• What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

    Metal roofing is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the structure and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

    A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how a roof made of metal tiles is built with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

    Wavy metal sheets the currently popular coatings are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled billets are first immersed in containers with hot zinc, as a result of which an anti-corrosive film is formed on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymeric shell that performs an aesthetic and protective function.

    However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing cake is designed with violations and errors. Condensation will accumulate in the space under the coating, which will slowly but surely reach the metal. The insulation will be moistened and will lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements will get wet, as a result of which they will rot.

    It is also not worth relying entirely on light weight and an impressive area of ​​sheets of material: both the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate is needed such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, to self-assembly metal tiles should be properly prepared, i.e. get acquainted with the nuances of the structure truss structure, lathing and roofing cake.


    Rafter system and lathing

    Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The rafter system for the cold type can be erected from steel or aluminum elements. But the priority is still wood, because it is easier to attach the covering sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful truss trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, therefore, warm roofs are arranged on wooden rafters with a crate.

    Note that the installation of a metal roofing is possible on pitched roofs with a minimum slope of 14º. The steepness of roofs from 15º to 20º is considered optimal.

    In the building rafter system there are rules for a warm roof with metal tiles, these are:

    • The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing rafter system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
    • The rafter system is arranged from a board with a thickness of 50mm. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
    • Stacked between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the rafter structure, then an additional counter batten of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is packed on the rafters along their direction. It will create a 3-5cm gap.

    In order to ensure ventilation of the wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs on the side. Hole formation is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, it is advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

    Before the construction of the lathing, which works as a basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the rafter system should be checked. The lengths of the diagonals of the rectangular slopes should be measured and verified. On mansard roofs the lengths of the diagonals of each part of the ramp separately. You need to check the horizontality of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely identification of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

    Having convinced of the geometric impeccability of the rafter trusses, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, there are clear rules:

    • First lath - the lowest lath on the overhang should be higher than the next row laths. For its construction, you need to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50 × 50, and for all subsequent ones 30 × 50.
    • The starting batten of the batten must be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
    • The step between the first and second lath is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent slats is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the pitch is determined by the distance between the shear waves of the metal tile.
    • In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
    • In the gutters around roof windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a solid crate from the board is arranged.
    • In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the eaves strip. The boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

    Among other things, before the lathing device, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and a fire-fighting compound.


    The lathing plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important work. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

    The ventilation ducts must remain free so that the air can flow under the metal sheets without interference and exit in the same way. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing cake.

    Structural roof boards

    Cornice boards are used to reinforce the slope and make it cruel if the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem the overhangs with vinyl siding. In situations where the filing is done trivially with a board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

    The cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the eaves board to fix them. The short-stemmed hooks are screwed onto the front board only. They are used when the installation of the drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The pitch of all types of hooks is equal to the pitch of the rafter legs.

    A frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for attaching various roofing parts and accessories, including overhangs. The end plate serves as the basis for the end plate, the latter closes the waterproofing laid on top of the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank, nailed to the end board, prevents the roof from rattling.


    Time to hem the overhangs

    Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem the overhangs with specially manufactured valves for this purpose, for example KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl soffits are recommended. Dobors are sold with a full attachment of fittings and instructions. It can be economically hemmed with a board that is attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

    The specifics of the roofing cake

    The composition and structure of a roofing cake for metal tiles depends on whether the structure is insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if attic is supposed to be hemmed.

    Insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

    • Vapor barrier. Located on the side of the future intake of household vapors, i.e. from the inside of the rafter system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. The strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. A gap should be created between the inner lining of the attic and the vapor barrier by installing battens.
    • Thermal insulation. Mineral wool slabs are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is placed between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the slabs are cut 1.5-2 cm wide than the distance between the rafters.
    • Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the rafter system in front of the sheathing device, try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

    The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas of joining of the slopes, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

    An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of the roofing cake when installing a metal roof. Waterproofing must allow steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation to pass through.

    The method of constructing the water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

    • The classic version of waterproofing is a reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the rafter system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5cm.
    • The super diffusion membrane can work perfectly with one 3-5cm wide ventilation gap. It is created between the membrane and metal tiles. Using polymer material there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and insulation. After all, the membrane is capable of letting excess moisture outward, preventing it from getting inside.
    • Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated by washing with air, which should provide a path. Therefore, this option also needs double-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used for arranging cold roofs.

    All types insulating materials, except for polymer waterproofing, are laid with sagging. It is so necessary that the film does not break when the film is pulled. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

    Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is installed on the walls of the communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened roof sections.


    Installation of parts before laying the coating

    Before laying metal tiles, it is mandatory to install:

    • Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape and the legs of the drain hooks attached to the ends. The strips are fastened to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws with a step of 30 cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
    • Eaves drip, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to drain moisture from waterproofing.
    • Lower valley, reinforcing the protection of the concave roof corners. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank lathing. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat gutters, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional waterproofing strip. The lower valley is screwed on with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous seal is laid on top of the lower valley.
    • Protective bypass around chimneys that cross the roof. It is carried out with the help of metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to the groove formed in the pipe walls and processed with a sealant. It is forbidden to groove into the seam! The same rules apply when arranging abutments to the walls.
    • A lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

    The lightning protection system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum barØ 12mm, length from 20cm to 1.5m. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6mm welded to the lightning rod. The down conductor is laid along the crate and along the walls, and brought to ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of ​​1 m × 1 m, for example.



    Rules for laying sheets of metal tiles

    Before laying the profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting the material to the roof. In order not to lift the cover one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage. Yet home master you will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving on the roof. The contractor is only allowed to step into the deflections of the profiled waves.

    When laying metal tiles, you can move either to the left or to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the sheet laid on top overlaps the capillary groove. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act so that the element laid on top is immediately placed under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This will lock it in place and prevent slipping.


    Typical installation sequence

    Indisputable rules for installing metal tiles:

    • The starter sheets are attached to the first lath through a wave on top of the transverse step of the covering. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the cornice.
    • All subsequent fastenings of the sheets are carried out in the decays of the waves from the bottom of the transverse step.
    • Along the end board, the profiled covering is fixed in all waves.

    Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is perfect, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, aligned and temporarily fixed in the same way. The aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

    Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all points. Only the outermost sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.


    The process of laying metal-tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material must also be fastened to each other. Sheets are built up vertically.

    Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

    Installation of sheets on ramps of a triangular shape:

    • We find the center of the overhang and draw a central axis through it.
    • We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
    • In fact, we combine the axes of the slope and the sheet, we check the horizontality and verticality.
    • Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the upper edge.
    • We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the cover in the usual way.

    After fixing the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

    Convenience of trimming with marking of material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes, will provide a homemade "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple tool will help you precisely define the segments to be trimmed.

    Final assembly work

    After laying the wavy flooring with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

    • Install passages around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake are sealed with adhesive tape at the intersection points. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
    • Screw the end plate to the end plate with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
    • Screw on the top plate of the valley, first placing a self-expanding seal on the cover.
    • Build a skate. For this, the area of ​​the ridge is pasted over from the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. The ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through the convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

    A drainage system, snow holders, service ladders and fences, if planned, are mounted on the laid surface.



    A detailed video instruction will be an excellent fixation of information about the device on the roof of a solid metal roof with your own master's hands:

    There are a lot of nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not have to change the roof again for the next option.

    Metal tiles have long become one of the most demanded roofing materials. But there is a popular myth that only trained professionals can lay it. In fact, the situation is different - with due diligence, any neat person will cope with this work.

    Where to begin?

    Installation of metal tiles begins with a thorough preparation for work. The first step is to calculate the exact need for material and, of course, start from the size of the roof. They need to be measured as carefully as possible. Cutting the material into the desired fragments is done angular grinder but without the abrasive wheel - it damages the shingles too easily. The old roofing cake is supposed to be removed without residue, because the rafters are not designed for two coatings at once; this is where the preparation for laying as a whole ends, except for tools and materials.

    Tools and everything you need

    To lay boards of metal tiles with your own hands, you need to cut them to exact dimensions using metal scissors. Taking measurements and comparing with them requires the use of a tape measure. To climb to the roof, it is imperative to use a sturdy ladder or stepladder. Fastening is done with an electric drill and screwdriver. From hand tools, you need a hammer, a black stationery marker, and a long wooden rail. When working, be sure to use gloves and glasses made of durable plastic.

    You also need to stock up on such components as:

    • guide boards;
    • roof strips;
    • waterproofing material;
    • the tile itself;
    • aero rollers;
    • end and ridge strips;
    • decorative overlays;
    • self-tapping screws with washers;
    • board 25x100 mm in the required quantity.

    Roof types and elements

    The calculation of the necessary elements for gable roof... Let's say its dimensions are 8x5 m (along the slopes). The calculation of the required number of sheets is determined by dividing the length of a single slope by the width of the sheet. This refers to the working width along with overlaps, and not the one that is obtained when measuring with a tape measure. It is recommended to round the resulting non-integer value always upwards and take into account that one of the sheets can be divided equally and applied on two slopes at once.

    The simpler the type of roof (especially the configuration of the slopes), the less shingles will go to waste. By increasing the length of the sheets, you can reduce the amount of overlaps. But this translates into more complex work and heavier transportation, for which you will have to pay a lot. Based on the experience of most people, if the length exceeds 6 linear meters, it is advisable to divide the sheet into parts. An overlap of at least 0.15 m if the slope is steeper than 25 degrees, and at least 0.2 m if the roof is flatter.

    Laying tiles on an insulated roof involves installation:

    • waterproofing film;
    • one or more ventilation gaps;
    • vapor barrier.

    For fastening the films, special staples are used; the moisture barrier itself can be vapor permeable or impermeable. Passage of water vapor is required if there is a cold attic, but for a heated residential attic this is no longer so significant. But ventilation under the roof layer must be provided without fail. If it is not installed, condensation will inevitably appear below, and the safety of the house structures cannot be guaranteed. It is advisable to use, as under any layer of metal on the roof, cn

    Such membranes are one-sided, and the side that is smooth to the touch should not be applied to the insulation. It is advisable to carry out work on the arrangement of ventilation and antenna output in close connection with each other. Typically the top of the antenna outputs are cut off, leaving approximately 80% of the rack size. The outlet of the ventilation pipe is brought out into the passage elements, which must be held by self-tapping screws. To connect the outside of the hood to the air duct in the house, it comes in handy corrugated pipe; adhesive tape is used to fix this pipe in position and seal the connection.

    All these measures will improve the quality of the insulation, but it is necessary to understand and with its suitable type.

    Mineral wool is considered one of the best options because it:

    • does not burn;
    • well dampens steps and blows of rain drops on the roof;
    • mechanically strong;
    • stably retains valuable qualities for decades;
    • self-assembled without unnecessary problems.

    From the side of warm rooms, wadded insulation should be thoroughly protected vapor barrier because their permeability to water vapor is high.

    Having dealt with the insulation, you need to find out the details of the device of the valley. All flanges are laid from below with a layer of insulation, and screws will be needed to hold the cut sheets. No less significant than the valley, the passage through the metal roof steel pipes and chimneys. If the chimney goes through an insulated roof, it will be necessary to lay a strictly defined number of layers of insulation, as well as roof insulation, and create a ceiling batten.

    Skilled professionals solve this problem by constructing a special box that surrounds the pipe outlet upward. The box itself must be covered from direct contact with chimney... To isolate them from each other, they are used mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass. The geometric shape of a given node is determined by the type of materials used. Most pipes are rectangular, round, or square. Of metal and cement, they are mainly made in the form of a circle.

    It is forbidden to bring the pipe out through the valley, because then it will not be possible to reliably ensure the tightness of their connection.

    Any chimney must be supplied with protective umbrellas.

    When forming the outer apron, waterproofing materials are used that are resistant to high temperatures. Ceiling openings around the steel chimney will need to be closed with a heat-insulating barrier or box, this requirement is relevant not only for wooden roofs... Instead of fluffing, vermiculite or expanded clay is sometimes used to protect the main body of material from overheating. But the traditional way using basalt wool is more practical and safer.

    When removing any chimneys through insulated roofs, auxiliary cross beams... Leaving the pipe in the already created roof, the joints are treated with a sealant or covered with adhesive tape. To collect and drain condensate, a drainage trough is useful. It is not necessary to buy it, you can do such a thing with your own hands. Round chimneys are fastened with steel brackets, while there are always gaps for thermal expansion of the structure.

    Regardless of whether the roof is equipped with a pipe or not, it is important to correctly calculate its slope. Not only the consumption of metal tiles depends on this, but also the practicality of using the roof, its properties. The slope changes - and immediately the susceptibility of the house to precipitation and wind becomes different, and the service life of the structure also changes. You can calculate the required slope in size if you use a formula of the form X = H / (1 / 2L). The height here is the interval between the overlap and the ridge, that is, the growth of the rafters, and the length means the width of the house.

    To recalculate the roof slope in percent, it remains only to multiply the result by 100. Elementary trigonometry (arctangent) will help to convert the calculated figure into degrees. Using this scheme, you can find out the necessary parameters for roofs with one slope, but then you need to take into account the entire length of the span. When the slopes are unequal to each other, the distance is measured from the projection of the ridge onto the overlap, and the angles are determined for each plane separately.

    If the device is very complex, it has a lot of drops and relief details, a correction is introduced with respect to horizontal projections.

    The smallest (11 degrees) slope can only be used in an ideal situation, when the effects of snow and rain are deliberately excluded. The level of wind load transferred to the lower parts of the house will be small, but the snow and ice will not go down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most manufacturers of metal tiles, normal operation of the roof in winter conditions is guaranteed only with a slope of at least 14 degrees.

    It is not recommended to overestimate the parameters calculated or specified in the accompanying materials, because this will lead to an increase in material costs, an increase in windage the roof being created and difficulties with water disposal.

    But at the maximum flat roof there are also disadvantages.

    After all, the small slope does not allow to avoid water seepage through the joints between the sheets and the attachment points, so additional measures will need to be taken.

    In winter, there will be more problems with cleaning the roof from snow.- if it is not done or not done enough, it can fail. At small angles of inclination, the crate becomes heavier, it will be more difficult to attach parts to it. And one more drawback - it will not work to make an attic or attic of a large area.

    Looking at the gabled roofs reveals other complications. So, at an angle of 45 degrees, the snow mass will slide down by itself. But a heavy metal tile can repeat the same maneuver and you will have to strengthen the fastening, attach each element to the crate as carefully as possible. Extremes converge - both with insufficient and excessive steepness, you will need to put more sheets. Therefore, angles of 11 and 70 degrees are more theoretically possible than realizable in practice.

    For a pitched roof, the most practical value is a corridor from 20 to 30 degrees, and for a gable roof, the second figure can reach 45 degrees.

    When the outer contour and shape are selected, it is time to deal with the rafter knots. As a mauerlat, a square-shaped coniferous timber is usually taken, its side is 10 or 15 cm.The section of the bed should be exactly the same, this part is placed at right angles to the bearing walls. A triangular roof structure is assembled from the rafter legs, which takes the brunt of the weather, so special attention should be paid to its creation. Additionally, racks are prepared, directed vertically of the structure, due to which the compression from the ridge is evenly distributed along the load-bearing walls.

    The length of the ribs at the racks is determined not according to standard norms, but by performing special calculations.

    In addition to them, puffs are equipped - these are the horizontal parts of the rafter triangles that prevent the legs from moving arbitrarily under various loads. But puffs are used only when creating hanging rafters, and if they have a solid support, there is no need for this element at all. Bending loads from the ridge nodes are redistributed by struts. As for the crate, it is made of wooden planks, beams placed at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the legs of the rafters, and increases the overall rigidity of the roof.

    In addition to these elements, you will need to do:

    • skate (correct joint between the slopes);
    • overhang - a part that goes beyond the contour of the bearing walls by 40 cm and prevents moisture from penetrating to their surface;
    • filly - replace the overhang if the ends of the rafters do not allow it to be made.

    As for the choice of the number of stingrays, it should be done not only for aesthetic reasons.

    So, pitched roofs are used only where there will be no attics - on small houses, above porches and outbuildings, above utility structures.

    Hip houses differ from ordinary gable ones in that the pediments are as if cut off at an angle to the full height. The half-hip roof is similar to the hip roof, it is equipped with the same four slopes in the form of a triangle, but the pediments are only partially cut. If the main part of the building is round, the roof is made in the form of a dome, but all these options, as well as conical, two-gable, and so on, are much less common with gable and gable roofs.

    Calculations

    When looking at a roof made of metal tiles, it is found that it is formed by rows and waves (that is, lines directed perpendicular to the plane of the slope). The break from row to row among roofers is called the wave step. When on a tile sheet the pitch is 350 mm and six waves, it is called a module. Typical offers on the Russian market include from 1 to 10 modules. You can choose individual sizes, but then total cost will be much higher.

    It is important to remember that by technical reasons the sheet cannot be shorter than 45 and longer than 700 cm, and all waves and joints necessarily form a monolithic ensemble along the slope.

    Having counted the required number of modules, it is easy to determine how much material will be consumed on the roof of one roof. In addition to the main material, you will also need steel strips (each 200 cm in length) and steel sheets 200x125 cm, painted in the same way as the tiles. The minimum tilt angle is 11 degrees, and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the slats supplied are designed for roofs with a slope of 30 degrees. If this value is different, they are adjusted according to the individual requirements determined in the scheme.

    Installation methods

    Select suitable type the roof and carefully calculate its parameters - only half of the solution. It is important to figure out how best to lay the metal tiles. This is a reliable material, but if a mistake is made during installation, after a few months all the work will need to be redone again. There are two time-tested mounting options: one row and several rows at a time. Regardless of the path chosen, 2,3 or 4 sheets are assembled into a block, attaching to each other on short self-tapping screws.

    Then they are attached to the crate, trying to get as high as possible. Then it will be possible to twist the block around the central screws, aligning the stacking of sheets for their optimal exposure. If you choose to mount one row at a time, the very first sheet becomes the guide for the entire strip. It is aligned along the eaves and ends of the slopes, and for greater convenience, it is attached to a self-tapping screw near the ridge. The second sheet is required to overlap the first on the left.

    Then these were connected to each other with a screw: it is injected on top of the wave under all the transverse folds. This method allows you to lay out blocks of a pair or two pairs of sheets. For your information: the sheet that ends each strip is not attached to the base until the next package of metal tiles is flattened. Installation in several rows is significantly different - they work from right to left, but still the first sheet is leveled, focusing on the cornices and ends. The second piece of metal tile should overlap the first, and they are attached to a common self-tapping screw near the ridge in the middle of the sheet.

    The joint between the parts of the cover is clamped with screws, which are inserted into the top of the wave. The third sheet of the row is placed to the left of the first. To cover the roof more convenient and easier, it is worth starting from the side where there are no bevels and cuts, other roof details that would require cutting the sheet. The material is laid, moving to the oblique skates or to the valley dividing the slopes. The fourth sheet is superimposed on the third and they are tied with short self-tapping screws, but they are not screwed to the crate (after all, you will still need to adjust the geometry of the laid out block).

    Detailed Operation Guide

    Having briefly familiarized yourself with the device of metal roofing and with its installation, it is time to find out how all the work should be done in stages. The construction of the roofing cake differs depending on whether the roof is insulated or cold.

    Rough finish

    Apart from the facing layer itself, they are sequentially placed above the warm attic (from top to bottom):

    • crate;
    • counter-lattice;
    • water-retaining membrane;
    • a layer of fire-resistant insulation;
    • steam barrier;
    • substrate.

    For cold attics, the device is simpler - there is no need for insulation and limiting the movement of steam.

    The lathing is made of a 5x5 cm bar, an alternative to it are 3.2x10 cm boards. In both designs, they are attached to a counter-lattice beam held by rafters. Thanks to the counter-lattice, not only is the mechanical cohesion of the parts of the cake ensured, but also a ventilated space is formed inside it. Therefore, the risk of encountering the accumulation of condensate decreases.

    It is impractical to make a monolithic wooden flooring under the metal tile, because the parts of the lathing are mounted at intervals of 35-40 cm. Exact value is determined by the step of the wave. Where the grooves and cornices are located, a plank flooring with a width of 14-15 cm is fastened. Previously, any piece of wood is supposed to be impregnated with antiseptics and fire protection means. Next comes the turn of the waterproofing membrane or films, which must pass steam, not be destroyed by ultraviolet radiation and serve for a long time.

    Waterproofing is installed exclusively in dry weather. If it is raining, it is better to postpone this matter until a more convenient moment.

    Rolls are rolled over each part of the roof, overlapped, moving across the rafters. Laying begins at the eaves and ends on the ridge. The bottom sheets of waterproofing are brought to the frontal boards of the cornices. The exact overlap of the film is determined by the slope angle, but its minimum value is at least 70 mm. To make the joints more airtight, adhesive tape and dispersion materials are used.

    A common mistake is to use flammable insulation, hoping for special fire retardant impregnations.

    It is assumed to use only those materials that do not themselves ignite without additional processing. The thickness of the insulation is chosen by carrying out a special heat engineering calculation according to the conditions of certain places, but even in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation it ranges from 15 cm. It is recommended to give preference to plate heaters from leading manufacturers, they are the most reliable and safe.

    Plates are laid inside the rafters in a spacer, they are fixed without additional fasteners, because such structures are resilient. The choice of vapor barrier is also responsible, and the main focus is on density and level of permeability to water vapor. Internal cladding made of boards or gypsum plasterboard, this work begins after the installation of other layers is completed.

    The load from the roof itself, accumulating snow and moving people is at least 200 kg per 1 sq. m. This circumstance must be taken into account when designing and constructing rafters.

    Both cold and warm roofs made of metal tiles are equipped with soundproofing material - they are placed on the crate either in a continuous layer, or in places where the front cover will be attached.

    If the roof slope is between 14 and 20 degrees, the slats can be installed relatively rarely. And when a thin steel profiled sheet is placed on top, an unbreakable sheathing of edged boards is prepared. Their minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation step is reduced to 1 cm. It is required to nail the slats for the counter-lattice to the rafter legs using galvanized nails. They are driven in every 30 cm. When preparing waterproofing, it is necessary to use membranes that effectively suppress the formation of condensation, are fire safe and resistant to ultraviolet rays.

    Construction staplers are used to attach water-resistant membranes to the legs of the rafters. Layers of lathing and counter-lathing are placed above the waterproofing. A gap should be left from the fibrous thermal insulation materials to the waterproofing layer, filled only with air. To form it, nails are driven into the edge of the rafters 1 cm from the waterproofing and the mesh is stretched, which is best done from a cord. The concrete screed can help the walls withstand the weight of the roof and the additional load (wind, snow, ice). When the upper floor is large, it is made along all load-bearing walls, not limited only to the outer planes.

    Additional reinforcement of the structures is achieved by means of concrete columns removed from the foundation, as well as by means of supports for the beams that hold the rafters.

    The planes of the slopes are brought out perfectly evenly, and if defects are found in them, they should be cut off with a plane. Heavily damaged elements are supposed to be replaced. When working with rafters, it is required after each manipulation (especially when the diagonal of the slope is displayed) to check their geometry with a building level. Noticing the skew, it is removed with the help of additional elements.

    It so happens that the slope (between the ridge beam and the cornice) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the sheets are divided into fragments and they are joined with an overlap. The previous covering from the rafters is completely removed, and after finishing dismantling, the rafters themselves and the crate are checked very carefully so that everything is whole.

    When preparing for any roofing work and in the process of laying out metal tiles, it is impossible to revet the facade, close the pediment and perform other work.

    Such "time saving" is irrational and only results in additional losses.

    The gap between the battens of the sheathing should be done in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturers, but not less than 0.6 and not more than 0.9 m.Before work, carefully evaluate the coincidence between the boards or timber, because blocks that differ in size and configuration can lead to damage to the roofing ... When stuffing the cornice, you should put the extreme strip of boards so that it does not protrude beyond it. Parts thinner than 150 mm must not be used to ensure the strength of the rafters and to compensate for uneven surfaces. The membrane film placed on top of the crate is unacceptable to be attached with nails or self-tapping screws, only scotch tape is used.

    Having finished with the eaves, they are engaged in the drain. It is best to buy a custom system from a shingle supplier to avoid compatibility issues. The first step in installation is to secure the brackets that hold the gutters. They are immediately engaged in the installation of ventilation grilles on the cornices. Once this is done, preparatory stage work can be safely considered completed.

    Laying the final material

    The technology of fastening metal tiles is much simpler than that of any preparatory work. But it also has its own important subtleties, nuances. They work from the bottom corners of each ramp. If in the process of laying it becomes necessary to adjust the sheets, they are simply cut to the desired size.

    The joint between the sheets should be opposite to the line along which the water will flow. If you do otherwise, rain flows will pour in.

    The first row of the coating is laid, carefully following the protrusions - it should be displayed 4 cm further than the cornice. It is not necessary to accurately measure this distance; an error of a few millimeters will not worsen anything. Subsequent sheets are easier and faster to place, but you will have to concentrate again when it comes to the fragments to be placed on the ridge. It must be remembered that the installation of metal tiles, and preparatory work are carried out at a height, and this makes special demands on the organization of work.

    It is imperative to use special belts and safety cables. Before going up to the roof, put on footwear with embossed rubber soles.

    • at dusk and at night (even with good electric lighting);
    • during rain and until the surface is dry;
    • in the fog;
    • when the wind is stronger than 15 m / s (even if these are isolated gusts).

    You need to lift up exactly as much material and tools as you need to work in the next 1-2 hours.

    It is better to spend more time on the ups and downs than to face problems due to the clutter of the space. Of course, you should never work on an icy roof. Garbage, defective and spoiled parts of the material, dismantled structures, packaging and everything else go down from the roof only by stairs. It is unacceptable to dump them down.

    The working tool should be placed where it will not fall. It is very important to ensure that the tools themselves and the stretched wires (cables) do not interfere with anyone and do not end up underfoot. Any mechanisms, especially electrical ones, are checked in advance on the ground, and not only before starting work in general, but also at the beginning of each working day. The integrity and serviceability of the insulation is also carefully checked. Before lifting large sheets up, you need to make sure that there is no strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

    All work with metal tiles, even unpacking, must be carried out in gloves and overalls, because the edges of any sheet of metal tiles are extremely sharp and sometimes jagged.

    Any instruction for professional builders invariably reminds that this material is slippery, and walk on it with extreme caution, only with a safety belt. If the metal tile is lifted using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their serviceability before each start. You cannot walk and stand under the lifting point and within a certain radius from it (the stronger the wind is within the allowable range, the greater this radius). When unloading packages, they are always lifted, but not pulled out of the stack.

    A typical technological map requires not to lift a long shaped sheet by the edges, they are supposed to be held only from the sides. If dirt is found on the metal tile, it must be removed with household detergents, moreover, as gentle as possible. Strong mixtures can damage the finish. It is not always possible to apply all the delivered sheets in one day, so you need to know how their storage is organized. It is impossible to leave the metal tile in the factory tight packaging, it is folded on inclined bars, since this allows the drops of rain to leave and evaporate.

    Plastic-coated metal tiles must be stored (both in packaging and without it) for a maximum of 14 days. If you want to leave it for a longer time, store the material in the same way as the galvanized type.

    Step-by-step instructions for laying sheets of material implies preliminary preparation:

    • additional support boards;
    • bars for a through outlet (fire or inspection hatch);
    • stairs on the roof;
    • wall ladders, partially brought out to the roof;
    • snow catchers;
    • roof bridges.

    Cut metal tiles up to the right size recommended with saws and scissors for metal, hand-held electric saws with hard metal teeth. A grinder with abrasive discs is not only harmful when cutting material, it cannot be used closer than 10 m from the sheet, since flying sparks can damage the tiles. When going to fix the coating, its surface must be free of chips, fasteners and rivets. The assembled metal tile is painted with paints suitable for metal at the eaves themselves. The same paints are applied to the edges of the sawn-off cuttings and to all accidentally appeared scratches.

    A special feature of 1/1025 format sheets is that some of them are equipped with an auxiliary lateral bend, simplifying installation and blocking material spillage. On a roof of a complex configuration, such a coating can be laid only after careful measurements, while the required length of sheets should be calculated by professionals.

    Working on a hipped roof, the cut blocks cannot be placed on opposite slopes, since they have a transverse pattern.

    If you have to step on the laid sheets of metal, it is advisable to walk in the places where the crate is placed.

    It is impossible to properly cover the roof with this material, if you do not check whether the transverse folds are well joined after installing each block.

    • 0.48x5;
    • 0.48x6.5;
    • 0.48x8 cm.

    A special role belongs to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. They are necessary to attach the cover in the lower parts of the waves, at the cornices, in the overlaps. They are also recommended to fix the strips. Not all fasteners of a certain size are suitable for the job, in this case it is recommended to use screws with an EPDM rubber sealing layer. For your information: using nails is categorically wrong, since they are less reliable than screws.

    It is a big mistake to tighten the fasteners all the way - in this case, the surface may become covered with dents.

    Hand tightening screws is impractical and tedious. To simplify the work, an electric drill helps, which has functions of smooth adjustment of revolutions and can operate in reverse mode. Shaped sheets lead at an angle of 1: 4, and trapezoidal ones must be installed at an angle of 1: 7. Some manufacturers disclaim responsibility if the profile is placed on a roof with a lower slope. For standing seam roofs of the classic type, you need to make a slope of at least 1: 12.

    The pediment strips are attached from the sides to the pediment boards, and at the top they are attached to the metal tile. The fasteners are placed at a distance of 80 cm from each other, the mutual overlap of the pediment strips is 10 cm. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, it is supposed to fasten the end caps with rivets. The overlap is made 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. From two to five ridge strips are tied into a single block using screws and placed along the course of the ridge.

    Next, the joints between the strip and the profile sheet are sealed. The ridge elements themselves are pierced with screws through the seals to the sheets along the top of the waves (they go through one wave). The ridge adjacent to the ramp is best done like this: the butt is cut off under the ramp and mounted tightly under the sheet.

    To seal the shaped ridge elements, it is recommended to take a self-adhesive joint of the "Top-Roll" type.

    There is nothing complicated in all these works. You just need to be careful and careful.

    Even with a complete understanding of the standard work technology, you can make serious mistakes or miss an opportunity to reduce costs and simplify work.

    According to experts, high-quality ventilation of the space under the roof made of metal tiles meets three requirements:

    • a break from the waterproofing to the metal itself is provided;
    • air flows freely through the cornice;
    • nothing prevents him from passing through the area under the ridge.

    Only by fulfilling these conditions, it is possible to guarantee stable insulation of the attic or attic.

    Before work, check the timber and boards. It should not show signs of mechanical destruction or insect impact.

    Do not take material with deep cracks or poorly dried wood. All nails must be made from stainless grades become. The required length is recognized by doubling the thickness of the lathing.

    If you have to dock the boards together, you need to bring the border to the rafters whenever possible.

    Adjacent horizontal rows are placed so that the joints are mutually offset. Self-tapping screws, which fasten the sheets of metal, are placed at least 6-8 pieces per 1 sq. m, because the coating is heavy and must be thoroughly pressed against the support. By doing tiled roof for a warm attic, it is advisable to install the windows of the living room on a crate held by rafter beams. If the windows are very large, it is best to attach them directly to the rafters.

    Waterproofing membranes with increased diffusion are placed on the insulation without gaps, and the anti-condensation film should be installed at a certain interval. Between two adjacent rafters, the film can sag by a maximum of 20 mm (with a maximum distance of 120 cm). If the lathing is made of wood, an anti-condensation film should be placed under the counter lattice. This will optimize ventilation from sheet to film. When the gutter is created, the installation of the eaves is preceded by the placement of the gutter holders. And the cornice itself should end at the level of a third of the gutter going from the wall.

    Self-drilling screws with a flat top are used to connect the cornice to the lathing. You need to dock two cornices with a run of 5-10 cm. You can hem the cornice overhangs of the roof itself with a profiled sheet, metal siding or facade panels.

    It is strictly forbidden to fasten metal tiles to the upper deflections of the waves, as well as to use a hammer to secure self-tapping screws.

    The lower valley is fastened to clamps, and at least 10 cm should remain from the end of the sheet to the lowest point of the valley.

    The upper valley is mounted after the metal tile layout is completed. For this, roofing screws are used, piercing the tops of the waves with a step of 20 ... 30 cm. In this case, it is unacceptable to violate the lower valley. When attaching the gables, they try to cover the upper deflections of the waves. The ridge and the metal tile are separated using polyurethane foam, and the ends of the ridge element must be covered with a decorative plug. The joints must be treated with sealants.

    Wall profiles are necessarily used where the roof is suitable not only for walls, but also for various pipes and dormer windows.

    They are applied to metal tiles and attached to problematic elements. At the level of the eaves, after the second lathing strip, various fences are mounted. Their type and specific design are determined by the slope of the roof and the type of tile. For the connection, it is recommended to use self-drilling bolts with an outer zinc layer (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 for wood).

    It is unacceptable to fix the fence to only one metal tile.

    To connect the enclosing structures with each other, bolts are used. Snow-retarding elements are placed in the wave deflection, they are fixed through the tiles and the sealing strip to the crate itself. In the places provided for this, crate profiles are made in advance with a step of 12 cm (it is counted along the axes of the profiles).

    Snow guards should be mounted above the fence, and if the slope is longer than 10 m, it is advisable to use their pairs.

    You can watch the installation process of metal tiles in the video below.

    For the arrangement of the roofing part, metal tiles have been increasingly used lately. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can independently carry out the installation of metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

    Fragment laying works roofing

    The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

    List of merits

    First of all, you need to highlight the following advantages:

    • aesthetic appeal;
    • resistance to weathering;
    • affordable cost;
    • the lightness of the basic elements.


    Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their color range can vary in a fairly wide range.

    Few disadvantages

    Since the sheets are thin and large enough, there is still a risk of damaging them if they are carelessly installed. Subject to all the rules, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.


    Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect during heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this minus is completely excluded.

    Related article:

    Installation tools

    It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and accessories for work:

    Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

    Basic set of accessories

    V step by step instructions for the installation of metal tiles, the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets must be mentioned. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational characteristics.


    It is suggested to take a look at the list of basic parts:

    • a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
    • the end plate is necessary for the design of the edges from the side of the gable overhangs;
    • the valley is installed in the places where the slopes are combined;
    • the cornice strip is attached from the side of the gutters;
    • the abutment bar is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
    • a snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

    Installation instructions for metal tiles: step by step performance of work

    Loading and unloading of products can be carried out manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required for 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments 6 m long, 3-4 people must be present.

    Waterproofing device and fixing control bars

    If thermal insulation is to be laid between the rafters, then the waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is fastened with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

    Bars 50x50 mm are nailed directly along the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixing, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

    Correct installation of the lathing under the metal tile

    As a crate, it is usually used edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars with nails at least 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

    In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two strips close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tile. The same should be done in the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the rest by the height of the wave. Usually, the thickness of the lining is sufficient to compensate for the difference.

    Installation of parts mounted to sheets

    To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, the eaves of metal tiles are being installed. An additional ventilation tape must be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

    When installing the valley, the universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element must be on the surface cornice boards... At the horizontal joint, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

    The outlining of the brick chimney implies the withdrawal of the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into a valley located in the immediate vicinity.

    The process of laying and fixing sheets

    All sheets must be horizontally aligned with a 50 mm crate outlet. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

    • the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the crate;
    • fastening to the lower board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
    • along the edge of the ramp, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

    Installation of end strips and ridge

    Elements for closing end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent strips should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

    As for the ridge, it is fixed in the upper crest of every second wave. When building up the elements, a gap of at least 15 cm is left. A self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

    Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

    The number of elements for holding snow drifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow removal, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Through-type snow holders are the optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long screws to the crate itself through. The distance between the fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

    After the rafter system is already ready, the question arises - how to properly lay the metal tile? To begin with, it is necessary to carry out control measurements of the slopes, since minor deviations could occur during the construction of the house and the rafter system. Such a check is performed on the rectangularity and flatness of the roof, measuring the length of the diagonals of the slopes. Minor rectangular defects can be hidden by additional elements (read: ""). Otherwise, it will be necessary to trim the slopes.

    The main dimension that determines the length of the sheet is the height of the slope (from the cornice). This takes into account the overhang of the metal tile from the eaves (approximately 3-4 cm). If the length of the slope is more than 7 meters, then it is customary to divide the sheets into several pieces, which are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. The use of long sheets allows you to organize fewer joints. But working with such sheets is a little more difficult than with short ones. Well, it depends on the specific model of the material.

    Daily temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensation on the inner surface of the metal tile. In addition, steam is converted into water, which rises from the interior of the house. An excess of moisture becomes the reason for the soaking of the insulation and the loss of its thermal properties. Also, high humidity is the main reason for the freezing of the roof, the formation of ice, the appearance of mold and rotting of the wooden elements of the roof.

    To remove moisture from the under-roof space, natural ventilation is organized so that air can easily pass from the eaves to the ridge. Therefore, a ventilation gap with a height of 4-5 cm is left between the metal tile and the waterproofing. In the filing of the roof overhangs, ventilation slots with a width of 5 cm are also provided.

    Waterproofing device

    A special membrane-type film acts as a waterproofing. Its principle of operation is that moisture from the side of the roofing cannot penetrate the insulation, at the same time warm air from the interior, it easily enters the ventilation gap through the membranes.

    Attaching additional elements

    If the gutter system is created from rectangular profiles, then the gutter is inserted into the holders. Then a cornice-type bar is attached to the crate underneath. In this case, its lower edge should overlap the edge of the gutter. The under-roof waterproofing is brought out over the eaves strip. This is done so that the condensate can drain freely into the gutter.

    If a profile is used to organize the drainage system round section, then the groove is inserted into the holders, while its edge is brought into the fixing protrusion. The eaves-type plank is attached so that its lower edge overlaps the edge of the gutter. Roof waterproofing is removed in the same way as in the previous case.


    End strips are attached to the ends of the roof. They are installed in 50-60 cm increments using self-tapping screws. An overlap of 50 mm should form between the planks. If necessary, the end strips are trimmed.

    Then the ridge strips are installed. They are of two types: flat and round. For a strip of circular cross-section, the installation begins with fastening flat or conical plugs at its ends (for this, rivets or self-tapping screws are used). In the case of a flat ridge strip, such plugs are not required.

    In addition, a seal is placed on the ridge. It is on it that the ridge strip will be installed. In this case, it is necessary to first cut out the places for the ventilation holes in the seal. The ridge strip is fastened using roofing screws 80 mm long. They are screwed in at every second wave of tiles. An overlap of 10 cm is organized between the ridge strips.

    How to install metal tiles - roofing

    In order to ensure the safety of movement on the roof during maintenance work, a vertical fence is attached to the cornice. The crate under the fence is made, as for other accessories - solid. The fence supports are fixed with galvanized screws in the places of deflection of the tiles' waves. The support is installed taking into account the level of the roof slope. The step between two adjacent supports is often 90 cm. After the supports are fixed, a fence is attached to them.

    Choosing a roofing material is not an easy task. The roof must be reliable, beautiful, durable, and, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are met by a roof made of metal tiles. To the pluses it must be added, not the most difficult installation, which even a person without experience in roofing can handle with his own hands.

    Metal roofing - beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive

    Types of metal tiles

    The metal tile is formed from sheet metal with a thickness of 0.35-0.7 mm, on which protective and decorative compounds are applied. It turns out a multi-layered cake. The basis of this building material- most often steel, but there are options from copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have high price... For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are practically not found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.

    There are both imported and domestic metal tiles on sale. The European version is strictly made of steel 0.5 mm thick - this is spelled out in the standard. In our GOST, it is allowed from 0.45 to 0.5 mm.

    except different materials bases, a different protective coating is applied. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and alumina. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is he who provides better protection, although such processing costs a little more.

    More different compositions there is for a topcoat, one that, along with protection against weathering, gives the material one color or another.

    Types of protective and decorative external coatings

    The outer covering of the metal tile performs two functions at the same time. It protects the base metal from corrosion and gives the material an attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coverage:

    1. The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total roofs are covered with this type of material. All because he has average price and good performance. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to UV light and corrosion, but it is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when a lot of snow melts. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfall. In other areas, it is advisable to install a snow retention system to prevent massive snow melting. If you cover the roof with such material, you need to be careful during installation.

    2. Matt polyester (MPE) is made by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - the service life is 10-15 years, it can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tiles with a matte polyester coating is a smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).

    3. Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based compound. It has a beautiful structured surface, is applied in a layer of 200 microns, due to which the coating is resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low resistance to ultraviolet light, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride in the composition, this coating is prohibited.

    4. Pural is a polyurethane-based coating with polymer additives. Available in glossy (PUR) and matt (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness - 50 microns, service life - up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstisol, but better than all others), it tolerates ultraviolet light and aggressive environments, and can be used for roofing on the seaside.

      Pural is one of the most durable coatings

    5. Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) - a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main plus is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very durable to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, resistance to fading, long service life - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.

      The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride

    It is clear that when building a house you do not want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the cheapest option - polyester-coated metal tiles. But this is not the best solution. Let's estimate. The service life of metal tiles with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, the average cost - with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm - about 260 rubles / m 2, with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm - 440 rubles / m 2. Even roofing material will last 10 years, the price of a square for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let's take a very a good option- with pural coating. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles / m2 to 635 rubles / m2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service it will be 12-17 rubles / m 2. The difference is obvious. And this is without taking into account the work on the roof covering, and this is also time and money.

    Profile types

    When laying metal tiles, its geometric dimensions are important, as well as wave parameters - the crate is calculated and mounted under them. Also, the wave height determines the degree of stiffness of the sheet - at high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is required - the toughest, under normal conditions a metal tile with a low wave (less than 50 mm) is suitable.

    The waveform can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a few different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (useful width of the sheet of metal, the amount of overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.

    Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from the Monterrey profile. It has a rounded, slightly asymmetrical waveform. There are 7 subspecies with different wave parameters.

    The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofs are made of it. It is formed by straight lines and has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on the roofs of complex shapes with a lot of broken lines.

    This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads - the wave height is small, the loads can withstand medium.

    About 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia. It resembles the classic semicircular shingles more than anyone else. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced drops.

    The profile is designed so that the joint is on the wave wall, it is practically invisible. The impression of a monolithic roof covering is created.

    Sheet sizes and wave parameters of Andalusia metal tiles

    If we talk about color, then, depending on the type of coating, shades are usually from 20 to 40 pieces. Choose the one that suits your taste best. The service life or other characteristics do not depend on the color, although it is believed that dark colors burn out faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and pigment, but not on the color.

    Calculation of the amount of metal tiles

    To calculate the required number of sheets of material, you first need to determine the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - the exact dimensions of the material itself will be needed, and each profile has its own. Then you need to make accurate measurements of the slopes - length, height, if any, you need to measure all the ledges or other decorative elements that will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof is of a complex shape, it is better to draw its plan, put down all the dimensions and then sit down for the calculations.

    Number of rows

    It is best not to look for metal tiles in shops or markets. It is advisable to go directly to the manufacturer. The point is not only in the price - it may not be very different, but in the fact that many workshops / factories offer to cut sheets of the required sizes. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (taking into account the eaves).

    This option is good because the metal roofing will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chances for a leak. The second plus is the minimum amount of waste and a smaller amount of the material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters). Cons - difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets upward, inconvenient styling.

    When using sheets standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by the useful length of the sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after the horizontal overlap value has been subtracted from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot get into the under-roof space. On roofs with an angle of inclination up to 12 °, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm, with a slope from 12 ° to 30 °, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30 ° - 100-150 mm. A given amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the "useful length".

    An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on the roof... Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet - 2.3 m.Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round up to an integer - we get 2 rows. In this case, only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since this piece cannot be used anywhere else.

    Number of sheets in a row

    Take the length of the slope and divide by the useful width of the sheet. This parameter is specified in technical characteristics to the metal tile. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). The resulting number is rounded up, we get the number of sheets in a row.

    An example of calculating metal sheets in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet is 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but round up to a larger integer and get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.

    Features of hip roofs

    Have hip roofs slopes are triangular or trapezoidal. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet - in order to minimize the amount of waste.

    The height is selected so that no more than half of it goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do it manually, and still there is a significant error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculated using programs. They are usually available from vendors and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and at home to first measure the parameters of the roof (or call a measurer), and then try to choose the dimensions yourself. Then it will be possible to compare the quantity required material calculated by you and proposed.

    Determination of the number of additional elements

    A roof made of metal tiles requires a large number of various additional elements (extras) that shape the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjoining roof slopes). The more complex the shape of the roof, the more voluntary is required. With a simple gable roof, ridge elements and plugs, cornice and pediment strips will be needed. That's all.

    What are the additional elements for metal roofing and why are they needed?

    Despite the wide variety of addons, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface to be mounted on and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result is rounded up.

    What and how to attach

    The metal tile is fixed with special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. As well as the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and on top are painted to match the coating. When installing, the self-tapping screw must be screwed strictly perpendicular to the roof surface, its inclination is not allowed.

    When fixing metal tiles, you must also pay attention to how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. It is impossible to tighten too much, bending the metal, but also a loose fit must not be allowed - the connection will not be airtight.

    Lathing for metal tiles

    Metal tile is a rather rigid material, therefore a sparse crate is made under it, which consists of slats that are located along the eaves of the roof.

    What material

    If the roof made of metal tiles has a simple structure, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) with a width of 100 mm goes to the crate. On a roof with a complex shape or in regions with heavy snow loads, it is better to use a plank of 32 mm thickness or a beam of 50-50 mm. The beam is also used with a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).

    Sheathing step

    Installation of metal tiles on the roof has one important feature. The profile has the strongest place - under the step of the wave in the hollow. It is here that the self-tapping screw should be tightened. The lathing must be made so that the middle of the plank is just under this place. This is what causes difficulties: the profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own step of installing the battens. This value can be determined by measuring the existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tile.

    There are a few important points lathing devices for metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the step height for this profile is added to the selected plank thickness. In addition, this bar is made wider than all the others - a drip will be attached to it, which closes the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.

    Also note that the second plank is not packed with a standard, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step when installing the last plank near the ridge also differs - it is obtained in fact, as well as the height of the plank. We remind you that there should be large enough gaps in the ridge area - and the crate and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for proper ventilation of the attic.

    Installation procedure and features

    Before you cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:

    • First of all, you need to take care of proper storage - in ventilated stacks, arranged in bars.
    • When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but only cut with a jigsaw or metal scissors. The grinder overheats the metal, due to which the zinc evaporates, the material will begin to rust in the places of the cut.
    • Begin laying the sheets from the lower right corner (see the photo below for the installation diagram of metal tile sheets).
    • When installing, wear soft, well-fitting shoes, step only on the lower part of the wave.

    Next, we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the type chosen, the order of work changes - when arranging a warm attic, two more layers are added - insulation and a vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room.

    Cold metal roofing

    This type of roof is suitable if the attic is planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect it from precipitation and wind. The order of work is as follows:


    Warm roof

    When installing an insulated roof made of metal tiles in roofing pie added more thermal insulation material, which is attached between the rafters, and a vapor barrier film, which is stuffed onto the rafters from the side of the attic. Further, the entire installation process is similar.

    How to attach sheets

    When we cover the roof with metal tiles, the screws must be correctly positioned. There are several rules to follow:

    • Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
    • The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Also, fasteners are installed in the places of horizontal and vertical joints.
    • The waves between the horizontal joints are fastened through one in a checkerboard pattern.

    These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. In a graphic representation, some things are easier to understand.

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