What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Floor-standing toilets have long been out of competition, but things are changing. The owners of modern apartments are increasingly opting for pendant models. This pleasure is not cheap, but this is practically the only drawback of such a solution. But among the advantages of the construction are its excellent design and ease of maintenance.

It is important that the installation of a wall-hung toilet is carried out in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how and in what sequence the work is carried out, what devices are required to attach the bowl. Taking into account our recommendations, you can do everything yourself or control the actions of the plumbers.

House master easily cope with the installation wall model if he understands distinctive features its design.

The visible element of such a plumbing fixture is the toilet bowl itself. Its installation on the wall is carried out in two ways: using an installation and on a concrete base. In this article, we'll cover both options.

A suspended toilet model is more expensive than a conventional floor-standing version, but you can reduce costs if you install the product yourself

The strengths and weaknesses of the suspended type of plumbing are listed, in which the varieties and design specifics are described in detail, guidelines are given for choosing the model that is optimal for you personally.

The design of a wall-mounted plumbing device can be conditionally divided into three main elements, which will be discussed further.

Robust steel frame (module)

The frame is the main element of the entire structure, which is attached to the floor and to the wall of the bathroom. It is the frame that is the support for the cistern and bowl. The quality of the subsequent operation of the product depends on its reliability. After putting the toilet into operation, the structure must have a sufficient margin of safety to withstand the weight of an adult.

To secure the frame, you must have a solid base. Plasterboard walls cannot be considered in this capacity. The frame is equipped with a mechanism that allows you to vary the installation height of the toilet bowl in the range of 40-43 cm. To securely fix the bowl, manufacturers recommend using strong pins made of steel.

In this photo, all three structural elements of the toilet are clearly visible: a light blue frame, a gray-blue plastic cistern with a drain button and a white bowl.

The best models of support frames for suspended plumbing are listed, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Concealed cistern

The hidden fastening of this element, according to the adherents of the wall model, is considered one of the advantages of the design. The material for its manufacture is a very durable plastic. To prevent condensation from accumulating on the surface, the plastic is treated with styrene.

The tank has a flat shape with a technological cutout on one side. This cut-out is required for the device of the drain button. This hole also has one more purpose: it allows you to remove the fittings of the drain tank when performing repair work.

Another feature of overhead cisterns is the economical flush system that can be fitted to such a model. Depending on the need, the drainage dose can be 3 or 6 liters.

Bowl - visible structural element

The cup is chosen, as a rule, based on the personal preferences of users. It is visible and must match the overall interior of the room. In addition, it should be easy to operate.

It is the toilet bowl, as a visible structural element, that should organically fit into the interior of the room: it can even have a square shape

Most buyers prefer an oval product. Although there are round, rectangular and even square models on sale.

Fasteners are part of the selected model and are included in its complete set. You do not need to purchase additional fasteners for a wall-hung toilet. In addition, among the mounted models there are electronic controls and numerous hygienic functions.

Intelligent types of plumbing with retractable nozzles need to be connected to the power supply to perform washing and dehumidification, deodorization and other actions. Their installation is complicated by connecting the power line and setting up the system operation:

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These long steel studs, which go through the holes in the frame and are attached to the wall, are necessary to hold the toilet bowl securely.

Connecting the necessary communications

First of all, we connect the sewerage system. A black tap is used for this connection, which is usually included with the installation. At one end, this branch is fitted to the sewer pipe, and its other end is attached to the frame with special clips.

Water pipes should be located to the right or left of the module. The pipe should be attached to the structure using the existing threaded connection... To connect the water supply, it is better to use copper or polypropylene pipes, and make the connection detachable.

Cold water can also be supplied to the tank using flexible hoses. Such hoses are more profitable in terms of price, but their fragility should be taken into account. And when replacing failed hoses, you will have to perform expensive repairs, so the option with pipes is still preferable.

Do not forget to check how securely the drain container is connected to the water supply system. For this purpose, open the water supply tap. It is located inside the cistern. After filling the container, all possible leaks are eliminated. This can be done without draining the water.

If, in the process of checking the correct connection of the toilet to the sewage system or water supply, leaks are detected, they should be carefully eliminated.

The connection to the sewer should also be checked. To do this, put a toilet bowl on the studs and perform a test drain without finally fixing the structure. After that, the bowl is removed again and all identified leaks, if any, are eliminated.

Execution of finishing works

In the next step, you have to sew up a niche using a moisture-resistant drywall sheet, and then perform Finishing work... Please note that we need exactly moisture-resistant drywall, because ordinary drywall will quickly deteriorate under the influence of condensation.

To carry out finishing work when installing a wall-hung toilet bowl with installation, it is moisture-resistant drywall that can be located in rooms with high humidity without reducing its quality

To cut drywall, you need to use a template that should be included in the installation package. It will allow you to properly cut all the necessary mounting holes without damaging the material.

After installing the moisture-resistant sheet on its surface, you can fix finishing material... Ceramic tiles are most often used to decorate the bathroom.

Final stages of installation

To assembly of the visible part wall-mounted toilet you can start only after the tile adhesive is thoroughly dry.

The procedure for installing the toilet bowl:

the drain tank branch pipe should protrude 50 mm beyond the wall surface: it must be adjusted to this size;
do the same with the branch pipe that leads to the sewer drain;
both branch pipes are installed on their intended places;
on the studs that were fixed in advance, as well as on the nozzles, put on a large gasket, similar in shape to a truncated pyramid;
the bowl is put on the studs and the pipes are attached to it;
put rubber gaskets and plastic inserts in their places;
put on and tighten the fastener nuts;
the protruding parts of the rubber gasket are neatly cut off.

Now you can drain the water from the tank, thereby checking the operation of the sewer drain. The height of the wall-hung toilet bowl installation relative to the floor can be adjusted by changing the position of the studs and sliding pins that are used to secure this element. It should match the height of the toilet visitors.

The height of the bowl can be adjusted in the range of 40-43 cm, but the standard distance is 40 cm from the floor surface

The standard height is 40 cm, measured from the floor surface to the top edge of the bowl.

Mounting the flush plate

The installation process is completed by installing the drain button. It is included in the basic configuration and can be mechanical or pneumatic. Usually this procedure does not cause any problems, since all provided connections should already be brought to the surface of the wall.

Special pins are provided for the mechanical key, and the tubes for the pneumatic key. It remains only to install this element in the place intended for it and adjust its position. That's it: the toilet can be used.

Suspended model on a concrete base

A steel frame is expensive. In principle, you can do without it by erecting a concrete pedestal with your own hands, which will serve as a reliable basis for a hanging toilet. This option is considered the most economical.

The structure of the model on a concrete base includes: 1 - two rods for fixing the toilet bowl, mounted in the wall; 2 - concrete base; 3 - pipe for draining into the sewer

With this method of installation, the drain container can either be built into the wall, while bringing the drain button outward, or placed above the bowl of the sanitary fixture.

Installation preparation procedure

Consider the option that is considered the least expensive. We will prepare everything you need for work:

concrete M200 - about 40 liters;
boards for the manufacture of formwork;
threaded rods (length 50-80 cm, thickness 2 cm) - 2 pieces;
washers, nuts, wood screws;
plastic pipe (diameter 11 cm, length 8 cm);
drain sleeve;
Styrofoam;
silicone sealant.

I think it is worth repeating that the wall with which we have to work must be capital.

Step-by-step installation process

We fix the rods in the main wall, on the outlets of which the toilet bowl will then be mounted. Recall that we should have a stable and robust design capable of supporting a weight of 400 kg.

The next step is to install the drain sleeve. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the toilet bowl in order to cut the sleeve to the appropriate length.

Now we need to install the formwork. To mark the attachment points on the formwork, determine the distance between the holes intended for the attachment.

To calculate the length of the rods, add the depth of the deepening, which is approximately 15 cm, and the distance from the wall to the toilet bowl. To fix the rods in the wall, concrete glue is used - a chemical anchor.

This is how a structure looks like, ready for the concreting process: the place where the drain will be brought to the toilet bowl is covered with foam

When the formwork is installed, and the installation of the pins is completed, the bowl should be installed in the intended place for it. Make sure the mounting holes line up with the outlets and the outlet line matches the drain on the coupling.

The next step is concreting. It must be done by installing the foam in the place where the drain hole will be. Remember that concrete will finally harden only after 28 days.

After that, you can remove the formwork and make sure that in front of us there is a monolithic concrete block with pins protruding from it and an open fixed coupling. A toilet bowl is mounted to the front of the block, and a tank is placed on the base itself.

This is how a suspended toilet will look like after installing the bowl, and its tank will be installed on a concrete base.

The procedure for installing a bowl to a concrete base is no different from installing a floor-standing toilet. It is necessary to install a bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts, connect and seal the drain. Last of all, a drain tank is placed on the concrete base.

As you can see, this method of installing the pendant model is much cheaper and easier than working with the installation. But, to be honest, the result is not much different from a floor-standing toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The information you just read will be perceived much better if you supplement it with a video alongside. We invite you to watch the installation with a wall-mounted toilet bowl with the installation filmed on the video.

The range of plumbing fixtures is expanding: toilets are being improved, updated, becoming more and more attractive. But modern models tend to be more expensive than traditional ones.

Tell us about how you installed a wall-hung toilet in your house / apartment. It is possible that you know technological nuances that will be useful to site visitors. Please write comments, post photos, share your impressions and ask questions in the block below.

When equipping a bathroom in a house or apartment, the owners often face the problem of how to “hide” unaesthetic communication nodes. In addition, they are interested in the question of how to rationally dispose of useful space. There is an excellent option - installing a toilet installation, which solves both problems.

The design for attaching a wall-hung toilet makes it possible to hide all communications and functional parts, including the cistern. The use of the installation visually increases the volume of the room. We will tell you how it is installed, how decorative masking is performed, how the plumbing bowl is then hung.

We have detailed the process of installing the wall-hung toilet support frames and fixing them to the walls and floor. Outlined step by step guides for mounting different types installations. The information presented for consideration was supplemented with visual diagrams, photo selections, video instructions.

Modern market construction and related equipment offers two types of installation systems. Both options are convenient and practical, and the choice depends on which walls the structure will be attached to and which parts of it will have the main operational load.

Block installation- the most simple, a budget option however, certain conditions are required for its installation. The structure can only be used on a main wall, having previously prepared a niche in it for placing a tank and points of connection to a sewage system with a water supply.

The second option involves lining the system with bricks, masking with drywall or other sheet materials, followed by decorative cladding. These actions are performed only at the end of all installation activities.

Strong anchors are required for fastening. It is they who bear the main operational load. The main advantages of the model include reasonable price and the ability to use the installation not only complete with suspended, but also with stationary floor-standing toilets.

A block installation can be "drowned" in a niche made in the main wall, and in this way save usable space in the bathroom

Frame installation belongs to a more complex type of construction, but makes it possible to fix the toilet on thin hollow partitions or drywall walls. It is considered a very reliable system and has all the characteristics to hold both the plumbing module and itself.

Placed on the floor or foundation. Allows several fastening options: with special elements to four points on the wall, to two points on the floor and two -on the wall, or only to the base of the floor by means of stable paws. The main load is applied to the lower part of the base.

The main advantage of the frame installation is the adjustable legs. They are exposed to any desired and convenient height. The design is suitable for installation in rooms of non-standard shape, easily fits into the most unexpected design and can be located even in a corner without concealing useful space bathroom.

The frame installation allows you to place the toilet in any place most convenient for you and does not require the mandatory presence of a capital wall for installation

The dimensions of block systems are always standard. Their width is 50 centimeters, their depth ranges from 10 to 15 cm, and their height does not exceed 1 meter. Frame installations have a base base width of 50 to 60 cm, a depth of 15 to 30 cm, and a height (due to adjustable legs) of 80 cm to 1.4 meters.

For wooden houses or non-capital buildings, experts recommend buying the widest and lowest possible systems. This makes it possible to reduce the load on the walls and ensures the normal functioning of the module for a long time.

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An excellent decoration and an extraordinary detail in the design of a bathroom will be the purchase of a wall-hung toilet. This device does not take up much space, and with the right approach to installation, it will last quite a long time. How to choose a wall-hung toilet, how to install this device, we will talk further.

The device and design of a suspended toilet

Wall hung toilet represents a structure consisting of a bowl and a cistern, which are placed in a suspended state.

A vessel made of porcelain acts as a bowl. The only difference between a wall-hung toilet and a floor-standing toilet is the type of attachment that is carried out from the side.

Hanging toilets are standard. Wall-hung toilet bowl dimensions:

length: 50-60 cm;
width: 30-40 cm;
height 35-45 cm.

The wall-hung toilet system is characterized by the presence of a hidden flush system, which consists of a cistern. It is located behind the partition, and has the following features:

small size, thickness 80-120 mm;
the start button is located on the side;
has a plastic base, equipped with thermal insulation, which prevents the formation of condensation.

The standard volume of the tank is 8-10 liters. To install a cistern, you need pipes, accessories, a side flush button and a flush plate.

Some toilets offer a flush installation, which is carried out due to the presence high pressure in a stream of water. Such a system consists of a special button that has a connection to the water supply system.

Hanging toilet photo:

Benefits of installing a wall hung toilet

1. A suspended toilet bowl saves space in the bathroom, as it has a built-in cistern and does not require a large indent from the wall for installation.

2. The high strength of the toilet bowl will not allow the bowl to break even when suspended.

3. Due to the suspended position of the toilet, the floor under the toilet is easy to clean.

4. A variety of types will allow you to choose a toilet bowl in relation to material and individual preferences.

5. About the wall-hung toilet, reviews characterize this device as a convenient, reliable and durable item.

6. Hanging toilets fully comply with sanitary and hygienic standards.

Varieties of hanging toilet bowls

Depending on the size, hanging toilet bowls are divided into:

small, the length of which does not exceed 550 mm, are installed in small bathrooms, significantly save space;
medium, up to 600 mm long, are the most popular, as they are excellent for installation in any premises;
large, up to 700 mm, are installed if there are elderly or disabled people in the house.

In relation to the design, toilet bowls are distinguished:

wall-mounted type - the frame is fixed to the wall and to the floor;
corner type - they are attached at a certain angle only to the wall, significantly saving space.

Depending on the shape, toilet bowls are distinguished:

round,
rectangular,
square,
oval.

Fastening a wall-hung toilet

There are two ways to attach a wall-hung toilet:

using a ready-made installation system,
concrete screed.

The first option is more expensive but less complicated. The complete installation system consists of a steel frame that is attached to the wall and to the floor. To fix the frame, four points are used: two are located on the wall, and two are on the floor.

More expensive systems offer a choice of dot width and adjustment.

Such an installation is installed at a distance of 15-18 cm from the wall. The kit includes:

toilet bowls,
drain tank,
flush button panels,
open ceramic drain tank,
installation systems.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet without a ready-made installation

To install the toilet yourself, without using ready-made fasteners, you must have:

two threaded rods, the diameter of which is 2 cm, and the length is 50-80 cm;
four nuts, four washers;
40 liters of concrete mass of the M 200 brand;
several sheets of plywood;
self-tapping screws for wood.

To connect a wall-hung toilet you need:

drain rectangular coupling;
plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 1.10 cm;
silicone sealant.

Instructions for implementation preparatory work before installing the wall-hung toilet:

1. Start installation work with the installation of the drain coupling. This process will help determine the height of the toilet bowl.

2. If the height is too high, the coupling may be cut off. If the height is insufficient, a section of the sewer pipe is added.

3. Measure the distance of the boards for the construction of the formwork. Increase the distance a few centimeters for headroom.

4. Using a tape measure, measure the interval between the attachment points of the fasteners. The standard distance is 20 cm.

5. After taking measurements, transfer the data to the plywood sheets for the manufacture of the formwork panel. As a material for the shield, chipboard, plywood or other boards are suitable.

6. Recheck the correctness of the measurements.

7. Cut off the threaded rods. The length of the rods is the distance between the end point of penetration into the wall, the distance between the wall and the toilet, the installation length of the toilet and the end for tightening the nuts.

8. There are two ways to attach the rods:

wall fastening, which is carried out with a washer and a nut m 20, the simplicity and versatility of this method make it more popular, in order to attach the rod, you just need to drill a hole in the wall, put on the washer and tighten the nut, this way suitable for any walls;
if there is no access to the outside of the wall, fix the rod with glue or a special tool such as a “chemical anchor”, Drill a hole in the wall, the minimum length of which is 14 cm, clean it from dust, fill with glue and install the rod, this method is suitable for walls, made of concrete, brick, foam blocks, wood,

9. After the formwork is assembled, a structure consisting of three panels is obtained, which has holes for installing the rods.

Tip: Before fixing the formwork panels, the socket outlet should be closed with a plastic bag, so that concrete and dirt do not get into the drainage system.

10. The correctness of the assembly of wooden panels is checked by the building level. To make the formwork more stable, install the rods and tighten the nuts.

11. Try on the toilet bowl, setting it to the future location, after completing the construction of the formwork. If there are any shortcomings, it is not too late to fix them.

Tip: In order to leave a place for connecting the toilet after pouring the formwork with concrete, a small rectangular piece of foam should be attached to the rod.

12. After completing the preparatory work, proceed to pouring concrete. To prepare a concrete solution for one part of cement, take two parts of sand, three parts of rubble and a seventh of water.

Tip: It is recommended to add a little liquid soap to make the concrete easily fall on the surface in the water.

13. For placing concrete, use a trowel, install in small portions. Gradually leveling the surface.

14. The rods for installing the toilet should also be covered with polyethylene so that concrete does not fall on them.

15. To compact the concrete, use a long rod with which to gradually pierce the poured surface, paying attention to the corners.

16. After pouring the formwork, 7-10 days must pass before it is removed.

17. Use flexible PVC corrugation to connect the cistern. Insert it into the hole in the toilet, secure with sealant.

18. Fix the pipe in this position and leave it for 24 hours to completely dry the silicone.

Installing a wall-hung toilet

1. To make a reliable sealing of the joint between the toilet bowl and the rubber ring, apply silicone around the perimeter of these devices.

2. Place the toilet on the rods and tighten the nuts.

3. Wait 12 hours for the sealant to cure.

4. Connect the toilet to the drain.

5. Install the toilet lid.

6. For finishing the concrete base, use any moisture resistant materials.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet with an installation

Most frames for wall-hung toilets allow height adjustment. Before starting the installation, measurements and markings should be made. Before installation, it is recommended to study the instructions, which usually indicate the interval between the cistern and the floor. The average value of this distance is equal to one meter.

Before starting the installation work, take care of the outlet of the sewer and water pipes. The frame is fastened with anchor bolts. They are able to fix it in one position, and ensure the immobility of the structure.

When installing the frame on a wooden floor, you should use the most powerful wood screws.

Before fixing the installation, measure the evenness of the structure again. Use a normal level to level the frame. Measure the front, back, top, and bottom. To secure the correct settings, use studs and rods that are capable of temporarily attaching the frame to the wall.

The height of the bowl is selected in accordance with the individual parameters of the people living. The average height, which is optimal for the average adult, is 400 mm.

To connect the toilet, use a flexible hose, to connect to the water supply, use a metal hose to ensure the reliability and durability of the connection.

Tip: Close the valve on the cistern when connecting the toilet to the water supply.

For exterior decoration use any materials that must be waterproof.

Do not block access to the drain tank in order to carry out preventive or repair work at any time.

Wall hung toilet installation video:

Hanging toilet models are becoming more and more popular. Consumers appreciated their advantages over classic devices.

Wall-mounted toilets can be a great option for limited-sized bathrooms as they are very compact. The intended use is absolutely no different from the classic models. As well as internal organization... But the communications and the drain tank of the wall-hung toilet are hidden in the wall. Only the bowl and the drain button are visible.

To install a suspended plumbing device in the toilet, you will have to make a major overhaul. But what can't you do for the sake of comfort and aesthetics. Installation can be done in two ways: on an installation and on a concrete base.

The construction of wall-hung toilet bowls is similar to the floor-standing ones. They consist of a bowl with an outlet and a tank with a water supply and drainage mechanism. The principles of their work are absolutely the same. The main difference is how the structural elements are placed during installation and which ones have special features in this regard.

Components of a wall-hung toilet:

Installation Is a steel frame that is fixed to the floor and wall. She holds the bowl and tank.
Bowl- the visible part of the structure, differs from the floor one in shape. Takes up only the wall area, the floor space remains free.
Tank- built into the frame. It has a flat shape. Made from high quality plastic.

All fasteners and seals are included with the structure.

Installations for the installation of plumbing devices are of two types:

Hanging toilets also differ in the type of bowl. In shape, they can look like floor-standing ones with a cut-off leg, they are round, ovoid, square and rectangular. You can find bowls of different sizes, for convenience they are combined into conditional groups:

Compact or shortened (up to 50 cm in length);
Medium (length as for standard floor models - 50-60 cm);
Increased (up to 65-70 cm in length).

Some bowls have improved design or expanded functionality:

For the manufacture of hanging bowls, the same materials are used as for floor bowls: porcelain, faience, metal, plastic, glass. Some manufacturers make real design objects out of wall-hung toilet bowls: they apply drawings, paint bowls in bright colors, and give them an unusual shape.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before buying a custom toilet model, you should evaluate all its advantages and disadvantages. The operation of a floor-standing plumbing device is familiar and familiar to everyone, while a wall-mounted toilet is a novelty for many and how convenient it will be to use is not clear. Let's try to understand this issue.

Features of wall-hung toilet:

Saves room space. In fact it is very controversial... The effect is rather visual. The installation depth is on average 15 cm, to this should be added a false wall, the value will be slightly less than the width of a classic tank with an indent from the wall.
Hides communications. On the one hand, it is aesthetically pleasing and solves the problem of unsightly pipes, on the other hand, in the event of a breakdown, access to them for repair will be difficult.
Has a tank built into the wall. Outside, only the drain button remains, it is through the hole for its installation that it will be possible to gain access to the drain tank fittings in case of a breakdown, you must agree, it is not very convenient.
It looks unusual and beautiful. The outer part of the structure is laconic and graceful - this is indisputable.
Easy to clean. The bowl does not touch the floor, so it is easy to clean. In case of classic models- the leg and the joint with the floor are the most problematic areas for cleaning.
Use for its intended purpose is no different from the floor. However, many people, especially those with a large weight, have a psychological barrier that the bowl can move away from the wall. In fact, it holds very tightly and freely withstands a load of 150 kg.
Its cost is higher than the floor one. The price varies in a wide range, the most economical option is to mount the bowl on a concrete base without installation.
The installation of the device is complicated. Of course, it will require more time and effort. In addition to connecting to communications, it will be necessary to fix the frame and hide it behind a plasterboard wall.

The choice of a wall-hung toilet is more a matter of taste than a search for a rational solution for a bathroom. Considering the fact that these models are gaining more and more popularity and have positive feedback from the owners, the installation of devices of this type may make sense.

Mounting a wall-hung toilet with installation

First, you need to determine the place where the toilet with installation will be installed. The main requirement for the site is strength. You cannot fix the frame to drywall. For installation in a wooden floor, you will need additional fasteners. Ideal if the floor and walls are made of concrete.

The main load is borne by the installation, so the strength of the structure depends on the quality of the frame fastening to the wall and floor.

Installation of the installation is carried out in stages according to the instructions:

The next stage of work is the installation of a false wall. It can be made from any material. Waterproof drywall is suitable, it is easy to cut and easy to install. First, set the metal profiles, then make holes in the drywall sheets for sewer pipe, tank supply to the bowl, pins and flush buttons. Sheathe the box for installation. Tile or paint.

All that remains is to install the bowl and the flush plate. The bowl must be put on the pins, make sure that all the pipes come together in the right place. Press the device against the wall so that there are no gaps and fix the bowl with bolts. The last button to be installed is the water drain button. Now you need to check the operation of the structure and you can use the toilet for its intended purpose.

Installing a suspended toilet bowl with installation requires accurate preliminary marking, how to do it correctly and install the device, watch the video.

Mounting a wall-hung toilet on a concrete base

The key difference between this method is the absence of installation. You will need to purchase a hanging bowl, a drain tank and two long (from 30 cm) metal pins. The wall for attaching such a toilet must be load-bearing.

The rods that will hold the bowl must go through the wall. On the reverse side, they must be secured with a nut. If this is not possible, then concrete glue must be poured into the prepared holes.

The sewer pipe will hide in concrete block, which will need to be made from a mixture of cement, sand, gravel, soap or dish detergent and water.

Stages of work:

Now you can sew up the wall and do the finishing work. As a result, only the bowl will remain visible. For access to communications, it is recommended to make a door in the wall.

Designers' drive for improvement appearance toilet bowls, the creation of stylish bathrooms contributed to the popularization of block and frame structures with a hinged bowl.

The installation itself is not cheap, and you will have to pay extra for its installation. Therefore, many home craftsmen hone plumbing skills and carry out installation work on their own. Agree, it would be nice to save money by attaching the toilet to the installation with your own hands?

We will help you with this issue. In the article, we describe in detail the device, the principle of operation and types of structures, and also give step by step technology and photo instructions for installing the toilet.

If the view external elements installation depends only on the imagination of the designer, the device of its internal structure can be divided into 2 options: frame and block.

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The frame of the drain button is latched and can be easily removed. There is a hole under it for supplying a water supply hose with a compact tap. Within this "mounting" window on the front wall of the tank there is a and, which is unscrewed from the tank by hand and repaired without dismantling the box.

Myth number 3... A hanging toilet takes up a minimum of space.

Block and frame installations require an additional 20-25 cm of bathroom space. Therefore, these designs take up even more space than a floor-standing toilet. The only way to reduce the space is to locate the installation in a wall niche.

Myth number 4... There are no spare parts for block installations.

The sizes of components are standardized by most manufacturers, because repairable models have priority when buying. In plumbing stores, picking up a broken part is not difficult. In addition, you can do it yourself.

Step-by-step installation of the installation and the toilet

Installing a plumbing installation yourself is easy. The main danger lies in the leakage of the joint between the sewer pipe and the toilet nipple after the final installation.

To avoid such problems, you must follow all the rules for the step-by-step installation of the installation. Next, we will consider the installation diagrams of toilets with various designs.

Required tools

To carry out the installation of the installation and attaching the toilet to it, the following tools and materials are needed:

Screwdriver.
Adjustable wrench.
Hammer drill with drills.
Pliers.
Dowels and bolts.
Hammer.
Level.
Roulette with a marker.
Silicone.

A minimum of tools and materials are listed that will come in handy when installing the installation itself. When installing the box, other devices are needed, but it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installing a block installation

There are two ways to install a block installation:

In a specially prepared niche in the wall.
On a concrete slab, which is then sewn up with plasterboard.

Regardless of the type of installation, the list of steps for assembling the installation remains the same.

Step one... Drawing of markings in the bathroom. In small narrow rooms, the toilet is installed along its axis, and in large rooms, it is better to place the bowl along the drain axis.

First, you need to draw a line with a marker or chalk from the corner to the corner of the room along the wall where the installation is planned. Then, along the axis of the installation of the bowl, it is necessary to draw a line perpendicular to the first line, using a building corner.

Step two... Formation of anchorage points. In accordance with the intended axis of the bowl installation, the fixation points of the block structure are determined. If the axis of the bowl and the wall are skewed, wooden or plastic spacers can be placed under the mounts to achieve an angle of 90 degrees.

In loose concrete slabs, preference is given to fastening with dowels, which provide the maximum contact area of the fasteners with the wall

It is imperative to center the location of the plugs relative to the middle of the toilet drain hole. If the distance between the attachment points of the block is 60 cm, then each hole for the dowel should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from the axis of the bowl.

After marking, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill and insert the fasteners supplied with the product into them.

Step three... Fixing the block structure. The drain tank is screwed or anchored to the wall. After that, a water hose is supplied to the structure, and nozzles are attached, which will dock with the toilet bowl.

Inside the "mounting" window, there is usually a supplied flexible hose, into which water is supplied through an adapter with a tap

Step four... Screwing in the support pins of the bowl. After fixing the block mechanism, the toilet bowl is attached to it. Metal rods are inserted into the holes for its attachment and the places of their attachment on the wall are determined so that the height of the toilet seat is 40-48 cm.

The rods are made of ultra-strong rigid steel and can withstand a load of up to 450 kg without deformation. Subsequently, changing their location without dismantling the decorative box will not work.

After that, the toilet is removed, and holes are drilled into the concrete slab under the rods, which are then fixed in the wall with fasteners.

Step five... Sewer drain installation. The toilet bowl is hung on the support pins and a pipe for draining the water from the tank is inserted into it. After that, the sewerage scheme is determined and installed with rigid fixation of the 110-mm outlet pipe.

Rigid fixation of the sewer line is required, because when installing the toilet bowl, the pipe should not change its position

Step six... Sheathing of block installation and installation of a toilet bowl. After installing the sewerage, the toilet bowl is removed and the decorative sheathing of the entire sanitary structure with tiles or moisture-resistant plasterboard begins.

The drain button and its frame are installed last. But the operation of the drainage mechanism should be tested only after the sealant has dried at the sewer joint.

When the trimming work is completed, the drain button is mounted, and the bowl is pushed onto the drain pipes and support metal pins. After that, the toilet is attached to the wall with nuts.

Instead of cladding the drain hole of the block structure, support rods and sewers, they are sometimes filled with concrete.

When mixing concrete for pouring, it is necessary to buy only certified materials, as well as observe the technology, because the structure will experience heavy loads

For this, after the fifth step, a general wooden formwork is mounted around the indicated structures, and its internal volume is filled with concrete. In 5-7 days after pouring, the formwork is removed, and the toilet bowl is docked with the support pins rigidly fixed in concrete, sewer pipes and a tank drain.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a frame installation

The installation of a frame installation with a toilet bowl can be carried out in any place in the bathroom. Single-frame structures are attached simultaneously to the wall and the floor, while installations with a double frame can be installed in the middle of the room in a special partition.

The installation of both design options differs only in the place of attachment of the metal frame and the shape of the decorative cladding, therefore their installation will be considered within the framework of one step-by-step instruction.

Step one... Assembling the frame structure. Installation of the installation begins with the assembly of the metal frame. To compensate for unevenness in the floor and walls, retractable legs are provided in the frame structure. After adjusting the position of the frame according to the level, the legs are rigidly fixed in the required position.

There is a special mechanism for adjusting the distance between the wall and the frame. Fixing the position of the presser foot must be rigidly made to avoid possible skewing of the frame.

The installation is applied to the installation site, and the marker marks the places in which it is necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

Step two... Installing the tank on a metal frame. The height of the water tank can also be adjusted, but not in all installation models. The recommended height of the release button is 1 m from the floor surface.

The height of the drain button is not critical for the operation of the mechanism, but surveys indicate that 100 cm is the best option

Based on this parameter, the level of the location of the drain tank inside the metal frame is selected. Fittings for draining water are mounted together with the tank.

Frame structures often have a height-adjustable horizontal metal strip. It has holes or clips for attaching the support rods of the toilet bowl, drain pipes for water from the tank and sewerage system.

Step three... Sewerage installation. A 110 mm sewer pipe is laid to the frame.

Step four... Fastening the frame structure. Holes are drilled to secure the metal frame, and then it is screwed or anchored to the wall and floor at the designated points. Optimal distance from the frame of the frame to the wall - 140-195 mm.

It will not be possible to screw the frame close to the wall, because a 110 mm sewer pipe must still fit behind the metal legs

The sewer pipe is fixed to the frame using the available fasteners.

After the frame installation is completely assembled, it is necessary to make sure that the support height of the pins and nozzles is correctly adjusted. For this, a toilet bowl is hung on the structure.

Step five... Leak test. Connected to the drain tank water pipe and the tap opens. After filling the tank, a test drain is performed. If there are no leaks, the toilet bowl is removed and the installation is covered.

Step six... Formation of a box around the frame installation.

There are two ways to close the metal frame:

sew up with drywall;
overlay with bricks and tiles.

Before insulating the installation, it is necessary to close its branch pipes with plugs or plastic bags. For cladding, you must use a moisture resistant gypsum plasterboard 12.5 mm thick. The box will be a decorative element that does not bear the support load.

The front panel of the box must be reinforced from behind with a metal profile so that if you accidentally press on the drywall with your hand, it does not burst or fall

When covering, it is necessary to provide for the formation of holes for the nozzles and support pins of the toilet bowl in advance.

Step seven... Fastening the toilet bowl to the installation frame. You can proceed to the installation of the toilet bowl for installation immediately after plastering and painting the plasterboard box. If the metal frame was lined with bricks and tiles, then the toilet should be placed on it 10 days after the end of the work.

Between the bowl and the wall, instead of silicone, you can put a layer of insulation with a thickness of 1-2 mm to prevent cracking of the ceramic coating under loads

Before putting the toilet bowl on the support pins, it is necessary to lubricate the rubber gaskets of the sewer pipes and the drain hole of the tank with silicone. Also, a layer of sealant is applied to the back wall of the toilet bowl at a distance of 5 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter of contact with the wall.

The bowl is fixed to the wall with two bolts screwed onto metal pins. After a day, you can make a test drain to check the operation of the entire installation.

Block and frame installations do not necessarily involve the installation of a hinged toilet bowl. It can be installed classically on the floor. The installation scheme for a floor-standing toilet differs from the above methods only in the location of the fasteners and the sewer pipe.

When installing the toilet on the floor, it is fixed both on the supporting horizontal rods and screwed to the floor. Bowl manufacturers choose the type of attachment based on the shape of the product.

When fixing the toilet to the floor, it is necessary to outline and drill into floor tiles two mounting holes. After sheathing the installation with a box, the toilet bowl is mounted to the sewer and cistern drain pipes, and then screwed to the floor using the existing fasteners.

After the final fixation of the toilet, it is necessary to smear around the perimeter of the base silicone sealant to keep water and dirt out of the bowl

It can be additionally used to connect the sewer pipe and the toilet bowl.

The frame must be bolted in at least 4 locations.

The water supply pipe must have a separate shut-off valve in an easily accessible place.

Following the proposed instructions will protect the apartment from flooding and prevent the need to dismantle the decorative box during the first years of the toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Videos in a few minutes will allow you to put together in your head a complete puzzle of the assembly scheme for toilet installations. After viewing them, the step-by-step instructions described above will become clearer and more deliberate.

Frame installation assembly process:

Installing a block installation in a niche:

Fastening the toilet to the installation frame:

The proposed step-by-step instruction installation of a toilet bowl with frame and block installations fits into several hours of work, if you do not take into account the time for creating a decorative box.

The essence of the installation is reduced to an even and strong fastening of the frame, connecting the pipes and docking the toilet bowl with the drain unit. This can be done by every business person who knows how to handle the necessary tool.

Do you have practical skills in attaching a toilet to an installation? Share your own installation experience or ask questions about the topic of the article. The block for comments is located below.