soil in the pot if the air in the room is too dry. Desirable flower pot put not directly into water, but on wet expanded clay or on pebbles in a pallet.

♦ WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF ROOM FLOWERS:

rain, river, pond water. Some flower growers prefer to water their indoor plants with melt and rainwater. Flowers respond well to watering with soft water from natural sources. But it is necessary to disinfect the water, add a few pieces of charcoal;

tap water. Most of the inhabitants of megalopolises water their flowers with tap water. But it is important to remember that chlorinated tap water with slightly soluble calcium salts is very hard. It is imperative to defend this water for at least 24 hours (or better, several days) before watering the flowers, and pour out the remains from the very bottom. Water the plants with water at room temperature or lukewarm.

- on the photo: signs of a lack and excess of water

♦ IRRIGATION FREQUENCY FOR ROOM FLOWERS:

❂ Most houseplants like regular and even watering to keep the substrate in a moderately moist state. If the period of abundant soil moisture is abruptly replaced by a period of insufficient moisture, then the flower begins to wither and may die;

❂ in winter period in many indoor plants, the growth and development processes slow down (or even stop altogether). The need for water with dissolved nutrients significantly decreases and the plant should be watered much less often (or not watered at all). And in the spring-summer period, with an increase in the duration of sunlight and an increase in temperature, the frequency of watering increases to 1-3 times a week;

❂ plants with large and wide leaves are watered more often (Benjamin's and rubbery ficus, Andre's anthurium, spathiphyllum, home begonia, gloxinia sinningia, jasmine gardenia, gerbera, balsam, shefflera, dieffenbachia). Bulbous species should be watered sparingly and less frequently, since waterlogging can lead to decay of the root system (hippeastrum, clivia, amaryllis, calla zantedeschia, oxalis oxalis, hyacinths, eucharis Amazon lily). Most types of potted orchids (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered no more than once a week in winter and no more than twice a week in summer. There are indoor species that can easily tolerate long breaks between waterings (succulent species - bastard Money Tree, aloe vera or agave, euphorbia triangular, zygocactus Decembrist, as well as species such as Blossfeld's Kalanchoe, chlorophytum, "mother-in-law's tongue" or sansevieria);

❂ ceramic (clay) pots have a good porous structure, circulation and evaporation of moisture is more active. But plastic pots retain water well in the substrate. Therefore, it is necessary to water a flower placed in a ceramic pot more often than in a plastic one.

In the photo: rare, moderate and abundant watering

♦ WAYS OF IRRIGATION OF INDOOR PLANTS:

❀ top watering. To water the flower from above, it is advisable to use special dishes with a long spout (watering can, flask). It is advisable to direct the spout closer to the stem so that water does not fall on the leaves. If the plant has a developed leaf rosette, try to direct the stream of water under it so that the water does not stagnate. Water the plant evenly, in small portions, to avoid stagnant water on top of the soil. Pour out all the water that flows into the pan. This is a versatile way to water indoor species. The disadvantage of this method is that the useful substances and sludge of the substrate are quickly washed out. Therefore, do not forget to feed the plants in time.

❀ bottom watering. Some types of decorative deciduous plants lose their attractiveness if water drops fall on the leaves (yellowish or black spots appear, the leaf blade is deformed). Therefore, the tray is filled with water for irrigation. Within 30-40 minutes, the substrate is moistened to the top layer and all excess water from the pan must be drained. The disadvantage of this method is that mineral salts are not washed out, on the contrary, they stay in the soil for a long time. If a lime crust appears on the surface of the soil, then carefully remove it along with the top layer by adding fresh substrate.

❀ immersing the pot in water. Highly good method moistening, allowing the soil to be completely saturated with water. Place the flower pot in a container of water so that water does not flow into the substrate through the edges of the pot. The water will quickly saturate all layers of the substrate through the drainage holes. Then place the pot on a wire rack so that any excess water can flow down freely. It is not advisable to use this method of moisturizing during the flowering period of the plant, when moving the pot can cause the buds and petals to fall off.

- tables with factors affecting the abundance and frequency of watering

♦ IRRIGATION OF INDOOR PLANTS DURING VACATION:

√ vacation up to two weeks.

We moisten the soil abundantly by immersing each pot in water;

☛ less often watering plants with small fleshy leaves, dormant, in a cool room with high humidity grown in plastic or glass containers;

☛ if the tap water contains too much lime, then it is advisable to pass it through a special filter in order to use soft water for irrigation;

☛ never use cold water for irrigation, as this can lead to the gradual death of peripheral roots, the appearance of viral and fungal diseases;

☛ the most ideal time for watering most indoor species is early morning (with sunrise);

☛ On hot summer days and during heating, it is necessary to spray the plants with a spray bottle. A container of water can be placed next to the plants for additional humidification.

♦ HOW TO WATER ORCHID AT HOME:

❶ You can water orchids only with warm, settled soft water. It is advisable to water the rare collection and whimsical indoor orchid species with diluted distilled water. Stir the separated water of medium hardness with distilled water in a 1: 1 ratio. Stir too hard water with distilled water in a 1: 2 ratio;

❷ If the orchid is without bulbs, then water it after the substrate is completely dry, and the lower leaves begin to lose turgor and shrivel. If the orchid has bulbs, then water the flower after the bulbs begin to wrinkle a little;

❸ During flowering, most popular domestic varieties (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered very sparingly, 2-3 times a week. Make sure that water never stagnates in the pot around the roots and flows freely from the drainage holes;

❹ The best way watering the orchid in the summer - soaking the pot in warm, settled water for 10-15 minutes. Be sure to make sure that the water completely drains out of the holes in the bottom of the pot after soaking;

❺ how often to water the orchid at home. Complete drying of the soil is much safer for the root system than overflow. Most species can be watered at a frequency that is defined as: Once the substrate is completely dry, you can moderately water the flower the next morning. But do not forget that the frequency of watering also depends on the following factors: the type of orchid, the growing season or dormant period, humidity and temperature in the room, the composition of the soil, the pot (volume, what material it consists of).

♦ VIDEO:

How to properly moisten the soil in a pot (for example, room begonia):
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ALSO FIND OUT ...

Heat and drought hit us unusually early this year. It's only May, and the weather is quite July. And just like in the height of summer, plants need water. Usually in the spring we have rains - not uncommon, and the nights are cold, with dews, so we have to think about watering much later.

Although, to be honest, I didn’t think too much about it: everything is intuitive. And then I decided to figure it out, how to properly water the garden: how much water each vegetable needs; how to determine if a plant is suffering from thirst; how often to water the beds, and so on. It turned out - it was not in vain that I decided: I learned a lot of interesting things for myself. I will share - maybe it will come in handy for you.

Watering for cabbage

Cabbage is perhaps the largest water lover of all vegetable crops... When she sets the heads, the watering rate is at least 30 liters per 1 sq. m... If cabbage suffers from thirst, it is immediately attacked by pests - cruciferous flea and cabbage fly. A pinkish-bluish bloom may appear on the leaves of the plant.

Cabbage, it turns out, needs to be watered in different ways, depending on the weather: if it is hot and dry, sprinkling is used, and in cool weather, it is watered at the root. In this case, the soil should be soaked to a depth of at least 40 cm.

Late varieties of cabbage are recommended to be watered daily, and early varieties - every 2-3 days, not allowing the soil to dry out. If, after a drought, you decide to water the plants abundantly, or suddenly it rains, this will only lead to the heads of cabbage cracking.

Water for tomatoes

The fact that the plant wants to drink is signaled by its leaves: during drought, they become smaller, take an upright position, and curl. The formed ovaries can also fall off, and if the fruits are already poured, they slowly grow and ripen, often apical rot appears on them.

Watering tomatoes is necessary at the root - sprinkling is permissible only in very hot and dry weather. Excessive moisture in the air can cause illness. For this culture recommend morning watering... When the first flowers appear, they are watered once a week, and then every 10-12 days, spending 30 liters of water per square meter.

How to water cucumbers

The cucumber loves water, so you need to water it often. Although he turned out to be a rather controversial nature 🙂 Judge for yourself:

• before flowering cucumbers can be watered no more than once a week (and not even watered at all if it rains) - so that the plants develop a strong root system;
• when the flowers appeared, it is necessary to water every 3-4 days, or even daily (if it is hot);
• preferable for cucumbers sprinkling- their foliage actively evaporates moisture; but if you find spots on the leaves that indicate a plant disease, sprinkling should be excluded and watered only in grooves laid along the row of plants;
• in warm weather, water should be after noon, but before 17.00, and if the nights are cold, it is recommended morning watering.

After watering, the soil under the cucumbers should be moist to a depth of at least 40 cm; under adult plants, for this you will have to pour out about 20-30 liters of water per 1 sq.m.

Water the eggplant and pepper

Thirsty eggplants and peppers stop growing and do not bloom. To avoid such a misfortune, every 7-10 days they need to be watered, spending 15-30 liters of water per 1 sq. M(depending on weather conditions).

Plants are watered at the root or in the furrows laid along the row. In the heat, you can use morning or evening irrigation, and if the temperature drops below +15 degrees, watering should be completely excluded - otherwise there is a risk of damage to plants by gray rot.

How much water do carrots and beets need

Carrot seeds should be in moist soil before the first shoots appear. Often, gardeners use a film: it does not allow moisture to evaporate, and you can water the carrot bed much less often. With the emergence of seedlings, the film must be removed, and then every 10 days, water the plantings abundantly using a watering can with a fine strainer. Watering is stopped 3 weeks before harvesting. Water consumption - 30 l per 1 sq. M.

If there is not enough water, carrots can form a rough, ugly root vegetable, or even discard the peduncle altogether. You can guess that the plant suffers from thirst by the slightly twisted and darkened leaves.

But beets do not require such worries - they can be watered much less often. For the entire season, it is enough to water the beetroot crops 4-5 times (of course, if it is not very hot and there are occasional rains). The water consumption is the same as for carrots, and it is recommended to water it in the early morning or evening, in the grooves along the plants.

But it is also not worth overdrying the beets: from drought, like carrots, they can go on to the formation of peduncles instead of forming a root crop. And if it does, it will come out tough and tasteless. The lack of watering of beets is signaled by the brown-violet color of the foliage, which, moreover, becomes noticeably smaller during drought.

When you need watering onions and garlic

The yellowing tips of the feather remind: it's time to water. But if the weather is rainy, these crops make do with natural moisture; in a dry and hot one, you will have to go out to the garden bed with a watering can or a hose every 5-6 days.

When about a month remains before harvesting, watering should be stopped altogether: from excess moisture, the bulbs ripen worse, and then they are poorly stored in winter. Plants need the most water when the bulbs are poured - the norm at this time is 30-35 l per 1 sq. M... In the spring, while the root system is being formed and foliage is growing, no more than 30 liters per 1 sq. M. Are used.

How to water zucchini and pumpkin

These crops do not need water very often, but in large quantities:

• zucchini- once a month, 20 liters per plant;
• pumpkin- before hilling, once in a volume of 7-8 liters per plant; then they do not water it for about a month, after which every 10 days, 10 liters are poured under each bush, stopping watering completely a month before harvesting.

Watering should be done only at the root; pour water very carefully so as not to expose the root system. Choose for "water procedures" in the morning or evening hours: during the day, the likelihood of burns is too high.

Do potatoes need watering

Frankly, I never watered potatoes until this spring. I read, of course, that watering is also necessary for him, but he grew well with me without it. And then I was afraid that in the dry hot ground the tubers would simply bake instead of sprouting. In general, it is recommended to water the potatoes once a week, according to 20-30 liters of water per 1 sq. M landings. If, after watering, the soil is slightly dried, loosened and mulched with humus or peat, then you can do it once a month.

Do you often have to water the garden or does the weather take over some of the work? And how do you water - according to the rules or by intuition? 🙂

Source: 7dach.ru