What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Nowadays, many stoves have been created that use firewood as fuel. A special place among them is occupied by the so-called rocket (rocket) units, which have specific features that are indispensable in certain operating conditions. Let's talk about them.

The rocket is a real miracle unit!

The rocket stove is a heating and cooking system that operates on wood, is famous for its high technical performance and has simple design... The principle of operation of such a unit long burning It is based on the fact that the gases formed during the combustion of fuel enter a special bell, in which they completely burn out. Due to this, the temperature indicators of the stove increase significantly, and the pressure value decreases. Moreover, the soot in the jet heating system is not formed.

The combustion cycles of heated gases are repeated continuously (while the furnace is fired). This leads to the transition of the system to the maximum thrust mode. Its specific value is determined by the features homemade unit... If the heating device is properly assembled, the temperature in its bell can reach 1200 ° C. In this case, all used fuel burns out without residue. It is also important that the heated hood can be used as a hob. On it you can dry fruits, heat water, cook food.

Initially, the stove of interest to us was designed for use in difficult (for example, field) conditions. Because of this, special requirements were put forward for its design. The result is a unique unit that:

• makes it possible to cook food in areas where there is no gas and electricity;
• heats the room with high quality;
• conserves heat for 6-8 hours (minimum) after the firewood burns out;
• has a high efficiency;
• quite safe to use.

In addition, the rocket has a design that allows a new portion of firewood to be fed into the firebox without stopping the combustion process. The operation of a unit with similar capabilities, of course, pleases any person. This explains the high popularity of the described heating systems both among lovers of outdoor activities and among ordinary summer residents who need unpretentious and efficient stoves.

An important point. If you plan to create the simplest jet unit with your own hands, it can only be heated with dry wood. Wet wood can cause back draft. However, the kindling of more complex rockets is not recommended to be done with damp wood, since they will not be able to provide the high temperature required for burning heated gases.

The described heating devices must not be dropped without supervision. We melted the stove, wait until the fuel is completely burned out. Another drawback of rocket equipment is the impossibility of heating private baths with it (in particular, their steam rooms). This is due to the fact that the jet unit gives very little infrared heat, namely, it is required for the adoption of bath procedures. There are probably no other disadvantages to missiles.

Types of jet heating systems - what do you need?

The simplest rockets are made from almost any tin container. A portable stove can be made from a bucket, a can where the paint was stored, and so on. These systems are ideal for outdoor picnics and are often used on construction sites. Simple ovens are not suitable for space heating. They are used exclusively for cooking, heating water. A rocket made from a bucket can be drowned with a small torch, dry cones and foliage, bunches of branches. In such a stove, combustion products do not have time to form woody combustible gas. They immediately go into the chimney.

More complex heating structures are created from an old gas cylinder or from a metal barrel and brick. These stoves are necessarily equipped with a riser to increase the draft and a horizontal flue gas duct. There are also rockets made entirely of bricks. They can be equipped with several chimneys at once and are used for heating large rooms and floor heating. And if you wish, you can actually build even a full-fledged stove stove.

We will tell you how to independently make all the indicated types of reactive heating devices. And let's start our master class with the simplest - with the manufacture of an elementary garden-camping stove from two tin containers (buckets, cans). In addition to them, we need steel clamps with a section of 10 cm, metal corners, a grinder, a stainless steel chimney pipe, scissors for metal, crushed stone. The scheme of work will be as follows:

1. 1. We take two buckets. From a container of a smaller volume (diameter) we make a cover for our rocket. Cut a hole in the bucket. It is necessary for the organization of the chimney.
2. 2. In the larger bucket, cut another hole at the bottom. We will connect the firebox to it. We perform all operations with metal scissors, bending the formed petals (pieces of tin) inward.
3. 3. We construct a forward flow from the pipe and corners. We insert it into the bucket, and then, using a clamp, we connect it with the bent petals.
4. 4. We fill up with gravel the space between the forward flow and the body of the heating device. This building material will play the role of a heat accumulator and at the same time a heat insulator.
5. 5. We put the second bucket on the stove.
6. 6. We bend a small burner out of the wire, on which it will be possible to install dishes with water and food.

It is advisable to paint the portable rocket with any paint with high level heat resistance. After drying, we can use an elementary cooking stove. Note! The rocket is ignited through a branch pipe extending from the forward flow.

A stove made of a barrel and bricks - both cooks and heats!

The construction of a stationary rocket launcher requires a noticeably large investment of money and time. We prepare such materials and tools: chimney metal pipe, red (necessarily heat-resistant) brick, shovel, old barbecue, metal brush, trowel, cement and sand (it is better to buy a ready-to-use mixture of these materials right away), reinforcing bars, a little perlite, adobe and expanded clay, heat-resistant paint, a barrel of 200 liters. We proceed to the construction of a brick oven and a metal barrel:

1. 1. Dig a hole in the floor with a depth of 0.3–0.5 m. In it we will hide a horizontal chimney, without which the rocket system will not work.
2. 2. We fire a 200-liter barrel, thoroughly clean it. We mount a flange in the tank, which will connect it to the chimney. After that, we apply several layers of heat-resistant paint to the container. We use the barrel prepared in this way as the hood of the heating unit.
3. 3. We equip the foundation. We make a simple formwork of boards, deepen 2-3 bricks into the ground at the site of the furnace installation. Place reinforcing bars on top. Then we lay bricks in the lower part of the combustion chamber (along the entire perimeter). We fill the structure with cement-sand mortar.

After the fill is dry, proceed to the laying. It is done with. We bring the first tier of masonry up. We only need to leave the hole for the firebox. On the second line, we form a channel (lower) heating structure... It should be closed on the third tier, and in such a way that we have two holes left. One of them is intended for the vertical channel, the second is directly for the combustion chamber.

Next, we mount a tee in the barrel to clean the chimney. It is not necessary to install it, but it is advisable if you plan to use the stove for a long time. After that we put in a vertical channel. The rising section of the structure (we take about 18 cm in diameter) is laid out using the "boot" technology. Then we put on the old water heater on the ascending part of the stove. All the voids that remain after this operation are filled with perlite.

Now we cover the base of the casing of the rocket unit with clay and surround the base of our structure with sandbags. Fill all the remaining free areas with expanded clay. We connect the chimney-pipe to the structure, turn over the barrel-casing and pull it over the ascending part of the stove. The end of the work - lining the chimney with sand in bags and filling them with expanded clay. Then we give the structure the required shape using clay (chamotte), mount a barbecue grill in the neck of a homemade rocket and cover it with a lid.

The last step is to seal the existing joints on the oven. In principle, we can already do a test run of our design. But experts advise to additionally bring a separate air duct from the street to the stove. It is important. The heating rocket requires a lot of air to function properly. It won't be enough indoors. And an outdoor air duct is guaranteed to solve this problem.

Rocket heating from a cylinder - we will work with a welding machine

For the construction of the rocket, we choose a heat-resistant and non-explosive cylinder. An all-metal 50-liter tank in which propane is stored is optimal for these purposes. Such a balloon has standard sizes: height - 85 cm and section - 30 cm.

These parameters are ideal for self-made ovens. The modest dimensions and low weight of the cylinder do not make it difficult to work with it. At the same time, it is allowed to burn any wood fuel in the finished rocket. You can also take propane cylinders for 27 or 12 liters. They make compact portable stoves. But the power indicators of such devices are small. It is impractical to use them for heating rooms, country houses.

For the construction of a furnace, in addition to a cylinder, you will need:

• steel pipes with a cross section of 15, 7 and 10 cm (the first two will go to the organization of a vertical internal channel, the third - to the chimney);
• profile tubular product 15x15 cm (we will make a loading compartment and a firebox from it);
• 3 mm thick sheet of metal;
• dense (100 and more kg / cubic meters) fiber from basalt (it will perform the function thermal insulation material).

Various drawings for creating a stove from a cylinder are presented on the Internet. We propose to be guided by this scheme.

The algorithm for manufacturing a rocket balloon launcher is simple. First, we bleed all the gas from the container. Then we turn out the valve, fill the tank with water (to the top) and cut off its upper part along the seam. We cut out the windows on both sides of the gas cylinder, which are required for connecting the chimney and installing the fuel chamber.

After that, we insert the shaped tubular product into the container, connect it to the channel (vertical). The latter is taken out through the bottom of the tank. Next, we carry out all the necessary actions, focusing on the presented drawing, as well as on the video that we offer to home craftsmen for review.

At the end of the work, we weld the cut off part of the container in its place, we analyze all the seams obtained for permeability. Uncontrolled air should not be allowed to enter the structure made. If the seams are reliable, we connect the chimney to the homemade system. We weld the legs to the bottom of the rocket balloon. We install the stove on a steel sheet with parameters 1.5x1 m. The unit is ready for use!

Stove stove - for lovers of special comfort

The heating unit with a place to sleep and rest is equipped with a special heat exchanger. Its channels are interconnected. Make them out of non-combustible materials... The heat exchanger is installed under the plane of the bed. The design of such a furnace is very sophisticated and relatively complex. The bed itself is a surface made of brick or stone and clay. When the stove is on, the heated gas moves through the heat exchange channels, gives off heat upward, and then is removed through the flue gas duct outside the house. The height of the chimney is within 3–3.5 m. The stove is mounted at the edge of the bed (on one side). In most cases it is equipped with a cooking surface. A detailed drawing of this system is presented below.

Furnace elements in the diagram:

• blower - 1a;
• fuel bunker - 1b;
• channel for secondary air - 1v;
• fire tube - 1g;
• riser (primary chimney) - 1d.

The fuel chamber is supplied with a blank cover, the blower - with a special regulator for adjusting the amount of supplied air. The flame tube has a length of 15–20 cm. The secondary air channel is required for complete combustion of gases. The riser section is 7–10 cm. The 10 cm diameter chimney is recommended for cases when we want to get the maximum rocket power. A riser with a cross section of 7 cm provides an optimal indicator of the efficiency of the stove. The flue pipe and the primary chimney need high-quality thermal insulation.

We will make the rocket body from a gas cylinder, although a metal barrel can also be used. Under the housing cover (2a), the primary chimney supplies heated air, and the heated gases leaving the riser heat the cooking device (2b). Other body elements:

• lower part (2d);
• heat exchange channels (2d);
• shell - metal insulation of the chimney (2v);
• exit to the cleaning chamber (2e).

The flue pipe must be absolutely tight throughout its length. At a height of 1/3 of the upper end of the drum (body), the gases are already at a low temperature. They have time to cool down. Approximately from the indicated height, the rocket-bed is footed (up to the floor). This process is understood as the thermal insulation of the furnace with special compounds. The second cleaning chamber in the diagram (3a) is needed to remove carbon deposits from the hog (4) - the heat exchanger. It must be equipped with a sealed door (3b). Now that we have figured out the design of the couch, we can proceed to its construction.

Building a rocket with a place to sleep - the first steps are the most important!

Before starting work, we knead all the necessary compositions:

• Furnace clay (designation 5b in the diagram), which is combined with crushed stone. This composition plays the role of the main heat insulator.
• Saman (5a). It is a composition of straw and any clay at hand, diluted with water to a relatively thick consistency.
• Sown sand (5g).
• Heat-resistant lining (5c). It is made from equal parts of chamotte sand and clay.
• Clay of medium fat content (5d). It is used for laying the rocket.

We make a bed for our couch. In fact, we need to knock down high-strength shields under the bed and directly under the stove. We make the frame of the structures from wooden blocks 10x10 cm. We make the cells of the frame with dimensions of 60x120 cm (for the bed) and 60x90 cm (for the heating installation). Then we sew the resulting skeleton with a 4-centimeter. And the front of the couch can be finished later with sheets of drywall.

Before installation, wood products should be treated with Biocide, after which two layers of water emulsion should be applied to them.

We will lay 4 mm thick basalt cardboard on the floor where we will place the heating rocket. In shape and geometric indicators, it must be similar to the characteristics of the bed. Place an iron roofing sheet on top of the basalt lining. In front of the firebox from under the unit, it will begin to go out by about 25 cm. We mount the previously made bed in a place prepared for it. On the wall at a height of 13 cm above the level of the bench (at one of its ends) we punch a hole. It is needed for the chimney device.

The next stage is the installation of the formwork along the perimeter of the bed and the filling of the installed structure with adobe. We carefully level the surface of the mixture using the rule. We wait 14–20 days until the adobe hardens. During this time, it is possible to make the body of the heating structure from a gas cylinder according to the previously described scheme. The combustion parts of the rocket (blower, combustion channel, chamber) are welded into a single structure with a container from under the gas and coated with a heat-resistant lining. Important! The composition is applied in a continuous layer only at the bottom. We do not process the upper part and sides of the structure with a solution.

Next, we mount another formwork under the area where the rocket will stand. It will allow us to make a heat-resistant heat shield for the stove. The height of the formwork is about 10 cm. We fill it with a mixture of crushed stone and oven clay. Then we do one by one:

1. 1. Shell. We bend it from a sheet of steel or use a ready-made pipe with a cross section of 15–20 cm.
2. 2. Furnace structure.
3. 3. Cleaning chamber. This element is made of 1.5 mm galvanized steel. On the side we cut an opening with a cross section of 16-18 cm. The chimney will subsequently enter into it.

Completion of work - a warm bed will turn out to be great!

We put a drum from a gas cylinder on the primary chimney. We spread oven clay on the bottom of the installed body, forming an inclined surface with a spatula (about 7 °), which is directed towards the window of the cleaning compartment. Then we put a metal round timber on the chimney. It should be pressed into the clay composition. Then we pull the shell over the riser and coat it with medium fat clay. The next steps are as follows:

1. 1. We lining the chimney from the inside. We use sand. It should be covered with separate layers. We moisten and ram each of them. The total number of layers is 7. Apply 5 cm of medium-fat clay on top of the sand.
2. 2. We put the cleaning box, covering its bottom and side surfaces with clay. We mount the opening of the transition channel into the hole of the drum, press it down as hard as possible. We close all the remaining gaps with clay. It is necessary to achieve complete tightness of this stove unit.
3. 3. Along the contour of the (external) bed, we mount the next formwork. It should rise about 9 cm above the edge of the hog hole. Fill the formwork with adobe mixture.
4. 4. We stretch the corrugated pipe along the entire length of the rocket-bed. We connect one end of the corrugated product to the cleaning compartment.
5. 5. Lay the fixed corrugated pipe in a spiral and insert its other end into the chimney outlet opening, securing the junction with a clay compound.
6. 6. We process the hog along the entire length with adobe solution, we compact this covering.
7. 7. We fix the housing and cleaning chamber covers with bolts, under which we install rubber gaskets.
8. 8. Coat the drum with adobe (do not touch only the upper part) with a layer of about 10 cm.

After about 17 days, the adobe will dry out. We can remove the formwork, apply a special enamel to the drum that can withstand heating up to 750 ° C. Then experts advise to treat the adobe surface with acrylic-based varnish (preferably in two layers). Such a coating will protect the structure from moisture and make the stove look very attractive.

The heated bed is done. We test our structure before starting its full operation. The check is carried out in an elementary way. We put some paper in the firebox, set it on fire, monitor the behavior of the rocket. If everything is fine, there are no frightening sounds, we put firewood on. After a while, the unit will hum. At this moment, close the furnace blower. We wait. When the buzz is replaced by a gentle whisper (the soft sound of a working stove), we open the blower. Next, we use the heating installation for its intended purpose.

Drawings and videos of the rocket furnace required for DIY installation

Do-it-yourself reactive furnace: diagram, drawings, step-by-step instructions for making a rocket furnace, etc. + video

The rocket or jet oven is the result of a deviation from the tradition of making room heating equipment. It is considered an economical heat generator, the design of which is elementary. Therefore, many are thinking about building a jet furnace with their own hands.

Description, advantages and disadvantages of the rocket furnace

A heat generator for heating air in a room is called a rocket oven or a jet oven, since during operation, in the event of an excessive intake of air, it emits special sounds. This noise can be mistaken for a roar jet engine... In normal mode, the equipment operates with a barely audible rustling sound.

The rocket stove serves as a device for home heating and cooking. It takes about 6 hours to burn one batch of firewood in such equipment, more than in a standard metal stove. The reason for this is the creation of a heat generator based on an overhead combustion furnace.

The flame from the jet furnace may burst

The advantages of the rocket furnace include:

• independence from fuel energy;
• simplicity of design, consisting of available parts, connected in minutes;
• the ability to provide a lot of heat, despite the quality of the loaded fuel.

The jet furnace also has some disadvantages:

• manual control, which implies constant monitoring of equipment operation;
• danger of getting burned, because the walls of the equipment become extremely hot;
• inexpediency of using in a bath, since it will not be possible to warm it up.

Views

The unit, which emits a rocket hum during operation, happens:

• portable (unit from metal pipes, bucket or gas cylinder); Portable rocket furnaces are mass-produced by the industry
• stationary (created from fireclay bricks and metal containers); Such an assembly is more difficult to build than a metal furnace
• equipment for heating the air with a bench. The bed is equipped behind the rear wall of the oven

Portable structures are made in large batches, because they are used for hiking. The basis of these heat generators is a pipe made up of several sections.

True, such structures, unlike units based on fireclay bricks, are not reliable. The walls of the refractory blocks increase the heat transfer of the reactive furnace.

If desired, you can add a couch or bed decorated with clay or sawdust to it.

Details and operation of a reactive heat generator

An elementary rocket furnace is a device of two pipe fragments connected by a 90-degree bend.

The combustion chamber in this heat generator is usually a zone in the horizontal part of the structure.

But sometimes the fuel is put into the vertical section of the apparatus, for which the rocket furnace is constructed from two pipes of different lengths, mounted vertically and connected by a common horizontal channel.

Primary and secondary air flows through the furnace

The operation of a jet furnace is based on two actions: the unhindered passage of wood gases through the pipe and the afterburning of gases generated during the combustion of fuel.

Chips and firewood are placed in the furnace of this heat generator after a highly flammable material like paper has ignited there. A container with water or other contents is placed on the open section of the pipe.

At the same time, a small space is left between the structure and the installed container, which is necessary to create traction.

The processes taking place inside a stationary jet furnace resemble the work of pyrolysis heating units.

Calculation of parameters (tables)

The volume of the stove should be determined with knowledge of the matter, because it is he who affects the power and the amount of heat generated by the heating equipment.

When calculating the dimensions of jet heating equipment, use the indicator of the inner diameter of the drum D, the value of which can fluctuate within 300-600 mm. You also need to know the area cross section drum.

To determine this indicator of the rocket furnace, use the formula: S = 3.14 * D2 / 4.

The main dimensions of the jet furnace are shown in the table:

Particular importance is attached to the length of the flue with the stove bench. The maximum permissible indicators are shown in the table:

The volume of the secondary ash chamber is also important indicator depending on the volume of the drum and the primary chimney.

Construction raw materials for the construction of a custom kiln

The production of jet heating equipment will require:

• barrels with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 0.6 meters, an empty bottle of liquefied gas or tin buckets to build a furnace drum;
• square or round pipes made of steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm, which are needed to create a blower, combustion chamber and primary chimney;
• fireclay crushed stone and kiln clay as heat-insulating materials;
• adobe, which serves as an outer coating layer;
• fireclay bricks;
• sand from the bottom of the river;
• cuts of zinc-coated steel or aluminum sheets for the manufacture of lids and doors;
• asbestos or basalt cardboard, performing the tasks of a compactor.

Of the tools for the construction of a rocket furnace, you will need welding machine... And if you plan to make heating equipment out of bricks, then you will have to take:

• Master OK;
• mortar blade;
• hammer pick;
• jointing;
• acute-angled sledgehammer;
• level;
• plumb line;
• roulette.

Preparation for the assembly of heating equipment

When choosing a place for a rocket stove, they are guided by some rules:

• reactive heating equipment is placed only in a room with an area of ​​at least 16 m²;
• installation of equipment will be easier without floorboards under the oven;
• it is forbidden to place wood beams over a structure that gives heat;
• if it is assumed that the chimney will go through the ceiling, then the heating equipment is placed in the middle of the house;
• the heat generator cannot be installed near the outer contour of the house, otherwise the room will lose heated air;
• it is forbidden to place the jet device near the walls and partitions of their wooden materials.

To make it convenient to add fuel to the jet heating equipment, it is more reasonable to put it with its front side opposite the entrance. It is important to leave at least a meter of unoccupied area around the rocket furnace.

V small house builders advise to set aside a place for the stove in the corner. In this case, the firebox should be directed in one direction, and the stove bench (if it is made) - in the other.

The oven stands on a special platform that protects the floor from high temperatures.

Having found a suitable site for a rocket furnace, they begin to prepare it for construction work. If boards are laid on the floor in the house, then in the place where the equipment will be installed, they will need to be removed. Under the opened floor, they dig a hole, the bottom of which is necessarily pressed.

Before construction works a special solution should be mixed. It consists of sand and clay, combined in a 1: 1 ratio. So much water will be required for the construction raw materials to acquire the consistency of sour cream, that is, ¼ part of the amount of dry ingredients.

Step-by-step instructions for making your own hands

If it is planned to make a rocket furnace from a gas cylinder, then you can not be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction materials are quite simple:

1. from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters, the upper part is cut off in order to build a kind of cap;

   The balloon is cut from the top and bottom

2. focusing on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is gas bottle, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (firebox);

   Dimensions are in mm

3. the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleaned of organic matter;
4. to give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which implies the use of bricks, you need to act differently:

1. The zone for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To make the base strong, it is recommended to lay reinforcement mesh or metal rods in it;

   The platform will harden in about two days

2. The structure is poured with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a solid line, creating a platform for the oven. After that, the walls of the structure are formed, exposing several rows of brick blocks;
3. The lower channel of the structure is equipped, while one line of bricks is laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the opening of the firebox open;

   The two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction must be open

4. They find a body from an old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. At the bottom of the resulting pipe, a flange is installed through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. Parts are required to be connected to each other with a continuous weld;

   Work requires accuracy

5. An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a brush for metal and scrape off rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later - with a paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
6. The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to a side outlet - the future ash pan. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is mounted;
7. The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel with a height and width of 18 cm is formed inside the structure. In doing this, they constantly use the building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;

   The height of the pipe is determined in advance

8. The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are plugged with perlite. The lower area of ​​the vertical channel is sealed with wet clay, the function of which is to prevent the insulation material from spilling onto the floor;
9. A fuel tank is formed from the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut. A handle must be welded to it;
10. To improve the look, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over the perlite backfill;
11. They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out of stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The seamy side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side is filled with adobe mixture, which makes the surface perfectly flat;
12. A casing made of a metal barrel is placed on the previously created base. The lower branch pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
13. A channel from a corrugated pipe is brought to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;

    At this stage, the oven looks almost complete.

14. Carry out a test kindling of the furnace, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After that, the pipes of the heat exchanger are connected to the lower branch pipe mounted on a red brick platform;
15. The stove is supplemented with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with a refractory coating and an asbestos cord;
16. Using clay and adobe, the couch is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.

    The oven functions as a complete system

Improvement of the design

A couch with a gas flue inside is not the only option for modernizing the rocket furnace. The design can be improved with a water jacket connected to a heating system in which water is circulated. It is desirable to give this part of the structure the appearance of a coil created from a copper pipe twisting on a chimney.

This design gives even more warmth.

Another way to improve the reactive furnace is associated with the organization of the flow of heated secondary air into the fire tube. This will increase the efficiency of the heat generator, but will lead to deposition in the primary chimney large amounts of soot. Therefore, it is best to make sure that the drum cover can be removed if necessary.

Subtleties of operation of an unconventional furnace

The rocket furnace is heated by analogy with the upper combustion heat generator. It turns out that the kindling of equipment called a rocket should be carried out according to certain rules:

• the main raw material for the furnace of the unit should be laid only after a good heating of the structure, for which, first, sawdust or paper is placed in the blowing sector and set on fire;
• they must react to the muffling of the hum emanating from the furnace - they put a large batch of fuel into the combustion chamber, which will ignite on its own from the red-hot remnants of sawdust;
• the process is closely monitored, that is, after laying the firewood, the damper is fully opened, and after a while, when the equipment makes a hum, it is covered to obtain a sound similar to rustling;
• as necessary, the shutter is closed more and more, otherwise the firebox will fill with an excess volume of air, which will disrupt pyrolysis inside the flame tube and lead to the creation of a strong hum.

Since the jet furnace was originally designed for use in the field, its design is extremely simple. This makes it possible to cope with the manufacture of the unit with the usual home master... But, despite the apparent lightness, the rocket furnace is supposed to be assembled, taking into account the correct ratio of parameters. Otherwise, the equipment will turn out to be unproductive.

• Ksenia Zubkova
• Print

Source: //legkovmeste.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/otoplenie/reaktivnaya-pech-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself rocket oven - instructions!

Unfortunately, in our country almost no one knows about the rocket furnace. Meanwhile, such a design is extremely useful in a number of cases due to the almost complete absence of soot during operation and a high combustion temperature.

Reactive furnace

Rocket furnace

Today we will talk about how a do-it-yourself rocket oven is made.

Principle of operation

Hot gases instead of a chimney fall into a special hood, where they burn out (hence the absence of soot). In this case, the temperature rises even more, and the pressure, on the contrary, decreases. The cycle is constantly repeated and soon the furnace goes to the combustion mode with maximum thrust (the force of the latter depends on the design features and the quality of installation).

Rocket furnace

The temperature in the bell can reach 1200ᵒС, as a result of which all waste is burned almost without residue, and the exhaust consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Note! Thanks to this, the chimney can be laid under the floor or through some kind of heating structure (a couch, for example, or a bench). What's more, the hot hood can be used for heating water, cooking food, drying fruit, etc.

Reactive furnaces

The benefits include:

• high efficiency;
• no soot;
• high fever;
• the possibility of using cones, damp branches, dry plant stems as fuel - almost everything burns at a temperature of 1200ᵒ;
• low fuel consumption - about four times lower than the standard design.

Types of rocket furnaces

There are several types of rocket (or jet, as they are also called) ovens.

1. Portable structures made of tin containers (paint cans, buckets, etc.). Great helpers on a construction site or on a hike that can be crafted in just a few hours.
2. Furnaces made of refractory bricks and metal barrels for heating heat-consuming masses. They are distinguished by a horizontal chimney installed underground and an external riser to ensure draft.
3. Fully brick structures are used for air heating of the floor. Consist of several chimneys at once.

Note! Due to the complexity of the third option, this article will only consider the first two.

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

In this case, the work traditionally begins with the preparation of everything necessary.

Making a reactive furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, drawing

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

For construction you will need:

• fireclay brick;
• steel barrel for 200 l;
• chimney pipe;
• metal brush;
• old barbecue;
• fire resistant paint;
• bayonet shovel;
• expanded clay;
• fittings;
• adobe;
• perlite;
• cement mortar;
• trowel. Making a reactive furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 2. Preparation

Step 1. A pit is pulled out into the floor (if possible) with a depth of about 30-50 cm. This is necessary so that the level of the horizontal chimney does not rise too much.

Step 2. The steel barrel will serve as a lid for the oven. First, the barrel is fired and cleaned of soot with a metal brush, after which it is painted with refractory paint.

Note! The paint is applied only after the chimney outlet flange has been installed.

Stage 3. Foundation

Step 1. Formwork is being prepared for the future foundation.

Step 2. In the place where the firebox will be, several bricks go deep into the ground.

Step 3. Steel reinforcement is laid at the bottom.

Step 4. Bricks are laid around the lower point of the combustion chamber.

Step 5. The base is poured with concrete mortar.

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

Stage 4. Laying

After the solution has dried, you can start laying the rocket oven.

Note! To do this, only use refractory clay.

Step 1. On the first tier, the masonry rises up, leaving only an opening for the combustion chamber.

Step 2. On the second level, the lower furnace channel is formed.

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

Making a reactive kiln from bricks and metal barrels

Step 3. On the third, the channel is overlapped with masonry so that two holes are obtained - for the combustion chamber and the vertical channel.

Note! After laying bricks, you can not cut them off - they still have to be hidden with adobe and expanded clay.

Step 4. Preparation for laying the vertical channel. In addition to the barrel itself, this will require an old water heater of about 150 liters.

A flange is built into the barrel for connecting the chimney. It is also advisable to install a tee for cleaning the chimney here.

Step 5. The ascending part of the structure is placed using the "boot" method. The internal section of this part should be approximately 18 cm.

Step 6. A piece of hot water is put on the ascending part, and the voids between the walls are filled with perlite. The upper part of the perlite is sealed with chamotte clay.

Step 7. The base of the furnace is covered with sandbags, the base of the casing is coated with clay. The voids between the bags and the body are filled with expanded clay, after which the base is finished with the same clay.

Step 8. The chimney is connected, an inverted steel barrel is put on the ascending part.

Step 9. A trial run of the furnace is carried out, after which the barrel is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Manufacturing a reactive furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, a diagram

Stage 5. Chimney lining

Step 1. The chimney is lined with sandbags and covered with expanded clay.

Step 2. The structure is given the appropriate shape using fireclay clay.

Note! The rocket furnace needs a lot of oxygen during operation, so it is recommended to run an air duct from the street.

It remains only to install the old barbecue in the neck of the firebox and close it with a lid. The seams are filled with clay. That's it, the brick rocket oven is ready for use.

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket oven

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, scheme

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, foundation

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Making a camping-garden stove

In this design, as in the one described above, the principle of operation is to isolate the fire and direct heat energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Prepare everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket oven, you will need:

• two tin containers of different diameters;
• a pair of corners;
• steel clamps ø10 cm;
• pipe from of stainless steel for chimney;
• fine crushed stone;
• Bulgarian;
• scissors for metal. Making a camping-garden oven for dishes From wire we bend the burner for dishes

Stage 2. Assembly of the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the lid is not removed at the same time). In this case, it is better to bend the "petals" inward - this way the pipe will be more securely fixed.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut at the bottom of the other container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into "petals" with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a pair of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected to the petals there with a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the forward flow and the walls of the bucket is covered with fine gravel. The latter will perform two functions in the structure at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is put on the jet oven.

Step 6. A cooking plate is bent from a steel wire.

Note! Instead of a hotplate, you can install three bricks.

Step 7. It remains only to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, a direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Reactive mini oven

Reactive mini oven

Reactive mini oven

Reactive mini oven

Reactive mini oven

Reactive mini oven

Reactive mini oven

Reactive mini-oven, kindling

Rules for the operation of rocket furnaces

Rocket furnaces, as well as other long-burning designs, need to be launched onto a warm pipe. And if for the second variant of the stove this is not so important, then for the first a cold chimney will only lead to unnecessary combustion of fuel. For this reason, the structure needs preliminary heating - heating with sawdust, paper, etc.

It is also worth noting that the jet furnace is unable to self-adjust, so at first the blower opens completely, and is covered only after the structure begins to hum a lot. In the future, the access of oxygen gradually decreases.

About the rocket stove in the bath

Reactive wood stove with lounger

Many people were probably interested in the question - is it possible to use a jet oven in a bath? It would seem possible, because it is quite easy to equip a heater on a tire.

In reality, such a design is not suitable for a bath. For light steam, you first need to warm up the walls, and only then, after a while, the air. For the latter, the oven must be a hotbed of convection and heat radiation (IR). This is the problem - convection is clearly distributed in the rocket furnace, and the design does not provide for losses due to thermal radiation at all.

Do-it-yourself rocket oven

conclusions

Be that as it may, but today in the manufacture of rocket furnaces there is more intuition than real accurate calculations, therefore, this is an almost limitless field for creativity.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video instructions for making a rocket furnace.

- DIY jet oven

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/pech-raketa-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself rocket furnace made of long-burning brick: drawing, instructions, photo

A rocket stove made of bricks of long burning, despite the simplicity of the design, can solve a number of problems for owners of summer cottages and private houses. These include not only the functions of heating and cooking, but also the creation of an original interior and comfort in the room.

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, gaseous substances are released, which also decompose and turn into wood gas in the process, which has a high level of heat transfer during combustion.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools down and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In a rocket-type furnace, due to the horizontal channel, the gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool down, but burn out, giving off a large amount of heat.

In models of reactive heating devices of complex design, heated air and gas flows through a series of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under the hob, where it burns completely. For such a rocket, there is no need for additional inflation. The draft in them is created at the expense of the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the ascending flow.

Principle of operation

In this diagram, the principle of operation of a rocket oven with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Rocket furnaces long combustion have the following advantages:

• high efficiency - at least 85%;
• a high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
• the absence of soot - the exhaust during fuel combustion does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
• the ability to operate on solid fuel any kind;
• low consumption - the fuel consumption of the rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than that of a conventional stove under the same conditions: the combustion time and heating temperature;
• the possibility of arranging a warm bed;
• the duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

Such a stove has many advantages, but there are also bad sides.

The disadvantages include:

• manual way to control the heating device - fuel burns out quickly, and it needs to be reported regularly;
• the high heating temperature of some structural elements threatens to burn the owners in case of accidental contact;
• the heating rate does not allow the use of a rocket furnace for baths;
• the aesthetic component of such a device is not suitable for every interior;
• danger of carbon monoxide penetration into living rooms.

Materials (edit)

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket furnace are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. Plain red is usually used for laying the main body of the hull. oven brick... The firebox and the furnace bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If you plan to use high-calorific fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. Masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of construction for a long-burning rocket furnace, you will need to buy furnace accessories:

• blew;
• grate grates;
• furnace doors;
• intermediate cap;
• chimney pipe.

Instruments

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

• trowels for scooping and distributing mortar. It is more convenient to work with a tool with a handle slightly shifted to the side;
• picks or hammer - picks for cutting off individual parts of the brick;
• grinders with a diamond disc for cutting solid blocks into quarters and halves;
• mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
• twisted cord - mooring;
• building level;
• square and tape measure;
• shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for the preparation of mortar, concrete and a metal mesh for sifting the ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before making a rocket furnace, it is necessary to decide on the place of its installation, on the dimensions of the future structure, to develop a scheme. The technology of the masonry itself is quite simple, any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks at a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Seat selection

Before starting construction, first of all, they choose a place. Brick kilns rocket type is recommended to be placed closer to front door... In this case, the ash after cleaning will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the exit of the pipe there are no rafters located closer than 40 cm to the chimney.And yet, the stove should not adjoin outside wall at home so that expensive heat does not go to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement slurry under the influence high temperatures it cracks quickly, therefore, for laying brick heating devices, only a solution consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1: 2 or 1: 3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, filtered, and then sand is added. The resulting solution should be like thick sour cream in consistency. You can check the level of its viscosity in the following way:

• place a wooden stick or trowel handle in the mixture;
• take out the tool and shake well;
• check the thickness of the adhered layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required density can fill in all the irregularities of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Rocket kiln masonry with 20 bricks

Rocket furnace ordering for 20 bricks

An example of a brick rocket stove

Rocket oven masonry with a stove bench

A brick rocket oven, even equipped with a stove bench, has small size... The order presented in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without the use of metal products. Only the doors will be iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

After the completion of the masonry work, the homemade rocket furnace must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the firewood norm is put into the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleaned of damp spots. It may take from three to eight days to dry, depending on the size of the device. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Acceleration of drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished view

It is only necessary to launch a brick rocket furnace with a warm chimney. For a small device, this property is not so important, and a larger stove for a cold pipe only uses firewood in vain.

Therefore, before loading the fuel rate after a long break in operation, the rocket must be heated with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a blower with an open door. When the hum in the stove lowers the tonality or dies down, then you can load all the fuel into the furnace, it should ignite by itself from the already existing fire.

A rocket stove with a stove bench is not a fully self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the firebox with the standard amount of fuel, the blower door is left in the open position. After the stove starts humming strongly, it is covered to a position where the sound made is barely audible.

Only dry wood can be used to warm up the stove, wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to the desired temperature, which can lead to back draft.

Output

A brick reactive stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating device for small buildings, both temporary and permanent residence... This is explained by the simplicity of execution, the cheapness of the material, the duration of the autonomous operation and the high heat transfer of this design.

For lovers of country trips, avid fishermen and summer residents, a compact-sized mobile stove that easily fits into the trunk of a car will become indispensable. More recently, small collapsible ovens have appeared on the market, which have a very eloquent name "Robinson". It is quite possible to make a robinson oven with your own hands, especially since in this case it will cost even much cheaper than ready-made version... The advantage of self-manufacturing of this device is the possibility of upgrading, which will expand its capabilities.

It should be noted that stationary stoves for home and garden can be made on the basis of this simple design, so it can be called universal. If the goal is to independently manufacture a mobile oven of the "Robinson" type, then it is worth considering what configurations it can have, and only after that decide on the choice of model.

The design and principle of operation of the furnace

The Robinson stove has a so-called rocket design, and on the basis of which many models have been created, significantly differing from each other in size and even in functionality.

Conventional ones consist of a firebox connected to a chimney. The fuel hopper can be arranged horizontally, vertically or at an angle, connected directly to the chimney, or have a horizontal pipe section between these two elements, which lengthens the path of heated air and creates an additional heated surface.

This diagram shows different variants the location of the rocket furnace firebox:

1 - The vertical firebox is connected to the chimney with a piece of pipe, which lengthens the path of hot air from the firebox to the outlet. The connecting section can be used as a hob.

2 - The vertical firebox, located next to the pipe, allows the entire structure to heat up quickly enough.

3 - The furnace, fixed to the pipe at an angle, makes it more convenient to insert fuel.

4 - Two vertical furnaces located on the sides of a pipe with a larger cross-section. This design will help to heat the container with the contents much faster, installed on top of a special stand.

All rocket furnaces work roughly the same way. It consists in the fact that during the primary combustion of the fuel stored in the bunker-firebox, the resulting gases, which have a significant energy potential, are burned out in the vertical section of the pipe. For this, a special channel of secondary air was made, which provides its supply, a kind of "suction", directly to the base of the vertical pipe. That is, in this regard, the rocket furnace resembles work in a certain way. As a result, at the exit from the oven, in the upper part of it, the maximum temperature is reached, which can be used for heating water or cooking.

On top of the pipe, in the simplest configuration of the oven, a stationary or removable nozzle is mounted - for installing a container with water or other utensils.

The big advantage of a rocket furnace is its cost-effectiveness, since a large amount of fuel is not needed at all to achieve the desired result. In order for it to function well, a handful of dry chips or even dry grass is often enough.

Video: demonstration of the capabilities of the Robinson rocket oven

• The rocket stove, installed for space heating, works on the same principle. This design has been known since ancient times, and was traditional in the homes of many eastern peoples.

With the help of these stoves, they not only heated the room - their warm couch was used as heated sleeping places.

By the way, in our time, too, they are in no hurry to abandon this design and use it for heating in private houses. In this model of the stove, the section of the chimney is significantly lengthened and passes under the entire stove bench, which transfers the heat of the combustion products. It turns out a kind of large "battery" of heating, capable of heating a fairly large area.

• Another rocket kiln option could be a small brick structure folded into country house or at garden plot... Moreover, if it is laid out in the yard, as a temporary option, then the bricks do not even have to be fastened with mortar. The main thing is to observe the location of all its elements.

Such a furnace model is often suggested in presentations of survival communities, which are quite common, for example, in North America... Such a furnace can be made in any given conditions. In extreme cases, ordinary stones found nearby are suitable for its arrangement, and large gaps between them can be sealed with ordinary earth.

• A more complex, but also functional design, based on the same principle of operation, is a rocket stove-stove, which will become an indispensable assistant in the country or in a private house in the summer. The large surface of the stove will allow you to simultaneously cook several dishes or heat water, as well as save on electricity or other fuel, since in order for the stove to justify its purpose, even a large amount of firewood is not required.

The slab panel, hollow inside, passes incandescent gases through its entire space, which can heat it to very high temperatures. Then, the combustion products are discharged into the chimney located on the opposite side from the combustion hopper.

• But such a portable version of a camping stove has a very small size, since it is made from an ordinary galvanized bucket, which is usually covered with heat-resistant paint on top.

Inside the bucket, a structure of two pipes is installed, welded together and performing the functions of a firebox and a chimney. The inner space of the bucket, between its walls and pipes, is filled with sand (in field conditions), or fine-grained expanded clay. This kind of "lining" will provide heating of the vertical pipe in order to actively burn the pyrolysis gases in it. Thanks to this "layer", significantly less fuel is required to cook food or warm water.

It is very important to calculate the correct gap that should form between the container support (in this case, made in the form of a lattice) and the pipe. Too large or small clearance will either reduce the heat transfer of the stove, or interfere with the normal combustion of gases.

• The same can be done in the nth case, if you need a device for quickly heating a small amount of water, for example, for brewing tea in extreme or outdoor conditions. To do this, you can build a small stove from an ordinary metal can. In order to use it to boil water or at least warm up a little, you need only a handful of chips or even dried grass.

The presented photo clearly shows that making such a structure is not difficult at all. It is enough to have at hand two large metal cans, one of which will be used to make two tubes - vertical and horizontal, and the second will serve as an outer casing.

A stand for a container with water can be easily made from the bottom or lid of a can by cutting out the middle from it, then making cuts on the inside of the resulting circle, and bending them down in the form of legs. This stand fits perfectly on the edge of the can. The stand can also be made of steel wire by carefully bending several pieces and fastening them together.

Camping ovens like "Robinson"

Today, various compact rocket-type camping stoves are on sale, having different names, including "Robinson". But, experienced master having looked at the device of such a device, he will immediately understand its design and be able to draw up a drawing, according to which it will be easy to manufacture.

It is clear that the manufacture of such furnaces will be available only to those home craftsmen who have the skills of plumbing and welding and have at their disposal advising equipment and tools.

Every good home owner should be familiar with welding technology!

V Everyday life a private house very often there are situations when it is very difficult to do without welding. It is not enough to have an apparatus - you need to have certain skills. We hope that a special article on our portal devoted to the basics will become a good self-study guide for beginners.

You need to know that all field stoves operating according to the principle described above have general parameters that must be taken into account when drawing up a drawing diagram, otherwise the structure may malfunction. These characteristic features include the following features:

• The vertical pipe must have a height of at least twice the length of the combustion silo.
• The height of the fuel hopper, installed vertically, should be approximately equal to the length of the horizontal connecting section of the furnace and the width of the furnace opening.
• The best location of the combustion section will be to install it at an angle of 45 degrees, since the blowing gap is optimally located in it, and it is also convenient to put fuel in it.
• It is recommended that the cross-section of the inlet of the fuel hopper is approximately equal to that of the vertical pipe.

The first option for a camping stove

Such a model of a camp stove is simple in design and manufacture and is very compact in size. It does not require a lot of materials, and it can be done in just a few hours.

The oven has one important design feature- its lower part, which acts as the bottom of the fuel chamber (grate), is made movable, so it can be pulled out, put on it the required amount and pushed into the combustion bunker. If the chips are long, then the extended grate can be used as a stand for laying them. In addition, the retractable grate makes periodical cleaning of the furnace much easier.

This model will require:

The work is carried out in stages and includes the following operations:

• On blanks from square pipes, markings are made, since one of their edges must be cut off at an angle of 45 degrees. Then cuts are made by the "grinder".
• The next step is to carefully weld the pipes together to form a kind of "boot".
• In the upper part of the vertical pipe, at its corners or in the middle of each side, you need to make cuts 20 mm deep and 3.5 mm wide. A stand for containers will be installed in them.
• Further, the stand itself is made. To do this, one of the 300 mm long strips is cut in half. On the second strip, you need to outline the middle and weld prepared segments to it on both sides to get the shape of a cross.
• The frame of the pull-out device is welded from the two remaining strips and short sections of 140 mm in length. Here it is imperative to make a fitting and take into account that long strips should be welded not to the sides of short strips, but overlap with them.
• Top of the finished frame spot welding a finished grate or steel rods cut along the length of the frame with a distance of 10 mm from each other is grabbed, they will act as a grate.
• Then, on top of the pipe, a stand is installed under the container, and the grate is pushed into the combustion hopper. The finished oven can now be tested.
• If the test activities are successful, then after the metal has cooled down, the furnace can be painted.
• Although this design is not provided for, it is still recommended for the sliding frame to additionally weld the handle, which will help to more comfortably adjust its location.

The second version of the camp stove - "Antoshka"

This oven is a little more difficult to manufacture, as it has more elements. However, the work is still quite doable if everything is prepared for this.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it provides an additional heated plane. For example, a container for cooking food can be installed on a stand located on a vertical pipe, and an additional plane fixed above the combustion hopper can be used to heat water at the same time.

To manufacture this model, you will need the following blanks:

• A vertical pipe is marked, since its lower part must be cut off at an angle of 30 degrees. A cut is made according to the marking.
• Then a pipe intended for a combustion hopper is taken, and a 120 × 100 mm hole is marked and cut out in its rear upper plane. A hole is also cut out from the lower side of the combustion pipe, but already with a size of 150 × 150 mm - to connect this part of the furnace with the blowing chamber.
• The next step is to weld the rear part of the furnace bunker with a prepared plate, and then pieces of metal rods are welded to the outside of the lower hole at a distance of 10 ÷ 12 mm from each other - this will be the furnace grate.
• Next, you need to make a blower chamber. To do this, take a piece of a square pipe with a size of 180 mm, and a cut is marked on it at an angle of 30 degrees so that the size of the blower is 100 × 180 mm. The part must have a bottom and side walls, and with the upper part it will be welded under the grate of the combustion hopper on three sides.
• Now, for comfortable further work, the stove needs to be placed on supports, which are made of metal corners, welded to the back of the combustion and blower chambers.
• The next step is to move on to work on the top of the oven. A vertical furnace tube is welded to the upper opening of the furnace. After that, the fitting of the top panel is made, and the angles of the triangles - the supports - are determined. Their configuration is drawn on paper and then transferred to a sheet of metal and cut out.
• The triangles are mounted on a rib and welded to the vertical pipe and the “roof” of the brew hopper. The triangular elements, together with the top plate, will create a sealed space above the combustion hopper, thanks to which the metal panel will stay hot for a longer time.
• Then, a 300 × 150 × 3 mm plate is tried on and welded to the front upper edge of the furnace hole, the installed triangles-supports and the vertical pipe.
• Having finished with this part of the furnace, it remains only to weld the corners to the upper part of the vertical pipe, which act as a support for the containers. Prepared reinforcing bars 300 mm long must be bent at right angles so that they have the same sides. The corners must be welded to the four sides of the pipe, raising them to the same height, so that their upper edge is located above the plane of the vent of the vertical pipe at a height of about 30 ÷ 50 mm.
• The design can then be tested and then painted with heat-resistant paint.

Robinson oven

The appliance purchased in the store does not have a door that allows you to regulate the intensity of the primary combustion in the firebox, and some home craftsmen repeat the factory Robinson model.

Other craftsmen who make the oven for themselves have tried to improve the design, making it more efficient, so you should pay special attention to such modernization.

Variant copied from the industrial design

If a factory version of the furnace is chosen for self-production, then you can easily understand its elements according to the drawing, especially since very few details are required:

— Metal box furnace hopper made of 3 mm steel sheet. Overall size hopper 150 × 100 × 300 mm. It is assembled from five plates of 2 pcs. 300 × 150 mm; 2 pcs. 100 × 300 mm and 1 pc. 100 × 150 mm.

- Metal plate 150 × 200 × 3 mm to separate the blower duct from the combustion chamber.

- A metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of 600 mm.

- Sections of reinforcement with a diameter of 7 ÷ 8 mm and a length of 120 mm - for the manufacture of a grate.

- Three rings 25 ÷ 30 mm high, cut from a pipe of the same diameter as the vertical riser -100 mm, and one ring with a diameter of 110 mm;

- three nuts d13, which are welded to the bottom of the combustion hopper and are intended for screwing the legs;

- three identical pieces of steel rods with threads cut into them, or ready-made studs (long bolts) with M8 threads.

Here, it should be clarified that the upper stand can have a different configuration, since it does not play a special role precisely in the efficiency of the device. The main thing is that this element does not have a solid upper plane and is not located close to the pipe mouth, otherwise there will be no proper thrust in the furnace, and the fuel will not burn with the required intensity.

To make a stand of exactly this shape, you need three rings, prepared from a pipe, cut in half, and then weld them to a metal rod.

The work on the manufacture of such a furnace model is slightly complicated by the fact that two elements of different shapes are used - a rectangular box and a round pipe. The assembly is performed as follows:

• First you need to prepare a plate that separates the firebox from the blower. To do this, pieces of reinforcement are welded onto the plate, at a distance of about 10 mm from each other - this is how the grate will be obtained.
• Then the finished plate with the grate must be welded to the side and rear walls of the firebox. It is welded, stepping back from the bottom edge 30 ÷ 35 mm. The plate must be installed evenly horizontally.
• Next, the corner joints of the rear and side walls of the chamber are welded.
• The next step is to weld the bottom part to the box, and to it - three nuts for screwing the legs.
• Further, with the help of welding, the "roof" of the combustion chamber is fixed.
• Then, the pipe is marked, since it must be cut at an angle of 30 degrees. After a cut, instead of a circle, an oval is obtained in the section.
• The pipe must be attached with this oval to the middle of the surface of the "roof" of the welded box, at the very bottom of it and circle it with a marker. Along this line, a hole must be cut in the plate, since a vertical pipe must be welded into it. You can also cut this shape using a high-current welding machine, or a metal cutting machine.
• Next, a pipe is welded into the hole. A stand is put on it to install the container. Legs are screwed to the structure, and a test is carried out, and then, if desired, staining.

Improved version of the Robinson oven

This version of the furnace is similar in design to the previous model, but differs in that the master installed a door on the furnace hole. In this case, the door swings up. But, I must say that this way of opening is also not entirely convenient, since with the help of such a valve it is impossible to accurately regulate the draft - in principle, it has only two positions. The best option there will be a flap moving up and down or left - right, which is installed in corners welded to the walls, 10 × 10 or 15 × 15 mm in size.

In addition to this difference from the previous version of the furnace, there are several others:

• For the manufacture of the furnace bunker, steel was used with a thickness of 5 mm.
• A square tube is used for the vertical section.
• As a stand for containers, corners, decorative metal balls are used, as in this case, or you can come up with your own version of this element, which will be the easiest to manufacture.
• The stand for the oven itself is also different from the options presented above. It consists of a steel plate, to which a leg is welded, made from a piece of reinforcement.

To make this model of the furnace, you need to prepare:

- A pipe for the manufacture of a furnace bunker, 400 mm long, with a cross-sectional dimension of 160 × 160 mm.

- Chimney pipe 600 mm long and 120 × 120 mm in size;

- Panel that separates the firebox and the blower gap. It is made of 5 mm steel sheet and 7 ÷ 8 mm metal rod. Its size is 155 × 300 mm.

- Plate with dimensions 180 × 350 mm - for a stand under the oven;

- Metal panel 160 × 100 mm.

The photographs shown show the material that is suitable for, as well as its process of cutting it. The cut off part from the vertical pipe part can be used instead of the leg on the oven support.

• A dividing panel with a grate is fixed inside the firebox.
• Then, the rear wall of the combustion hopper is closed and the vertical pipe is welded on.
• Further, the entire structure must be installed and secured by welding to a metal plate. As a support, a piece of metal rod or a triangular part cut off from the chimney is mounted in front.
• On the upper edge of the vertical pipe in the corners, pieces of corners are spot-welded, which will become a stand for the container. They should have a height of 40 ÷ 50 mm above the pipe.
• Further, a door is installed on the inlet combustion hole (on hinges, as in this case, or in the form of a pull-out panel in a frame made of corners).
• A design test is in progress. After that, the welding seams are cleaned, and the oven is covered with heat-resistant metal paint, which will not only make the device more accurate, but also prevent the appearance and spread of corrosion foci.

For those who have the skills to work with various locksmith's tools and make one of the Robinson-type oven variants it will not be difficult. The whole process of procurement of parts and the assembly itself will not take much time, but the furnace will last a long time and will become an irreplaceable assistant in various situations.

Therefore, if it is not possible to lay down a stationary heating structure in a country house or purchase a ready-made cast-iron or steel stove, then "Robinson" is exactly what you need. Moreover, its manufacture does not require a large amount of materials, and a very small amount of any available natural fuel is consumed to obtain the desired effect.

Video: homemade rocket-type metal furnace

The rocket oven is one of the types cooking ovens working on wood fuel. Stationary models of stoves are also used for heating.

It got its name from the hum that is heard at the beginning of the fire. At correct mode burning it dies down. The shape of the structure also resembles a rocket - vertical cylinder... The oven is also called reactive.

A similar principle was used in Korea and China for heating homes in winter. Travelers in the old days noted that much less firewood was spent than in a traditional Russian village.

Reactive furnaces, product drawings

Rocket stoves are subdivided into portable and stationary... The first devices are smaller and simpler in design. She reminds inverted letter "G"... Fuel is placed in the lower bar. Thanks to the vertical shape of the main body, natural draft occurs.

Photo 1. A drawing and a finished version of a metal rocket furnace with an indication of the dimensions, left and top view.

As the temperature rises, the device works more efficiently. It has enough power to quickly heat water for cooking for several people. To prevent the wood from burning out too quickly, you need to regulate the draft in the stove. To do this, cover or close completely the fuel door.

Portable jet furnaces serially produced... Most popular models "Robinson" and "Ognivo"... Due to the simplicity of the design, you can make them yourself.

Stationary devices are somewhat more complicated. In the hood, the air ducts are made in such a way that the heated air first rises upwards. Transferring heat to the inner walls, it gradually goes down. Then it goes into the chimney located at the bottom.

Photo 2. Drawing of a rocket furnace made of bricks and a metal barrel. Arrows indicate parts of the device.

Such an oven is quite economical to use, since it burns not only firewood, but also pyrolysis gases. The chimney channel of the furnace is sometimes not taken out of the room immediately, but is carried out inside a bed made of brick and / or clay. This bed heats the room up to comfortable temperature... The design itself is made from pipes large diameter, barrels or bricks.

Important! The device needs in preheating before the firebox... First, they light paper, newspaper, or something else that quickly ignites. And only in the warmed-up firebox firewood is stacked.

Long burning brick rocket stove

Since bricks store heat, such devices are well suited for space heating. Taking into account the duration of burning, one fuel tab is enough to maintain a comfortable temperature for 6-8 hours.

Sometimes the stove is made entirely of brick. Only fittings (doors) need steel or cast iron. In other cases, the outer part of the furnace hood is made from a barrel or wide tube.

Attention! Brick oven requires a separate foundation not related to the one being built for the building itself. It is advisable to plan its location before starting construction.

Device from a pipe with a water circuit, diagram

The furnace structure is welded from iron pipes different diameters.

If it is supposed to heat a small room, the stove cover can be made from waste gas bottle.

In a house of a more impressive size, for these purposes, it is suitable iron barrel.

If a water circuit is installed on the chimney of the stove, then you can get a long-burning boiler that will heat the room well.

The water circuit is usually made from gas cylinders.

"Robinson"

This is a simple and reliable camping stove. She is capable of quite quickly (in 10 minutes) boil a liter water. In this case, you do not need to add firewood.

The design was developed in the last century, but due to its advantages it is still used today. "Robinson" is mass-produced, but it is easy to assemble it yourself.

You will also be interested in:

"Flint"

This oven is similar to the previous version. But the combustion chamber in it shorter and more obtuse in relation to the chimney. Such a stove resembles an inverted letter "G" in shape.

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

He has several stages- selection of a suitable design; selection of materials and tools; directly manufacturing.

Project selection

When choosing a suitable project, consider the following factors:

1. The purpose of the oven is whether it only requires cooking or also heating the room.
2. Available materials.
3. Approximate capacity. It depends on it how many servings of food or how much room the device will be enough for.

Materials (edit)

For a brick structure you will need:

• fireclay (refractory) brick;
• refractory mortar for masonry;
• concrete mortar (for the base);
• mineral wool;
• asbestos;
• a whole barrel or an empty gas cylinder for the cap (optional);
• oven doors - combustion chamber and ash pan;
• if the hood is brick - thick stainless steel sheet according to the size of its section.

For finishing the furnace are used:

• refractory paint;
• clay;
• stones;
• etc.

For metal, take:

1. Round metal pipe diameter about 150 mm and length no more than 90 mm(better about 60 mm).
2. Profiled (rectangular) pipe with a cross section 100-120 mm and length about a third round.
3. Instead of a rectangular pipe, you can take a sheet of steel with a thickness 3 mm.
4. 3 nuts.
5. Steel rods, plates or long leg bolts.

Reference. For better traction, take the profiled pipe with the side no more than the diameter of the round.

Instrument preparation

Useful for manufacturing:

• Master OK;
• level;
• welding machine;
• bayonet shovel;
• metal brush;
• level;
• Bulgarian.

Manufacturing, dimensions of devices

There are many variations on this theme. Consider making two fundamentally different types reactive stove. This is a brick stove with a stove bench, which is used indoors, and a camp stove, assembled from metal. Changes are made if necessary, combinations of methods are possible (for example, a heating and cooking device, but made of pipes covered with clay or stones).

How to make a brick stove with a stove bench

First step- foundation device. A rectangular depression is dug under it, which is then filled with concrete.

For strength, it is better to pre-install the reinforcement. The base must be strictly horizontal.

After the concrete solution has hardened brick laying begins... External walls are located around the perimeter concrete site... A combustion chamber is formed. On one side of it there is a combustion chamber with an opening for loading firewood. On the other hand, there are air ducts.

Important! Each row of bricks is also level tested. This is done in both planes - horizontal and vertical.

The combustion chamber also leave a hole for ash cleaning, which is closed by a door. When this camera is ready, a metal barrel is put on it. The gaps are filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

If the barrel is not used, the top is installed cooking stove... An asbestos insulation is placed under it.

The chimney is connected to the air duct and led out into the street.

Then finished the device is decorated. For example, it is coated with clay and covered with paint. Another option is to leave brickwork.

Reactive Hiking Stove

It consists of two compartments connected to each other. To assemble it, first cut the pipes at an angle of 45 °... If instead of the second pipe you took a metal sheet, cut it into the following parts:

• two with sides 300 mm vs 150 mm;
• two - 300 mm vs 100 mm;
• and one 150 and 100 mm.

Photo 3. Ready-made jet stove for hiking. The device is made of metal pipes.

Then weld them together. You will also need one more plate for dividing the fuel compartment, its dimensions 200 mm and 100 mm.

All fragments are welded together according to the diagram. The round pipe is fixed at the bottom of the rectangular and in the middle with respect to the lateral sides.

From rebar scraps are welded grate... It is convenient to make it retractable in order to lay firewood and then push it inside the firebox.

Saw off from the pipe 4 rings. They are attached from the top so that the dishes do not block the draft hole.

Collapsible legs are installed... Nuts are welded from below, into which long bolts are then screwed. There is also another way. The rods or cuttings of the steel sheet are welded to the bottom. It is less convenient to transport, but there is no need for assembly.

When the structure is ready, it needs to be painted... Only refractory paint is used. This will protect against corrosion and also cover the traces of soldering.

Possible difficulties

When laying bricks, it is not easy to accurately calculate the size of the holes for the furnace and ash doors. That's why you can lay out a row with a door without mortar, "Dry", and figure out how best to arrange it. And then lay out the bricks, fastening with mortar.

When making a furnace from pipes, it is difficult to calculate the place of their connection. Therefore, at first, a round fragment is sawed off and attached to a rectangular one in the right place. Around a line is drawn with a marker, along which the cut is made. If the fuel part is assembled from separate plates, it will be more convenient to cut a hole before welding them between themselves.

Useful video

Watch a video that demonstrates the process of kindling a camping rocket furnace, tells about the characteristics of the device.

Pros of using a rocket oven

Reactive furnaces quite economical to use. But for ultra-efficient operation, it is important that the fuel is dry, otherwise secondary combustion of gases will not occur.

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Rocket oven not suitable for installation in a bath. The fact is that for the desired effect, it is required that the walls of the room first heat up. And with the mode created by this furnace, it is the air that heats up.

As a heating device in a house for permanent residence, such a device is not always convenient.

A rocket stove made of bricks of long burning, despite the simplicity of the design, can solve a number of problems for owners of summer cottages and private houses. These include not only the functions of heating and cooking, but also the creation of an original interior and comfort in the room.

Collapse

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, gaseous substances are released, which also decompose and turn into wood gas in the process, which has a high level of heat transfer during combustion.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools down and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In a rocket-type furnace, due to the horizontal channel, the gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool down, but burn out, giving off a large amount of heat.

In models of reactive heating devices of complex design, heated air and gas flows through a series of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under the hob, where it burns completely. For such a rocket, there is no need for additional inflation. The draft in them is created at the expense of the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the ascending flow.

Principle of operation

In this diagram, the principle of operation of a rocket oven with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Long-term rocket furnaces have the following advantages:

• high efficiency - at least 85%;
• a high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
• the absence of soot - the exhaust during fuel combustion does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
• the ability to operate on any type of solid fuel;
• low consumption - fuel consumption of a rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than that of a conventional stove under the same conditions: the combustion time and heating temperature;
• the possibility of arranging a warm bed;
• the duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

Such a stove has many advantages, but there are also bad sides.

The disadvantages include:

• manual way to control the heating device - fuel burns out quickly, and it needs to be reported regularly;
• the high heating temperature of some structural elements threatens to burn the owners in case of accidental contact;
• the heating rate does not allow the use of a rocket furnace for baths;
• the aesthetic component of such a device is not suitable for every interior;
• danger of carbon monoxide penetration into living rooms.

Materials (edit)

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket furnace are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. For the masonry of the main body of the building, a simple red oven brick is usually used. The firebox and the furnace bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If you plan to use high-calorific fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. Masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of construction for a long-burning rocket furnace, you will need to buy furnace accessories:

• blew;
• grate grates;
• furnace doors;
• intermediate cap;
• chimney pipe.

Instruments

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

• trowels for scooping and distributing mortar. It is more convenient to work with a tool with a handle slightly shifted to the side;
• picks or hammer - picks for cutting off individual parts of the brick;
• grinders with a diamond disc for cutting solid blocks into quarters and halves;
• mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
• twisted cord - mooring;
• building level;
• square and tape measure;
• shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for the preparation of mortar, concrete and a metal mesh for sifting the ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before making a rocket furnace, it is necessary to decide on the place of its installation, on the dimensions of the future structure, to develop a scheme. The technology of the masonry itself is quite simple, any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks at a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Seat selection

Before starting construction, first of all, they choose a place. It is recommended to place rocket-type brick ovens closer to the front door. In this case, the ash after cleaning will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the exit point of the pipe there are no rafters located closer than 40 cm to the chimney. And yet, the stove should not adjoin the outer wall of the house so that expensive heat does not go to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

The cement mortar under the influence of high temperatures quickly cracks, therefore, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used for laying brick heating devices.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1: 2 or 1: 3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, filtered, and then sand is added. The resulting solution should be like thick sour cream in consistency. You can check the level of its viscosity in the following way:

• place a wooden stick or trowel handle in the mixture;
• take out the tool and shake well;
• check the thickness of the adhered layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required density can fill in all the irregularities of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Rocket kiln masonry with 20 bricks

Rocket furnace ordering for 20 bricks

An example of a brick rocket stove

Rocket oven masonry with a stove bench

A brick rocket oven, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order presented in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without the use of metal products. Only the doors will be iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

After the completion of the masonry work, the homemade rocket furnace must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the firewood norm is put into the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleaned of damp spots. It may take from three to eight days to dry, depending on the size of the device. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Acceleration of drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished view

It is only necessary to launch a brick rocket furnace with a warm chimney. For a small device, this property is not so important, and a larger stove for a cold pipe only uses firewood in vain.

Therefore, before loading the fuel rate after a long break in operation, the rocket must be heated with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a blower with an open door. When the hum in the stove lowers the tonality or dies down, then you can load all the fuel into the furnace, it should ignite by itself from the already existing fire.

A rocket stove with a stove bench is not a fully self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the firebox with the standard amount of fuel, the blower door is left in the open position. After the stove starts humming strongly, it is covered to a position where the sound made is barely audible.

Only dry wood can be used to warm up the stove, wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to the desired temperature, which can lead to back draft.

Output

A brick reactive stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating device for small buildings, both temporary and permanent residence. This is explained by the simplicity of execution, the cheapness of the material, the duration of the autonomous operation and the high heat transfer of this design.