• What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

    Advantages of a cement-sand screed:


    Among the main disadvantages, it is worth highlighting:

    • long hardening period;
    • the need for skills to perform such work or the involvement of professionals.

    The screed begins with determination of the zero level... To do this, you can use a building level, with the help of which a single line is created at a height of about 1.5 m from the floor, from which the distance to the floor level is measured. It is worth focusing on the minimum distance that will help determine the level of the floor height, but it should be borne in mind that the minimum thickness of the screed is 2 cm. along the bottom of the wall, also outline the lines of the future floor level, which will help to make the screed as flat as possible.

    Next stage - putting up beacons, which allow you to achieve the most even surface. They can be used as T-shaped metal rails, which are fixed to the base with adjustable screws. An easier way is to install guides on slides made of thick cement-sand mortar of the required height. The evenness of the lighthouses is constantly checked using the building level. The first is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are mounted parallel to it with a step of 40-60 cm.

    The basis of the self-leveling mixture is cement, but in addition to it, the composition also includes special modifying additives that can increase the plasticity and fluidity of the solution. Some additives allow to contain the appearance of microcracks in the future. Depending on the composition self-leveling mixtures are divided into:

    • high strength;
    • for ;
    • fast-hardening;
    • thin-layer.

    In addition, there are self-leveling mixtures on sale designed not only for rough finishing, but also for the finish, as well as formulations with special properties. There are also compositions for rough alignment, they are intended for surfaces with significant irregularities.

    All self-leveling compounds boast a number of advantages:

    • simplicity and high speed of working with them;
    • speed of solidification;
    • high strength indicators, therefore this leveling method is quite applicable for rooms with high degree patency;
    • resistance to temperature extremes.

    Cons of this method leveling the floor a little - rather, it is its features. Large differences in the level of the floor surface cannot be leveled with a self-leveling floor. You need to work with the mixtures very quickly - if you hesitate and allow it to dry, then you will hardly be able to achieve a flat surface.

    It is really easy to work with such mixtures. They are usually used for leveling concrete and sandy bases. Preparation of the mixture consists in diluting the purchased powder with the required amount of water. For mixing, it is better to use a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle. The composition is prepared in portions, since its properties are lost within 20 minutes. Naturally, before starting work, it is worth carefully preparing the original surface: clean it of dust, patch up all cracks, treat it with a primer.

    When the mixture is ready, it is immediately poured onto the floor. Its principle of operation is based on the law of gravity, so you don't have to install beacons and level the solution according to them. It is worth remembering that this solution is self-leveling, and not self-spreading, therefore, after pouring it onto the floor, you need smooth with a wide trowel or a needle roller. It is better to immediately fill the entire floor in the room, but if its area is large, but the solution is applied in strips, acting very quickly and not allowing the edge of the strip to dry out. In this case, only professionals can achieve a perfectly flat surface.

    The curing speed depends on the room temperature, humidity and layer thickness. On average, after 6-12 hours you can move on the surface, and after 3-4 days - mount the topcoat.

    No. 4. Leveling with gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

    Leveling with GVL is called a dry screed. This process is much simpler and faster, but the quality of the finished screed is inferior to the monolithic one. A layer of expanded clay is laid under the GVL, which plays. The technology allows the use of other materials that have similar thermal insulation properties.

    Alignment of GVL begins with surface cleaning from dust and dirt, after which a waterproofing material is laid on it, which can be a plastic film. Its strips are stacked with an overlap of about 10-15 cm on top of each other and with a 10 cm approach to the walls. It is better to use an edging tape around the perimeter of the room, which is located between the plastic wrap and the expanded clay layer.


    Expanded clay must be carefully tamped and leveled
    at the target level. The first plate is mounted in the closest

    Attractiveness floor covering depends on whether irregularities and other defects remain on the base or not. If its surface is not perfectly smooth, then the floor covering will reflect all the flaws in the base: potholes, drops, roughness and other imperfections. Therefore, before laying the topcoat, it is necessary to make the base even and smooth. Today we will talk about the technology of leveling the concrete floor in the apartment.

    Floor leveling methods

    There are several ways to level the floor:

    • using cement or concrete screed;
    • using self-leveling mixtures (self-leveling floor);
    • leveling the floor with plywood.
    • Remove debris from the base.
    • Fill cracks and crevices.
    • Prime the surface. The primer helps the self-leveling compound adhere better to the surface and spread more evenly over the floor.
    • Mix the solution according to the instructions, pouring the dry mixture into the water, and not vice versa, so that there are no lumps.

    The solution retains its fluidity for half an hour. If the solution begins to harden, then it is no longer suitable for leveling the base, and water cannot be added to the finished mixture.

    These include:

      Hydro level - helps to determine the unevenness of the base in large rooms. Measurement is made according to the water level in it. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the working tube of the device is not filled with air, which will impair its operation. With the help of the hydro level, you can accurately measure with only small errors.


      Laser level
      - accurate and easy to use. The error is small, only 1-2mm / m. The laser level is harmful to the eyes, so wear safety glasses before using it.

      Level- is used by construction professionals because this surveying tool requires knowledge and skills in its use.

      Today we talked about the technologies for leveling the floor in the apartment, about the devices and tools needed to measure the curvature of the floor. Which technology you use will depend on the conditions, on the flaws, irregularities of your base. We hope that a smooth and beautiful floor will delight you for a long time, attracting the attention of friends and acquaintances, causing their admiring glances.

    An overhaul of an apartment is unthinkable without leveling the floor, since it is never perfectly smooth, and in some cases even has a slope. The rough surface does not allow laying the floor covering, which is very demanding on the quality of the base, and due to the slope, there may be problems with installing doors and even furniture. That's why start off renovation work best of all with leveling the floor, especially since sometimes this process can be lengthy and rather messy.

    Today there are several ways to make the floor even. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, so the choice will depend on the initial condition of the surface, as well as the wishes and financial capabilities of the developer.

    Regardless of the selected alignment method, you will need preparatory work which are the same in almost all cases.

    1. First you need to prepare the surface: remove the old coating, rub deep cracks. If there are delaminations and some point protrusions, then knock them down with a puncher. After that, remove all debris and dust, and, if necessary, degrease, since any foreign particles and stains can prevent the solution from adhering to the base.
    2. The next step is to waterproof the surface. The floors in rooms where the risk of leakage is high (bathroom, toilet, kitchen) is completely insulated, creating a kind of waterproof bowl into which the screed is poured, and in ordinary living rooms it will be enough to process the joints of the base plates, the junction of the floor and walls, and space under the pipes.

      True, some masters still advise covering the entire floor with a film (at least 100 microns thick) - this will not damage the screed. The insulation level is always made higher than the surface to be erected - after laying it, the remnants of roll or film materials are carefully cut off.

    3. Laying a damper tape around the perimeter of the room. This is a kind of shock absorber for monolithic screeds, which can expand with temperature changes. If a dry screed was used, then the tape will prevent the appearance of sounds arising from the contact of the coating slabs with the walls.
    4. Search for the zero level, that is, the height of the future floor. To do this, you will need to find the highest point of the surface, add to it the minimum screed thickness, depending on the chosen method, and project the resulting height onto the walls in the form of a control line. Check its horizontality with a level.

    After that, it is required to check whether, due to the raising of the floor, difficulties will arise when opening the balcony and room doors do not have to raise the battery higher. Such nuances should be considered before starting alignment work.

    Method 1: using a solution-level

    Features of the method

    This is the easiest floor leveling option. The bottom line is that a ready-made solution of sand, cement and special plasticizing additives is diluted with water, and the floor is poured with it. Due to the property of the liquid to spread evenly, the finished surface is ideally smooth.

    When applied

    Unfortunately, this method is only suitable for smoothing out small roughness. If the surface of the base has significant irregularities and, in addition, a slope, which together creates a height difference of more than 3 cm, then the use of a leveling solution will have to be abandoned: it will dry out unevenly, and this will lead to cracking. True, it can be poured over the finished concrete screed - such a final touch before laying the topcoat will make the subfloor even.

    Stages of work


    self-leveling floor

    Method 2: concrete or sand-cement screed

    Features of the method

    This method involves leveling the floor with concrete or cement mortar... Allows you to get a monolithic, strong and even screed that can hide even significant floor defects.

    When applied

    If the difference in heights, taking into account the slope and roughness, does not allow the use of a self-leveling floor, then such a screed would be the best option. It is strong, durable and, if done correctly, will last a long time. However, there are a number of cases when it is better to refuse it:

    • the thickness of the screed is more than 10 cm. Concrete is heavy, therefore it will create a significant load on the floor;
    • the desire to place additional communications under the floor level;
    • time limits. If a flat floor is needed urgently, then a long-drying concrete screed will not work.

    Stages of work

    1. Substrate preparation, waterproofing, zero level finding... A primer will not hurt either.
    2. Exposing lighthouses, which would allow you to check with the zero level at any point in space. For this, slats or a metal profile are used. They are stacked along the walls with a distance of about 20-30 cm from them. This is a margin for the rule. The distance between adjacent beacons should be such that the ends of the rule lay down calmly on them. When installing beacons, you need to check the level, placing a solution every 20-30 cm. At the end of the work, strictly horizontal guides should be obtained. When the mortar has set, you can start laying the screed.
    3. Preparation of the solution. This is a very crucial moment, because mistakes can lead to damage to the coating. If there is no experience in preparing a cement-sand mixture, it is better to use purchased materials. Accurate adherence to the instructions will avoid mistakes. In the same case, when there is experience in such work, you can prepare the solution with your own hands.
    4. Laying the mortar. It is laid out in strips along the lighthouses, with shaking movements to get rid of the air, and smoothed out with a rule. A screed in one room must be done at a time so that it is monolithic.
    5. Drying of the screed takes place in a closed room, where there are no drafts. After two days, when the solution hardens, you need remove beacons and heal dents from them, and then moisten the surface or cover with cellophane for two weeks to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture. This can lead to cracking. After the specified time has elapsed, remove the cellophane and leave for another two weeks so that the screed is completely dry and gain strength.

    Method 3: leveling with expanded clay

    Features of the method

    Light bulk material is used for it, most often expanded clay. Even deep holes and steep inclines can be smoothed out.

    When applied

    There are several ways to level the floor with expanded clay, but they are all used when it is necessary to remove significant irregularities. If the height difference is more than 10 cm, the concrete screed will turn out to be very heavy, which will create a load on the floor slabs. It will dry unevenly, in pits for longer than in shallow places, which will lead to cracks. More expedient in such cases is the use of expanded clay.

    Stages of work

    1. All preliminary steps: preparation of the base, waterproofing, laying a damper tape, finding the zero level. In this case, it will be quite high, since the thickness of the backfill layer must be added to the height difference, and it is not less than 3-4 cm.
    2. Installation of beacons.
    3. Preparation of expanded clay. You need to mix two fractions: medium and small. The medium one is needed to reduce the weight of the finished screed, and the small one is needed to compact it.
    1. Expanded clay is leveled along the lighthouses, rammed, and sheets of various flooring materials are laid on top. It can be gypsum fiber board, chipboard, fiberboard and similar things. They are stacked side by side according to the principle brickwork so that the cross seams of one row do not line up with the other. On top of the first layer, the second is laid, which is attached to the lower one with self-tapping screws.
    2. Expanded clay is poured onto the floor, leveled along the lighthouses, not reaching their top 2–2.5 cm, rammed and poured with cement "milk", that is, a mixture of water and cement. This will give strength to the expanded clay pillow. In a day, when the composition hardens, you can spread the mortar for an ordinary concrete screed over it, leveling it now along the tops of the lighthouses. Or you can remove the lighthouses, wait until it dries completely, cover the expanded clay with a waterproofing film and fill it with a leveling agent.
    3. Preparation of expanded clay concrete leveling mixture. For this, cement, sand and expanded clay are combined with water, and the finished mass is laid out on

      Aligning the wooden floor on the joists

      Features of the method

      With such an alignment, a so-called raised floor is created, that is, the coating is mounted on logs of wooden beams... The coating is able to mask significant irregularities and remove the slope, but it must be borne in mind that the floor will rise significantly. To find the zero level, you need to add the thickness of the bar and two sheets of top coating to the highest point.

      This method is quite time consuming, even compared to leveling the screed along the beacons, but it is not so dirty and very fast, since you do not have to wait for the cement to dry.

      When applied

      The method is most suitable for private houses, as well as for apartments on the ground floor, since the space between the logs can be filled with heat-insulating material. The option is also suitable for those who want to place any additional communications under the floor.

      Stages of work


      Leveling the floor in an apartment is an important part of renovation. At first glance, this process may seem rather complicated and time-consuming, but with strict adherence to all stages, the use of reliable tools and high-quality materials, it will be up to anyone who is ready to do all the work on their own.

    A leveled floor can transform any apartment, making it more modern and comfortable. You can think about leveling the floor covering by deciding to lay laminate, linoleum, carpet or tiles. These materials require the subfloor to be in perfect condition. No matter how frightening newcomers to the repair business are with this procedure, everyone can level the floor in almost any way possible. The main thing is strict adherence to instructions, accuracy and patience.

    There are many methods for correcting flooring, including: installing a dry or wet screed, using a self-leveling mixture, constructing a wooden covering on logs, etc. The choice of the method of carrying out the work depends on several factors:

    • the level of defectiveness of the floor covering;
    • base material;
    • ceiling heights (ie how many cm you can "steal" without making the room uncomfortable).

    The floor is considered to be practically level if, when measuring its surface with a level, you get fluctuations in the surface height of up to 5 mm. In such cases, you can sleep well, your floor is almost perfect, the only thing that makes sense to apply is acrylic sealant.

    When the errors of the main coating are small (up to 3 cm) or there are separate grooves in concrete field, a self-leveling mixture is used. For unevenness 2-6 cm the best way- wet screed or covering the logs. On modern market you will meet a wide range of building materials, so you can get everything you need without any problems.

    Regardless of the rough flooring and the remedial method chosen, the first thing to do is determine how uneven your floor is. For this you need a level, preferably a laser level.

    Measure the deviation of the floor from the horizon at the corners and in the middle of the room, record the readings. Then mark the zero line of the future flooring: draw it along all the walls of the room or stretch a thread along the room. In the second case, be careful, the rope should be stretched very tightly, because if it sags somewhere, the line will already be uneven.

    Next, you need to install beacons. For this purpose, you can use drywall guides or metal profiles, which are laid with sharp edges up. Beacons are laid out on the floor covering in increments of 0.5-0.8 m. They must be installed along the zero line, for this, an even thin plywood or board is placed on the guides. Now, to check if the beacons are really standing correctly, place a level on the plywood.

    Also, all ends of the plywood must be aligned with the zero line. To align the guides, you can place pieces of drywall, plywood, or planks under them. Then the beacons can be screwed to the floor with self-tapping screws using a hammer drill.

    There are three main methods to make the concrete pavement even: dry screed, grouting or self-leveling mortar. But first of all, you need to prepare a rough base:

    • clean the floor surface from debris and dust;
    • remove large detachments;
    • be sure to prime the rough surface;
    • seal cracks, pits and other defects with a dry mixture.

    This method allows you to level a concrete base with irregularities up to 6 cm, and prepare it for linoleum, laminate or tile laying.

    Device wet screed- the process is complex and time consuming. The main stages of work are described below.

    This method is used only with errors in the level of the concrete or wooden floor up to 3 cm. The self-leveling mixture allows you to quickly and easily make the coating perfectly smooth. This solution is made from dry powder, which is sold in packs of 25 kg. The mixture is diluted with water, the amount of which is indicated on the pack by a specific manufacturer.

    Please note that the ready-made solution must be applied within 15-60 minutes, depending on the brand of the mixture.

    The floor hardens in 30 minutes, and complete drying takes place within 72 hours, unlike concrete, which cannot be walked on for another 3 weeks.

    To prepare the wood flooring, hammer in any loose boards, sand the floor and coat any cracks with a thickly mixed mixture. Then treat the base with a waterproof primer.

    In order for the fill to be of high quality, it is necessary to take into account some peculiarities.

    1. The solution must be mixed strictly according to the instructions, its temperature must be above 10 degrees.
    2. The mixture should be diluted immediately before pouring, while be sure to calculate the hardening time of the solution.
    3. Prepare water in advance and keep it handy, as the liquid is added gradually and the mixture thickens very quickly.
    4. For leveling the floor in a room with large area you should divide the room into squares.
    5. The self-leveling mortar is prepared using a mixer.
    6. The finished solution is poured onto the floor in small portions and leveled with a rule. These steps must be done at the same time, so you will need outside help.
    7. During operation and until the mixture is completely dry, there must be a stable temperature in the room (above 5 degrees). Also, make sure that there are no drafts in the room, otherwise the self-leveling floor may crack.
    8. Further repair work can only be carried out 3-4 days after the floor correction with self-leveling liquid.
    9. After applying this method, the floor will "rise" by 2-3 cm.

    The described method is one of the simplest and fastest, but its significant disadvantage is the rather high price.

    You can level the wooden floor, depending on its condition, by repairing or cycling the old coating, as well as using plywood sheets, putty, self-leveling mixture.

    First of all, you need to determine how solid your floor is. To do this, remove one board and examine its back and lag. In cases where the board begins to rot or is damaged by insects, you will have to replace the damaged panels or move the floor again. If the board is dry, such drastic measures are not needed. Next, you should measure the degree of deviation of the surface from the horizon line.

    If you decide to renovate an old floor, the first thing to do is to dismantle it. Lags, if they are not strong enough, must be strengthened with bars. Defective boards are replaced with new, solid ones - they are turned over with the not overwritten side up. Then the floor is cycled.

    The problem is that sometimes it is very difficult to dismantle the old cover. Especially, the owners of "Khrushchev" houses often face such a problem. In such cases, the floor is not disassembled, but its individual elements change, the loose boards are simply nailed.

    Looping

    To use this method, you need a scraper. When working, be sure to wear headphones, a respirator and heavy gloves.

    1. Free the room where the work will take place from all interior items, including curtains, carpets, paintings.
    2. Remove buttons and nails driven into the floor that could damage the clipper.
    3. Start looping from the corner, while moving in a snake.
    4. After removing the first layer, you need to putty all the grooves and cracks. The second scraping is carried out after the putty has completely dried. Places where it is difficult to get close with a typewriter are manually processed.

    Dry screed for leveling wood or concrete substrates

    This method is suitable for leveling concrete and wooden surfaces with a strong deviation from the horizon. At the same time, it is much simpler than pouring a rough base with a cement-sand mixture, since it does not require the installation of fittings, preparation of a solution and waiting for the surface to dry out.

    A dry screed is also used in cases where there is a need to hide communications in the floor. In addition, the granular material is also a heat insulator. A dry screed is easy enough to make for one person, even without experience in repair work.

    As a dry bulk material, you can take sand or expanded clay.

    For work you will need: a shovel, as a rule, a level, a screwdriver, a jigsaw, a knife, a pencil, a tape measure, wooden plank for compacting bulk material.

    Stages of work

    1. On a clean and dry subfloor, a waterproofing layer is laid with an overlap on the walls to the zero level, and fixed there with adhesive tape. For this purpose, plastic wrap, swollen polyethylene are suitable. If the base is wooden, it is better to use parchment or roofing felt. In cases where one sheet of material is not enough to cover the entire surface, the stripes overlap each other (20-30 cm) and are glued together with tape.
    2. Expanded clay or sand is poured onto the insulation layer, while the minimum thickness of the dry screed is 5 cm.
    3. Then the granulated mixture must be tamped with a long board.
    4. Level the screed by placing the rule on the guide profile or board, and removing excess dry material.
    5. Lay on an even layer of expanded clay GVL sheets or chipboard.

    Correcting wood or concrete with plywood

    This is the simplest and affordable way level the concrete or old wood floor without removing the old coating.

    To cover concrete with plywood, you should make sure that the humidity in the room does not exceed the norm. To do this, attach a piece of plastic wrap to the slab for 72 hours. If after a specified period of time condensation does not appear on the inside of the polyethylene, you can safely level the concrete cover with plywood.

    It is possible to directly lay this material on a concrete or wooden floor if the level of unevenness is less than 1 cm.

    Plywood must first be impregnated with an antiseptic and cut into squares of a convenient size. If you notice that one of the sheets of material is delaminating, it must be replaced.

    The concrete is prepared as described above, then covered with a layer of waterproofing, it is advisable to use inflated polyethylene, which also acts as a shock absorber.

    The wooden base must be cleaned of debris and dust. In such cases, vapor barrier is not used, so as not to accelerate the process of decay of the subfloor. If a board is loose or stuck together, nail it in. Then the surface must be primed and putty with acrylic sealant.

    After thorough preparation of the rough covering, it is possible to proceed with the installation of plywood with a thickness of more than 1.5 cm. Plywood sheets are screwed to the wooden base.

    Such material is attached to concrete with dowels using a perforator or fixed with special adhesive mastic. The adhesive is applied to the concrete with a notched trowel. Then the flooring can be laid on the plywood.

    Another option for installing plywood is used when the height of the coating fluctuates even more than 5 cm. In such cases, logs are constructed on which plywood sheets are fixed.

    Lags are dry wooden blocks, which must be impregnated with a special anti-rotting liquid before installation. They are laid perpendicular to the window opening at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. In places of irregularities, pieces of wood are placed under the bars. Be sure to lay linoleum or polyethylene foam between them. The logs must be laid, retreating 2 cm from the walls, so that the floor does not deform in the future.

    If you have a concrete floor, don't forget to waterproof before creating the structure.

    The free space can be filled with thermal insulation: basalt insulation or mineral wool... Although an air cushion itself is a way of insulating the floor. Plywood sheets are screwed to the logs from above.

    As you can see, there are many ways to level the floor available to the general public. Choose the one that suits you best and you can transgress.

    Video - How to level the floor with your own hands

    Any self-respecting owner will make every effort to have a laminate floor in his house, moreover, he will try to do it with his own hands. This flooring is an excellent material and the ease of installation does not affect the quality in any way. Such a floor with correct installation on a perfectly flat rough surface will last as long as possible.

    Preparation of floors for laminate

    It's no secret that even new homes have irregularities. And if the house has been repaired more than once, then the mistakes of the previous builders will definitely affect when the laminate is installed. Of course, you can pay the construction foremen to agree to level the concrete pavement screed and lay the laminate themselves, but it is better to understand the technology yourself and to carry out the alignment in your home without any problems.

    Why do you need a flat floor when installing laminate

    Any irregularities will negate all the work done, and also lead to additional costs. With a height difference of more than 2 millimeters per square meter the panels will move relative to each other. Lock connections will begin to burst in places of drops, the laminate will disperse into separate pieces and deform. It is better to immediately carry out the screed with high quality and level the coating, otherwise you will have to buy the material again and carry out all the work again. Therefore, absolutely any surface can and must be leveled before installing the floor covering. Try to be serious enough about choosing a laminate, because its service life depends on quality and class. But you should not immediately acquire the most expensive material, because the presence of an expensive price tag does not guarantee that the laminate will be High Quality... Leveling the floor in the home renovation process is always a challenge for beginners.


    In reality, the procedure is performed quite simply and quickly, although for people far from construction and repair, the technology may seem unrealistically difficult to do it yourself. Several types of technologies are used to level uneven surfaces. And if everything is done correctly, the result will be a flat surface, perfectly suitable for further laying the laminate.

    Surface preparation for leveling

    Any finishing work should always start by cleaning up debris. Also here. All construction waste and any other dirt should be removed, for which a vacuum cleaner is best suited. All deep cracks and irregularities are covered with putty. Next, you need to measure the unevenness of the floor. The highest point and pits are revealed. This is where a laser level comes in handy. If there is only one unevenness in the form of an elevation, then it is much easier to remove it with a grinding tool. In case of multiple irregularities, beacons are displayed. For their installation, screws or cement mortar are suitable. Laser level"zero" is determined, the following are set and set at a distance of 50-90 centimeters (depending on the length of the rule) from each other and 20-30 centimeters from the walls. Alignment is a rather complicated procedure if you do the work yourself alone. It is advisable to hire a couple of people to carry out the flooding work.

    Floor screed for laminate

    We make the screed with cement mortar

    In this way, it is customary to remove large irregularities. First, the slats are set at the desired level. For lighthouses, both a metal profile and a regular wooden flat bar are used. Lighthouses are set up at a distance of about one meter from each other. Here you need to consider the length of the rule. If the length of the instrument is one meter, then the distance between the beacons should be 80 centimeters, 20 centimeters less than the length of the rule. If the distance is large, the tool will often bounce off the staff and leave furrows in the solution when leveling. Next, the ready-made solution of concrete material is poured onto the surface, and according to the lighthouses, it is leveled as a rule. After a couple of days, when the solution has set, you can take out the beacons, and cover the formed indentations. Unfortunately, a concrete mortar screed takes a very long time to gain strength: it will be possible to lay the laminate only in a month. You will also have to lay waterproofing before pouring, especially if the living space is not on the first floor. Otherwise, excess moisture will show through on the ceiling one floor below.


    Using a leveling mass

    This technology is similar to the one described above, but it will cost many times more. The composition is a specially balanced and selected mixture. It is diluted to a liquid state and, under the influence of gravity, spreads over the entire floor area, forming a perfectly flat surface. If you decide to do the work with your own hands, remember: such a solution must be used within 15 minutes, otherwise it will set and become unusable. In this way, the leveling of the surface is carried out, the height differences of which are not more than 3 centimeters. This mixture can be used to create warm floors. Due to its high strength, the material retains its properties well when high humidity in room. Before starting work, you need to prepare the room, remove garbage and unnecessary items. It is advisable to try to align as much as possible old surface by any possible means at hand. Indeed, with large differences, more material will be required, and, as you know, it is quite expensive. Mixing of the solution is carried out in a sufficiently large container using a conventional construction mixer.

    Pouring the mixture must be carried out in strips, moving from the far wall to the exit. Spilled mortar should be immediately smoothed with a spatula or squeegee, and then the surface should be rolled with a needle roller. It is advisable, although difficult, to do all the work in one step. A team of three people is suitable for this, among whom responsibilities are distributed. In a too large room, the area is divided by partitions and filled in parts. The minimum thickness of the fill is from 5 to 20 millimeters, with a thickness of 10 millimeters, reinforcement with a special mesh is carried out. The composition will harden in a couple of hours, but for a greater guarantee, it is better to let the mixture stand for 6 hours until it sets completely. The result will be an absolutely flat surface, and it will be possible to lay the laminate without any problems.

    This method is the most fast way leveling, since dry material is used, and there is no need to wait for drying and setting. You can level the surface in one day and assemble the laminate floor with your own hands. The main component of the screed is a dry mix, on top of which special sheets are placed to ensure a smooth surface.


    Dry floor screed

    This method of repair has many advantages, among which it is worth noting strength, low cost, heat and sound insulation, quick installation and ease of installation. There is also no need to work with wet materials. If electrical wiring is stretched across the floor, or repairs are carried out in the winter as soon as possible, then a dry screed is simply necessary. The materials used for backfill are varied. Artificial or natural sand, expanded clay or silicate slag are used. These substances have a fairly high strength, fire resistance, flowability and water resistance. The filled layer is about 5 centimeters, after which it is covered with sheets. Sheets are made of gypsum fiber board, chipboard, chipboard and other materials. The most popular slabs are gypsum, they have soundproof and fireproof properties, do not deform, are not afraid of water. Before backfilling, the rough surface must be clean and dry, free of dirt and dust, all cracks must be removed. To begin with, the old floor is insulated from moisture with a film or other material. Along the perimeter of the walls, the film should protrude 15-20 centimeters.


    Leveling the floor with cement-bonded particleboards

    In a circle, using double-sided tape, the edge tape is glued on top of the insulation. Its height should not be less than the level of bulk material. The tape is designed to exclude deformation from exposure to high or low temperatures... The next step is backfilling of dry material, and, if necessary, thermal insulation is installed. With the help of the rule, the embankment is equal over the entire area of ​​the room. To do this, two metal profiles are installed at the level and, as a rule, like on rails, the embankment stretches towards itself, thus removing the excess.


    Options for leveling floors for laying laminate

    The beacons are rearranged and the operation is repeated until the whole room is level. Plaster boards are laid in 2-3 layers. They have locks, so they fit quickly, easily and reliably. For greater strength, the joints are glued and fixed with screws. Before laying the second layer, the first one must be thoroughly covered with glue. The second and subsequent layers are installed in the same way as the first. With a knife, the excess insulation or tape sticking out along the edges is cut off, and the remaining gaps are covered with putty. You can continue the rest of the work the next day.


    Plaster boards for leveling floors

    This technology is ideal for leveling old wood flooring, however, this leveling is used in other cases. If the unevenness of the old floor is not more than 2 centimeters, then the use of wooden beams is not necessary for leveling. Plywood sheets are immediately installed on the old base. When leveling in this way, the plywood slabs are laid in two layers, so it is better to immediately stock up on a sufficient amount of material. Logs are made from larch or coniferous forest of grades 2 or 3. They reach 80-100 millimeters in width and at least 40 millimeters in thickness. On a concrete or other base, the logs are fixed with special screws every 40-50 centimeters.


    Plywood floor leveling

    In living rooms, they are laid across the light falling from the windows. This forms the sub-floor level and determines the height. A significant plus of this method is that it is possible to install thermal and sound insulation between the lags. Along the entire length, logs are installed in several places small size wooden blocks, under which pieces of linoleum or roofing material are placed. This creates a fairly flat plane. Plywood sheets are stacked in two layers on beams adjusted in height. The plywood itself is attached to the beams using self-tapping screws with a step of 5-10 centimeters, all joints are glued with PVA glue. With an offset or perpendicular to the first, the second layer is mounted. In any case, there will be small gaps between the sheets after installation, and they need to be putty. Before installing such a screed, all wood material must be treated with an antiseptic solution.