What can be cooked from squid: fast and tasty

GROWING FRUIT TREES ON A TROLLEY Save it so you don't lose it! Even heat-loving fruits such as apricots or peaches can be grown on trellises of a certain shape. They ripen well on the sunny side of the house, even in places where the climate is quite severe and unsuitable for the cultivation of such crops. More hardy varieties of apple and pear trees, when properly pruned, become more compact and yield fragrant fruits even on the east and west sides of the house, which are not usually used for such purposes. It is important that the trellis - a structure made of wood or wire - is reliable, firmly fixed in the ground, capable of supporting the weight of the plant. Think about how you will repair it, because fruit trees live a long time. Pruning to give trees the desired shape, although it requires certain skills, does not require too much effort if you choose the right species and varieties for this. The trellis wire is easily deformed, therefore, before tying the shoots, it must be additionally tightened. Willow rods are a natural binding material. Over time, their binding power weakens, so there is no danger that the rods will grow into the bark of the branches that increase in size. Tapestry forms Horizontal two-shouldered cordon - two branches are directed in different directions horizontally and tied to a tightly stretched wire. The lateral shoots that appear then are shortened. Fan palmette - lateral shoots are directed horizontally to the right and left of the trunk or diagonally upwards. Vertical palmette - the minimum distance between the individual "floors" should be 30 cm. The most suitable form of trellis for apricots, peaches, as well as cherries and sweet cherries is a fan palmette. Stone fruit crops for fan trellises 1. Flat peaches include the variety ‘Nikitsky flat’. So they are called because of the characteristic shape of the fruit. Juicy pulp is easily separated from the stone and almost does not lose juice when biting the fruit. 2. ‘Northern Triumph’ is one of the most reliable apricot varieties for the Non-Black Earth Region: winter-hardy, resistant to spring frosts and various diseases, and even self-pollinating. In spring, the tree blooms beautifully, and by the end of summer, juicy and fragrant fruits ripen on it, which firmly adhere to the branches even with strong winds). 3. Sweet cherry ‘Ovstuzhenka’ refers to conditionally self-fertile varieties. The flowers are resistant to spring frosts. appearance and taste reminiscent of southern cherries. All classical and modern artificial forms of crowns were developed mainly for apple and pear trees. On the fan palmette, you can also grow stone fruits - apricots, cherries, peaches and some berry bushes, such as currants. But not all varieties of fruit trees are suitable for shaping: Some apple trees with very strong branching (anise, pepin, Chinese) and those in which the bulk of the fruit is formed on long annual branches are difficult to figure pruning. It may not always be successful to use plants of summer varieties. They will give apples very early, shed their leaves and lose all their decorative effect. Also, trees with small nondescript fruits are not suitable for creating artificial forms. But apple trees of late varieties with bright, noticeable fruits will delight the eye until late autumn. Low maintenance apple cultivars 1. ‘Desired’ is an apple cultivar with fruits of late summer ripening, winter-hardy and resistant to scab. Suitable for growing on dwarf rootstocks. 2. Variety ‘Gala Schniga’ comes from South Tyrol. Brightly colored fruits of sweet and sour taste ripen in September. Trees of this variety lend themselves to the most modern types of formation and are ideal for growing on trellises. 3. ‘Christmas’ - a variety with fruits of early winter ripening, absolutely resistant to scab. Attractive dessert-flavored apples can be stored until the New Year and beyond. 4. The American variety ‘Welsey’ has been well known in Russia since the end of the 19th century. It is valued for its high yield and excellent taste of large beautiful fruits of winter consumption. According to the nature of the growth of the main branches, it is suitable for fan-type trellises. Varieties of pears for wall trellis 1. Pear variety ‘Chizhovskaya’ is the most popular among gardeners near Moscow, it was bred at the Timiryazev Moscow Agricultural Academy. The pear fruits of this summer and very winter-hardy variety are sweet and sour, with a delicate aroma, they can hang on a tree for a long time without crumbling. 2. ‘Cathedral’ - also summer winter-hardy variety, created in Timiryazevka and intended for middle lane Russia. The fruits ripen in the second half of August, suitable for drying. 3. ‘Otradnenskaya’, although not the most delicious fruits, is very bright, does not crumble for a long time and is very keeping - up to 120 days (at 0 ° C). And the plants themselves are resistant to extreme conditions environment and disease. 4. ‘Naryadnaya Efimova’ - an early autumn pear variety, bred back in 1936. The fruits, however, should be picked a little unripe for food and allowed to lie down for 2-3 weeks. The advantage of fruit trees with artificially formed crowns is not only decorative: Firstly, they are compact (this is convenient for small garden plots). Secondly, such crowns are better illuminated by the sun and ventilated, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases. And as a result, the fruits are larger, with a rich (typical for the variety) taste. And thirdly, it is much easier to take care of such trees and it is more convenient to collect fruits from them: standing on the ground, you can reach every branch. As for varieties, preference should be given to those zoned for a given area and, moreover, grafted onto a short, better dwarf rootstock.

Planting and growing vegetables and fruits, caring for the garden, building and repairing a summer house - all with your own hands.

Trees on trellises - how to decorate a summer house by growing a trellis garden

DIY trellis garden

Tapestry in the garden is used to fence off the site, to close some areas of the cottage from the neighbors, and of course just to decorate our cottage.

Branches of woody plants rarely grow the way we would like them to. Therefore, resourceful gardeners back in the 17th century, having shown ingenuity, began to tie branches fruit trees to the frame of the planks, giving the plants the shape of a trellis. The advantages were obvious - pears grew only in breadth, not up, and it was convenient to harvest. The technology of growing plants on a trellis, used at first exclusively for fruit trees, soon began to be used for ornamental plants like roses.

Trees whose crowns are formed in the form of a cube do not belong to trellis crops, since they are mainly grown without a frame. But visually, they are similar to their trellis relatives and have also been loved by gardeners and cottage owners since time immemorial. They still serve as a living fence that protects houses from cold winds, especially in coastal areas.

Not only in traditional, but also in modern gardens, trees on a trellis or plants shaped in the form of a cube look just great. Thanks to their clear and concise forms, they are ideal for decorating a garden in a simple, regular style. Their symmetry makes a much stronger impression than, for example, trimmed hedge. In addition, trellis cultures do an excellent job of delimiting space in the garden or barriers to protect from prying eyes. It should be mentioned that woody plants with artfully formed crowns look wonderful in the company of trimmed low hedges of boxwood or yew.

A significant advantage of tapestries is that they do not take up much space. The landing area is easy to calculate. For a hornbeam on a trellis, for example, you need a section only half a meter wide. This compactness opens up new design possibilities, especially for small gardens. Another plus of plants on a trellis is that they can plant trees and shrubs on the walls of a house or outbuildings.

Along with linden and hornbeam, it is good to grow other trees on the trellis: liquidambar (Liquidambar), field maple (Acer campestre), beech (Fagus), swamp oak (Quercus palustris) and apple tree (Malus). As for plane trees, green roofs are most often formed from them, placing the lower branches on a horizontal trellis. Their dense green foliage protects well from the sun and gives the place a southern flavor. Mulberry (Morus) and Beanberry (Laburnum) can also be formed on the trellis in the form of a canopy.

Fruit trees on a trellis are best planted near the walls, as they have the ability to accumulate solar heat - especially on the south side of the building. This has a beneficial effect on heat-loving plant species - pears, peaches and grapes. Here, their fruits ripen faster and become especially fragrant and tasty. Apple trees and berry bushes, on the contrary, grow better against the wall on the west side of the house, where there is less sunlight. But the rows of low trellis trees are optimally suited for bordering orchards and vegetable gardens.

Those who wish to grow trellis crops on their own will have to be patient: the branches must be tied up and cut regularly over the years. Therefore, ready-to-plant trellis-shaped trees are much more expensive than ordinary hedges: a lot of time and work has been invested in them. It is not so easy to care for them, but the effort spent is worth it: over the years, trellis plants only become more beautiful and expressive.

Proper pruning of a tree on a trellis

In the first year, the contours of the tree on the trellis can be formed with a brush cutter in the fall. And in order to maintain this form further, in early spring within 2-3 years, it is necessary to pick up a pruner: shorten all the old branches that go beyond the intended contour, leaving short, palm-width, hemp (small drawing). Since numerous overgrowing branches quickly appear on them, the plant will quickly become dense and form a dense "wall" to protect from prying eyes. When all branches that go beyond the contour are removed, you will get the intended geometric shape, while the bush will not thicken. At the end of June or at the end of summer, you can prune again.

Apple and pear trees on trellises

Apple and pear trees on low-growing rootstocks are great for growing on a small trellis against the wall of the house. The frame of the product can be made of wood or metal, stretched wire is also suitable. Trees should be formed on the trellis in stages. Every year, before the appearance of new shoots, the strongest branches of the trees are bent to a horizontal position and tied to a trellis, and unwanted branches are removed. Pears are re-cut in summer: vertical shoots are shortened, leaving a stump with 3-4 leaves.

Garden on the trellis photo:

1-2. Pears on the trellis frame the recreation area. They don't take up much space and share the space perfectly. This tree, after a thorough pruning, produces a lot of new shoots, so try not to overdo it.
The crown of the pear is shaped like a fan and planted against the wall of the house. Here, its fruits ripen faster due to the fact that the wall retains heat.

3.Symmetry in gold tones: yellow-tinted maple leaves look especially bright in sunlight.

Decorative cultivation of trees on a trellis - photo

Flat apple tree on a trellis

Usually trellises serve as a support for vines or plants with long soft stems: grapes, clematis, climbing roses, cucumbers, beans, peas. The more amazing look on the trellises ... fruit trees!

2D TREE

In traditional gardening, formative pruning only corrects the natural shape of the crown. The size of branches, their number, subordination and other parameters are regulated. As a result, the crown becomes more compact, strong, well lit by the sun and ventilated, but the tree retains a rounded or pyramidal shape, continuing to grow in all directions.

But trees grown on trellises are almost flat. They can grow "spread out" along a wall or fence, or form a kind of fence from several trees that are in contact with branches and attached to supports. In any case, special pruning and shaping allow the tree to grow only up and along the line set by the gardener to the sides.

There are a lot of options for trellis molding. The most common of them: various options cordons, fans, palmettes, candelabra. To create such unusual shapes various manipulations are performed over plants from the moment of planting and throughout their life: some of the branches are removed, others are transferred to the desired position with braces, the number of branches of the 2nd and 3rd orders, overgrowing branches is normalized, parts of the tree are attached to the support. In many ways, this is similar to the art of bonsai. As a result, absolutely fantastic constructions from living, fruit-bearing trees arise.

NOT ONLY FOR BEAUTY

Creating a trellis from fruit trees is a labor-intensive, long-term occupation that requires special knowledge. Nevertheless, not only lovers of beauty and exoticism do this, but also agricultural enterprises that produce fruits. What, besides exceptional beauty, are the advantages of the trellis method of growing gardens?

Trellis gardens are an indispensable option for owners of small plots who want to grow many fruit trees of different varieties. Ordinary tall trees occupy a large area, it is difficult to harvest from them. And not always fruits, especially summer varieties that are not subject to storage, are needed in huge quantities. A trellis garden makes it possible to plant many trees in a small space, providing everyone with good conditions. Most often, the trellis is formed along the north-south line so that the plants receive maximum sun in the morning and evening hours and do not overheat at noon.

A wall trellis allows not only to turn a wall of a house or a fence into a work of art, but also to provide additional shelter for heat-loving plants. At the sunny wall, you can successfully grow those crops for which the climate of this region is too harsh. If necessary, a compact trellis is easy to cover for the winter.

fruit trees of different varieties. Ordinary tall trees occupy a large area, it is difficult to harvest from them. And not always fruits, especially summer varieties that are not subject to storage, are needed in huge quantities. A trellis garden makes it possible to plant many trees in a small space, providing good conditions for everyone. Most often, the trellis is formed along the north-south line so that the plants receive maximum sun in the morning and evening hours and do not overheat at noon.

Farmers form low trellis gardens for the convenience of caring for plantings. In addition, constant formative pruning leads to the fact that the trees bear fruit only on young shoots, which means they give large, beautiful, marketable fruits.

FROM WHAT TO DO?

Far from all types of fruit trees are suitable for the formation of trellises. It is important that the variety is not naturally vigorous, does not respond to pruning with the explosive formation of top shoots. Ideally, seedlings are needed grafted onto special M9 dwarf rootstocks. M26, which themselves inhibit the growth of the rootstock. It is preferable to graft varieties of apple and pear trees with the "spur" type of growth on them. These trees are distinguished by a peculiar development of the crown with a large number of short fruit twigs, they lend themselves well to molding, and with a small number of branches they give large yields of fruits. From apple trees, we can mention the varieties Zhelannoe, Welsey, Antonovka ordinary, Holiday. From pears: Chizhovskaya, Kofedralnaya, Smart Efimova, Shinko, varieties of Siberian selection.

It is possible to create trellises from stone fruits, but preference should be given to forms that have a long life of individual trunks. Also, do not create trellises from species that give a large amount of root shoots. According to these parameters, peaches and apricots are preferable to plums and cherry plums.

Trees on trellises - readers share their care experience

Do-it-yourself trellis shaped garden

I have been gardening for over 40 years.

During this time, I used many methods of shaping, settled on the best, in my opinion, option - a trellis, or shaped, garden.

At a distance of 1.5 m from the building, he dug a trench 60 cm deep and 80 cm wide, replacing the clay with fertile soil.

At a distance of 80 cm, he planted fruit seedlings grafted on a dwarf rootstock 62-396.

He built a vine-like trellis 2.5 m high with a distance between the wires of 30 cm.

Growing twigs let out along the row.

It turned out a fruit wall 60 cm wide, the length is optional (I have 15 m, 25 trees were planted, in the 5th year of growth there was a second fruiting, I collected 250 kg of fruit).

What is the advantage of such a formation?

Trees occupy a small area.
There is access to every branch, to every flower.
It is easy to carry out shaping, pruning, normalization of the crop.
It is possible to carry out high-quality chemical processing.
Preservation of fruits: all fruits left after normalization ripen and are stored until removal.

Cultivation of cucumbers on a trellis in open ground. Photo.

Growing cucumbers on a trellis open ground. Photo. How to care for cucumbers on a trellis? How often to water cucumbers? Varieties and hybrids of cucumbers for OG.

Have you ever heard such a phrase: “Look for cucumbers and collect them!”? Is it necessary to look for cucumbers?

Growing cucumbers in spreading, it is sometimes difficult to see the ripening crop. You have to push the leaves, squat, deviate to the sides, changing the point of view, so as not to miss and pick the cucumber in time, which should not be overgrown and yellowed.
At the same time, no matter how we try to be careful, there is a risk of stepping on overgrown lashes, which we successfully do - we trample the garden bed, damage the plants.

To avoid such troubles, cucumbers are grown on trellises - any vertical structures. A bed with a support for cucumbers looks aesthetically pleasing, turning into a hedge decorating the garden, and harvesting is greatly facilitated, since the fruits are clearly visible when harvested.

Cucumber trellis. decorates the garden and facilitates harvesting.

How to care for cucumbers on a trellis.

Caring for cucumbers on a trellis is no different from caring for cucumbers in spread. In the same way, I sow cucumbers in a prepared bed, in the same way I water abundantly and cover the bed with a transparent film. "Planting cucumbers with dry seeds in open ground" - HERE .

Later I mulch the seedlings, change the film to a non-woven material stretched over arcs.

Cucumbers under the trellis 06/12/2012.

I build the support when the danger of frost has passed (June 10), by this time the cucumbers become crowded under the non-woven fabric. We tie cucumber sprouts to a stretched net. You don't often have to tie up. Occasionally it is necessary to direct in the right direction and tie up individual stems. I don't pick cucumbers.

Plants themselves are well fixed and hold their weight, clinging to the net with a mustache.

Watering cucumbers in open ground.

The irrigation process can be automated by running drip irrigation hoses across the bed and connecting them to the machine.

Irrigation automation.

Automated drip irrigation can be purchased online. Available wide choose. My machine is powered by krone. The battery charge is enough for the whole summer season. Watering can be adjusted to any mode. You can select certain days of the week, you can water daily, up to 4 times a day, while choosing the time and duration of watering. In the machine connected to the water supply, a valve opens at the right time, and water flows through the branching into 2 drip irrigation hoses, which are pre-stretched along the rows of plants.

If there is no automated watering, it does not matter! A watering can will come to the rescue. You need to water with warm, sun-warmed water. But it is worth remembering that the main requirement when growing cucumbers is not the temperature of the water, and the absence of long pauses between waterings. Drying out of the soil causes wilting of leaves and bitterness of fruits. True, there are hybrids in which unfavorable growing conditions do not cause bitter fruits.

Varieties and hybrids of cucumbers in open ground.

For growing cucumbers in open ground, any varieties and hybrids of all types of flowering are suitable. Parthenocarpic and self-pollinating hybrids will give a guaranteed harvest in any weather. Bee-pollinated varieties can fail in bad weather, but they always have the correct and beautiful shape, stable, the same size, characteristic of this variety. In this regard, parthenocarpics are not stable, sometimes their fruits acquire an ugly, ugly shape, in which the top of the fruit is normal, and the tip is thin and underdeveloped. But the absence of seeds in fruits is attractive from a culinary point of view.

Read the description carefully, experiment and do not be afraid to plant cucumbers of various varieties and hybrids on the same bed. At the same time, do not forget that it makes no sense to collect seeds from such beds. If you really want your own, varietal seeds, then you need to plant one, a certain variety separately, so that cross-pollination does not happen. "About varieties and hybrids of cucumbers" in detail - HERE

End of cucumber season.

By folk omens, on Avdotya - the last collection of cucumbers. According to the current calendar, this is August 17th.

Cucumbers. Mid August.

In the old days, at this time, cucumbers were harvested for pickling, the tops were removed until it dried out, and put into compost pits. Indeed, by mid-August, a garden of cucumbers in the open field looks unsightly. Many leaves turned yellow and dried up. The effect of cool nights has affected. By this time, stocks for the winter have already been made, and it would be time to start preparing the beds for the next summer season. It is advisable to disassemble the trellis, collect, chop cucumber tops and lay it in compost heaps, in the garden where cucumbers grew, sow green manure.

Although I'm not in a hurry with this work. Even on old, nondescript lashes, cucumbers continue to ripen.

Cucumber season is coming to an end.

It would seem that there is no point in waiting for the harvest. But take a look at the following photos.

Left and right are cucumbers from the same garden.

The pictures were taken at the same time, August 27th. Why such a sharp difference? Cucumber from the left edge and do not want to pick. And the right cucumber is quite edible.

The thing is, they are different varieties.

Some varieties of cucumbers begin fruiting earlier, others a little later, some varieties are very productive, others may be less productive, but they are resistant to diseases, and therefore successfully continue to grow, at a time when their neighbors have faded a long time ago.

Cucumbers end of August.

Of course, a large harvest can no longer be harvested, and the quality of the harvest is better, but picking a dozen fruits to turn them into lightly salted, crispy cucumbers, or using them for salads, even in mid-September, is still possible.

There is still growth potential. Grow cucumbers!

Only a month later, on September 27, I completed the cucumber season in my garden. Until next cucumber year!

"Do-it-yourself trellis for cucumbers" - HERE

Trees on trellis

If the site is small and it is impossible to arrange a garden of fruit trees on it, then you can resort to the method of growing trees on a trellis. And you won’t need much space, and from the aesthetic side it will be original and spectacular.

Growing trees on a trellis: the history and essence of the method

This technology is not new, the trellis method for fruit trees began to be applied several centuries ago in Europe, mainly in France and Switzerland, from where it spread to other countries.

The essence of growing on trellises is that the tree is located in one plane, it is previously shaped in a special way, after which it is attached to a support. Today, the trellis method is used to grow not only fruit trees, but also berry bushes, grapes, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc.

For growing on trellises, species of trees and shrubs are selected, characterized by slow growth.

We advise you to clarify before purchasing in the nursery on the account of which particular stock the manufacturer used. In nurseries, the practice of grafting varietal trees (shrubs) onto the root system of species crops, and sometimes to a completely different crop, is common.

Often an apricot is grafted onto a plum, and grafting a pear onto a quince is also common.

Such a grafting is done in order to limit the size of the root system and at the same time improve precocity. Depending on the rootstock, apple trees of the same variety can grow one - 1.5 m in height, the other - 9 m.

Naturally, it is much easier to harvest from a small apple tree. Therefore, the trellis method is used to grow trees with a stock from a dwarf or semi-dwarf culture. We recommend that you read the material about the dwarf garden in the country.

Amazing garden: less area, more harvest!

Benefits of growing trees on a trellis

The trellis method has several significant advantages, which, in fact, make it attractive to many gardeners. Let's start with an aesthetic moment - the trees on the trellises can be shaped into an oval, a cube or even a fan, which undoubtedly makes the garden unusual.

Having arranged the trellis in the right places, you can divide your garden into several zones, which will be delimited by trees on the trellis.

You can also use them as a fence, a fence that ensures the privacy of your site.

For owners of small plots, the trellis method makes it possible to grow trees in the garden for which there would not be enough space during normal planting. And so the place will require a minimum, and it will not be difficult to calculate it.

Often, plants on a trellis are used as a means of landscaping the walls of a house and utility rooms. Lindens on a trellis with an oval or cube-shaped crown perfectly protect the house from gusts of wind and rain.

Such breeds as marsh oak, liquidambar, field maple, sycamore grow well on a horizontal trellis. These trees have a dense crown that gives excellent shade, so they can be used to decorate a recreation area. A green canopy in the garden can be arranged from a bean or mulberry on a trellis.

How to install supports for fruit trees on trellises

Growing trees using a trellis method involves the use of specially installed supports, existing walls or a fence. To do this, it is recommended to choose a garden area that is well lit by the sun and not blown by cold winds. The basis of the trellis is a massive reliable construction, made up of poles and frames, a flat screen made of slats or wire is fixed on it. The trunk of the tree is attached to the pole, and the branches are distributed along the rails lying in the same plane. Thus, we kind of translate the tree from three-dimensional space into two-dimensional.

Seedlings intended for the trellis method are planted in the usual way, like other fruit trees, the only thing is that the gap between them is left much smaller. Make sure you have other fruit crops growing nearby, as this is essential for cross-pollination.

Trimming trees on trellises

Regular pruning is a must proper care behind the trees on the trellises. By pruning, the tree is given a compact appearance and the desired shape. A sharp pruner is used for pruning, and all cuts are made at an angle. Details about the tools will tell the material about the tools for trimming trees and shrubs.

Young trees are recommended to be cut once a year, while it is still cold and the vegetation process has not begun, for example, in early spring. From this general rule plum and cherry are knocked out, which are desirable to cut in late spring, summer or early autumn.

When carrying out spring pruning, the tree is given its chosen shape for it, the length of the trunk and branches is set.

A tree that has reached fruiting age is pruned 2 times a year, additional pruning is carried out in the summer when the fruits ripen. Summer pruning rids the tree of excess foliage, allowing more nutrients on the process of fruit formation and get a rich harvest.

New branches in the summer should be cut so that 1 cm remains after the growth node.

Crops that produce large fruits (apples, peaches, plums) should be thinned out, first of all, by removing weak and unhealthy-looking fruits. As a result, the remaining fruits will develop better, and although you will get fewer ripened fruits, they will be more High Quality. You can remove the fruits with a secateurs or manually, making a rotational movement.

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Growing cucumbers on a trellis in open ground

In greenhouses, cucumbers, tomatoes, melons, eggplants, watermelons are almost always grown on a trellis: two wires are stretched along the beds, on which twine is attached for each planted plant. As the plant grows, it is formed and, as it were, twisted around the twine, if necessary, pinching the side shoots, and subsequently the growth point of the main stem.

In the open field, cucumbers are usually grown on open ridges in spreading. This planting technology is most often used on large plantations with a density of 25-45 thousand plants per hectare. With this method of cultivation, the side stems of cucumbers are evenly distributed on the ground and do not intertwine, which has a beneficial effect on the formation of flowers, fruit set, and, of course, on crop yields.

The negative aspects of this method are clearly seen during the harvesting period - fruiting stems and lashes are cut off by machines and workers, which significantly reduces the yield and yield. That is why, in parallel with the traditional technology, vegetable farms in Belarus have recently begun to widely use growing cucumbers on a trellis in the open field.

Advantages of the vertical method for weaving plants using trellis mesh:

losses from decay of fruits lying on the ground are significantly reduced;

feeding, weeding and protective treatment plants;

plants receive more air and light, which has a positive effect on productivity;

this method greatly simplifies the harvesting process - from a high garden, the fruits are better visible;

the absence of dust and dirt in the beds gives the vegetables a better presentation;

at least twice the efficiency of using land of the same area;

plantings are well blown, and the difference in daily temperatures becomes less noticeable, which contributes to the formation of less moisture, which in turn leads to a lower likelihood of infection with downy mildew.

With a trellis culture of a ground cucumber, plants should be planted in the center of the ridge in one line (line). The distance between adjacent rows should be 1–1.5 meters, between plants in a row - 15–20 cm (for weakly branching hybrids) and 25–30 cm (for well-branched ones). In the center of the ridge, pillars up to 2 meters high are dug in, at a distance of 4–5 meters from each other.

Three horizontal rows of wire are stretched between the posts (at a height of 10–15 cm, 100–110 and, respectively, 180–200 cm from ground level), to which a grid with a cell size of at least 15–20 cm is attached. Such a grid is easy to find in any specialized store. Sometimes to avoid sagging top row, the upper wire is replaced with a wooden rail, making the whole structure more stable.

In order to accelerate the beginning of fruit ripening in the open field, it is best to use the seedling method or, in the case of direct sowing of seeds in the ground, grow young plants first under shelters. Directly under the trellis, a film arc frame is installed, which is removed in the phase of the appearance of 5–6 true leaves and whiskers. Alternatively, the entire trellis structure can be covered with non-woven material.

In the process of plant formation in 3–5 lower nodes at the main stem, all ovaries and side shoots are removed. All ovaries are left above, and lateral shoots are pinched: in plants up to 50 cm - by 1-2 leaves, in higher specimens - by 2-4 leaves.

The upper part of the whip, as soon as it grows to the top wire or rail, is let along this wire (all plants in one direction) or, carefully wrapping it around the top wire a couple of times (carefully - the stem is very fragile and can break!), Throw it to the other side grids.

In the conditions of Belarus at the end of summer, due to the August night cooling, the growth of the stem when growing cucumbers in open ground ends much earlier than in film greenhouses. For this reason, the tops of the main lashes, as is customary, are not pinched. On cold nights, it is advisable to cover the trellis with non-woven material.

Cultures on trellises - for a small garden.

Fruit trees and bushes can be turned into works of art with the help of a trellis.

A trellis is a lattice wire or wooden support that serves as a vertical support for plants and shapes their appearance. There are free-standing and wall trellises. Many plants lend themselves to formation with free and strictly symmetrical trellises, providing sufficient illumination of all shoots. U-shapes are very popular. When forming a trellis culture, all lateral shoots are removed from the plant, with the exception of the two main branches, which are first given a horizontal position and then allowed to rise vertically.

Palmette Verrier is one of the decorative forms of the crown of a tree, which is achieved by pairwise breeding of lateral branches to the right and left of the trunk. At the first stage, the branches are formed in a horizontal position, then in a vertical position.

A fan-shaped trellis can have a strictly geometric and free form. Lateral branches are formed in the form of the letter V. Branches, fan-shaped extending from the trunk, are allowed along horizontally stretched rows of wire.

Tapestry - perfect solution for a small garden, allowing you to grow fruit crops in a small area. It is used as a dividing wall, the function of which in large gardens is performed by a hedge. The advantage of the trellis is that the trees growing near the walls of the house begin to bear fruit earlier than their counterparts growing in traditional places. They take less space, and in winter they are reliably protected from the cold, since the wall gives them the heat accumulated on sunny days.

The trellis formation of trees, which requires special pruning of branches, lasts for many years. After pruning the main shoot, the side branches are bred along horizontal rows of wire or planks of a wooden support - this is how the base of the tree skeleton is formed. Fruiting shoots appear annually on it, which need regular pruning. Young trees are shortened in July or August. Trellis plants in the presence of 4-5 lateral branches usually reach a height of 2 meters.

An optimal microclimate for the development of heat-loving plants is formed near the walls: during the day, the wall absorbs heat and slowly cools down at night. Necessary condition- maintaining a distance of 5-15 cm between the wall and the trellis. Fruits on plants planted near the southern wall ripen ahead of time.

How to make a trellis formation of an apple tree? To do this, we need an apple tree, a shovel, a pruner, 2 stable posts 2 meters high, wire and a bast.

Choose a tree with a healthy trunk and flexible branches. The structure of the branches should allow the plant to be grown on trellises. We plant a tree at a distance of 30 cm from the trellis, slightly at an angle. Tamp the soil tightly around the seedling and water abundantly. We drive posts at a distance of 2 meters from the tree. Between them at different heights we stretch three wire rows. We fix the wire. We shorten the main shoot. We tie a pair of oppositely growing branches with a bast to a wire, remove the rest of the shoots.

When caring for an apple tree on a trellis, the following must be observed: at the end of the winter of the first year, using a pruner, we shorten the trunk and horizontal branches by 5-10 cm. In summer, horizontal branches are tied to a wire on a trellis, all vertical shoots are removed. We regularly remove shoots that appear on the trunk, as well as adventitious buds and side shoots.

Here are some popular trellis plants:

- pear - suitable for a trellis of any shape, branched trees are suitable for forming on a wall trellis, dwarfs are selected for a free-standing trellis.

- apple tree - suitable for trellises of any shape - both wall-mounted and free-standing. For a free-standing trellis, dwarf and undersized rootstocks are selected.

- apricot - suitable for wall trellis, since the walls protect from frost, absorb and give off heat, it is desirable to form the crown in the form of a fan.

- peach - suitable for a wall trellis, near a wall that absorbs and gives off heat, fruits ripen faster, it is desirable to form a crown in the form of a fan.

- pyracantha - suitable for wall trellis, blooms from June, beautiful berries of red or orange color, do not injure yourself with sharp spikes during pruning.

- Japanese quince - suitable for wall trellis, easy-to-form large shrub, blooms from April, pruning is carried out after flowering.

- cultivated grapes - perfect for wall trellis, shoots spread horizontally along the entire height of the plant, large grapes ripen late.

Spring is the time to prune your plants. We shorten the main shoot so that it rises 5 cm above the lower wire support of the trellis. two renewal buds should remain under the wire - one on the right and one on the left side. In the summer we tie side shoots to the wire trellis. From late July to early August, vertical annual growths are removed to maintain the shape of the plant. Harvest fruits as they ripen. The main pruning of trees formed on trellises is carried out at the end of winter. Before starting work, you should determine which branches to leave as the main and side shoots, and which are to be removed.

Trellis plants take up little space, but give a larger yield. Good luck to you.

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Tapestry in the garden is used to fence off the site, to close some areas of the cottage from the neighbors, and of course just to decorate our cottage.

Branches of woody plants rarely grow the way we would like them to. Therefore, as early as the 17th century, resourceful gardeners, having shown their ingenuity, began to tie the branches of fruit trees to a frame of planks, giving the plants the shape of a trellis. The advantages were obvious - pears grew only in breadth, not up, and it was convenient to harvest. The technology of growing plants on a trellis, used at first exclusively for fruit trees, soon began to be used for ornamental plants, such as roses.

Not only in traditional, but also in modern gardens, trees on a trellis or plants shaped in the form of a cube look just great. Thanks to their clear and concise forms, they are ideal for decorating a garden in a simple, regular style. Their symmetry makes a much stronger impression than, for example, trimmed hedges. In addition, trellis cultures do an excellent job of delimiting space in the garden or barriers to protect from prying eyes. It should be mentioned that woody plants with artfully formed crowns look wonderful in the company of trimmed low hedges of boxwood or yew.

Proper pruning of a tree on a trellis

In the first year, the contours of the tree on the trellis can be formed with a brush cutter in the fall. And in order to maintain this shape further, in early spring for 2-3 years it is necessary to pick up a pruner: shorten all the old branches that go beyond the intended contour, leaving short, palm-width, stumps (small drawing). Since numerous overgrowing branches quickly appear on them, the plant will quickly become dense and form a dense "wall" to protect from prying eyes. When all branches that go beyond the contour are removed, you will get the intended geometric shape, while the bush will not thicken. At the end of June or at the end of summer, you can prune again.

Apple and pear trees on trellises

Garden on the trellis photo:

3.Symmetry in gold tones: yellow-tinted maple leaves look especially bright in sunlight.

Decorative cultivation of trees on a trellis - photo

Flat apple tree on a trellis

Usually trellises serve as a support for vines or plants with long soft stems: grapes, clematis, climbing roses, cucumbers, beans, peas. The more amazing look on the trellises ... fruit trees!

2D TREE

There are a lot of options for trellis molding. The most common of them: various options for cordons, fans, palmettes, candelabra. To create such unusual forms, plants are subjected to various manipulations from the moment of planting and throughout their lives: some of the branches are removed, others are transferred to the desired position with braces, the number of branches of the 2nd and 3rd orders, overgrowing branches is normalized, parts of the tree are attached to the support . In many ways, this is similar to the art of bonsai. As a result, absolutely fantastic constructions from living, fruit-bearing trees arise.

NOT ONLY FOR BEAUTY

Trellis gardens are an indispensable option for owners of small plots who want to grow many fruit trees of different varieties. Ordinary tall trees occupy a large area, it is difficult to harvest from them. And not always fruits, especially summer varieties that are not subject to storage, are needed in huge quantities. A trellis garden makes it possible to plant many trees in a small space, providing good conditions for everyone. Most often, the trellis is formed along the north-south line so that the plants receive maximum sun in the morning and evening hours and do not overheat at noon.

FROM WHAT TO DO?

Growing fruit trees on trellises helps to give the garden an interesting, futuristic look. Plus, it helps save space. Despite the apparent complexity of the process, ennobling your garden in this way is very easy. Especially if you know some secrets and follow the instructions for creating tapestries.

If there is not enough space in the garden, but the soul craves fruit, then growing trees on a trellis along the walls is an ideal solution. Thanks to this, the house will be buried in flowers during the flowering period and in the sweet smell of ripe fruits during the harvest period. In addition, this is a very interesting solution from a design point of view, since the tree can be given any desired shape.

Apple tree on a trellis

In addition to beauty, growing apple trees on a trellis has undoubted benefits - they become more fruitful.

scheme of planting an apple tree on a trellis

The trellis itself is a rigid frame made of wooden or iron poles and a frame on which slats or wire cloth are attached. Thanks to him, the direction of growth of the branches of the future tree will be chosen in the future. Planting an apple tree on a trellis is almost one to one similar to planting an ordinary apple tree.

The planting scheme depends on:

Harvest abundance
Increasing its quality
Abundance of food
Sufficient light and heat
Immunity Boost
The absence of fungus throughout the trunk
Prevention of an increase in the population of pests and any diseases

The planting pattern helps determine the minimum distance that should be set aside between future trees. It is created based on the characteristics of the variety of the selected seedling, the ability of the land to supply it with water, the presence of necessary nutrition for the future tree and other soil characteristics.

There are two types of apple planting schemes: average and individual. The first scheme includes a list of planting requirements without taking into account the composition of the soil, the special characteristics of the site, variety, and so on. It takes into account only the climate in the place where the seedling is destined to "live", and the width of its branches.

For planting on a trellis, low varieties of apple trees are taken, and sometimes even “dwarfs”. This means that the landing requirements will be formed based on their largest dimensions, taking into account trimming. It is 4 meters, which will separate one row of trellises from another. The trees themselves should be at least 2.5 meters apart from each other.
The individual planting scheme takes into account what is omitted in the average, including the variety of apple trees.

Semi-dwarf varieties of columnar apple trees are preferred to be planted in such a way that they are located 1.2 meters from one another. For dwarf varieties, this space can be reduced to sixty cm.
For such “little ones” as the varieties Melba, Lobo, Spartan and Welsey, the space between the trees can be four meters. And from them to their neighbors in the garden - one meter less.

If the seedling was taken at random or the variety of the apple tree is unknown, then the space between the trees should be taken based on the width of the crown. In tapestry beauties, this variable can be counted from the upper branches, which are assigned this role. It should be increased a couple of times and the resulting figure can be considered the minimum distance between the trees.

Proper arrangement of young trees will contribute not only to the pleasing design of the garden. Thanks to the right scheme, you can increase the life of the tree, and organize a place in the garden according to the owner's idea.

pruning apple tree on trellis

The easiest way to prune the shoots of an apple tree is when forming a hedge. At the same time, the strongest shoots are limited in growth so that they rush in two directions. To achieve this, the side branches are attached at an angle of ninety degrees to the trunk.

The lower side sprouts are wound in a horizontal position to the wire frame of the trellis. After that, the upper sprout is shortened above the bud so that the cut is 50 cm higher than the shoots.
The following year, the lateral processes are truncated along with the competitive shoot, the upper sprout is cut again according to the same principle. The resulting sprouts are directed diagonally so that they grow in a slightly elevated position. This will help them keep up with the growth rate of the top shoot.

At the end of summer, a green hedge with spreading branches will be ready. Gardeners are not in a hurry, they carefully observe the formation of buds on the tops of the branches of the apple tree, periodically tying them up in an elevated position.

After pruning, a strong shoot hatches from the topmost sprout of the "trunk" of the future apple tree. The "trunk" also sprouts from the lateral buds. The two strongest of them should be fixed at an angle of 90 degrees to the trellis structure. This will create a second row of branches and determine the direction in which the future crown will grow.

After winter, the apical sprout is truncated again. This gives impetus to the release of new buds on the sides, from which the third row of branches will subsequently be formed. In addition, all sprouts rushing upwards at the base are eliminated.

Raised sprouts from the side branches in the last week of August are laid horizontally on a trellis. These sprouts, along with the rest, will later turn into fruit branches.

The top rows of branches should be no longer than those below. The growth of fruiting plants on a trellis reaches a maximum of 2 or 2.5 meters. A tiny garden will give the impression of being dense and lush if the trees with a weakly growing rootstock are no more than 1.8 or 2 m in height. When their uppermost branch reaches this mark, it must also be fixed at a right angle to the wire frame of the trellis. All sprouts that have begun to grow upwards from the bent "trunk" must be truncated to the base.

shaping an apple tree on a trellis master class

To give the apple tree shape, you must first select a sprout for planting. One-year-old “kids” are most suitable, but if there are none, then two-year-olds and three-year-olds also actively take root. It is better to take a seedling stock that is undersized, if not dwarf, and certainly clonal. You can find out by the lobe on the stock itself.

It is better to take the following scheme: 3 meters from sprout to sprout and 2.5 to the next row. This scheme takes into account both the limited space allocated for trees and the width of the bottom row of their branches.

To give the tree the desired shape, you should:

To further correct the shape, it is required to eliminate all growth buds, with the exception of one, and at the same time not to touch the flower buds. The tree does not need a "body kit" in the form of an extra mass of twigs
.
When the seedling reaches the desired “growth”, the upper shoot is also bent at a right angle and attached to the trellis canvas. The distance between the side branches should be at least 50 cm. Everything that interferes with the comfortable growth of the branches is truncated at the bud or sprout stage.

Trees formed in this way bear fruit when they reach the age of two. Their leaves and fruits are larger, more textured, with a more saturated color. With a successful combination of circumstances, up to a kilogram of apples can be collected from each row of branches.

Trellis for apple tree:

The trellis provides a chance not only to competently equip a very cramped space of a small garden, but also to decorate the wall of the house with an overgrown tree.

wall method of growing apple trees on a trellis

To form a trellis apple tree near the wall, you need to choose the wall of the house, which is most often illuminated by the sun. Suitable south or southeast side. The southwest may also be suitable for trellis, but the west or east are already less favorable for comfortable tree growth.

Before planting, a frame is built. Between it and the wall, it is necessary to make an indent with a width of at least eighty or about a hundred cm. This is important to facilitate breathing for the tree. In addition, access from the rear side will facilitate the care of the plant.
Many beginners mistakenly mount wire mesh or planks directly onto the wall. In addition to the seedling, it harms the wall of the house due to the accumulation of moisture on the leaves. It is absorbed into the masonry of the wall, softening and destroying it.
The very basis of the trellis is made of lightweight materials - a wooden or iron frame with zinc wire material. The wire is most often covered with electrical tape to avoid corrosive effects on the plant.
The all-wood trellis decorates the wall of the house on its own. To save the tree from rotting and drying out, it is painted. The color for painting is neutral - green, brown, white. This will allow the trellis to "merge" with the wall or not be evident from behind the tree. When creating a trellis canvas, the gap between the planks should not exceed thirty centimeters.
Plants do not like ice crust and excessive moisture, although it inevitably arises from water flowing from the roof. That is why, before installing the trellis, water should be drained from the roof using cornices and pipes.
The dimensions of the recesses for planting are meter in all respects. Occasionally they are replaced by trenches, whose width is more than eighty centimeters. Trees absorb and accumulate water, so it is necessary to waterproof the part of the building where the tapestries are planned to be placed.
Gravel or crushed stone is poured into the recesses to create a drainage layer. After planting, the plants are covered with fertile soil. After analyzing the land on the site, sand with clay and minerals is added to it. In addition, you can add a little organic matter for nourishment.
The fruiting plants near the walls begin to change, giving them a shape when the height of their seedling becomes more than 50 or 60 cm. This protects the building from destruction due to untimely sprouts or an overgrown root system. If this cannot be avoided and sprouts appear, they are truncated entirely.
Further, it is customary to give the tree the shape of the selected palmette. This is an ornament that is recreated with the help of branches. It has two types: free and ideal form palmette. The second form is known for its longevity, but its attractiveness suffers due to this. With her, the branches are arranged near the walls so that the masonry is not visible at all. In the course of growth, green sprouts frame doors and windows. Weakened sprouts are truncated, and strong and fruitful ones are arranged so that they all have enough room for growth.
The symmetrical palmette is much more decorative, with it the branches are thirty cm apart from each other. If for some reason there are not enough buds on the trunk to form a new row, then they are grafted.
To accelerate the appearance of fruits on a tree, fruit sprouts are also grafted onto it. During the vegetative period, the apple tree needs several pinching in order for the "shoulder" of the tree to form in time.

Other care is the same as for any other fruit in the garden. The combination of apple trees of several varieties will allow not only to give the crowns a variety of shapes, but also to decorate the wall of the house with fruits of different sizes and colors.

trellis in the apple garden

The name "trellis" originated at the turn of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Then artificial frames were used to give shape to fruit trees as an element of living ornament, which decorated palaces and ordinary houses. Soon, gardeners noticed that the fruits on the trellis are more numerous, voluminous and intensely colored. This led to the popularization of the trellis in conventional gardening.

Palmette or ornaments for garden plot much more than for the home.

fan ornament the simplest palmette in existence. It is used to give an ornament to dwarf, as well as undersized varieties of apples and pears. The pattern is represented by a group of six to eight skeletal twigs spread out on a trellis canvas in the form of a fan. They are formed for a maximum of three years, giving them a different direction - from an almost right angle of growth of branches to a sprout growing strictly upwards.
In the first year, the upper shoot is cut off, and the sprouts, from which the first row of branches will later form, are laid at a height of 40 cm above the ground. The rest is not truncated, only fixed on the trellis. In the presence of "bald spots" in a fan shape, they are filled with lateral processes. To avoid the dominance of the sprout in the center, it is either truncated or bent along the growth of the remaining branches on the trellis.
Ornament in the shape of a candelabra. When an annual sprout is planted, it is crowned 0.3 meters above the ground. Two strong shoots are given complete freedom, but at the same time they truncate the sprout in the center. The next year, the side branches are fixed at a right angle, and the sprout in the center is truncated again. Sprouts at the ends of the first row of branches are directed upwards and truncated at least 0.2 meters. This gives impetus to the formation of new shoots. A year later, on the first row of branches, a second pair of shoots directed upwards is formed. The distance between the "candles" will not exceed 0.5 meters. "Candles" are cut as they grow, this contributes to giving the entire candelabra splendor due to lateral sprouts. When the upper sprout reaches its maximum length, the “candles” close to it must be shortened more than the others. It is not necessary to get by with four "candles" on a green candelabra, there can be six or eight of them.
Ruzin ornament essentially a kind of green "fan". Suitable for low apple trees with the formation of fruits on the ringlet. In this type of tree shaping, the use of a pruner is dispensed with. To do this, in two-year-old sprouts, the side branches are tied to the trunk, bending them into arcs. The sprout in the center is also bent in an arc, and the shoot released by it is bent in the opposite direction. This continues until the growth of the tree reaches two meters. If there are several such trees, their branches can be tied together. Everything else is mercilessly truncated so that between the young branches there is at least 0.5 meters. A frame made of foreign materials is almost not needed.
Ornament with branches located at an angle of 90 degrees. This ornament is also suitable for apple trees, whose fruits ripen on kolchatka. At the same time, the tree has four or more rows of branches, and each consists of a pair of branches. When planting, seedlings are arranged in the ground at a distance of up to 4 m from one another. The spacing between rows depends on the variety, although less than 0.4 meters does not happen. The shape of the tree is given very slowly - they do not grab the upper tiers until those below are laid.
All shaping comes down to the truncation of the trunk. Lateral branches are tilted so that they fill the space between the rows.
Marchand ornament. This ornament is in the form of a banner. To give the tree the shape of a shaft, the sprouts are planted at a distance of one and a half meters at sharp angles and are attached to the trellis frame with a rope. It is created by four of their rows of thin wires located at a distance of 0.4 -0.5 meters. The shape of the "panel" of the banner is created from nine branches, directing them at an angle of 90 degrees. All other branches are simply tied to the trellis canvas, not particularly caring about their growth.
Ornament of Delbar. Suitable for dwarf apple varieties. Depending on the growth rate, seedlings are "settled" at intervals of 1.5 meters and up to 4 meters. Then the same-year-olds are crowned as soon as they reach forty cm. A pair of strong shoots appear at this place. The angle of their inclination on the trellis depends on how far away the other apple tree is. Equidistant sprouts are taken from each branch and fixed in such a way that they grow in the direction opposite to the base. At the point of contact they are spliced. They are also spliced together at the intersection with the branches of neighboring apple trees. The rest of the growth is directed at a right angle. The height of the hedge can not be more than two meters.
Boucher-Thoma ornament. To create this very interesting wall from an aesthetic point of view, one-year-old sprouts are required. When planting, they are separated by a distance of one and a half meters and bent to the ground at an acute angle. All even "kids" should be tilted to the right, odd - to the left. The place where the rootstock is cut should be at the bottom to stimulate the uniform emergence of sprouts. Of those that appeared on the lower stem half, the strongest are chosen. The rest are eliminated so that there is 50 cm between the remaining sprouts. The selected sprouts are tilted in the direction opposite to the growth of the trunk. On the lower branches, a pair of shoots is brought out, directing them parallel to the trunk. This creates a "grid" of shoots. Crowns and adjoining branches of adjacent trees can be tied together to form a living wall. This form almost does not need truncation and leads to increased fruiting the very next year after planting. All sprouts that thicken the crown and deprive the neighbors of the sun are eliminated. Truncation of the main green mass is necessary only for rejuvenation.

Apricot on a trellis

In addition to apple trees, many fruit-bearing trees, including apricots, can be shaped. It is suitable for home wall decoration. In addition to creating a visual effect of a "living wall", such a neighborhood contributes to the rapid growth of the tree. The wall gives off heat and protects it from frost. Gardeners are advised to form an apricot tree in the form of a fan.

pruning apricot on a trellis

The apricot is truncated in the same year that the planting took place. Two branches growing upwards are left as a future crown. The side branches are bent, they can be tied to the lower wires of the trellis or to the trunk itself. It is important to do without pruning, otherwise the tree will weaken.

Apricot cannot get rid of unnecessary ovaries and runs the risk of losing branches. Those can break under the weight of ripe fruits. This is what makes it dependent on all types of cropping.
The elimination of shoots for shaping is necessary to thin out the density of the green mass of the tree so that the light falls evenly on all branches. A tree as fruitful as the apricot ages quickly and often needs rejuvenation. And, of course, the elimination of weak or frozen sprouts.

In early April, all diseased and weakened shoots are truncated to give the seedling time to gather strength and let them grow with the creation of fruits. Only after that they resort to truncation of the remaining shoots in order to give the shape of a fan to the top of the tree.

If the apricot variety is fast-growing, then all sprouts can be safely truncated by one half of their growth, if not, by a third. There should be no side shoots on the main branches.

Apricot sometimes likes to throw an unpleasant surprise by growing fruits on the upper and lateral processes. It is in order to avoid this that the lateral shoots are removed along with the sick and crooked growing ones.
Pruning in the fall is needed to evenly distribute the fruit and deciduous branches over the tree. If you are greedy and skip this pruning, then there will be more fruits, but they will be smaller and of lower quality.

A third of all fruit shoots are removed from a two-year-old sprout so that the tree does not exhaust its strength. All that remains is truncated to 0.5 meters. On the main branches that have thrown out the seventh pair of leaves, you can dive.

Experienced gardeners usually barely touch the branches of the crown. To give it a shape, it is enough to remove crookedly growing branches.
Rejuvenating cutting of shoots occurs every three years, not earlier. All green shoots are truncated by 30 cm. After two weeks, when the branches are covered with new green sprouts, it is recommended to remove them and keep the top three strongest. Subsequently, the second row of the main frame of the tree will be formed of them.
The only time of the year in which apricot pruning is not carried out is winter.

shaping an apricot on a trellis

To give the shape of the future tree, the sprouts are at least halfway on the sides and attached diagonally to the trellis. The "trunk" is cut 25 cm higher than the top of the last branch. In the fourth week of May, all crookedly growing new shoots are truncated, while others are pinched after the third pair of leaves. The branches on the sides are fixed at a right angle and the tree is left to hibernate.

The following year, all newly formed branches are eliminated except for the two strongest ones. They are attached to the trellis canvas and truncated, making them smaller than the branches of the previous row. Their lateral processes are also shortened. The closer the sprout is to the end of the branch, the shorter it should be. There should be 40 cm distance between rows of branches.

The topmost sprout is truncated seventy centimeters above the last branch, the lowest branches are pruned. The shoots that appear on them growing up are eliminated, the rest are cut off by half. When they reach six cm in height, they are pinched.

The last upper branch, which is assigned the role of a fan-shaped crown, is formed only by the fifth year of the tree's life. For an abundance of fruits and restraint of growth, a conductor is removed on it. All subsequent care consists in giving the “fan” volume by thickening the side shoots. On the lowest row of branches, sprouts are laid from the overlying row, on the second - from the third. All other shoots are truncated.

In the future, it is no longer necessary to resort to strong shortening, as this will affect the quality of the fruit. Only unnecessary, weakened and broken shoots need to be eliminated.

Pear on a trellis

Pear wood is great for any kind of trellis. Varieties of trees with wide branches are more suitable for decorating the walls of houses, and their dwarf sisters are more suitable for garden formations.

pruning and shaping a pear on a trellis

The pear is an extremely heat-loving tree, so it is literally created for a house trellis. In addition, low trees can perfectly protect the seating area in the garden.

When forming, the main task should be to create a strong "skeleton" of the tree. It depends on whether the pear can survive the future abundance of fruits or break under their weight. If you strongly thin out its sprouts, the pear throws out a lot of new buds.

Since the tree needs strength for all this, you will have to resort to using pruners the least. The upper branches of the tree are arranged in the shape of a fan so that the pear and its neighbors have enough light.

Immediately after planting, the pear seedlings truncate all the extra shoots, and the remaining ones are attached to the trellis canvas at an acute angle. In the first year, the tree grows so slowly that it is only necessary to increase the angle of growth of the lower row of branches.

A pear in the first five years is shortened by only one fifth of the entire shoot. This brings the ripening of the first fruits closer. Pear branches need more bending at right angles to the trunk, otherwise they begin to grow upwards and form the first fruits much later.

At the end of spring, new branches are only attached to the trellis frame, and from the second week of July they are already thoroughly bent using twine. If the gardener is late with spring work, then young shoots growing upwards can be removed.

The first row of branches is formed from two strong shoots growing at least sixty centimeters from the ground. In the spring, young shoots that grow incorrectly are truncated. The uppermost sprout is shortened by forty cm above the last pair of branches.

Three-year-old branches have a mass of new sprouts. If they have not reached thirty centimeters, they can not be touched, they will bear fruit. But if they become higher than thirty cm, then they are cut off, leaving only a couple of eyes at the base. It is better to break out the rest of the green shoots.

If you truncate young branches correctly, the top of the tree will grow to the sides. It can be fan-shaped by controlling the direction of development.

Peach on a trellis

Peach feels best on the sunny side of the house, against the wall. Thanks to the exchange of heat with the wall, its fruits ripen faster. The upper branches of the peach are best placed in the form of a fan.

peach pruning on a trellis

The peach tree has extremely fast exchange substances. Moreover, most of the forces of the tree are spent on the formation of branches growing vertically upwards. That is why cutting off excess shoots will rejuvenate it and allow you to redirect forces to create fruits.

From mid-March to mid-April, all bifurcations on the branches are shortened. Peach loves to throw sprouts on the sides. Those eventually break down and collect frost, so you need to get rid of them. You need to truncate young sprouts with a sharply ground blade. If after that there is a “wound” more than a centimeter in diameter, it must be treated.

The undoubted advantage of pruning at this time is that the swollen buds show how many fruits will be on the branches. Usually a couple of the most fruitful branches are not touched, and the remaining ones are eliminated. During spring pruning, all processes are truncated by a third.

The main part of the work on the cutting of the green mass of the tree and shaping it takes place in the summer months.

At that time:

Weakened and fruitless sprouts are eliminated
All shoots that thicken the crown thin out
Branches with many ovaries are slightly truncated. This allows them to get stronger and not break under the weight of future fruits.

You can cut through new shoots in June. In autumn, peach is pruned for wintering. Then they get rid of diseased or weakened shoots, all the remaining ones are cut off to two buds. With these works it is necessary to be in time before the fifteenth of October.

To rejuvenate the plant, all four-year-old sprouts are broken out.

shaping a peach on a trellis

The peach branches are angled upwards at a 45-degree angle and aren't very flexible, so it's easiest to fan the peach.

After planting, all shoots, except for four, are removed from the seedling. Of these, both rows of branches and the crown of the future tree will be formed in the future. It is better to cut and eliminate all young shoots in the spring.

Four shoots preserved on the seedling are attached to the trellis canvas at an acute angle. When the growth of the seedling reaches almost 50 cm, the additional six sprouts are fan-shaped and fixed at an angle to the trunk. The topmost shoot, if it has almost reached thirty cm, is truncated along with the remaining unnecessary green mass.

The sprouts are cut into three or four buds. In the next two years, two pairs of strong lateral shoots are formed on the main branches. They are cut a little so that they sprout and can add volume to the tree. The top sprouts are thinned out so that they grow at the same distance. They require at least three. After pinching, they will give six branches, from which you can form the top of the green "fan".

Tree trellis scheme

For a fruit tree, simplified trellis schemes are needed. The emphasis should be on a discreet appearance, long service life and material of manufacture. Depending on the purpose of use, the canvas of the trellis can be both wooden and iron.

DIY wood trellises

There are three types of trellis suitable for fruit trees. Other types of ornaments are too unreliable and will not support the weight of a growing tree.

Wooden tapestries
Iron
WPC tapestries

All types have their pros and cons. A tree, even impregnated with a special composition, is relatively short-lived. Iron rusts, and WPC has few colors and is not able to impress with a variety of shapes.

To make a wooden trellis you need:

Hammer
self-tapping screw
Screwdriver
Nails or, if you like, screws
Hacksaw for woodcarving
Antiseptic-treated hardwood timbers

If oak or ash went to the bars, then its width cannot exceed 3 cm.

The basis of the trellis from the bars is the most diverse, but for trees you need an ordinary rectangular shape.

To make it you need:

The metal structure of the trellis is more suitable for garden areas because of the ability to give it the most amazing shape. Unfortunately, it is not as transportable as a wooden trellis, and begins to corrode faster.

WPC trellis is very similar to wood trellis in terms of installation.

Video: how to grow a pear on a trellis

Growing a pear on a trellis differs little from growing an apple tree. It is important not to forget that the pear is less flexible and needs to cut through the green mass of young shoots more often.

Making trellises with your own hands is not at all as difficult as it might seem. With timely care and fixing, the trees themselves will do the main work for the gardener, taking the desired shape in the course of growth.

Growing trees on trellises has been used for a long time, in order to be able to place a whole garden on a relatively small area. How to use this technique for apple trees - read below.

What are trellis apple trees

Trellis apple trees are not some a separate variety. The name implies a special technology for growing crops using trellises, similar to those used in the cultivation of tomatoes, cucumbers, but intended for trees. This technique began to be used about 200 years ago in Switzerland and France, from where it spread to other countries.

Did you know? Apples are the third most common fruit in the world after pears and peaches.

For cultivation by the trellis method, only dwarf varieties are suitable, characterized by slow shoot formation, or dwarf and columnar species. The tree is initially located on a support, from which trellises extend to the sides. It is to them that the skeletal branches are fixed.

With the help of such devices, you can create a whole trellis row, which will play not only a practical, but also an aesthetic role. It is also possible to grow apple trees in the immediate vicinity of the walls of outbuildings, fences and houses. With this approach, plant branches are fixed directly to the wall.

How is the installation of trellis on apple trees

A trellis is an iron or wooden pole with a frame on which a wire cloth or slats (wood, metal) are fixed. The seedling is immediately planted in the immediate vicinity of the main trellis column. In the process of development, during the period of annual pruning, the branches are formed in a way convenient for themselves and attached to slats or wire cloth.

Tapestries can be vertical and horizontal. The difference between them is in the location of the supporting supports for the branches. In the first version, the wire cloth or slats are attached from the bottom up, in the second - horizontally. The supports themselves are placed at a distance of 15–20 cm. The second interpretation is more convenient for fruit crops, so it is used more often.

Vertical trellis is suitable for the formation of ornamental trees, from which they do not expect a harvest. The fact is that in apple trees, only branches located horizontally, at an angle of 70–90 ° relative to the trunk, give fruit, while vertical growths do not form an ovary.

Features of planting and growing trellis apple trees with your own hands

Planting a trellis apple tree is practically no different from a regular one. This method involves the close arrangement of trees to each other and in a row. For cultivation, you first need to choose the brightest place on the site, with the occurrence ground water no closer than 2 m. Planting is best done in the spring before bud break, from mid-April to the end of May (for different regions Pickup times will vary depending on weather conditions.)

Autumn planting for trellis apple trees is impractical, because immediately after this manipulation it is necessary to perform pruning, and it will take a lot of energy from the tree to restore, which will reduce the rate of root survival. For growing on trellises, a one-, two- or three-year-old seedling is suitable. But one-year-old specimens have the best survival rate, plus, they are easier to form.

Important! Buy seedlings for growing on trellises only in specialized nurseries. Such points of sale offer customers quality grafted specimens adapted to the climate conditions of a particular zone.

The landing area should be prepared six months in advance. It needs to be cleared first. Then dig up the soil to a depth of 30 cm, disinfect with a 3% solution of copper sulfate. After 10 days, it is necessary to re-dig to the same depth, having previously applied for each 1 m²:

10 kg of sand and peat;
20 kg of manure;
300 g of superphosphate.

After another 10 days, the installation of the main pillars of the trellis is carried out. It looks something like this:

Pillars are best made of wood. If it is planned to grow trees that will reach a height of 2–3 m in adulthood, a distance of 1.5 m is left between the pillars, 1 m will be enough for dwarf specimens, and 60 cm for columnar specimens. Directly near these piles will be planted trees.

When the poles are installed, screens are attached to them, from which several rows of wire are pulled or wooden beams are nailed. The height of the supporting piles depends on the type of trees that are planned to be grown. For dwarf ones, a height of 1.5–2 m will be enough, for taller specimens - 3 m, columnar - 0.8–1 m. The pillars should have such a height above the soil level, and they need to be dug deep into 1 m.
Devices for tensioning the wire when installing the trellis: a - the “Flu” machine; b and d - levers for tensioning the wire; in - a device for pulling the wire; d - blocks with a vice for pulling the wire; e - ratchet tensioner

This concludes the autumn preparation process. In the spring, about a month before disembarkation, the second stage begins preparatory work Location on. The soil is cultivated again, disinfected. In the spring, instead of copper sulphate, you can use the Fitosporin solution (5:10). A week later, 20 kg of compost or rotted manure + 10 kg of peat-sand mixture + 500 g of wood ash are added for re-digging.

After digging, the site is leveled to retain moisture in the soil.

Digging a week before planting landing pits. They are made 60 cm deep. The main task is to dig a hole so that the support pillar is in the central part. The upper 30 cm of soil are laid separately, the lower ones are transferred to another part of the territory. The prepared top layer is mixed with:

10 kg of compost;
10 kg of sand;
100 g of superphosphate;
100 g of potassium sulfate.

Did you know? V diet recipes applesauce is used as an alternative to refined sugar.

With this mixture, the pit is filled to a third of the height, then 20 liters of water are poured. A week later, they land in the standard way:

In the center of the pit, on the south side of the support post, a mound is built.
The roots of plants are cut to healthy tissue (white on the cut).
The roots of the seedlings are immersed in the Fitosporin solution (10 g of powder is added to 5 liters of water) for 2 hours.
The roots of the plant are placed in a hole, then they are carefully straightened, the seedling is leveled along the root neck (after filling the hole, it should be located above the soil level at a height of 5 cm).
The rhizome of the tree is covered with soil, the near-stem circle is compacted and 20 liters of water are poured.
After subsidence of the soil, the missing layer is supplemented and its surface is mulched with compost or fresh grass to a height of 5 cm.
The trunk is immediately fixed to the post with a soft cloth or willow branches.
The central conductor is shortened to 60 cm if a one-year-old plant is planted, 2- and 3-year-old specimens are removed from all branches located at a height of up to 60 cm, 2 to 5 of the most powerful shoots are left from the skeletal ones and fixed on the screen (wire or wooden slats).

Subtleties of care

The basic care of plants cultivated on trellises is no different from that of standard cultivation. It includes standard activities:

watering;
fertilizing;
loosening and mulching the soil;
pruning and crown shaping.

Watering and fertilizing

Watering after planting is carried out every month. The plant takes an average of 10 to 20 liters of water at a time. Such an irrigation scheme is observed during the first 3 years of the tree's life on the site, if a one-year-old specimen was planted.

Important!If autumn turned out to be dry and hot, then pre-winter watering should definitely be done, no later than the end of October - with insufficient moisture in the root system, the trees will not be able to withstand frost.

Fruiting trees are supplied with moisture according to the scheme:

immediately after flowering;
in the middle of summer;
one week after harvest.

Water consumption for fruit-bearing trees is about 50 liters, for columnar and dwarf trees - 30 liters

During the first 3 years of life, top dressing plants are applied only in the spring to stimulate shoot formation. This will facilitate the work on the formation of the crown. During this period, nitrogenous fertilizers are needed. It is best to alternate minerals with organics after a year. So, in the first year after planting, 6 tbsp. l. urea or nitrophoska per 30 liters of water, next season a manure solution is used - 300 g of dry chicken manure or 5 liters of liquid mullein are added to 10 liters of water, then another 20 liters of water are added to the already obtained concentrate.

From 3–4 years of tree life on the site in the spring, nitrogenous top dressings continue to be applied. Immediately after flowering, compost-ash infusion is used. 5 kg of grass (celandine, nettle) and 1 kg of wood ash are added to 20 liters of water. The composition is insisted for 3 days, then strained, mixed with 10 liters of water. Use this composition not only for watering, but also for spraying. You can use it every 14 days.

In autumn, in mid-late October, the last top dressing is carried out. At this stage, 90 g of superphosphate per 1 m² of the trunk circle is added for digging

Pruning and crown shaping

Crown formation during trellis cultivation is the main method of agricultural technology. You can do it in several ways, depending on your own preferences:

horizontal cordon;
fan trellis;
palmette.

This formation is most easily performed when planting one-year-old seedlings. So, immediately after planting, the trunk is shortened to 60 cm. This will stimulate the growth of shoots to the sides. In the second year, in the spring, the 2 most powerful branches of the skeleton are left, growing in different directions. They are tied to a tightly stretched wire in a position of 90 ° in relation to the trunk.

In subsequent years, all shoots appearing on these branches are shortened to 15 cm.

When planning this type of formation, you should install the appropriate trellis in advance. It is a support post, from which planks extend in two different directions at a height of 60 cm, as in the variant with a horizontal cordon. After 40–50 cm from the first level of the planks, the second level is attached to the post. Only the planks themselves are fixed at an angle of 70° in relation to the central pile.

Did you know? Until 1600, all round-shaped fruits were called an apple.

Immediately after planting, shorten the center conductor to the required height. A year after planting, 2 branches that grow at a height of 50–60 cm are fixed to the lower level of the trellis at an angle of 90 °. In the future, all branches growing on them are shortened to 15 cm. A year later, a second tier of branches is formed, which are fixed on the corresponding section of the trellis. All other shoots, except for the left 4 and the central conductor, are cut into a ring.

palmette

This shape resembles a horizontal cordon, but suggests more tiers than just one. The distance between tiers should be at least 30 cm.

Trim and only before the buds begin to swell.
Immediately after cutting off the extra shoots, those that should be attached to the trellis, bend and carefully fix. Only at the end of June, you can begin to give the branches the necessary shape, otherwise there is a great risk of breaking the plant.
More simple option cultivation of apple trees on trellises is the use of living quarters - they accumulate heat, which allows you to grow a good crop even in regions of risky farming.
Be sure to ensure that there are several different varieties of apple trees on the site for cross-pollination.

Trellis growing of apple trees opens up more opportunities for farmers. Using this technique, you can engage in intensive cultivation of trees in small areas. In addition, trellis specimens carry an aesthetic value and are distinguished by higher yields, due to the location of the branches at a position of 90 ° relative to the trunk.