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Arguments against installing the hood

Familiarization with them makes it difficult to make a final decision, but you should be aware of them. Only complete information makes it possible to make the best choice, taking into account the maximum number of various factors.

The hood can obstruct traction

This warning has the right to exist only in one case - the hood is set very low, the dimensions of the slots around the perimeter are less than the diameter of the chimney pipe. This is very rare, no one deliberately closes the chimney with a cap.

The hood can only obstruct traction if it is set too low.

Condensation may freeze on the hood and partially or completely block the opening

Unfortunately, such cases are not uncommon. It all depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the building is located, the efficiency of the boiler and the physical characteristics of the fuel. If everything is clear with the first factor, then the last two should be discussed in more detail.

Building codes strictly regulate the temperature of the gases leaving the chimney. It should not be less than + 120 ° С, only under such conditions the appearance of condensation is excluded. But modern heating boilers have a very high efficiency, which means that the maximum amount of thermal energy is transferred to the heat exchanger, respectively, the gas outlet temperature is low. None of the boilers can withstand the recommended values, they all heat the interior, not the street.

Condensation in the chimney

Conclusion - there will be condensate not only on the bell, but also on that part of the chimney where the temperature is below the established standards. This should always be taken into account when trying to cover chimneys with additional elements.

How to eliminate condensation in the chimney

The amount of condensate depends on the type and characteristics of the fuel. If the boiler is heated with damp wood, then the condensate will have to be collected daily in ten-liter containers, and if with high-quality natural gas, then it is almost completely absent.

If used in a stove or fireplace solid fuel, it is important that it is dry

Output. The decision to install the hood should be made taking into account the factors described above, they have a decisive influence on the traction performance and can cause extremely dangerous situations.

Caps burn out quickly, they have to be changed often

If the products are made of low-quality and unprotected metal from corrosion, then yes, their service life does not exceed 3-5 years. But today, either galvanized or alloyed thin sheet steel is used for such purposes. The operating time of high-quality stainless steel is practically unlimited.

Stainless steel caps have a long service life

Technology for the manufacture of a Tsagi deflector with a drawing

A drawing of the manufacture of the Tsaga deflector. (Click to enlarge)

First you need to decide on the dimensions of the pipe of the outer and inner girth. Measurements must be accurate.

On the outside diameter, the stove hood is tightly seated on the chimney.

The main parts are made in proportion to the inner diameter:

the inlet pipe is put on the pipe;
the outer cylinder is a diffuser, its size should be about 30% larger than the inner diameter of the pipe;
cover, its size should be about 90% of the pipe diameter.

Please note: although the installation of the deflector or nozzle can be simple, the proportion must be observed, and if it is violated, the expected thrust result will be lost. ... A drawing is made on paper for the shape and dimensions of the cap.

A drawing is made on paper for the shape and dimensions of the cap.
Patterns are applied to a metal surface and cut with metal scissors.
The resulting parts must be bent, according to the design, and connected with rivets.
The finished parts of the deflector are assembled in the workshop, and at a height they are only fixed above the pipeline.

Note: install the chimney correctly at a height of up to 2 meters above the roof level. Remember that work that is carried out at a height requires special care and adherence to safety regulations.

How to make a visor

First of all, you need to find out the external dimensions of the head, where you plan to attach the umbrella, and then sketch by hand a sketch depicting the future structure. To develop it, use simple rules:

the dimensions or diameter of the product must be 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the pipe so that the edges protrude 50 mm from all sides;
slope angle of slopes - from 30 to 45 °;
the minimum height from the chimney cut to the fungus is 100 mm, as shown in the drawing.

In addition to the traditional umbrella, there are other design options - a deflector and a rotating weather vane - "toady". The first allows you to actually increase the thrust due to the wind pressure, which creates a vacuum inside the cylindrical body, where the smoke channel exits. But in calm weather this device not only loses its advantages, but also worsens the thrust force in the pipe, creating increased resistance at the outlet of the combustion products.

Deflector operation diagram

For reference. The same effect is created by rotary spherical nozzles, an example of which is shown in the picture.

Nice nozzle, but not very effective

The semi-cylindrical weather vane, assembled from several segments and rotating on a special bearing, was named "sneak" due to its ability to turn with the wind. If not high price and the doubtful reliability of the bearing, it would become an ideal cap for any round chimney, since it successfully protects the mouth from blowing out and precipitation.

Various materials are used for the manufacture of chimney hoods - sheet steel with zinc and polymer coating, stainless steel and even copper. To make a cap on a pipe with your own hands, we recommend the first 2 options - galvanized or painted metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm.

Making a simple round umbrella

To do this work, you will need ordinary tools - metal scissors, a drill, a hammer, and a riveting device. Having determined the required dimensions of the fungus, proceed in this order:

Screw 2 self-tapping screws into a wooden strip at a distance equal to the radius of the product plus 15 mm. Get an impromptu compass, with which you mark the center of the circle on the metal and draw its outline.
Cut the piece with scissors, and then draw a sector with an arc length of about 120 mm (the figure resembles the first piece of a round cake).
Cut this wedge, then forcefully align the outer edges of the circle and fix them in a vise.
Drill 3 holes along the resulting seam and connect the ends of the part with rivets or M4 screws with nuts. The top of the weather vane is ready.

Draw a circle (left) and join the edges of the fungus (right)

The legs for the fungus and the clamp around the pipe are made of steel strips made by bending a thin sheet 2-3 times. These parts are also attached to the umbrella with rivets, which is clearly demonstrated by the master in the video:

Gable vane

For the manufacture of this type of caps, it is advisable to use a listogib machine or contact the appropriate workshop for this service. In extreme cases, you will have to bend the elements manually along the line, gently tapping the metal with a rubber hammer on a wooden block.

As in the previous version, the first step is to remove the outer dimensions of the brick chimney, and then calculate and sketch the pattern, as shown in the drawing. Here are the formulas for determining the length of the sides of the elements, depending on the original dimensions of the pipe and the height of the weather vane.

Advice. The lower part, encircling the mouth of the smoke channel, is better made in the form of a Z-shaped profile with angles of 90 °, which will subsequently "sit" on top of the head. Then these profiles are connected to a one-piece frame with rivets.

Assembly of the frame and installation of racks in the corners

The process of assembling the cap with your own hands is quite simple - you need to cut the metal according to the drawing, bend along the dashed lines and connect the parts with rivets. It is proposed to take ready-made corners made of painted metal with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm as rigid racks. How the gable vane and the visor in the form of a cover with a pipe passage are assembled is clearly shown in the video:

Do I need a cap on a chimney pipe

It seems obvious to many that a cap on a pipe is necessary.

The main task of the device is not limited only to protecting the chimney from precipitation, dust and debris. Functions of the pipe umbrella include:

protection against so-called overturning thrust - blowing smoke back into the chimney in case of strong wind;
protection against the penetration of birds and small animals into the chimney;
extending the service life of a brick or steel pipe;
chimney decoration.

The main role of the hood is obvious - it protects the chimney from the penetration of atmospheric moisture into the heating system, which is extremely undesirable and negatively affects the operation of boiler equipment.

But there are also counterarguments against installing the hood:

the design can interfere with the removal of smoke and combustion products from the chimney, being an obstacle to the air flow;
the cap can reduce the draft in the pipe;
due to the presence of water vapor in the exhaust gases in winter, ice forms on the visor, and the combustion products do not come out, but return back through the pipe in a concentrated state, poisoning the air in the room.

The cap on the chimney pipe will not interfere, provided that it is correctly selected and installed taking into account the requirements of SNiP and safety precautions.

Although some modern types of chimneys provide for special devices for removing moisture and condensate, installing a weather vane on the pipe will protect the chimney from clogging and birds entering the pipe hole.

Important! A metal hood is not an eternal design. With constant exposure to high temperatures and acidic components in the combustion products, thin sheet steel quickly degrades

Depending on the device, the pipe nozzle has to be changed every few years.

Deflector characteristics

Purpose

An umbrella is installed on the chimney in order to increase traction by deflecting air flows. Deflectors of the correct design prevent atmospheric phenomena from entering the chimney - snow, slanting rain (see).

Also, the chimney visor prevents debris and birds from getting inside. For this, a mesh is installed, which at the same time allows the smoke to be released freely outside.

Main functions

Thus, the chimney visor performs the following functions:

increased traction;
increase in the efficiency of the chimney pipe (up to 20%);
protection from snow, rain, debris;
an obstacle to the destruction of the brickwork of the chimney.

Important! The hood will provide good traction to the chimney only if there is no direct passage in the chimney, but it has several turns. ... Chimney hood design

Chimney hood design

cover or umbrella;
drip or water outlet.

The cover or umbrella is designed to protect against atmospheric agents entering the chimney. A drip or water outlet is designed to drain the flowing down moisture from the top of the pipe, thereby reducing the formation of ice in the winter.

Materials used to make a weather vane

When planning to make a do-it-yourself chimney cap, you should use materials that are heat-resistant and corrosion-resistant. The specified characteristics have such materials as:

galvanized iron;
stainless steel;
copper.

It is important to remember that chimney caps are located in hard-to-reach places. Based on this, it is necessary to choose a hood, which is made of high-quality material, and stands, according to its characteristics, to various atmospheric phenomena. One of the most resistant is the chimney cap made of copper.

How to make a fungus on a pipe with your own hands

Making a chimney cap yourself is not easy. If you do not have much experience in this area, you can first transfer the drawing to a sheet of cardboard, cut it out and think about ways of connecting and fastening. After the picture becomes more or less clear, you can cut out parts of the metal and start assembling

It is very important to measure the chimney accurately and strictly adhere to the measured values during manufacture.

Here is one of the drawings of the chimney in the form of a small pitched roof... The angle is determined by the formula shown on the first sheet.

Chimney cap drawing

The procedure is as follows:

Put the metal blank on the table face up, in the place indicated in the drawing, drill a hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm.
Bend the part along all the dotted lines 90 degrees. For this, it is better to use a listogib. Then the lines will turn out clear, without dents. If there is no such device, you will have to use improvised means: fix a piece of the corner on the workbench with the shelf up. So that you can bend the entire (or almost all) line at once, you can use a bar.
Bend the part along the lines "d". The angle is determined experimentally: a one-piece cap should be obtained. The structure should be flat, without distortions (place it on a table to check). If everything "fits together", mark a point on the lower stiffener with a marker through drilled hole, punch in the future hole, then drill.
Connect the cap and fix with a 3.2mm rivet.
Along lines "a" and "b", bend everything so that you can install the legs.
Along the outer perimeter of the pipe, make the base of the cap from the corners. Place the corners so that one edge rests against the masonry, and the other is on the side. Prepare the “legs” for the hood. All are connected by welding.
The finished base must be cleaned, covered with an anti-corrosion compound, then painted in several layers with paint for outdoor use.
Connect the hood to the base.

If making a square chimney seems difficult to you, this option may be easier. Its implementation will be quite simple if you have a piece of curved sheet metal of the right size. If you have a regular sheet, you can bend it on a special device (usually available from tinsmiths).

Do-it-yourself chimney

The order of work is as follows: prepare the base of the hood from the corner according to the results of measurements of your chimney. Position the corner so that the structure holds well: one edge rests on the edge of the chimney, the other covers it from the outside. Make legs that will support the hood and connect it to the base. Make them strong enough to withstand wind loads and snow mass. Treat all parts with an anti-corrosion compound and paint. Assemble the structure into a single whole. The collection method depends on the material.

Here is an example of how to make a deflector on a metal pipe. The author of this video has it installed on the basement ventilation pipe, although a similar structure can be used on metal pipe from a solid fuel boiler.

In this video, making a regular umbrella for a pipe.

You are always welcome)) And how to fix the cap depends on the pipe material. Judging by the fact that there is only a square or rectangular sweep - you have a brick pipe. If so, you can fix the weather vane on the dowels, and more often. And not into a seam, but only into a brick. If the winds are strong, you can make the lower part, which will be put on the pipe, wide and the fasteners should not be hit in one row, but in a checkerboard pattern: from top to bottom. If you have not guessed right with the material - unsubscribe.

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Making a cap with your own hands

The most common and universal option is a rectangular cap with four slopes. Such a product is easy to purchase, but you can do it yourself with a simpler, but no less effective semicircular version.

The semicircular chimney is simple and easy to use

To do this, you need a sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 1 mm, rivets, metal scissors. The set of devices complements the marker for marking. The dimensions of the structure are pre-determined and a full-size drawing is made on cardboard. You can make a drawing yourself, or you can take a ready-made scheme as a basis and adjust its parameters.

For a semicircular chimney, you can use a pitched structure drawing by changing the shape of the lid

The complex of works for the manufacture of a chimney involves the following stages:

A rectangle is cut out of a sheet of metal, which will become a semicircular roof of the chimney. To do this, a drawing is transferred to the metal and the element is cut out with scissors.
Galvanized steel is easy to process
Strips are cut from the same metal, from which the frame will be assembled for attaching the cap to the pipe. The width of the strips should be about 10 cm, and the length depends on the size of the chimney.
Metal strips or profiles allow you to make a frame for attaching the hood
The structure is assembled according to the drawing, fastening the frame and vertical posts with rivets or welding. Then the rectangular sheet is bent, fixed on both sides to the frame.
The frame can have a stepped shape

Video: making a chimney

It is not difficult to make a cap on a chimney with your own hands, but accurate determination of the parameters of the product is important. Quality materials are also the key to creating a durable structure.

Making and installing a cap with your own hands

When assembling a simple model of a cap at home, you can do without special machines for rolling, it is enough simple tools and accessories.

Required tools and materials

Set necessary tools for the manufacture and installation of a weather vane must, consist of:

metal ruler;
marker;
wedge-shaped mallet;
scissors for metal;
electric drill;
special clip;
listogib;
mandrels;
a small hammer.

Materials required:

a sheet of cardboard;
sheet metal;
metal plate;
screws;
metal primer;
dye.

Drawings and diagrams

A simple cap made of galvanized sheet with a thickness of 0.6 - 0.8 mm for a square or rectangular brick pipe can be easily made by hand. It has a pyramidal lid and is cut using a pattern from a single sheet of metal.

For chimneys and ventilation shafts round section use the TsAGI deflector. So it is called because it is an invention of the Central Aerodynamic Institute. It can be made from a sheet of thin of stainless steel or galvanized.

On chimney circular section, you can also install a Grigorovich deflector.

Calculation of dimensions

The chimney should cover all planes from the end of the pipe, and if the head is included in the structure, then the cap should also cover its horizontal surfaces.

The future product should be quite easy to put on the pipe, so each of its length and width needs to be increased by 4-5 mm.

The wings must be sized to cover the horizontal surfaces of the canopy.

Work progress

The process of assembling and installing the hood consists of the following steps:

Making a pattern from cardboard according to the calculated dimensions.

Transferring its contours to a sheet of metal and cutting out an umbrella blank using metal scissors.
Placing the workpiece on the desktop with the markup upwards, so that it is more convenient to bend first the lines marked in the drawing with a dotted line to a right angle, and then the lines indicated by the letter "d".
Collapsing the cone. The junction must be fastened with rivets.
Making a drip. The contours of the apron parts - the dropper are drawn according to the pattern on a sheet of metal and cut out. The folds along the edges of the elements are made using a bending machine. Rivets are also used to connect parts.

Fastening brackets. They must first be cut from metal plates, and then welded with one end to the apron and umbrella. A metal primer is used to process welding spots.
Cap finish. All surfaces of the chimney are covered with 2 layers of paint, which will protect the metal from corrosion and give the product a more aesthetic appearance.
Installation of the hood on the head of the smoke exhaust pipe. The option for fixing the product is selected depending on the type of pipe. In some cases, screws are used or an additional clamp is installed.

Deflector evolution

Deflectio in Latin means "reflect" in the sense of "reject." Not directed in a certain way, like a reflector, but only to the side. A cap for a chimney pipe made of skins, large shells, etc. were already installed by primitive people to avoid blowing wind into the chimney.

The role of the deflector in creating thrust, its stabilization despite the whims of the weather and the ability of the deflector to increase the efficiency of heat-generating devices was first seriously thought about at TsAGI almost 100 years ago on the instructions of the newly hatched Soviet government. Prior to that, heating engineers tried to improve chimneys for this purpose. Have you seen in old photographs huge, bellied, like an inverted pear, pipes of American steam locomotives or long, thin, with a rosette at the top, English?

At TsAGI, the venerable aircraft designer D.P. Grigorovich took up deflectors in creative collaboration with A.F. Vol'pert, who had perfect mathematical apparatus. The latter is also, and even more, known for his work in the field of radio engineering (Wolpert-Smith diagram, etc.). Together and separately, Grigorovich and Volpert developed several types of deflectors for various purposes, therefore, various deflectors of Grigorovich, Volpert and Volpert-Grigorovich are described in the special literature.

Evolution stages of a smoke deflector from a simple umbrella to a TsAGI deflector

Grigorovich began with the fact that aerodynamically correctly calculated the usual chimney-umbrella, pos. 1 in fig. This has already significantly improved the performance of the device; Grigorovich's cone - remember, it will come in handy. Volpert proposed to equip the deflector-umbrella with an aerodynamic skirt-diffuser (pos. 2), but the deflector remained aerodynamically imperfect, see below. It was supplemented with a streamlined body of revolution instead of a cap and a cylindrical shell body. In the end, after repeated blows in the wind tunnel, the TsAGI deflector (pos. 3) was presented to the government commission, which fully satisfied the issued TK and blocked it much.

The TsAGI deflector is still the most common in the world due to its technical excellence. There are modifications for different purposes, see below. But other developments of Grigorovich and Volpert were not in vain - on their basis, most models of modern smoke deflectors are being developed. Which of them is more suitable for what, we will talk about this further.

How to make a chimney on a pipe with your own hands

For self-made This protection element is suitable for a chimney design with a gable cover for a square or rectangular chimney. To work, you will need the following materials and tools:

Metal sheet for the roof.
4 pieces of profile 20x20 mm.
Metal corner.
Roulette, vise, puncher and scissors for metal.

At the first stage, the pipe hole is measured and 5 mm is added to the result obtained for a secure fit. Next, you need to weld the base for the visor from the metal corner. At the corners of the structure, 50 cm long profile sections are welded, which will become a support for the roof.

Pattern-pattern for making a chimney for a pipe

At a height of 20 cm, the supports for the visor are welded. The lower part of them should be lowered into the depth of the pipe by about three bricks, which will reliably fix the entire structure.

The roof of the chimney will be fixed on the top of the props, for which the steel sheet is bent in a vice at an angle of 900. This visor is fixed to the uprights with plates and rivets.

Making a chimney on a pipe with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to fix it securely so that the umbrella is not blown off by the wind.

How to make a chimney on a pipe with your own hands?

Design

A chimney cap is a device that looks like an umbrella or a visor, installed on the head of the pipe in order to protect it from moisture. There are many variations in the appearance of the weather vane, depending on the shape and size of the smoke exhaust duct. The construction of all types of hoods consists of the following elements:

Chimney hood design

Protective umbrella. The top of the cap is in the form of a cone, pyramid, semicircle, or other more complex shapes. The umbrella protects the pipe from atmospheric precipitation, debris, and birds entering the chimney.
Dropper apron. This cap element protects the pipe head from droplets bouncing off the umbrella. It helps to increase the service life of the chimney, prevents the appearance of corrosion, fungus. The apron is used when the cap is installed on a rectangular or square pipe.

Brackets. Sheet metal plates used to connect the visor to the apron. The number of brackets depends on the chimney size and the weight of the umbrella. Fasteners are made by welding.

Important! For a chimney, you can make a cap with your own hands from sheet metal, however, more complex models are easier to buy or order. The most convenient type of service and operation is a protective umbrella with an opening lid

Due to the mobility of this element, the protective visor is not removed during cleaning or inspection of the chimney.

To make a durable chimney cap, sheet metal is used that does not corrode. Do-it-yourself manufacturing from galvanized steel, copper or aluminum is common. The umbrella on the head made of copper has a noble shade, it looks respectable, but it often becomes a "victim" of non-ferrous metal collectors.

How to close the chimney of a complex device from above

The simplest and most technologically correct solution- install a wide metal cap on such a chimney:

One more a good option protecting such a chimney from moisture and snow between the contours - creating a concrete cap:

Note that for many, this option for completing a chimney seems surprising: why, when making a hood for a chimney, do they also make a screed when they exit? In fact, such a screed does not allow sparks to enter the mine, and rainwater flows exclusively into the street.

Also suitable option- making such a cap wide enough to completely cover the entrance to the pipe:

Study our master classes, choose a suitable design and make a blank for the future object of your own pride!

Making a cap with your own hands

You can make a visor for a chimney with your own hands if you follow certain instructions. But it is worth remembering that in the absence of experience, it is better to assemble a simple but effective design. For the manufacture of the described structure, it is necessary to purchase galvanized sheet steel. To work, you will need tools such as metal scissors, a welding machine, a marker and bends.

It is quite simple to make a cap on a chimney pipe with your own hands:

At the first stage, measurements are taken from the chimney.
Then the pattern of the future cardboard product is created. During operation, it must be borne in mind that the umbrella should be easily put on the chimney, therefore, a gap of about 4 mm is added to the dimensions of the pipe.
After that, the drawing is transferred from cardboard to metal using a marker. With the help of metal scissors, the umbrella blank is cut out.
At the next stage, the necessary elements are cut out of the metal plate, as well as the material is folded. In places where the edges will join, it is necessary to make holes, the distance between which should be about 15 cm. After that, the visor is fixed with rivets.
Then the pattern of the apron-dropper is transferred to the metal and cut out. During work, it is important to correctly cut the material to size so that the product effectively performs its functions.
Further, brackets are created from metal plates, which are then welded to the apron and umbrella. After completing such work, it is necessary to treat the welding places with a metal primer.
At the final stage, an anti-corrosion coating and paint are applied. After that, you need to wait about 2 days for the coating to dry completely. This completes the creation of a chimney cap with your own hands.

When creating the brackets, it is important to take into account that a large amount of snow falls on the cap in winter, so the plates must be strong enough. ...

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Oddly enough, first of all, the choice of the hood depends on the type of boiler plant and the type of fuel burned. For example, nozzles for chimneys serving gas boilers can be installed in only one design - in the form of a nozzle, with an open top.

Important! Regulations Russian Federation and Ukraine strictly prohibit the installation of all kinds of umbrellas on the chimneys of all gas-using installations

Perhaps there are similar restrictions in the regulatory frameworks of other countries, so before buying a nozzle, you should pay attention to this in order to avoid trouble.

Open top nozzle

The explanation of such prohibitions is very simple. At negative temperatures, the chimney cap will begin to freeze and become covered with a layer of ice. The latter will gradually block most of the working opening, the smoke will have nowhere to go, and the thrust will drop sharply. The result is that the waste goes inside the house, and people's lives are in serious danger. Below is a photo where the icy umbrella is clearly visible:

Icy chimney umbrella

The reason is the condensation that precipitates on the cold metal upon contact with the products of combustion at a low temperature. Smoke from high-efficiency boilers, that is, gas-fired, has such a temperature. Because of this, the hood should not be placed on a brick chimney pipe. Another thing is when the boiler is solid fuel, its efficiency varies within 70-80%, and the temperature of the gases at the outlet is from 150 to 250 ºС. Here you can safely pick up a nozzle, especially on a brick channel, destroyed by precipitation. Just remember that it will quickly become covered with black soot.

Note. Pellet boilers operating on high-quality fuel can also develop an efficiency of about 90%, so it is better not to take risks and use an open nozzle as a canopy on the pipe.

When the issue of boiler installations is clarified, let's move on to the gas exhaust pipe itself. The easiest way is, if it is assembled from a three-layer modular sandwich, then protection of the chimney from rain is not required at all. The ingress of precipitation into the canal even benefits him, the pipe is washed from the inside, and then the water is discharged into the condensate collector. For gas boiler choose a nozzle, for solid fuel - any other nozzle, most preferable from a technical point of view - a deflector-vane.

But what about the brick chimney? No problem, when she serves a solid fuel boiler, you can choose a hood from any material and any shape, according to your means. If the combustion products from the gas boiler are discharged through the channel, then the umbrella cannot be placed on the chimney pipe at all, and the constant ingress of moisture into the channel destroys the material. Nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, to be sure of this, just look at the photo:

Chimney protective box

It is clearly seen here that the hood is made as a protective box that completely covers the brick base. Since the photo shows a pipe with several channels, some of which are ventilation, the pipes and umbrellas are different. But nozzles are installed on the chimney ducts in accordance with the norms.

When choosing the design of the hood, one should take into account what material the chimney is made of and the type of fuel used to operate the heater.

This is due to the different temperatures of the flue gases and the efficiency of the heater:

for a brick oven with a square or rectangular chimney, also made of bricks, a special hood is suitable - a deflector. A special feature of chimneys of this shape is the risk of turbulence, which impairs draft. In addition, more soot, soot and dust are deposited on rough brickwork surfaces, narrowing the pipe lumen, which can greatly impair traction, up to a complete stop. The deflector will protect the chimney walls from excessive moisture, which will reduce the adhesion of combustion products and act as a draft amplifier. It will create a vacuum in the upper part of the channel and facilitate the outflow of air from the furnace;
Solid fuel boilers are usually equipped with ceramic tubes or double-walled sandwich chimneys. They have a smoother surface than brick structures, are equipped with a condensate trap, where condensate and precipitation flow down, so they have much less soot deposits on the inner walls. The draft stability of such boilers depends on the height of the chimney. If you do not organize forced draft, then you need to install a very high pipe (up to 8 m). When installing the deflector, the height of the chimney can be reduced by 15-25%, while the stability and traction force will remain at the same level, and the installation of the reduced pipe structure will be less difficult. In the presence of a boiler, the operation of which is based on the principle of pyrolysis, it is better to install a hood with an open nozzle on the chimney. It will be able to protect the channel from the ingress of debris and precipitation, but will not become an obstacle to the release of low-temperature smoke;
for gas and diesel boilers it is also recommended to use a hood with an open nozzle. In them, traction is carried out forcibly, therefore, there is no need to increase traction with the help of a chimney - a deflector.

Deflector Grigorovich

Another time-tested design is deflector Grigorovich... which the installed on chimneys with a circular cross-section to stabilize the draft... The Grigorovich deflector consists of several parts:

frustoconical deflector;
a cap that protects the pipe from precipitation;
a reverse cone that creates a reduced pressure area under the hood and improves traction.

You can make a Grigorovich deflector from the same materials as the above models, the technology for their manufacture is generally similar. Dimensions are determined based on the diameter of the pipe. It is taken as a basis and, using the coefficients, the remaining dimensions are calculated:

The diameter of the cone-shaped diffuser in the lower part is taken as 2d, in the upper part - 1.5d, the height of the truncated cone - 1.5d.
The cone-shaped umbrella hood and the return hood have a diameter of 2d and a height of 0.25d.
The distance from the top of the return hood to the upper edge of the diffuser is also 0.25d.
The distance from the upper edge of the pipe to the lower edge of the diffuser is 0.15-0.2d.

The last two sizes provide brackets of the desired height, which are made from scrap metal and fastened with rivets, bolts or by welding.

Manufacturing and installation technology:

According to the calculated dimensions, a sketch is made, transferred to sheet metal and the elements are cut with metal scissors.
The cones are bent on a mandrel and fasten the edges with rivets or bending. The umbrella and the reverse cone are connected in the same way.
With the help of brackets, the parts are fastened together, maintaining the calculated distances.
Attach the deflector to the pipe. To facilitate its installation, the deflector can be equipped with a lower cylinder, the diameter of which allows it to be pulled tightly onto the pipe.

Service life of a cap or deflector made of stainless steel - 25 years, of galvanized steel - at least 10 years... To prolong it and give the galvanized an attractive appearance, you can cover it with black heat-resistant paint from a balloon. In this case, soot and soot will not be visible on the cap.

Installing the hood on the chimney is quite simple, and the benefits of it are obvious - you no longer have to spend time cleaning the chimney from leaves, fluff, dust at the beginning of the heating season. Sediments will not get into the pipe, which will allow it to be operated without corrosion and brick destruction. The installation of the deflector, in addition, will make the draft stable even with a low pipe height, regardless of weather conditions.

Roof and roof repair

What materials are used to make caps for their fasteners

The hoods for the chimney are made of materials that are resistant to corrosion, withstand high temperatures and have a long service life. Requirement for temperature regime works only if you close the chimney. For ventilation ducts, a product made of polyester, pural, etc. is quite suitable. In all other cases, use:

Galvanized steel
Stainless steel
Zinc-titanium alloy

Copper flutes (chimneys) serve for a long time, from 50 to 100 years. This is one of the most durable materials, but when installing it, you must use copper hardware. Otherwise, active corrosion processes will begin, which will significantly reduce the life of the device. The installation of a zinc-titanium hood on the chimney provides for the use of only galvanized hardware for the same reasons. Zinc-titanium is a new alloy that was recently used only for the manufacture of roofing materials, but today many companies have begun to produce hoods for the chimney from it. They have a half-century warranty and the price is much less than that of copper ones. You can install caps made of other materials on the pipe with ordinary hardware, although it is better to take those that do not lend themselves to oxidation and destruction: most of the weather vane can serve for decades, and climbing on the roof because it was blown off by the wind due to a collapsed fastening is not the most good time. If we talk about a brick pipe, then you can use either ordinary long nails or threaded ones (but it is almost impossible to dismantle them), you can use dowels. In each case, the fastening system is selected based on the shape and material of the pipe, the available holes for fastening, etc.

Forged chimney caps

The most popular type of this product is a stainless steel chimney with or without polymer coating. The service life in this case is 20 years, but the price is much lower. The option with a polymer coating is especially popular - the color can be matched to the tone of the roof, and if the design is in the style of the roof, this option looks great.

Weather vane

Deflectors for pipes - weather vane is also called weather vane. Sometimes all chimneys in general are called this way, but this is not true, because a weather vane, by definition, is a rotary device.

Deflector on the pipe - the weather vane can be made swiveling, self-orienting and rotating. The latter are also called turbo deflectors, and self-orienting smoke teeth, which is also incorrect. The smoke tooth is part of the chimney of an English fireplace. The weak point of all vane deflectors is the bearing. It is very easy to clog and tighten with soot, and the seals are subject to increased wear. Therefore, you need to inspect the deflector-vane at least once every 2 months. But the deflector-weathervane itself almost never grows overgrown with the main enemy of all fixed deflectors - icicles.

Deflectors for pipes - weather vane

The multi-blade deflector-weather vane (pos. 1 and 2 in the figure) provides a stable draft in the wind up to 9-10 points with low loads on the pipe, so it can be installed on sandwich, ceramic and glass chimneys. A single-blade deflector-weather vane in a strong wind heavily loads the pipe, so it must be strong and the house should be located in a place where the storm wind will not clear up. But the single-blade deflector-weather vane is easy to arrange in the form of a bird (pos. 3 and 4).

Turbo deflector (pos. 5) - remember and do not trust anyone - not smoke! It is ventilation or for gas boilers with electric ignition. The turbine rotates both by the wind and by the air current in the pipe, and a correctly executed turbine, like in some types of wind engines, is self-unrolling: the weakest initial thrust or a light breath of wind is enough for the turbine to spin and pull air, and it will stop only when the thrust and the wind will stop completely. In the ventilation system of a house with turbo deflectors, it is necessary to turn on the fans in the vents, as they say, once a year, not every year. Unfortunately, the turbo deflector is easily tightened by dust and debris from the air, so it must also be checked at least once every 2 months.

The technical properties of the turbo deflector are the same as those of the multi-blade self-orienting, but it loads the pipe even less. It is quite possible to make a turbo deflector with your own hands, see the video below.

Video: do-it-yourself turbo deflector

Manufacturing material

Choosing a chimney for your home, you need to focus on the desired set of functions

It is also worth paying attention to the term and operating conditions.

Copper

Such models are considered the most durable, and their appearance is one of the most beautiful. The installation of copper chimneys must be carried out in accordance with strict rules, otherwise they will not last long. The main problem is that copper can react with other metals, which leads to negative consequences. For example, the destruction of a copper chimney.

According to all of the above, the installation of copper products must be carried out using copper or copper-plated fasteners. Copper has a fairly long service life, from fifty years. Qualitatively performed installation work will only contribute to its increase. Over time, copper products become covered with a patina, which gives them a special look and charm inherent in antiques.

Of steel

In terms of durability, such models are inferior to copper ones by almost five times. Made of galvanized steel, they will last up to thirty years.

Zinc-titanium

This modern material for roofing works is becoming more and more popular. In terms of characteristics, zinc-titanium products are comparable to copper ones, and their durability can exceed fifty years.

Design features

The weather vane can have a round or rectangular shape and consists of several elements: a band that is worn over the chimney, support pillars and a visor or roof. The material of manufacture for chimneys is metal or metal alloys.

For the production of chimney caps, the most common is black steel, which is coated with a layer of zinc or painted with heat-resistant paint for corrosion protection. To increase the service life of the vane on the chimney pipe, they are made of copper or stainless steel, the time of use of which is not limited in time. Over time, such materials of construction will darken, they will not look so elegant, but they will completely fulfill their functions of protection. Such a structure, made by professionals and taking into account the laws of aerodynamics, will not allow the street air flow to blow into the channel and create a counterflow for exhaust gases. The slotted design makes an analogue of the deflector wind-deflector rings, which increase the vacuum when the outside air passes, thereby organizing additional thrust.

The caps of the weather vane on the roof also act as an artistic component of the overall appearance of the house. They are made in the form of various famous structures, contain figurines of popular characters from movies, cartoons, mythical birds, animals, recognizable silhouettes of ships and are an additional decoration for the exterior of the building.

Step-by-step instructions for making the simplest cap

Initial data: stainless steel chimney pipe Ø 120 mm, solid fuel boiler, the hood is made of galvanized steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45 mm painted with polymer paint.

Stainless steel chimney pipe

We will consider the simplest, but very effective version of the cap. It can be made at home without the use of special tools and equipment available from professional tinsmiths.

Step 1. Decide on the diameter of the cap. Practitioners recommend that its edges protrude from the perimeter of the pipe at least 10 cm on each side. With this value, you can find out the diameter of the circle that needs to be cut out of the metal.

A circle is drawn on a sheet of metal

The calculations are done this way.

Add the overhang of the hood on each side to the pipe diameter. In our case, the pipe diameter is 120 mm, to this value we add 200 mm (100 mm + 100 mm), we get 320 mm.
Now this amount needs to be increased by another 50 mm. This increase is required to compensate for the decrease in dimensions for the bend of the cap. The fact is that it will have the shape of a cone, and when bent, the diameter of the flat circle decreases. In our case, to make a cap, a circle with a radius of (320 + 50) should be cut out: 2 = 185 mm.

Of course, these are not real mathematical calculations, they are much more complicated. But for the cap there is no need to accurately calculate all dimensions, tolerances of a few centimeters do not play any role.

Practical advice. You can cut a circle under a cone immediately with the removal of a segment for bending. To do this, draw lines 6 cm long from the radius in both directions, draw lines to the center from the points of intersection with the circle and cut out the resulting segment of the circle.

Metal lacing with bend allowance

If you want to make more simple design cone, then do not cut the segment, but only cut a vertical line to the center of the circle. During bending, excess metal will overlap, in this place it is convenient to drill holes and put rivets.

Step 2. Using manual metal scissors, cut out the workpiece, remove the wedge from the circle.

Cut blank

Step 3. Make special folds on both sides of the workpiece to fix the cone. This should be done when rivets will not be used to secure the cone. Folds need to be done with a hammer.

Bends for fixing the cone are made with a hammer

Height approx. 0.5 cm, twisting in opposite directions. Do not squeeze the hem until the end, this is done at the final stage of making the cone. If it is difficult to work with a mallet, then you can bend the metal with ordinary pliers. The line will not be as straight, but it doesn't matter. The hood is installed very high on the chimney, from the ground such minor problems are completely invisible.

You can bend metal with pliers

Step 4. Bend the cone, inspect the connection. If any parts interfere with fixation, then they should be bent or cut off. The lock must work clearly along the entire length of the cap.

Bent cone

Step 5. Shape the cap. To do this, it must be gradually bent on the so-called straightening. This is a piece of pipe with a diameter of ≈ 50 mm, fixed in a vice. Bend the circle gradually until it takes the shape of a cone. Check the product constantly, do not bend too much.

Cap bending

Step 6. Connect the lock and rivet it. Try to keep the line as straight as possible.

You can rivet the castle with a mallet

This completes the most difficult stage of making the cap, you can start preparing the legs for fixing it. First, the legs themselves are made, for them it is necessary to have three strips of metal about 2 cm wide and up to 15 cm long. To give the legs more rigidity, a fold should be made at the edges.

On the legs, folds are made - fold

Leg making, process

The cap is fixed to the pipe with a clamp. You can buy it ready-made in a specialty store or make it yourself. The second option will take more time, but the construction has a complete design in the same style.

The last step is to mark the places where the legs are fixed to the cap, drill the holes and fix the elements. It is better to use rivets for fastening. The lower end of the legs is attached to the clamp with the same hardware. Now it remains to fix the cap on the chimney pipe.

Attaching the legs

Attaching the ring to the legs

Cap on the pipe

Fixing the cap ring

Should I install

This question is asked by many owners of private buildings. Arguments for and against can be found always and for every subject.

Consider positive sides installation:

reduces the possibility of fire extinction due to blowing it out by the wind;
the pipe is protected from the ingress of debris carried by the wind;
atmospheric precipitation will not be able to penetrate the chimney;

the mesh design reliably excludes the chimney from the places of possible nesting of birds;
the pipe head, protected from atmospheric precipitation, will last longer;
decorative elements will be a great decoration.

Professionals argue that advertisements such as increased traction and efficiency are not reliable.

The disadvantages of installing chimneys are the following:

the hood visor can become an obstacle for combustion products, preventing them from escaping. It follows from this that contrary to advertising, it reduces cravings.
water vapor from boilers with high efficiency has a temperature of up to 120 degrees. In contact with cold metal, it condenses on the chimney, which in the cold season can lead to the formation of icicles. Which, in turn, can lead to disastrous consequences, because ice blocks air circulation.
modern round chimneys are built taking into account the impossibility of building a nest by birds.
A pipe built according to the rules must have a condensate collector.
galvanized chimneys installed above solid fuel heating devices burn out in a period of three to five years. To prevent this from happening, we need more expensive stainless steel analogs.

How is a cap for a chimney pipe

Lid.
Net.
Stack of water or otherwise called drip.
The angle of inclination of the roof should be 45 - 50 degrees, but you can make the angle of inclination more or less, make the height of the cover.
The net will give the opportunity not to settle for birds and make nests. This will solve many problems in the future.
The cover is designed to prevent precipitation from entering the pipe.
A water stack or drip is designed to let the water flow down from the hood.

Principles of operation of the canopy for the chimney

Does not allow water to drain.
Prevents ice from forming, which contributes to the durability of the masonry and the entire structure as a whole.
Air flows hitting the walls and going around from all sides.
Air jet picks up the smoke and lifts it higher.
Because of, that the air moves, it becomes stronger and the thrust becomes greater.
If the chimney is made by professionals, then this will allow you to keep warm in the house when you heat the house without any problems.

What can be on the weather vane

Net.
Skirt.
Spark arrester.

The size of the vane depending on the diameter of the chimney

Pipe height (mm)	Pipe width (mm)	Diameter (mm)
145	245	120
170	285	145
250	430	210
500	840	420
658	1100	520

Classification of visors by shape

In the form of a tent.
Four-slope visor.
Dual slope visor.
In the form of a flat sheet.
In the form of a spire.
Vaulted visor.
In the form of four forceps.
Flat sheet visor made of copper sheet. They do it on houses in the Art Nouveau style.
If the house is built, as in Europe, then a semicircular visor is installed on such a house.
When installing a four-pronged canopy, the chimney will not be filled with snow.

Classification of visors by metal type

The service life of the visor depends on the material

You should pay attention to the material from which it is made. Since the visor is in an inaccessible place, there is no way to constantly monitor it. If the hood does not withstand the weather conditions, the system will not work stably.

The most popular material is considered to be copper alloys and copper itself.... Copper canopies are the most reliable. With the correct installation of the copper visor, the visor will last 70 years.
In second place is galvanized iron steel. The quality of durability is on par with copper and copper alloys.
Steel sheet canopies are in third place.... They are inferior to copper in terms of operating time. They will last about 40 years.
Iron made of stainless steel.
Alloys from titanium and from titanium itself... They have proven themselves well. Durability is guaranteed, soft, durable.

Constructions

Now let's see which one is possible and how to make a chimney deflector ourselves. The easiest way to start is with an imperfect deflector-umbrella; its capabilities are much wider than it might seem, and only a few materials and not very complicated work are required.

What an umbrella is capable of

In the climatic conditions of the Russian Federation, the deflector-umbrella for the chimney is often enough, especially since no waste through its fault was also noted. But - if the chimney umbrella is made correctly. The most common mistake is that the hood is raised too high on the racks. It will not help to return 100% to the original thrust, but the likelihood of blowing into the pipe increases dramatically.

The correct dimensions of the deflector-umbrella for the chimney are given on the left in Fig. For pipes with a clearance of 100-200 mm in diameter, they decrease proportionally, and then the value of H1 increases by 1.3 times for pipes 150-200 mm and 1.6 times for pipes 100-150 mm.

Dimensions of deflectors-umbrellas for chimney and ventilation.

On the right in Fig. the dimensions of a non-inflated deflector-umbrella are given, but in the conditions of the Russian Federation it is better to put it on the ventilation pipe of natural ventilation, because the mesh quickly becomes overgrown with soot or flue gas condensate, and then dust adheres very well to it.

It also does not blow out, retains the original thrust and even slightly increases its two-story deflector-umbrella. The scheme of its action is given in pos. 1 trace. rice.:

Modifications of the deflector-umbrella for the chimney and ventilation stack

For chimneys of low-power household stoves / boilers (up to approx. 40 kW), it can be simplified by making the floors the same, pos. 2. Each floor is a Grigorovich cone cut in half in height (see above); the distance between floors is equal to the height of the floor. The upper floor is gable, i.e. the cut off top of the cone is closed with a blank cover. A 3-storey umbrella for a ventilation pipe (pos. 3) freezes less often and becomes less clogged than an umbrella with a net. For pipes 130-200 mm, the dimensions change proportionally. And, finally, the Kiryushkin deflector (pos. 3; all cones - Grigorovich) is used mainly as an active-passive - a low-power fan of 12 V 100-200 mA is placed under a small cone.

TsAGI

Before taking on the aerodynamically open deflector, let's see how the most perfect TsAGI deflector is modified for a private house. Its original design was designed primarily for industrial facilities and then for apartment buildings.

Drawings of 3 variants of the TsAGI deflector are given in Fig. The dimensions of the original industrial version are shown at the top right. Not completely, because it is designed for a strong pipe and certainly not for a sandwich chimney. For the chimney of a private household, the Khanzhenkov deflector working according to the same scheme (on the left in the figure) is more suitable. It gives less horizontal wind load and can be inserted into a pipe as described below.

TsAGI deflector modifications for chimneys and ventilation pipes

And on the right in Fig. - dimensions of the ventilation deflector of TsAGI. It can be transformed from passive into passive-active by painting the shell with black smith's pat or other paint that well absorbs the thermal radiation of the earth and the objects surrounding the house. The fans in the vents of the house ventilation system must, of course, be left, but they will have to be turned on occasionally. How to make a TsAGI deflector with your own hands, see video

Video: do-it-yourself TsAGI deflector made of metal tiles

Note: a ventilation deflector is not as luxury as it might seem. When the wind blows into the ventilation, the bathroom is cold, and kitchen fumes and toilet smells are carried through the house. Flap valves do not solve the problem - they slammed shut, the bathroom and the kitchen are stuffy.

What comes out of the cones

Of the open-type deflectors, the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector is the most accessible, and, across the entire range of technical indicators, the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector is optimal for private households. Although, only they themselves knew how much of both he actually contained.

Canonical (initial from TsAGI research) proportions of the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector are given in pos. 1 pic .:

The proportions and dimensions of the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector on the chimney

On the left - a modification for an asbestos-cement pipe, which holds longitudinal loads well, but is fragile across. The doubled height of the upper cone forming the body of rotation gives a large lifting force, tending to tear the deflector off the pipe, but a tight clamp will hold it in any wind. For pipes 130-180 mm on the inside, the dimensions change proportionally.

Note: for another version of the self-made Volpert-Grigorovich deflector, see next. video clip:

Video: Volpert Grigorovich deflector to increase the thrust in the furnace

Chimney weather vane

A type of chimney is a weather vane, which is chimney attachment mechanism and main body.

Protects this type of element from rain and snow falling into the chimney, enhances the draft of air masses, protects well roof covering from damage by sparks.

The top of the entire structure of the weather vane is made in the form of an inclined flat element, its area is larger than the section of the chimney itself.

The plate covers the chimney, and the side structural elements form a gap between its bottom edge and the duct.

The weather vane has a rotating body, which is mounted on a rod... The rod is attached to a special sleeve. The sleeve is connected to the base in the form of a cylinder, which in turn is equipped with a flange.

Operating principle

The functioning of the weather vane consists in the rotation of its moving upper part, which rotates along an axial guide along the air flow. Due to the fact that the air flow envelops the very top of the weather vane, it turns.

As a result, there is a rarefaction of the air flow between the outlet of the chimney and the weather vane itself. This increases the air draft from the chimney.

Principle of operation

Weathervane can be presented in various designs: in the form of eagle heads or dragons, stork or falcon. The variety of forms of such elements makes it possible to supplement the architectural ensemble of the building with an appropriate solution for choosing an additional element.

Chimney umbrella pros and cons

The following arguments speak in favor of installing various hoods (weathercocks) on the chimney heads:

the umbrella partially covers the mouth from being blown out by the wind and thus reduces the likelihood of overturning of the draft;
the chimney serves as protection against debris and moisture in the form of precipitation;
if you use a mesh structure, then birds will not be able to nest inside the chimney;
the product extends the service life of the head of a brick pipe, destroyed by wind, rain and snow;
a weather vane with decorative elements complements architectural style building.

Vane option with a bird net

Note

In compiling the list, we did not take into account false advertising information. The statements that various nozzles increase the draft in the gas ducts and increase the efficiency of boilers are pure invention.

Now let's look at the counterarguments. The main negative point is that the visor on the chimney in the form of a fungus stands in the way of combustion products, that is, prevents their free exit, creating a tangible aerodynamic resistance. This means that the chimney umbrella does not increase the draft, but, on the contrary, reduces it.

The second minus from the use of attachments has been repeatedly confirmed by sad statistics. The fact is that one of the products of hydrocarbon combustion is water vapor, which escapes into the atmosphere along with the smoke. In diesel and gas boilers with high efficiency, exhaust gases with a temperature of up to 120 ° C are cooled as they rise through the pipe, and then come into contact with the metal of the bell.

Examples of icing on chimneys equipped with nozzles

Water vapor immediately condenses and freezes at sub-zero temperatures, which is why icicles form on the umbrella, blocking the chimney section, as shown in the photo. As a result, the waste goes into the room and poisons the residents of the house. There are other arguments against mounting fungi:

Birds have nowhere to settle in modern round chimneys, so there is no need to cover them with a net.
A properly constructed gas duct has a condensate collector with a drain at the bottom, where water that has entered the pipe in the form of precipitation will safely drain.
Caps made of thin galvanized steel, installed on the chimneys of solid fuel boilers and stoves, burn out in 3-5 years due to constant contact with high temperature gases (150-200 ° C). It is necessary to install a stainless steel reflector, which increases the price of the product.

Ebb, and caps.

The latter are mounted on chimneys and, like everyone else, perform protective and decorative functions.

The hood is a protective element made of metal that is installed in the upper part of the chimney.

It performs several functions at once:

protects a brick pipe from destruction by precipitation;
prevents precipitation and debris from entering the pipe;
protects the chimney from birds;
increases cravings;
gives the roof a more attractive look.

If there is no cap on the brick pipe, then it will quickly collapse in the upper part under the influence of precipitation. Brick fence posts are protected in the same way. Caps with a mesh provide maximum protection against falling leaves and other debris into the pipe, and they also reliably protect the pipe from birds.

The cap fixed on the chimney pipe changes the movement of air flows in it, it is thanks to this that the draft increases. As a result, the fuel in the stove or fireplace burns better and the house heats up faster. The increase in thrust is more noticeable if the pipe channel is tortuous rather than straight.

Chimney cap

Despite the fact that chimney caps were created for purely practical purposes, they also fulfill an aesthetic function. This element of the exterior complements well the appearance of the roof and the house in general, giving the building a complete and complete look.

In addition to standard standard designs, there are many original models caps, each of which can be called a work of art - manufacturers develop unusual attractive designs, decorate their products with openwork forging, complement with weather vane and so on.

Other names for the chimney hood are,. In addition, the umbrella is called the upper part of this additional roof element, which directly serves to protect the pipe from precipitation, it is also called a cover. A dropper is located in the lower part, which serves to drain water flowing from the pipe.

Types of chimney caps

In shape, the chimney should correspond to the section of the pipe.

Thus, chimney hoods can be:

round;
square;
rectangular.

The main options for chimney designs:

cap-house with hipped roof;
a house with a gable roof;
chimney with a semicircular roof;
cap with a cone-shaped umbrella;
with a flat umbrella.

Chimneys can be equipped with additional elements:

spark arrester;
forged ornament;
weather vane and so on.

If a spark arrester is a purely functional element, then openwork forging is necessary to give the cap an original and attractive look. It also serves as protection from debris and birds, but a regular grill can also cope with these tasks. The weather vane not only shows the direction of the wind and acts as a decoration - thanks to its presence, the draft in the pipe increases.

Manufacturing materials

For the manufacture of chimney heads are used:

sheet galvanized steel;
stainless steel;
copper.

Galvanized steel pipe heads withstand aggressive environmental influences well, they are practical and do not lose their color for a long time under sunbeams... They can be additionally coated with colored polymer material(polyester).

On sale you can find such caps of any color, this allows you to choose a shade that will harmoniously combine with the color of the pipe and roof. Stainless steel is a higher class material, products made from it will be more durable.

Copper is the most durable material for a chimney hood. When correct installation such a chimney will last more than a hundred years. Copper caps go well with gutters and other elements made of this metal, as well as with natural tile roofs.

Over time, the head made of this metal will not only not lose its appearance - on the contrary, it will be covered with a noble patina.

How to choose a cap

Most often, for brick pipes, heads with a hipped roof are used, and for pipes of circular cross-section - chimneys with cone-shaped umbrellas. However, there are other options worth paying attention to. For example, a gabled top provides better protection from snow.

The shape of the chimney cap is not that important... In order for it to fully fulfill its functions, the main thing is to choose the right size for it. The overhangs of the umbrella should protrude several centimeters from all sides beyond the outer perimeter of the pipe.

If you want to be guaranteed to avoid leaves and other debris, as well as birds, from entering the pipe, it is necessary to opt for a cap with a mesh located under the umbrella. The role of the mesh can be performed by artistic openwork forging; such heads not only cope with the tasks assigned to them, but also have an excellent appearance.

Painted chimneys are not suitable for wood-burning stove pipes, as the paint from them quickly fade.
Caps with a sealed double cover resist hot air better, while double-deck models allow for better airflow.
Deflector hood for maximum traction and thus will increase the heating efficiency.
Fitting a head with a hinged lid to the pipe makes it easy to clean.

When choosing a hood, you need to find a model that not only looks good, but also harmoniously combines with the rest of the roof and the house in general and fits well into the exterior of the building.

Types of different caps

For buildings with a pronounced modern look, headboards with flat roof , and for most of the standard "classic" brick houses the best choice there will be a cap with a four-slope, gabled or semicircular pommel.

To choose the right size of the hood umbrella for a brick pipe, you need to measure its length and width.... If there is an expansion in the upper part of the chimney, the umbrella must cover it too, which means that it is necessary to focus precisely on the dimensions of the outer perimeter of such an expansion. The base of the hood should be easily put on the chimney, but at the same time it should sit tightly, in order to find the required dimensions of its long and short sides, add 4-5 mm to the length and width of the chimney.

How to install the hood

To install the hood, you must:

to knock brickwork in the upper part of the chimney, to check its reliability, if necessary, replace the bricks, fill the empty joints with mortar;
put the base of the cap on the pipe;
fix the structure to the chimney with dowel-nails or other fasteners.

Installing the hood

There must be at least two fasteners on each side of the pipe. The optimal pitch for the long sides of the pipe is 25-30 cm... For the installation of copper heads, it is better to use fasteners made of the same material; for the rest of the caps, stainless steel fasteners are suitable.

Making a cap for a chimney with your own hands

With your own hands, you can easily make a head with a flat or semicircular roof, for this you only need basic locksmith skills.

Consider the second option, see the photos of the drawings below.

As a material for the manufacture of the umbrella itself, you can use galvanized sheet steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, and a sheet of metal coated with powder paint is also suitable.

The base, with the help of which the hood will be mounted in the upper part of the chimney, and the posts connecting the base with the umbrella, can be made of the same sheet steel.

Another option is to use a metal base strip and corner brackets.... It is better if the whole structure is made of one material.

To make a cap, you must:

markup by applying the desired pommel shape to the metal sheet, and cut it out (in most cases, a rectangular blank is needed);
to give the resulting rectangle of sheet metal a semicircular shape, the easiest way is to use a pipe of a suitable diameter for this;
to make racks from a metal profile, in the upper and lower parts, it is necessary to make holes, they also need to be bent;
connect the semicircular umbrella and the racks with rivets;
fasten the racks and the base in the same way... More details in the video below.

The head can then be installed on the pipe.

Four-slope hood

It is more difficult to make a hat with a hipped roof. First you need to prepare a sketch on paper, and then make a drawing-flat pattern, you can also use ready-made sketches and drawings. In this case, it is important to carefully calculate all sizes.

NOTE!

Before cutting out the roof of the chimney according to the finished drawing, you need to make a life-size pattern from cardboard, thick paper or other suitable material to make sure that all calculations are correct and the finished hood will fit the pipe perfectly.

Having cut out the blank of the roof from a sheet of metal, it must be bent in such a way that a voluminous umbrella is obtained, and connected with rivets.

Making a simple chimney cap with your own hands is pretty easy. However, making the most complex and most functional structures can be time-consuming.

At the same time, you can always find pipe heads on sale, and they are also made to order according to individual projects.

A well-made, correctly selected and correctly installed chimney cap will simultaneously perform protective and decorative functions, thanks to it, the entire building will acquire a complete look, and the pipe will last much longer.

Useful video

DIY master class on making a chimney:

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Self-creation of the deflector

The cost of this device starts from 1000 rubles, the upper mark is much higher. The expediency of self-production and installation is not worth explaining.

The chimney convector is a good alternative to radiator heating devices. It has many advantages and a simple design. It is not difficult to do it yourself.

Do-it-yourself chimney deflector is preferably assembled from galvanized steel. But, recently, they have found a replacement for it in the form of a metal, which is covered with a protective polymer layer or simple enamel. In cases where the chimney is not in contact with hot streams of combustion products, it can be made of plastic ( Read the article about in addition to this material
).

Video: instructions for creating a chimney deflector with your own hands

Before proceeding with the creation of a deflector, it is necessary to make a drawing on which all the dimensions of the future product will be applied. When choosing a size, you should start from the diameter of the chimney. This value will determine the height of the chimney itself and the width of the diffuser. There is a table with standard ratios of the dimensions of the chimney and deflector:

To make a deflector for a chimney with your own hands, it is better to make drawings in full size. Confusion over scale can significantly delay the manufacturing process.

Necessary tools that will be required for work:

Drawing set. Measuring tape, marker, ruler.
Metal scissors, wooden hammer, rivet device.
Drills and drills of various diameters.

Stages of work

First you need to choose the type of metal for the manufacture of the deflector. After that, after completing the calculations and making sure they are correct, you can begin to cut out the details of the chimney from the metal. The reamer of the diffuser body must be rolled up in the shape of a plate, then, through the drilled holes, fasten the ends with rivets.

The upper and lower cones are riveted, after which fasteners are installed on the lower cone to connect the device to the chimney pipe. We advise you to study in more detail on our website.

To install the chimney on the flue duct, it is better to remove its upper module. With the help of a workbench, the structure is assembled, then installed in place.

Material for making a mushroom for a ventilation pipe

To make the fixture more attractive, it can be painted to match the color of the roof covering. Since black steel products look unattractive, it is customary to decorate them with forged elements. Unfortunately, steel models have a significant drawback - they are heavy, so this option is not suitable for all roofs.

On sale you can find fungi made of copper and alloy steel, which are durable, but at the same time have a high cost. Therefore, the choice of the material from which this product is made largely depends on the financial capabilities of the owner of the house. You can buy a ready-made device for a pipe on the market or do it yourself, which is quite within the power of home craftsmen.

How to make a fungus on a pipe with your own hands

It is very important to measure the chimney accurately and strictly adhere to the measured values during manufacture

Here is one of the drawings of a chimney in the form of a small pitched roof. The angle is determined by the formula shown on the first sheet.

Chimney cap drawing

The procedure is as follows:

Put the metal blank on the table face up, in the place indicated in the drawing, drill a hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm.
Bend the part along all the dotted lines 90 degrees. For this, it is better to use a listogib. Then the lines will turn out clear, without dents. If there is no such device, you will have to use improvised means: fix a piece of the corner on the workbench with the shelf up. So that you can bend the entire (or almost all) line at once, you can use a bar.
Bend the part along the lines "d". The angle is determined experimentally: a one-piece cap should be obtained. The structure should be flat, without distortions (place it on a table to check). If everything has come together, mark a point on the lower stiffener with a marker through the drilled hole, tuck in the future hole, then drill.
Connect the cap and fix with a 3.2mm rivet.
Along lines "a" and "b", bend everything so that you can install the legs.
Along the outer perimeter of the pipe, make the base of the cap from the corners. Place the corners so that one edge rests against the masonry, and the other is on the side. Prepare the “legs” for the hood. All are connected by welding.
The finished base must be cleaned, covered with an anti-corrosion compound, then painted in several layers with paint for outdoor use.
Connect the hood to the base.

Do-it-yourself chimney

Here is an example of how to make a deflector on a metal pipe. The author of this video has it installed on the basement ventilation pipe, although a similar design can be used on a metal pipe from a solid fuel boiler.

In this video, making a regular umbrella for a pipe.

Types of chimney caps

In shape, the chimney should correspond to the section of the pipe.

Thus, chimney hoods can be:

round;
square;
rectangular.

The main options for chimney designs:

a hat-house with a hipped roof;
a house with a gable roof;
chimney with a semicircular roof;
cap with a cone-shaped umbrella;
with a flat umbrella.

Chimneys can be equipped with additional elements:

spark arrester;
forged ornament;
weather vane and so on.

Manufacturing materials

For the manufacture of chimney heads are used:

sheet galvanized steel;
stainless steel;
copper.

Galvanized steel pipe heads tolerate aggressive environmental influences, they are practical and do not lose their color for a long time under the sun's rays. They can be additionally coated with colored polymer material (polyester).

On sale you can find such caps of any color, this allows you to choose a shade that will harmoniously combine with the color of the pipe and roof. Stainless steel is a higher class material, products made from it will be more durable.

Copper is the most durable material for a chimney hood. If installed correctly, such a chimney will last more than a hundred years. Copper caps go well with gutters and other elements made of this metal, as well as with natural tile roofs.

Over time, the head made of this metal will not only not lose its appearance - on the contrary, it will be covered with a noble patina.

Self-production of a fungus for a pipe

First of all, you should prepare consumables and tools, including:

wooden or rubber mallet;
a metal sheet 10 millimeters thick;
marker;
scissors for metal work;
ruler;
metal corner 50 millimeters wide and 1 meter long;
a pair of gloves.

Before starting work, you need to make a drawing on a sheet of cardboard and try on the blank.

The sequence of actions in the manufacture of a fungus on a ventilation pipe will be as follows:

A rectangle of a certain size is measured on a metal sheet and cut off.
To make a blank for a round-shaped lid with a cut edge, you need to cut a circle out of a rectangle and cut a 45-degree corner to the center.
The edges of the plate are bent with a mallet.
The workpiece is given a sloping bend. To do this, you can use the corner of the desktop or the surface of the iron corner.
The workpiece is connected along the fold lines and processed with a mallet.
To eliminate errors in shape, it is necessary to walk the workpiece on a flat surface. The hat is now ready.
For the base, you also need to cut out a rectangle. To know its length, measurements are taken from the pipe and a spare few centimeters are added. The ends of the workpiece are processed with a mallet. Give the plate a cylindrical shape and connect the ends.
3 - 4 legs are made from the remnants of a metal sheet, folding the segments in half. Holes are drilled at their ends, then the legs are bent from below.
Holes are drilled in the hat at regular intervals and the legs are attached with rivets.
Try on the hat to the base and use a marker to mark the places for the rivets. Having drilled holes, they fasten the structure of the fungus with rivets.

Before proceeding with the final assembly, you need to make sure that the cap is even by placing the cone on the most even surface. Before painting the product, before connecting the elements, the workpiece is cleaned, primed, covered with an anti-corrosion agent. The coloring composition for outdoor use is applied in 2 - 3 layers.

DIY making

Before making a fungus on a pipe with your own hands, you need to choose a model. For beginners, standard caps are recommended.

The work will require:

steel sheets;
scissors for working with metal raw materials;
ruler or measuring tape;
sheet bending machines;
markers;
sheets of cardboard;
welding device, etc.

The protective fungus is mounted in several stages:

measurements;
drawing up a product drawing;
transferring data to a metal sheet;
creation of blanks;
assembly.

Work begins with measuring the dimensions of the chimney and developing drawings of structural elements on a sheet of cardboard or thick paper. TO standard sizes it is necessary to add up to 5 mm for comfortable placement of the product on the pipe.

After checking the accuracy of the measurements, the data is transferred to the material, the lines are marked with a marker. Metal scissors cut blanks for the product.

The elements are placed on a flat surface. The bending machine sequentially forms the lines marked on the canvas, up to the angle required by the design (average 90 °). In places for connection, 3 openings are made at a distance of about 15 cm. The elements are fixed with rivets.

Brackets are made from metal sheets. The elements are welded to the umbrella and apron. The joints are treated with a metal primer.

Finally, the cap is covered with an anti-corrosion compound and paint in 1-2 layers. The structure is dried for 1.5-2 hours and fixed to the base of the pipe.

Master class from the Dacha master how to make a cap for a chimney

Watch this video on YouTube

The principle of the hood on the chimney

The air flow, striking the walls of the upper cylinder, bends around it from all sides.
The air jet, sliding along the surface of the cylinder, turns upwards, thereby sucking in the smoke coming out of the pipe.
The movement of air inside the pipe becomes more intense, therefore, the draft increases.
When the wind flows do not go horizontally, but vertically or at an angle, the wind vane also helps to increase traction. Wind flows enter the upper cylinder through the gap and suck smoke into the pipe.
In the case of a downwind, vortices are formed under the hood of the weather vane, which slow down the release of smoke.

High-quality and competent organization of traction in the chimney system is, first of all, not only the safety of people living in the house, but also required condition correct work heating system... Therefore, it is worth taking the time to make and install a chimney umbrella with your own hands. This simple device will help not only to organize the correct operation of the heating system, but also to eliminate weak draft in the pipe.

How to choose

When choosing an exhaust hood, you need to take into account the functions for which it will be intended.

When choosing a ventilation umbrella, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

Dimensions. To select a size, proceed from the fact that the width is 10 centimeters larger than the surface for which it will be installed.
Indoor temperature. When choosing, it is worth considering the temperature of the vapors and gases entering the chimney. On this point, it is better to use the advice of a specialist.
Air flow. This indicator is calculated from the indicators of the volume of the room, the power and the number of installed plates. Prepare this data before buying and announce it to a specialist.
Air speed and drag. The air exchange of the umbrella should be between 0.8 and 1.5 meters per second. If the speed indicator is lower, it will significantly reduce the quality of work.

When choosing, pay attention first of all to the type of umbrella that you need (see above), and already when buying and manufacturing, proceed from this parameter

Form and function

The main tasks of the chimney cover:

Increased air thrust;
Protection against accidental entry of birds into the pipe;
Preservation of the chimney masonry;
Snow and rain protection.

For your information: the use of a hood increases the efficiency of the chimney by almost 20 percent.

Pipes differ in geometry, shapes and sizes. Their varieties are due to the style of the facade of the house and the peculiarities of the weather vagaries of the area.

Umbrella (cover) - protect the pipe from rain and snow. Can be made in the form of a weather vane, flat cover or gable cap.
Dripper - removes moisture from the pipe walls and stops the appearance of ice.

Caps are made of materials that are resistant to the destructive effects of weather conditions. This product is fixed in a very hard-to-reach place, so it is better not to save money and purchase stainless steel or sheet copper.

Some features of the use of caps:

The semicircle baffle is more suitable for European design;
A flat-top umbrella will organically look on a cottage in the Art Nouveau style;
A weather vane with a weather vane installed can be equipped with a damper that will make the pipe work efficiently even in the absence of wind;
A weather vane with a gable top facilitates intensive ventilation;
Hoods with a movable roof make it easy to clean the chimney.

Fitting a protective apron around the pipe

To ensure that the abutment of the roof deck to the chimney system is airtight, an apron is installed on the roof slope. Rather, two are installed: internal and external. The inner one is under the final roof deck, and the outer one is above. A waterproofing flashing is necessary so that melt water does not get into the attic and into the house.

Requires metal sheet products 40-45 cm high. Flexible lead or aluminum tape, which can be easily cut with metal scissors, will do. On the pipe at a height of 20 - 25 cm from the rafters, a line is marked on all four sides, which will be parallel to the rafter floor. A strobe with a depth of 1.5 cm is laid along this line along the entire perimeter. It can be cut with a grinder, then wash the cut or blow off sawdust.

Arrangement of a metal apron begins from the bottom wall of the pipe. Take a piece of sheet 15 cm longer than the width of the pipe wall. To insert it into the groove, bend the sheet along the edge by 1 cm at an angle of 90º to one side and after 20 - 25 cm bend the remaining part at an angle of 90º to the other side, use the remaining 20 cm to overlap under the roof covering. Thus, leakage will be excluded. Treat this way on all four sides. Fill the edges of the finishing elements inserted into the groove with heat-resistant sealant.

After the roof finish has been installed, an external apron can be fitted. It is more needed as an aesthetic element. Therefore, a material is selected for it that will be in harmony with the roof. It is easy to select rolled products with a polymer coating both in color and quality. An apron for a chimney with a circular cross section can be purchased in a store, it can be metal with adjustable sizes and silicone (rubber), which is easily adjustable due to the elasticity of the material. Making a roofing passage by hand is even easier than a chimney cap.

This structure can only be attached to the roof system. since the shrinkage of the house can play a cruel joke and prematurely disable either the pipe or the apron. A clamp with an elastic heat-resistant gasket must be put on the pipe.

Wind vane on the chimney pipe
How and from what to make umbrellas on the chimney pipes Headrest on the chimney Chimney installation on the roof

How to choose a cap

Most often, for brick pipes, heads with a hipped roof are used, and for pipes of circular cross-section - chimneys with cone-shaped umbrellas

However, there are other options worth paying attention to. For example, a gabled top provides better protection from snow.

The shape of the chimney cap is not so important. In order for it to fully fulfill its functions, the main thing is to choose the right size for it. The overhangs of the umbrella should protrude several centimeters from all sides beyond the outer perimeter of the pipe.

If you want to be guaranteed to avoid falling leaves and other debris, as well as birds, into the pipe, you must opt for a cap with a net located under the umbrella. The role of the mesh can be performed by artistic openwork forging; such heads not only cope with the tasks assigned to them, but also have an excellent appearance.

Painted chimneys are not suitable for wood-burning stove pipes, as the paint from them quickly fade.
Caps with a sealed double cover resist hot air better, while double-deck models allow for better airflow.
The hood with a deflector will provide the best possible draft and thus increase the heating efficiency.
Fitting a head with a hinged lid to the pipe makes it easy to clean.

Types of different caps

Heads with a flat roof are suitable for buildings with a pronounced modern look, and for most standard "classic" brick houses, a hat with a four-slope, gable or semicircular top is the best choice.

To choose the right size of the hood umbrella for a brick pipe, you need to measure its length and width. If there is an expansion in the upper part of the chimney, the umbrella must cover it too, which means that it is necessary to focus precisely on the dimensions of the outer perimeter of such an expansion. The base of the hood should be easily put on the chimney, but at the same time it should sit tightly, in order to find the required dimensions of its long and short sides, add 4-5 mm to the length and width of the chimney.

Installing the deflector

Its effectiveness has been proven by many home and cottage owners who have used this model. Despite the fact that the price of such products can go up to $ 140 for standard designs, the demand for them remains constant.

In order not to overpay, you can make the described device yourself. The whole process will take no more than 3 hours. It all depends on the skills of the collector. At the first stage, a drawing is created, after which blanks are made. Next comes the assembly of the device and its installation on the chimney, followed by fixing.

Before drawing drawings, you should calculate the diameter of the outlet pipe and the diameter of the cap

It is also important to measure the height of the deflector itself. In order to avoid mistakes in this moment, special formulas will help:

height = 1.6-1.7 x diameter;
diffuser width = 1.2-1.3 x diameter;
hood width = 1.7-1.9 x diameter.

After drawing the contour of the blanks on the paper, you can proceed to creating blanks from metal. It is better to take stainless or galvanized steel, the thickness of which varies from 0.5 to 1 mm.

After preparing the pattern for metal, you can proceed to the stage of assembling the product. This will require a drill, riveter or welding. If the latter option is preferred, you must be very careful not to burn through the deflector section.

The cap is fixed on the base with legs, which are drawn in the same way on paper and subsequently cut from a sheet of stainless steel. When all these stages are passed, only the most crucial moment remains - installation on the chimney.

Drill holes in the pipe to secure the deflector. Rivets are fixed. After that, you need to check if the installed device has a slope in different directions. Clamp installation is required if the deflector is loose. If the pipe is not made of brick, this option will come in handy. If we are talking about a ceramic pipe, then you have to use special adapters.

European cap

This model is more intended to prevent the formation of condensation and has a rounded appearance. A chimney of this type can be made independently using a steel sheet and hand-made holders.

How to make a European cap:

Take a standard metal sheet and gently bent around the pipe, you can directly along the contour of the chimney.
Spoons are reworked, for which the cap will hold directly to the pipe. It is best to do this with a special machine or ask a familiar welder

Many people like to place a visor at the top of the chimney. This element is also called a weather vane or a cap. It always has an original look and this adds beauty to the chimney. However, an attractive appearance is not the only function of the chimney canopy. This element also protects the inner space of the chimney from precipitation, the ingress of various objects, and does not allow birds to build a nest. In general, it helps to increase the "life" of the chimney. Therefore, everyone should carry out the installation of the visor on the head of the chimney.

Many buy chimney visor... However, there are people who are not satisfied with the answer to the question of how much a weather vane costs, and therefore they do. It is noteworthy that the independent creation of such a visor is very simple.

What a weather vane might look like

You can do any kind of visor with your own hands. In this case, the main difference will be in its cover. She may be:

standard (resemble the roof of a house);
umbrella-shaped or cone-shaped;
semicircular.

There are also visors that have opening cover and in the middle of which there is a hole (nozzle). The latter are installed only in cases where fuel is burned in the furnace with The efficiency is more than 90 percent. This fuel includes gas and pellets.

With this efficiency on the visor with a standard roof will settle a lot of condensation. On frosty days, it will begin to freeze. And over time it will freeze so much that carbon monoxide outlet overlap. The smoke will not be able to come out. As a result, it will begin to move inside the room. In the case of gas, this movement of smoke is deadly. That's why modern standards it is forbidden to put all types of visors that do not have a nozzle on the head of the chimney.

In the case of pellets, it is better to do. It looks like a plate attached to a bearing and changes location depending on the wind. It always protects the chimney from wind and precipitation. Experts advise to carry out the installation of such deflector-weather vane on the head of the pipe, which removes carbon monoxide gases from.

Materials (edit)

The creation of a canopy for a chimney may involve the use of various materials... Anyone who wants to make a wind vane with his own hands can choose between:

galvanized steel;
galvanized metal, on which the manufacturer has applied a polyester powder coating;
stainless steel;
copper;
an alloy of titanium with zinc.

The most readily available material is Cink Steel. It is best to take a sheet up to 0.8 mm thick. Thicker material is suitable, but it will be more difficult to work with. Chimney canopies made of such steel can stand more than two decades. However, after the first months, their shiny appearance will disappear and the surface will become dull.

It is better to use a powder coated material. Its shade will remain unchanged for many years. True, such material costs a little more.

Other materials have better performance properties. Their presentable appearance can please the eye for many decades. When choosing copper, it is worth remembering that the color of the chimney fungus will change. It's connected with metal oxidation. Every year it will become covered with a patina and the reddish tint will turn to green and then to brown.

The choice of any of these materials is up to the owner. But it is better not to save money, since the visor will be placed in hard to reach place and its repair, as well as secondary installation will be accompanied by difficulties. Therefore, it is better to make a cap out of good stuff that will not need care for decades.

Design

Any chimney canopy consists of:

hats;
grounds;
3-4 supports.

The location of the base is chimney head. Its shape can be square or round. It always depends on what the chimney is. The base is slightly larger in size than the chimney. It is often made from one strip of metal.

Read also: Why does the potbelly stove smoke when the door is opened?

If the chimney has many channels and among them there are ventilation, then you can make a complex base. The first part of it will be a structure that will lie on the brick and cover it. Further, on this part, you need to install pipes with a diameter larger than the diameter of the channel. The number of pipes must be equal to the number of channels. On the top of these pipes, you need to install supports and a cap (if smoke should come out) or make a nozzle (if the channel is ventilation).

Supports serve to create a space through which smoke must move. Often a metal mesh is placed around these supports. As a result, nothing can get inside the chimney.

As for the cap, it can have a different shape. Regardless of the form, she prevents precipitation from entering the chimney... The hat always has larger than the pipe head. Therefore, the water that flows from it does not fall on the chimney.

Manufacturing sequence

To make and continue to hold installation of the visor, you need to measure its length or width and length of the chimney head. This is necessary to create the foundation. In addition, you need to choose the most suitable model weather vane and its scheme. It is very difficult to create a cap with your own hands without the latter.

When this is done, you can start making decorative part of the chimney... First, create a hat. To do it the first time, it is worth taking a sheet of paper in addition to metal. Its dimensions must correspond to the numbers in the diagram. From paper cut out the blank to create the lid. If the cap is conical, then this blank should look like a circle, which lacks one sector. Again, the size of the sector must correspond to the figures indicated in the diagram.

Further the edges of the sector are folded. In this case, one of them is bent up, the second down. Then a sheet of paper is bent to form a cone. The curved edges are laid one after the other. The next step is to evaluate the cover made. If it works out, then similar actions must be performed with the metal.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

The chimney is one of the key integral parts. An equally important element is the chimney cap, which performs not only an aesthetic function, but also a protective one. It ensures an unobstructed and stable removal of combustion products.

The cap gives the structure a complete look

First of all, the chimney is installed in order to increase traction by diverging air flows. There are several functions of the device:

Protects the device from water and snow penetration. With heavy downpours, a huge amount of precipitation can accumulate in the structure, which, in contact with flue gases, form acidic compounds. The cap on the chimney, in turn, protects the mouth of the chimney from the ingress of unwanted moisture;
Prevents unwanted objects from entering the structure;
Improves traction. For this purpose, deflectors of various variations have been thought out.

Note! State-of-the-art devices are equipped with individual grooves that serve to drain the condensate formed on the steel surface in contact with heated air.

Chimney cap - materials of manufacture

For the reliable functionality of the device, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the selection of material for direct production. Copper is one of the most popular materials because it is durable and has an aesthetic appearance. If the cap for the chimney pipe is made of any other building material, then all mounting elements must be brass.

Useful information! For the manufacture of such devices, it is better not to combine materials. Since copper, in contact with other materials, is oxidized. Consequently, the service life of the chimney is significantly reduced.

The weather vane looks spectacular on the chimney, made of stainless steel or galvanized. The most popular is the stainless steel device with polymer sheathing. The service life of such a device reaches 20 years. Polymer coating provides the ability to match the hood to match the roof.

A variety of chimney caps

The type of weather vane is based on the structure of the pipe and the external shape.

Varieties of chimneys:

Generally accepted. This type of weather vane looks like a hut on top of a pipe. This kind of structure can have a variety of configurations;
European chimney fittings. A key feature of the structure is the rounded cap. The main task of the product is to prevent the formation of condensate and ventilate the room;
Multi-slope dome device. The advantage of the design is that there are two slopes. This kind of product contributes to the maximum saving of the pipe from precipitation;

Cover with weather vane. The structure is equipped with various figures on top;

With opening lid. Such a structure allows you to quickly perform all the necessary manipulations regarding pipe maintenance. Dimensional ventilation is the key;
With deflector. This design can be additionally equipped with an opening cover. Provides a direct effect on traction power.

Related article:

How to choose and buy a chimney cap, given its structure?

When choosing a product, it is necessary to take into account the direct structure of the chimney. The ideal option is a three-layer modular device. With such a device, you don't have to worry about protecting the chimney from precipitation. Since, all the moisture that gets inside the structure is collected in the collector.

When it comes to gas devices, in this case, the nozzle is preferable. The best option for a solid fuel system is a vane deflector.

There are no contraindications for brick pipes in conjunction with a solid fuel system and you can give preference to any cap you like.

Note! Using gas systems the installation of umbrellas is strictly prohibited.

Making a visor with your own hand

To correctly make a cap on a chimney with your own hands, you should use drawings of simpler samples.

The following devices and materials are required for work:

Galvanized steel, copper or stainless steel;
Metal scissors;
Pliers, mallet, vice.

Useful information! Use a ruler and metal angle for measurements.

Algorithm of work execution:

The manufacture of the visor must begin with measurements of the chimney.
Formation of the scheme on paper. It should be borne in mind that the device must be put on the pipe freely. Consequently, a gap of about 2-3 mm is added to the existing dimensions of the pipe.

The finished drawing must be transferred to the building material and cut;
The sides of the workpiece are bent along the dotted line "a" to an angle of 90 degrees. Then a similar procedure must be performed with the straight lines marked with the letter "d". At the points of attachment, it is necessary to make 3 through holes (step 15-20 cm) and fasten the structure with rivets;

The apron-drip pattern should be moved to the material and cut out. All sides of the product are bent and fastened together with rivets.

It is necessary to make supports of the appropriate length from the plate by welding them to the apron and the cap. The formed seams must be treated with a metal primer.

Helpful advice! An anti-corrosion agent should be applied to the manufactured cap and painted in several layers.

Purpose and application of deflectors

The deflector is a structure that is designed to improve traction while creating a vacuum in the chimney.

There are a number of generally established forms:

TsAGI type;
Rounded type;
Grigorovich's device;
Opened and H-shaped.

The structure contains several separate parts:

Bottom type cylinder;
Diffuser;
Umbrella.

The diffuser has a cylindrical shape, located in the upper part of the building, and the umbrella implements safety functions. Products of this kind are made of galvanized steel, which eliminates the corrosion procedure, preventing the pipe from clogging up with debris.

Do-it-yourself chimney deflector drawings and photos

To make a deflector, first of all, it is necessary to develop drawings of the future device, which are integral elements of the work.

To make correct calculations regarding the design parameter, it is necessary to know the inner diameter of the chimney.

Table for the correct calculation of the chimney deflector.

Chimney inner diameter d, mm	Deflector height H, mm	Diffuser width D, mm
120	144	240
140	168	280
200	240	400
400	480	800
500	600	1 000

Algorithm for making manipulations:

All elements of the drawing are transferred to paper;
The paper elements of the building are pre-connected as they should be in the final form;
From paper, all elements are transferred to the building material and cut out;
For the manufacture of the diffuser, the metal is rolled into a cylindrical structure. The edges of the structure are held together;
The outer cylinder is manufactured in the same way;
Strips (3-4 pcs.) Are made of metal material about 20 cm long and 6 cm thick. The elements are attached to the cap;
The umbrella is attached to the diffuser and integrated into the outer cylinder.

Helpful advice! In places where the structure is bent, the metal should be bent and tapped to make it thinner.

Chimneys for brick pipes and forged hoods for chimneys: features and prices

In the open spaces of the Runet, there are many tips and videos on how to make a visor for a chimney with your own hands. However, not everyone has a desire to engage in the production of their own design, and many prefer to purchase a finished device.

It is possible to purchase chimneys for brick pipes within the range of 700 - 7000 rubles, depending on the complexity of the structure. To buy a cap of the simplest design, you will have to spend about 400 rubles.

Chimney deflector gas equipment not recommended to install. Insofar as low temperature gases in winter can cause the horizontal part of the flue gas outlet to freeze, and the deflector contributes to the strengthening of this kind of tendency.

Experts do not recommend weather vanes, since their rotating elements fail quite quickly. In winter, due to the formation of condensation, they are covered with ice, which leads to loosening of the pipe masonry. Hence, the best option for chimneys are visors.

An example of a smart deflector with a swivel hood

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