What can be cooked from squid: quick and tasty

Chimneys are used to remove combustion products and generate traction in furnaces. By design and location relative to the furnace, chimneys are root, top-mounted and in the form of a channel in the main wall. Pipes installed on the furnace are called shell-mounted. This is actually an extension of the furnace smoke channel; they are convenient in that they do not take up space in the room. The root chimneys are arranged in the form of a stand-alone pipe stand near the furnace on its own foundation.

Their use is especially justified in wooden houses with a group arrangement of heating devices. V brick buildings it is better to arrange smoke channels in the internal capital walls.

Wall chimneys do not take up living space and do not require materials.

The determination of the cross-section of the chimney flue is carried out depending on the heat transfer of the furnaces. The size cross section channels must correspond to the number of flue gases flowing through them and be at least 130x130mm for furnaces with heat transfer up to 3500W. For furnaces with a heat transfer of more than 3500W, the pipe section is made 130x250mm. For Russian stoves and fireplaces with a large portal, the chimney section is 260x260mm.

Depending on the size of the channel, the laying is carried out in different ways: in four bricks "four", five bricks "five" or six bricks "six".

The chimney consists of the following parts:

The stacking of the chimney does not differ from the brickwork of the stove.

The difficulty is its laying in the place of its transition through the attic floor and the widening device above the roof. The main requirement is the verticality of the array, dense filling of the joints, achieving a smooth surface of the smoke channels.

The masonry of the top-mounted pipe is a continuation of the masonry of the stove, since it is installed on its ceiling and is carried out on the same mortar before crossing the attic floor.

At the point where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a horizontal cutting is arranged - the widening of the walls. The horizontal cutting is done for fire safety.

Cutting and pipe are placed simultaneously with the dressing of the seams, outer wall gradually expands, and the inner channel goes in one section.

This is achieved by overlapping the outer masonry by 4 cm in each row.

Between cutting and wooden beams you need to lay non-combustible thermal insulation, for example, basalt mats.

In a freshly cut wooden house, the cutting should be done taking into account the shrinkage of the walls, lowering it by 4% of the height of the walls.

It is better to lay the riser within the attic space along the beacon.

To do this, lay 2-3 rows of pipes over the cutting. A plumb line is lowered to one of the corners from the plane of the roof.

Brick chimney masonry

A nail is driven into the point on the roof lathing from which the plumb line is lowered. A nylon thread is tied to the nail, and the lower end of the thread is tied to a nail hammered into the seam of the chimney masonry in the corner. The laying is carried out along this corner, checking after 3-4 rows with a square or measuring diagonals.

The greatest difficulty is the laying of the pipe above the roof.

There, the masonry is carried out on a complex clay-cement mortar. I make the solution as follows: add 1 liter of cement for 10 liters to the clay-sand mortar from which the oven is served, a little water and mix thoroughly with a mixer.

If the pipe is laid without adding cement, it may turn out like this.

The pipe stand is taken out above the lower edge of the roof by 2 rows and the otter is laid down - the expansion of the pipe that protects the stand from precipitation.

They lay it with careful dressing of the stitches. The first row is increased by overlapping a brick by a quarter in one direction to form an overhang over the roof towards the slope. The second row begins to form an overhang from the sides and make it overlap on both sides by a quarter of a brick.

The inner walls of the canal lead strictly vertically. Since the pipes can be of different cross sections, and the roof has a different slope, the otter is laid individually each time. Here is one of the options for the ordering of the otter and the order of the fluff.

Laying fluff is a rather laborious and time-consuming job. To increase productivity, the fluff can be made of reinforced concrete. For reinforcement, 5-7 mm reinforcement is used at the rate of 4-5 bars on each side of the slab.

Two rods of reinforcement must necessarily lie on the brickwork.

The fluffing plate can be made on-site or separately with subsequent laying. In both cases, it is necessary to make a formwork. When fabricated on site, the formwork is secured as tightly as possible. The width of each side of the formwork must be at least 250mm from the "smoke". Between the fluff and the ceiling, it is imperative to put heat-insulating material. In this photo, these are two layers of 5mm asbestos.

When passing the ceiling with a double-circuit metal pipe, the hole in the ceiling is closed with a sheet of galvanized iron, on which basalt insulation and wraps around the pipe.

Sometimes, to simplify laying, instead of laying an otter, I make such a belt.

Above the otter, lay the neck of a pipe of the same section as the riser.

Finish the laying with a head. To protect the pipe from atmospheric precipitation, it is advisable to install a cap made of galvanized iron or other material on it. The cap protects the top of the pipe and prevents moisture from penetrating into the duct.

The head of the pipe plays only a decorative role, it does not have to be done.

If a head is made at the pipe, then the internal section at this point should not change so that there are no swirls of smoke in the pipe.

In order for the water not to stagnate on the horizontal surfaces of the otter and the head, they are plastered with a slope.

The height of the pipe above the roof has a significant effect on the operation of the furnace.

If the chimney is located in the area of ​​the wind support, then in windy weather, smoke can go into the room. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to lay the height of the pipe relative to the ridge of the roof according to the figure.

If you do not adhere to this rule, then this can happen.

After finishing laying the pipe, so that precipitation does not fall into the attic and does not damage the pipe riser, you need to close the gap between the pipe and the roof with galvanized iron or other material.

Here is a pipe version without an otter.

To prevent water from flowing down the pipe under the roof, an incision is made along the pipe with a grinder to a depth of 10 mm.

Then the sheet of the apron is inserted and the groove is filled with sealant.

You can learn more about laying chimneys and working on the roof in the DIY Stoves video tutorial.

Here are photos of finished pipes.

Protective materials for wooden structures
Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation
You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation
To the rescue - sandwich pipes
Pipe insulation in a primordial Russian bath
Stove fire protection

If you decide to build a bathhouse, then do not forget about the high-quality insulation of the stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may have serious problems with the fire of the building ceiling. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on the pressing problem today - do-it-yourself pipe insulation in a bath.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and the stove quickly heat up, a fire may occur. Moreover, according to tradition, wood is the material for the bath.

Even in the old days, it was customary to insulate walls, a ceiling, a stove, a chimney with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials that are rather poorly conductive. thermal energy and resistant to high temperatures.

So how to overlay the pipe from the stove today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for the purpose of fire safety and protection against condensation, so that cooling is slower and the flue system lasts longer.

It is a mistake to believe that a few metal sheets, which are upholstered in the ceiling around the chimney. After all, the metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and it will not work as a heat insulator either.

A red brick is not always needed for lining a pipe, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties.

The reason is that such a design is not combined for every bath in design.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney from a fire, consider two options insulating materials as:

Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation

It is a unique material with polyethylene foam sandwiched between a pair of foil sheets.

With the help of thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate the chimney, moreover, independently.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of the foil serves reliable protection pipes from significant overheating. With the help of wire or scotch tape, a metal master is attached to the thermal insulation, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second one plays a reflective function and can store up to 90% of thermal energy in a building. Folgoizol is a harmless material in comparison with other analogues, since compacted food foil acts as a foil. The material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures in the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, a good insulator.

Who else does not know how to insulate the chimney pipe in a sauna, we recommend covering the ceiling of the steam room, walls and chimney with foil-insulating material. As a result, you will get a room that resembles a thermos in design. The heat will remain in the sauna, and the bath will quickly pick up the temperature, and then slowly cool down.

To the rescue - sandwich pipes

For those who wish to equip a safe chimney in the bath, we suggest using a sandwich pipe.

This design includes several sections that can be easily placed into each other, i.e. looks like a layered cake.

We lay out the chimney made of brick

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

• layer of of stainless steel(from the inside);
• insulation in the form of basalt / mineral wool (in the middle);
• zinc coated steel (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of a chimney built into common system, and is designed to simultaneously solve two problems:

• protection against accumulation of soot inside;
• maintaining optimal temperature outside.

It is easy to assemble the sandwich pipe by yourself and use it for a sauna with an iron stove or a bath.

What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to overlay the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a primordial Russian bath

At elevated temperatures, refractory red brick retains its operational properties, therefore it is in demand when building a chimney in a bath with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed the protection of the pipe from fire and long-term preservation of heat.

The service life of the structure depends on how well the brick pipe is folded. Do not skimp on materials during the construction of the chimney, because

then the repair will be much more expensive for you.

Let's take a closer look at how to isolate a pipe in a bath from the ceiling:

1. Use asbestos to line the pipe outlet on the ceiling and through the roof.
2. Using galvanized material, insulate the walls from the inside of the pipe.

   Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrosion.

3. Run a box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling.
4. Pour expanded clay into the box to preserve heat and protect wooden floors from fire.

You professionally wrapped the pipe, but the work on the arrangement of the chimney did not end there.

The next step is measures to insulate the stove, ceiling and walls of the bath.

Stove fire protection

Modern metal stoves are mounted on a foundation, while sheathed with sheets of the same material on the back and side of the wall. If you independently beat the stove with only metal, then it appearance will not be very aesthetic. It is better to make the external brickwork with red brick, which insulates the stove from fire and keeps the heat in the bath.

Due to the fact that asbestos emits toxic substances at elevated temperatures, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room.

Natural felt is considered harmless, which, moreover, is a good insulator. For the price, this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering it emits a specific smell (felt does not ignite), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the stove on a wooden floor, then first it is better to spread the felt material in a couple of layers, then lay out the brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is advised to lay sheets of metal as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

And you will no longer have any questions about how to wind chimney pipes.

Before the start construction works smoke brick channels must be prepared, corresponding to the special design of the furnace, the features of the internal layout of the premises, the structural differences of the roof.

Continue until they cover the neck of the cut (workpiece). It should be noted that regardless of the external size of the inner section, the vertical smoke along the entire length is the same and is approximately 140x270 millimeters (average parameters, but in fact it can vary depending on the heater power and the size of the smoke).

After five rows of doors, the cut begins to adhere to the outer dimensions of the first row of approximately 590 x 450 mm, which is achieved by inserting half and a quarter of bricks. To avoid deflection in the flue section, insert 60 mm brick slabs inserted inside. In the third row, the dimensions of the brick chimney change again and are already 510 × 650 millimeters.

Brick slabs are also inserted inside. The outer dimensions of the fourth row are made of 570 × 710 millimeters, and inside there are bricks with a thickness of 90-100 millimeters. The fifth and sixth lines are made of solid bricks and strictly follow the dress code. If necessary, cutting can be continued for another type.

After the wall is completed, the brick-built brick structure is moved to the attic where the hoist is set up.

To reach it outwards, there must be the first hole on the roof. The foundation is very quick and easy to build, since it involves the implementation of conventional masonry and does not require manipulating the dimensions of the pipes.

When it comes to the roof, all the work goes to the roof. The vortex pattern continues to rise one or two rows above the roof, after which the construction of the otter begins.

This chimney segment consists of nine types, while it is positioned so that the outer dimension of each successive row exceeds the previous brick block.

At the same time, the size of the flue must remain the same, so choose carefully interior panels with which it is configured. At the beginning, the bricks are laid in such a way that only one gap is formed in front, and the outer size of the chimney does not change at the edges. In the third row, the otter gets wider due to the advanced bricks, which means that the front ledge gradually begins to appear on the sides.

In the fourth row, the side projections increase in length. The more their length increases in the fifth row, the greater the difference between the chimney and the roof overlap. In the sixth order, this gap is almost completely closed, and in the seventh case, the formation of the side surfaces is completed.

As a result of all the transformations described above, an anterior and two lateral projections are formed, the latter protrusions remain.

As you can see, at the moment there is nothing that even many experienced builders would ask the question of how to build a brick chimney, because the matter is rather complicated and requires the greatest attention and compliance with all technological requirements.

The last fourth projections are formed in the eighth order. Observation of brick ligation and careful selection is of particular importance. brick slabs, which allow the flue duct to remain unchanged with a constant change in the external dimensions of the pipe.

Brick chimney - we build a reliable structure independently

Finally, the ninth type of otter is defined similarly to the eighth, and at the same time the chimney neck already begins at this stage. Its size can vary depending on the height of the chimney. At this stage, you must adhere to the rules and regulations that apply to the height of the chimney above the roof, as this will have serious consequences for the draft during the operation of the stove (see “Chimney with hands”).

So, we figured out how to build a brick chimney, but you need to look for some of the nuances and problems that you will have to face in the process.

During the implementation of the wall, it is necessary to control the thoroughness of the ligation of the bricks with each other, especially in half, quarter and other parts and brick slabs.

A skilled worker with stoves will not be a big problem to distribute a part of the required size from all bricks, but for those with insufficient experience it can be very difficult.

The best way out of this position is to buy a special grinder... This makes it easy to obtain chimney masonry elements of the required size, which is especially important if panels are needed to form a smoke channel between the cutter or otters.

It is important to remember that the thickness of the seam directly affects the strength of the brick, and as it is thinner, the chimney will become stronger.

In this regard, you must carefully measure the location of the future installation, in accordance with this data, use the cutting line of the knives and only after that you cut. Sometimes it may even be necessary for some of the bricks to be irregular in shape, so a mistake here can cost broken bricks and time to waste.

To summarize all of the above, it is easy to understand that it is very difficult to install a brick chimney with your own hands on a person who does not have enough experience.

But don't give up, because this is an easy way for beginners to take advantage of the building. Also read: "Do-it-yourself chimney."

Alternative construction of a brick chimney

If the above method of laying the chimney seems too difficult and impossible for someone, then do not give up and do not give up. There is an alternative way to install a brick chimney that has the least skill. This means the implementation of normal masonry, in which the entire chimney, arising from the pipe and ending with the head, will have the same size.

There is a logical question: what in this case cuts and tears? They will also be, but they will also be made of concrete. Also read: "Diagram of a chimney for a gas boiler".

Brick bricks for gas boilers and ventilation, detailed video instruction:

Before starting work, you must first place metal rods, wire or reinforcement with a diameter of 5-7 millimeters.

When installing the chimney in places where it is necessary to cut the otter, the parts of the envelope should be installed in the brick. It is important to ensure that no metal elements cross the flue duct. After completing the chimney wall, you only need to install the support in the right place, prepare the cement mortar and fill it (see also: "Do-it-yourself chimney cleaning - methods").

As you can see, even without much experience and with minimal knowledge of brick bricks, your hands to build a chimney, without resorting to the help of builders, have instead opted to install metal pipes, which are much worse in execution than brick chimneys.

If you have something that does not work right away, do not panic, just study the diagram more carefully, see tips experienced craftsmen, try to figure out what is causing the problem, the next attempt will most likely be successful.

The reward for hard work and inertia will be a good and functional chimney that will last for over a decade and ensure the heating equipment works properly.

Also read: "The device of the chimney in the bathroom."

The technology of laying a brick chimney itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the very brick oven, the pipe usually does not have complex internal channels. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot ignore the colossal significance of this department of the furnace, since the quality of heating the house and the safety of both the structure itself and the people living in it directly depend on it.

Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on the recommendations of experienced craftsmen and on the developed and tested design schemes.
When erecting a chimney, it should be remembered that the evenness of the inner walls of the channel is no less important than the aesthetics of the outer masonry. This circumstance determines not only the stability of the required thrust in the furnace, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves on smooth walls, without protruding solution and deepened seams, a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste, and the channel overgrows much slower.

What are the types of brick chimneys?
Chimneys of brick ovens may have different types, depending on the place of their installation, the design of the stove, as well as on how many heating devices will be connected to the pipe. So, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

Mounted chimneys. The most widely used designs are shell pipes... They are good because they are compact and do not take up additional space in the room at all, but simply are a vertical continuation of the oven.
A stacked chimney is, in fact, an upward extension of the stove. Very often, the orders of the furnace include immediately the layout of the initial section of the pipe.
They are erected on top of the last brick row overlapping the furnace, around the hole left.

Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, rafter system and rises above the roof.

Indigenous chimneys. This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove to it, or several heating devices located on one or even several floors.

The main chimney allows connecting metal stoves to it. And also several heating devices located at different levels of the building.
In addition to metal, brick ovens can be connected to such a pipe. This type of chimney is especially convenient in the event that it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in adjacent rooms.

For example, a kitchen needs an oven with hob, and for the next room - only heating. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a main chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heating devices are connected.

To a pipe of this type, not only two, but also three to four stoves can be connected, located on different floors of the house. In any case, it is necessary to very accurately calculate the size of the internal channel of the chimney, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices work simultaneously.

Wall chimneys are built near the main (external or internal) walls or built into them. They can be used, just like the indigenous ones, to connect several stoves located on different floors of a building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is located, as it were, outside living quarters, without occupying their area. For example, on the first floor of the house a fireplace can be built and connected to the wall chimney (there the chimney will look more like a top-mounted one according to the principle of structure), and on the second floor a chimney pipe of a metal stove is cut in (the same as in the version with a fundamental requirement).

The disadvantages of this chimney option are the considerable cost of the project and the laboriousness of the work. Firstly, much more building material will be required to erect this structure.

Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise in winter period, with temperature drops, condensation will form in the internal ducts, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, if this option of the chimney is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the area inside the premises and bring the pipe along inner wall at home.

Parameters of brick chimneys
The main sections of the brick chimney
The brick chimney is subdivided into departments that have a purpose and are named differently.

These features must be clarified immediately, so that in the future it would be easier to understand the description of the work on the construction of the pipe (Figure 5).
1 - The head of the pipe. Laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are shifted to the outside to form a kind of "visor", as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the walls of the pipe from atmospheric precipitation.

2 - The neck of the pipe is located immediately under the head and has the same perimeter along its entire height, without protrusions, extensions or narrowings.
3 - "Otter" has a more complex masonry scheme, since it has a protective function. First, the "otter" masonry hanging over the gap formed at the junction roofing material and the walls of the pipe, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of waterproofing material.

Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the place of passage through the roofing, due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.
4 - A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted in the lower part of the otter, forms a kind of ebb, which closes the joint between the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 - "Flare" - this expanded part of the pipe, located in the area of ​​its passage through the attic floor.

The walls of the "fluff", like the "otters", are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and they should not be allowed to overheat.

6 - Roofing structure.
7 - A riser is a straight section of a pipe that has an even masonry along its entire height and is located in the attic space from "fluff" to "otter".
8 - Attic floor.

9 - On top of the head, an umbrella-cap is very often fixed, which will protect the inner channel of the chimney from water and debris getting into it.

The main function of the chimney is to effectively remove the combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere.

How to build a brick chimney: a treasure trove of useful tips for self-construction

For this, the chimney is connected to numerous ducts in the furnace structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then during the operation of the heater, good draft should be created inside the channels, which will contribute to the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the fact that the heat generated by it will literally fly out of the furnace "into the pipe".

In a word, everything needs a "golden mean".

Scheme of the correct ratio of the height of the chimney, depending on the location on the roof (Figure 6):
If the chimney exits through the roof covering at a distance L1 not exceeding 1500 mm from the ridge (when measured horizontally), then its upper end edge must be raised above the ridge by at least 500 mm.
The chimney passing through the roof at a distance of 1500 to 3000 mm from the ridge (L2 in the diagram) must be at least at the level of the ridge.

The chimney, installed from the ridge more than 3000 mm (L3), should be located on a conditional line drawn through the ridge point at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizontal with its upper edge.

In any of the above cases, regardless of the distance to the ridge, the height of the pipe above roofing cannot be less than 500 mm. This fully applies to all flat roofs.

At the end of the topic of chimney parameters - an important remark. Self-calculation is great, but the role of a properly designed and folded chimney is so great (both for heating efficiency and for ensuring safety) that the best option there will always be professional design.

Amateur performance in such important matters is a very risky business.

A brick chimney is a classic solution that has been used in everyday life for a long time and does not lose its popularity, despite the fact that more and more modern solutions are being introduced today.

This structure is being erected at the stage of building the object and can have a different configuration.

1. Features of brick chimneys
2. Types of bricks used for the chimney
3. Pros and cons of brick construction
4. Preparation for work
5. Step-by-step description of work
6. Features and nuances of masonry

A little about chimneys made of bricks

The heating system and the outflow of combustion products in the house must be organized without fail.

For this purpose, in particular, a brick chimney is used, through which the exhaust air is removed during the operation of the heating devices. Usually, a discharge structure made of such material is used for single heating and heating devices.

According to the configuration, the brick chimney can be square or round.

But the second option will cost more due to the complexity of the masonry. The outlet structure is being erected in parallel with the construction of the walls of the building. Today it is allowed to build a chimney with a side length of at least 140 mm, and if the configuration is round, then the diameter should be 140 mm. In the old days, the allowable limit was 150 mm.

We watch the video, a little about installation works brick chimney:

The thickness of the walls is also regulated by certain norms.

It is not recommended to break the integrity of the structure with holes for cable and so on. The brick chimney must be solid, and in addition to this, the inner surface of the pipe must be as smooth as possible, without brick protrusions and cement flows along the seams.

Type of bricks for chimney and their features

Gas heating determines the type of material used in the construction of the outlet structure.

The difference between them lies in the value of the withstand temperature.

So, in the first case it comes about 800 degrees, and in the second - about 1,000 degrees.

All other options, for example, lightweight, porous or hollow material, are prohibited. Unlike the walls of the house, brick chimneys of different types cannot be plastered from the inside.

The erection of various parts of the structure is marked by the application cement mortar, excellent in composition.

For that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof, a cement-sand working mixture is used.

Brick chimney - what you need to know

For masonry below the level of the roof, cement-lime or lime mortar should be used.

If we compare different types of brick chimneys with other structures, for example, with a sandwich chimney, then in this case a single-wall solution is used. "Sandwich" is a double-walled version, that is, it is assumed that the chimney consists of two pipes: a larger and a smaller diameter.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick construction

Brick chimneys of different types have acquired a high degree of popularity due to a number of features, which will be discussed below:

• Increased resistance to high temperatures, as already mentioned, fireclay bricks withstand a limit of up to 1,000 degrees, while the products of combustion from the stove and fireplace reach the limit of 750 degrees;
• The increased degree of thermal conductivity ensures a high efficiency of heating equipment, since brick chimneys of different types do not contribute to a rapid outflow of heat;
• The cost of construction from this material is low;
• Aesthetic value is equally important, especially in cases where a building is being erected in a certain style.

But in addition to the advantages, the brick square chimney has a number of significant disadvantages:

• The corners of the structure contribute to the formation of vortex flows, which in turn represent a factor of counteraction to the outflow of combustion products;
• The walls of the outlet structure are not always perfectly smooth, which contributes to the settling of soot on the rough surface, and this eventually leads to a decrease in the working space, as a result of which traction worsens;
• Regular exposure to aggressive environments and temperature changes, which contributes to the formation of condensation, leads to the fact that chimneys for red brick stoves gradually collapse.

Taking into account all of the above, and also taking into account the features of other types of outlet structures, the user decides for himself which of the options is preferable.

But still, the most common today is the brickwork of the chimney.

Preparation for work

The beginning of any type of construction work is the preparation of a project. In order for the outlet structure to function effectively, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:

1. The dimensions of the pipe, namely its height and diameter, are determined by the characteristics of the heating equipment. But a brick multi-format chimney pipe cannot be less than 5 m.

   The relationship between these parameters and the traction force is obvious, since the larger the pipe section with insufficiently powerful heating equipment, the weaker the air outflow will be. And if the diameter of the pipe is too small, then even if there is sufficient height, chimneys for red brick stoves will "smoke".

2. The construction of a discharge structure in rooms that are well heated is carried out without pipe insulation.

   But in the area adjacent to the ceiling (up to 60 cm in length), a "sandwich" structure is mounted.

3. The construction of a brick chimney implies the need to provide free access for maintenance. For this, the butt seams of the structure are located on different levels with a ceiling. Otherwise, if difficulties arise in the operation of the system, it will be very problematic to get to the desired section of the pipe.

We watch the video, the beginning of the pipe:

It is important to have a good idea of ​​what elements the construction of a brick chimney is made of.

So, the main components of the structure:

• Sliding pipe - is led from the furnace itself;
• Fluff - this is the name of the brickwork of the chimney pipe, which is made with a broadening of up to 300 mm, but at the same time the original inner diameter of the pipe is preserved;
• Riser - rises in the attic and runs to the very roof;
• Otter - laying of the chimney pipe, which is carried out with a broadening of up to 100 mm and is an obstacle to the penetration of precipitation into the room;
• Neck - is built on the principle of a riser and is erected immediately after the otter;
• The head is the last section with a broadening that crowns the pipe.

Description of work

It has already been said above about which brick a multi-format chimney is laid from.

Having dealt with the stages of work, you can proceed to the beginning of the masonry:

1. An overhead pipe is under construction. The laying is carried out by means of the bandaging method. At this stage, you should stop before reaching about 6 brick rows to the overlap.
2. A do-it-yourself red brick chimney is further built with a widening, which is called fluff.

   Recommended dimensions of this element: 140X270 mm along the inner perimeter of the pipe, and outside the values ​​590X450 mm are selected. Construction is carried out using plates to get the desired result. The next row has parameters: 510X650 mm, while plates with a thickness of 60 mm are also used. The result is a row with dimensions of 570X710 mm. When the broadening is ready, another row of the same dimensions is erected, taking into account the dressing.

3. A brick multi-format chimney for a metal furnace is built further along the dimensions of the overhead pipe, but above the fluff.

   This part is called the riser. At this stage, you must first prepare the outlet for the pipe in the roof.

4. Chimneys for red brick stoves are built after the riser is removed from the roof no higher than 2 rows. Then the laying of the otter begins. This is another widening. In height, this section is equal to nine rows, each of which is wider than the previous one by about half a brick. Brick plates are still installed inside the widening. As you can see, it is possible to build a brick multi-format chimney for a metal stove and other heating equipment on your own, but the main difficulty is precisely these areas with widening.
5. When thinking about how to build a red brick chimney with the highest quality, one should take into account the need to close the hole formed between the roof and the pipe.

   This is done by increasing the width of the brick rows.

6. When choosing which brick is suitable for a chimney, you need to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue. Since during the construction of the neck, it is desirable that its quality and color harmoniously fit into the overall picture of the house.

   The head is built according to the fluffing principle.

Masonry features

In addition to which brick to choose for the chimney, you should also pay attention to the thickness of the joints. The thinner they are, the more durable the structure can be obtained as a result. If it was not possible to give a beautiful shape to the broadenings, you can correct the flaws with a concrete mixture.

We look detailed video, stages of work:

Plugging a brick multi-format chimney is not a prerequisite.

But such a measure allows a completely sealed pipe to be obtained, which will increase the reliability and efficiency of the structure. Plugging implies the installation of a stainless steel pipe inside the brick walls of the chimney. This option is only possible on straight sections.

Thus, in addition to the main stages of work, there are a number of nuances, which you also need to find out about in advance, so that the chimney design turns out to be flawless and lasts as long as possible.

Most of the private houses used for permanent residence, equipped with all sorts of heating devices. Boilers, stoves and fireplaces, regardless of the type of fuel used, need to be equipped with smoke exhaust ducts through which the residual combustion products are discharged into the atmosphere. A brick chimney is considered a classic of stove construction and, despite the abundance of analogues from cheaper and more affordable materials, it remains the most popular way to get rid of smoke.

Brick chimney

Design

At first glance, it seems that a brick chimney for a heating boiler or fireplace is just a vertically folded pipe. This impression is misleading, because in order for the smoke exhaust system to work correctly, it is necessary to give the pipe a certain shape and length. The brick chimney device consists of the following parts:

• Nozzle pipe... This term denotes a section of the chimney connected to the firebox of a boiler or fireplace. It starts from the wall of the heater and ends 5-6 rows before interfloor overlap... Masonry masonry is carried out with the obligatory observance of the dressing of the seams between the bricks.
• Fluff... The fluff is called the broadening of the chimney, starting 5-6 rows before the overlap and ending after it has passed. The laying of the fluff is carried out with the insertion of brick plates, which increase the outer perimeter of the pipe by 250-400 mm.
• Riser... The term "riser" refers to the vertical section of the chimney that runs through the attic to the roof of the house. The laying of the riser is even with a spoon, cross or chain dressing of the seams.
• Otter... An otter is another widening of a brick chimney, starting immediately after being brought to the roof. This part of the pipe is 100 mm wider than the riser on each side, which serves as a reliable protection against moisture penetration into the gap between the chimney and the roof.
• Neck... The flat section of the pipe, starting after the otter and corresponding in size to the riser, is called a neck.
• Head... The brick chimney ends with two rows of widened masonry. This part of the pipe is called the head. It is put on to protect it from water and debris getting inside the smoke exhaust channel.

Important! To design an effective brick chimney with your own hands, you need to follow three main rules: observe the same size of the smoke exhaust duct along its entire length, choose a cross-section in accordance with the volume of the boiler or furnace furnace, avoid turns and internal corners.

Material selection

When constructing a chimney, you need to take care of the choice of high-quality and suitable material in terms of performance. Professional stove makers recommend solid red bricks.

The width of one brick is 125 mm, taking into account the centimeter seams between it, with the help of this material a brick chimney is laid out 140x140 mm, 14x270 mm or 270x270 mm. When examining a brick when buying, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Note! Brick is a heat-resistant material that can withstand temperatures of 400-500 degrees, to which the smoke passing inside is heated. To prevent the seams from becoming weak point chimney, use a clay-based solution or special dry mixtures recommended by manufacturers for the construction of stoves. The width of the seams is considered important criterion the quality of the masonry, the thinner they are, the better.

Installation sequence

To lay out a brick chimney with your own hands requires special knowledge and skills, therefore, most often the construction of a chimney, like a fireplace or stove, is performed by a professional stove-maker.

Experienced craftsmen create complex, functional snake-shaped structures for more efficient heating, equip air intake ducts and windows. Brick chimney masonry simplest design is performed as follows:

Important! In the process of making the fluff, otter and making the head, you have to cut the brick to get the required size. To ensure the smoothness of the inner surface of the flue duct, the cutting must be done neatly and evenly. Experienced kiln craftsmen split bricks up to the right size however, it is easier and faster to use a cut-off sander.

Installation errors

Miscalculations made during the construction of a brick chimney by a non-professional craftsman lead to financial losses, fires and an increased risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

The difficulty is that after completion of the design flaws it is impossible to correct, most often the only way out is complete disassembly and reconstruction of the pipe. The masters consider common problems in the work of smoke removal:

Brick smoke exhaust ducts will last for centuries, if you do not save on high-quality material and follow the technology. To avoid problems with the operation of the heater, order a chimney project from an experienced craftsman.

Video instruction

Unlike a brick oven, the chimney device made of this material is less complicated, it does not have numerous internal channels. The pipe contains only one central stroke, but its surface must be smooth and level in order to provide the required thrust.

Collapse

It is quite possible to lay a brick chimney on your own, if you perform its calculations correctly, purchase high-quality material and understand the basics of masonry.

Types of brick chimneys

There are several types of them:

1. Nasadnaya. Structurally, it is carried out on top of the furnace and serves as its continuation. This type of chimney is installed on bath and conventional heating units.
2. Wall-mounted. Such a pipe is installed into the walls of a building or a captive internal space. If the wall chimney is installed next to the outer surfaces of the house, then it must be insulated so that condensation does not collect inside the channel due to the strong temperature drop. This impairs draft and promotes the quickest collection of condensate.
3. Root. Brick pipe for oven with side exit, it is installed next to heating structure... It can be used simultaneously for several ovens.

Brick chimney design

The chimney in any house consists of several parts, each of them has its own purpose.

A typical and frequently used chimney consists of the following segments:

• Neck extending from the oven surface to cutting (fluffing). A valve is installed on it, with the help of which the fuel combustion rate and traction force are regulated.
• Fluff. It is performed in front of each segment of the overlap, protects against high temperatures. Its walls are made thicker than in other parts of the chimney, they must be at least 40 cm.
• Riser. This part of the pipe connects the attic and the roof.
• Otter. Her duties include protecting the chimney from the ingress of water, snow and dust into the pipe riser. The section of the pipe is located on the roof, it is characterized by thick walls, which protect the roof sheathing from the effects of combustible materials.
• The neck of the pipe. It starts over the otter, it is laid in the same way as a riser.
• The head of the pipe is an extension above the neck. A cap or umbrella is installed above it to protect the chimney from precipitation.

Elements of a brick pipe (chimney)

Parameter calculations

The size of the chimney for a brick stove must remain unchanged along its entire length, its optimal value is chosen depending on the dimensions of the heating device.

Sectional size

Suitable parameters of the device depend on the combustion chamber and the power of the furnace. The inner walls must be made smooth without mortar flows and protrusions, then they will stay clean longer.

Most often, brick chimneys of square and rectangular cross-section are used, their laying is performed in 4, 5 or 6 bricks, when calculating the cross-section, one side of the structure is multiplied by the second. Standard sizes consider: 12.5 × 25 cm. The calculation is carried out along the inner channel of the chimney. The specified parameters relate to laying in 4 bricks, the cross-sectional area is 156.25 cm 2.

When calculating a cross-section of five bricks, a value equal to 312.5 cm 2 is obtained, and with six - 625 cm 2.

When installing a brick chimney on a metal stove, you need to attach its square section to the round outlet of the stove. So for a cross-section of a chimney with an area of ​​156.25 cm 2 is suitable round tube with a diameter of 130 mm, its area is 133 cm 2, the next parameter of 150 mm is of greater importance than the declared one.

When calculating round section the required radius is taken into account, the area is calculated according to the school formula:

S = π × R 2, where the number π = 3.14

Knowing the pipe diameter, you can easily determine the required parameter.

Calculation depending on power

The inner channel depends on the optimal ratio of the pipe dimensions and the power of the heating device. Among the guidelines for choosing a suitable section, the size of the opening provided for the blower door is distinguished. The pipe size must be smaller than the door opening.

If, in the calculation, the furnace productivity is taken into account, then it is possible to select a cross-section from the tabular data, but they do not take into account the thickness of the seams, they lie in the range from 6 to 10 mm.

Chimney height

When calculating this parameter, you need to pay attention to the following features:

• in the case of using a highly flammable variety as a roofing material, it is necessary that the chimney rise above the roof by at least 1.5 meters;
• the difference in height between the upper point of the head and the grate should not be less than 5 meters;
• if there is a high structure near the house, then the pipe should be 0.5 meters higher than its extreme point;
• on roofs with a non-combustible coating, the minimum distance to the top of the pipe should be 0.5 meters.

When calculating the height of the chimney, the size of the furnace and the cross section of the chimney are taken into account. So if total area the furnace window is 0.35 m 2, and the channel cross-section area is 0.04 m 2, then a height of 7 meters is suitable for these parameters. To make a calculation with other parameters, you need to set this dependence and select the height.

The height of the chimney affects the draft, therefore this dimension chimney from a brick should not be less than 5 meters, otherwise turbulence may begin and all the soot will go inside the house.

How to correctly position the pipe from the roof ridge is shown in the photo below:

How to choose the “right” brick?

For laying the chimney, a full-bodied fireclay (refractory) brick is used, its grade should be above 200. Externally, the selected material should come with even edges and have a rectangular cross-section. Sizes can be different, but it is better to use the following: 25 × 12 × 6.5 cm.

Masonry mortar

It contains clay, sand, water and cement. The liquid is taken in pure form, without various inclusions, that is, it cannot be taken from reservoirs and artificial ponds... The clay used should also be as clean as possible, free of foreign inclusions.

Differences in solutions depending on the masonry site

For each part of the chimney, it is advisable to use a specific cement mixture:

• the pipe under the roof is erected with cement-lime or lime mortar;
• for the part of the chimney above the roof, a cement-sand composition is used.

If you make a brick chimney for a metal stove with your own hands, then you should know that the thickness of the mortar layer will depend on the fraction of sand, the finer it is, the more accurate the seams will be.

Mix making

The mixture is prepared from sifted river sand and pure clay, mined from the depths of the earth at least 1.5 meters. It also needs to be sieved, and the mesh of the sieve should not exceed 5 mm. Before kneading, the clay must be soaked in water and kept for 48 hours.

After this preparation, the clay is mixed with sand in a ratio of 2 to 1, and then all this is poured with water, maintaining a ratio of 1 to 4. In order for the batch to be infused, it must be left for 12 hours, and then moved until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

The cement-lime composition is prepared in almost the same way, only lime is added to it, which is sieved through a sieve with 3 mm cells.

Chimney masonry

Even if the person has never encountered brickwork before, if there is the right tools and step by step guide, he can build a chimney. But if the house is two-story or it has a complex pitched roof, then it is better to entrust such a thing to professionals.

Required tools

To build a chimney of any complexity, you will need the following tools on the list:

• roulette;
• building level;
• a pick hammer and its analog with a rubber tip;
• Bulgarian;
• buckets or containers for solution;
• trowel;
• sieve;
• drill with a nozzle for stirring the solution.

Masonry technology

The arrangement of the chimney is thought out at the design stage of the heating device, the ideal option is when it is also brick, but an iron stove with a brick pipe is also often found and its pipe will be performed in a similar way.

The solution should be placed no thicker than 1 cm in order to avoid its subsequent cracking when hot air flows through the chimney.

Do-it-yourself brick laying of a brick chimney looks like this:

Advantages and disadvantages

Brick chimneys have the following advantages:

• relative cheapness, in comparison with modern materials used for it (now popular "sandwich" panels);
• long service life, can be up to 30 years;
• brick chimney as an architectural element is ideally combined with many roofing materials.

But due to the fact that the brick still belongs to the construction "old-timers", it has many disadvantages in comparison with its modern counterparts:

• the significant weight of the brick structure requires the creation of a reliable base;
• the construction of the pipe takes longer than when using a "sandwich";
• for a chimney, the ideal section is round, and the brick is rectangular in shape, square structures are better made from it;
• the inner part of the pipe remains rough even after plastering, due to which it quickly becomes covered with soot, which impairs traction.

Output

Everyone can assess their own strengths, and if a person decides to independently build a brick chimney in a house or in a country house, then he should realize that not only the heating of the entire room, but also his safety will depend on this. After all, if it is wrong to install the pipe or to make its inner part with protrusions, then all the fumes from the burnt fuel will remain in the house.

Building a high-quality brick chimney with your own hands is not the same as fixing a metal pipe. Every seam is important here, tightness and strict compliance with fire safety rules. The main task of any chimney is to remove fuel combustion products from the building. And the traction that is created inside the chimney helps this process - it is she who removes hot vapors and provides air to the combustion chamber in order to maintain the combustion process. The main advantages of a brick chimney are that it has excellent draft in any weather, it looks wonderful, and it serves much longer than modern metal pipes and sandwiches. So, let's figure out how to build a brick chimney in compliance with absolutely all the rules.

The main components of a brick chimney

So what exactly is a brick chimney? At the very beginning, there is an overhead pipe, which is installed directly on the furnace. There is a latch in it. The overhead pipe is laid out with a special binding of bricks.

Five to six rows before the interfloor overlap, the overlapping part ends, and the fluff neck begins. The fluff is the subsequent widening of the brick chimney, but its cross-section remains the same as throughout the pipe. In fact, only the outer part of the fluff broadens - by 25-40 cm.

The part of the brick chimney that goes into the attic is a riser, an even part that will go all the way to the roof.

The next cutting is an otter, a special expansion on four sides, not less than 10 cm.It is thanks to him that atmospheric precipitation does not fall into the cracks between the roof and the chimney in attic baths.

But after the otter, a neck is already placed - the same size as the chimney. Its laying ends with the last expansion, which forms the head of the chimney. You can already put a metal cap or a deflector on it to keep the chimney itself from snow, rain and wind-blown debris. It's good for traction too.

We put the chimney - brick by brick

How exactly is the construction and casing of a brick chimney, you can consider at step by step photo and videos are also at your disposal. And we will give you passing good advice that will help you achieve good quality work at all stages.

Stage I. Preparatory work

First of all, get familiar with the chimney construction drawings. Take for this the usual standard chimney scheme, do not risk it. If you have an ordinary wood-burning stove, you need a layout of a completely brick chimney, and if the stove is gas, then one in which there will be additional metal pipe special alloy.

Before starting to lay a brick chimney, a rectangular foundation is built for it. It can be built from solid brick or concrete with metal reinforcement, the main thing is that it is at least 30 cm in height. And the foundation should be 15 cm wider in width than the chimney itself.

Stage II. Chimney masonry

You can carefully consider how a standard brick chimney is laid, you can use the detailed diagram below:

Whatever the height of your bath, you will need to build a chimney no less than 5 meters high - otherwise there will be no draft. It is necessary to lay out such a chimney with a special refractory or red solid brick. As a binder, you can use a cement-lime or cement-sand mortar, and where the temperature is especially high, you will need a special mixture for laying the furnace.

Experienced stove-makers will chip the desired piece from a brick with one blow to that - but if you don't have this skill, use a regular cut-off grinder and marker to mark. These are the tools that will allow you to make precise chimney plates in the butcher and otter area.

Try to make the seams as thin as possible - then the chimney will be strong. The optimum thickness of the joints for a brick chimney is 15 mm. For the formation of cutting and otters, use metal rods for convenience - mount them directly in brickwork, but so that the fittings do not cross the smoke channel itself. Keep in mind that both the width and the height of your chimney will directly depend on how thick you will make the joints in the masonry - they must be the same! In general, the thickness of the walls of a brick chimney is about 10 cm, which really provides reliable fire safety.

Attention! During the construction of a brick chimney, be sure to leave special holes for cleaning it. The brick walls of the chimney must be perfectly flat and all corners must be straight.

Finish the inner surface of the chimney with plaster for smoothness. What for? The fact is that the rougher the chimney in the nutria, the more soot will settle on its walls. And it worsens cravings and one day it can simply catch fire, which is completely unsafe. Only apply the plaster itself correctly. Many experienced stove-makers also believe that it is necessary to whitewash a brick chimney from the outside - so it will be immediately visible where soot seeps through a completely invisible gap.

Stage III. Fastening and insulation

If you build such a chimney directly against the wall, then fix it to it for reliability with metal anchors every 30 cm. Where the chimney will connect to the ceiling and roof, lay asbestos fabric or fiberglass. Although the brick heats up slowly, the risk of something catching fire should be minimized. Another rule: a brick chimney should rise at least half a meter above the roof ridge - this is important.

That outer part of the chimney, which is higher, needs to be insulated and trimmed facing brick or with a special roofing finish. Like this. If you follow all the technologies when building a brick chimney in your bath, it will turn out to be much safer, stronger and more reliable than the most modern modular systems at an exorbitant price.

If you want to enjoy the warmth in your home and at the same time protect it from fire, try building a classic brick chimney, such a structure is relatively easy to build with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology of its construction.

In any private dwelling where one or another autonomous heating system functions, a structure must be installed that removes the products of fuel combustion. Now there are a lot of the latest solutions that allow you to organize such a system. They involve the use of the most modern materials and technology.

At the same time, brick chimneys, proven over centuries of stable operation, do not give up their positions. They, like many decades ago, are being built by the owners of small country houses, and the owners of luxury cottages. Brick chimneys have many operational advantages:

• The availability of material for construction and the relatively low cost of installation work.
• High resistance to high temperatures. Chimneys made of high-quality bricks can withstand heating up to 900–1000 ° С.
• Excellent design appearance. This is of great importance for residential buildings that are built in any original style.
• Increased thermal conductivity. Due to this, the heating equipment installed in the house is characterized by a high efficiency rate. Brick chimneys trap heat inside the dwelling, counteracting its rapid outflow.

Brick chimney

The designs under consideration for the removal of combustion products also have disadvantages. Under the influence of temperature jumps and due to the influence of aggressive media, the brick begins to collapse. There is no particular problem with this. A brick chimney can always be repaired, restoring its performance. The second minus is that the walls of the described structures from the inside are quite difficult to make perfectly smooth. Because of this, soot collects on them, which causes a deterioration in the draft of the chimney.

This phenomenon is due to a decrease in the space (working) inside the structure. This problem is also solvable. You just need to regularly clean the brick chimney from soot. And then there will be no difficulties (really insoluble) with its operation.

In shape, a brick structure can be round or square. There is no fundamental difference in the operation of such chimneys. But craftsmen usually equip square structures to drain soot. They are much easier and faster to build than round structures.

Also chimneys made of bricks are usually subdivided into: mounted and root. The packaged structure is an integral element (furnace), its continuation, without which the unit cannot be operated. But chimneys of the root type are installed as stand-alone structures. They are placed next to the stove and connect the soot pipe to the heating unit by means of a pipe. Chimneys of the root type should be placed on a base separate from the stove and house. This, of course, complicates the installation work.

Back-mounted structure made of bricks

Most often, such structures are used to remove smoke from heating units made of brick or cast iron.

An important nuance. It is allowed to connect not one furnace to the main structure, but several at once. Moreover, it can be, and a unit that runs on gas. For the construction of the chimneys of interest to us, hollow, porous and lightweight bricks cannot be used. Use only fireclay or solid red blocks that can withstand high temperatures.

The shell-on structure consists of several zones. For an ordinary person, their names may not sound very common. Next, we present the main parts of brick smoke exhaust structures and describe their features:

1. The lower part of the chimney - the overhead pipe - is mounted directly on the heating unit. When installing bricks, they are laid with a special dressing.
2. After the overhead pipe, there is a fluffing (otherwise - cutting). This part is understood as the expansion of the chimney, which they begin to lay out for 5-6 brick rows from the overlap between the floors of the house. There is one subtlety here. Only the outer part of the fluff is made wider by 25–40 cm. But its inner diameter is similar to the section of the entire chimney. The fluff protects the floors from high temperatures. It, in fact, performs the function of thermal insulation. That is why its walls are made so thick.
3. There is a neck in the fluff. It is designed to install a special valve, which makes it possible to change the furnace draft by adjusting the intensity of fuel combustion.
4. A pillar of bricks with a smoke exhaust duct laid inside it is called a riser. Structurally, it is placed before the fluff and after it - in attic floor... The riser is laid up to the very roof of the building.
5. An otter is mounted above the roof - expansion (about 10 cm on each side) special kind... It protects the attic from rainfall.
6. There is another neck above the otter. Its parameters are similar to those of the chimney.

The main parts of a brick smoke exhaust structure

The end of the smoke-removing structure is the head. It consists of an otter platform and a cap protruding above the neck. An umbrella, deflector or cap is installed on the head (or rather, on its cap), which prevent debris carried by the wind and atmospheric precipitation from entering the pipe. The main chimneys have a similar design. But, as mentioned, several heating units can be connected to them. Therefore, the structure will have several sections and risers.

First you need to decide on the scheme according to which you will mount the chimney. It can be ordered from specialists or found ready plan on the Internet at specialized sites. The scheme you like must be carefully studied. After that, you can start construction work.

Laying is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. First of all, an overhead pipe should be erected. Its lower part is installed on a layer of mortar consisting of clay and dry clean construction sand... The laying of the pipe is carried out by the method of bandaging (each row is shifted sideways by half of the brick to ensure maximum adhesion). Before reaching the overlap of 5-6 lines, you stop mounting the overhead pipe.
2. The laying of the fluff is in progress. The standard size of the broadening along the outer perimeter of the chimney is 59x45 cm, along the inner - 14x27 cm. The expansion of the pipe is achieved by displacing the laid bricks along the edges of each row by about 4 cm. Important! When the laying of the fluff is over, be sure to overlay the expansion made with 10 mm asbestos in sheets or any other non-combustible material.
3. Now we are making an otter. This stage requires home master special accuracy and care. Each row of the otter should protrude to the outside by 1/3 and form a kind of step. The masonry of the first line is similar in size to the last row of the earlier expansion. Then lay out the second step and all the following.

Masonry brick smoke exhaust pipe

The next step is the installation of the riser. Its laying is done in the attic. The riser must be built close to the roof structure of the house. It passes through the roof and emerges 50–80 cm above the ridge of the building. The masonry ends with the arrangement of the chimney neck. At its end, a head is placed, on which a protective device (cap, umbrella) is put on.

You can study all the stages of laying a brick chimney in more detail in the video that we attach to this section. Review it carefully and you are guaranteed to be able to make a reliable chimney do it yourself.

Finally, I want to give a few useful tips for novice home craftsmen who have no real experience in building chimneys. Consider the following:

1. It is advisable to make the seams of the masonry thin (no more than 1.5 cm). In this case, the smoke-evacuating structure will serve you for many decades.
2. It is convenient to trim bricks with a manual cut-off grinder.
3. When building otters and cutting, you can mount metal rods in the brickwork to increase the reliability of the structure. At the same time, do not allow the reinforcement elements to block the smoke channel.
4. All corners of the chimney must be straight, and the walls must be perfectly even. When laying out each element of the structure, use a plumb line and a building level.
5. To increase the reliability and stability of the chimney structure, attach it to the wall every 0.3 m with steel anchors (of course, if the chimney is located directly at the wall surface).

Installation of metal rods in the brickwork of the chimney

Experienced experts also advise laying fiberglass or asbestos material in the area where the chimney connects to the roof and ceiling. This will almost completely eliminate the risk of fire.