What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Do-it-yourself installation of windows will save up to 50% of the money that would have been spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything right, otherwise the savings will be questionable. For wooden houses, there are some peculiarities that you should be aware of.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

It is advisable to adequately assess your strength in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

- absence of casing - a house made of timber "walks" during shrinkage and begins to put pressure on the window frames;

- the use of polyurethane foam in the shrinkage gap between the apex in the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very tough and will transmit pressure from upper bars on the window frame, negating the function of the casing;

- incorrect calculation of the size of the frame of a plastic window - not taking into account the mounting gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

- too large a gap between the frame and the wall - with simple foaming of such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
- lack of external protection of the mounting gap - foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, from the outside it is better to close the gap with PSUL tape, which protects the foam from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

- lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in the insulating properties;

- placement of a window in the "cold zone" - is the cause of freezing of slopes and the formation of condensate on the inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save money and order the installation of windows. For an experienced builder, do-it-yourself installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that PVC window manufacturers don't talk about

Tightness and high noise insulation plastic double-glazed windows served as an undoubted advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in the living quarters is constantly increasing, and thanks to the leaking wooden frames, a constant flow of fresh air is ensured. Of course, too large gaps can strongly cool out the house, so euro windows have long been a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One of the options is to make forced ventilation. But in the absence of vents, this can be problematic - a lot of redoing will have to be done.

It was for such cases that window supply valves were invented - special profiles that are installed on plastic windows... What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and screw the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for the owners wooden houses- Firms that install plastic windows often do not give a guarantee for their work, motivating this with the unpredictability of the behavior of the tree. So even with the observance of all the installation rules, you can find that after a few years the windows stopped opening. And it will not work to sharpen the plastic with a file.

Manufacturing of casing (okosyachki)

The first thing to start with the installation of windows is from the installation of the casing. But is it always needed and how to do it correctly?

When you can do without a window

A new wooden house made of logs or beams will shrink in any case. And the seasonal heaving of the soil has not been canceled. In this case, the shedding is mandatory - it will protect the window from distortions, twisting or bending.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - a 50 mm thick edged board and a 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm edged bar. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in frame house You don't have to do the jar - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. In a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, some builders also do not mount the casing, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind in your home, it is better to do it, this process is not so complicated.

How to make casing correctly

The last option is the most time consuming, but also the most reliable. If there are doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to casing in a foundation block. For this:

- In the window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical grooves with a size of 5x5 cm are selected. This can be done both with a chainsaw and a hand-held circular saw, a chisel and an ax. The second option is preferable if the hand is not full for precise work with a chainsaw.

- On top of the mortgage bar is laid edged board and is flush-mounted with self-tapping screws - two at the top and two at the bottom. For this, a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the screw cap is pre-drilled.
- If the casing option "spike-monolith" is chosen, then the previously sawn T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and is also screwed in with self-tapping screws.
- Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the top 5 cm thick laid on them is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrinkage gap.
- The vertex should enter the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in the horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle.
- Insulation is placed in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. In no case should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-proof films - the accumulated condensate will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how the siege is done "in the deck":

When the window is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows itself is not very difficult, but it requires strict adherence to the technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense and the frame will warp.

Inspection of the delivered insulating glass unit

In no case should you neglect this moment! First, the dimensions of the window opening and the glass unit are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a support profile (sweet clover) of 3 cm.Thus, the gap from above will turn out to be 1 cm. he needs to leave space when calculating the window. It is needed so that the window sill can be installed from the inside, and the low tide can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, it is imperative to check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often "lost", as windows are carried without them. But the pins are special fasteners, you need to select it yourself.

Their length should be such that, when fully screwed in, they reach only to the middle of the casing plate. And this is taking into account the gap. If you screw the dowel into the wall wooden house, the window will begin to deform regardless of the presence of a window.

Often they do not pay attention to small elements - decorative trim fittings and drainage holes. They will also have to be counted. But the window sill and ebb tide must be ordered - forgetting to clarify their need, you may find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glasses themselves - their presence can be seen only by disassembling the glass unit.

They may not be included in the package, so it is better to order them in advance. The wedges are convenient because, due to their different sizes, you can set the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the required thickness under the corners and posts.

Dismantling and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished insulating glass unit is brought in assembled form. But in order to install it, you will have to disassemble everything to the frame. For this:

- in a closed form, the upper pins holding the swinging sash are removed with a special key;
- the window handle is inserted, the sash opens and is removed from the lower mounts;
- the glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and the double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and an ordinary knife;
- you need to remember or designate the right and left glazing beads;
- the protective film is removed from the outside - under the influence of the sun, it will not come off in a few months;
- external elements are mounted - holders of mosquito nets and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
- holes are drilled for pins - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

As soon as the preliminary preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation.

Frame installation and assembly of plastic windows

At first, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, temporary jibs nailed from the outside. But it's much easier to do everything with an assistant - he just holds the frame until it is level and bolted to the casing. The installation of the frame also requires adherence to the correct sequence:

1. The bottom edge is aligned to the level - laser level in this regard, it is more convenient. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack so as to achieve a perfectly level position. Even minimal misalignment will create operational problems.
2. Side braces are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally "falls out" of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that you need to install it in a "warm" zone - for wooden walls without external insulation, it is clearly in the middle.
2. Once the frame is level, you can start fixing it, starting with the side posts. First, holes are drilled in the tree through those already made in the frame, and then the dowels are nailed. First, the top and bottom, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
3. Once the frame is fixed, the ebb is attached to the outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The ebb is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and under it the gap is filled with foam.

1. Decorative overlays are put on the sash fasteners. The lower ones are worn on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

1. Double-glazed windows are installed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the support against the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

1. The assembly seam is foamed around the perimeter.
2. A window sill is being installed. To do this, a ready-made window sill is placed on the window sill, wedges are placed under it for leveling. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are coated with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. The window sill is put again, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

In some cases, they do the opposite - first they install the window sill, adjust it to the level and screw it with pins to the casing. And only then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, it is no longer necessary to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the material of the window sill must withstand the action of the external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb tide from the outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.

As soon as the polyurethane foam has frozen, you can start finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option that even girls can handle is to close them. plastic panels... For this you will need:

L-shaped or starter profile - it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
decorative plastic corner - it covers the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed on with self-tapping screws;
the plastic lining itself for the slopes.

And you don't even need to foame anything. But in order to provide the necessary protection for the assembly seam and good insulation, it is necessary to lay insulation between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. From the outside, the seam is closed with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And for the windows to please with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect polyurethane foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being pulled away by birds. You do not need to restrain your soul impulses if you want to start doing something with your own hands. And everything will definitely work out!

It is known that wooden windows in houses built from timber are rightfully considered the safest and most practical solution, favorably affecting the microclimate in the dwelling.

Fundamental in the presented case is that when it shrinks window system and the walls behave monotonously. The decisive role here is played by their installation according to technology.

Features of installing windows in a wooden house

The assembly of windows in a timber structure has certain features. As you know, wood shrinks. In houses made of chopped logs or during the first 5 years, shrinkage is about 10-13% of the height of the building, while shrinkage is no more than 2%.

If there is a warping of window structures, the formation of inter-crown gaps in the walls or cracking of a glass unit, this indicates a violation of the technology during the installation process.

In houses made of chopped wood, rounded logs, planed or profiled timber, it is advisable to install the window support after shrinkage of the house (not earlier than 1.5 years after construction).
The installation of windows after the construction of a log house is not rational due to the lack of the possibility of calculating the shrinkage of the walls. This indicator depends on the moisture content of the timber.
In houses made of laminated veneer lumber, the installation of windows is allowed immediately after erection of walls and installation of the roof of the house.
The installation of windows must be carried out exclusively by means of sliding joints - support bars and casing. It is strictly forbidden to strap window blocks and the structure of the window to logs or beams. Tight fastening during shrinkage leads to a violation of the integrity of the window modules and walls of the building. In fact, the window system has to be balanced separately with respect to the wall.
In the upper part above the window frames, it is necessary to provide for a shrinkage margin - gaps of 6-7 cm. Miscalculations of spare gaps can lead to poor closing of windows or gaps in the walls.

Installation diagram of wooden windows

Preparation of a window opening

Before mounting the box, prepare a window opening. The opening should be rectangular without cracks, depressions, distortions and other flaws. It is necessary to remove from all its surfaces construction garbage, dirt, dust and layers.

In order to avoid distortions in the future, it is required to make accurate measurements of the external, internal and lateral sides of the opening.

In the case when the skew of the opening is significant, and it is not possible to correct it, it is recommended to expand the window parameters in such a way that highest level the outer hole exceeded the width by 2.5-4 cm, and the height by 1-2 cm.

The extension makes it possible to install an additional profile on the window. This will prevent the appearance of gaps between the box and the hole in the areas of maximum skew.

In addition to the option of expanding the size of the opening to correct the skew, there is such an option as increasing the parameters of the window frame.

Siege

A special design, which is a wooden box without a bottom crossbar, the purpose of which is to securely fasten the window and maintain the shape of the window frame, regardless of the degree of shrinkage of the house, is called a casing or jar.

There are several types of this design:

Solid. It is made from a specially processed solid material.
Sticky. The individual components are made of type-setting boards connected by means of micro-grooves and glue. All burrs and small knots are removed.
Mixed. Part of the casing is made in one piece, and the other part is made using glue. Upon completion of the installation, the window is varnished. This type is suitable for using large window sills.

The window is made according to the size of each window. Moreover, if it is planned inner lining, then the selection can be made for it. When facing on both sides, the sampling is not performed.

Casing assembly can be started after the window opening has been prepared.

Its manufacture is carried out as follows:

In the base, which is adjacent to the window hole, grooves are grinded. A bar of the same size is inserted into them, which serves as the side of the casing.
First, a bar is placed at the bottom of the opening., which will prevent the displacement of the side elements.
A sealant is placed under the timber from linseed tow.
A sealing material is placed in the grooves and mount side boards.
The final stage is fastening the top board of the structure.
Above the window, a space is left for wood shrinkage and it is filled with a sealant. So in the process of shrinking the logs, the load will not affect the window opening.

Installation of windows

The window is installed in the following sequence:

A waterproofing layer is placed on the lower part of the opening. and a sealing material.
Install the window frame and fix it with wood pads or wedges.
Using a building level or a plumb line, they adjust the horizontals and verticals. In this case, one should pay attention to the actual horizontal and vertical, and not to the sides of the window opening.
On each side of the opening, in 50 cm increments, holes are drilled.
With self-tapping screws fix the box.
Isolate the space between the box and the wall sealing material.
Next, the frame is mounted. It is installed in the grooves of the box and fixed to it with screws.
Window blocks are installed on the frame using hinges(separable and non-separable). The difference between them is the possibility of recessing the hinge. Detachable ones are convenient in areas where there is no possibility of raising the window sash. Smooth fastening of the hinges contributes to the even hanging of the window transoms. They are fastened with screws.
The sash is locked by means of a locking element or latch. After checking the opening and closing of the transom, fasten the frame using nails.
Next, proceed to the installation of window sills. They are mounted from the inside so that the side edges go into the walls by 4.5-5 cm on both sides.
Immediately before installation, using a lime-gypsum mixture, align the bottom of the window opening.
The window sill is fixed by means of wedges. After styling thermal insulation material it is finally fixed.
Installation of ebbs is carried out from the outside of the opening- over the entire width of the frame penetration into the base.
The gaps between the casing of the base and the box, as well as the upper and lateral sides of the window, are closed with a casing. It is advisable to use the same type of wood from which the house was built as platbands.
All parts of the casing are interconnected. To do this, use thorns, nails or glue solution.
Placement markup is performed beforehand fasteners (step is 10-12 cm).
So that in the process of fixing the platbands they do not move, the structure can be glued.
The final step is fixing the platbands with nails or self-tapping screws., and closing the gaps between the base and the platbands with a sealing material.

For the manufacture of casing, wood with a moisture content of at least 10% is used, otherwise, cracks form inside the structure over time.
It is strictly forbidden when making a jig. use metal fasteners.
Do not use construction foam as a sealing material for casing assembly. In this case, the wood is bonded, which prevents its natural shrinkage.
In the process of installing windows, it is important to make the holes for them correctly. The optimal distance from the window sill to the floor is 85-90 cm.
Experts do not recommend installing windows without installing a window, even if the house was built many years ago, and the frame is completely dry. This is due to the fact that throughout the entire life cycle the tree tends to shrink.
For greater efficiency and heat retention, wooden windows should be installed closer to the outside of the window opening.
It is necessary to choose hard wood as the material for the window sill. A window sill made of glued wood has the longest service life, a window sill made of solid wood has the shortest service life (as a rule, the product is warped).
The corners of the window opening should be 90 degrees and the diagonals should not differ by more than 10 mm. If the hole in the base exceeds the allowable value, more sealing material will be required. If you do not ensure that the corners are even, the box may warp.
It is important to correctly calculate the planting depth of the window in the opening so that the dew point contour equal to 10 degrees passes through its inner part. Then condensation will not form on the inside of the window.

I like

When installing windows in wooden house it is necessary to take into account some features when building a house from a bar or a log house. After construction, wooden houses shrink, for the 1st year after its installation, the frame shrinks by 3-5 cm. at the rate of 3 meters in height. This is a consequence of the drying out of the logs and the pressing of the sealing material between the crowns. That is why, when installing windows in a wooden house, you need to remember that the frame (or timber) will slowly sit down for about 5-6 years. And this is the main factor that must be taken into account when installing windows in a wooden house. In the process of further exploitation, the house "lives", that is, subject to constant movement, with high humidity, the tree swells, with high temperature and moderate humidity - dries up. When installing windows in a wooden house, a structure is used, which experts call a casing (or a window).

When installing windows in wooden houses, it is necessary to ensure that the walls of the house have the possibility of shrinkage, but at the same time it is necessary to avoid pressure on the windows themselves. Therefore, the main purpose of this structure is to firmly fasten the windows in the opening while maintaining the independence of the entire window structure from the transferred loads of the bearing walls. In other words, the shedding (or squinting) serves to exclude the pressure of the logs on the windows in the process of shrinking and moving the house.

How to do it right

To make the installation of windows in a wooden house without negative consequences, you need to properly cut out window openings in a wooden house. Most optimal distance from the floor to the window sill - 80-90 cm, so that you have the opportunity to come to the window and rest your palms on the window sill as comfortably as possible. Dining tables, desks and kitchen countertops are usually 75-85cm high, and the windowsill should be slightly higher than the countertops. It is also necessary to check that there is no curvature of the windows.

Siege

As we mentioned earlier, the cage is a structure used when installing windows in wooden houses, the purpose of which is to firmly fasten the windows and preserve the independence of the entire window structure from the load-bearing walls of a wooden house, protect them from bending during shrinkage of log cabins (beams).

The cage can be of two types: for the installation of wooden windows in wooden houses, grooves are made into which bars of the same size are inserted; To install plastic windows in wooden houses, a comb is cut out at the ends of the logs, on which a window carriage with a groove is put on.

The casing can be made by builders who are building a house.

The window opening must be properly prepared for carrying installation works on the installation of the casing, and then it will be possible to start assembling the casing. To properly install the window, the width of the opening should be 3-4cm larger than the width of the window for using insulation foam, and the height of the opening should be 6-8cm more height ordered window for installation of the window sill and the same use of foam insulation. Between the upper part of the resulting window opening and the log, you need to leave a gap of about 5 cm to allow the logs to shrink.

When installing windows, you should not drill through the frames into the casing of a wooden house, so as not to violate the tightness and thermal insulation, for these purposes it is advisable to use special fasteners - anchor plates.

Plastic windows in a wooden frame are installed according to the generally accepted technology:

mechanical fixation of the window structure in the casing is performed using screws and anchor plates;
grooves and butt holes are filled with polyurethane foam, mounting tapes are installed to protect the foam;
interior and exterior decoration with plastic slopes, ebb and sills;
adjustment and testing of all units for operability.

In conclusion, it should be noted that any construction process consists of more critical and less critical stages. Mistakes in the installation of windows do not belong to the category of irreparable, but they can cost you very dearly. Installation is carried out according to the established scheme and takes 1-2 days, while the preparatory and subsequent stages require much more time and attention. But correctly selected and installed plastic windows will save you a lot of effort and money in the future.

Wood - natural construction material, it breathes, dries and as a result can:

change the size along the fibers depending on the ambient air humidity, while practically not changing the size in length;
when dry, deform due to internal stresses.

This process is called: within a few years after construction, a house made of timber or logs settles. In the first year, the most noticeable shrinkage occurs, in the 3-5th year it can no longer be taken into account, but process is underway throughout the life of a wooden house.

By the degree of shrinkage, houses differ from each other: if the house is made of natural moisture or rounded logs will shrink 5-7%, then a house from - only 1-3%. The last option is the most stable. But there will still be shrinkage. And hardly anyone will agree to wait, even if only 3 years (for laminated veneer lumber), to put windows and doors in the house and start living there. It is important to anticipate the loss of height in advance and install windows and doors correctly. The solution to the problem is simple - installation of a window.

Although the name is unprepossessing, it will keep your house and windows intact. After all, if, during shrinkage, the logs begin to sit unevenly (the rigid construction of windows and doors will interfere with them), then the logs and timber will inevitably begin to twist. Which will ultimately lead to the curvature of the walls and the formation of cracks, which will be almost impossible to fix.

Types of window boxes

Okosyachka, shedding or window box - timber framing along the perimeter of the opening in a wooden house, which does not interfere with the vertical shrinkage of the walls. As a rule, it is made of solid wood: spruce, pine, larch or oak. The structure is fastened in a side post to the groove, without using a rigid attachment to the load-bearing walls. A gap is left at the top to compensate for shrinkage.

U-shaped window frame, or "village-style" window. Suitable for all types of houses. A spike is cut out on a bar or on a log of the house, and a groove of the appropriate size is knocked out on the bar intended for the sidewalls of the window box. The vertical movement of the frame will follow this groove, which will act as a guide rail. A jumper is installed on top - the top.

T-shaped window frame... In this case, the groove, on the contrary, is knocked out in the wall logs or in the timber, and the spike is on the sidewalls of the window. It is believed that the T-shaped box is stronger.

How to make a window opening in a wooden house

It is optimal to make a window opening from a bar of the same size and the same type as the walls. So, for a house made of a bar of 150x150 mm, they take a well-dried bar of 150x100 mm for the sidewalls, 150x50 mm for the top and a window sill as the bottom of the window box. The gap on top is clogged with tow or thin boards wrapped in tow. In the second case, as the walls descend, the boards will need to be carefully knocked out.

For cutting an opening, it is most convenient to use chain saw... Calculation of the size of the slot is not an easy task, since you need to take into account: the size of the future window, the size of the window frame parts (approximately 50-60 mm on each side), the width of the installation gap (15 mm), horizontally, the height of the shrinkage gap is additionally taken into account (30-50 mm) and the height of the window sill.

Window frame installation

Prepared parts are treated with an antiseptic before installation. The crests of the logs are lined with insulation, which is fastened with small nails or staples. Tape heaters based on tow or flax fibers are suitable. Foam must not be used as the material must be able to shrink. As additional material you can use a sealant.

First, the lower crossbar or window sill is mounted, then the side pillars of the window box. At the end, the upper jumper is inserted into the upper groove of the uprights. After collecting the box, carefully connect it with self-tapping screws. It is important that they do not fall into the logs.

Installation of windows in a log house

It has no fundamental differences.

The frame is fixed in the box using self-tapping screws and special fasteners - anchor plates. They are attached to the window frame with self-tapping screws. It is unacceptable that the self-tapping screws, passing through the window trim, enter the ends of the walls. This will interfere with shrinkage and negate all your efforts. Double-glazed windows can be mounted directly through the frame, without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes from the frame during installation.

The window is set strictly according to the level, otherwise you will not be able to open and close it in the future. The slots that are visible in the opening after installing the casing must be filled with tow or insulation.

After the installation of windows and insulation, platbands are installed.

Typical mistakes when installing windows:

Installation of windows on polyurethane foam without using a window frame.
Using a thin board for a jig.
Using screws that are too long.
Rigid fastening of the window frame bars to the wall.
The expansion gap left between the window frame and the walls is too small, which should be 1.5-2 times the calculated shrinkage height.
The window frame was put into the log house too early: the window frame can be installed no earlier than a year after the log house was installed.

The arrangement of windows during the construction of a wooden house has always been and remains one of the most responsible and difficult tasks... The specifics of installing windows in a log house is such that it is not recommended to fasten them to the walls of a log house.

Within 5-8 years, a sludge occurs in the log house, caused by the process of natural drying of wood, and the compaction of the inter-crown filling under the load of the house's own weight. Only during the first year, the shrinkage of a house can be 3-5 cm. Therefore, in the old days, our ancestors allowed a house made of wood to stand without doors and windows for at least a year until its walls subsided. And only then did they start filling the window and door openings.

Today, few agree to wait for it to settle. finished house from a log house. Therefore, the installation of windows in the frame should be carried out so that the subsidence of the house does not in any way affect the filling structures of these openings: it does not deform the glass units or jam them. This can be avoided by installing special joints of door and window frames to the frame, which do not prevent their free displacement relative to each other.

The walls of a log house and window and door frames are two independent structures, each of which works in its own way. Installation of windows in a log house requires proper preparation opening. To compensate for shrinkage wooden structures walls, window and door openings must be made with larger dimensions than the dimensions of window and door frames.

First you need to decide on the height of the window sill. As a rule, it is equal to 80-90 cm. This height is optimal in order to comfortably lean on the windowsill. The window opening is cut out about 5 cm below the estimated height of the future window sill, since the thickness of the layer of polyurethane foam is 1-2 cm, and the thickness of the window sill itself is 3-4 cm.
Next, you need to place the horizontal and vertical lines of the window opening. The building level and plumb line will help in this.
The lower line of the window opening is placed along the level, and then the upper one. In this case, the height of the window opening should be at least 14 cm larger than the window itself, since the distance from the lower edge of the window opening to the window should be left 4 cm for the window sill and foaming, on top - 2 cm for foaming, and for the shrinkage of the house - 4-5 cm ...
When marking the vertical lines of the window opening, it is also necessary to take into account that it should be at least 14 cm wider than the window itself, of which 2 cm goes for foaming, and 10 cm for the casing (okosyachka).
A window opening is cut out according to the markup.

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Siege: purpose and types

The casing is a wooden frame, for the manufacture of which 4 boards with a thickness of 60-80 mm are used. The bottom board is a window sill, the other three are slopes. In the side elements, a longitudinal slot is made with a depth of 20 mm and a width of 60 mm. This slot is necessary in order to arrange a flexible joint between the casing and the wall. It includes a ridge made at the end of the opening, or a specially made cranial bar that forms a keyway connection of the casing to the wall. This joint, when the frame collapses, makes it possible for the timber or logs to deform, thus reducing the size of the gap above the windows and moving along the groove in the casing, while not transferring the load to the double-glazed windows. A bar is attached to the lower plane of the window opening, but its functions are different - it is necessary to prevent blowing through the junction of the wall and the window sill.

All joints of planes must be sealed with insulation - tow or some other natural material... For these purposes, it is not recommended to use polyurethane foam, since in the process of subsidence of a log house, foam can come off the surface and cracks appear.

The installation of the casing begins with the installation of a level sill. After that, the side parts of the box are mounted and covered with an upper block.

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Casing installation methods

Image 1. Installation of windows in a jar using an embedded block.

Installation of windows in a jar using a foundation bar (image 1):

On both sides in the logs, a groove is cut out for bars with a section of 50x50, and the bars themselves are installed. The joints between the bars and the surface of the logs are insulated with tow or other heat-insulating material.
A U-shaped window box is mounted, the so-called jib made of boards with a section of 50x150 or 50x20 mm and is fixed in the window opening to the bar. From below, the ends of the boards are attached to the crown.
At the top, between the horizontal board and the upper part of the wall of the opening, a gap is made equal to 5-8 cm and filled with insulation (in no case do not fill it with foam).

Installation of a window into a groove in a wall made of logs (image 2):

Glued laminated timber with a section of 100x150 or 100x200 mm is used. A thorn element is made in it. A groove is cut on the side.
The side parts of the box are mounted and the joints are insulated with tow. Then they are attached to the lower rim of the frame.
A horizontal board is attached between the side elements of the bobbin.

Picture 2. Mounting the window into a groove in a wall made of logs.

Mounting the window on a spike (image 3):

A 50x50 mm spike is made in the window opening in the wall and lined with insulation. After that, the side elements are inserted with a pre-cut groove.
Further, the installation is carried out in the same way as the installation of the window into the groove. The side parts are fixed to the lower rim, and in the upper part they are expanded with a board. In this case, it is also imperative to make a thermal gap.

Installation of a window into the casing with a quarter (image 4).

This mounting option is similar to mounting in a foundation block. The difference lies in the fact that it is necessary to make parts of the window of a special shape, which are a typical window quarter and are more aesthetic for houses made of timber or logs.

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Stages of installation of wooden windows in a log house

Picture 3. Mounting the window on the thorn.

Measurements of the window opening. The dimensions of the window opening with the window must be larger than the dimensions of the windows in the walls of brick or concrete, since there is no need to install the window there. As a rule, the casing is made of a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and these dimensions should be taken into account when calculating window openings. Gaps are left between the opening and the casing: 20 mm on the sides, 70 mm or more on the top.
Casing installation.
Window installation. Fastening a wooden window to a window is carried out using self-tapping screws or using anchor plates.

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Tools and materials for the installation of wooden windows in a log house

Instruments:

router and a set of cutters;
circular saw or circular saw;
plane;
screwdriver;
hacksaw for wood;
a set of chisels;
hammer;
rasp;
mallet;
abrasive paper;
level;
roulette;
square.

Materials:

shaped board with a section of 50x125 and more - for the manufacture of a frame;
timber with a section of 50x60 and more - for sashes;
triangular and rectangular glazing beads, the height of which should be 10 - 12 mm;
two window hinges and one locking handle for one window sash;
glass 4 mm thick;
self-tapping screws for wood 4x60 mm: for a window frame - 8 pcs. for the sash - 4 pcs.;
glue for wood.