What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

To properly install the toilet on tile follow our step by step instructions equipped with photos and videos.

Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Full time: ~ 24 hours.

Preparing the room for installing a toilet

It is more correct to install the toilet in a completely renovated room so as not to damage the plumbing. You must have a hole ready for the outgoing sewer pipe, as well as a water outlet for the cistern.

Tools and Materials Needed for Correct Installation

To install the toilet, we need the following tools and materials:

Adjustable spanner
Flexible hose
Fum tape
Pencil or felt-tip pen
Yardstick
Hammer
Dowels and bolts (must be included with the toilet)
Plumbing grease
Liquid silicone
Rubber spatula

The order of the correct installation of the toilet with your own hands

Step 1. Lead to the drain tank

Shut off the water supply to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A tap must be connected here. An angle or straight faucet of your choice can be used. Seal the threads on the faucet with fum tape and screw the faucet into the water outlet. If using a corner faucet, screw it down so that it faces down. Close the tap valve.

Screw the flexible hose to the tap outlet. It is not necessary to use fum tape, since a sealing elastic is provided in the design of the flexible hose of the liner.

Step 2. Marking the reference point for the installation of the toilet

To place the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along the two marks. This line will be our guideline determining the direction correct installation toilet bowl.

Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain

If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening points towards the toilet outlet pipe at a smoother angle.

Advice: To make it easier to connect the two pipes, use plumbing grease. Apply it to the inside of the drain hole (lubricate the rubber o-ring) and to the outside of the elbow pipe that will fit into the hole.

The drain can be connected to the toilet outlet in two ways:

hard plastic adapter;
flexible corrugation.

In both cases, when inserting the connector, use a plumbing lubricant as indicated above.

Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor

Advice: Do not connect the cistern to the toilet beforehand. When and how to connect the cistern to the toilet, you will learn later in the article.

Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the toilet seat support must be smooth and free from defects. Scrape it off with a sharp knife if necessary.

Place the toilet base on the floor at the installation location. Use the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to position the toilet correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distance from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.

Connect the toilet nipple to the adapter drain system and outline the perimeter of the base of the toilet with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help in the future to install it without additional measurements. Also mark the locations of the holes for the fasteners on both sides.

Step 5. Fastening the toilet to the tile floor

Move the toilet to the side and drill holes in the tiles for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Drive plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tiles.

Reinstall the toilet in its place along the drawn lines and connect it to the drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet bowl into both mounting holes, but only halfway.

Step 6. Additional fastening of the toilet with liquid silicone

Raise the toilet by 0.5-1 cm, put some coasters in two or three places (use what you have at hand - plastic, pieces of tiles, etc.). In the gap between the base of the toilet and floor tiles insert the white liquid silicone very gently. Do this around the entire perimeter of the toilet base. Lift the edges of the toilet with your hands and add silicone while removing the stands. The silicone should be evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the base of the toilet and create an abundant "cushion".

Lower the toilet and tighten the fixing screws all the way by hand (do not use excessive force). Remove excess silicone from the outside with a plastic spatula moistened with soapy water. Form a nice piping around the entire perimeter of the base.

It is necessary to wait a few hours (see the silicone hardening period on the package), and only then proceed with the installation of the toilet.

How to install a toilet flush mechanism

Put a gasket on the thread of the main flush device and insert it into the technological hole of the flush tank. On the reverse side, tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.

Advice: We recommend installing the locking device that controls the water supply to the cistern after installing the cistern on the toilet. This will make the tightening of the fastening screws more convenient - you will not get in the way of the extra mechanism inside the tank.

When installing the locking device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose is put on. Remove any irregularities so that the further connection is tight. Insert the locking device into the hole in the tank provided for it and tighten it from the back with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools, hand tighten the nut.

How to install a toilet cistern

After the silicone has completely hardened and the tank drain mechanism is assembled, you can proceed to install it on the toilet.

Between the cistern and the base of the toilet, it is necessary to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (supplied with the toilet). Then slide the cistern onto the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet line up with the holes on the cistern. The connecting screws must have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone. Insert the fixing screws into the holes of the cistern and use the plastic nuts (horns) to twist them on the other side. When tightening the screws, make sure that the tank is horizontal.

Screw the flexible water supply hose to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of fum tape, since the connection will take place through a rubber gasket.

The installation of the cistern on the toilet is completed, you can open the tap and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.

Put the cap on the drain tank so that all the elements of the trigger are in the hole. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this point, the installation of the toilet cistern is complete.

How to install a toilet seat and toilet bowl

The simplest thing remains. Place the toilet seat on the toilet and thread the mounting screws through the holes. Tighten the screws on the back of the toilet lightly. The toilet seat is now installed.

Video lesson: How to properly install the toilet on the tiled floor in the toilet

The work has been completed. You installed the toilet with your own hands and rest assured you did it right!

Implementation implies: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet bowl; 2. Dismantling the old toilet bowl; 3. Preparation of the surface for fastening; 4. Installation of a toilet bowl; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Pressing
All these points are interconnected, they can be said not separate.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You should carefully read and apply in practice, and what the result will turn out to be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and buying a toilet

Toilet bowls are divided:

By appointment

- for children (small dimensions, painted in various colors, common use in preschool institutions)
- for people with disabilities (added handrails, armrests, have a wide bowl, adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- suspended
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By release

- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (into the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
- hi-tech

By body material

- sanitary faience
- san porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

By installing the tank

- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
The cisterns, in turn, differ in flushing modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as water supply: bottom, side, back.

And finally by color

Here, as the saying goes, "the taste and color ..."

I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important in my opinion for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl release, and the double mode of flushing the tank.

Discharge direction from the toilet

Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or out of the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the bell, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of the bathroom.
In the photo, visually what I'm talking about:
Agree that in this case, a toilet bowl with an oblique outlet is more suitable, the wall would have approached two or three hundred millimeters, at least. I have encountered such situations more than once, and not even two, I installed a "carriage and a small cart" for my activity. You come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is completely impossible to turn it into the position you need. The customer makes a helpless gesture, they say - I did not think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. You have to sacrifice something, as in the photo - a useful area.
But then, since you are reading the article, do not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and cistern for cracks and chips.
Examine carefully the internal cavities of both the cistern and the toilet.
Inspect the toilet bowl outlet, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: a seat, anchorage to the floor (wall). If the package does not have a seat, match it according to the shape.
If you have delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

In case of visual detection of a defect, refuse to buy, believe me it is very offensive, after installing the device, ascertain the puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for a smarmy.
Buy a flexible hose (hose) to connect to the water pipe here. If you do not have a faucet separately shutting off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend purchasing and installing it.

Toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come complete with a toilet, I think you yourself will decide which option is most acceptable to you - hinged, either installed on the toilet, or hidden.
Let me just draw your attention to the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can adjust the water drain. I see no reason to explain when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide for the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The efficiency of water consumption is evident.

Dismantling an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, so it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if it is necessary to purchase any part, the stores work up to a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing- we make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilet bowls, the CD can not be removed, but as it is, we will send it to the trash. We inspect the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the outlet of the toilet bowl is usually embedded in concrete, we make sure that there are no cracks, if they are present, then dismantle with caution.

We unscrew the fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. It is impossible to loosen, we break the neck with the sharp end of a hammer in the immediate vicinity of the bell, the blows are not to say that they are strong, but there is no hell to be liberal either.
We split it, took off the pot, we take out all this economy. To avoid injuries by fragments of faience, sweep the bathroom.

Second step- embossing the cast-iron socket, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Wearing safety glasses, we get rid of foreign materials without tricky manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the flare is cleaned, the less chance of leakage in this place when using a newly installed toilet.
We strive for the following result:

But what if we are waiting for this - "surprise" - an additional insert? And it is necessary to remove it, well, "bleeding from the nose", but we are pursuing the goal of installing the toilet professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Attention

In no case do we grab the hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where it would be desirable. Breaking this rule is fraught with costly and time consuming problems.

To help we take a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the "hollow-drill" mode we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the insert pipe.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow drilling freely, in this case we cut off the insert in the immediate vicinity of the socket with a grinder, but remember: cutting off you are deprived of the possibility of loosening, so to speak, therefore we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn out.

Burning out is appropriate if the cavity was caulked or filled with sulfur, if filled with concrete or lead - the method does not work.

Before proceeding with the burning, we ensure that the room is sufficiently ventilated and that there are no flammable agents and materials nearby. The video will clearly show how this is done:

If that doesn't work, then there's only one way to get rid of that fucking insert: cut. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the insert at the very bell, visually find a thin place of the "residue" and aim at it. We put on the grinder a small (already ground off when performing other work) circle and make cuts from the inside. Two closely spaced cuts in the thinnest place you make trying along the entire length of the "remainder", that is, there, inward. You can cut out a fragment of the type - kerchiefs, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then, by tapping with a hammer, tear off the remaining piece from our "familiar" place. If there are further difficulties with removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the stamp is behind.

Guys, if someone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills in using a grinder, then here is a link to a photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Disassembling cast-iron waste pipes turned out to be a problem
And waiting for us next step.

Surface preparation for fastening

The toilet was installed on a hard surface - great, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - to taffeta.
Taffeta is a board, fifty millimeters thick, embedded in the floor; in the old days, it was on it with screws or nails that a toilet was fastened. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will figure this out. Remove the taffeta, clean the released cavity. The involved tool to the side.

We mix the mortar from a mixture of sand with cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement for four parts of sand, my advice to you is dilute one part of cement into three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening ...
We fill the cavity with the solution, even with the floor surface, but we do not have time to wait until it grabs, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed virtually hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, even if it is electric or gas, we take out the baking sheet from the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.

Is there a broom at hand? We sweep out the trash. Remember, workplace mess leads to injury.
We pass to the next stage.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close to the sewer as possible, and with the minimum use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). It does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings with which you can "play". For now, let's look at the connection directly.
We will connect with a branch pipe, which is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the branch pipe with technical vaseline or elementary water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the branch pipe has sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and use our imagination to draw the trajectory of the coaxiality of the outlet of the toilet and the inlet sewer. Moving further or moving closer the device, we achieve the best comparability - actually with - the bell at an angle. Have you got it? Slip on the tank and make sure it fits without hitting the wall.
We take a tape measure, we start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that we put from the landing of the pipe on the neck and the size we need will be. We put this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the cut. That's it, the connecting piece is ready.

Now we need a transitional cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it along the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before you smear, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut out a small fragment from it, it does not fit in full size. If so, the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Next: we coat the cuff driven into the tee from the inside with a sealant, press the pipe until it stops. We coat the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All the pot is in place.

I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:

If it is impossible to do without this, then feet in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Available for sale and corrugated pipes for a toilet, there are reinforced and not reinforced, if any suits you, then please use, but this is not an ideal connection.

At the beginning of the article, I recommended buying a crane, I hope you initially screwed it to the exit water pipe for the tank, if not, then now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually make sure of the tightness of the joints, if there is a "joint", then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

We pass to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

There is an instruction with a new toilet bowl, study and in accordance with it assemble the tank, if the fittings on it are all already screwed on, just make sure it is tightened, tighten if necessary. Do not be too zealous, all the same you are dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic is a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: the inlet of water, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and the drain device (some have two-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I will tell you only one thing: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, so it is not always appropriate to coat it with a sealant, but only when it is necessary to do without it, whether it is necessary or not, will the pressure test reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with a uniform effort.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the setting of various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to avoid touching the reinforcement elements, both with each other and with the walls of the tank.

We open the tap and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and float are regulated, using simple movements above - below, set the filling and drain modes that are convenient for you. Make sure that the float blocks the water before it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the release button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible hose with an inlet device
- inlet valve with tank body
- cistern with a toilet through the gasket
- bolts of fastening the tank to the toilet bowl by means of tapered gaskets
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric) with a cuff
- cuffs with a flared sewer tee
- toilet bowl and baking sheet

With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing device simply must work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, gathering puddles, then it is natural to eliminate it.

Three examples, so to speak, not foreseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many "gurus" of plumbing, advise initially not to coat the rubber gasket between the cistern and the toilet with sealant. It is inappropriate not at all out of fear of smearing everything or "hands-on" - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when plastered, it slides, and when trying to tighten the fastening bolts, it slides out of its place.
So, if you find a leak from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, lightly press down along the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin stream of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if the norm, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- the cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
- the saddle is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the seats of the saddle gasket are rough, having coated the gasket with sealant, get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven adherence of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet bowl.

Well, let's not talk about sad things, they pressurized, everything is in order. The only task left is to fix our toilet to the floor.

You will have to do this after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We shut off the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently displaced, with a pencil or marker we mark the places for drilling. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put in place and fasten. We pull in without applying much effort.

In case of uneven adhesion to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
To avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, the place where the toilet bowl adheres to the floor around the entire perimeter is coated with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Installation tools:

So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
- open-end wrenches 10 * 12, 13 * 14
- roulette
- hammer drill with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder who does not have the skills to use, we replace it with a sheet for metal, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- sanitary sealant, linen or fum tape

Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:

Well, that's all, dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet on your own? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Weigh your capabilities again, think about whether it is worth getting involved with, it might be easier to pay a plumber a third of the cost of a pot, and calmly drink beer in front of the TV?
And then I look at articles on the Internet darkness, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes - simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

There are any questions, or there is something to add to the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles, the form will open when scrolling to the bottom of the page, I assure you there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that's all for me today, success in editing, with respect

Today it is difficult to imagine a bathroom without such an important and necessary plumbing device as a toilet. A lot of people have already had to edit it, or at least watch how a professional does it. If this work is just ahead of you, then you should familiarize yourself with all the subtleties and learn the technology correct installation... It is also very important to know what is needed for - what materials and fixtures may be needed. The final result and the life of the device will depend on how well you prepare.

Required materials for installing a toilet

At first, it may seem that installing a toilet bowl to communications is a fairly simple process that anyone can perform. However, in this case, it is very easy to make a mistake, which can be costly. If you do not read the instructions and act inattentively, the equipment may be damaged. This should never be allowed. Let's take a closer look at what tools and materials you will need in your work:

Corrugated pipe, which is used to connect the toilet with the sewer.
Flexible hose of a certain length. Through it, cold water will be supplied to the tank.
Ball valve, with the help of which the water supply will be adjusted.
Sealing agent with silicone. All joints and connections are processed with it.
Sealing tape required for the tightness of the inlet pipe of the water supply, if there is an internal thread there.
Cement for leveling the floors in the bathroom, if necessary.
Toilet seat fasteners, which, most of all, come with the product. It usually comes with bolts, plastic anchors, washers and bolt plugs, and screws.

If the complete set of the toilet does not include all these devices, you will need to purchase them yourself.

Plumbing Installation Tool List

But the installation of a toilet bowl on a tile cannot be done without the following tools:

Perforator or drill;
Drills of two types - for concrete and for ceramics;
An adjustable wrench, which is used to install the hose;
Core for chips on ceramic tiles, it will reduce the slip of the drill;
Hammer for driving dowels;
Rubber spatula to remove excess silicone sealant;
A pencil, which will have to outline the contour of the base of the toilet, as well as mark the bolt attachment points;
The screwdriver with which you will tighten the fasteners.

If you are not just installing a new toilet, but making a replacement, you will also have to dismantle the old device. In this case, you may also need to level the damaged floor surface. Be that as it may, before starting work, be sure to disconnect the plumbing device from the water supply system.

How is the toilet installed?

After all Finishing work have been finished and the floor surface has been leveled, proceed with the installation. In order to connect the plumbing device to the sewer system, a corrugated pipe is needed. One end of it is put on the toilet drain pipe, and the other - on the sewer drain pipe.

Well, if the pipe outlet coincides with the drain, then you can do without a corrugated pipe. Here the connecting element is a rubber seal with an edging. If you want to use a sealant, then in no case cement the place where the drain goes into the sewer.

How to ensure the flow of water to the cistern? A flexible hose will come in handy. It is screwed onto a water tap that supplies water to the inlet of the tank. Then you need to make sure that the diameter of the fasteners at both ends of the hose is the same.

While the connection is made, you can begin to mount the device to the floor or to the wall. It depends on the type of plumbing fixture. Of course, the toilet must be assembled first. When the base is securely mounted in the floor, a tank is attached to it and a pipe is supplied from a suspended tank, which is fixed to the wall.

After these works are completed, you need to test the operation of the device, as well as adjust the tank. To do this, include water, which must fill the tank. By adjusting the float, adjust the water level to the desired level. Then water can be constantly collected in a certain amount. The cover is attached. To do this, in the upper area of the bowl on the side from the wall, mount the fasteners into the holes provided by the manufacturer.

Features and methods of fixing the toilet

Now we know what is needed to install a toilet and it is time to consider the very process of installing a plumbing fixture in its rightful place. There are three main ways to mount the toilet to the floor:

Fastening with dowels or anchors, which are poured into the screed;
Fastening to a base made of wood, which has been mounted in a screed using screws;
Fixing to the floor on epoxy resin.

Professionals give the following tips for toilet installation in all of these cases. Consider the option of fastening with anchor bolts, as well as a wood base. It is very convenient if at the same time overhaul floor in the bathroom. Then these two procedures can be combined while a screed will form on the floor.

Anchors are placed in the place where the device should be located and where it is supposed to be fastened. They should protrude 5-6 cm above the surface of the screed. It will be better if you have to cut off excess, than the length of the anchors will not be enough. Then it will not be possible to fix the nut on it.

A wooden stand must fully match the size and shape of the base. Following a checkerboard pattern, nails are driven into it throughout the square. They should protrude from the back. Now the board can be turned over and installed where the toilet will be.

The screed is poured with concrete so that only the outer side of the stand is visible on the surface. The toilet is placed on a substrate and screws are inserted into the holes. If you need to fix the toilet on a tiled floor, then they resort to the following technique. To prevent cracking of the tile, rubber washers are put on the dowels and anchors. It will also help with unsightly rust stains on the floor. Anchors or bolts are best selected with a nickel-plated coating. In this case, it will be easy for you to remove the fasteners when they fail and need to be replaced.

If you do not change the tiled floor, and it is not possible to mount the device in a screed, what is required to install the toilet in this case? It will be ideal to install on dowels, or on epoxy resin. In this case, the coating will not be damaged.

In order to use the dowels, you first need to make holes through the tile and screed, and screw the screws into it. To ensure that the waterproofing of the floor is not compromised, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the holes. If the screed is too thin, a little silicone sealant must be poured into these holes. It is better that the screws are "dressed" in rubber washers, then they will not scratch the floor during the tightening process.

Better if the base of the toilet and the floor are separated by a layer of sealant. It must be applied before tightening the bolts. If you don't want to use any fasteners, then resin will help you out. Also, this method is suitable if the installation will be carried out on a wall.

Before applying the resin, the floor must be cleaned with sandpaper... This will roughen the surface and help the two surfaces to adhere better. The glue base is applied to the toilet and on the floor with a thin layer, just a couple of millimeters. Do not touch the toilet until the resin is completely dry.

Installing a wall-hung toilet

Recently, it is gaining more and more popularity. It is easy to install it yourself. The advantage of this installation is that unaesthetic traces of fasteners and, in general, no traces of any kind remain on the floor. The toilet is mounted on a frame made of metal profiles. It is installed on a load-bearing wall. At the same time, the tank and pipes will easily hide behind a fake drywall wall.

If the frame is not provided for, then the toilet bowl can be attached directly to the wall. But then, most likely, you will have to move the sewer pipe inside the wall. The device is mounted using anchors.

fix the gasket in the hole on the toilet shelf;
put the tank in place;
bolts with gaskets put on them are inserted into the fastening holes inside the tank and the nuts are baited from below (under the toilet shelf);
tilt the tank to one side so that it sags here by 1.5-2 cm, and tighten the nut on this side;
tighten the second nut until the reservoir is leveled;
install drain fittings and float valve close the lid.

Wall mount

The toilet, as if attached to the wall, is called. In fact, it is attached to a steel frame - after which the space where it is located is sewn up with a false wall (plasterboard partition). The cistern is installed inside the installation, so that in the end only the toilet is visible, as if bolted to the wall.

Installation of a suspended structure

First of all, you need to decide which installation will be used:

wall... A significant part of the load is transferred to the wall, so the latter must be capital. This is the most preferable option, since such installations are shallow;
outdoor... The load is transferred exclusively to the floor, the wall is not used. Such installations can even be installed next to plasterboard partitions. The disadvantage is increased depth.

Installation of suspended structures

in this order:

Water connection and end of installation

water supply is supplied to the tank inside the installation. Since access to communications will be difficult, it is not recommended to use flexible eyeliner due to its fragility. It is more correct to make a polypropylene pipeline, metal-plastic on press fittings (threaded ones need to be tightened over time) or copper;
the pipe is connected to the threaded fitting of the valve in the tank;
unlike a flexible hose, the pipe connection must be sealed. It is more convenient for a beginner to do this with FUM-tape or linen thread Tangit-Unilok. Experienced craftsmen tow or sanitary flax is used, but if you go too far with such material due to inexperience, the screw-on fitting may burst after the seal has been impregnated with water.

Check:

put the bowl on the studs and connect it to the drain hole and the tank - so far without fastening and sealing;
supply water to the tank, while watching for leaks in the water supply;
pressing a button flushes water into the toilet, checking the sewage system for leaks.

After checking, the bowl is removed and leaks are eliminated, if any have been identified, then:

wrap the installation with the supplied heat insulator. It serves to prevent moisture condensation on the surface and reduce the noise of bubbling water;
the installation is sewn up with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Before starting work, protective sleeves are put on the studs to prevent contamination of the threads. A template for cutting openings and holes in gypsum plasterboard is supplied with the installation;
after installation plasterboard partition or other facing material.

The bowl is installed last:

cut the pipes from the drain tank and leading to the sewer so that they protrude outward by 50 mm;
put a special trapezoidal gasket on the studs and on the nozzles;
fix the bowl on the studs and connect it to the pipes;
install a set of rubber gaskets and plastic inserts;
screw the bowl with nuts;
trim the protruding edges of the gasket.

The installation is complete, you can perform a final check and use the device. The height of the toilet is adjustable within 40-43 cm - for this, the position of the pins and special pins is changed. The standard height is 40 cm.

	H	h	h1	L	l	l1	B	b
With one-piece cast shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to make toilets with a length of 575 mm)	330	435	340 and 360	260
Without integral cast shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	460	330	435	340 and 360	260
Baby	335	285	130	405	280	380	290	210

Dismantling the old toilet

First step . We shut off the water supply and drain off all the liquid.

Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.

Third step. We unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusted, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. Press the head of the bolt with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If it does not work out, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.

Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.

Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet bowl drain from the sewer.

In old houses, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, we use a hammer and a chisel. We need to chop up the cement and gently rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should twist and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.

If the toilet has a floor outlet, it is necessary to clean the wax ring

Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.

Important! Sewer gases do not smell very pleasant. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to consider this point in the process of work.

Preparing for installation

The base for installing the toilet should be flat. There are several options for the development of events, namely:

if the floor is tiled and has no level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
if the floor is tiled and not even, we install the toilet with chopiks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chops are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chops with screws;
if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.

We pay attention to pipes. Sewer from debris and various sediments, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.

How to install a conventional toilet

As a rule, when sold, the toilet and the cistern are disconnected. The internal reinforcement of the barrel is most often already assembled, which greatly facilitates the installation process.

First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.

Floor marks for fasteners

Second step. We remove the toilet and drill the mounting holes in the marked places.

Third step. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.

Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special gaskets. We tighten the fasteners. Do not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners, or even the toilet itself. We pull until rigid fixing of the sanitary ware to the surface is ensured. We close the fasteners with plugs from above.

Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The assembly manual usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.

Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.

Video - Installing the Compact toilet bowl with wall outlet

Prices for components for toilets and urinals

Accessories for toilets and urinals

If the release is on the wall, we work like this:

If the release is set up on the floor, we do the following:

Helpful advice! If the connection between the toilet and drain pipe is performed using a corrugation; in most cases, sealing can be dispensed with, because the design of such a transition hose is itself capable of providing a sufficiently tight fit.

Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drainage mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly procedure for different models may differ slightly).

We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.

The most convenient way to install fasteners is:

Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it breaks in somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.

Let the tank fill up several times and drain the water. If everything is ok, we take the toilet into permanent operation.

Modern installation option. A special wall installation is used, in which the cistern mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the flush button are visible.

We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation

Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation

The first stage is the installation of the frame

We carry out installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use with any toilet bowl.

The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width must exceed the width of the tank.

The second stage - we hang the tank

The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

place the drain button at about a meter distance from the floor;
between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet bowl;
the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
We hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
we maintain no more than 15 mm distance between the cistern and the wall.

The third stage - we mount the finished installation

We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are found, do the following:

The fourth stage - we install the tank

First, we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost all modern models cisterns allow you to choose between the two options.

Important! When installing the toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, would you want to destroy the frame skin for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!

The best way to connect is to use plastic pipes... All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that is not always the case.

We connect the outlet of our toilet with the sewerage system. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.

Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may differ depending on the product model. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's manual.

The fifth stage - we cover the installation

To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it with a double layer. First, we do the following:

screw the pins for hanging the toilet into the frame (included in the kit);
we close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they do not get clogged with dust and debris;
we make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.

We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame using special screws. Maintain the fastening step at the level of 30-40 cm. The structure will have small size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.

We cover the drywall with tiles or trim it in another way at our discretion.

Helpful advice! Before starting the tiling of the box, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.

Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet

Sixth stage - install the toilet

To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). These steps can be performed in reverse order, as you prefer. We tighten the fastening nuts.

Important! Previously, the tile that will come into contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (you can install a gasket instead).

You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.

The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.

First step. Fix the knee position firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.

Second step. Treat the outlet of the toilet with technical ointment.

Third step. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.

Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the included mounting brackets according to the markings.

Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure the plumbing fixture with bolts or other fasteners supplied.

Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installation. wall model toilet bowl.

Seventh step. We bring the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for continuous operation.

Read our new article - and also find out what the varieties are, how to choose and install.

Video - Installing a side-mounted toilet with a hidden cistern

Happy work!