What can you cook from squid: quick and tasty

Floor in frame bath differs from the floor in the squared or log. Making it in a frame structure is usually easier and even a novice builder can handle this work.

Features of floors in wet rooms

The constant accumulation of a large amount of moisture, temperature changes negatively affect the floor in the bath. Therefore, the wood used to create flooring, should be not only durable, but also moisture resistant. Choose wood species that resist decay. The floor should be comfortable.

The manufacture of the floor in such a structure begins with the installation of the frame. Lags are pre-laid. If piles or pillars of concrete act as structural supports, then they should be fixed wooden bar large section. Lags will be attached to it, in turn.

Types of floors in the bath

Most suitable option is the installation of coniferous boards - spruce, pine. Due to the resin content in these types of wood, a better preservation of the coating is ensured. At high temperature and humidity, they release essential oils... It is not recommended to use oak for flooring in a frame bath, as its surface is very slippery.

There are two types of wooden floors that can be installed in saunas:

• leaking structure. Before you learn how to make a floor in a frame bath, it should be noted that this variety has good resistance to pollution and decay. It is designed in such a way that during operation, water is removed from the room through the cracks between the boards into the soil;
• leak-proof design. This type involves the removal of moisture through the ladders into the drainage tank, after which it is removed from the steam room through special pipes. The main advantage of the floor is the ability to install a "warm floor" system. This is true in areas with a harsh climate.

Design options for different types of foundations

Depending on the type of foundation for such a structure, they use different types gender on the following grounds:

• pile or columnar. It is most convenient to mount the floor on piles. They are not afraid of either dampness or low temperatures. This foundation can be easily repaired in the event of a sudden subsidence. To do this, it is enough to raise the corner with a jack and put a special lining on the post or pile;
• tape. Such a base is large in size. It is made to create a bath, which will have several rooms. The floor in such buildings is usually concrete. When installing, before pouring the foundation, you need to think in advance in which direction you should draw the conclusion of the water accumulating during operation and stretch the pipe for the sewage system;
• slab. This foundation is very rare. This is due to the fact that the foundation is large enough. In addition, it is much more difficult to lay communications and drain water. That being said, it is not easy to heat the sauna during the winter months. This is one of the most expensive types of foundations.

Floor arrangement instructions

The main components of the structure are logs and boards. Before starting work, you need to choose the most suitable sizes of the mentioned elements and high-quality manufacturing material. It is recommended to use high-quality boards that are three or four centimeters thick, and the logs of the final floor covering are recommended to be made from a 10x15 cm bar.

It is necessary to take a responsible attitude to the choice of material for making logs and boards. Preference should be given to hard coniferous and deciduous species. They are durable and moisture resistant. The lumber must be well dried. Otherwise, all installed elements will deform over time. All logs and boards must be smooth without defects in the form of cracks. This will save you hassle down the road.

The lags are fixed to the racks of the frame structure or stacked on the supporting pillars. First, the extreme lags are fastened. After that, the installation of intermediate lags is carried out. Fastening is carried out using metal corners.

If the length of the laid logs is more than two meters, then it is necessary to additionally fix the logs on the supports. This design will be more stable and reliable. After that, the sub-floor is laid. Boards must be laid perpendicular to the logs. When installing a pouring floor, a gap of several millimeters should be left between the boards.

After that, the logs of the finishing floor are mounted in the form of a bar with a section of 5x10 cm. A hydro-vapor barrier material is laid on top. Next, a layer of thermal insulation is laid. The insulation is covered with another layer of hydro-vapor barrier material. Only after that is the board laid. In the process, edged or grooved boards are used. The finishing deck (if it is not a leaking floor) should be installed with a slight slope in the direction of the drain.

Frame construction is rapidly gaining popularity among private developers. The advantages of this technology can be discussed almost indefinitely. A brief summary is as follows: all other things being equal, frame buildings are simpler and more financially profitable in construction compared to brick and most block buildings, while there are no complaints about quality, reliability, ease of use, safety and durability.

How to make a floor in a frame bath

A particularly well-considered technology has proven itself in the construction of baths.

An interesting fact about frame construction

Advantages frame construction

One of the most important stages in arranging a frame bath is the construction of the floor. You have already had time to familiarize yourself with information on pouring a concrete structure in the corresponding publication of our website (you can also get information about installing a drain there), so today all attention will be paid to wood floors- the presence of such in the frame construction will ensure the maximum preservation of the atmosphere of environmental friendliness and naturalness.

Step three. Waterproofing of supports

Waterproofing of supports - scheme

Next steps

Support posts are covered with expanded clay

Here the developer covered the underground space with expanded clay to the upper edges of the supports and laid logs on them. Expanded clay will take over the functions of thermal insulation.

But more often they resort to this method.

Brick supports for logs - photo and diagram

The photo shows a diagram of bricklaying with the correct dressing of the seams. Support height recommendations have been given earlier. For masonry, a standard solution is used from a share of 400 cement, about 3 shares of sand and water in the volume required to obtain a mixture of normal working density.

Maintain the thickness of the joints up to 5 mm. Apply the solution with a trowel. Check each brick in level by tapping the masonry element with a wooden hammer or a trowel handle.

Brick pillars waterproofing scheme

In this case, waterproofing is not laid on concrete supports, but on top of brickwork.

Lags are attached in the same way as in the previous case, i.e. to the vertical uprights of the frame and the embedded beam. There is no need to fix the lag to the support pillars.

Lags on support posts

Video - Lags for the floor on the ground

Laying subfloor

Laying subfloor

Boards are laid perpendicular to the logs. A 20 mm expansion gap is maintained between the flooring and the walls of the room.

The sequence of laying the floorboards is shown in the table.

Table. Plank flooring

When arranging a pouring floor, as noted, the boards are stacked with a gap of several millimeters.

Pouring floor

Useful advice! If possible, try to use high-quality level boards even for rough flooring - save yourself the hassle of leveling the lag of the finishing flooring in the future. If there are visible ridges on the deck surface, sand them.

Example of sanding a wooden floor

Laying finishing flooring

Arrangement of the second (final) tier of the floor allows, firstly, to perform hydro-thermal insulation works, and secondly, to provide an attractive appearance surface, thirdly, to achieve an even distribution of loads on the floor.

The standard layout of the finishing device is as follows.

Standard layout for finishing flooring

It would seem that all that remains is to fill the plinth around the perimeter of the room in order to hide the gaps between the flooring and the walls.

But we are in no hurry to finish, we did not take into account one very much important nuance... In accordance with the technology of arranging a leak-proof bath floor, the finishing flooring should be installed with a slope in the direction of the drain hole.

The floor in the bath must have a slope towards the drain

If the floor were leaking, all delights would be limited to the arrangement in the underground drainage pit for collecting wastewater and laying pipes in it to drain the accumulated liquid to the planned place.

With a full-fledged two-layer insulated floor structure, everything is somewhat more complicated. As a standard, the slope is maintained within 1-2 cm for each meter of the surface. How to provide it? Shorten lags? Initially lay rough flooring with a slope? Shaping the finishing boards? Too long and laborious, and such installation methods cannot be called absolutely reliable. How to solve the problem?

Previously, this method was widely used for this.

Lags on props

The technology involves fixing the logs to pre-glued / tightened props made of pieces of plywood / timber or simply pieces of timber, the height of which changes in the direction of discharge. Some developers are actively using this method at the present time, but it is, firstly, outdated, secondly, laborious, thirdly, relatively inaccurate, fourthly, not the most reliable, because it is impossible to achieve maximum rigidity of the base with such an option for the construction of the structure.

We propose to use more modern, simple and high-quality technologies that involve the use of U-shaped brackets or adjustable studs.

A 4-5 cm distance is maintained between the extreme beams and the walls, 40-60 cm between adjacent logs. Adjust the length of the log so that their edges do not reach the bath walls by 2 cm.

Important note! In the following illustrations, a concrete floor may be present. In the case of the floor of the frame bath, everything is done in the same way, but the fastening is carried out to the rough flooring.

Table. Mounting lag on U-brackets

This completes the installation of the lag for finishing flooring. The further procedure is determined by the peculiarities of the technology chosen by the developer. As a rule, first, a heater is placed in the free space of the frame, after which a floorboard is attached to the lighthouses from above with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installing lags on brackets

Video - How to make a floor in a frame bath

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Frame construction - modern technology the construction of residential and industrial structures, in the process of which inexpensive and easy-to-use materials are used. Baths from a frame, installed according to the Finnish or Canadian technology... This type of construction takes less time than when using bricks or rounded timber, and the materials used have high thermal insulation and vapor barrier characteristics. For construction using this technology, a powerful foundation is not required, and all work can be carried out independently without the involvement of specialists, due to which you can save the project budget.

The frame bath does not require shrinkage, since only light materials are used, you can put the steam room into operation the next day after the completion of all work. The only drawback of this technology is exposure to adverse climatic conditions (snow or rain), but if you take this point into account even at the design stage, problems can be avoided later. In the article, we will consider in detail all the stages of building a frame bath with our own hands.

Stage 1: Design

Frame construction is suitable for both the construction of small steam rooms on the site, and the creation of real country houses for relax. The choice of design and area depends only on the size of the site, personal budget and needs.

Before starting the main work, you should decide on the place of construction of the bath. For this, it is important to take into account the location of utilities, the relief and layout of the site, the presence of a reservoir and other water bodies nearby. In addition, it is advisable to conduct a geological analysis of the soil, since the type of the future foundation of the bath depends on this.

Finishing preparatory work you should have in your hands a drawing of a building with all the necessary elements, approximate estimate for materials for construction. If you are not sure that you can draw up a competent project on your own, it is better to turn to professionals - this will avoid serious mistakes and miscalculations in the future.

In the drawing of the bath, you need to display the organization of the chimney, ventilation and communication networks. All elements are closely related to each other, so sometimes a plan in several projections is required.

Stage 2: Foundation

Baths of small size are usually erected without any foundation, since the building is lightweight. To prolong the life of the structure, as well as to avoid dampness in it, the preparation of the base is extremely necessary. For a frame bath, powerful concrete foundations are not used; you can limit yourself to cheaper, but no less reliable analogs.

Wooden bar

Used for baths small size(3x4 or 4x4), especially if the roof and walls are planned from lightweight materials. Wooden foundation from a bar is best suited for clay soils with moderate moisture.

The slab base represents the stakes driven into the ground, on top of which the first beams for the walls are laid. All wooden elements of the base must be treated with an antiseptic, which can reduce the rate of destruction and reduce the risk of developing fungus. It is advisable to choose a coniferous timber, since due to its high resin content, it is less susceptible to decay.

Often this type of foundation is used for the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses.

Columnar

This the best option for frame construction on a site in which there are many groundwater, and the soil has a heterogeneous composition. Its construction is possible on their own... To do this, you only need a drill, prepared in advance. plastic pipes, as well as a cement-sand mixture. Algorithm for creating a columnar base:

1. It is necessary to level the area as much as possible. It is at this stage that you can order special equipment.
2. Mark the location of future pillars. For this purpose, a regular thread is used.
3. Drill holes in the ground, make waterproofing inside them.
4. Pour concrete, at the same time install pipes in each hole.
5. Fix the pipes at a distance of 20-30 cm, wait for the cement to dry. Reinforcement can be carried out at this time.
6. After the pipe has solidified, it must be poured with concrete to the end.
7. On the resulting columns, form a grillage from the processed timber.

It takes no more than 3 weeks to work with a foundation of this type. During this time, you can purchase and prepare all the material for walls and roofs.

Installation of a bar on a pole

Block

It is used for medium-sized saunas, as well as when planning the use of a heavy stove. In addition, the base of blocks is suitable for structures where a cellar or basement is planned. The block foundation is easy to install, but at the same time it has high strength, reliability and long service life. For blocks, foam concrete is usually used, but it is permissible to use bricks.

Foundation blocks FBS

A block base can be erected only in areas where the depth of soil freezing does not exceed one meter.

Pile-screw

Most the best way foundation for the construction of a bath with a volumetric area with a large number of additional rooms. It can be used on almost any type of soil with low level freezing. To create it, you will need special equipment, and at least 4 people are needed to carry out all the work. Installation of the pile-screw foundation is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Marking of places for future introduction of piles.
2. Drilling holes to the required depth. The level is determined by the results of soil analysis.
3. Installation of piles, screwing them into the ground. The technology is determined by the budget and the ability to use specialized equipment.
4. Collection and fixation of the strapping.

Types of piles for different types of foundations

As a strapping, you can use a wooden or metal bar... Working with wood is easier, since the process of installing the walls is subsequently facilitated.

Tape

The most reliable type of foundation, but its use is possible only on stable soils with a small amount of groundwater. The tape base is the most expensive, as it requires a large amount of high-quality concrete mix... Construction algorithm:

1. After preliminary marking, you need to dig a trench. Usually its width is up to 40 cm, and its depth is up to 50 cm.
2. It must be filled with sand to ground level and compacted carefully. For this purpose, sand should be poured in layers, pouring water over it to shrink.
3. Installation of formwork with a height of up to 50 cm.The width is determined by the area of ​​the house, usually 50-60 cm. The base of the formwork must be reinforced metal pipes or twigs.
4. Pouring of concrete is carried out in several approaches, so that each previous layer has time to dry out a little.
5. A waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the base. Roofing material is best suited for this purpose.

What is taken into account when strip foundation

For very large baths, it is advisable to use a prefabricated strip foundation. This is the most expensive type of base with maximum reliability and service life.

Stage 3: Laying the floor

Installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after work with the foundation only in warm regions, if a large amount of precipitation is not planned in the near future. To do this, a beam of at least 5x5 cm is attached to the lower lags.After that, processed, but not planed boards or OSB boards are applied to them to create a rough floor. Due to the large amount of water in the washing room, the process of laying the floor in it is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. A separate foundation needs to be made around the entire perimeter. to keep the floor warm even in the cold season.
2. The soil layer should be removed by 10 cm. A mixture of sand and gravel is poured into the resulting pit, thus a natural drainage system is obtained to drain water.
3. As a lag, it is best to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of up to 10 cm. They are placed directly on the foundation of the washroom and cast in concrete to reduce the risk of displacement.
4. Lay on the pipes edged board 4-5 cm thick, having previously installed rubber pads at the joints.
5. After that, the floor can be pressed with a plinth. It is not recommended to treat boards with varnish or paint.

Floor device in a frame house

In all other rooms of the bath, the floor is laid according to the traditional technology. The thickness of the roughing and finishing boards can vary from 4 to 7 cm.

Warming

After installing the subfloor, you can start insulation work. To do this, a roofing material must be laid on top of the laid boards, and then a layer of insulation, for example, mineral wool up to 10 cm thick or expanded polystyrene. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of it, for example, glassine. Only then can the floor be covered with finishing material. For this purpose, coniferous floorboards, pretreated with an antiseptic, are usually used.

Do not rush to fix the baseboards to the floor. In all rooms, except for the washing room, you need to wait until the boards are completely dry, which leads to the appearance of cracks. They will subsequently need to be eliminated. This process usually takes 4-6 months.

Stage 4: Building the walls

Installation of walls on a finished base can be carried out only after the cement has completely dried. Before that, you should make sure that the wooden frame beams are completely dry, and also pre-cover them with a layer of antiseptic. High-quality boards made of coniferous wood, linden or aspen are used as frame beams. There are two techniques for installing walls.

On the foundation

First, you need to lay the lower strapping from a strong bar with a cross section of at least 10x10 cm. Particularly carefully you need to prepare the nodal joints, for this, metal corners and long screws are used. To bottom rail did not move with the corner posts, it is recommended to pre-install steel pins immersed in the concrete of the foundation.

The base beam must fully match the thickness of the beams top strapping... Intermediate frame beams are installed along the walls, which can be attached to the floor logs using additional end bars for fastening. The distance between them varies from 40 to 60 cm, depending on the size of the insulation boards. In the places where the crossbars and windows are connected, an additional rack must be added.

Wall insulation elements

The rigidity of the structure is given by a wooden crate, which is installed both outside and inside the building, usually at the time of thermal insulation work. At each stage of working with the walls, you need to use the building level in order to eliminate the bevels that have arisen in time.

Installation of finished walls

When building a small bath, it is more convenient to build walls on the ground, and then they need to be lifted and mounted in the base. This allows you to reduce the load on the hands, in addition, you can carry out work on the installation of the foundation in parallel with the creation of the wall frame. Mounting the wall on a horizontal surface is also convenient for the construction of the second floor. The work process is identical to the technology presented above. You can familiarize yourself with the process of erecting walls in a bath made of rounded logs.

It is most convenient to construct walls on the ground when more than 2 people are involved in the construction. Otherwise, problems will arise when the frame is installed on the base.

Stage 5: Rafter system

As floor beams and rafters for a frame bath, you should use a bar with a cross section of at least 15x5 cm, previously treated with an antiseptic. They must be placed on the edge, and then fastened together with long screws and metal plates. When installing in a vertical position, it is important to fix the common screed with a ridge bar of the same section.

Beams are always released outside at a distance of 40 cm, which allows you to subsequently properly lay the roofing material. The lathing for the roof is made of boards up to 25 cm thick, laying it directly from the roof ridge.

When building a small frame bath rafter system can be collected on the ground, which is much more convenient if several people are working. As roofing material soft or metal tiles, laid on a layer of thermal insulation and a wind-moisture protection membrane, are suitable.

If an attic is planned in the bath, then the floor in it must be insulated. In addition, it is necessary to think over the ventilation system, since steam will actively accumulate in this room.

Stage 6: Cladding

Facing work is an important part of creating the exterior of the future bath. Despite the fact that the structure, sheathed OSB plates, completely ready for use, the appearance is still far from perfect. Today there are many materials for cladding rooms. Let's consider the most popular ones.

Lining

It looks like a lining

For baths, decorative or imitation lining is usually used. It is the cheapest and most affordable material with average strength and reliability characteristics.

It is recommended to arrange the boards horizontally, having previously laid a layer of waterproofing, which can be used as glassine. It is necessary to fasten the sheets with an overlap, in order to avoid moisture penetration under the cracks. Often, the seams are additionally glued from the inside - this increases the protection against precipitation. After fixing the lining, it is covered with decorative varnish or paint to avoid cracks and decay.

How on garden plot to equip an artificial reservoir, find out.

Thermal panels

This modern material, representing a three-layer construction with insulation, usually mineral wool or foam is used for this purpose. The outer surface can have a variety of textures, colors and shapes. Usually it is made of artificial stone, clinker or porcelain stoneware, and glazed tiles are often used.

The panels have mutual grooves, so they not only form a monolithic pattern, but are also reliable protection buildings from humidity, sun and other unfavorable climatic conditions. They are resistant to mold and microorganisms. Typically, the outer layers are made from a highly durable material suitable for use in building interiors and exteriors.

The use of front thermal panels is beneficial when heating a building. The material retains up to 40% of heat, while not harming the indoor microclimate.

Facing brick

Inexpensive, but high-quality material with which you can decorate a bath in any area. Facing brick are made of high-class clay, due to which good strength and resistance to damage and temperature extremes are achieved. Depending on the manufacturing technology, it can be ceramic, silicate or clinker.

Subject to the rules of installation, as well as the addition of an additional layer of insulation, it is possible to increase the thermal insulation properties of the building. The material is easy to use, no auxiliary tools are required for work.

Vinyl siding

One of the lightest and most common materials for cladding residential and commercial premises. Externally, it is an ordinary board for building cladding, but does not lose its appearance for 20 years. Withstands temperature extremes, washes well with plain water, is not affected by fungus and mold. There is a great variety color solutions vinyl siding, thanks to which the bath will become an addition to the main building on the site. Easy to install, low cost.

A beautiful zoning of the territory near a private house is described.

Block house

It is a planed board made in the form of a profiled or rounded bar. Used for both external and interior decoration... It is made mainly of coniferous wood, but you can find models from aspen or linden. Allows you to create the illusion that the bathhouse is built of timber.

After installation, treatment with an antiseptic and paint and varnish is required to avoid rotting and cracking.

Stage 7: Warming and vapor barrier

Frame structures are highly susceptible to moisture, especially at the time of temperature changes inside and outside the premises. To avoid this problem, it is necessary to consider a vapor barrier layer. For this purpose, use aluminum film, special film or glassine. It is not recommended to use roofing material - it will exude an unpleasant odor. Usually it is installed at the stage of insulation.

Construction technology frame buildings provides for layer-by-layer stacking of materials, so the result is a so-called "pie". It usually consists of the following elements:

• external facing material;
• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier layer;
• inner lining.

The materials should not adhere tightly to each other, therefore, a small air gap of up to 5 cm should be left, which is necessary to increase the life of the building.

The thermal insulation of the steam room should be thought out wisely. As a material for it, a foil material is usually used, laid with a foil inside. This creates a "thermos effect" that allows you to keep the warmth inside the room for longer. It is recommended to sheathe the walls and ceiling inside the bath with hardwood clapboard (linden or aspen). When using pine or spruce boards, the resin will drip onto the body when heated.

Check out how to make a fountain on your site.

Video

In the video, you can watch the main points of the construction of a frame bath in order to avoid the mistakes of beginners.

conclusions

1. Frame construction technology - the optimal solution for the construction of a bath... It is durable and lightweight construction with high reliability and long service life.
2. The choice of foundation depends on the area of ​​the building and the type of soil. For small buildings, a pile-screw base is used, and for large rooms, a strip foundation is better suited.
3. The floor can be laid immediately after the completion of the construction of the base of the bath. In this case, special attention should be paid to the washing room.
4. Walls can be erected directly on the foundation or the frame can be connected on the ground, and then installed ready-made. The roofing system is being built in a similar way.
5. When building a frame bath, it is important to think over the design of insulation and vapor barrier. It is always a layer-by-layer system, which is limited from the outside by the cladding of the building, and inside by the wall cladding.
6. It is also important to consider that the appearance of the bath fits into the overall picture, if there is one on your summer cottage... It is optimal that the exterior of the bath is made in the same style as.

When starting a simple and not very laborious construction, it should be remembered that the floor in the frame bath- it is not just a plank covering, but also a drain for water, and a "keeper" of heat in the room. Therefore, counting on the use of the bath all year round, and the floors must be made appropriate: strong, reliable, insulated.

If the bath is being built as a summer one, then the floor in it can be simpler in execution and much cheaper.

How to lay the floor in a bath. Foundation and drain pit

The floors in the frame bath are laid on the base - lags that are laid on the foundation. They, or bars, are laid on concrete (brick) pillars present in the strip foundation and must be waterproofed.

Also should be considered, that this is not just a foundation, but a bathhouse, therefore it is necessary to provide a hole for water drainage of a sufficient area - usually a lot of water is consumed during swimming and a small pit cannot absorb it so quickly that it does not have time to stagnate or freeze in winter.

In addition to taking into account the size, it is advisable to equip the pit drainage system, and its walls are better to be concreted, since the constant presence of moisture can provoke collapses and destruction of the foundation pit.

These requirements are common for different types of floors.

Leaking and non-leaking floors

The floor in a frame bath can be equipped with both leaking and non-leaking types.

The first one is budgetary and very easy to install. But a bath with such a floor is completely impossible to use in winter, because it does not hold heat, it constantly cools from under the boards, and there is no barrier between the floor and the ice cushion formed under the bath.

The essence of the leaking floor is this: it is constructed of planks, between which a decent-sized gap is left for the early escape of water.

Non-leaking floor will allow you to take a bath both in the heat and in the winter cold. There are no gaps in it, another layer of the floor, the so-called rough, is present, there is a slope and a specially equipped drain.

For the arrangement of bath floors, two types of material are used: wood and concrete.

Wooden floor that does not leak. Construction stages

According to the project, the arrangement of non-leaking floors in the bath should be started even at the stage of laying logs or beams - the foundation of the future floor should not be laid evenly, but with a slight slope (about 100) towards the planned drain.

A metal ventilation pipe must be installed between the upper and lower layers of the floor (rough and final) - its presence must also be provided for at the initial stages of the construction of the floor in the bath.

Set of tools required by the master for construction is very small:

• construction stapler;
• hammer.

List of materials also not too extensive and they are not very expensive:

• bars 30x30 mm;
• several sheets of moisture resistant plywood;
• mineral wool;
• waterproofing film;
• floor boards (exclusively made of hardwood);
• construction scotch tape;
• nails.

Stages of work:

1. The base of the floor, bars, is nailed to the logs.
2. Use plywood sheets as a subfloor: they must be nailed end-to-end to the beams.
3. Lay an insulating film layer on the plywood, securing it with an overlap with a stapler. Make sure that not a single gap remains. If such remain, they need to be sealed with tape.
4. Put a layer of mineral wool on the film, it will act as a heater, so there should not be any gaps in it either.
5. Make sure that the insulation layer has a minimum thickness of 15-18 mm.
6. There should be another layer of film on top of the mineral wool. In this case, it will already be a vapor barrier.
7. Fill in the top (finishing) layer of the floor. Use nails equal in length to twice the thickness of the board. Fit the boards as tightly as possible.

Floor in a frame bath do not cover with varnishes and paints, because from high temperatures and moisture levels, dyes can be toxic and therefore dangerous.

In order for the floor to be pleasant to the feet and to exclude the slightest possibility of driving thorns into the feet and bumping into knots, before the installation of a "white" floor, the boards must be carefully processed.

Concrete floor in the bath

Concrete screed laying rules for a bath, they differ somewhat from a screed in other, less humid rooms:

1. Laying is carried out on expanded clay cushion, which should not be continuous - it is necessary to provide a place for a pit.
2. Expanded clay layer - at least 15 cm.
3. A drainage system is required. It will be ideal if the drainage of water is provided to the side of the bath, so that the pit is at a certain distance from the building.
4. It is imperative to put a plank floor or tiles on the concrete.

Required tools:

• vibrator for compacting concrete;
• shovel;
• level.

Materials for work:

• Rabitz;
• concrete;
• a mixture of sand and cement.

Stages of work:

1. Lay the concrete layer 5 cm thick, keeping a slight slope towards the drain point (check with a level). Leave for a day to freeze.
2. After the first layer has hardened, pour expanded clay on it, lay the mesh on top.
3. Pour another layer of concrete with tamping, and apply a sand-cement mixture for leveling. Smooth the surface with a building board.
4. The top layer of concrete will harden for at least 5 days. After this time, you can do the very top of the floor - lay boards or non-slip tiles.

At the stage of decorating the floor surface, take into account one very important nuance for bathing establishments: the ceramic floor in a frame bath will be very hot. The tile, becoming hot, also becomes uncomfortable - it is impossible to touch it so as not to burn yourself. Therefore, if the floor is tiled, then the necessary bath accessory must immediately establish safe wooden grates.

The wooden floor in the bath should be treated with linseed oil twice.

Which gender is better?

Only the owner of the bath can answer this question, based on his own preferences, the expected seasonality of use and material capabilities.

High-quality floor in a frame bath- one that is made in accordance with all technological requirements and provides water drainage, warmth in the room and comfort for bare feet.

Frame bath - pre-fabricated construction. It is built from wooden beams. Such a structure is easy to move from place to place, install on wooden piles, adjust the distance to the ground, and equip water drainage. To repair a bathhouse or replace building elements, it is not required to disassemble the entire structure. Thermal insulation of a frame bath is part of the construction process. The walls of the bathhouse are a pie with vapor barrier, waterproofing and a layer of insulation. Baths are insulated during construction.

The procedure for warming a frame bath

Insulation of the frame bath should start from the walls and floor, gradually rising. The ceiling is insulated last, the steam room too, since it interior buildings. Before starting work on the insulation of the bath, you need to install external walls... For example, sheathe the frame with clapboard or other wood, and after thermal insulation, install a ventilated facade. This will help draw moisture out.

The bath floor should have a cake design. First, the crate is installed, which must be covered with a vapor barrier, then the insulation is mounted, then the waterproofing and topcoat.

The insulation of the ceiling in the bath is similar to the floor, only for the vapor barrier you need to install a foil covering. It traps heat and reflects it off the ceiling. Also, near the ceiling, an exhaust hood or an opening for air and condensation must be provided.

When insulating a steam room, you need to pay attention to the area near the stove. It requires additional protection from moisture and fire. In addition to insulation and waterproofing, foil or a thin layer of aluminum is laid on the walls around the stove, and then heat-resistant brick.

Insulation of the walls of the frame bath

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the thickness of the frame rails is at least 150 millimeters. You can lay the insulation right between them: the structure will be lighter, but hardly more durable. If you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, you should sheathe the frame with clapboard from the outside.

Then lay a layer of vapor barrier, grabbing the frame battens and lining. The vapor absorber can be a foil coating, polymer and membrane PVC films. You can attach them to the tree with a stapler. Mount the crate on top, lay insulation between it and the frame.

The installation of the insulation starts from the bottom up along the perimeter of the bath frame. Depending on the material, you can attach it to the wall using glue or dowels with screws. For some heaters, for example, polyurethane foam, fasteners are not needed, since the material has adhesive properties. The insulation layer must be at least 100 millimeters. In some cases, it is possible to install a double layer of thermal insulation of 50 millimeters. Place foil between layers for extra protection.

The gaps and gaps between the insulation plates must be closed polyurethane foam... Then proceed with the installation of the waterproofing. To do this, it is also worth taking the foil material and attaching it over the lathing. Close all joints and gaps with foil scraps. For finishing the walls, take the lining and close the waterproofing with it.

Before insulating the walls, check again the places with hoods or air outlets. They need to be placed at the top of the wall. After insulation, treat the holes with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the floor in a frame bath

You need to start warming the bath with the installation of wooden plates on the outside of the frame. Drill holes in them for ventilation and one big hole to drain the water. Then lay a layer of waterproofing - PVC membrane. It must completely cover the frame and the wooden slabs. It can be glued on. After that, put a layer of insulation between the frame rails. It can be polyurethane foam. Due to its physical and chemical properties, it is attached to the surface without glue. Spraying layer - 25-40 millimeters. It should be taken into account that after spraying, the PUF will increase in volume. After that, close the insulation with a thin wooden plate and leave a gap of 2-3 millimeters between the materials. This will help the condensate evaporate. For additional protection, lay a layer of polystyrene or expanded polystyrene on top of the wooden board and secure it with glue. At this stage, pay attention to the plum. Place sealant around it. Then cover the entire floor with foil-coated waterproofing.

The topcoat can be both wood treated with antifungal agents, and polymer-cement screed with tiles.

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame bath

The thermal insulation device for the ceiling of a frame bath is similar to wall insulation. First, you need to install a PVC membrane that will remove moisture to the outside, then a layer of insulation, then a foil covering - it will help keep the heat inside. The membrane needs to be attached to wooden beams with a stapler and foil tape. After that, install the crate, which will help to evenly distribute the insulation around the perimeter of the ceiling. Insert thermal insulation between the battens of the battens, a layer of 50 to 100 millimeters. The insulation should be uniform without gaps. If there are any, cover them with polyurethane foam. Then attach the vapor barrier: foil or thermal film. Install wooden slats on top. This will allow the material to attach more tightly.

The final stage will be finishing cladding... Suitable for this cladding panels, lining made of linden, larch or pine. It is better to fasten heavy materials to the ceiling using dowels and self-tapping screws, and light ones - with polyurethane glue or a stapler. Above the stove, you need to install a screen from of stainless steel... This will protect the ceiling from deformation and overheating. The same should be done on the floor around the oven.

Thermal insulation of a steam room (steam room) of a frame bath

To insulate a steam room, you need to follow the same instructions as for insulating a bath. The steam room is distinguished by a high concentration of moisture and an oven. To protect the walls from mold and mildew, you need to install a double layer of waterproofing. Also, the insulation layer can be doubled. Place a PVC membrane between the layers. It is worth paying attention to the area around the stove, chimney and windows. Close all gaps and cracks with insulation and sealant, install a foil covering around the entire perimeter of the steam room, and then close it with clapboard.

Materials for warming a frame bath

For thermal insulation of the bath, you can use different materials: from mineral wool to polyurethane foam. When choosing a heater, you need to pay attention to its properties:

• low flammability class;
• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• the least moisture permeability;
• environmental friendliness;
• long service life.

PPU

Closed-cell polyurethane foam has a water absorption rate of 5% of the volume, therefore it is suitable for insulating a frame bath. Its thermal conductivity is 0.022 W / m * K - one of the lowest among materials for thermal insulation. PU foam does not absorb moisture, is not subject to decay and thinning. Spray it with special equipment a single layer. High adhesion allows laying not only on horizontal but also on vertical surfaces. To insulate a bath, it is important that the insulation is non-combustible. The flammability class of polyurethane foam varies depending on the requirements. This polymer does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere even in rooms with high temperature... Its service life reaches 30 years or more. Learn more about the equipment and components of polyurethane foam.

The thermal insulation properties of the foam are comparable to those of polyurethane foam. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W / m * K. Polyfoam also does not absorb moisture, it is resistant to salt solutions. It is often used to insulate residential buildings and various structures. However, it can deteriorate from acetone, kerosene and oil. It has a high flammability class and is highly flammable. When burning, it emits a pungent toxic odor. Styrofoam can be used to insulate the floor in a bath, but you should remember about precautions and avoid overheating. The service life of the foam is from 10 to 20 years.

Conclusion

Warming a frame bath requires an integrated approach. You need to start from the floor, going up. A combination of several materials can be used. When insulating, make sure that there are no cracks and gaps in the frame structure.

If you do not know which materials to choose for warming a bath, you cannot calculate their consumption and are looking for a suitable team, use the service on the website. More than 630 teams of performers are registered, ready to help you. to contact a consultant. He will tell you about the cost of the work and help you choose a team ..