What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

13885 January 21, 2018

Buying an apartment in a newly built new building, many of our compatriots feel joy. This is not surprising, because what does his own house mean to a person, even if presented in the form an ordinary apartment is not worth explaining. However, after the first positive emotions subside, we are faced with the realization of a number of problems that will have to be solved before moving into an apartment. More precisely, they can not be solved, but then there is no need to talk about the comfort of living. Well, among the problems mentioned, we, first of all, will attribute the need to correct some imperfections, with which the builders "gifted" us. These flaws, as a rule, exist in every new building, and they can be replaced almost everywhere. But in this article we will pay attention to the floor and how it can be decorated with dignity.

Features of new buildings

Looking at the device of a concrete floor screed in modern new buildings, one often has to ask the question, why is it needed? This is due to several nuances. Firstly, any newly built house is characterized by such a process as shrinkage. In the process, all elements of the structure of the house, including the floor, are faced with a redistribution of loads, which can lead to various deformations of surfaces and the appearance of cracks. If we apply this in relation to a concrete screed, then it is likely that after six months or a year of operation of a completely new apartment, the concrete floor in it may be covered with cracks. And even a large thickness of the concrete floor screed may not save you from this phenomenon. Well, this is not just not aesthetically pleasing. Moisture usually strives to get into these cracks, dust and dirt accumulate there, which contain a large number of bacteria and microbes, including pathogens.

The second nuance that makes you think about the relevance of using a concrete screed is the quality of its performance. Many happy owners of apartments in new buildings, who, let's say, do not belong to an elite intercom, are well aware that the concrete floor screed left by the builders either needs major repairs or must be completely replaced. This pleasure is unpleasant and costly, and therefore it is quite possible to think about a reasonable alternative to a concrete screed, which can be a classic wooden floor on logs.

It just so happened that many consider the construction of a concrete screed an inexpensive event. Of course, when compared to the cost of furnishing parquet, cork or tile floors, concrete flooring seems to be a cheaper option. But if we talk about the need to replace or repair it, then a completely different picture emerges, which we saw solely on the basis of personal experience.

So if it comes about a large room in terms of footage, repairing, however, as well as creating an additional screed is not entirely cost-effective and practical. Therefore, the old screed must be removed. To do this, in principle, is not difficult: two people will cope with it in a couple of days. But then the question arises of what to do with the mountains of garbage that have appeared. Upload it to garbage bags and endure, especially if the elevator does not work in a new building - an unpleasant and tiring occupation. You will spend no less effort bringing sand and cement into the apartment, of which a lot will be needed even for a small apartment.

Further, you will have to spend time and effort on pouring a new screed, and, moreover, without a guarantee of the success of this event, because let's not forget about the shrinkage of the house mentioned above. So, as a result of all your work, you can get a new concrete screed, the quality of which will be slightly better than the old one.

Wooden floor as an alternative to concrete screed

In connection with all of the above, wooden floors on logs seem to be quite a worthy alternative to a concrete screed, and here's why. Firstly, such a floor will not react at all to the shrinkage of the house, because the entire floor structure will have much less weight. Secondly, making such floors is a simpler and more fleeting event, of course, provided that a knowledgeable person is involved in its implementation.

Thirdly, under such a floor, you can start up almost any communications, while, if necessary, gaining access to them. This nuance is especially important, because to get to the defective plumbing or heating pipes hidden under the concrete screed is almost impossible without damaging it. Well, one more advantage of wooden floors is the ability to improve the heat and sound insulation characteristics of the room. Moreover, for this you also do not have to make great efforts, because to do this, it is enough to fill the space between the lags with the appropriate materials.

Many people ask, what about the durability of the floors? After all, here, it would seem, concrete has an undeniable advantage over wood. In fact, you can "open" the wooden floors in the 40-year-old "Khrushchev", and make sure that all the elements floor construction perfectly preserved. We say this based on personal experience... Yes, for this you will have to carefully paint over the wood and treat it with protective compounds, but this is not difficult and not so expensive to do.

Refusing a concrete screed?

However, do not rush to abandon the concrete screed. For such specific premises in an apartment as a toilet, a bathroom, a kitchen, a balcony or a loggia, this option for arranging the floor will be just right, because here the tree will have to experience constant attacks of moisture and temperature drops, which will not have the best effect on its safety. In addition, you may need a concrete screed as a preparation for the installation of self-leveling floors, laying tiles or porcelain stoneware. For other premises, it is quite possible to choose the option with the arrangement of a wooden floor, at least for that period until the shrinkage of the house is completed. Well, after that, if something in such a field does not suit you, you can again remember the concrete screed.

otdelkapola.com

Concrete screed or wood floor

Having a relatively recent experience in carrying out repairs in a new building, I want to raise one slippery question: why do we need a concrete screed? Somehow it so happened that in any overhauled apartment they make a new screed or thoroughly repair the old one. We will leave the repair and leveling of the old screed for now, we will discuss the question: why is it necessary to equip a new concrete screed? Ever wondered about alternatives? In the 21st century, there are a lot of new technologies and materials for arranging a flat, solid surface, its sound and heat insulation. Why screed? Cheap and familiar? I agree with the second, but not with the first. See for yourself my situation.

As I wrote earlier, I received an apartment in the condition in which the developers wanted to rent it out. That is, the basic "training" in terms of theirs. Curved screed and curved plaster on the walls. Considering the large size of the rooms (up to 25 square meters) and the disgusting condition of the screed, it was unprofitable to level it. Firstly, the dubious result of leveling the "sandy beach", and secondly, the height of the additional screed in big room would be unreasonably high. Therefore, in almost the entire apartment, the screed was removed at least half. That is, where it was easy to destroy - the screed was destroyed. Where the cement was in quantity and the screed was held, it was left alone.

Now let's see what awaited me. To break is not to build, the screed was destroyed in two days by the forces of extremely low-paid students. And then the screed had to be removed. The elevator, as usual, is not turned on for the first year, so that repair crews would not kill him. That is, debris and loose debris were loaded into polypropylene bags and carried into the yard from the seventh floor. Then a plumber entered the apartment and checked the integrity polypropylene pipes heating, which were divorced from room to room on the floor in a screed.

The next step was a rather expensive drift to the seventh floor of sand and cement in the same polypropylene bags. Imagine the required amount of material for a 100-meter apartment. In addition, as it must necessarily be by construction concepts, the workers managed to fill the downstream apartments with water without completely shutting off the water for the night. True, I did not pay for the drying of the victims, my builders dealt with them.

Well, then I was waiting for a long process of pouring a new screed and waiting for its readiness for the next stages construction works... Naturally, the last piece of screed in the corridor from front door builders poured without cement. I opened it with a key. Remodeled. In addition, I am not entirely happy with the final result. Even in small rooms, the screed cracked, and I don't know what is there now under the carpet after five years of operation.

Now remember who saw how the floors were arranged in the old Khrushchevs. And it's elementary. I had to tear off the floors in such an apartment 10 years ago. These are wooden logs with painted floorboards. In excellent condition, everywhere except in the corner of the kitchen under the sink. After all, over 40 years of operation, a lot of water got there and the boards in that corner were rotten. The wood floors were warm and durable. Well, slightly uneven and recent years very squeaky. But forgive me, because now is the XXI century, why not make the floors on the logs perfectly smooth, durable, beautiful and soundless? It will even work out very well. And much cheaper than setting up a new concrete screed.

What are the disadvantages of a wood floor? With quality installation and use the right materials there are practically none. And the pluses? Weight. It saves time and money. Reducing the load on the floor slabs. The ability to carry out any communications and the relative ease of their maintenance in problem cases. Try to get to the defective heating or water pipes in a concrete screed. Can you imagine the scale of the problem? Exactly. And what about insulation and sound insulation? Anything you want in the space between the lags. The screed is just resting.

In general, if I now had to buy an apartment in a new building or an old Khrushchev, I would not do the screed, and upon signing the contract, I would refuse to arrange it with builders. The only case where the arrangement of the screed is reasonable is the bathroom and toilet, and of course the kitchen. As preparation for laying tiles on the floor. Everything.

If someone strongly disagrees with me - I ask your arguments in kamenty.

housedb.ru

Which floor is better to do in the apartment: analysis of various options

Started overhaul? In this case, you will certainly be faced with the question, which floor is better to do in the apartment? There are a lot of varieties of bases, from a banal floor screed to high-tech floors on adjustable logs, and the choice between them is by no means an easy task. Rely on builders for this? As they say, it will be more expensive for itself. It remains to figure it out on our own, which we will do in this article, in which, together with the site stroisovety.org, we will look for the answer to the question, which floor is best done in an apartment or a private house? We will study all the existing options, get acquainted with their features, on the basis of which you can draw your own conclusions.

What floor to make in the apartment photo

Which floor is better to do in the apartment: screeds in all their splendor

Yes, yes - you heard right. It is screeds in the plural - today you can count at least three different technologies for their manufacture. Moreover, all these technologies are by no means similar to each other and do not necessarily involve the use of cement-sand or any other mortar - these are both classic options and, so to speak, adapted specifically for apartments in high-rise buildings.

This is with regard to the floor screed, one of the disadvantages of which is the cold - from such a base it blows them. Walking on it barefoot without heating will not work in any way, even if it is insulated in all sorts of ways. The only base made on the basis of sand and cement, which can really be called a screed, is a screed made of a solution with foam injected into it - the so-called warm screed, which will cost you no less than a dry screed, although they have approximately the same insulation effect ... In general, if you want to get a really insulated base of the floor, then the answer to the question of what floor to make in the apartment is better to look for among the boardwalks, which we will talk about further. Here you should look for the answer to the question, which floor is cheaper to make in an apartment?

What kind of floors can be made in an apartment: flooring on logs and their features

This is also not a small group of technologies for making floors in an apartment - they have several main advantages, due to which they are classified as the most preferred floors. Firstly, this is the lack of water, which, as mentioned above, leaves no chances for the neighbors below to make free repairs. Secondly, environmental friendliness - in most cases, such floors are made of natural materials... And thirdly, simple assembly, which, with knowledge of simple nuances, can be mastered by any sufferer. You can read about the details of making such floor bases in other articles on our site, and here we will talk about the types of technologies and get acquainted with their features.

To begin with, you should understand that such floors can differ from each other in two things - the design of the lag and the type, or rather the material of the flooring.

All such floors have one small drawback - in particular, they have some restrictions in terms of decoration. For example, tiling such floors is quite problematic. But this type of floor is the best predisposition for insulation and sound insulation.

Basically, that's all. Now judge for yourself which floor is better to make in the apartment. Just remember that rational choice is not based solely on the financial side of the issue. Nowadays, cheap flooring is almost always not very high quality - this does not apply to screeds, since this technology does not belong to our time.

stroisovety.org

Installation of floors in a wooden house, methods, technologies for laying floors with your own hands

The construction of a floor in a wooden house involves the manufacture of a base of concrete or wood. What basis you choose for arranging your home is up to you, and our task is to tell in detail about the advantages and disadvantages of one or another floor in your home.

In the table below, we will consider the main parameters of these two surfaces, it remains for you to analyze the situation and draw conclusions. So which floors are better: concrete or wood?

Table 1. Comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of a concrete and wooden subfloor in a private house

	Concrete	Wood
Life time	long	smaller, why the floor and requires periodic repair
Humidity	dry	the tree is unstable in relation to moisture, prone to decay
Thermal insulation	cold	warm
Soundproofing	average	high
Price	low	high
Complexity of installation	simple	complicated
Manufacturing time	long (due to the need to dry the concrete)	quickly
may crack, shrinkage is possible	may dry out or swell under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, a creak appears, but there is no shrinkage
Possibility to place communications under the floor	no (it is difficult or impossible to repair pipes filled with concrete)	yes (pipes are placed between the logs, if necessary, it is easy to raise the floor and repair them)
increased	minimal
Fire safety	fireproof	highly flammable and flammable
Impact on human health	less safe than wood, but the appearance of insects and harmful microorganisms is excluded	natural, breathable, environmentally friendly material

Important! For the kitchen and bathroom, only the concrete version is suitable.

Preparatory work

Before making a floor in a wooden house, you will need to prepare the base. It is recommended to carry out all work in the building, the construction of which is at the stage of completion (with already erected walls and an installed roof). Depth rate groundwater- not less than 4 m from the upper level. Remember that the main requirement for the soil is dryness.

Preparation for flooring in a wooden house is performed in the following order:

Clean the surface (or dismantle the old coating). If there are traces of mold under the previous coating on the second floor and above, the base is treated with an antiseptic. On the old concrete floor cracks are closed with mortar.
For the device of the floor on the ground, part of the soil is removed to the depth of the future layers of the floor.
Check the suitability of the soil. To do this, step on the ground and transfer the weight of the body to the heel. If the soil is weak, then the heel will easily sink into the soil, if it is dense, then it will fail by no more than half. What if the soil is unsuitable? Shoot until you reach a suitable density. Replenish the missing height with sand, pouring it to the required level when arranging sub-floors.
The soil is tamped using a construction vibrator or a homemade tamper. During compaction, the sand is moistened. The surface is treated so that no traces are left on the ground upon impact.
Marking is applied. First, they put a zero mark, which means the level of the finished floor (it should coincide with the bottom of the door opening). From this point, measure 1 m up and make another mark. With the help of a building level, this mark is transferred along the entire perimeter. Nails are driven in at the corners and a cord is pulled, creating a solid line. From it, measure down 1 m and put a zero mark on the walls. If you wish, you can pull on another cord at this level.

Important! Installation of a floor in a wooden house begins with the choice of material floor covering to correctly calculate the level when arranging sub-floors.

Many homeowners sooner or later face the problem of replacing old floor coverings. Of course, this problem is not solved in an instant and is often associated with a significant waste of material resources, because any work on remodeling the floor is an expensive pleasure.

Getting down to repair work, many are wondering which of the flooring options will be more acceptable. To do this, it is necessary to consider the main options and conduct a detailed analysis of them.

The modern system of the construction industry offers 3 ways of arranging floors: screed in dry and wet versions, decoration on wooden logs. These varieties are actively used at the present time, each of them has distinctive features.

Analyzing any of the techniques, one should also highlight the nature of the materials used, the technology for conducting installation works... Floor repair on logs has noticeable advantages over other coating options. It is necessary to dwell in more detail on each of the named options.

Cement screed: features

Cement floor screed has the following purpose:

Aligns the underlying bases.
Hides the pipeline.
Divides thermal insulation loads evenly.
Supply of standardized heat assimilation by floors.
Participates in the formation of slopes.

The screed assumes perfect leveling of the base, it makes it perfectly smooth, neat and dry. The floor covering acquires a special strength, which makes the subsequent operation practical and convenient.

From the point of view of technology, the screed seems to be a wet process, which leads to wetting of the walls, ceiling, and also the surfaces of neighbors. In addition, it is very difficult to be and live in a room where such work is carried out.

The fact is that such repairs are often associated with dust and dirt in the room. Getting rid of this type of litter can be tricky. The poured floor dries out for a very long time, the exposure time can be up to a month. A damp base will not allow the facing material to be laid on the surface for a long time.

A screed as a way of carrying out repairs indoors, even with a high-quality organization, does not allow obtaining ideal results for leveling the coating. In addition to this, special mixtures should be used to level the base. These are self-leveling compositions, the cost of which is quite high.

In addition, the screed is distinguished by a complex process of technological laying. It involves preliminary preparation of the base, priming, placing beacons, stirring the solution, and waiting for the surface to dry completely.

Having chosen this method of repairing the floor covering, it is worth following the high-quality performance of the work, because it is impossible to remake the finished base, and dismantling the old one will cost a significant amount, and a lot of effort will be spent.

Among the disadvantages of this design, one can single out a rather complicated calculation of the amount of required material.

Dry screed: highlights

Floor renovation based on dry screed is a novelty. Compared to this method with a conventional coating with a cement-sand mixture, the first option has significant positive indicators.

The assembly technique is characterized by cleanliness, absence of dust, litter, water. Such a floor is assembled in a short period of time. The finished base can be used immediately.

The flaw in this design is associated with the material used. The evenness of the coating is provided by finely dispersed expanded clay. However, such a base in the form of a free-flowing substance can give uneven shrinkage, especially at points of movement of residents of the house, such as a corridor, passages.

In this case, the unevenness of the floor will be even more pronounced. As a rough version, GVL is used, the material is weak and easily breakable, it is not able to withstand the loads acting on the floors. The points of active movement of residents begin to crumble, crack, and be pushed through. The floor is deformed, the quality of the coating suffers.

In addition, paper laid on GVL seems to be a favorable area for the growth of fungi and the appearance of mold.

Before the final decision on the choice of a screed for the floor is made, it is necessary to study its features. Giving preference to one or another type, there is no need to rush; all aspects of this process should be weighed. The table below will help you figure out the main points.

Wet screed	Dry screed
The help of qualified craftsmen is needed during installation work.	The process of flooring is carried out according to a simplified scheme, which allows people who are not related to the construction profession to make the coating.
Associated with the treatment of the entire surface in a short period of time. The solution quickly hardens, after which it will be impossible to use it for work.	The dry coating is laid by passing through several stages, carrying out a gradual laying of the floor.
Floor repairs associated with the use of cement are characterized by poor heat retention rates and insufficient insulation from extraneous sounds.	Expanded clay is distinguished by a good degree of heat retention and excellent sound insulation properties.
A wet screed does not allow other coatings to be placed on the surface, except for the floor base.	Using such natural qualities of expanded clay as flowability, any communications, warm floors, electrical wires can be placed in the base.

Wooden floors on logs

To answer the question which is better - a floor on logs or a screed, you need to deal with design features each of these sides, highlighting their positive and negative aspects. So, a wooden base in the classical sense is an actively used type of floor base, like a cement screed.

The main positive aspects applications of construction on logs are:

the ability to create a flawlessly smooth surface;
significant savings in material resources and forces;
capacity building for construction in the subfield of various communications, electrical wiring and engineering systems;
good heat retention and protection from extraneous sounds;
lowering the degree of load on old floors in a residential building;
the ability to erect ceilings in several levels.

The device of the floor on the logs is characterized by a weak technological basis.

Such structures are characterized by the fact that they are mounted on any shape; bars, bricks, roofing felt can act as its capacity. They are fixed with anchor bolts using one of the most elementary methods.

In order for the floor to acquire flawless evenness indicators, it is necessary to use a laser level. Other tools will not produce the results you want. The weak point of such a base will be a frame anchor or a polypropylene nail, which simply will not support the weight of the entire device. As a rule, after 3 months, such a structure begins to weaken, squeaks appear.

To carry out the installation of the floor on the logs should experienced master, because such work requires experience and is distinguished by special jewelry, subtlety of the process. Not every person can lay such a structure on a lining material of different dimensions and unequal thickness, observing construction standards and adhering to the same level.

However, even if the floor is not laid correctly, it can always be disassembled and the materials remain intact. It is not at all difficult to mount a new structure.

For wooden floors, logs, plywood, floorboards are taken. Wood raw materials are absolutely clean from the point of view of ecology; they do not change over a significant period of time. The gap between the floor and the base contains an air cushion, there is a constant air circulation, thanks to which the integrity and excellent condition of the materials will be ensured.

Adjustable floors: characteristics

Floor repair associated with adjustable structures characterizes the positive qualities of conventional cement screed, dry version and classic wood bases. However, the disadvantages are also inherent in it. As for the assembly, it is carried out in a short time, there is no dust, dirt, wetting of the surface.

As a result, the base acquires strength, smoothness, it is ready for laying any floor covering. The floor, finished with wood, has a warmer base and allows any kind of communication.

Adjustable designs are based on easy way installation work. During use laser level you can get flawless indicators regarding the smoothness of the surface. The anchor used in the repair fixes the structure as tightly as possible. Lags and plywood are fixed with washers, locknuts, which provides a good result. The help of a specialist in such a matter will be superfluous. Assembling the floor resembles the construction of a conventional structure, the stages of work are simple and clear.

Adjustable floors actively use wood as materials, and, as you know, such a base guarantees an excellent quality of the coating, which is manifested in its excellent performance, which distinguishes it from gypsum, cement and expanded clay.

After doing some comparison, you should decide which is better. However, often the arrangement of floors depends on certain conditions, operation and your capabilities. The choice is yours. Good luck!

At the very beginning of the repair, we have a choice: to use cement-sand screed or a wooden floor? And what is the difference between them, we will figure it out now.

Price

The screed is a reliable option for installing a subfloor. To fill a 5 cm thick screed, you will need 0.5 bags of cement and 1.5 bags of sand. The cost of cement is about 300 rubles for a 50 kg bag, a bag of sand of the same weight will cost about 50 rubles. It turns out that one m2 of screed will cost about 225 rubles. The cost of work is approximately 250 rubles per m2. In total, you can keep within 500 rubles for 1 m2 of screed. This is the cost of working with materials.

Now let's look at a wooden floor. We will take as a basis a dry timber 100x100 mm with a step of 40 cm. Above - OSB 18 mm thick. The cost of OSB is approximately 1.8 thousand rubles. per sheet, one sheet - 3 m2 (or 600 rubles per m2). The cost of dry timber is about 16,000 rubles per m3. For 1 m2 of floor, 2.5 meters of timber will go (this is 0.025 m3 or 400 rubles). It turns out that the material will cost 1000 rubles per 1 m2 + the cost of carpenter's services 250 rubles per 1 m2, in total - 1250 rubles per 1 m2 of wooden floor.

Communications

V modern houses heating, water supply and sewerage systems are laid exclusively in the floor. If you have a gust, then the wooden floors can be cut quickly and easily, while the screed will have to be hammered, and the dust will stand in a column. Timing

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the day of pouring, with 70% of its strength already in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it, but few people follow this technology.

The wooden floor can be used immediately after tightening the last screw without worrying about any consequences.

Durability

If a non-professional is engaged in the flooring of a wooden floor, then a creak underfoot will appear in a week or two. Even the most inept person can do the screed, it will not creak or crack from this. If the screed is made of poor quality, you will easily notice it already in the first week at the stage of rough work. It will begin to crack or buckle.

Weight

Weight of 1 m2 OSB 18 mm thick - 12 kg. Wooden logs (1 m2) weigh approximately 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. In total, approximately 40 kg weighs 1 m2 of wooden floor.

1 m2 of screed with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg. And if you choose what material to lift to the floor, then, it would seem, the choice should fall on the tree. But this opinion is erroneous. Bags weighing 50 kg can be transported in any elevator, be it a new building or panel house... The tree will have to be carried up the stairs, since it simply cannot fit into the elevator.

Ecology

There is no need to talk about the environmental friendliness of materials. Since both cement and OSB are pure water chemistry. But manufacturers will easily issue certificates that both can be given to children for breakfast.

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Unique cherry (bushy varieties)

Tiled and self-leveling floors on wooden floors cannot be made without a leveling screed.

The leveling of a wooden base can be done from a wet cement-sand mortar, a semi-dry mixture with fiberglass, gypsum fiber board, or Knauf floor slabs over a layer of insulation.

Figure 1. Screed by wooden floor.

Feature of the screed device for wooden floors

The cement-sand screed, after drying and gaining strength, turns into a monolithic slab that is not subject to linear changes. And the tree has the properties to expand or dry out under the influence of humidity and temperature changes. The screed connected to the base, under the influence of unstable wooden structures, will crack and collapse.

Therefore, the main condition when installing a concrete screed on a wooden base is its isolation from wooden structures so that the screed solution does not touch the wood of the walls and floor.

In addition, the screed should not overload the floor.

Preparation of the base for the screed

Before deciding to pour a concrete screed on wooden floor, carefully examine the base. Check the condition of the logs and floor boards.

The wooden covering must be tough and durable, free from mold and decay.

If the coating does not inspire confidence, you can strengthen it by installing additional logs, or replacing worn out floorboards.

Figure 2. Repair of a wooden floor.

Before installing the leveling screed on the repaired wooden base, we carry out the preparatory measures:

We seal large cracks and abutments to the walls with epoxy putty or polyurethane foam. After hardening, cut off the excess sealant, grind irregularities.
We clean the floor surface of debris and dust and treat it with an antiseptic, and then with a primer two times.
To the walls, along the perimeter of the room, we attach the damper tape to double-sided tape. It will separate the concrete of the floor from wooden wall... The tape should be 5-10 centimeters wider than the height of the tie.

You can use expanded polystyrene or a wooden board for these purposes.

We lay a dense plastic wrap, at least 100 microns thick, separating the screed and floor boards. We lay the strips of the film overlapping, fastening together with adhesive tape, with a 15-20 centimeters approach to the walls.

Figure 3. Insulation of wood flooring.

We strictly monitor the integrity of the coating to ensure the tightness of the insulation. Do not allow moisture to enter the wooden floors both during the installation of the screed and during the operation of the coating.

Wet screed, arranged on a wooden floor, must be reinforced. To do this, lay a steel mesh on the insulated surface, with a 10x10 cell. When pouring, the mesh should fall into the screed array, therefore it is better to lay it on supports from the solution.

Important!
Semi-dry screed does not require additional reinforcement, since the reinforcing fiber is included in the composition of the solution.

Using a laser or hydraulic level, we mark the height of the screed. To do this, transfer the horizon line to the wall; it can be at a height of one meter from the floor. Then, using measurements, we find the highest point of the floor and from it, adding three centimeters of the thickness of the screed, we find the mark of the screed surface. We transfer this line to the wall along the perimeter of the premises.
Along the insulating layer, we expose the guide beacons along which the screeds will be aligned. They are made from mortar, in the form of continuous strips, or a steel profile installed on slides from a solution. You cannot screw the profile to the base with self-tapping screws, so as not to violate the integrity of the insulation.

The height of the beacons is regulated strictly according to the level, pressing the slats into the mixture or adding a solution under them.

We arrange the first row of lighthouses at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the wall, and the next row - 1-1.5 meters from each other, but not more than the length of the rule.

Pouring the screed can only be started after the solution of the beacons has dried.

Semi-dry screed device

Semi-dry screed is made of cement, sand, modifying additives and reinforcing fiber. The minimum amount of water is added to the mixture, which is necessary only to hydrate the cement.

It is necessary to carry out such a screed in strict accordance with the manufacturing technology and building rules. Observing a certain sequence.

Preparation of the solution

The solution, in large quantities, is prepared on construction site, in a pneumosupercharger. This device acts as a mortar mixer and concrete pump, eliminating the need for lifting mechanisms.

Figure 4. Production and supply of the solution using a pneumatic blower.

All components of the solution are loaded into the container of the device, in a certain sequence and thoroughly mixed. Under the pressure of compressed air, the mixture is supplied through a hose to the place of work.

For uniform distribution of the mixture coming through the hose, special dampers are used.

The mortar, directly at the place of installation, can be prepared in a mortar mixer or in a container using a construction mixer.

It is better to use ready-made dry mix in bags for such purposes.

If it is not there, we take cement and sand, in a ratio of one to three, and stirring, gradually add fiber, at the rate of about 700 grams of fiber, for one cubic meter solution.

At the end of the process, add a little water and mix until smooth.

You can facilitate styling by adding plasticizers to the finished mixture.

Important!
We check the consistency by squeezing a small amount of the mixture in a fist. The finished solution should turn into a dense lump that does not release water when squeezed.

Screed device

It is necessary to lay the semi-dry mixture strictly according to the installed beacons, starting from the far wall of the room.

We level and compact the solution using a rule and a vibrating screed, carefully filling all the joints.

Two hours after installation, the beacons can be removed, and the resulting cavities can be sealed with a solution.

Figure 5. Grouting a semi-dry screed.

Wipe the entire screed with a disc grinder... Rub the corners and abutments to the walls with a trowel. At the same time, it is better to move along a freshly laid screed in special concrete steps in order to avoid its pushing and damage.

If the room is more than 20 square meters, on the surface of the screed we cut expansion joints.

After grouting, the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even.

After a day, you can walk on the screed, and after three to four days you can start finishing.

Semi-dry screed is an ideal base for tiles or other covering on a wooden base.

It has many advantages over wet or dry screed:

the finished coating is highly durable and abrasion resistant;
due to the semi-dry porous structure, it is much lighter than a wet screed, its device does not significantly load wooden structures;
has high soundproofing and thermal performance;
the use of a minimum amount of water in a mixture with reinforcing fiberglass, excludes the formation of cracks and shrinkage of the finished screed;
dirty wet processes and the ingress of water from the solution to the ceiling and lower floors are excluded;
Modern technology and efficient equipment allows the production of large volumes of semi-dry screeds in a short time.

The permissible thickness of a semi-dry screed is from three to five centimeters.

It is possible to perform a semi-dry screed on the underfloor heating system.

In this case, it is necessary to lay polystyrene foam on the wooden base, and then roll insulation with a foil layer.

Figure 6. Diagram of the device of the underfloor heating system in a screed on a wooden floor.

Place the underfloor heating cable system on the insulation.

Recommend!
When installing underfloor heating systems in wooden houses, it is better to give preference to heating mats or infrared heater in the form of a film with heating elements that can be laid on the finished screed in a layer of tile adhesive.

Wet screed

A wet screed is made of cement and sand, in a ratio of 1: 3 with the addition of water, to a plastic, creamy state.

Such a screed requires careful waterproofing of the base, preventing the penetration of water from the solution onto wooden structures.

The solution is prepared directly at the pouring site and laid in an even layer over the beacons.

On a wooden floor, a wet screed is undesirable for the following reasons:

due to the severity, wet screed requires a rigid and solid foundation;
the wet process increases the humidity in the house, which is not desirable for wooden structures;
in case of minor damage to the waterproofing film, water from the screed can get onto the wooden base and lower floors;
a wet screed requires mandatory reinforcement, which additionally makes the structure heavier;
the period of drying and curing of a wet screed is 28 days;
the entire drying period, a wet screed requires care: protection from drafts and moisture.

Figure 7. The device of a wet cement-sand screed.

Dry screed device on a wooden base

A dry screed consists of a layer of insulation and a hard coating of gypsum fiber board, gypsum board or special two-layer floor slabs of the Knauf system.

As a heater, you can use expanded clay of different fractions, hard mineral plates or Penoplex.

Under the expanded clay, we lay a layer of waterproofing made of dense polyethylene, 200 microns thick, so that it is not damaged when backfilling and tamping expanded clay.

Important!
We put polyethylene on the walls 10-15 centimeters above the screed mark and fix it with construction tape. We lay the strips of polyethylene in an overlap and glue them together with adhesive tape.

We mark the height of the expanded clay layer using a laser level. We transfer the marks to the walls along the perimeter of the premises.

We install beacons from a metal profile for drywall. We verify the lighthouses strictly according to the marks of the building level.

We pour a layer of expanded clay, carefully compacting and leveling with a long strip. We fill and ram the abutments to the walls.

Figure 8. GVL screed device for expanded clay.

A day later, on the caked expanded clay layer, we lay drywall sheets or floor slabs of the KNAUF system.

In the case of using sheets, we lay out the first layer on the surface of expanded clay, leaving deformation gaps between the sheets of 1 millimeter, with an offset in the seams.

We cover the first layer with glue and lay the second layer of sheets on it, also displacing the seams by at least 30-40 centimeters. We fasten the layers together with self-tapping screws.

When using ready-made Knauf panels, we lay them on a tamped surface and fasten them using special locking joints.

Seams, joints and grooves from self-tapping screws are sealed with putty, grinded and covered with two layers of primer.

Advantages of dry screed:

perfectly flat base;
excellent sound and heat insulation due to expanded clay;
low weight does not require reinforcement of structures;
the surface is ready for finishing immediately after installation;

Figure 9. Diagram of a GVL screed device on a wooden base.

The only drawback of a dry screed with insulation is its large thickness, which does not allow its use in rooms with low ceilings.

Which screed to choose

If you have a solid and rigid wooden base, it is better to choose a semi-dry floor screed.

It will not load the floor too much, the water from the screed will not get onto the wooden structures, even if the integrity of the waterproofing is violated. Provides a solid foundation for any floor finish.

When leveling floors in old and dilapidated wooden houses, dry flooring should be preferred. A dry screed is suitable if you need to insulate the floor of the first floor or the ceiling over an unheated basement.

If you decide to make a screed on a wooden floor, contact the specialists who will help you choose the best option leveling your floor and perform the work efficiently, quickly and professionally.

Scheme of the sub-floor variety.

When starting repair work, many are wondering which of the flooring options will be more acceptable. To do this, it is necessary to consider the main options and conduct a detailed analysis of them.

Analyzing any of the methods, one should also highlight the nature of the materials used, the technology for carrying out installation work. Floor repair on logs has noticeable advantages over other coating options. It is necessary to dwell in more detail on each of the named options.

Cement screed: features

Scheme of a cement floor screed.

Cement floor screed has the following purpose:

Aligns the underlying bases.
Hides the pipeline.
Divides thermal insulation loads evenly.
Supply of standardized heat assimilation by floors.
Participates in the formation of slopes.

Installation diagram for screed beacons.

Among the disadvantages of this design, one can single out a rather complicated calculation of the amount of required material.

Dry screed: highlights

Floor renovation based on dry screed is a novelty. Compared to this method with a conventional coating with a cement-sand mixture, the first option has significant positive indicators.

The assembly technique is characterized by cleanliness, absence of dust, litter, water. Such a floor is assembled in a short period of time. The finished base can be used immediately.

Dry screed device diagram.

In addition, paper laid on GVL seems to be a favorable area for the growth of fungi and the appearance of mold.

Wet screed	Dry screed
The help of qualified craftsmen is needed during installation work.	The process of flooring is carried out according to a simplified scheme, which allows people who are not related to the construction profession to make the coating.
Associated with the treatment of the entire surface in a short period of time. The solution quickly hardens, after which it will be impossible to use it for work.	The dry coating is laid by passing through several stages, carrying out a gradual laying of the floor.
Floor repairs associated with the use of cement are characterized by poor heat retention rates and insufficient insulation from extraneous sounds.	Expanded clay is distinguished by a good degree of heat retention and excellent sound insulation properties.
A wet screed does not allow other coatings to be placed on the surface, except for the floor base.	Using such natural qualities of expanded clay as flowability, any communications, warm floors, electrical wires can be placed in the base.

Wooden floors on logs

To answer the question which is better - the floor on the logs or the screed, it is necessary to understand the design features of each of these sides, highlighting their positive and negative aspects. So, a wooden base in the classical sense is an actively used type of floor base, like a cement screed.

Plank floor options on logs.

The main positive aspects of using the design on the logs are:

the ability to create a flawlessly smooth surface;
significant savings in material resources and forces;
capacity building for the construction of various communications, electrical wiring and engineering systems in the subfield;
good heat retention and protection from extraneous sounds;
lowering the degree of load on old floors in a residential building;
the ability to erect ceilings in several levels.

The device of the floor on the logs is characterized by a weak technological basis.

Schemes of modernized wooden floors with logs.

An experienced master should carry out the installation of the floor on the logs, because such work requires experience and is distinguished by a special jewelry, subtlety of the process. Not every person can lay such a structure on a lining material of different dimensions and unequal thickness, observing construction standards and adhering to the same level.

However, even if the floor is not laid correctly, it can always be disassembled and the materials remain intact. It is not at all difficult to mount a new structure.

Adjustable floors: characteristics

Complete adjustable flooring.

Floor repairs associated with adjustable structures characterize the positive qualities of the conventional cement screed, the dry version and the classic wood substrates. However, the disadvantages are also inherent in it. As for the assembly, it is carried out in a short time, there is no dust, dirt, wetting of the surface.

As a result, the base acquires strength, smoothness, it is ready for laying any floor covering. The floor, finished with wood, has a warmer base and allows any kind of communication.

Adjustable designs are based on a simple installation method. In the process of using a laser level, you can get flawless indicators regarding the smoothness of the surface. The anchor used in the repair fixes the structure as tightly as possible. Lags and plywood are fixed with washers, locknuts, which provides a good result. The help of a specialist in such a matter will be superfluous. The assembly of the floor resembles the construction of a conventional structure, the stages of work are simple and clear.