What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Almost always there comes a moment when the owner of a private private house thinks about the need for facing the house with bricks. In general, in the modern market there are many options for external cladding, including decorative plaster, plastic frames (siding), special facing plates or ceramic tile... However, despite the many options, more people choose reliable and proven material over the years. Modern cladding brick combines reliability and excellent appearance. Color schemes and textures are varied and varied. Even if you have an old ramshackle house, brick cladding will give it a fresh look.

For facing work, the same types of bricks are used as for other ordinary ordinary work. The only difference is the quality of the material; the front part of the brick is used for facing. So which brick is better? Varieties of cladding bricks:

Red ceramic

The cost of red brick remains acceptable all the time. It is one of the most popular cladding options. Its main disadvantage is a high rate of absorbed moisture (from 5 to 20 percent, depending on the manufacturer and batch). This affects its frost resistance, which in red brick is within 25-75 cycles. This means that it can withstand freezing and thawing for so many times, without losing its strength and changing its other properties. The higher the frost resistance index, the more expensive the brick is, but it is better to choose a more frost-resistant one. The indicator is indicated by the Latin letter "F". The ingress of moisture into the pores significantly degrades the properties of the brick. Freezing, the water expands, thereby leading to the appearance of cracks. Cladding materials are coated with a special hydrophobic layer on the front, this is done by manufacturers, but this is often not enough. It is better to revet the house, all the walls in the house, with special primers, after its laying. This will extend the life of the wall. Brick house, ceramic brick houses look the best.

White silicate

The cheapest material among all, however, it is the least suitable for cladding. Its frost resistance reaches 50 cycles, it has good heat conductivity, but it is a much more hydrophobic material. They produce many color variations of this material, it has excellent decorative properties, but does not tolerate a humid climate. It is better to clad with white brick in warm areas, since during processing special solutions, will be able to serve for a long time. But silicate has increased strength, it is obtained by autoclaving, therefore, with a brick lining of silicate, the house will last longer. The result is a highly durable silicate material.

Hyper-pressed materials

The name speaks for itself. This material is obtained by pressing without the use of heat treatment. Its main component is lime, to which special plasticizers and fillers are added. As with silicates, the color schemes of hyper-compressed bricks are varied. Many color pigments are used to color it. According to manufacturers, the frost resistance of such bricks can reach 150 cycles. For decorative properties, it is often produced in the form of a wild stone. Non-linearity of dimensions can lead to a deterioration in the hygroscopicity of the material, but its surface is treated with water-repellent compounds, like the rest of the bricks.

Clinker

Relatively new good material for cladding. Possesses the best indicators of strength and density, due to which it is resistant to a humid environment. This is good property, for outdoor masonry. Combined with its strength, clinker brick cladding is reliable and durable. But such brickwork is more difficult in the manufacturing process, the bricklayer has to use a thick, non-plastic mortar. The frost resistance of such a material can be up to 150 cycles. Its strength characteristics allow manufacturers to create it in a variety of forms. It can be used to build complex facade elements. But all these advantages are greatly leveled by its cost. Clinker brick cladding will cost you much more. Its production is more difficult, its cost can be up to 100 percent higher than that of ceramic.

Dimensions (edit)

The choice of brick is not limited to its composition. Its linear dimensions are also important. There are 3 main types:

• Single (250 x 120 x 65 mm.);
• One and a half (250 x 120 x 88 mm.);
• Double (130 x 176 x 206 mm.).

Other sizes are also produced, but these are the most common. The chosen single or one-and-a-half size is best suited for cladding, as the brickwork looks more beautiful.

Attention should also be paid to emptiness. Facing material, like ordinary, is produced with voids or full-bodied. It is better to choose hollow bricks so as not to increase the weight load on the wall.

Wall cladding with hyper-pressed bricks is reliable, but you need to pay attention to the period of its production. The material should "lie down" for about a month, only then it gains sufficient strength.

Brick wall cladding of a wooden house (timber, brick cladding of a frame house)

Technologically brick lining wooden house the hardest part. This is due to the large difference in the characteristics of the two materials. It is quite difficult to correctly combine their individual properties. The main problem is to finish in such a way as to create ventilation between the insulation and the brick. In addition, the insulation itself must be installed on the wooden facade. On top of the surface of the insulation, vapor barrier materials are applied. This ensures the required level of humidity in the building. Thus, the dew point is carried out of the dwelling and the house, clad in brick, "breathes". Of course, if the thickness of the wooden walls is large, then it is not necessary to insulate them (the wood itself is warm). However, wind protection and ventilation space should be left.

The ventilation space should be about 50 mm. It is equipped over the entire area of ​​the wall from the foundation to the roof. In order for the air to circulate, special holes are left in the lower and upper parts. Air enters from below and exits through the top. For every 15 meters of the wall, holes of 700 mm must be made. Technically, they are equipped in the following ways:

• A hollow brick is placed on its side;
• The side seams in the masonry are not filled with mortar;
• Holes are laid out and metal gratings are installed on top of them.

As a heater, you can use mineral basalt wool, polystyrene and expanded polystyrene of increased strength. But it is not advisable to choose the latter, since they do not allow air to pass through, because of which the wooden walls can begin to rot. In addition, foam is a highly flammable material, unlike cotton wool.

It is important to know that it is impossible to insulate a new wooden house, it must shrink. (about 2 years)

How to choose cladding for a wooden house

The wood itself looks beautiful if it is not old house... But the combination of brick and wood is very difficult in its combination. The advantage of cladding is:

• Increasing the fire safety of the building;
• Warming, as a result, reducing heating costs;
• Improving the physical and mechanical properties of the wall and wear resistance.

The negative consequences include:

• Cladding technology is complex due to the arrangement of a ventilated facade. In case of non-compliance with the technology, the lined house will begin to rot due to a violation of the microclimate. Decay of walls or insulation will begin.
• The resizing of bricks and wood in warm and cold seasons is not the same, which is why the wall must be fastened in a movable manner. Sudden temperature changes can lead to delamination of the cladding.
• Foundation safety margin. A feature of a brick is its weight. It is much heavier wooden structures therefore the foundation must be calculated in advance for the increase in weight.

It turns out that it is not reasonable to build a house of wood, planned with cladding in advance. This makes sense if you want to overlay the facade of an old wooden house.

Technological process

On top of the insulation, a vapor barrier is filled with a construction stippler. Sometimes a vapor barrier is used, which removes steam only in one direction. In this case, it needs to be directed outside the house.

The walls are clad in brick floor, usually they need anchoring. There are several ways to do this. For wooden walls, you can use a regular nail. It is hammered into the wall and bent over. A wire is wound on it and tied between the seams in the masonry.

The second option is to use a reinforcing mesh. Reinforce the wall in such a way that the reinforcement rods tied every fifth row of masonry.

How to properly reinforce a wall

Reinforcement allows for a more reliable connection facing material and the wall of the house. It is better not to neglect this procedure, and in some cases you cannot do without it at all. Of course, such a process increases the cost of the work, as well as the duration of its implementation. For reinforcement, reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm and a mesh with a mesh size of about 40-60 mm are used.

Brick cladding of aerated concrete house

The vapor permeability in such a material is higher than in brick, therefore, facing of foam blocks with bricks leads to the same problems as with wood. In order not to disturb the microclimate in the building, they must make a gap for ventilation. If you cover it without observing the technology and do not make a gap, then the process of destruction of the wall from the gas block will begin, condensation will begin to form between the cladding and the house, destroying both materials.

For foam concrete, the difference in brick cladding is in the insulation. He, as a rule, is simply not needed. And if there is a desire to insulate, then technological process the same as with a tree.

The main reason for insulating such houses is the destruction of the masonry material. Porous materials absorb moisture strongly and, moreover, are not more durable. Their service life is much shorter than that of bricks, therefore, houses built of foam concrete (aerated concrete) are planned to be clad immediately, sometimes using a three-layer insulation.

The clad house has a beautiful aesthetic appearance. Brick is the classic cladding option and never goes out of style. Knowing the sequence of work, you can do it yourself, saving on the wages of professionals.

Video

Building a house of one brick in our climate is not the best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which makes the walls thick. But using it as a finishing material is already more economically justified: facing a house with a brick, when proper insulation, will help to save on heating, and the appearance will give the structure "capital". If the walls are kicked out of a foam block or other light and warm building blocks, then such a finish will also be windproof. Brick houses are also lined with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, fungus and expensive repairs with a complete bulkhead finish.

Which brick to use

Facing brick is produced using different technologies, due to which it has different characteristics and prices:

• Ceramic. Of all the finishing materials, it is the most inexpensive. The disadvantages include high hygroscopicity: 6-15% depending on technology and batch. The water trapped in the pores expands during freezing, causing destruction, the brick begins to crumble. Even a special finishing, in which in factories the bed (the part that turns out to be outside) is specially protected. Exit - after installation, cover the wall with a hydrophobic compound. Only those that do not form a vapor-impermeable film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing brick 25-75 cycles (how many times it tolerates frosting / freezing without deterioration in quality). The higher this indicator, the higher the price. This is explained by high production costs.
• Hyper-pressed or non-fired. This type of facing brick is obtained not by firing, but by pressing. In its composition, it is no longer clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The possibility of using pigments allows a wide range of colors to be obtained. The front surface is often non-linear, imitating a wild stone. Looks decorative. But such nonlinearity threatens delamination: an uneven surface, water flows more abundantly into the pores, freezes in frosts. It is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. Frost resistance of high-quality non-fired bricks is declared by manufacturers from 75 to 150 cycles.

  

• Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it a very high strength and density. The denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for operation, but when laying it leads to difficulties: so that the wall does not "float", you need to put it on a hard, low-plastic solution, and it is more difficult to work with it. Another disadvantage that limits the widespread use of material that is excellent in terms of characteristics: it is expensive compared to previous materials: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Clinker frost resistance - from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is an expensive pleasure, but the most attractive in appearance.

  

• Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most "rapidly deteriorating" facing brick: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: the average weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so great. If we consider that heating costs will also be higher, then the benefit is dubious. It is advisable to cover the house with sand-lime brick in warm regions. In the northern ones it is completely unprofitable.

  

  Facing a house made of silicate bricks is the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, the most short-lived type of decoration.

Choosing a brick type is far from everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. Solid finishing brick is rarely used: it costs more, weighs more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they are large and small. With equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the solution will not flow into them. This will reduce the consumption of masonry mortar, and increase the strength of the masonry.

If it was decided to cover the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be produced no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and it can already be safely transported and loaded.

Please note that during storage, water must not enter the brick packaging. This is especially true if you are going to leave it for the winter.

How to overlay a wooden house (timber, log, frame) with bricks

The most difficulties arise when decorating a wooden house with bricks: materials have very different characteristics, it is not easy to make a good bunch of them. The whole secret here is the need for a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation layer, which is usually wooden wall stuffed. A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. Required condition- it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Izospan AS, Tyvek HouseRap, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will there be normal humidity in the room and rot and fungus will not develop between the lining and wooden wall.

Instead of wind insulation, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With a sufficient thickness of the wooden walls, the thermal insulation layer is simply absent, the wind insulation and ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the basement - and to the top. To ensure the air flow in the first row, ventilation ducts are made through which air enters. Outlets are arranged under the roof in the cornice part. The area of ​​the ventilation holes is 75 cm 2 for every 20 m 2 of the wall. The airflow in the bottom row can be done in several ways:

• put a brick with through holes on its side;
• partially fill the side seams with mortar (when laying the mortar, place a ruler, then remove it);
• make two or three holes and install the grates.

About what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of foam or expanded polystyrene is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the fact that the wood will rot, and the humidity in the premises will be higher than normal.

One more important point: bricking a wooden house is possible only after the main shrinkage of the log house has passed. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have passed in them.

Pros and cons of a brick-lined wooden house

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely controversial matter. From positive aspects can be distinguished:

There are enough negative points:

In general, it is not an ideal solution. If the house is still being planned, think a few times. Maybe it's better to build and then brick them. These materials match much better and complement each other's qualities. It is worth covering a wooden house with bricks if the house is old, the wood has darkened, it is necessary to give it a more attractive look.

Wall cladding technology

First, the wood is treated with a protective impregnation for outdoor use. Then the crate is stuffed from a planed bar (also impregnated). The dimensions of the timber depend on the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Usually for Middle lane Russia needs a basalt wool thickness of about 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But specifically, everything is considered depending on the thickness of the wall (from a bar or log) and the brick chosen for facing.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the crate is packed taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. This will force the material to fit. It will fit snugly against the crate, which minimizes the formation of cold bridges.

An example of a brick wall cladding of a wooden and frame house

A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It must be vapor-permeable, and if the vapor-permeability is one-sided, then moisture removal is necessary from the room. Fasten the membrane with staple brackets to the crate. Next, leave a ventilation gap of at least 60 mm and put a wall of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are several subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually covered with half a brick. Without support, the wall is wobbly, especially in large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are going to impose a brick on the house with your own hands, problems may arise with the horizontal and vertical masonry. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

• Long pins are horizontally hammered in the corners of the house under the roof and above the plinth. They should protrude from the wall at a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
• At one corner, a wire is tied to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry and lowered down, movably fixed on the lower nail.
• Its verticality is checked and set by a plumb line, rigidly fixed.
• Also, at the same distance, a vertical wire is tied at the other end of the wall.
• A horizontal cord is tied between the two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide when laying: it can be moved up as the rows are laid. Only every time it is necessary to check the horizontal position using a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap device. The situation is similar: the outside turns out to be a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. In this case, only wire or strips of sheet metal for dressing are attached to the frame posts.

Reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall more durable and reliable. Therefore, it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the laying, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if the craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then rows with reinforcement should be laid approximately every 5th row. A special mesh with a cell of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm is placed as reinforcement. At the same time, the size of the seam, whether along with reinforcement or not, should be the same.

Facing the house with brick "live" filmed on video, the technique of laying "under the rod". The seams are beautiful, but water flows into them, which is absorbed by the brick. Therefore, the seams cannot be left in this form. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane with the brick surface. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the "life" of the brick wall cladding will be much longer. The masonry process itself is demonstrated correctly: the solution is laid neatly, drops that fall on the surface are immediately overwritten.

Facing the house with aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate bricks

The vapor permeability of cellular concrete is also higher than that of bricks. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is a material that better removes vapors. Therefore, to ensure a normal indoor climate and a long service life, a ventilation gap is required between the brickwork and the wall and foam blocks.

If you impose a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, gas silicate) with a brick without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensate will accumulate at the border of two materials. At low temperatures, the frozen moisture will destroy the bubble shell, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly degrading its performance.

Options for cladding an aerated concrete house with bricks and their characteristics

Additional heaters are used very rarely, if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as when facing a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by wind insulation.

The size of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. The number of ties between two walls: at least 3 pcs per square meter of masonry, their transverse section- not less than 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connection, you can use screw or stainless steel nails with a length of at least 120 mm. They are not driven perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45 °. You can use perforated galvanized strips, which are nailed on one side building blocks, and the second end is wound into the brickwork, where it is bent at an angle. Note: the ties should not be embedded in the seams of the masonry of the main wall. Only nailed to the face of the blocks.

The best wall cladding made of aerated concrete and aerated concrete - bricks with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag filling house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks are spreading along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it decreases if the humidity of the walls was increased.

Brick cladding of a house made of cinder block (slag block) will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The length of the grace period depends on the condition of the material and on the measures taken. On average, he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the cost of an error is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, to carry out waterproofing work. One of which is external protection of walls from atmospheric precipitation using brick cladding. The brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (only not creating a vapor-impermeable film). The penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. For this, you can use impregnation type "Penetron" and analogs. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

On the choice of suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials vary greatly from region to region. To correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, see offers in the region on the network. During the call, you need to get technical data, find out prices. Then compare the characteristics of bricks, compare prices.

Best advice: Don't buy too cheap materials. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely, these are last year's remnants of not the most successful batch. Otherwise, look at the price / performance ratio.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

• silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles / piece;
• ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles / piece (full-bodied 45-65 rubles / piece);
• hyperpressed non-fired - 25-31 rubles / piece;
• clinker - 27-40 rubles / piece.

After choosing several possible suppliers, see their product in person. Smooth edges, uniform color, no cracks or any defects are what you should see.

About the size of the party. It is advisable to buy the entire volume of cladding material at once. This will help you save about 10-15%. some suppliers offer large consignments to be brought directly from the factory by dumping norms. It is also cheaper, and additional overload is eliminated, which means less fight.

The advantages of buying in bulk are also that the batch is likely to be one, which guarantees uniformity of color. In any case, brick cladding of the house is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.

The modern construction market offers a large number of finishing materials. But the brick facade is still popular with private developers. According to many, a brick-faced cottage looks solid, and the facades of private brick houses themselves are distinguished by increased durability and trouble-free operation.

These statements are true only if the main condition is met - the brick facade of the building is made according to all the rules and using high-quality building materials... Otherwise, instead of prestige, such a solution will turn into a real one. headache for its owner.

In this article, we'll cover:

• What nuances you need to know before revealing a house with bricks.
• Do you need a ventilation gap when facing walls with bricks?
• The better to tie the facing brick to the load-bearing wall.
• Is it possible to overlay a wooden house with bricks.

Brick house facade decoration: features

Most often, the developer, deciding to brick the house, is guided by the banal "I want". A lot of points that directly affect the performance and service life of such a facade are overlooked, the most important of which is the project.

Facades of brick buildings.

The material of the facade should be thought out even at the design stage of the house, and not left "for later".

If you neglect this rule, after the construction of the "box" a whole bunch of problems appear. It turns out that the width of the foundation is not enough to support the facing brick. the owner, even at the construction stage, decided to additionally insulate the walls. The facade of a building made of facing bricks (and it has a lot of weight) exceeds the bearing capacity of the base and the strength of the foundation, as a result, the masonry cracks.

The workers do not know how to properly tie the brick façade to the load-bearing walls. As usual, they do it “in their own way” and “as simple as possible,” using metal or fiberglass mesh, thin galvanized strips, etc. as ties.

Therefore, in order not to make adjustments and corrections during construction, which inevitably leads to additional material costs, we are guided by the following several rules:

• The brick facade should be considered in an inextricable connection with the material of the load-bearing walls, the view facade insulation(if any), the architecture of the house and its design.
• The brick facade perceives a significant wind load, which then, through special connections, must be transmitted to the load-bearing walls. Those. a system arises: load-bearing wall-facade.
• The service life of this variety of the facade, as well as all its structural elements: ties, insulation, etc., must correspond to the service life of the bearing walls of the house. Those. - system elements: carrier wall-facade must be balanced.

If, relatively speaking, the facade should last 50-60 years, and connections or thermal insulation have lost their properties after 10-15 years, then this will lead to the need for major and expensive repairs. It is impossible to carry out it without dismantling or partially disassembling the masonry.

There are many nuances, and for each element of the brick facade system, you can write a separate article. Therefore, below will be given answers to the most common facade questions that arise from novice developers, for example, aerated concrete and timber houses.

Do I need to make a ventilation gap when facing walls with bricks

Motorist FORUMHOUSE user

I have read more than one topic on our portal, but I still have not found the exact answer whether it is necessary to leave an air gap when building a house from aerated concrete, the walls of which I want to brick.

To answer this question, you should imagine the wall in section and remember the rule mentioned above: inner wall + facade = a single system. From here, we set the basic conditions for solving the problem.

Facade masonry from kripich.

The wall can be two-layer (load-bearing wall + brick facade) or three-layer (load-bearing wall + insulation + brick facade).

The inner wall of the cottage is made of D400 aerated concrete. This material (like wood) is vapor permeable. Therefore, water vapor from the house, due to partial pressure, moves from the inside to the outside. If water vapor does not meet obstacles on its way, then it will freely leave the enclosing structure.

The brick facade has a lower vapor permeability than aerated concrete / wood. As a result, the rule will be violated: the vapor permeability of layers in multilayer structures should increase from the inside out.

Those. there is a possibility that water vapor "gets locked" in the wall (especially if the front brick is placed close to the aerated concrete). This will lead to waterlogging of the enclosing structure. The situation can be aggravated in winter during the heating season, because due to the temperature difference inside the heated warm room and on the cold street, the intensity of movement of water vapor from the inside to the outside will increase.

The air gap and, we note, necessarily ventilated, allows excess water vapor to freely escape from the wall.

The wall turns out to be "healthy" and warm (because with excessive moisture accumulation, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material increases, and the wall becomes colder). Excessive moisture in the wall can cause ( interior decoration) mold and mildew, because aerated concrete will have to dry inward.

Negativ Participant of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

I am an advocate of a ventilated air gap of 2.5 cm or more between the load-bearing wall and the brickwork.

The average air gap thickness is usually in the range of 3 to 4 cm.

Resolved, we make an air gap. To make it ventilated, air vents are arranged in the lower part of the masonry - ventilation holes. Through them, air enters inward. Further, due to the resulting thrust (i.e. the gap from above does not overlap, but it connects to a ventilated under-roof channel) the air is removed through the ridge of the house.

Condensation is also discharged through the vents, which may appear on the inner surface of the facing brick. Accordingly: do not forget to waterproof the unit for supporting the brickwork in the lower part, when resting on a foundation or on a monolithic shelf.

The air gap optimizes the operating mode of the system: load-bearing wall - brickwork.

If the wall is three-layer, i.e. it is planned additional insulation, then the water vapor that has passed through the load-bearing wall and insulation (mineral wool) must be removed without fail, because wetted thermal insulation loses its function and its service life is significantly reduced.

For ease of understanding, when arranging a brick facade of a private house, we adhere to the same recommendations as when installing a hinged ventilated facade: we protect the insulation with a moisture and windproof membrane, which also prevents the removal of insulation particles, etc.

We can say that the removal of particles of mineral wool insulation will be minimal, and the insulation will not become overmoistened to critical values, and, accordingly, there is no need to spend money on a membrane. But remember that the miser pays twice.

A brick facade is expensive. The costs of purchasing high-quality wind and moisture protection will not lead to a significant increase in the cost of the entire structure, with an overall increase in reliability and service life.

Remember the third rule, that all elements of the system must be balanced, and replacing the insulation means dismantling the facade.

Also, the question is often asked, with what step to make airflows in the front masonry.

Skintex FORUMHOUSE user

I am making a three-layer ventilated facade - load-bearing wall, mineral wool, a gap of about 4-5 cm, facing brick. Accordingly, in the bottom row of masonry, I plan to leave the vertical seams empty for ventilation. I think how to do it correctly: through a seam or through two seams to the third, and how many voids are enough?

The following picture gives a clear answer.

Important: there is also an expert opinion that you should not leave air vents in the upper part of the brickwork, because this will lead to the fact that the air flow will follow the path of least resistance (i.e. through the upper vents), and we need the air flow to go exactly from below, ventilating the entire masonry.

To make the air vents look neat and aesthetically pleasing, and not like "samopal", from the voids between the bricks, unfilled with mortar, they can be made using special elements - ventilation and drainage boxes. The color of the box can be matched to the color scheme of the masonry, and the air will hardly be noticeable.

The boxes are placed at a distance of 0.75 - 1 m from each other.

How to tie facing brick to a load-bearing wall

We have already said above that a brick facade perceives significant dynamic wind loads, which must be transmitted to the load-bearing wall. The larger the area of ​​the facade and the higher the number of storeys of the house, the greater these loads. Therefore, it is impossible to use "folk" methods as connections. Namely - "soft" - basalt or fiberglass mesh, etc. These materials, due to their relatively high flexibility and pliability, will not be able to transfer the load. Those. system: load-bearing wall - brickwork will not work.

Moreover, when asked how many connections should be in 1 sq. m, one answer is given - this is a calculated value, which depends on the load and wind strength in a particular construction region. As a guide take 5 pcs. for 1 sq. m masonry.

We proceed to the choice of links, which are subject to the following requirements:

• high strength;
• long service life, because communications work in harsh conditions, with high humidity, frequent transitions through "0";
• high corrosion resistance.

AlexanderNF FORUMHOUSE user

I am building a house from aerated concrete. He poured the foundation, erected the walls, bought a facing brick for finishing the facade. I thought about how to tie gas silicate with facing brick.

Before answering this question, let's tell you what not to use. We proceed from the requirements for the links listed above. A popular option among builders is thin galvanized plates (perforated, or drywall hangers intended for internal work) do not pass in terms of service life. Such plates with a thickness of about 0.5 - 1 mm can corrode due to condensation formed on the inner surface of the facing brick. The zinc layer can damage workers when laying plates, etc.

Such a connection may already collapse in, relatively speaking, 10-15 years. While a brick facade should be at least 50-60 years old and above.

Thin plates bend easily. This advantage for builders (it is physically convenient for them to work with such "connections") turns into a disadvantage for the developer.

"Flexible" connection of this type will not be able to fully transfer the dynamic wind load from the facade to the load-bearing wall.

Most rational materials for ties there are two options - the use of stainless steel (plates or rods with a diameter of about 6 mm) or the use of flexible basalt-plastic ties.

The bonds are not laid in the gas silicate seam, but in the "body" of the block.

kodokopatel FORUMHOUSE user

I have used such connections. They can be called flexible only conditionally, since you can't really bend them with your hands. But such links provide some movement, allowing the load-bearing wall-masonry node to play relative to each other.

Unlike metal, plastic is not a "cold bridge" and does not corrode.

There are other options as well.

Sadovnik62 FORUMHOUSE user

I used 6mm fiberglass rebar. The reinforcement was attached to the gas block, after drilling the hole, placing it on a chemical anchor. I just couldn't find another way. Thin zinc plating will rust in the ventilation gap. I also tried to lay 2 mm thick plates into the seam when laying aerated concrete on glue. Refused this idea. It would seem that the thickness of the plate is 2 mm, but this gives an error throughout the entire row with fine-seam laying, and before laying the next one, you have to level the surface of the blocks.

Usually, when arranging a brick facade, they act according to the following rule: they erect walls and only after that they begin to install connections and lay facing bricks. But it happens that the laying of the walls and the facade is carried out almost simultaneously.

The main thing is to control the workers at all stages, because it is impossible to check the quality of various hidden works after the completion of the masonry... Builders, in order to simplify their task, can lay fewer ties, lay the anchor at insufficient depth in the masonry, etc.

• The depth of the anchor in the load-bearing wall is about 100 mm.
• We add the thickness of the insulation (if any).
• Add the width of the ventilation gap.
• We lay the anchor in the front brick according to the calculation - we do not reach about 2 cm to the front of the masonry. The bond should not run into the outer seam.
• We add about 2 cm to the stock, because the wall may be uneven (deviation of the load-bearing wall from the vertical), and if you take the connection end-to-end, its length may not be sufficient for laying to the required depth.

How to brick a wooden house

While this decision is common among budget-conscious developers, it is controversial. There are too many nuances to consider. A log house (depending on the region of residence) does not meet modern requirements for thermal resistance of enclosing structures. Accordingly, such a house will have to be insulated.

It is impossible to use insulation based on expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) or EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) for thermal insulation of a wooden house. Although there are such options.

The fact is that these types of heaters do not allow water vapor to pass through. He will be locked in a wall, which will begin to rot. These materials are flammable, and if a fire breaks out, the fire will quickly spread in the ventilation air gap, making the house almost impossible to extinguish.

It is forbidden to use expanded polystyrene by building codes and regulations when installing hinged ventilated facades.

If you insulate a wooden house, then only with mineral wool insulation... The question of how to impose a brick on a log house is often encountered among developers planning to give the house a solid appearance.

sasha508 FORUMHOUSE user

I built a log house. I want to insulate it and cover it with bricks. Thinking how to do it.

On this issue, a heated debate erupted on the portal. Users were divided into two different camps. In the first, those who believe that it is not worth doing, in the second, they express the opinion that it is possible to try, each case is individual.

Having conceived to impose a brick on a wooden house, remember that wood is a “living” material subject to seasonal fluctuations in humidity. The log house dries up, sits down and throughout the entire period of operation of the house lives its own life.

If you tie the brick facade to the wooden walls rigidly - having formed a connection, driving in two long nails "150" at an angle of 45 degrees, then if the tree "hums", the brickwork will crack. It also needs to be correct calculate the number and cross-section of vents for adequate ventilation in the gap. If you make a mistake, we will get insufficient ventilation, condensation, wood decay, mold and mildew from inside the premises.

The balanced system rule is violated. It may turn out that a beautiful brick facade will last much longer than a wooden house.

But sasha508 got to work, and that's what happened in the end.

The house has changed dramatically.

Now the log house looks solid beautiful cottage completely brick built.

The nuances of this construction are interesting.

The house was insulated with EPS, wrapping the timber walls outside, under the slabs, with a moisture-windproof film. Note that the extruded polystyrene foam is vapor-tight, and the L-joining of the edges ensures that the joint is not blown through. Therefore, wrapping the house with a film under the insulation is an extra work.

The ventilation gap is about 50-60 mm. The inside of the house is vapor-insulated... This minimized the amount of water vapor that can get into the wooden wall, which is closed from the outside with a vapor-tight insulation (EPS). This reduces the likelihood that the timber will begin to rot and rot.

Although on our portal there are many options for the facades of brick mansions different color and examples of successful facing with brick of a wooden house, this option requires a great construction culture from the workers, and any mistake can lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the supporting structure.

Alehandrovich FORUMHOUSE user

Although the developers say that I have laid a wooden house with bricks and nothing has rotted in 10 years, I will say that 10 years is not an indicator. There ishouses that have stood for 50 years, in which you will not see much rot, but the wood simply decays, becomes very soft, the house shrinks a lot, the walls bend like a barrel.

Summarizing

Having conceived to cover the house with bricks, we remember that this is an expensive undertaking, and such a facade should stand for decades. Unlike siding, it is impossible, in which case, dismantle the structure, see what is going on inside, pull out the insulation, replace the connections, choose a different color, etc. Therefore, the beautiful facade of a brick house stands on "three whales":

1. Competent calculation.
2. The use of various quality building materials with a long service life.
3. Total control over the progress of all work performed by workers.
whether or not a ventilation gap is needed in an aerated concrete house with brick cladding, and.

Brick is used not only as a building material. It performs the functions perfectly facade decoration... It would seem who will be surprised by the brick facade, but modern manufacturers of this material have learned to create not only durable specimens, but also interesting shapes, textures, and colors.

From the name it follows that the material is used for house cladding. They are also called front or front, but this does not mean at all that the strength characteristics are set aside by the manufacturers.

The brick, with which the walls are trimmed from the outside, must also have good strength indicators. This is due to the fact that the facade is constantly exposed to serious loads, such as:

• Mechanical damage (shock, wind gusts).
• Jumps in ambient temperature.
• Atmospheric precipitation, which means regular high humidity.
• Ultraviolet radiation.
• Biological effects (mold, fungus, insects, rodents).

Thanks to special manufacturing technologies, the brick facade is able to withstand all the above loads. At the same time, the material retains an attractive appearance for a long time without unnecessary maintenance costs.

The advantages and disadvantages of such a finish

When choosing materials for decorating the facade, you should definitely study all the pros and cons of one or another option. Consult with professionals, contact home owners who have chosen the same finish and know how the material manifests itself. Online forums are also fine. It is advisable to visit third-party sites, and not an online store of some manufacturer.

As for the brick cladding, the following advantages are distinguished:

1. High moisture repellency.
2. Durability and reliability.
3. Frost resistance of the structure.
4. Steam permeability.
5. Fire and environmental safety.
6. Long service life from 50 years.
7. Self-cleaning - dust and dirt are washed off with rainwater.
8. Easy maintenance.
9. Versatility - suitable for both outdoor and indoor decoration.
10. Large selection of shades and factor.

Of course, there are several disadvantages, like any other finishing material.
Let's get acquainted with them:

• High price.
• Low-quality products are covered with white bloom (efflorescence).
• It is important to buy the right amount of bricks from the same batch, otherwise the elements will differ in color. Although some specially buy 2-3 shades and mix the elements during the installation process. Thus, they create a unique pattern on the facade.

After evaluating the information received, everyone decides for themselves whether this option is suitable or not.

When can and when can not brick wall cladding be done?

But there are also several points that do not allow the use of a brick
masonry:

1. Low foundation strength. Brick is still a heavy material and requires a solid foundation. Therefore, if at first it was planned to build a frame house with light cladding, but in the process of operation it was decided to make a cladding of bricks, then it would be necessary to equip an additional foundation exclusively for the finishing wall.
2. Affects the choice of cladding and the strength of the load-bearing wall. The brick vertical is connected to the supporting structure so that it does not fall to one side or the other. This means that the main wall must withstand the additional load. A gas silicate base is suitable.
3. The need for redevelopment of the roof also carries a lot of weight when choosing a brick facade. The finished roof will not be able to protect the new structure.

All these nuances significantly increase the price of an already expensive cladding. If the house is old and cannot withstand such loads, then it is better to use lighter options for repair, for example, basement siding with imitation bricks or ceramic tiles for the facade. A curtain wall is used.

It is better if the brick facade is included in the project of the new house. Then, when erecting the facing wall according to the drawing, there will be no unforeseen costs or situations. Plus, when everything is planned and executed correctly, the structure will be much stronger.

Types of bricks for wall cladding

The modern building materials market offers types of facing bricks, which differ in the composition of the initial components and the method of production. But this does not mean that they differ and specifications... All values ​​are located approximately at the same level. Only the appearance and colors are different. Therefore, we will consider several popular options.

Ceramic

The main raw material for the manufacture of such bricks is clay of various grades. Several additional substances are added to the main component, which slightly improve its quality. The material is created full-bodied or with cavities. Strength does not depend on the presence of cavities; rather, the thermal insulation function improves.

Basically, they offer a range of shades from brown to orange and yellow, which is associated with the raw materials. No dye is added to such a brick. The surface of the elements is glossy or matt. The production features are as follows:

1. Thorough mixing of all components, especially if several types of clay have been used.
2. Forming of blanks.
3. Firing at a temperature of 800-1000 degrees.

But even in the case of using one type of clay, the shade of individual elements is different, and this is due to the following factors:

• Insufficient quality mix.
• Raw materials from the same quarry often differ in composition and color.
• Temperature fluctuations. The higher the workpieces are heated, the darker the brick will turn out.
• The duration of heat treatment is the same dependence as in the previous version. The longer it is fired, the darker.

The disadvantage of ceramic bricks is the frequent manifestation of efflorescence. The presence of such white spots is associated with poor quality raw materials or a short firing time. The composition of the adhesive is also an influential factor. For the solution, select only high-quality components.

Clinker

This is another version of ceramic bricks, but differs from its predecessor in the following points in manufacturing:

1. Only refractory clays are chosen.
2. Pigments are added to the batch, which makes it possible to make bricks of different colors.
3. After formation, firing is performed at more high temperatures about 1300 degrees. The material becomes strong and can withstand significant loads.

The clinker is distinguished by its decorative properties, but at the same time it is expensive. Everything is connected with a complex production process. In addition, goods are mainly presented on the domestic market. foreign manufacturers... Russian manufacturers still fall short of quality standards.

Hyperpressed

Such a brick consists mainly of waste from various industries:

• limestone;
• shell rock;
• waste from processing natural stones;
• slags.

In order to bind all the components, a little cement is added. Mineral and natural pigments are used to obtain colored pigments. The hyper-pressed brick differs in the process of creating products:

1. Thorough mixing of dry components.
2. Moisten the mixture with a little water.
3. Packing by shapes.
4. Exposure to high pressure.

The workpieces are dried until the moisture completely disappears. As you can see, the firing process is completely absent, but this does not make the brick brittle. On the contrary, thanks to the binder, the material acquires the same strength as natural stone. Hyper-pressed cladding costs a little less than clinker or ceramics, since the technological process is simpler.

The dimensions of the parts turn out to be almost the same, which is difficult to achieve when creating the previous options. This means that it is easier to overlay the facade with such material. The front side of the brick resembles a torn stone, since it has chips and breaks. This texture only attracts buyers, because it is an imitation of natural
stone.

Silicate

For the manufacture of this option, clay is not used at all. Manufacturers choose the main components:

• Quartz sand.
• Lime.
• Pigments.
• Mineral supplements.

Before sending the blanks for firing at a temperature of 120-200 0 С, they are subjected to pressing. Such actions allow you to give the parts the correct shape with small errors in dimensions (up to 0.5 mm). It should be said that silicate bricks are also fired at an increased pressure of up to 12 atmospheres.

This material is much cheaper than the above types. But they are rarely used as a facade cladding. This is due to:

1. High moisture absorption.
2. Low UV resistance.
3. Poor reaction to negative ambient temperature readings.

If this option is chosen for decoration, they take care of protection from destructive factors. The facade is treated with moisture-repellent compounds and the roof overhang is increased.

What is Bavarian masonry?

As mentioned above, bricks from different batches differ significantly in color. In the 17th century, the Bavarians faced the same problem. They tried to select raw materials more carefully, constantly improved the manufacturing process, but nothing came of it.

Then it occurred to me to sort finished products by color. Unfortunately, the desired result was also not there. There was nothing left to do but mix all the elements of 2–4 shades and distribute them evenly over the facade so that light or dark areas do not form on the surface.

The builders noticed that houses with such a pattern looked no worse than plain buildings. In addition, the masonry gave the building brightness and attractiveness, making it stand out from the crowd. Now this style of brickwork is considered a sign of good taste, and tourists go to Bavaria to admire the ancient buildings.

Photos of beautiful designs of brick houses

Examples using bricks

Someone likes brickwork, and the owner strives to recreate such a facade in any way - using facing bricks or materials that can imitate this facing. Others try to escape standards and disguise brick walls in any known way.

There is no dispute about tastes, since everyone has their own vision of beauty. Therefore, we will consider several options for facades decorated with bricks, but in different interpretations and styles.

Universal brick facade

Brick is such a versatile material that it is even used to decorate houses with columns, arches, stucco and other facade decor. At the same time, the building will not lose its attractiveness, but on the contrary, it will sparkle with new colors, and at the same time it will not look vulgar or tasteless.

A correctly selected shade of cladding elements, as well as texture, will only emphasize the taste and status of the owner of the house. Therefore, turning to brickwork as a facade update, you should not worry about whether the structure will be as beautiful. No, it won't, but it will be completely new!

Painted bricks, external walls in different colors

By using paints and varnishes transform the brick facade, which is already boring. But be careful when choosing this method of decorating a private building. The paint penetrates deeply and unevenly into the structure of the brick, and it will be extremely difficult to get rid of it.

As you know, paint is not a material with a long service life, therefore, having painted a brick facade once, it must be maintained in an attractive form every 3-5 years, depending on the type of paint chosen. In addition, some types cover the facade with a durable film that does not allow moisture to pass from the interior. This will negatively affect the base material.

If this option is suitable and does not frighten the owner, then there is no limit to imagination. On construction market a large number of facade paints are already tinted or white, which lend themselves to pigmentation. The pigment is chosen from the same manufacturer as the paint.

No more than three shades are combined on the facade. Window and door openings, a porch, etc. are distinguished with a contrasting color. To choose a color scheme, they will use advice from fashionable construction publications, their Internet counterparts or professional designers.

In all variants there are photo galleries where they select a ready-made version or create a completely new one at the request of the client. It is quite possible to paint it with your own hands, but if the building is large, two-story, then it is better to resort to the services of a professional team with the appropriate tools and equipment.

Whitewashed brick

One of the options for coloring the facade is the application of whitewash on the brick. This way of decorating external houses will allow you to achieve the aging effect. Whitewashing of bricks was often used in English villages, so those who are interested in this style cannot do without whitewash.

For whitewashing, use a mixture of lime and table salt. If you add a small amount of white cement, the layer will be stronger and last longer.

Energy efficient brick

The energy efficiency of this material lies in the ability to heat up for a long time, and then give off heat to the environment for a long time. Thus, we have the following:

• In the summer, the facade warms up in the sun, but the heat does not penetrate into the premises, therefore the coolness remains there.
• In winter, heated interior walls I do not let the heat go outside, but at the same time they keep the heat inside the rooms for a long time.

Buildings with a long service life require wall insulation. Therefore, when laying decorative bricks, a small gap is left between the main and outer (decorative wall). Insulating material is placed in this gap, taking into account the ventilated gap.

If this is not done, then moisture will accumulate in thermal insulation material, which will lead to destruction. In addition, the walls inside the rooms will be wet. And if you leave the gap, then you do not need to ventilate the room additionally.

Natural beauty

For the manufacture of facing bricks, synthetic materials are rarely used. Therefore, such a cladding remains naturally and absolutely safe for human health, as well as for the surrounding nature... If dyes are added to create the finish in bright colors, then they are rather natural of mineral origin.

Naturalness is always in vogue, and now, when the world around us is stuffed with synthetic substances, you want to close yourself in a country cottage or city one-story house from natural ingredients.

Playing with texture

Brick works well with different materials that have an original texture. No difference wooden roof tiles or decorative elements on the facade made of metal, stone path or plinth and corners finished with stone. The brick facade will emphasize the originality of the finish.

You can finish several elements with plaster and leave a clean facade, which looks good. In addition, brick blends well different types and shades on the same house. You just need to skillfully select a separate area.

Mix shingles and bricks

If there is a large number of green spaces around the house with an attic, then raw brick is suitable as a decoration for the facade. At the same time, the roof is covered with unpainted tiles. This way of decorating the facade will create coziness throughout the site, and convey the spirit of the forest thicket.

Handmade brick

Now all bricks are made in factories and in large batches. Previously, everything was done by hand without the use of complex techniques. If you want to highlight your house from the total mass of buildings, you can do everything the old fashioned way.

Knead the solution, pour into wooden molds and burn over the fire. Washing out irregularities on the bricks with sand, create an original velvety texture. Such blocks will aesthetically embellish the facade and convey the spirit of the ancient mansion.

Modern brick

The versatility of the brick facade allows it to be used for modern buildings in the minimalist style. Various colors and textures are suitable for creating an accent both on the facade and indoors. In addition, there is nothing wrong with completely revealing the facade.

Should you do the cladding yourself?

The brick laying process is quite complicated. Without experience in this area, it is almost impossible to make a flat wall horizontally and vertically. Moreover, there are also features of the formation of an external decorative wall. It is necessary to make flexible connections, leave ventilation gaps between the elements. It is very difficult to control everything. Moreover, the work will not proceed quickly.

Therefore, you should not tempt fate and transfer expensive bricks and mortar, but immediately hire a professional team of bricklayers. Finding good employees will also be difficult. Ask your friends or neighbors for advice, maybe there are such people in their environment. And be prepared for the fact that the cost of performing the work is also not cheap.

Despite the fact that brick wall cladding is one of the most costly and time consuming, it is still in demand for private houses. A brick house has always been a sign of respectability and solidity, and the cladding allows you to achieve complete identity when using other materials for the facade.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of brick cladding include not only externally attractive properties. The cladding plays the role of protecting the main wall material from the effects of destructive climatic factors.

When comparing facing brick with facade plaster, then it has a much higher strength to mechanical stress.

Compared to vinyl siding or painted trapezoidal sheet (as part of ventilated facades), any type of brick withstands solar ultraviolet radiation better. And the facing of the facade with stone tiles or porcelain stoneware can collapse due to poor adhesion of the walls and mortar.

Finishing with facing bricks allows the facade to be insulated at the same time. Of course, the thermal insulation properties of dense materials are low, but the use of hollow bricks and a layer of insulation make it possible to achieve high level energy savings for heating in winter and air conditioning in summer.

The disadvantages, in addition to the cost and labor intensity of the work, include a high load on the foundation, which must be taken into account when designing or renovating a house.

Features of wall cladding made of different materials

Facing masonry runs in half a brick. The self-supporting capabilities of such a false wall are low. It must be literally tied to the facade. To do this, use different materials: ready-made flexible ties, anchors, nails, sheet metal strips, masonry mesh.

The method of bonding, the need for insulation, the presence of a ventilated gap and air vents depend on many properties of the facade material: strength, vapor permeability, holding strength of fasteners, dimensions of building blocks, etc.

Brick

In this case, everything is relatively simple. Both the wall and the cladding have almost the same parameters, including the dimensions of the brick. The most common fastening method is ready-made flexible connections made of metal or fiberglass. A flexible connection is a rod with seals at the ends in the form of "powder" from quartz sand(to improve adhesion). Such a rod is fastened with one end in the horizontal assembly seam of the wall, and with the other in the cladding. If the seams do not match, then in the facing masonry, the rod is placed in the vertical seam. Such cladding usually takes place simultaneously with insulation. For a newly built brick house, this allows you to reduce the thickness external walls and the cumulative load on the foundation.

If expanded polystyrene is used as insulation, then the ventilation gap is not needed. Using mineral wool there is a need to weather water vapor from it. Therefore, from the side of the facing layer, a washer with a retainer is put on the flexible connection, which presses the insulation mat to the wall of the house and leaves a ventilated gap between it and the cladding. That is, the flexible connection also serves as a fastener for insulation (you do not need to use umbrella dowels, as in curtain walls).

The number of connections per 1 sq. m walls - 4 pcs. (in openings - along the perimeter after 30 cm), the minimum penetration into the seam is 90 mm, the maximum is 150 mm.

Cinder block or cinder block monolithic houses

The cinder block belongs to lightweight concrete. Depending on the voidness, the material can act in different qualities, including as thermal insulation. Its main disadvantages are its unattractive appearance, low resistance to precipitation and wind loads. Therefore, insulation of a house from a cinder block is usually not required, but cladding is required. The best material for this is considered to be a brick with a low water absorption (for example, clinker or hand-molded).

The vapor permeability of the brick is lower than that of the cinder block. As a result, the dew point in cold weather can "get" exactly on the cinder block, and water vapor through the cladding will not be able to erode. To prevent the main wall from dampening and collapsing, a ventilation gap and air vents are needed at the bottom of the cladding (at the base) and above (under the roof).

As a flexible connection, a masonry mesh is used, one edge of which is fixed to the wall on a bracket and a dowel, and the second (in the masonry seam of the cladding) should not come out. The grid is laid in every fifth row of brickwork.

Aerated concrete building blocks

Despite the differences in the production technology of aerated concrete and foam concrete, they have similar bearing and thermal insulation properties, there are only differences in vapor permeability (aerated concrete has higher). Facing for aerated concrete blocks is a must - the reasons are, in principle, the same as those of the cinder block.

As for the cinder block, insulation is not necessary, but a ventilation gap is needed. Therefore, the method of attaching the facing masonry to the wall is the same.

Wooden houses

This is perhaps the most rare case brick cladding.

It is almost impossible to brick a blockhouse from a log because of the characteristic corner cuts of the rims. Log houses do not have such a problem, but the advisability of facing is very doubtful - the acquired advantages are much less than the disadvantages.

Frame (or frame-panel) wooden houses are attractive due to the absence of "wet" works, the speed of construction and relatively low cost. Brick cladding is possible and practiced, but negates these advantages.

In any case, insulation when facing a wooden house with a brick, in principle, is not necessary, and a gap is necessary - the lack of ventilation and weathering of excess moisture will lead to rotting of the tree. In addition, the walls must be treated with antiseptics.

If warming is carried out, then it is carried out using mineral wool mats, which have high vapor permeability. The installation of the insulation is carried out on the lathing using the technology of ventilated facades - with laying on top of a windproof vapor-permeable membrane.

When insulating, it is not a masonry mesh that is used as a flexible connection, but pieces of wire attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws (at the rate of 4 pieces per 1 sq. M).

Preparatory stage for old houses

For old houses, it is necessary to strengthen the old one or arrange a separate foundation that can hold additional brickwork.

1. Gain strip foundation... A trench is being dug along the perimeter just below the depth of the old foundation. A cushion of rubble and sand is poured onto the bottom, a formwork is placed on the side of the ground, the wall of the old foundation is cleaned from dirt, primed with a bitumen primer, holes are drilled for steel bars, to which the reinforcement cage is knitted. Flooded concrete mix without forgetting about the ducts of the subfloor or the windows of the basement.

2. The expansion of the slab foundation is carried out using the same technology as the strip foundation.

3. If the house stands on a pile or columnar foundation, then a similar one is made for facing.

Another feature of the cladding of old houses is the "bad" geometry of the walls. As a result of shrinkage and settlement of the house, there is usually a deviation of levels. If shrinkage is more pronounced in wooden houses(especially from materials with natural humidity), then the draft depends on the type of soil and the weight of the structure. Therefore, when strengthening the foundation, this factor must be taken into account.

Everything is simple with the "horizon". And the "vertical" for new corners and walls must be counted from the point of maximum deviation of the old facade (taking into account the width of the masonry and the thickness of the insulation).

Types of facing bricks

Facing (or facing) ceramic bricks differ from ordinary ones in improved appearance, including great choice colors and textured surface. As a rule, this is a slotted (or hollow) brick that has good thermal insulation properties.

Hollow clinker bricks are initially considered facing. It has high mechanical strength and very low water absorption.

Hand-molded bricks are chosen for the retro style. High price and, as a rule, a corpulent format.

Hyper-pressed bricks have high decorative properties, but are produced exclusively as solid ones.

The last two types are used either for wall cladding with high thermal insulation properties (for example, warm ceramics or cellular concrete), or together with the installation of a layer of insulation.

Facing brick laying

The cladding brick laying algorithm is standard - from the corners, which are used as beacons, with periodic checking of compliance with the levels.

A calibrated square metal bar is used as a template for making a masonry seam of the same thickness - this is one of the simplest methods.

If the cladding passes without insulation and ventilation, then the solution is applied not only to the brick, but also to the wall itself.

If a masonry mesh is used as a connection to the wall, then reinforcement is not done. In other cases, every fifth seam is reinforced with a mesh or two rods laid in parallel.

It is better to join the joining in the same plane with the wall surface so that water does not collect in the seam, but flows down.

The use of colored masonry mortar makes the cladding more attractive.