What can be cooked from squid: fast and tasty

Warming from the inside is an inevitable event for most types of baths. It allows you to spend less fuel, faster and better warm up the steam room. Properly made insulation protects the walls of the bath from fungus, decay, prolongs its service life. In this article, we will select inexpensive and safe types of thermal insulation, depending on the material of the walls of the bath, and consider how to install them correctly.

Insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside: we select a heater;
Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: from the ceiling to the floor;
Do-it-yourself warming of a brick bath from the inside;
Insulation of a bath from blocks from the inside
Warming wooden bath from within

Bath insulation from the inside: materials

Different rooms of the bath have different requirements, we will focus on the steam room and washing room, the features of which are high temperature and high humidity. Also, the insulation is selected depending on the material of the walls of the bath.

But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation should be:

Non-toxic, so as not to cause poisoning under the influence of high temperature;
Non-hygroscopic, so as not to absorb moisture;
Resistant to high temperatures and steam;
non-combustible;
Retaining shape even after several years of extreme use;
Resistant to fungus and mold;
Selling at a reasonable price.

Bath heaters

insulation	What room is used	Note
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, reed and sawdust insulation, moss, tow, etc.	Dressing room, rest room.	Natural materials ignite when high temperatures ah, so they are not suitable for a steam room and a washroom. But materials from jute and flax are the best interventional heaters for a chopped bath. There are excellent modern roll insulation from natural materials, but they are very expensive, so they are practically not used for warming a bath.
Mineral heaters.	They can insulate any room in the bath. Most often, plate heaters (mats) that are easy to install are used.	Do not rot, serve up to 30 years, fire resistant, inexpensive. It is with such materials that most Russian baths are insulated.
Polymer materials	FORUMHOUSE masters are not recommended for warming the steam room.	Styrofoam is a wonderful heat insulator, but combustible, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You can not use foam in the steam room. Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex is considered a safe material (the bath of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica is insulated with it). But the FORUMHOUSE masters do not recommend using this material in the steam room either.
Aluminum foil insulation.	It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a particular room.	The principle of operation of such heaters is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to the foil. Some types of foil insulation are made specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperatures, while others begin to release harmful substances when the temperature rises. Foil in the bath is used as a vapor barrier.

Warming the ceiling of the bath from the inside

The bath is insulated from the inside in this order: ceiling - walls - floor. The main part of the heat in the bath goes through the ceiling, so

The thickness of the ceiling insulation is twice the thickness of the wall insulation and is at least 10 cm.

Nomad

We hang a heater of at least 10 cm under the black ceiling. I do not recommend basalt wool, glass wool and polystyrene in the steam room. The insulation can be hung on the lacing. Then foil, a gap along the rails and lining.

Regardless of the material of the walls of the bath, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.

In the insulation of the ceiling, foil is used necessarily.

Insulation of the frame bath from the inside

For warming frame bath most often used rolled mineral insulation.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the type of operation of the bath: if it is supposed to heat it only in summer, a layer of 5 cm is enough; if you plan to heat the bath all year round, the insulation layer should be 10-15 cm (depending on the climate zone).

To insulate the walls of the frame bath from the inside:

A heater is laid in the interbeam space of the structure;
The next layer is a vapor barrier (foil);
ventilation gap;
Sheathing.

The photographs below show how Kochevnik insulated his frame bath. Insulation - basalt wool.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: step-by-step instruction.

The foil acts as a vapor barrier, so it is important that even the slightest holes and damage are absent in it, and all joints are well glued with high-quality tape. The tape is always sold with foil, and its quality must be checked in the store (glue the tape to the foil and try to tear it off).

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: log house

Insulating a chopped and well-caulked bath from the inside will be a tragic mistake. This is not only pointless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of a chopped bath.

Log cabins for a bath are made for two reasons:

To get a classic Russian steam bath, which is heated for a long time and keeps the required level of heat and humidity for a long time. It is the tree that accumulates heat and moisture and gradually “gives it away”. In this case, the bath cannot be sheathed from the inside; you will also have to put up with a large consumption of firewood.
For an image. Not a single bath looks as cool as a chopped one. But often you don’t want to waste time and firewood, you want the bathhouse to be heated in an hour, so insulation, vapor barrier and clapboard lining are done. The frame works only as an external frame, the meaning of the material is lost. In this case, it is cheaper and more correct to build a frame bath.

It happens that a person gets a ready-made bath from a log house, and for various reasons it can be cold. Such a bath can be insulated, but only from the outside.

The pie looks like this:

insulation;
wind protection;
vertical crate to create a ventilation gap;
outer cladding.

And from the inside, you can put foil and sheathe it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.

We put foil on the beam, fasten it with a construction stapler;
We glue ALL joints with foil tape;
We fill vertical slats with a thickness of 1-2 cm;
We fill the lining horizontally, leaving slots at the top and bottom for air circulation.

In a chopped bath, only the floor and ceiling are insulated!

If the ceiling of the chopped bath is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use a heater, but then they pour on the ceiling in a cold attic:

ash;
sand;
expanded clay (it is preferable that the granules are of different sizes);
clay coating.

Insulation from the inside of a brick bath

Brick is not the best suitable material for the construction of a bath, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick baths begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the brick, such a bath needs to be insulated without fail. Warming is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bath look cool from the outside, they make decorative stitching.

Usually the cake of the insulated wall of a brick bath looks like this:

brickwork;
waterproofing,
insulation;
vapor barrier;
sheathing.

Waterproofing between brickwork and insulation is optional: if the walls are built correctly and waterproofed from the foundation, they will not dampen. If there is no confidence in the walls, then it is better to do waterproofing.

Insulation on brick walls bath is attached to the frame.

S4sha FORUMHOUSE member

We build a frame on the wall from a 100x40 beam with a step in the width of the insulation, lay it with a heater, lay a vapor barrier, sew on 20mm slats and sheathe it with clapboard.

The bathhouse of our user S4sha is laid out in half a brick, but it is perfectly steamed even at -30. Its walls are insulated like this:

mineral wool;
vapor barrier (in the steam room - foil);
ventilation gap;
lining.

Insulation thickness - 50 mm.

Insulation of a bath from blocks from the inside

For the construction of a bath, durable and moisture-resistant expanded clay concrete blocks are preferred. Warming of such a bath is thought out even at the stage of its construction. The most important thing here is to remove the ice mass of concrete from the heating circuit. There is a technology promoted by our user ZYBY, which allows you to solve this problem by building a frame-wall of boards indented from the walls of the bath. It is suitable for warming all baths with stone walls.

In order to ventilate and dry the space between the frame and the walls, in the walls of the bath, at the top and bottom of the outside, several vents are made. The products are closed for the time while people are steaming in the bath, the rest of the time they are open for drying.

Insulation cake for the steam room and washing room using this technology:

concrete wall with air;
insulation on the frame-wall (with an indent from the concrete wall);
frame-wall;
foil;
finishing 50th unedged board(aspen, linden or cedar) to get into a steam solid wood.

With this approach, you do not have to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between soarings.

But many owners of a block bath insulate it from the inside traditionally:

concrete wall;
insulation (attached to the frame);
foil;
ventilation gap;
lining.

Insulation of a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside.

Such a bath needs insulation from the outside.

Floor insulation in the bath

Precious bath heat also leaves through the floor, so it also needs to be insulated. For floor insulation in the bath, it is recommended to use expanded clay, as the lightest and most environmentally friendly material.

Expanded clay is poured between the layers of the concrete floor as follows:

pour the first layer of concrete;
wait until it is completely frozen;
expanded clay is poured (layer thickness - 10 cm);
install reinforced grating.
pour a layer of concrete;
make a cement-sand screed.

Summarizing

A good bath is a warm bath. And in order for it to warm up well to the desired temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.

Also in the bath from the inside they insulate:

Windows, doors and all openings - with natural sealants;
outer door– good natural materials.

FORUMHOUSE discusses the issues in detail and discusses them separately. Learn the right way outside. Read our article about . Meet our users and find the answer to any question. Watch our video on how to build a complete bath complex.

A Russian bath with a steam room is a guarantee of health and longevity, but in order for the healing procedures to bring maximum benefit, it is necessary to choose the right insulation for different bath designs, taking into account the different functionality, humidity regime of the premises, the material of individual elements. In addition, it is necessary to know the technology of the insulation process, the observance of which will not only keep the heat in the bath, but also significantly reduce the consumption of energy fuel. To determine which insulation is best for a bath, you need to know the positive and negative sides each type of thermal insulation material.

Types of modern heaters

What heaters can be used in the bath

Manufacturers offer a wide range of thermal insulation materials, but do not forget the traditional methods of insulation that have been used for centuries, which can still be used in the bath today. Among modern heaters of artificial origin, the following are popular:

sheets of extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
the simplest foam;
polyurethane foam;
mineral wool products;
ecowool;
expanded clay gravel and expanded clay concrete slabs;
combined insulation in the form of basalt mats or polystyrene material with a foil coating.

Despite the high thermal insulation qualities of all these materials, for different rooms of the bath building it is necessary to choose the insulation that meets the requirements of safety, environmental friendliness and durability.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam for insulation of the ceiling of the locker room, rest room

Expanded polystyrene (colloquially polystyrene) is used to insulate the walls of the bath from the outside, the attic floor or the floor in the steam room. The advantages of this material include:

high degree of resistance to the effects of a humid environment;
immunity to microorganisms and mold;
does not support open fire;
low specific gravity;
low cost;
simple processing.

The negative characteristics include the “love” of mice for polystyrene, as well as the release of toxic substances by plastic material in the event of a fire in the bath room. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it for warming the steam room. Gnawing material, mice and rats thereby reduce its thermal insulation characteristics. With regard to the release of toxic fumes, we can say that people do not stay in the steam room for too long, and the use of such a heater is quite acceptable. In addition, modern industry produces special types of foam that are approved by SanPiN for use inside residential and public buildings. For example, various decorative elements of the interior - moldings, fillets, skirting boards and more.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material has all the properties that are inherent in the foam, but with a smaller thickness of the product, it is able to maintain the same thermal insulation characteristics. Extruded polystyrene foam is more durable than polystyrene due to its dense structure, as a result of which the duration of its operation increases significantly. The material is a non-combustible insulation. When sparks of fire fall on it, it does not support further combustion. The negative factor is its increased cost compared to the price of its counterpart. However, it is still not recommended to use it to insulate the steam room from the inside, as well as polystyrene, since these materials can withstand temperatures no higher than +75 degrees without losing their properties, and as you know, in the steam room the temperature can sometimes reach significantly higher degrees.

polyurethane foam

Wall insulation with polyurethane foam by spraying

Polyurethane foam in the form of liquid insulation appeared on the market building materials not so long ago. The essence of its application is the spraying of a two-component polyurethane liquid, which, when interacting with air, turns into a foam consisting of 90% air bubbles. After a few minutes, the foam hardens, almost tenfold increasing in volume.

Foamed polyurethane has a whole bunch of positive properties:

high heat and sound insulation qualities;
strength, flexibility and elasticity;
resistance to deformation processes;
environmental safety, since the material is made from pure products, no harmful substances and unpleasant odors are emitted from it when heated;
the ability to easily withstand sudden temperature changes from +100 degrees to -90, which allows the material to be used as thermal insulation for a Russian bath or a Finnish sauna.

Foamed polyurethane used as a heater, in addition to all of the above, is a completely fireproof material, covering all wooden elements with a dense layer, allowing fire to spread. It also protects the wood of buildings from penetration. harmful insects, which naturally extends the life of the bath.

Compared to other types of insulation, polyurethane foam can be easily and quickly applied to any surface, regardless of their configuration. With skillful action, the thickness of the insulating layer can be different.

The negative factors in the use of this type of insulation include the fact that it can only be used if there is a special device that sprays liquid. And its acquisition or lease requires certain financial costs and skills in handling it.

Mineral wool products

Attic floor insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wools differ in the source material, which can be:

fiberglass;
material obtained from the melt of natural stone of rocks - basalt, dolomite, diabase and others;
waste from the metallurgical industry in the form of slag.

Almost all of these types of mineral wool can be used as a heater for a steam room, a washing room and other structural elements bath building. However, compared with polystyrene materials, the thickness of the mineral wool insulation layer increases. Basalt wool is more popular, given its technical characteristics.

Basalt insulation

Floor insulation with basalt wool

The advantage of this material is:

high thermal insulation ability;
resistance to sudden changes in temperature;
the material is not exposed to fire;
has good mechanical strength, low specific gravity;
basalt wool is easily laid on structures of any configuration, excluding the formation of cold bridges at the joints;
duration of the operating period.

But this material also has its drawbacks, which are the fear of water and the fact that rodents are not at all afraid to make their minks in it. Wet basalt wool loses its thermal insulation qualities, and when wet material comes into contact with wooden structures in the latter, the process of decay begins. Therefore use basalt insulation for a bath, and specifically in a steam room is not recommended.

glass wool

Glass wool is used outside the bathhouse

Glass wool, having the same technical characteristics as basalt material, differs from it in that it is not so susceptible to moisture. It tolerates the process of laying and transporting well, crumpled fibers are completely restored.

Mice and rats do not touch it, it fits well, but its use entails the difficulty of installation due to the released small fibers that irritate human skin and are dangerous if they enter the respiratory organs. In addition, the disadvantages of this material include:

short service life;
lower degree of thermal insulation compared to other types of heaters;
the presence of formaldehyde resins in some brands.

slag wool

The insulation is made from blast-furnace slag, which is not distinguished by its environmental friendliness and safety for human health. Of the advantages of slag, it should be noted:

relatively high ability to retain heat and dampen sounds, but to a lesser extent than that of;
low cost;
does not lend itself to rodents, the development of mold and other microorganisms;
simple and easy installation, comparable to the installation of other types of mineral wool.

Of the shortcomings:

Large coefficient of moisture absorption. When wet, it can release acid, which is destructive to metal constructions and fasteners, causing them to corrode.

Low resistance to sudden changes in temperature, which is typical for such premises as baths.

The difficulty of laying, given the excessive fragility of the fibers, which have the same sharp and prickly edges as glass wool.

The presence in the composition of the insulation of such hazardous substances as - phenol, formaldehyde.

Ecowool

Thermal insulation with ecowool by mechanized method

The material is made from recycled materials, which is waste paper fluffed and treated with flame retardants and antiseptics. Has a gray or light gray color, loose fibrous structure. The advantages of this rather new type of insulation include:

good heat and sound insulation properties;
resistance to high temperatures;
does not support open fire for a long time;
well resists the processes of decay; environmentally friendly, if you do not take into account its impregnation with flame retardants and antiseptics. But these substances are low-toxic and non-volatile.

The material can absorb moisture, but also easily releases it into the surrounding space when a certain level of air dryness is reached. After drying, the thermal insulation properties of ecowool remain at the same level. Before applying ecowool to the surface of the insulated structure, the material must be slightly moistened. The lignin present in its composition under the influence of water holds the fibers together and adheres well to any surface. Can be used for insulation attic floors dry method. It is not recommended to use it inside the bath rooms, since the material will not have time to dry after each use of the bath.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay as a floor insulation

For insulation of attic floors, floors, filling cavities in brickwork with "wells", expanded clay gravel of various fractions is used. In terms of thermal conductivity, this material is inferior to many types of insulation, but its main advantage lies in its low price and versatility. In addition to the bulk insulation method, expanded clay granules can be used as a filler for lightweight concrete.

Foil insulation

Foil insulation based on mineral wool

Whatever type of insulation is chosen, when installing it, it is imperative to lay a vapor barrier film. Foil insulation combines both vapor barrier and thermal insulation. But besides this, it also works as a reflector of thermal radiation, preventing heat from escaping through various cracks, loose junction of structures. The material is produced in various versions:

from basalt fiber;
foamed polyethylene;
mineral material;
extruded polystyrene foam.

Polyethylene foam insulation

The thinnest aluminum foil is glued on top of each material. The shiny side of the heat-insulating material should face the inside of the room. It can be used for all structures and bath rooms.

The main essence of the article

When insulating a bath, you must use different kinds thermal insulation materials, which are most effective for rooms of various functionality and meet certain requirements - durability, low cost, the ability to retain heat inside the bath building, and be safe for people's health.

The walls of a bathhouse built of brick or concrete need to be insulated. After all, these materials do not tolerate high humidity and too sharp temperature changes very well. Cobbled and log walls are subject to insulation if their thickness is less than 15 - 20 cm. Further in the article, we will try to figure out how to insulate the bath from the inside, quickly and without straining too much.

Necessary materials

To insulate the bath, we need the following material:

From the tools we will prepare: a hammer, a drill, a hacksaw and a doboynik.

Advice: For sheathing it is worth taking a board of alder or linden. The wood of this breed is resistant to moisture and does not heat up even at very high temperatures.

Styrofoam can not be used to insulate the bath from the inside. With strong heating, these plates begin to release toxic substances harmful to the body.

It is better to use basalt wool, and Penoterm NPP is most suitable as a vapor barrier. Its working, operating temperature reaches a mark of + 150g. The air in the steam room can only warm up to +100 - 120g. Among other things, Penotherm is covered with foil on the outside. This will additionally ensure the safety of heat in the steam room and washing.

We insulate the walls

In order to insulate the walls with high quality, it is imperative to “stuff” the crate. There are two ways to mount the crate - this is the use of wooden slats or the installation of an aluminum structure. On the wooden walls it is fixed with nails, on concrete - with self-tapping screws. The aluminum frame will cost more and be more difficult to assemble, but it will also last longer in high humidity conditions.

Important: The step of the crate is maintained so that the cotton wool can be placed at random, that is, a couple of centimeters closer to each other than the width of the plates.

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Mount the frame under the insulation vertically. This ensures effective ventilation of the "pie" of the walls. The lower elements of the skin - most often becoming unusable - with this method it is easier to change, since they will be located horizontally.

The technology of warming the bath from the inside is as follows:

Basalt wool slabs are inserted into the crate.
The vapor barrier is stuffed. It is fixed with slats about 3 mm thick to ensure ventilation. Stretch "Penoterm" with foil to the room.
The cladding is installed. The lining is attached to clips or kleimers. The boards are nailed onto nails (we always choose galvanized nails), sinking the latter into the wood with a finisher. Hats should not be left unfilled. Under the influence of hot steam, the metal heats up and you can get burned on the nails on the walls.

Working on the ceiling

The overlap of the bath should also be insulated. Usually this procedure is performed outside. However, if erected shed roof, this may be difficult to achieve. In this scenario, thermal insulation is done from the inside. Sheathing is done in the same manner as wall insulation. The only thing is that the slabs on the floor will have to be additionally fixed with “fungi”. The thickness of the insulation should be at least 20 cm, since much more heat escapes through the ceiling in the steam room than through the walls. The overlap of the vapor barrier at the junction of walls and ceiling is about 20 cm.

Insulation of floors, windows and doors

It will be possible to perfectly insulate the bath from the inside only if close attention is paid, including to the floor. It is used to isolate mineral wool and expanded clay. The floor itself is made slightly inclined and waterproofed. Water is drained through a pipe into a receiving well. Wool is also used to insulate windows. The door is sheathed with felt around the perimeter. It is not bad to additionally upholster with cotton and canvas. Of course, there should not be any gaps between the boards in the door leaf.

To make the bath really warm and cozy, the heater is installed in its center, usually near the wall separating the steam room and the dressing room.

In fact, the work of warming the bath from the inside is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to choose the right materials and strictly follow the order of their installation.

Video on warming the bath from the inside.:

Source: postroju-dom.ru

Bath insulation from the inside: cheap and safe

Step-by-step instructions for different bath wall materials

Insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside: we select a heater;
Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: from the ceiling to the floor;
Do-it-yourself warming of a brick bath from the inside;
Insulation of a bath from blocks from the inside
Insulation of a wooden bath from the inside

Bath insulation from the inside: materials

But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation should be:

Non-toxic, so as not to cause poisoning under the influence of high temperature;
Non-hygroscopic, so as not to absorb moisture;
Resistant to high temperatures and steam;
non-combustible;
Retaining shape even after several years of extreme use;
Resistant to fungus and mold;
Selling at a reasonable price.

Bath heaters

insulation	What room is used	Note
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, reed and sawdust insulation, moss, tow, etc.	Dressing room, rest room.	Natural materials ignite at high temperatures, therefore they are not suitable for steam and washing rooms. But materials from jute and flax are the best interventional heaters for a chopped bath. There are excellent modern rolled heaters made from natural materials, but they are very expensive, so they are practically not used for warming a bath.
Mineral heaters.	They can insulate any room in the bath. Most often, plate heaters (mats) that are easy to install are used.	Do not rot, serve up to 30 years, fire resistant, inexpensive. It is with such materials that most Russian baths are insulated.
Polymer materials	FORUMHOUSE masters are not recommended for warming the steam room.	Styrofoam is a wonderful heat insulator, but combustible, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You can not use foam in the steam room. Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex is considered a safe material (the bath of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica is insulated with it). But the FORUMHOUSE masters do not recommend using this material in the steam room either.
Aluminum foil insulation.	It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a particular room.	The principle of operation of such heaters is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to the foil. Some types of foil insulation are made specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperatures, while others begin to release harmful substances when the temperature rises. Foil in the bath is used as a vapor barrier.

Warming the ceiling of the bath from the inside

The bath is insulated from the inside in this order: ceiling - walls - floor. The main part of the heat in the bath goes through the ceiling, so

Regardless of the material of the walls of the bath, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.

Insulation of the frame bath from the inside

To insulate the frame bath, rolled mineral insulation is most often used.

To insulate the walls of the frame bath from the inside:

A heater is laid in the interbeam space of the structure;
The next layer is a vapor barrier (foil);
ventilation gap;
Sheathing.

The photographs below show how Kochevnik insulated his frame bath. Insulation - basalt wool.

Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands: step by step instructions.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: log house

Insulating a chopped and well-caulked bath from the inside will be a tragic mistake. This is not only pointless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of a chopped bath.

Log cabins for a bath are made for two reasons:

To get a classic Russian steam bath, which is heated for a long time and keeps the required level of heat and humidity for a long time. It is the tree that accumulates heat and moisture and gradually “gives it away”. In this case, the bath cannot be sheathed from the inside; you will also have to put up with a large consumption of firewood.
For an image. Not a single bath looks as cool as a chopped one. But often you don’t want to waste time and firewood, you want the bathhouse to be heated in an hour, so insulation, vapor barrier and clapboard lining are done. The frame works only as an external frame, the meaning of the material is lost. In this case, it is cheaper and more correct to build a frame bath.

It happens that a person gets a ready-made bath from a log house, and for various reasons it can be cold. Such a bath can be insulated, but only from the outside.

The pie looks like this:

insulation;
wind protection;
vertical crate to create a ventilation gap;
outer cladding.

And from the inside, you can put foil and sheathe it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.

We put foil on the beam, fasten it with a construction stapler;
We glue ALL joints with foil tape;
We fill vertical slats with a thickness of 1-2 cm;
We fill the lining horizontally, leaving slots at the top and bottom for air circulation.

If the ceiling of the chopped bath is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use a heater, but then they pour on the ceiling in a cold attic:

ash;
sand;
expanded clay (it is preferable that the granules are of different sizes);
clay coating.

Insulation from the inside of a brick bath

Brick is not the most suitable material for building a bath, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick baths begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the brick, such a bath needs to be insulated without fail. Warming is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bath look cool from the outside, they make decorative stitching.

Usually the cake of the insulated wall of a brick bath looks like this:

brickwork;
waterproofing,
insulation;
vapor barrier;
sheathing.

Insulation on the brick walls of the bath is attached to the frame.

We build a frame on the wall from a 100 × 40 beam with a step in the width of the insulation, lay it with a heater, lay a vapor barrier, sew on 20mm slats and sheathe it with clapboard.

The bathhouse of our user S4sha is laid out in half a brick, but it is perfectly steamed even at -30. Its walls are insulated like this:

mineral wool;
vapor barrier (in the steam room - foil);
ventilation gap;
lining.

Insulation thickness - 50 mm.

Insulation of a bath from blocks from the inside

Insulation cake for the steam room and washing room using this technology:

concrete wall with air;
insulation on the frame-wall (with an indent from the concrete wall);
frame-wall;
foil;
finishing with the 50th unedged board (aspen, linden or cedar) to get solid wood in a steam room.

With this approach, you do not have to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between soarings.

But many owners of a block bath insulate it from the inside traditionally:

concrete wall;
insulation (attached to the frame);
foil;
ventilation gap;
lining.

Such a bath needs insulation from the outside.

Floor insulation in the bath

Expanded clay is poured between the layers of the concrete floor as follows:

pour the first layer of concrete;
wait until it is completely frozen;
expanded clay is poured (layer thickness - 10 cm);
install reinforced grating.
pour a layer of concrete;
make a cement-sand screed.

Summarizing

A good bath is a warm bath. And in order for it to warm up well to the desired temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.

Also in the bath from the inside they insulate:

Windows, doors and all openings - with natural sealants;
Outer door - good natural materials.

At FORUMHOUSE, the issues of steam room insulation are analyzed in detail, the insulation of the steam room ceiling is discussed separately. Learn how to properly insulate a log bath from the outside. Read our article about floor insulation in the bath. Check out our user's sauna building guide and find the answer to any question about bath construction. Watch our video on how to build a complete bath complex.

Source: www.forumhouse.ru

We warm the bath with our own hands

External or internal insulation of the bath is a must. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the process of cooling the air in the premises. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We warm the bath with our own hands

Before the construction of the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for warming a bath

Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the bath rooms separately, using materials specially created for this. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a draft building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important, the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

http://kakpravilnosdelat.ru/kak-uteplit-banyu/

When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

resistance to steam and high temperatures;
good fire-fighting properties;
environmental friendliness;
low hygroscopicity;
the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All presented on construction markets heaters are divided into three conditional groups:

Organic. Natural materials ignite at high temperatures, so they cannot be insulated with a steam room. They are perfect for a dressing room or lounge.
Mineral. This is the right tool for internal insulation any part of the bath. Time-tested, mineral slabs cannot cause harm, since most of their composition is cotton wool. For a steam room, stone wool is the best option.

Stone wool meets all the requirements for heaters for a bath, so it is used even in a steam room

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need to manually collect them. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be bought at hardware stores. As for moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. It is said that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper felling of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The laying procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Warming of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows in just in them. It is best to insulate a frame made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.

Jute fiber is often cut off at the finish, but these edges can be punched with a hammer and caulking

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers are trying to add flax fibers to it. But if there is already loose material available, you can perform classic caulking. So it will be less work, and the building will surely retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all the problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

During construction, pieces of jute are placed between logs or timber.

Jute fabric comes in rolls, so laying it is quite convenient.

Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks

If the log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then the masonry will have to work hard. Yes, and there are more financial investments for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. It is better to work, investing in materials, than to stock up on fuel all the time.

A common and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe them with siding or clapboard on top. In the gap between the layers, an air-filled space is formed, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for a ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, which prevents the formation of condensate

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: indoors, a steam room is made of wood. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small steam room naturally if you use a small frame.

Enough timber 10x10 and crates. The process of warming such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

A crate is stuffed onto the beam, then stone wool is fixed.
Foil insulation is attached on top of the cotton wool layer.
As a finishing layer, lining is most often mounted.

A crate is stuffed onto the base of the timber, stone wool is inserted into it, and then a layer of foil material is attached

You can make it even easier: do not use a beam, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, you will need an additional layer of waterproofing.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washing room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

Roll paper (on the ceiling and walls).
Beam-rail (5x5, for mounting insulation on the ceiling and walls).
Foil.
Insulating tape.
Self-tapping screws.
Aluminum adhesive tape.
Insulation, calculated on the area of \u200b\u200bwalls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath

Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and end with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should linger as long as possible.

The ceiling is insulated as tightly as possible, preferably before installing the stove

We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with roll paper overlap.
We fix the bars on top of the paper, a heater will already lie between them.
Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary

The tape from the kit must be glued carefully, because it will be very difficult to reuse it

On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath you can do without it. For example, if the bath is made of logs, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the bath wall insulation resembles a device roofing cake

Rails or beams are vertically fixed to the surface of the wall. The edges of the lower part must be marked with pieces of electrical tape. A narrow bar is being used, not a square bar, because the bar will not be distorted by temperature changes. Before attaching to the wall, panels or boards must be treated with specialized impregnations that are designed for bath rooms.
The slats will also need foil. They work with it in the same way as when insulating the ceiling. But without this material, the timber will definitely rot, and the insulation will turn out to be hacky. Using foil, you will not need to use vapor barrier films. This material is fastened with a stapler directly to the timber. Then everything is pressed with a clapboard. But it is important to leave a gap or gap between the lining and the thermal insulation. Usually two centimeters is enough.
Racks made of thermowood (lining) are mounted on fixed rails. The finishing part is stuffed not vertically, but horizontally. According to observations experienced builders heat loss is much lower.

Lining made of linden looks great and keeps heat well, and when laid horizontally, heat loss is even more reduced

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a steam room

Floor insulation in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the lags. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of the concrete floor.

First pour the initial layer.
Then wait until it is completely solidified.
Next, expanded clay is poured. A layer of 10 cm is enough.

Expanded clay filling is made between the layers of the concrete floor

Video: features of the concrete floor device in the bath

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are processed silicone sealants. External doors are usually insulated natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.

Source: legkovmeste.ru

Step-by-step instructions: how to insulate a bath from the inside

Warming is an important stage in the finishing of any private house, while in the bathhouse this operation becomes of key importance. A steam room is a space with special conditions, where extreme temperatures are combined with high humidity. No matter how well the bath is built, if careful thermal insulation was not made at the finishing stage, the sauna will not be able to function correctly, cold will penetrate into the interior, and heat will go outside. To maintain the necessary temperature indicators, it is necessary to warm it well. In this matter, you can rely on the professionalism and experience of specialists, or you can do the warming of the bath from the inside with your own hands. The article provides step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of a bath room.

What materials are suitable for internal thermal insulation

Today, there are a lot of high-quality heaters on the market, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. For thermal insulation of this room, it is necessary to use materials that meet the following requirements:

Non-toxic. In the bath, under the influence of extremely high temperatures, the harmful substances contained in the material are rapidly released, so toxic insulation can cause poisoning.
Non-hygroscopic. You should choose a material that does not absorb moisture.

The heater for the bath should be:

resistant to high temperatures and steam;
fireproof;
environmentally friendly;
durable.

There are several groups of heaters that can be used in the bath:

Organic. These are natural materials that can ignite from high temperatures, so they only insulate the rest room and dressing room.
Mineral. These materials are suitable for warming the steam room and any other parts of the bath.

In accordance with the above requirements, the best heat insulators for a bath are described in the table:

Material name	Main characteristics
Mineral wool	The structure of the insulation consists of randomly arranged fibers. The material is non-toxic, practically does not absorb moisture, has a small weight. Suitable for insulating walls, ceilings and wooden floors of the bath.
Extruded polystyrene foam	The structure is closed cells. It has high strength and resistance to compression. Does not contain harmful components. Can be used to insulate concrete floors.
Expanded clay	Represents the porous granules which are not passing moisture. Very light and durable, no toxic substances in the composition. Used for thermal insulation of the ceiling and floor.

Mineral wool foil plates are well suited for warming the steam room, as in the photo, which work on the principle of a thermos, keeping heat inside the room for a long time. To create an airtight coating, the mats are fastened together with foil tape.

If the insulation is carried out with a material that does not have a foil layer, it must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

When using mineral wool for thermal insulation of the floor, it is necessary to make multi-layer insulation. The first layer is best to put expanded clay, which is not attractive to rodents.

Insulation of the bath must be done not only inside, but also outside the house. About how to properly make external insulation, we described earlier in the article "Thermal insulation of the bath inside and out - technologies and materials." Below we will dwell on how to perform the insulation of the bath with our own hands from the inside. The process consists of several successive steps.

Floor insulation

Work on internal insulation is carried out in the following sequence:

Leading to the bath drain pipe, which is usually installed in the center of the room.
A roofing material is laid on a well-packed earth, which will prevent the ingress of moisture from the soil into the insulation cake. The edges of the material should go to the walls to a height of at least 15 cm.
Almost the entire space under the bath is covered with a thick layer of expanded clay or slag. For ventilation, 20-25 cm are left between the upper edge of the backfill and the floor beams.
On the protruding sections of the foundation, floor beams are installed, pre-treated with an antiseptic composition.
From the bottom of the beams, cranial bars are screwed, then a draft floor is laid on them.
The entire structure is covered with a vapor-tight film in such a way that both subfloor boards and wooden beams are covered.
Mineral wool slabs are laid on the film between the beams or granulated expanded clay is poured.
From above, the heat insulator is also covered with a film.
Logs are mounted across the beams, then wooden flooring is laid on them. A round hole is made in the place of the drain in the boards to drain the water.
Laths are nailed on top of the boards, which will serve as a crate for mounting a waterproof floor.
Insulation is laid between the slats of the frame, the foil layer should look up. Between themselves, the plates are connected using foil tape. To insulate the pipe, it is also wrapped in heat-insulating material.
A fine wooden floor is laid over the insulation.

Wall insulation

log bath

Bath wall insulation

The tree has a low thermal conductivity, and the walls of the logs themselves perfectly retain heat inside the log house, provided that the caulking of the interventional joints is of high quality. Therefore, it is not required to make a multi-layer wall cake; to eliminate heat loss, it is enough to lay one layer of insulation with a thickness of 50-80 mm.

Wall insulation is done as follows:

Basalt mineral wool slabs are laid directly on the wall and fixed with mushroom fasteners, the foil layer should be facing the room. Since the log wall is uneven, natural ventilation gaps are formed between the insulation and the wood, which will prevent condensation from accumulating.
A wooden crate is mounted on top of the mineral wool.
The wall is sheathed with clapboard 10 mm thick, which is attached to the laths of the crate.

Baths from a bar

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from a bar

A log cabin, as well as a log cabin, is preliminarily caulked, and then carried out additional insulation. The walls of the timber are even and it is much easier to fix the insulation on them.

Work sequence:

A frame of wooden slats is mounted on the wall, which are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
Mineral wool mats are laid between the lathing bars.
The entire structure is completely covered with rolled foil material, which is attached to the frame rails. The joints between the canvases are glued with foil tape.
A counter-lattice is made, the slats are nailed to the bars of the frame. This creates an air gap between the insulation material and the finish.
The lining is installed.

How to properly insulate a door

door insulation technology

Large heat losses occur through door slots, so you must definitely take care of the thermal insulation of wood or iron door leading to the bath.

As a heater, you can use felt, basalt wool, foil insulation. There are several ways to insulate a door, below we will give the most common:

Along the perimeter of the door, a frame of 15x20 mm rails is mounted, which should recede from the edge of the door leaf by 10 cm.
A sheet of hardboard is laid inside the frame and attached with a stapler.
Felt or other material is pulled on top of the frame and fixed with nails, which should be 5 cm larger than the frame itself.

Ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a bath without an attic is performed from the inside, if there is an attic, it can be insulated both inside and outside the room. Don't forget to insulate the chimney too. If it is made of a sandwich pipe, inside which an insulating layer is provided, such thermal insulation will be quite enough.

If the chimney is made from one pipe, it must be wrapped with basalt insulation, and a larger diameter pipe must be put on top.

Warming ceiling structure can be done in three ways.

false ceiling

The thermal insulation of such a ceiling is very similar to the insulation of walls. The beams of the attic floor act as a frame for the hemming flow.

From the side of the attic, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the beams, and then boards are laid.
Insulation boards are tightly laid between the beams from the inside of the bath room.
The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film or foil material, which is attached to the beams themselves.
Sheathe the ceiling with clapboard.

panel ceiling

Such a ceiling consists of special panels, on the inside of which there is already a layer of insulation and vapor barrier. Mineral wool 10 cm thick is usually used.

Ceiling boards are assembled at the bottom, and then, ready-made, rise up. However, the panels are quite heavy, and it is quite difficult to lift such a structure yourself. Therefore, they are usually lifted piece by piece and mounted at a height.

After installing and fixing the panels, gaskets of insulating material are laid between them and the main ceiling.

Decking ceiling

This ceiling is distinguished by the absence of floor beams. It consists of boards 50 mm thick, which are placed directly on the walls of the bath or on bars nailed along the perimeter of the room at a distance of 10-12 cm below the ceiling.

Thermal insulation in this way is suitable for small rooms no wider than 2.5 m. In this case, only thin insulation with a thickness of not more than 5 mm can be used.

The following insulation scheme is used:

The boards are covered with a vapor barrier film.
A heater is placed on top.
Then comes the waterproofing layer.
Everything is covered with plywood sheets or boards.

Using the instructions for the internal insulation of the bath, you can independently make the thermal insulation of not only new, but also old buildings. But before insulating the old building, it is necessary to carefully prepare the walls, close up cracks and cracks, treat the tree with an antiseptic, and only after that proceed with thermal insulation.

If you decide to remake a change house or trailer for a bath, then their insulation can also be carried out according to the above scheme.

The company "Master Srubov" has been professionally doing decoration and thermal insulation for many years. wooden houses in Moscow and the region. If you want your bathhouse to please you with warmth and comfort, serve you as a duty, in the steam room the optimal temperature regime we are ready to help you with this.

You can find our coordinates in the "Contacts" section.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

This article will consider heat-insulating materials for warming saunas and baths.

You will learn why it is necessary to insulate a sauna, what requirements must be met by quality insulation, and how to choose the right heat-insulating material.

1 Why do you need to insulate the sauna?

Let's think about what we want to get from a good, high-quality sauna or bath. Most owners, as a rule, answer that the main requirement is to maintain the required temperature for a long time and quickly warm up the room.

For example, the average temperature in a Russian bath is from 70 to 90 degrees, with high air humidity, in a Finnish sauna - about 100 degrees, with low humidity.

To maintain such a temperature for a long period, the design of the sauna and bath must have high thermal insulation properties, which, in most cases, can only be obtained with the help of their insulation.

As practice shows, the use of high-quality thermal insulation materials, and technologically correct insulation, makes it possible to obtain the following results:

Significantly reduce energy costs or solid fuel, for heating saunas and baths;
Significant increase in durability wooden baths, since the walls receive effective protection against moisture, under the influence of which in the long term the tree will rot and collapse;
Extending the service life of stoves - to warm up an insulated sauna or bath, much less thermal energy is required, since heat losses are minimized, which makes it possible to operate stoves in a gentle mode;
The time required to fully warm up the sauna decreases, and the period during which the sauna maintains the required temperature increases;
If refractory material is used for insulation - basalt or foil insulation, the fire safety of the room increases.

1.1 Key requirements for sauna insulation

In order to decide which insulation to use for saunas and baths is better, it is necessary to identify the basic requirements that the thermal insulation of the bath must meet. should be based on a number of requirements.

These requirements, apart from general rules, which all high-quality heaters must comply with, three:

The presence of a shielding layer (foil);
Resistance to moisture and evaporation;
Fire resistance.

Since baths and saunas are rooms in which there is a powerful source of heat - a stove, simple insulation is not sufficient for such premises. Much greater efficiency can be obtained by using insulation with foil, which has the properties of reflecting thermal energy. For bulk heaters can be used.

A conventional insulation with low thermal conductivity simply prevents heat transfer, but the heat is still much slower, but goes into environment or adjoining premises. This fact must be taken into account.

While the insulation with foil has two advantages at once - the base of basalt wool or polyethylene foam prevents heat transfer between the cold wall and warm air inside the bath, and the foil layer reflects inside the room coming from heating furnace thermal energy.

Moisture resistance is necessary so that the insulation does not begin to lose its thermal insulation characteristics and collapse under the constant influence of moist air. You need to lead with an orientation to this fact.

In the case of using vapor-tight insulation - foam and similar products made of polyethylene foam, there is no need for additional vapor barrier, however, if you decide to lay non-foil basalt insulation, then you must use special vapor barrier membrane films (as budget option you can use regular cellophane).

In the issue of fire resistance, not only the combustion class of the material is important, but also the temperature regime for its operation. For example, the boundary temperature when using Penoplex is 80 degrees, above which the material begins to deform.

As you understand, in a Finnish sauna, the temperature in which can reach 100 degrees, it is better not to use such a heater.

2 Types of heaters

Focusing on the above requirements, we can conclude that two types of heaters are optimally suited for warming a sauna or a bath:

Foil mineral (basalt wool);
Foil foam.

The use of these materials makes it possible to achieve the “thermos effect”, when the walls of the sauna do not allow steam to pass through, as a result of which the air temperature in the steam room does not decrease over a long period.

As an additional vapor barrier, if you decide to use a non-foil insulation, it is recommended to use cellophane (density from 140 microns), glassine, or roofing felt. Ruberoid, especially in a steam room, is better not to lay down, since at high temperatures a very unpleasant smell begins to emanate from it.

2.1 Mineral wool

In total, there are three types of mineral wool with which you can: fiberglass wool - made from cullet, slag wool - made from waste from the metallurgical industry, and basalt wool - made from basalt rock.

The best option for warming the sauna is basalt wool, although it costs a little more than other types of mineral wool, it has much better technical characteristics. A more expensive, but high-quality analogue is.

The main manufacturer of basalt wool in the domestic market is the company "Ursa", in the product line of which there is a special basalt wool for thermal insulation of saunas and baths - Ursa "Glasswool M-11F". With it, you can carry out.

Ursa "Glasswool" is a rolled basalt insulation with one-sided foiling. The thermal energy shielding coefficient of this material is about 97%, while for such insulation there is no need to lay additional vapor barrier.

Consider the main technical characteristics of Urs "Glasswool":

Density - 11 kg / cubic meter;
Combustibility class - NG (completely non-combustible material);
The maximum temperature regime is up to 800 degrees;
Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.04 W / mk;
Roll dimensions: width - 120, length - 1800, thickness - 5 centimeters;
The area of one package is 21.6 m².

Also, Ursa Geo M-11F fiberglass wool with one-sided foiling is not bad for warming the sauna. The density of this mineral wool is 14.1 kg / m³, thermal conductivity - 0.042 W / mk.

The flammability class of Ursa "Geo" is similar to "Glasswool" - NG, however, the temperature regime of operation is limited to +270. The vapor permeability of the insulation is 0.7 mg / mchPa. As an alternative to the presented material can be considered.

2.2 Foil foam

While foam thermal insulation is rarely used as the main insulation for residential buildings, for baths and saunas - where the shielding abilities of the material come to the fore, since the main heat losses are associated with thermal radiation, foil foam is one of the best options thermal insulation.

Among all Penotherm's foil insulation, the PenoPremium NPP LF material is intended, a feature of which is an extended temperature regime of operation. These are very popular.

While most foil insulation, based on polyethylene foam, deforms at a temperature of about 100 degrees, Penoterm NPP LF can withstand temperatures of + 150C without any problems.

Let's get acquainted with the main technical characteristics of this material:

Thermal reflection index: 90%;
Water absorption at full immersion for 25 hours - 1% of the volume;
Thermal conductivity coefficient: 0.034 W / mk;
Material density: from 100 to 390 g/m²;
Flammability class: G2 (low combustible materials);
Temperature conditions: from -40 to +150 degrees;
Vapor permeability coefficient: 0.001 mg/MhPa (vapor barrier material).

The indisputable advantage of Penotherm is the ease of installation of insulation from this material. To install the insulation, it is not necessary to create a supporting frame, it is simply attached to the wall or ceiling of the bath using a construction stapler, or nails, with foil inside the room.

The places where the staples or nails are located, and the joints of the Penotherm sheets to each other, are glued with aluminum tape, after which a frame for cladding is installed on top of the insulation, and the walls are sheathed with decorative material.

2.3 Bath and sauna insulation technology (video)

The Russian banya does not lose its popularity, and at the same time it must be built in compliance with the relevant norms and rules. Therefore, the question of how to insulate a bath remains very relevant.

Some features of bath insulation

Competent thermal insulation baths will help to significantly reduce fuel costs, improve the quality of the procedure, keep the building itself in good condition for a long time, especially if the bath is used all year round.

Since ancient times, Russian baths have been insulated using natural materials - moss, tow, bast, etc. At present, it is better to use artificial heaters. They are durable, easy to install, environmentally friendly.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the features of the use of bath rooms - high level moisture, high temperatures, often live fire. All these moments impose certain requirements on heaters for a bath, especially if they are used for internal insulation.

Before purchasing a material, it is necessary to carefully consider a number of important factors, taking into account the cost, biological inertness, and technical characteristics of the proposed heat insulators. 1 more important point- regional climate. The amount of materials required is determined by the size of the bath building and the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Whether it is necessary and whether it is possible to insulate the bath from the outside depends on the material from which it is built, the regional climate and the time of use - seasonal or year-round.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to carry out the thermal insulation of the bath yourself, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

construction roulette;
screwdriver;
building level and plumb;
axe;

chisel;
saw or hacksaw;
a hammer;
jigsaw;
wire cutters or pliers;
sharp technical knife;
electric drill or hammer drill.

In addition to the actual insulation, for work you will need:

vapor barrier film;
wooden beam;
metal rail;
screws and nails;
adhesive tape.

How to choose a heater

In the bath usually there are: a dressing room, rooms for washing, a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room. These rooms are installed different level humidity and temperature during washing. Therefore, how you can insulate the bath inside is determined for each room separately.

According to mechanical characteristics, heaters are divided into loose, block and tile, mother and fibrous materials.

Chemical composition allows you to separate heat insulators into organic, inorganic, technical and plastic materials.

Plastic-based heat insulators are best used for warming rooms with low level moisture and temperatures. They are not used in the steam room because of the easy flammability and deformation when heated. Cheap and safe organic heat insulators can be used in the steam room only after fire treatment.

The most practical are inorganic heat insulators. These materials are fire-resistant, non-hygroscopic. They do not rot and can serve for a long time without losing their basic technical properties.

More about vapor barriers

The most successful vapor barrier option for all bath rooms is aluminum foil. It is fire resistant, durable, non-hygroscopic. The main advantage of aluminum foil is the ability to reflect heat. Using such a vapor barrier in the bath, you can significantly reduce the consumption of fuel material.

Glassine, as well as roofing material, cannot be used in the steam room, since these materials, when heated, emit volatile toxic substances. In some embodiments, glassine can be used as a heater. Ruberoid for this purpose is better not to use at all.

The choice of insulation and the method of its installation depend on the material from which the bath is built. If the bath is built from a bar, a cellular crate of bars is first mounted on the load-bearing walls. The cross section of the beam should be 0.2-0.3 cm more than the thickness of the heat insulator. This will ensure the safety of the insulation and its useful properties.

Between the bars of the crate, the selected heat insulator is laid. It is covered with vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier is laid with a shift. A thin metal rail is mounted over the joints. A gap of no more than 3 cm must be left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

The corners of the room, pipes, window and door openings are sealed with a special vapor barrier tape. This will protect problem areas from moisture penetration.

For finishing in this case, it is easier to use a lining board. It is stuffed over a vertical crate.

Bath structures of a panel or frame type are insulated only with heat insulators that have a low specific gravity. Before use, they are treated with lime milk to protect against corrosion and increase fire resistance. After processing, the material must be thoroughly dried.

We warm the steam room

The steam room in the bath requires special attention. After all, it is here during operation that the highest level of moisture and elevated temperature are observed. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and finishing of this room must be made with special materials.

The maximum heating during operation is exposed to the ceiling of the steam room (up to 150 ° C). Therefore, the question of how to insulate the bath ceiling is solved by using materials with high heat resistance.

With absence attic space or attic insulation is mounted in the following order:

wooden lattice from a bar on the ceiling boards;
trim elements;
thermal insulation;
vapor barrier.

If there is an upper room - an attic, an attic - the insulation scheme looks a little different. A layer of clay is applied to the ceiling boards, at least 2 cm thick. This will ensure moisture retention. All small holes, joints between boards, etc. are filled with bulk material. Usually expanded clay or chips are used for this. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.

Around chimney a box-shaped base of rafter supports is mounted on the ceiling. This will provide a gap between the pipe and the heat insulator of 20 cm, required by fire safety. A non-combustible heat insulator such as glass wool or mineral wool is placed inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.

The walls and ceiling of the bath building must be insulated according to the following principles:

Thermal insulators must be in close contact with the wall surface to reduce the risk of internal moisture and cold air ingress.
A ventilation gap is needed on top of the insulation to dry it.
All floors and other wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent premature destruction of the material.
Materials with a low level of heat and moisture resistance cannot be used in the steam room.
Insulation should be chosen from among those that do not deform under the influence of moisture and high temperatures and do not emit hazardous chemicals.

Necessary properties of heaters for a bath:

heat resistance;
moisture resistance;
environmental friendliness;
Fire safety.

Natural heaters require special processing before use. Otherwise, mold, fungus and harmful insects may soon appear. In this case, it is more expedient to use artificial heaters.

Foam application

Many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam. After all, it is a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use material. However, it should be said that the bath can be insulated with foam from the outside or along the foundation.

To the question of whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam plastic from the inside, most experts will answer in the negative. This is due to the fact that the foam is easily destroyed under the influence of high temperatures. The low moisture resistance of this material causes it to rot under the influence of high humidity. Therefore, for the interior of the bath, foam plastic can only be used in rooms where moisture almost does not get.

Use of mineral wool

The question of whether it is possible to insulate a bath with mineral wool is, as a rule, resolved positively.

After all, mineral wool is an almost universal modern insulation that has many positive technical characteristics. Among them should be mentioned:

reliability;
moisture resistance;
heat resistance;
fire safety;
resistance to decay;
simple installation.

Therefore, mineral wool can be used as a bath insulation both outside and in the interior, including the steam room.

Foam insulation

Is it possible to insulate the bath from the inside with foam plastic? This is quite acceptable, given some of the technical characteristics of the material. In the presence of many useful properties, foam plastic is a hygroscopic material, with low heat resistance.

Therefore, in the steam room, it is better to use it only on the walls and be sure to cover it with foil. In other branches of the bath, it is quite suitable.

Floor insulation in the bath

Usually made from wooden board or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washing room and in the steam room. The technology of floor insulation depends on the base material.

Expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag is most often used to insulate a concrete floor. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is understood to be 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleaned of construction debris and dust. Next, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber concrete. A waterproofing agent is laid on the adhesive composition - high-strength polyethylene or roofing material.

After the waterproofing has set, the laying of the insulation begins. An adhesive composition is again applied on top of it, on which a waterproofing agent is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. Concrete must be leveled and properly dried. Finishing such a floor is usually done using ceramic tiles. Under it, you can place a system of underfloor heating.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial bar is planted on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped with roofing material or heavy-duty polyethylene. A draft is laid on top of the waterproofing flooring. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in the bath with isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and arranged in a room with a low level of moisture.

A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the board for the finishing floor is laid. A plinth is attached around the perimeter of the room. The final paintwork is not used in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized mats. They will make the room cozy and will not cause much trouble when cleaning. The floor in the bath is insulated mainly for greater user comfort. Floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Roof insulation

How can you insulate the roof of the bath - this problem is solved depending on the use of the room. If the bath building is intended only for hygienic procedures and relaxation, it will be enough to insulate the roof by laying roofing material on the crate before mounting the roofing pie. In the case when brooms are dried inside the bath, linen and other equipment are stored, the roof must be thoroughly insulated.